Peugeot 405 Haynes (petrol). Manual - part 10

holes, and gently “rock” the cylinder head free
towards the front of the car (see Part A). On
wet liner engines, do not try to swivel the head
on the cylinder block/crankcase; it is located
by dowels, as well as by the tops of the liners.
20 When the joint is broken, lift the cylinder
head away. Seek assistance if possible, as it
is a heavy assembly, especially if it is
complete with the manifolds. Remove the
gasket from the top of the block, noting the
two locating dowels. If the locating dowels are
a loose fit, remove them and store them with
the head for safe-keeping. Do not discard the
gasket; it will be needed for identification
purposes.
21 On wet liner engines, do not attempt to
turn the crankshaft with the cylinder head
removed, otherwise the wet liners may be
displaced. Operations that require the
crankshaft to be turned (eg cleaning the
piston crowns), should only be carried out
once the cylinder liners are firmly clamped in
position. In the absence of the special
Peugeot liner clamps, the liners can be
clamped in position as follows. Use large flat
washers positioned underneath suitable-
length bolts, or temporarily refit the original
head bolts, with suitable spacers fitted to their
shanks (see illustration).
22 If the cylinder head is to be dismantled for
overhaul, remove the camshaft as described
in Section 10, then refer to Part C of this
Chapter.

1905 cc 16-valve engines

23 Remove the cylinder head cover as
described in Section 4. Also remove the air
cleaner inlet ducting.
24 Unbolt the plastic cover from over the
power steering pump drive pulley.
25 Disconnect the drivebelt from the power
steering drive pulley with reference to 
Chapter 1.
26 Unscrew the bolt and remove the pulley
from the end of the exhaust camshaft.
27 Identify all wiring connections on the
cylinder head then disconnect them. Also
disconnect the coolant hoses from the head.
28 Remove the ignition coil as described in
Chapter 5.
29 Remove the inlet manifold as described in
Chapter 4. To prevent damage to the radiator,
position a piece of cardboard over it. On

models with air conditioning, disconnect the
associated wiring from the inlet manifold.
30 Working as described in Chapter 4,
disconnect the exhaust system front pipe
from the manifold.
31 Place a jack beneath the engine, with a
block of wood on the jack head. Raise the
jack until it is supporting the weight of the
engine.
32 Remove the right-hand engine mounting
bracket with reference to Section 18.
33 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7.
34 Working in the reverse of the tightening
sequence, progressively slacken the ten
cylinder head bolts by half a turn at a time,
until all bolts can be unscrewed by hand.
Remove the bolts along with their washers,
noting the correct location of the spacer fitted
to the front left-hand bolt.
35 Release the end of the timing belt cover
from the coolant pump using a screwdriver.
36 With all the cylinder head bolts removed,
the joint between the cylinder head and
gasket and the cylinder block/crankcase must
now be broken without disturbing the wet
liners. Care must be taken to prevent
displacement of the wet liners. Although these
liners are better-located and sealed than
some wet-liner engines, there is still a risk of
coolant and foreign matter leaking into the
sump if the cylinder head is lifted carelessly. If
care is not taken and the liners are moved,
there is also a possibility of the bottom seals
being disturbed, causing leakage after
refitting the head.
37 To break the joint, obtain two L-shaped
metal bars which fit into the cylinder head bolt
holes, and gently “rock” the cylinder head free
towards the front of the car (see Part A). Do
not try to swivel the head on the cylinder
block/crankcase; it is located by dowels, as
well as by the tops of the liners. Take care not
to damage the oil supply tubes when inserting
the metal bars - if necessary remove the tubes
first.
38 When the joint is broken, lift the cylinder
head away. Seek assistance if possible, as it
is a heavy assembly. Remove the gasket from
the top of the block, noting the two locating
dowels. If the locating dowels are a loose fit,
remove them and store them with the head for
safe-keeping. Do not discard the gasket; it will
be needed for identification purposes.
39 Do not attempt to turn the crankshaft with
the cylinder head removed, otherwise the wet
liners may be displaced. Operations that
require the crankshaft to be turned (eg
cleaning the piston crowns), should only be
carried out once the cylinder liners are firmly
clamped in position. In the absence of the
special Peugeot liner clamps, the liners can
be clamped in position as follows. Use large
flat washers positioned underneath suitable-
length bolts, or temporarily refit the original
head bolts, with suitable spacers fitted to their
shanks.
40 If the cylinder head is to be dismantled for

overhaul, remove the camshafts as described
in Section 10, then refer to Part C of this
Chapter.

1998 cc 16-valve engines

41 The procedure is similar to that for the
1905 cc 16-valve engine described above,
except for the following.

a) Where necessary remove both camshafts

at the beginning of the procedure as
described in Section 10.

b) When removing the inlet manifold,

disconnect the ACAV assembly with
reference to Chapter 4.

c) Unbolt the oil dipstick tube from the

cylinder head.

d) The 1998 cc 16-valve engine has dry

liners, and therefore all references to, and
precautions for, wet liners can be ignored.

