Peugeot 405 Haynes (petrol). Manual - part 9

55 Note that there may be timing marks on
the belt, in the form of yellow lines, to ensure it
is correctly positioned on both camshaft
sprockets and the crankshaft sprocket. The
two single-line timing marks should be aligned
with the timing dot (directly opposite the
sprocket timing hole) on each camshaft
sprocket. The double-line timing mark should
be aligned with the crankshaft sprocket,
where it will be directly opposite the sprocket
Woodruff key slot. Peugeot state that the use
of these timing marks is optional, but they are
useful in helping to ensure that the valve
timing is correctly set at the first attempt.
56 With the three locking pins in position,
move both the front and rear tensioner pulleys
towards the timing belt until both pulleys are
contacting the belt. Securely tighten the
retaining bolts.
57 If the tension is being set without the use
of the special measuring tool, proceed as
follows. Using the square-section key fitted to
the hole in the tensioner backplate, move the
front tensioner pulley against the belt until all
free play is removed from the belt. Hold the
tensioner in this position, and tighten the
pulley retaining bolts to the specified torque.
Similarly move the rear tensioner pulley
against the belt and tighten the bolt.
58 If the special belt tension measuring
equipment is available, it should be fitted to
the “front run” of the timing belt, between the
front tensioner and the camshaft sprocket.
Move the front tensioner pulley anti-clockwise
so that the belt is tensioned to a setting of 19
units, then tighten the retaining bolt to the
specified torque setting.
59 Slacken the rear tensioner pulley retaining
bolt. Using the square-section key, pivot the
pulley clockwise until the belt tension on the
“front run” is 21 units. Hold the tensioner in
position, and tighten its retaining bolt to the
specified torque setting.
60 Remove the locking pins from the
camshaft and crankshaft sprockets and,
where fitted, the tensioning measuring device
from the belt.
61 Rotate the crankshaft through at least two
complete rotations in a clockwise direction
(viewed from the right-hand end of the
engine). Realign the camshaft and crankshaft
engine assembly/valve timing holes (see
Section 3). Do not at any time rotate the
crankshaft anti-clockwise. Both camshaft
timing holes and the crankshaft timing hole
should be correctly positioned so that the
locking pins can be easily inserted, indicating
that the valve timing is correct.
62 If the timing holes are not correctly
positioned, repeat the tensioning procedure.
63 Once the valve timing is correctly set,
remove the locking pins and recheck the belt
tension.
64 If the tension is being set without the
special measuring tool, proceed as follows.
Check that, under moderate pressure from
the thumb and forefinger, the belt can just be
twisted through 45°, at the mid-point between

the camshaft sprocket and tensioner pulley on
the “front run” of the belt. Note that this
method is only an initial setting, and the belt
tension must be checked at the earliest
available opportunity using the special
measuring tool. Failure to do so could lead to
the belt breaking (through over-tightening) or
slipping (through slackness), resulting in
serious engine damage.
65 If the special measuring tool is being
used, the final belt tension on the “front run”
of the belt, between the camshaft sprocket
and tensioner pulley, should be 45 ± 5 units.
Repeat the procedure as necessary, until the
correct tension reading is obtained after the
crankshaft has been rotated.
66 Once the belt tension is correctly set, refit
the timing belt covers as described in 
Section 6. Refit the crankshaft pulley as
described in Section 5, and reconnect the
battery negative terminal

1998 cc 16-valve models

Note: Peugeot specify the use of a special
electronic tool (SEEM belt tension measuring
tool) to correctly set the timing belt tension. If
this equipment is not available, an
approximate setting can be achieved using
the method described below. If this method is
used, however, the tension must be checked
using the special electronic tool at the earliest
possible opportunity. Do not drive the vehicle
over large distances, or use high engine
speeds, until the belt tension is known to be
correct. Refer to a Peugeot dealer for advice.
67 Before refitting, thoroughly clean the
timing belt sprockets. Check that each
tensioner pulley rotates freely, without any
sign of roughness. If necessary, renew the
tensioner pulley(s) as described in Section 8.
68 Ensure that the camshaft and crankshaft
sprocket locking pins are still in position.
Slacken the tensioner mounting bolts so that
they are free to pivot easily.
69 Manoeuvre the timing belt into position,
ensuring that any arrows on the belt are
pointing in the direction of rotation (clockwise
when viewed from the right-hand end of the
engine).
70 Note that there are also timing marks on
the belt, in the form of yellow lines, to ensure it
is correctly positioned on both camshaft
sprockets and the crankshaft sprocket. The
two single-line timing marks should be aligned
with the timing dot (directly opposite the
sprocket timing hole) on each camshaft
sprocket. The double-line timing mark should
be aligned with the crankshaft sprocket,
where it will be directly opposite the sprocket
Woodruff key slot. Peugeot state that the use
of these timing marks is optional, but they are
useful in helping to ensure that the valve
timing is correctly set at the first attempt.
71 With the three locking pins in position,
move both the front and rear tensioner pulleys
towards the timing belt until both pulleys are
contacting the belt. Securely tighten the rear
tensioner retaining bolt.

72 If the tension is being set without the use
of the special measuring tool, proceed as
follows. Using the square-section key fitted to
the hole in the tensioner backplate, move the
front tensioner pulley against the belt until all
free play is removed from the belt. Hold the
tensioner in this position, and tighten the
pulley retaining bolts to the specified torque.
73 If the special belt tension measuring
equipment is available, it should be fitted to
the “front run” of the timing belt, between the
front tensioner and the camshaft sprocket.
Move the tensioner pulley backplate so that
the belt is initially over-tensioned to a setting
of 45 units, then back the tensioner off until
the belt tension is 22 ± 2 units. Hold the
backplate in this position, and tighten both the
tensioner pulley retaining bolts to the
specified torque.
74 Slacken the rear tensioner pulley retaining
bolt. Using the square-section key, pivot the
pulley anti-clockwise until all free play is
removed from the belt. If the belt tension
measuring equipment is being used, set the
tensioner pulley so that the belt tension on the
“front run” is 32 ± 2 units. Hold the tensioner
in position, and tighten its retaining bolt to the
specified torque setting.
75 Remove the locking pins from the
camshaft and crankshaft sprockets and,
where fitted, the tensioning measuring device
from the belt.
76 Rotate the crankshaft through at least two
complete rotations in a clockwise direction
(viewed from the right-hand end of the
engine). Realign the camshaft and crankshaft
engine assembly/valve timing holes (see
Section 3). Do not at any time rotate the
crankshaft anti-clockwise. Both camshaft
timing holes and the crankshaft timing hole
should be correctly positioned so that the
locking pins can be easily inserted, indicating
that the valve timing is correct.
77 If the timing holes are not correctly
positioned, slacken the tensioner assembly
retaining bolts, and disengage the belt from
the camshaft sprockets. Rotate the camshafts
and crankshaft slightly as required until all
locking pins are in position, then relocate the
timing belt on the camshaft sprocket. Ensure
that the belt “top run” and “front run” are taut
- ie, ensure that any slack is on the rear
tensioner pulley and water pump side of the
belt. Repeat the tensioning procedure until the
valve timing is correct.
78 Once the valve timing is correctly set,
remove the locking pins and recheck the belt
tension.
79 If the tension is being set without the
special measuring tool, proceed as follows.
Check that, under moderate pressure from
the thumb and forefinger, the belt can just be
twisted through 45°, at the mid-point between
the camshaft sprocket and tensioner pulley on
the “front run” of the belt. Note that this
method is only an initial setting, and the belt
tension must be checked at the earliest
available opportunity using the special

