Peugeot 405 Haynes (petrol). Manual - part 11

Connecting rods

Maximum weight difference between any 
two piston/connecting rod assemblies:

1360 cc engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5.0 g

1580 cc, 1761 cc and 1905 cc engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

13.0 g

1998 cc engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7.0 g

Crankshaft

Endfloat:

8-valve engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.07 to 0.32 mm

16-valve engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.07 to 0.27 mm

Main bearing journal diameter:

1360 cc engines:

Standard  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

49.965 to 49.981 mm

Undersize  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

49.665 to 49.681 mm

1580 cc, 1905 cc and 1998 cc engines:

Standard  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

59.981 to 60.000 mm

Undersize  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

59.681 to 59.700 mm

1761 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Not available

Big-end bearing journal diameter:

1360 cc engines:

Standard  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

44.975 to 45.000 mm

Undersize  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

44.675 to 44.700 mm

1580 cc, 1905 cc and 1998 cc engines:

Standard  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

49.984 to 50.000 mm

Undersize  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

49.684 to 49.700 mm

1761 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Not available

Maximum bearing journal out-of-round (all models)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.007 mm

Main bearing running clearance:

1360 cc models*:

Pre-February 1992 models  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.023 to 0.083 mm

February 1992-on models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.023 to 0.048 mm

1580 cc, 1761 cc and 
1905 cc engines**  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.025 to 0.050 mm

1998 cc engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.038 to 0.069 mm

Big-end bearing running clearance - all models**  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.025 to 0.050 mm

*On 1360 cc models, the main bearing shells were modified in February 1992, resulting in a reduction in the specified running clearance - 
see text for further information.

**These are suggested figures, typical for this type of engine - no exact values are stated by Peugeot.

Piston rings

Note: The following are suggested figures - no exact values are stated by Peugeot.
End gaps:

Top compression ring:

1360 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.3 to 0.5 mm

1580 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.4 to 0.6 mm

1905 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.2 to 0.4 mm

1761 cc and 1998 cc engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.3 to 0.5 mm

Second compression ring:

1360 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.3 to 0.5 mm

1580 cc and 1905 cc engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.15 to 0.35 mm

1761 cc and 1998 cc engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.3 to 0.5 mm

Oil control ring:

All models  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.3 to 0.5 mm

Torque wrench settings

TU series engine

Refer to Chapter 2A Specifications

XU series engine

Refer to Chapter 2B Specifications

Engine removal and overhaul  2C•3

2C

1

General information

Included in this Part of Chapter 2 are details

of removing the engine/transmission from the
car and general overhaul procedures for the
cylinder head, cylinder block/crankcase and
all other engine internal components.

The information given ranges from advice

concerning preparation for an overhaul and
the purchase of replacement parts, to detailed
step-by-step procedures covering removal,
inspection, renovation and refitting of engine
internal components.

After Section 6, all instructions are based

on the assumption that the engine has been
removed from the car. For information
concerning in-car engine repair, as well as the
removal and refitting of those external
components necessary for full overhaul, refer
to Part A or B of this Chapter (as applicable)
and to Section 6. Ignore any preliminary
dismantling operations described in Part A or
B that are no longer relevant once the engine
has been removed from the car.

Apart from torque wrench settings, which

are given at the beginning of Part A or B (as
applicable), all specifications relating to
engine overhaul are at the beginning of this
Part of Chapter 2.

2

Engine overhaul - 
general information

1 It is not always easy to determine when, or
if, an engine should be completely
overhauled, as a number of factors must be
considered.
2 High mileage is not necessarily an
indication that an overhaul is needed, while
low mileage does not preclude the need for an
overhaul. Frequency of servicing is probably
the most important consideration. An engine
which has had regular and frequent oil and
filter changes, as well as other required
maintenance, should give many thousands of
miles of reliable service. Conversely, a
neglected engine may require an overhaul
very early in its life.
3 Excessive oil consumption is an indication
that piston rings, valve seals and/or valve
guides are in need of attention. Make sure
that oil leaks are not responsible before
deciding that the rings and/or guides are
worn. Perform a compression test, as
described in Part A of this Chapter, to
determine the likely cause of the problem.
4 Check the oil pressure with a gauge fitted in
place of the oil pressure switch, and compare
it with that specified. If it is extremely low, the
main and big-end bearings, and/or the oil
pump, are probably worn out.
5 Loss of power, rough running, knocking or
metallic engine noises, excessive valve gear

noise, and high fuel consumption may also
point to the need for an overhaul, especially if
they are all present at the same time. If a
complete service does not remedy the
situation, major mechanical work is the only
solution.
6 An engine overhaul involves restoring all
internal parts to the specification of a new
engine. During an overhaul, the cylinder liners
(where applicable), the pistons and the piston
rings are renewed. New main and big-end
bearings are generally fitted; if necessary, the
crankshaft may be renewed, to restore the
journals. The valves are also serviced as well,
since they are usually in less-than-perfect
condition at this point. While the engine is
being overhauled, other components, such as
the distributor, starter and alternator, can be
overhauled as well. The end result should be
an as-new engine that will give many trouble-
free miles.