Preparation for refitting

42 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block/crankcase must be perfectly
clean before refitting the head. Use a hard
plastic or wooden scraper to remove all traces
of gasket and carbon; also clean the piston
crowns. On ‘wet’ liner engines, refer to
paragraph 36 before turning the engine. Take
particular care on these models, as the soft
aluminium alloy is easily damaged. On all
models, make sure that the carbon is not
allowed to enter the oil and water passages -
this is particularly important for the lubrication
system, as carbon could block the oil supply
to the engine’s components. Using adhesive
tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt
holes in the cylinder block/crankcase. To
prevent carbon entering the gap between the
pistons and bores, smear a little grease in the
gap. After cleaning each piston, use a small
brush to remove all traces of grease and
carbon from the gap, then wipe away the
remainder with a clean rag. Clean all the
pistons in the same way.
43 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block/crankcase and the cylinder head for
nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If
slight, they may be removed carefully with a
file, but if excessive, machining may be the
only alternative to renewal. If warpage of the
cylinder head gasket surface is suspected,
use a straight-edge to check it for distortion.
Refer to Part C of this Chapter if necessary.
44 On ‘wet’ liner engines, check the cylinder
liner protrusion as described in Part C of this
Chapter.

Cylinder head gasket and head bolt
information - 1580 cc, 1761 cc and
1905 cc models

45 On these models (aluminium cylinder
block, wet-liner type engine) when purchasing
a new cylinder head gasket, it is essential that
a gasket of the correct thickness is obtained.
There are two different thicknesses available,
the standard (1.2 mm) gasket which is fitted at
the factory, and a slightly thicker (1.4 mm)
gasket, for use once the head gasket face has
been machined. The two gaskets can be

XU engine in-car repair procedures  2B•19

2B

12.21  Cylinder liners clamped in position

using suitable bolts and large flat washers

identified as follows, by the holes in the tab on
the left-hand end of the gasket.
46 With the gasket fitted the correct way up
on the cylinder block, there will be a either a
single hole, or series of holes, punched in the
tab on the left-hand end of the gasket. The
standard (1.2 mm) gasket has only one hole
punched in it; the slightly thicker (1.4 mm)
gasket has either two or three holes punched
in it, depending on its manufacturer. Identify
the gasket type, and ensure that the new
gasket obtained is of the correct thickness. If
there is any doubt as to which gasket is fitted,
take the old gasket along to your Peugeot
dealer, and have the dealer confirm the gasket
type.
47 Check the condition of the cylinder head
bolts, and particularly their threads, whenever
they are removed. Wash the bolts in a suitable
solvent, and wipe them dry. Check each bolt
for any sign of visible wear or damage,
renewing them if necessary. Measure the
length of each bolt (without the washer fitted),
from the underside of its head to the end of
the bolt. If all bolts are less than 176.5 mm,
they may be re-used. However, if any one bolt
is longer than the specified length, all of the
bolts should be renewed as a complete set.
Considering the stress which the cylinder
head bolts are under, it is hightly
recommended that they are renewed,
regardless of their apparent condition.

Cylinder head gasket and head bolt
information - 1998 cc 8-valve and 
16-valve models

48 On 1998 cc models (cast-iron cylinder
block without separate liners) there is only one
thickness of head gasket available. The holes
described above are still punched into the
left-hand end of the gasket, but are of little
importance, as they only identify the gasket
manufacturer.
49 Check the condition of the cylinder head
bolts, and particularly their threads, whenever
they are removed. Wash the bolts in a suitable
solvent, and wipe them dry. Check each bolt
for any sign of visible wear or damage,
renewing them if necessary. Measure the
length of each bolt (without the washer fitted),
from the underside of its head to the end of
the bolt. If all bolts are less than 122.0 mm,
they may be re-used. However, if any one bolt
is longer than the specified length, all of the
bolts should be renewed as a complete set.
Considering the stress which the cylinder
head bolts are under, it is hightly
recommended that they are renewed,
regardless of their apparent condition.

Refitting

50 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the
cylinder head and cylinder block/crankcase.
Check that the two locating dowels are in
position at each end of the cylinder
block/crankcase surface. Where applicable,
remove the cylinder liner clamps.
51 Position a new gasket on the cylinder

block/crankcase surface, ensuring that its
identification holes and tongue are at the left-
hand end of the gasket.