XU engine in-car repair procedures  2B•11

2B

measuring tool. Failure to do so could lead to
the belt breaking (through over-tightening) or
slipping (through slackness), resulting in
serious engine damage. If necessary, readjust
the rear tensioner pulley position as required,
and tighten its retaining bolt to the specified
torque.
80 If the special measuring tool is being
used, the final belt tension on the “front run”
of the belt, between the camshaft sprocket
and tensioner pulley, should be 53 ± 2 units.
Readjust the rear tensioner pulley position as
required, then retighten the retaining bolt to
the specified torque. Rotate the crankshaft
through a further two rotations clockwise, and
recheck the tension. Repeat this procedure as
necessary, until the correct tension reading is
obtained after the crankshaft has been
rotated.
81 Once the belt tension is correctly set, refit
the timing belt covers (see Section 6). Refit the
crankshaft pulley as described in Section 5,
and reconnect the battery negative terminal

8

Timing belt tensioner and
sprockets - removal,
inspection and refitting

4

Note: This Section describes the removal and
refitting of the components concerned as
individual operations - if more than one is to
be removed at the same time, start by
removing the timing belt as described in
Section 7; remove the actual component as
described below, ignoring the preliminary
dismantling steps.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Align the engine assembly/valve timing
holes as described in Section 3, locking the
camshaft sprocket(s) and the crankshaft
pulley in position, and proceed as described
under the relevant sub-heading. Do not
attempt to rotate the engine whilst the pins
are in position.

Camshaft sprocket - early (pre-1992)
1580 cc and 1905 cc 8-valve models
with a semi-automatic belt tensioner

3 Remove the centre timing belt cover as
described in Section 6.
4 Slacken (but do not remove) the two nuts
securing the tensioner assembly to the end of
the cylinder block. Loosen the tensioner cam
spindle locknut, located on the rear of cylinder
block flange.
5 Using a suitable open-ended spanner on
the square-section end of the tensioner cam
spindle, rotate the cam until the tensioner
spring is fully compressed and the belt
tension is relieved. Hold the cam in this
position, and securely tighten the locknut.
6 Remove the locking pin from the camshaft
sprocket. Disengage the timing belt from the
sprocket and position it clear, taking care not
to bend or twist the belt sharply.

7 Slacken the camshaft sprocket retaining
bolt and remove it, along with its washer. To
prevent the camshaft rotating as the bolt is
slackened, a sprocket holding tool will be
required. In the absence of the special
Peugeot tool, an acceptable substitute can be
fabricated from two lengths of steel strip (one
long, the other short) and three nuts and bolts,
as follows. One nut and bolt forms the pivot of
a forked tool, with the remaining two nuts and
bolts at the tips of the “forks” to engage with
the sprocket spokes, as shown in illustration
8.39.  Do not attempt to use the sprocket
locking pin to prevent the sprocket from
rotating whilst the bolt is slackened.
8 With the retaining bolt removed, slide the
sprocket off the end of the camshaft. If the
locating peg is a loose fit in the rear of the
sprocket, remove it for safe-keeping. Examine
the camshaft oil seal for signs of oil leakage
and, if necessary, renew it as described in
Section 9.

Camshaft sprocket - later (1992-on)
1580 cc and 1905 cc (8-valve) models
with a manually-adjusted belt
tensioner pulley, and all 1761 cc and
1998 cc (8-valve) models

9 On all except 1998 cc 8-valve models,
remove the centre timing belt cover as
described in Section 6.
10 Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley
retaining bolt. Rotate the pulley in a clockwise
direction, using a suitable square-section key
fitted to the hole in the pulley hub, then
retighten the retaining bolt.
11 Remove the camshaft sprocket as
described above in paragraphs 6 to 8.

Camshaft sprocket(s) - 
1905 cc 16-valve models

12 With the timing covers removed, loosen
the timing belt front and rear tensioner pulley
retaining bolts. Pivot the front pulley in a
clockwise direction, using a suitable square-
section key fitted to the hole in the pulley hub,
then securely retighten the retaining bolt.
Similarly pivot the rear pulley in an anti-
clockwise direction and retighten the bolt.
13 Remove the camshaft sprocket retaining
bolt as described in paragraphs 6 and 7.
14 Slide the sprocket off the end of the
camshaft. If the Woodruff key is a loose fit in
the camshaft, remove it and store it with the
sprocket for safe-keeping. Examine the
camshaft oil seal for signs of oil leakage and,
if necessary, renew it (see Section 9).

Camshaft sprocket(s) - 1998 cc 16-
valve models

15 Loosen the timing belt rear tensioner
pulley retaining bolt. Pivot the pulley in a
clockwise direction, using a suitable square-
section key fitted to the hole in the pulley hub,
then securely retighten the retaining bolt.
16 Loosen the two front tensioner assembly
retaining bolts. Move the tensioner pulley
away from the belt, using the same square-
section key on the pulley backplate.

17 Remove the camshaft sprocket retaining
bolt as described in paragraphs 6 and 7.
18 Slide the sprocket off the end of the
camshaft. If the Woodruff key is a loose fit in
the camshaft, remove it and store it with the
sprocket for safe-keeping. Examine the
camshaft oil seal for signs of oil leakage and,
if necessary, renew it (see Section 9).