Note: Critical cooling system components
such as the hoses, thermostat and water
pump should be renewed when an engine is
overhauled. The radiator should be checked
carefully, to ensure that it is not clogged or
leaking. Also, it is a good idea to renew the oil
pump whenever the engine is overhauled.

7 Before beginning the engine overhaul, read
through the entire procedure, to familiarise
yourself with the scope and requirements of
the job. Overhauling an engine is not difficult if
you follow all of the instructions carefully,
have the necessary tools and equipment, and
pay close attention to all specifications. It can,
however, be time-consuming. Plan on the car
being off the road for a minimum of two
weeks, especially if parts must be taken to an
engineering works for repair or reconditioning.
Check on the availability of parts and make
sure that any necessary special tools and
equipment are obtained in advance. Most
work can be done with typical hand tools,
although a number of precision measuring
tools are required for inspecting parts to
determine if they must be renewed. Often the
engineering works will handle the inspection
of parts and offer advice concerning recondi-
tioning and renewal.

Note: Always wait until the engine has been
completely dismantled, and until all
components (especially the cylinder
block/crankcase and the crankshaft) have
been inspected, before deciding what service
and repair operations must be performed by
an engineering works. The condition of these
components will be the major factor to
consider when determining whether to
overhaul the original engine, or to buy a
reconditioned unit. Do not, therefore,
purchase parts or have overhaul work done on
other components until they have been
thoroughly inspected. As a general rule, time
is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it does
not pay to fit worn or sub-standard parts.

8 As a final note, to ensure maximum life and
minimum trouble from a reconditioned engine,
everything must be assembled with care, in a
spotlessly-clean environment.

3

Engine/transmission
removal - methods and
precautions

1 If you have decided that the engine must be
removed for overhaul or major repair work,
several preliminary steps should be taken.
2 Locating a suitable place to work is
extremely important. Adequate work space,
along with storage space for the car, will be
needed. If a workshop or garage is not
available, at the very least, a flat, level, clean
work surface is required.
3 Cleaning the engine compartment and
engine/transmission before beginning the
removal procedure will help keep tools clean
and organised.
4 An engine hoist or A-frame will also be
necessary. Ensure the equipment is rated in
excess of the combined weight of the engine
and transmission. Safety is of primary
importance, considering the potential hazards
in lifting the engine/transmission out of the car.
5 If this is the first time you have removed an
engine, an assistant should ideally be
available. Advice and aid from someone more
experienced would also be helpful. There are
many instances when one person cannot
simultaneously perform all of the operations
required when lifting the engine out of the car.
6 Plan the operation ahead of time. Before
starting work, arrange for the hire of or obtain
all of the tools and equipment you will need.
Some of the equipment necessary to perform
engine/transmission removal and installation
safely and with relative ease (in addition to an
engine hoist) is as follows: a heavy duty trolley
jack, complete sets of spanners and sockets
as described in the front of this manual,
wooden blocks, and plenty of rags and
cleaning solvent for mopping up spilled oil,
coolant and fuel. If the hoist must be hired,
make sure that you arrange for it in advance,
and perform all of the operations possible
without it beforehand. This will save you
money and time.
7 Plan for the car to be out of use for quite a
while. An engineering works will be required
to perform some of the work which the do-it-
yourselfer cannot accomplish without special
equipment. These places often have a busy
schedule, so it would be a good idea to
consult them before removing the engine, in
order to accurately estimate the amount of
time required to rebuild or repair components
that may need work.
8 Always be extremely careful when removing
and refitting the engine/transmission. Serious
injury can result from careless actions. Plan
ahead and take your time, and a job of this
nature, although major, can be accomplished
successfully.

2C•4 Engine removal and overhaul

4

Engine and manual
transmission - removal,
separation and refitting

4

Note: Peugeot recommend that 8-valve XU
engines are removed by lowering from the
engine compartment, however in practise we
found that on models not fitted with air
conditioning, there is ample room to lift the
engine upwards. Lowering the engine would
involve raising the front of the vehicle onto
axle stands approximately 21 inches high and
also removing the engine subframe. On
models fitted with air conditioning the engine
may be lowered, or alternatively it can be lifted
after removing the condenser and front panel
(the refrigerant must first be evacuated by a
qualified engineer if this method is used).

Removal

Note: The engine can be removed from the
car only as a complete unit with the
transmission; the two are then separated for
overhaul.
1 Park the vehicle on firm, level ground.
Chock the rear wheels, then firmly apply the
handbrake. Jack up the front of the vehicle,
and securely support it on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove both
front roadwheels.
2 Set the bonnet in the upright position, and
remove the battery and tray as described in
Chapter 5A.
3 On 8-valve XU engines remove the front
cross panel with reference to Chapter 11 (see
note at the beginning of this Section).
4 Remove the complete air cleaner housing
and duct assembly, as described in the
relevant Part of Chapter 4 (see illustration).
5 If the engine is to be dismantled, working as
described in Chapter 1, first drain the oil and
remove the oil filter. Clean and refit the drain
plug, tightening it securely.
6 Drain the transmission oil as described in
Chapter 7A. Refit the drain and filler plugs,
and tighten them to their specified torque
settings.
7 Remove the alternator as described in
Chapter 5A.
8 Where applicable, remove the power
steering pump as described in Chapter 10.

9 On models with air conditioning, unbolt the
compressor, and position it clear of the
engine. Support the weight of the compressor
by tying it to the vehicle body, to prevent any
excess strain being placed on the compressor
lines whilst the engine is removed. Do not
disconnect the refrigerant lines from the
compressor (refer to the warnings given in
Chapter 3).
10 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1. Where necessary on 8-valve XU
engines, remove the radiator (see Chapter 3).
11 On carburettor models, carry out the
following operations, using the information
given in Chapter 4A:

a) Disconnect the fuel feed hose from the

anti-percolation chamber.

b) Disconnect the accelerator and choke

cables from the carburettor.

c) Disconnect the braking system servo

vacuum hose from the inlet manifold.

d) Remove the exhaust system front pipe.

12 On fuel injection models, carry out the
following operations, using the information
given in Chapter 4B or 4C (as applicable):

a) Depressurise the fuel system, and

disconnect the fuel feed and return hoses.

b) Disconnect the accelerator cable.
c) Disconnect the fuel system wiring

connectors.

d) Disconnect the purge valve and/or

braking system servo vacuum hoses from
the inlet manifold (as applicable).

e) Remove the exhaust system front pipe.

13 Referring to Chapter 3, release the
retaining clip and disconnect the heater matrix
hoses from their connection on the engine
compartment bulkhead.
14 Working as described in Chapter 6,
disconnect the clutch cable from the
transmission, and position it clear of the
working area (see illustration).
15 Trace the wiring harness back from the
engine to the wiring connector(s) in the engine
compartment. Release the locking ring(s) by
twisting them anti-clockwise and disconnect
the connectors. Also trace the harness lead(s)
back to the relay box, situated beside the
battery. Unclip the wiring connector plate
from the front of the relay box cover then
undo the retaining nut and remove the cover.
Lift up the engine harness lead cover then

undo the nut(s) and release the lead(s) from
the relay box. Check that all the relevant
connectors have been disconnected, and that
the wiring is released from any relevant clips
or ties, so that it is free to be removed with the
engine/transmission.
16 From underneath the vehicle, slacken and
remove the nuts and bolts securing the rear
mounting link to the mounting assembly and
subframe, and remove the link.
17 Remove both driveshafts as described in
Chapter 8.
18 Carry out the following operations, using
the information given in Chapter 7A:

a) Disconnect the gearchange selector

rod/link rods (as applicable) from the
transmission.

b) Disconnect the speedometer cable from

the speedometer drive.

c) Disconnect the wiring connector(s) from

the reversing light switch and
speedometer drive (as applicable).

19 Manoeuvre the engine hoist into position,
and attach it to the lifting brackets bolted onto
the cylinder head. Raise the hoist until it is
supporting the weight of the engine.
20 Remove the right-hand engine mounting
with reference to Chapter 2A. 

Note: On certain models, if the right-hand
engine mounting hydro-elastic unit is to be
renewed because of wear/perishing, a special
tool is needed to unscrew it from the wing
panel, and for refitting and tightening to the
specified torque (see illustration).

21 Slacken and remove the centre nut and
washer from the engine/transmission left-
hand mounting. Undo the two nuts and
washers securing the mounting to its bracket
and remove the mounting from the engine
compartment and recover the spacer (where
fitted). To improve clearance, (where possible)
undo the two retaining bolts and remove the
bracket from the body.
22 Make a final check that any components
which would prevent the removal of the
engine/transmission from the car have been
removed or disconnected. Ensure that
components such as the gearchange selector
rod are secured so that they cannot be
damaged on removal.

Engine removal and overhaul  2C•5

4.20  Special tool for removing and refitting

right-hand engine mounting 

hydro-elastic unit

4.14  Disconnecting the clutch cable

4.4  Inlet air duct connection to the front

crossmember

2C

23 Lift the engine/transmission out of the car,
ensuring that nothing is trapped or damaged.
Enlist the help of an assistant during this
procedure, as it will be necessary to tilt the
assembly slightly to clear the body panels. On
models equipped with anti-lock brakes, great
care must be taken to ensure that the anti-
lock braking system unit is not damaged
during the removal procedure.
24 Once the engine is high enough, lift it out
over the front of the body, and lower the unit
to the ground.