Crankshaft sprocket - 
1580 cc, 1761 cc, 1905 cc and 
1998 cc 8-valve models

19 Remove the centre and/or lower timing
belt cover(s) (as applicable) as described in
Section 6.
20 On early (pre-1992) 1580 cc and 1905 cc
models with a semi-automatic belt tensioner,
release the timing belt tensioner as described
above in paragraphs 4 and 5.
21 On later (1992-on) 1580 cc and 1905 cc
models with a manually-adjusted belt
tensioner pulley, and all 1761 cc and 1998 cc
8-valve models, release the timing belt
tensioner as described in paragraph 10.
22 Disengage the timing belt from the
crankshaft sprocket, and slide the sprocket
off the end of the crankshaft. Remove the
Woodruff key from the crankshaft, and store it
with the sprocket for safe-keeping. Where
necessary, also slide the flanged spacer
(where fitted) off the end of the crankshaft.
23 Examine the crankshaft oil seal for signs
of oil leakage and, if necessary, renew it as
described in Section 16.

Crankshaft sprocket - 
1905 cc and 1998 cc 16-valve models

24 Remove the lower timing belt cover as
described in Section 6.
25 Release the timing belt tensioners as
described above in paragraphs 12 or 15 and
16 (as applicable). Disengage the timing belt
from the crankshaft sprocket, and remove the
locking pin.
26 To prevent the crankshaft turning whilst
the sprocket retaining bolt is being slackened,
select 4th gear, and have an assistant apply
the brakes firmly. If the engine has been
removed from the vehicle, lock the flywheel
ring gear using the arrangement shown in
illustration 5.3 (Section 5). Do not be tempted
to use the locking pin to prevent the
crankshaft from rotating.
27 Unscrew the retaining bolt and washer,
then slide the sprocket off the end of the
crankshaft. If the Woodruff key is a loose fit in
the crankshaft, remove it and store it with the
sprocket for safe-keeping.
28 Where necessary, slide the flanged
spacer (where fitted) off the crankshaft.
29 Examine the crankshaft oil seal for signs
of oil leakage and, if necessary, renew it as
described in Section 16.

Tensioner assembly - early (pre-1992)
1580 cc and 1905 cc 8-valve models
with a semi-automatic belt tensioner

30 Remove the centre timing belt cover as
described in Section 6.

2B•12 XU engine in-car repair procedures

31 Slacken and remove the two nuts and
washers securing the tensioner assembly to
the end of the cylinder block. Carefully ease
the spring cover off its studs, taking care not
to allow the spring to fly out as the cover is
withdrawn. Remove the spring and cover from
the engine (see illustration).
32 Slacken and remove the tensioner cam
spindle locknut and washer, located on the
rear of cylinder block flange, and withdraw the
cam spindle.
33 The tensioner pulley and backplate
assembly can then be manoeuvred out from
behind the timing belt.

Tensioner pulley - later (1992-on) 
1580 cc and 1905 cc 8-valve models
with a manually-adjusted belt
tensioner pulley, and all 1761 cc and
1998 cc 8-valve models

34 On all except 1998 cc 8-valve models,
remove the centre timing belt cover as
described in Section 6.
35 Slacken and remove the timing belt
tensioner pulley retaining bolt, and slide the
pulley off its mounting stud. Examine the
mounting stud for signs of damage and if
necessary, renew it.

Tensioner pulleys - 
1905 cc 16-valve models

36 The front and rear tensioner pulleys are
removed as described above.

Tensioner pulleys - 
1998 cc 16-valve models

37 The rear tensioner pulley is removed as
described above.
38 To remove the front tensioner pulley,
slacken and remove the two bolts securing
the pulley backplate to the cylinder block, and
remove the assembly from the engine.

Inspection

39 Clean the camshaft/crankshaft sprockets
thoroughly, and renew any that show signs of
wear, damage or cracks.
40 Clean the tensioner assembly, but do not
use any strong solvent which may enter the
pulley bearing. Check that the pulley rotates
freely on the backplate, with no sign of
stiffness or free play. Renew the assembly if
there is any doubt about its condition, or if

there are any obvious signs of wear or
damage.
41 On early 1580 cc and 1905 cc models, the
tensioner spring should also be carefully
checked, as its condition is critical for the
correct tensioning of the timing belt. The only
way to check the spring tension is to compare
it with a new one; if there is any doubt as to its
condition, the spring should be renewed.

Refitting

Camshaft sprocket - early (pre-1992)
1580 cc and 1905 cc 8-valve models
with a semi-automatic belt tensioner

42 Refit the locating peg (where removed) to
the rear of the sprocket. Locate the sprocket
on the end of the camshaft, ensuring that the
locating peg is correctly engaged with the
cutout in the camshaft end.
43 Refit the sprocket retaining bolt and
washer, and tighten it to the specified torque.
Retain the sprocket with the tool used on
removal (see illustration).
44 Realign the hole in the camshaft sprocket
with the corresponding hole in the cylinder
head, and refit the locking pin. Check that the
crankshaft pulley locking pin is still in position.
45 Refit the timing belt to the camshaft
sprocket. Ensure that the “front run” of the
belt is taut - ie, that any slack is on the
tensioner pulley side of the belt. Do not twist
the belt sharply while refitting it, and ensure
that the belt teeth are seated centrally in the
sprockets.
46 Release the tensioner cam spindle
locknut, and check that the tensioner pulley is
forced against the timing belt under spring
pressure.
47 Tension the timing belt (see Section 7).
48 With the belt correctly tensioned, and the
tensioner retaining nuts and locknut tightened
to the specified torque setting, refit the timing
belt covers as described in Section 6.
Reconnect the battery on completion.

Camshaft sprocket - later (1992-on)
1580 cc and 1905 cc (8-valve) models
with a manually-adjusted belt
tensioner pulley, and all 1761 cc and
1998 cc (8-valve) models

49 Refit the camshaft sprocket as described
above.

50 With the timing belt correctly engaged on
the sprockets, tension the belt as described in
Section 7.
51 Once the belt is correctly tensioned, refit
the timing belt covers (see Section 6).