Separation

25 With the engine/transmission assembly
removed, support the assembly on suitable
blocks of wood, on a workbench (or alter-
natively, on a clean area of the workshop
floor).
26 Undo the retaining bolts, and remove the
flywheel lower cover plate (where fitted) from
the transmission.
27 On models with a “pull-type” clutch
release mechanism (see Chapter 6 for further
information), tap out the retaining pin or
unscrew the retaining bolt (as applicable), and
remove the clutch release lever from the top
of the release fork shaft. This is necessary to
allow the fork shaft to rotate freely, so that it
disengages from the release bearing as the
transmission is pulled away from the engine.
Make an alignment mark across the centre of
the clutch release fork shaft, using a scriber,
paint or similar, and mark its relative position
on the transmission housing (see Chapter 7A
for further information).
28 Slacken and remove the retaining bolts,
and remove the starter motor from the
transmission.
29 Ensure that both engine and transmission
are adequately supported, then slacken and
remove the remaining bolts securing the
transmission housing to the engine. Note the
correct fitted positions of each bolt (and the
relevant brackets) as they are removed, to use
as a reference on refitting.
30 Carefully withdraw the transmission from
the engine, ensuring that the weight of the
transmission is not allowed to hang on the
input shaft while it is engaged with the clutch
friction disc.
31 If they are loose, remove the locating
dowels from the engine or transmission, and
keep them in a safe place.
32 On models with a “pull-type” clutch, make
a second alignment mark on the transmission
housing, marking the relative position of the
release fork mark after removal. This should
indicate the angle at which the release fork is
positioned. The mark can then be used to
position the release fork prior to installation, to
ensure that the fork correctly engages with
the clutch release bearing as the transmission
is installed.

Refitting

33 If the engine and transmission have been
separated, perform the operations described

below in paragraphs 34 to 42. If not, proceed
as described from paragraph 43 onwards.
34 Apply a smear of high-melting-point
grease (Peugeot recommend the use of
Molykote BR2 plus - available from your
Peugeot dealer) to the splines of the
transmission input shaft. Do not apply too
much, otherwise there is a possibility of the
grease contaminating the clutch friction plate.
35 Ensure that the locating dowels are
correctly positioned in the engine or
transmission.
36 On models with a “pull-type” clutch,
before refitting, position the clutch release
bearing so that its arrow mark is pointing
upwards (bearing fork slots facing towards the
front of the engine), and align the release fork
shaft mark with the second mark made on the
transmission housing (release fork positioned
at approximately 60° to clutch housing face).
This will ensure that the release fork and
bearing will engage correctly as the
transmission is refitted to the engine.
37 Carefully offer the transmission to the
engine, until the locating dowels are engaged.
Ensure that the weight of the transmission is
not allowed to hang on the input shaft as it is
engaged with the clutch friction disc.
38 On models with a “pull-type” clutch, with
the transmission fully engaged with the
engine, check that the release fork and
bearing are correctly engaged. If the release
fork and bearing are correctly engaged, the
mark on the release fork should be aligned
with the original mark made on the
transmission housing (see Chapter 7A for
further information).
39 Refit the transmission housing-to-engine
bolts, ensuring that all the necessary brackets
are correctly positioned, and tighten them to
the specified torque setting.
40 Refit the starter motor, and securely
tighten its retaining bolts.
41 On models with a “pull-type” clutch
release mechanism, refit the clutch release
lever to the top of the release fork shaft,
securing it in position with its retaining pin or
bolt (as applicable).
42 Where necessary, refit the lower flywheel
cover plate to the transmission, and securely
tighten its retaining bolts.
43 Reconnect the hoist and lifting tackle to
the engine lifting brackets. With the aid of an
assistant, lift the assembly over the engine
compartment.
44 The assembly should be tilted as
necessary to clear the surrounding
components, as during removal; lower the
assembly into position in the engine
compartment, manipulating the hoist and
lifting tackle as necessary.
45 With the engine/transmission in position,
refit the right-hand engine/transmission
mounting bracket, tightening its retaining nuts
and bolts (as applicable) by hand only at this
stage.
46 Working on the left-hand mounting, refit
the mounting bracket (where removed) to the

body and tighten its retaining bolts to the
specified torque. Refit the mounting rubber
and refit the mounting retaining nuts and
washers and the centre nut and washer,
tightening them lightly only.
47 From underneath the vehicle, refit the rear
mounting link and install both its bolts.
48 Rock the engine to settle it on its
mountings then go around and tighten all the
mounting nuts and bolts to their specified
torque settings. Where necessary, once the
right-hand mounting bracket nuts have been
tightened, refit the rubber damper and curved
retaining plate, tightening its retaining bolts to
the specified torque. The hoist can then be
detached from the engine and removed.
49 The remainder of the refitting procedure is
a direct reversal of the removal sequence,
noting the following points:

a) Ensure that the wiring loom is correctly

routed and retained by all the relevant
retaining clips; all connectors should be
correctly and securely reconnected.

b) Prior to refitting the driveshafts to the

transmission, renew the driveshaft oil
seals as described in Chapter 7A.

c) Ensure that all coolant hoses are correctly

reconnected, and securely retained by
their retaining clips.

d) Adjust the clutch cable as described in

Chapter 6.

e) Adjust the choke cable and/or accelerator

cable (as applicable) as described in the
relevant Part of Chapter 4.

f) Refill the engine and transmission with

correct quantity and type of lubricant, as
described in Chapter 7A.

g) Refill the cooling system as described in

Chapter 1.

5

Engine and automatic
transmission - removal,
separation and refitting

4

Removal

Note: The engine can be removed from the
car only as a complete unit with the
transmission; the two are then separated for
overhaul.
1 Carry out the relevant operations described
in paragraphs 1 to 24 of Section 4, noting that
the transmission oil draining procedure is
given in Chapter 1. Before lifting the engine
from the engine compartment, carry out the
following operations, using the information
given in Chapter 7B:

a) Remove the transmission dipstick tube.
b) Disconnect the wiring from the starter

inhibitor/reversing light switch and the
speedometer drive housing. Release the
earth strap(s) from the top of the
transmission housing.

c) Disconnect the selector cable.
d) Release the power steering pipe from the

transmission.

e) Disconnect the speedometer cable.

2C•6 Engine removal and overhaul

Separation

2 With the engine/transmission assembly
removed, support the assembly on suitable
blocks of wood, on a workbench (or failing
that, on a clean area of the workshop floor).
3 Detach the kickdown cable from the throttle
cam. Work back along the cable, freeing it
from any retaining clips, and noting its correct
routing.
4 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the
driveplate lower cover plate from the
transmission, to gain access to the torque
converter retaining bolts. Slacken and remove
the visible bolt. Rotate the crankshaft using a
socket and extension bar on the pulley bolt,
and undo the remaining bolts securing the
torque converter to the driveplate as they
become accessible. There are three bolts in
total.
5 Slacken and remove the retaining bolts,
and remove the starter motor from the
transmission.
6 To ensure that the torque converter does
not fall out as the transmission is removed,
secure it in position using a length of metal
strip bolted to one of the starter motor bolt
holes.
7 Ensure that both the engine and
transmission are adequately supported, then
slacken and remove the remaining bolts
securing the transmission housing to the
engine. Note the correct fitted positions of
each bolt (and any relevant brackets) as they
are removed, to use as a reference on
refitting.
8 Carefully withdraw the transmission from
the engine. If the locating dowels are a loose
fit in the engine/transmission, remove them
and keep them in a safe place.

Refitting

9 If the engine and transmission have been
separated, perform the operations described
below in paragraphs 10 to 16. If not, proceed
as described from paragraph 17 onwards.
10 Ensure that the bush fitted to the centre of
the crankshaft is in good condition. Apply a
little Molykote G1 grease (available from your
Peugeot dealer) to the torque converter
centring pin. Do not apply too much,
otherwise there is a possibility of the grease
contaminating the torque converter.
11 Ensure that the locating dowels are
correctly positioned in the engine or
transmission.
12 Carefully offer the transmission to the
engine, until the locating dowels are engaged.
13 Refit the transmission housing-to-engine
bolts, ensuring that all the necessary brackets
are correctly positioned, and tighten them to
the specified torque setting.
14 Remove the torque converter retaining
strap installed prior to removal. Align the
torque converter threaded holes with the
retaining plate, and refit the three retaining
bolts.
15 Tighten the torque converter retaining

bolts to the specified torque setting, then refit
the driveplate lower cover.
16 Refit the starter motor, and securely
tighten its retaining bolts.
17 Refit the engine to the vehicle with
reference to Section 4.
18 The remainder of the refitting procedure is
a reversal of the removal sequence, noting the
following points:

a) Ensure that the wiring loom is correctly

routed, and retained by all the relevant
retaining clips; all connectors should be
correctly and securely reconnected.

b) Prior to refitting the driveshafts to the

transmission, renew the driveshaft oil
seals as described in Chapter 7B.

c) Ensure that all coolant hoses are correctly

reconnected, and securely retained by
their retaining clips.

d) Adjust the selector cable and kickdown

cable as described in Chapter 7B.

e) Adjust the accelerator cable as described

in Chapter 4.

f) Refill the engine and transmission with

correct quantity and type of lubricant, as
described in Chapter 1.

g) Refill the cooling system as described in

Chapter 1.