Camshaft sprocket(s) - 1905 cc and
1998 cc 16-valve models

52 Refit the Woodruff key to its slot in the
camshaft end. Slide on the sprocket, aligning
its slot with the Woodruff key.
53 Refit the sprocket retaining bolt and
washer. Tighten the bolt to the specified
torque, whilst retaining the sprocket with the
tool used on removal.
54 Realign the hole in the camshaft sprocket
with the corresponding hole in the cylinder
head, and refit the locking pin.
55 Relocate the timing belt on the camshaft
sprocket(s), and tension the timing belt as
described in Section 7.
56 Once the belt is correctly tensioned, refit
the timing belt cover (Section 6).

Crankshaft sprocket - 
1580 cc, 1761 cc, 1905 cc and 
1998 cc 8-valve models

57 Slide on the flanged spacer (where fitted),
and refit the Woodruff key to its slot in the
crankshaft end.
58 Slide on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning
its slot with the Woodruff key.
59 Ensure that the camshaft sprocket locking
pin is still in position. Temporarily refit the
crankshaft pulley, and insert the locking pin
through the pulley timing hole, to ensure that
the crankshaft is still correctly positioned.
60 Remove the crankshaft pulley. Engage the
timing belt with the crankshaft sprocket.
Ensure that the belt “front run” is taut - ie, that
any slack is on the tensioner pulley side of the
belt. Fit the belt over the water pump sprocket
and tensioner pulley. Do not twist the belt
sharply while refitting it, and ensure that the
belt teeth are seated centrally in the
sprockets.
61 On early (pre-1992) 1580 cc and 1905 cc
models with a semi-automatic tensioner,
release the tensioner cam spindle locknut,
checking that the tensioner pulley is forced
against the timing belt under spring pressure.
Tension the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
62 On later (1992-on) 1580 cc and 1905 cc
models with a manually-adjusted belt
tensioner pulley, and all 1761 cc and 1998 cc
8-valve models, tension the timing belt as
described in Section 7.
63 On all models, remove the crankshaft
pulley, then refit the timing belt cover(s) as
described in Section 6.
64 Refit the crankshaft pulley (Section 5), and
reconnect the battery negative terminal.

Crankshaft sprocket - 1905 cc and
1998 cc 16-valve models

65 Slide on the flanged spacer (where fitted),
and refit the Woodruff key to its slot in the
crankshaft end.

XU engine in-car repair procedures  2B•13

8.43  Using a home-made tool for retaining

the camshaft sprocket whilst the sprocket

bolt is tightened (TU engine shown)

8.31  Timing belt tensioner assembly

components - early 1580 cc 
and 1905 cc 8-valve models

2B

66 Slide on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning
its slot with the Woodruff key.
67 Thoroughly clean the threads of the
sprocket retaining bolt, then apply a coat of
locking compound to the threads of the bolt.
68 Refit the crankshaft sprocket retaining
bolt and washer. Tighten the bolt to the
specified torque, whilst preventing crankshaft
rotation using the method employed on
removal.
69 Refit the locking pin to the crankshaft
sprocket, and check that both the camshaft
sprocket locking pins are still in position.
70 Relocate the timing belt on the crankshaft
sprocket, and tension the timing belt as
described in Section 7.
71 Once the belt is correctly tensioned, refit
the timing belt cover (see Section 6).

Tensioner assembly - early (pre-1992)
1580 cc and 1905 cc 8-valve models
with a semi-automatic belt tensioner

72 Manoeuvre the tensioner pulley and
backplate assembly into position behind the
timing belt, and locate it on the mounting
studs.
73 Insert the tensioner cam spindle through
the backplate from the front of the block, and
refit its washer and locknut, tightening it by
hand only at this stage.
74 Fit the spring to the inside of the spring
cover. Compress the spring, and slide the
spring cover onto the two mounting studs,
ensuring that the spring end is correctly
located behind the backplate tang.
75 Refit the tensioner mounting nuts and
washers, tightening them by hand only. Check
that the tensioner is forced against the timing
belt by spring pressure, and is free to move
smoothly and easily.
76 Ensure that the “front run” of the belt is
taut - ie, that any slack is on the pulley side of
the belt. Check that the belt is centrally
located on all its sprockets, then release the
tensioner assembly and allow it to tension the
belt.
77 Tension the timing belt, and check the
valve timing as described in Section 7.
78 With the belt correctly tensioned, and the
tensioner retaining nuts and locknut tightened
to the specified torque setting, refit the timing
belt covers as described in Section 6.
Reconnect the battery on completion.

Tensioner pulley - later (1992-on) 
1580 cc and 1905 cc models with a
manually-adjusted belt tensioner
pulley, and all 1761 cc and 
1998 cc 8-valve models

79 Refit the tensioner pulley to its mounting
stud, and fit the retaining bolt.
80 Ensure that the “front run” of the belt is
taut - ie, that any slack is on the pulley side of
the belt. Check that the belt is centrally
located on all its sprockets. Rotate the pulley
anti-clockwise to remove all free play from the
timing belt, and securely tighten the pulley
retaining nut.
81 Tension the belt (see Section 7).

82 Once the belt is correctly tensioned, refit
the timing belt covers as described in 
Section 6.

Tensioner pulleys - 1905 cc 16-valve
models

83 Refit the tensioner pulleys to their studs,
and fit the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts
finger-tight only, so that both tensioners are
free to pivot.
84 Tension the timing belt (see Section 7).
85 Once the belt is correctly tensioned, refit
the timing belt cover (see Section 6).

Tensioner pulleys - 1998 cc 16-valve
models

86 Refit the rear tensioner pulley to its
mounting stud, and fit the retaining bolt. Align
the front pulley backplate with its holes, and
refit both its retaining bolts. Tighten all
retaining bolts finger-tight only, so that both
tensioners are free to pivot.
87 Tension the timing belt (see Section 7).
88 Once the belt is correctly tensioned, refit
the timing belt cover (see Section 6).

9

Camshaft oil seal(s) - renewal

4

Note: If the camshaft oil seal is to be renewed
with the timing belt still in place, check first
that the belt is free from oil contamination.
(Renew the belt as a matter of course if signs
of oil contamination are found; see Section 7.)
Cover the belt, to protect it from
contamination by oil while work is in progress.
If the timing belt is removed, ensure that all
traces of oil are removed from the area before
the belt is refitted.
1 Remove the camshaft sprocket(s) as
described in Section 8.
2 Punch or drill two small holes opposite
each other in the oil seal. Screw a self-tapping
screw into each, and pull on the screws with
pliers to extract the seal.
3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean
engine oil, and drive it into position until it
seats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitable
tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears
only on the hard outer edge of the seal. Take
care not to damage the seal lips during fitting.
Note that the seal lips should face inwards.
5 Refit the camshaft sprocket(s) as described
in Section 8.