6

Engine overhaul - 
dismantling sequence

1 It is much easier to dismantle and work on
the engine if it is mounted on a portable
engine stand. These stands can often be hired
from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is
mounted on a stand, the flywheel/driveplate
should be removed, so that the stand bolts
can be tightened into the end of the cylinder
block/crankcase.
2 If a stand is not available, it is possible to
dismantle the engine with it blocked up on a
sturdy workbench, or on the floor. Be extra-
careful not to tip or drop the engine when
working without a stand.
3 If you are going to obtain a reconditioned
engine, all the external components must be
removed first, to be transferred to the
replacement engine (just as they will if you are
doing a complete engine overhaul yourself).
These components include the following:

a) Alternator mounting brackets.
b) Power steering pump and air conditioning

compressor brackets (where fitted).

c) Thermostat and housing, and coolant

outlet chamber/elbow (Chapter 3).

d) Dipstick tube.
e) Carburettor/fuel system components

(Chapter 4).

f) All electrical switches and sensors.
g) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Chapter 4).
h) Oil filter (Chapter 1).
i) Fuel pump - carburettor engines only

(Chapter 4).

j) Flywheel/driveplate (Part A or B of this

Chapter).

Note:

When removing the external

components from the engine, pay close
attention to details that may be helpful or
important during refitting. Note the fitted
position of gaskets, seals, spacers, pins,
washers, bolts, and other small items.
4 If you are obtaining a “short” engine (which
consists of the engine cylinder block/
crankcase, crankshaft, pistons and
connecting rods all assembled), then the
cylinder head, sump, oil pump, and timing belt
will have to be removed also.
5 If you are planning a complete overhaul, the
engine can be dismantled, and the internal
components removed, in the order given
below, referring to Part A or B of this Chapter
unless otherwise stated.

a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Chapter 4).
b) Timing belt, sprockets and tensioner(s).
c) Cylinder head.
d) Flywheel/driveplate.
e) Sump.
f) Oil pump.
g) Piston/connecting rod assemblies

(Section 10).

h) Crankshaft (Section 11).

6 Before beginning the dismantling and
overhaul procedures, make sure that you have
all of the correct tools necessary. Refer to
“Tools and working facilities” for further
information.

7

Cylinder head - dismantling

3

Note: New and reconditioned cylinder heads
are available from the manufacturer, and from
engine overhaul specialists. Be aware that
some specialist tools are required for the
dismantling and inspection procedures, and
new components may not be readily available.
It may therefore be more practical and
economical for the home mechanic to
purchase a reconditioned head, rather than
dismantle, inspect and recondition the original
head.
1 Remove the cylinder head as described in
Part A or B of this Chapter (as applicable).
2 If not already done, remove the inlet and
exhaust manifolds with reference to the
relevant Part of Chapter 4.
3 Remove the camshaft(s), followers and
shims (as applicable) as described in Part A or
B of this Chapter.
4 Using a valve spring compressor, compress
each valve spring in turn until the split collets
can be removed. Release the compressor,
and lift off the spring retainer, spring and
spring seat. Using a pair of pliers, carefully
extract the valve stem seal from the top of the
guide (see illustrations).
5 If, when the valve spring compressor is
screwed down, the spring retainer refuses to
free and expose the split collets, gently tap
the top of the tool, directly over the retainer,
with a light hammer. This will free the retainer.

Engine removal and overhaul  2C•7

2C

6 Withdraw the valve through the combustion
chamber.
7 It is essential that each valve is stored
together with its collets, retainer, spring, and
spring seat. The valves should also be kept in
their correct sequence, unless they are so
badly worn that they are to be renewed. If
they are going to be kept and used again,
place each valve assembly in a labelled
polythene bag or similar small container (see
illustration). Note that No 1 valve is nearest to
the transmission (flywheel/driveplate) end of
the engine.
8 On XU engines extract the gauze oil filter
from the oil gallery in the cylinder head (see
illustration).

8

Cylinder head and valves -
cleaning and inspection

2

1 Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head and
valve components, followed by a detailed
inspection, will enable you to decide how
much valve service work must be carried out
during the engine overhaul. Note: If the
engine has been severely overheated, it is best
to assume that the cylinder head is warped -
check carefully for signs of this.

Cleaning

2 Scrape away all traces of old gasket
material from the cylinder head.
3 Scrape away the carbon from the
combustion chambers and ports, then wash
the cylinder head thoroughly with paraffin or a
suitable solvent.

4 Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits that
may have formed on the valves, then use a
power-operated wire brush to remove
deposits from the valve heads and stems.

Inspection

Note: Be sure to perform all the following
inspection procedures before concluding that
the services of a machine shop or engine
overhaul specialist are required. Make a list of
all items that require attention.

Cylinder head

5 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks,
evidence of coolant leakage, and other
damage. If cracks are found, a new cylinder
head should be obtained.
6 Use a straight-edge and feeler blade to
check that the cylinder head surface is not
distorted (see illustration). If it is, it may be
possible to have it machined, provided that

8.6  Checking the cylinder head gasket

surface for distortion

7.8  Oil filter partly withdrawn from the oil

gallery in the cylinder head

7.7  Place each valve and its associated

components in a labelled polythene bag

2C•8 Engine removal and overhaul

7.4a  Compress the valve spring using a

spring compressor . . .

7.4c  Remove the spring retainer . . .