10 Camshaft and followers -

removal, inspection and
refitting

4

Removal

1 Remove the battery and its mounting tray
as described in Chapter 5A.

2 Remove the cylinder head cover and gasket
as described in Section 4.

1905 cc 16-valve models

3 Unbolt the plastic cover from over the
power steering pump drive pulley.
4 Disconnect the drivebelt from the power
steering drive pulley with reference to 
Chapter 1.
5 Unscrew the bolt and remove the pulley
from the end of the exhaust camshaft.
6 Remove both camshaft sprockets as
described in Section 8.
7 Remove the distributor cap and rotor arm
with reference to Chapter 5A. 
8 Unbolt and remove the rotor arm support
and the sealing disc.
9 Unbolt the inner timing belt cover from the
side of the cylinder head.
10 Carefully ease the oil supply pipe out from
the top of the camshaft bearing caps, and
remove it. Note the O-ring seals fitted to each
of the pipe unions.
11 Turn each camshaft so that the sprocket
key grooves are approximately at the 3
o’clock position.
12 Evenly and progressively slacken the
camshaft bearing cap retaining screws by one
turn at a time. This will relieve the valve spring
pressure on the bearing caps gradually and
evenly. Once the pressure has been relieved,
the bolts can be fully unscrewed and
removed.
13 Lift off the bearing caps, noting the
correct fitted location of the locating dowels.
If the dowels are a loose fit, remove them and
store them with the bearing caps for safe-
keeping.
14 Lift the camshafts out of the cylinder
head, and slide the oil seals off the camshaft
ends. Identify each camshaft for position - on
early models the inlet camshaft is identified by
the distributor drive keyway.
15 Obtain sixteen small, clean plastic
containers, and number them 1 to 16. Using a
rubber sucker, withdraw each cam follower in
turn, invert it to prevent oil loss, and place it in
its respective container. The container should
then be filled with clean engine oil. Do not
interchange the cam followers, or the rate of
wear will be much-increased. Do not allow
them to lose oil, or the hydraulic tappet
mechanism will take a long time to refill with
oil on restarting the engine, resulting in
incorrect valve clearances.

1998 cc 16-valve models

16 Remove both camshaft sprockets as
described in Section 8. Where necessary also
remove the vacuum pump from the left-hand
end of the cylinder head.
17 Undo the six bolts securing the inner
timing belt cover to the side of the cylinder
head, and remove the cover from the engine.
18 Carefully ease the oil supply pipe out from
the top of the camshaft bearing caps, and
remove it. Note the O-ring seals fitted to each
of the pipe unions.
19 The camshaft bearing caps should be

2B•14 XU engine in-car repair procedures

numbered 1 to 5, number 1 being at the
transmission end of the engine. If not, make
identification marks on the caps, using white
paint or a suitable marker pen.
20 Working in the reverse of the sequence
shown in illustration 10.54, evenly and
progressively slacken the camshaft bearing
cap retaining screws by one turn at a time.
This will relieve the valve spring pressure on
the bearing caps gradually and evenly. Once
the pressure has been relieved, the bolts can
be fully unscrewed and removed.
21 Lift off the bearing caps, noting the
correct fitted location of the locating dowels.
If the dowels are a loose fit, remove them and
store them with the bearing caps for safe-
keeping.
22 Lift the camshafts out of the cylinder
head, and slide the oil seals off the camshaft
ends. The inlet camshaft can be identified by
the braking system vacuum pump drive slot in
its left-hand end; therefore, there is no need to
mark the camshafts for identification.
23 Obtain sixteen small, clean plastic
containers, and number them 1 to 16. Using a
rubber sucker, withdraw each cam follower in
turn, invert it to prevent oil loss, and place it in
its respective container. The container should
then be filled with clean engine oil. Do not
interchange the cam followers, or the rate of
wear will be much-increased. Do not allow
them to lose oil, or the hydraulic tappet
mechanism will take a long time to refill with
oil on restarting the engine, resulting in
incorrect valve clearances.

All other models

24 Remove the camshaft sprocket as
described in Section 8.
25 On models with a distributor, remove the
distributor as described in Chapter 5. Make
sure the recessed socket-headed screw is
removed from the distributor housing.
26 On models with a carburettor, remove the
fuel pump as described in Chapter 4.
27 On models with a static (distributorless)
ignition system, remove the ignition HT coil as
described in Chapter 5.
28 With the distributor or coil removed (as
applicable), slacken the upper bolt securing
the thermostat housing to the left-hand end of
the cylinder head. Remove the bolt, along with

its sealing washer. This is necessary since the
bolt screws into the left-hand (No 1) camshaft
bearing cap.
29 Carefully ease the oil supply pipe out from
the top of the camshaft bearing caps, and
remove it. Note the O-ring seals fitted to each
of the pipe unions on later models.
30 The camshaft bearing caps should be
numbered 1 to 5, number 1 being at the
transmission end of the engine. If not, make
identification marks on the caps, using white
paint or a suitable marker pen. Also mark
each cap in some way to indicate its correct
fitted orientation. This will avoid the possibility
of installing the caps the wrong way around
on refitting.
31 Evenly and progressively slacken the
camshaft bearing cap retaining nuts by one
turn at a time. This will relieve the valve spring
pressure on the bearing caps gradually and
evenly. Once the pressure has been relieved,
the nuts can be fully unscrewed and removed
(see illustration).
32 Note the correct fitted orientation of the
bearing caps, then remove them from cylinder
head (see illustration).
33 Lift the camshaft away from the cylinder
head, and slide the oil seal off the camshaft
end (see illustration).
34 Obtain eight small, clean plastic
containers, and number them 1 to 8;
alternatively, divide a larger container into
eight compartments. Using a rubber sucker,
withdraw each follower in turn, and place it in
its respective container. Do not interchange
the cam followers, or the rate of wear will be
much-increased. If necessary, also remove
the shim from the top of the valve stem, and
store it with its respective follower. Note that
the shim may stick to the inside of the follower
as it is withdrawn. If this happens, take care
not to allow it to drop out as the follower is
removed.