7.4f  Remove the valve stem oil seal using

a pair of pliers

7.4e  . . . and the spring seat

7.4d  . . . followed by the valve spring . . .

7.4b  . . . then extract the collets and

release the spring compressor

the cylinder head is not reduced to less than
the specified height.
7 Examine the valve seats in each of the
combustion chambers. If they are severely
pitted, cracked, or burned, they will need to
be renewed or re-cut by an engine overhaul
specialist. If they are only slightly pitted, this
can be removed by grinding-in the valve
heads and seats with fine valve-grinding
compound, as described below.
8 Check the valve guides for wear by
inserting the relevant valve, and checking for
side-to-side motion of the valve. A very small
amount of movement is acceptable. If the
movement seems excessive, remove the
valve. Measure the valve stem diameter (see
below), and renew the valve if it is worn. If the
valve stem is not worn, the wear must be in
the valve guide, and the guide must be
renewed. The renewal of valve guides is best
carried out by a Peugeot dealer or engine
overhaul specialist, who will have the
necessary tools available. Where no valve
stem diameter is specified, seek the advice of
a Peugeot dealer on the best course of action.
9 If renewing the valve guides, the valve seats
should be re-cut or re-ground only after the
guides have been fitted.

Valves

10 Examine the head of each valve for
pitting, burning, cracks, and general wear.
Check the valve stem for scoring and wear
ridges. Rotate the valve, and check for any
obvious indication that it is bent. Look for pits
or excessive wear on the tip of each valve
stem. Renew any valve that shows any such
signs of wear or damage.
11 If the valve appears satisfactory at this
stage, measure the valve stem diameter at
several points using a micrometer (see
illustration). Any significant difference in the
readings obtained indicates wear of the valve
stem. Should any of these conditions be
apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed.
12 If the valves are in satisfactory condition,
they should be ground (lapped) into their
respective seats, to ensure a smooth, gas-
tight seal. If the seat is only lightly pitted, or if
it has been re-cut, fine grinding compound
only should be used to produce the required
finish. Coarse valve-grinding compound
should not be used, unless a seat is badly
burned or deeply pitted. If this is the case, the

cylinder head and valves should be inspected
by an expert, to decide whether seat re-
cutting, or even the renewal of the valve or
seat insert (where possible) is required.
13 Valve grinding is done as follows. Place
the cylinder head upside-down on a bench.
14 Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade
of) valve-grinding compound on the seat face,
and press a suction grinding tool onto the
valve head (see illustration). With a semi-
rotary action, grind the valve head to its seat,
lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute the
grinding compound. A light spring placed
under the valve head will greatly ease this
operation.
15 If coarse grinding compound is being
used, work only until a dull, matt even surface
is produced on both the valve seat and the
valve, then wipe off the used compound, and
repeat the process with fine compound. When
a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt
finish is produced on both the valve and seat,
the grinding operation is complete. Do not
grind-in the valves any further than absolutely
necessary, or the seat will be prematurely
sunk into the cylinder head.
16 When all the valves have been ground-in,
carefully wash off all traces of grinding
compound using paraffin or a suitable solvent,
before reassembling the cylinder head.

Valve components

17 Examine the valve springs for signs of
damage and discoloration. No minimum free
length is specified by Peugeot, so the only
way of judging valve spring wear is by
comparison with a new component.
18 Stand each spring on a flat surface, and

check it for squareness. If any of the springs
are damaged, distorted or have lost their
tension, obtain a complete new set of springs.
It is normal to renew the valve springs as a
matter of course if a major overhaul is being
carried out.
19 Renew the valve stem oil seals regardless
of their apparent condition.

9

Cylinder head - reassembly

3

1 Lubricate the stems of the valves, and
insert the valves into their original locations
(see illustration). If new valves are being
fitted, insert them into the locations to which
they have been ground.
2 Refit the spring seat then, working on the
first valve, dip the new valve stem seal in fresh
engine oil. Carefully locate it over the valve
and onto the guide. Take care not to damage
the seal as it is passed over the valve stem.
Use a suitable socket or metal tube to press
the seal firmly onto the guide (see
illustration).
3 Locate the valve spring on top of its seat,
then refit the spring retainer.
4 Compress the valve spring, and locate the
split collets in the recess in the valve stem.
Release the compressor, then repeat the
procedure on the remaining valves.

5 With all the valves installed, place the
cylinder head flat on the bench and, using a
hammer and interposed block of wood, tap
the end of each valve stem to settle the
components.
6 Refit the camshaft(s), followers and shims
(as applicable) as described in Part A or B of
this Chapter.
7 On XU engines refit the gauze oil filter
(clean) to the oil gallery in the cylinder head. If
the filter is damaged fit a new one.
8 The cylinder head can then be refitted as
described in Part A or B of this Chapter.