Inspection

35 Examine the camshaft bearing surfaces
and cam lobes for signs of wear ridges and
scoring. Renew the camshaft if any of these
conditions are apparent. Examine the
condition of the bearing surfaces, both on the
camshaft journals and in the cylinder
head/bearing caps. If the head bearing

surfaces are worn excessively, the cylinder
head will need to be renewed. If suitable
measuring equipment is available, camshaft
bearing journal wear can be checked by direct
measurement (where the necessary specifica-
tions have been quoted by Peugeot), noting
that No 1 journal is at the transmission end of
the head.
36 Examine the cam follower bearing
surfaces which contact the camshaft lobes for
wear ridges and scoring. Renew any follower
on which these conditions are apparent. If a
follower bearing surface is badly scored, also
examine the corresponding lobe on the
camshaft for wear, as it is likely that both will
be worn. Renew worn components as
necessary.
37 On 16-valve models, if the engine’s valve
clearances have sounded noisy, particularly if
the noise persists after initial start-up from
cold, there is reason to suspect a faulty
hydraulic tappet mechanism. Only a good
mechanic experienced in these engines can
tell whether the noise level is typical, or if
renewal of one or more of the tappets is
warranted. If a faulty hydraulic tappet is
diagnosed and the engine’s service history is
unknown, it is always worth trying the effect of
renewing the engine oil and filter before going
to the expense of renewing any of the cam
followers. Use only good-quality engine oil of
the recommended viscosity and specification
(Chapter 1). It is not possible to overhaul the
hydraulic tappet mechanism, so if any
tappet’s operation is faulty, it must be
renewed.
38 On earlier 1580 cc and 1905 cc models,
inspect the camshaft thrust fork (fitted to the
side of No 5 camshaft bearing cap) for signs
of wear or scoring, and if necessary renew it
(see illustrations). The fork is retained by a
single bolt; on refitting, ensure that the bolt is
securely tightened. On later models, the thrust
fork is no longer fitted, and the camshaft
endfloat is controlled by the camshaft bearing
cap.

Refitting

1905 cc 16-valve models

39 Liberally oil the cylinder head cam
follower bores and the followers. Note that, if

XU engine in-car repair procedures  2B•15

10.33  . . . then lift the camshaft away from

the cylinder head

10.32  . . . and remove the camshaft

bearing caps . . .

2B

10.31  Working as described in the text,

unscrew the retaining nuts . . .

new followers are being fitted, they must be
charged with oil before installation by placing
them in a bath of clean engine oil and
“working” them. Carefully refit the followers to
the cylinder head, ensuring that each follower
is refitted to its original bore, where
applicable. Some care will be required to
enter the followers squarely into their bores.
40 Liberally oil the camshaft bearings and
lobes, then refit the camshafts to the cylinder
head. Temporarily refit the Woodruff keys and
sprockets to the end of each camshaft. Set
each camshaft so that the sprocket key
grooves are approximately at the 3 o’clock
position. Also ensure that the crankshaft is
still locked in position (see Section 3).
41 Ensure that the bearing cap locating
dowels are pressed firmly into their recesses.
Check that the mating surfaces are
completely clean, unmarked and free from oil
then apply jointing compound to the contact
surfaces of Nos 1 and 5 caps.. Refit the
bearing caps, using the identification marks
noted on removal to ensure that each is
installed correctly and in its original location.
42 Working in the sequence shown,
progressively tighten the camshaft bearing
cap bolts by one turn at a time, until the caps
touch the cylinder head evenly. Go round
again, working in the same sequence, and
tighten all the bolts to the specified torque
setting. Work only as described, to impose
the pressure of the valve springs gradually
and evenly on the bearing caps.
43 Examine the oil supply pipe union O-rings
for signs of damage or deterioration, and
renew as necessary. Check that the supply
pipe oil spray holes are clear, unblocking
them with a pin if necessary. Apply a smear of
clean engine oil to the O-rings. Ease the pipe
assembly into position in the top of the
bearing caps, taking great care not to
displace the O-rings.
44 Refit the inner timing belt cover to the side
of the cylinder head, and tighten its retaining
bolts to the specified torque.
45 Fit two new camshaft oil seals using the
information given in Section 7.
46 Where applicable, refit the distributor
rotor arm support and sealing disc, rotor arm
and distributor cap - refer to Chapter 5A.
47 Refit the camshaft sprockets as described
in Section 8.

48 Refit the power steering pulley to the end
of the exhaust camshaft and tighten the
retaining bolt, then refit the drivebelt with
reference to Chapter 1.
49 Refit the plastic cover over the power
steering pump drive pulley.
50 Refit the cylinder head cover as described
in Section 4, and the battery and mounting
tray as described in Chapter 5A.

1998 cc 16-valve models

51 Liberally oil the cylinder head cam
follower bores and the followers. Note that, if
new followers are being fitted, they must be
charged with oil before installation by placing
them in a bath of clean engine oil and
“working” them. Carefully refit the followers to
the cylinder head, ensuring that each follower
is refitted to its original bore, where
applicable. Some care will be required to
enter the followers squarely into their bores.
52 Liberally oil the camshaft bearings and
lobes, then refit the camshafts to the cylinder
head. Temporarily refit the Woodruff keys and
sprockets to the end of each camshaft. Set
each camshaft so that its sprocket timing hole
is aligned with the corresponding cutout in the
cylinder head. Also ensure that the crankshaft
is still locked in position (see Section 3).
53 Ensure that the bearing cap locating
dowels are pressed firmly into their recesses.
Check that the mating surfaces are
completely clean, unmarked and free from oil.
Refit the bearing caps, using the identification
marks noted on removal to ensure that each is
installed correctly and in its original location.

54 Working in the sequence shown,
progressively tighten the camshaft bearing
cap bolts by one turn at a time, until the caps
touch the cylinder head evenly. Go round
again, working in the same sequence, and
tighten all the bolts to the specified torque
setting  (see illustration). Work only as
described, to impose the pressure of the valve
springs gradually and evenly on the bearing
caps.
55 Examine the oil supply pipe union O-rings
for signs of damage or deterioration, and
renew as necessary. Check that the supply
pipe oil spray holes are clear, unblocking
them with a pin if necessary. Apply a smear of
clean engine oil to the O-rings. Ease the pipe
assembly into position in the top of the
bearing caps, taking great care not to
displace the O-rings (see illustration).
56 Refit the inner timing belt cover to the side
of the cylinder head, and tighten its retaining
bolts to the specified torque.
57 Fit two new camshaft oil seals using the
information given in Section 7, then refit the
camshaft sprockets as described in Section 8.
Where necessary refit the vacuum pump to
the left-hand end of the cylinder head.
58 Refit the cylinder head cover as described
in Section 4, and reconnect the battery
negative terminal.