Engine removal and overhaul  2C•9

9.1  Lubricate the valve stems 

prior to refitting

8.14  Grinding-in a valve

8.11  Measuring a valve stem diameter

2C

9.2  Fitting a valve stem oil seal 

using a socket

Use a little dab of grease to
hold the collets on the valve
stem while the spring
compressor is released.

10 Piston/connecting rod

assembly - removal

4

1 Remove the cylinder head, sump and oil
pump as described in Part A or B of this
Chapter (as applicable).
2 If there is a pronounced wear ridge at the
top of any bore, it may be necessary to
remove it with a scraper or ridge reamer, to
avoid piston damage during removal. Such a
ridge indicates excessive wear of the cylinder
bore.
3 Using a hammer and centre-punch, paint or
similar, mark each connecting rod big-end
bearing cap with its respective cylinder
number on the flat machined surface
provided; if the engine has been dismantled
before, note carefully any identifying marks
made previously (see illustration). Note that
No 1 cylinder is at the transmission (flywheel)
end of the engine.
4 Turn the crankshaft to bring pistons 1 and 4
to BDC (bottom dead centre).
5 Unscrew the nuts from No 1 piston big-end
bearing cap. Take off the cap, and recover the
bottom half bearing shell (see illustration). If
the bearing shells are to be re-used, tape the
cap and the shell together.
6 To prevent the possibility of damage to the
crankshaft bearing journals, tape over the
connecting rod stud threads (see
illustration).
7 Using a hammer handle, push the piston up
through the bore, and remove it from the top
of the cylinder block. Recover the bearing
shell, and tape it to the connecting rod for
safe-keeping.
8 Loosely refit the big-end cap to the
connecting rod, and secure with the nuts -
this will help to keep the components in their
correct order.
9 Remove No 4 piston assembly in the same
way.
10 Turn the crankshaft through 180° to bring
pistons 2 and 3 to BDC (bottom dead centre),
and remove them in the same way.

11 Crankshaft - removal

4

1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and the oil
pump as described in Part A or B of this
Chapter (as applicable). Also unbolt and
remove the timing belt rear cover noting the
position of the special retaining studs (see
illustration).
2 Remove the pistons and connecting rods,
as described in Section 10. If no work is to be
done on the pistons and connecting rods,
there is no need to remove the cylinder head,
or to push the pistons out of the cylinder
bores. The pistons should just be pushed far
enough up the bores that they are positioned
clear of the crankshaft journals.
3 Check the crankshaft endfloat as described
in Section 14, then proceed as follows.

TU series 
aluminium block engines 

4 Work around the outside of the cylinder
block, and unscrew all the small (6 mm) bolts
securing the main bearing ladder to the base
of the cylinder block. Note the correct fitted
depth of both the front and rear crankshaft oil
seals in the cylinder block/main bearing
ladder.
5 Working in a diagonal sequence, evenly
and progressively slacken the ten large 
(11 mm) main bearing ladder retaining bolts

by a turn at a time. Once all the bolts are
loose, remove them from the ladder.
6 With all the retaining bolts removed,
carefully lift the main bearing ladder casting
away from the base of the cylinder block.
Recover the lower main bearing shells, and
tape them to their respective locations in the
casting. If the two locating dowels are a loose
fit, remove them and store them with the
casting for safe-keeping.
7 Lift out the crankshaft, and discard both the
oil seals. Remove the oil pump drive chain
from the end of the crankshaft. Where
necessary, slide off the drive sprocket, and
recover the Woodruff key.
8 Recover the upper main bearing shells, and
store them along with the relevant lower
bearing shell. Also recover the two
thrustwashers (one fitted either side of No 2
main bearing) from the cylinder block.

TU series 
cast-iron block engines

9 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft front and
rear oil seal housings from each end of the
cylinder block, noting the correct fitted
locations of the locating dowels. If the
locating dowels are a loose fit, remove them
and store them with the housings for safe-
keeping.
10 Remove the oil pump drive chain, and
slide the drive sprocket off the end of the
crankshaft. Remove the Woodruff key, and
store it with the sprocket for safe-keeping.
11 The main bearing caps should be
numbered 1 to 5 from the transmission
(flywheel) end of the engine. If not, mark them
accordingly using a centre-punch or paint.
12 Unscrew and remove the main bearing
cap bolts, and withdraw the caps. Recover
the lower main bearing shells, and tape them
to their respective caps for safe-keeping.
13 Carefully lift out the crankshaft, taking
care not to displace the upper main bearing
shell.
14 Recover the upper bearing shells from the
cylinder block, and tape them to their
respective caps for safe-keeping. Remove the
thrustwasher halves from the side of No 2
main bearing, and store them with the bearing
cap.

2C•10 Engine removal and overhaul

10.3  Connecting rod and big-end bearing

cap marked for identification 

(No 3 cylinder shown)

10.6  To protect the crankshaft journals,

tape over the connecting rod stud threads

prior to removal

11.1  Timing belt rear cover special studs

10.5  Removing a big-end bearing cap 

and shell