All other models

59 Where removed, refit each shim to the top
of its original valve stem. Do not interchange
the shims, as this will upset the valve
clearances (see Section 11).
60 Liberally oil the cylinder head cam
follower bores and the followers. Carefully
refit the followers to the cylinder head,
ensuring that each follower is refitted to its
original bore. Some care will be required to
enter the followers squarely into their bores.
61 Liberally oil the camshaft bearings and
lobes, then refit the camshaft to the cylinder
head. Temporarily refit the sprocket to the end
of the shaft, and position it so that the
sprocket timing hole is aligned with the
corresponding cutout in the cylinder head.
Also ensure that the crankshaft is still locked
in position (see Section 3).
62 Ensure that the bearing cap and head
mating surfaces are completely clean,

10.55  Take care not to displace the 

O-rings when refitting the oil supply pipe

to the camshaft bearing caps

2B•16 XU engine in-car repair procedures

10.38a  On early 1580 cc and 1905 cc

models, slacken the retaining bolt . . .

10.54  Camshaft bearing cap bolt

tightening sequence - 

1998 cc 16-valve models

10.38b  . . . and remove the camshaft

thrust fork from the bearing cap

unmarked, and free from oil. Refit the bearing
caps, using the identification marks noted on
removal to ensure that each is installed
correctly and in its original location.
63 Evenly and progressively tighten the
camshaft bearing cap nuts by one turn at a
time until the caps touch the cylinder head.
Then go round again and tighten all the nuts
to the specified torque setting. Work only as
described, to impose the pressure of the valve
springs gradually and evenly on the bearing
caps.
64 Refit the oil supply pipe to the top of the
bearing caps. Note that there are no seals
fitted to the pipe fittings on early models,
however later versions are fitted with seals.
Where applicable, examine the oil supply pipe
union O-rings for signs of damage or
deterioration, and renew as necessary. Apply
a smear of clean engine oil to the O-rings
before refitting the pipe (see illustration).
65 Examine the sealing washer for signs of
damage or deterioration, and renew it if
necessary. Refit the upper retaining bolt to the
thermostat housing, tightening it to the
specified torque setting.
66 On models with a distributor, refit the
distributor as described in Chapter 5.
67 On models with a static (distributorless)
ignition system, refit the ignition HT coil as
described in Chapter 5.
68 On models with a carburettor, refit the fuel
pump with reference to Chapter 4.
69 Fit a new camshaft oil seal, using the
information given in Section 9, then refit the
camshaft sprocket as described in Section 8.
70 Refit the cylinder head cover as described
in Section 4, then refit the battery and
mounting tray with reference to Chapter 5A.

11 Valve clearances - checking

and adjustment

3

Checking

16-valve models

1 On 1905 cc and 1998 cc 16-valve models,
the valve clearances are automatically
adjusted by the hydraulic tappet mechanism

fitted to each cam follower. Therefore it is not
necessary, or indeed possible, to check or
adjust the valve clearances manually. If the
valve gear has become noisy, a faulty tappet
mechanism should be suspected. Refer to
Section 10 for further information.

All other models

2 On these models, the importance of having
the valve clearances correctly adjusted
cannot be overstressed, as they vitally affect
the performance of the engine. Checking
should not be regarded as a routine operation,
however. It should only be necessary when
the valve gear has become noisy, after engine
overhaul, or when trying to trace the cause of
power loss. The clearances are checked as
follows. The engine must be cold for the
check to be accurate.
3 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the car and support it on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the
right-hand front roadwheel.
4 From underneath the front of the car, prise
out the two retaining clips, and remove the
plastic cover from the wing valance to gain
access to the crankshaft sprocket bolt. Where
necessary, unclip the coolant hoses from the
bracket to improve access further.
5 The engine can now be turned over using a
suitable socket and extension bar fitted to the
crankshaft pulley bolt.
6 Remove the cylinder head cover as
described in Section 4.
7 Draw the outline of the engine on a piece of
paper, numbering the cylinders 1 to 4, with 
No 1 cylinder at the transmission end of the
engine. Show the position of each valve,
together with the specified valve clearance
(see paragraph 11). Above each valve, draw
two lines for noting (1) the actual clearance
and (2) the amount of adjustment required
(see illustration).
8 Turn the crankshaft until the inlet valve of
No 1 cylinder (nearest the transmission end) is

fully closed, with the tip of the cam facing
directly away from the cam follower.
9 Using feeler blades, measure the clearance
between the base of the cam and the follower
(see illustration). Record the clearance on
line (1).
10 Repeat the measurement for the other
seven valves, turning the crankshaft as
necessary so that the cam lobe in question is
always facing directly away from the relevant
follower.
11 Calculate the difference between each
measured clearance and the desired value,
and record it on line (2). Since the clearance is
different for inlet and exhaust valves, make
sure that you are aware which valve you are
dealing with. The valve sequence from either
end of the engine is:

Ex - In - In - Ex - Ex - In - In - Ex

12 If all the clearances are within tolerance,
refit the cylinder head cover with reference to
Section 4. Clip the coolant hoses into position
(if removed) and refit the plastic cover to the
wing valance. Refit the roadwheel, and lower
the vehicle to the ground.
13 If any clearance measured is outside the
specified tolerance, adjustment must be
carried out as described in the following
paragraphs.

Adjustment

16-valve models

14 See paragraph 1.

All other models

15 Remove the camshaft as described in
Section 10.
16 Withdraw the first follower from the
cylinder head, and recover the shim from the
top of the valve stem. Note that the shim may
stick to the inside of the follower as it is
withdrawn. If this happens, take care not to
allow it to drop out as the follower is removed.
Remove all traces of oil from the shim, and
measure its thickness with a micrometer (see
illustrations). The shims usually carry
thickness markings, but wear may have
reduced the original thickness.
17 Refer to the clearance recorded for the
valve concerned. If the clearance was more
than that specified, the shim thickness must
be increased by the difference recorded (2). If

XU engine in-car repair procedures  2B•17

11.7  Example of valve shim thickness

calculation

I  Inlet
E  Exhaust
1  Measured clearance
2  Difference between 1 and 3
3  Specified clearance
4  Thickness of original shim fitted
5  Thickness of new shim required

11.9  Measuring a valve clearance 

using a feeler blade

10.64  Early supply pipe (A) without seals

and later pipe (B) with seals

2B

the clearance was less than that specified, the
thickness of the shim must be decreased by
the difference recorded (2).
18 Draw three more lines beneath each valve
on the calculation paper, as shown in
illustration 11.7. On line (4), note the
measured thickness of the shim, then add or
deduct the difference from line (2) to give the
final shim thickness required on line (5).
19 Shims are available in thicknesses
between 2.225 mm and 3.550 mm, in steps of
0.025 mm. Clean new shims before
measuring or fitting them.
20 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs
16 to 18 on the remaining valves, keeping
each follower identified for position.
21 When reassembling, oil the shim, and fit it
on the valve stem with the size marking face
downwards. Oil the follower, and lower it onto
the shim. Do not raise the follower after fitting,
as the shim may become dislodged.
22 When all the followers are in position,
complete with their shims, refit the camshaft
as described in Section 10. Recheck the valve
clearances before refitting the cylinder head
cover.

12 Cylinder head -

removal and refitting

4

Removal

1 Remove the battery and its mounting tray
with reference to Chapter 5A.
2 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.
3 Align the engine assembly/valve timing
holes as described in Section 3, locking both
the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft pulley
in position, and proceed as described under
the relevant sub-heading. Do not attempt to
rotate the engine whilst the pins are in
position.

8-valve engines

4 Remove the cylinder head cover as
described in Section 4, and remove the air
cleaner mounting bracket from the rear of
cylinder head.
5 Note that the following text assumes that
the cylinder head will be removed with both

inlet and exhaust manifolds attached; this is
easier, but makes it a bulky and heavy
assembly to handle. If it is wished first to
remove the manifolds, proceed as described
in Chapter 4.
6 Working as described in Chapter 4,
disconnect the exhaust system front pipe
from the manifold. Where necessary,
disconnect or release the lambda sensor
wiring, so that it is not strained by the weight
of the exhaust.
7 Disconnect the following according to
model, as described in Chapter 4:

a) On fuel injection models, depressurise the

fuel system, and disconnect the fuel feed
and return hoses. Plug all openings, to
prevent loss of fuel and the entry of dirt
into the system.

b) On carburettor models remove the

carburettor and disconnect the fuel hoses
from the fuel pump.

c) Disconnect the accelerator cable.
d) Disconnect the vacuum servo unit

vacuum hose, coolant hose and all the
other relevant vacuum/breather hoses,
from the inlet manifold and on fuel
injection models the throttle
body/housing.

e) Undo the retaining nut, and position the

oil filler neck clear of the inlet manifold.

f) On fuel injection models, disconnect the

three electrical connector plugs from the
throttle body.

g) On fuel injection models, disconnect the

wiring connectors from the throttle
potentiometer and the fuel injectors, and
free the wiring loom from the manifold.

h) Where necessary, remove the idle speed

auxiliary air valve.

8 Slacken the retaining clips, and disconnect
the coolant hoses from the thermostat
housing (on the left-hand end of the cylinder
head).
9 Depress the retaining clip(s), and
disconnect the wiring connector(s) from the
electrical switch(es) and/or sensor(s) which
are screwed into the thermostat housing, or
into the left-hand end of the cylinder head (as
appropriate).
10 Refer to Section 8 and disconnect the
timing belt from the camshaft sprocket; if
preferred, completely remove the timing belt.

11 Jack up the front of the car and support
on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”).
12 Unscrew and remove the horizontal bolt
from the engine rear mounting link beneath
the rear of the engine.
13 Place a jack beneath the engine, with a
block of wood on the jack head. Raise the
jack until it is supporting the weight of the
engine.
14 Slacken and remove the three nuts
securing the engine/transmission right-hand
mounting bracket to the engine bracket.
Remove the single nut securing the bracket to
the mounting rubber, and lift off the bracket.
Undo the three bolts securing the engine
bracket to the end of the cylinder head/block,
and remove the bracket.
15 On models with a distributor, disconnect
the wiring connector from the ignition HT coil.
If the cylinder head is to be dismantled for
overhaul, remove the distributor as described
in the relevant Sections of Chapter 5.
Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs,
and remove the distributor cap and lead
assembly. If the cylinder numbers are not
already marked on the HT leads, number each
lead, to avoid the possibility of the leads being
incorrectly connected on refitting.
16 On models with a static (distributorless)
ignition system, disconnect the wiring
connector from the ignition HT coil. If the
cylinder head is to be dismantled for overhaul,
remove the ignition HT coil as described in
Chapter 5. Note that the HT leads should be
disconnected from the spark plugs instead of
the coil, and the coil and leads removed as an
assembly. If the cylinder numbers are not
already marked on the HT leads, number each
lead, to avoid the possibility of the leads being
incorrectly connected on refitting.
17 Working in the reverse of the tightening
sequence, progressively slacken the ten
cylinder head bolts by half a turn at a time,
until all bolts can be unscrewed by hand.
Remove the bolts along with their washers,
noting the correct location of the spacer fitted
to the front left-hand bolt.
18 With all the cylinder head bolts removed,
the joint between the cylinder head and
gasket and the cylinder block/crankcase must
now be broken without disturbing the wet
liners. Care must be taken on 1508 cc, 1761
cc and 1905 cc engines to prevent
displacement of the wet liners; although these
liners are better-located and sealed than
some wet-liner engines, there is still a risk of
coolant and foreign matter leaking into the
sump if the cylinder head is lifted carelessly. If
care is not taken and the liners are moved,
there is also a possibility of the bottom seals
being disturbed, causing leakage after
refitting the head. This problem does not
apply to 1998 cc engines as the liners are
conventional and form part of the cylinder
block.
19 To break the joint, obtain two L-shaped
metal bars which fit into the cylinder head bolt

2B•18 XU engine in-car repair procedures

11.16a  Lift out the follower and remove

the shim (arrowed)

11.16b  Using a micrometer to measure

shim thickness