8-valve engines

52 Where removed refit the camshaft
(Section 10), then check that the crankshaft
pulley and camshaft sprocket are still locked
in position with their respective pins. With the
aid of an assistant, carefully refit the cylinder
head assembly to the block, aligning it with
the locating dowels.
53 Apply a smear of grease to the threads,
and to the underside of the heads, of the
cylinder head bolts. Peugeot recommend
Molykote G.RAPID PLUS grease (available
from your Peugeot dealer); in the absence of
the specified grease, any good-quality high-
melting-point grease may be used.
54 Carefully enter each bolt and washer into
its relevant hole (do not drop it in) and screw it
in finger-tight, not forgetting to fit the spacer
to the front left-hand bolt.
55 Working progressively and in the
sequence shown, tighten the cylinder head
bolts to their stage 1 torque setting, using a
torque wrench and suitable socket (see
illustration).
56 On 1508 cc, 1761 cc and 1905 cc
engines, working bolt by bolt and in the
specified sequence,  fully slacken the bolt
then tighten it to its stage 2 torque setting
followed by its stage 3 angle. It is
recommended that an angle-measuring
gauge is used during the stage 3 tightening, to
ensure accuracy. If a gauge is not available,
use white paint to make alignment marks
between the bolt head and cylinder head prior
to tightening; the marks can then be used to
check that the bolt has rotated sufficiently.
57 On 1998 cc engines, working in the
correct sequence tighten all of the bolts to 
the stage 2 torque. With all the bolts at the
stage 2 torque, angle-tighten the bolts to the
stage 3 angle in the correct sequence using
the gauge described in the previous
paragraph.
58 Once the cylinder head bolts are correctly
tightened, fill the four oil reservoir holes in the
cylinder head (below the camshaft) with fresh
engine oil.
59 Reconnect the wiring connector to the
ignition HT coil. Otherwise, if the head was

stripped for overhaul, refit the HT coil or
distributor (as applicable), as described in
Chapter 5.
60 Refit and tension the timing belt with
reference to Section 8.
61 Refit the right-hand engine mounting and
tighten the bolts to the specified torque. The
jack can then be removed from under the
engine.
62 The remaining procedure is a reversal of
removal noting the following points.

a) Ensure that all wiring is correctly routed,

and that all connectors are securely
reconnected to the correct components.

b) Ensure that the coolant hoses are

correctly reconnected, and that their
retaining clips are securely tightened.

c) Ensure that all vacuum/breather hoses are

correctly reconnected.

d) Refit the cylinder head cover as described

in Section 4.

e) Reconnect the exhaust system to the

manifold, refit the air cleaner housing and
ducts, and adjust the accelerator cable,
as described in Chapter 4. If the
manifolds were removed, refit these as
described in Chapter 4.

f) On completion, refill the cooling system

as described in Chapter 1, and reconnect
the battery.

1905 cc 16-valve engines

63 Where removed refit the camshafts
(Section 10), then check that the crankshaft
pulley and camshaft sprockets are still locked
in position with their respective pins. With the
aid of an assistant, carefully refit the cylinder
head assembly to the block, aligning it with
the locating dowels.
64 Apply a smear of grease to the threads,
and to the underside of the heads, of the
cylinder head bolts. Peugeot recommend the
use of Molykote G.RAPID PLUS grease
(available from your Peugeot dealer); in the
absence of the specified grease, any good-
quality high-melting-point grease may be
used.
65 Carefully enter each bolt and washer into
its relevant hole (do not drop it in) and screw it
in finger-tight, not forgetting to fit the spacer
to the front left-hand bolt.
66 Working progressively and in the
sequence shown, tighten the cylinder head
bolts to their stage 1 torque setting, using a
torque wrench and suitable socket.
67 Working bolt by bolt and in the specified
sequence,  fully slacken the bolt then tighten it
to its stage 2 torque setting followed by its
stage 3 angle. It is recommended that an
angle-measuring gauge is used during the
stage 3 tightening, to ensure accuracy. If a
gauge is not available, use white paint to
make alignment marks between the bolt head
and cylinder head prior to tightening; the
marks can then be used to check that the bolt
has rotated sufficiently.
68 Refit and tension the timing belt with
reference to Section 8.

2B•20 XU engine in-car repair procedures

12.55  Cylinder head bolt tightening

sequence

69 Refit the right-hand engine mounting and
tighten the bolts to the specified torque. The
jack can then be removed from under the
engine.
70 The remaining procedure is a reversal of
removal noting the following points.

a) Ensure that all wiring is correctly routed,

and that all connectors are securely
reconnected to the correct components.

b) Ensure that the coolant hoses are

correctly reconnected, and that their
retaining clips are securely tightened.

c) Ensure that all vacuum/breather hoses are

correctly reconnected.

d) Refit the cylinder head cover as described

in Section 4.

e) Reconnect the exhaust system to the

manifold, refit the air cleaner housing and
ducts, and refit the manifolds as
described in Chapter 4.

f) Reconnect the power steering drive pulley

and drivebelt with reference to Chapter 1.

g) On completion, refill the cooling system

as described in Chapter 1, and reconnect
the battery.

1998 cc 16-valve models

71 The procedure is similar to that for the
1905 cc 16-valve engine described above, but
refer also to paragraph 40.

13 Sump - removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit the
engine oil drain plug, tightening it securely. If
the engine is nearing its service interval when
the oil and filter are due for renewal, it is
recommended that the filter is also removed,
and a new one fitted. After reassembly, the
engine can then be refilled with fresh oil. Refer
to Chapter 1 for further information.
3 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
4 On models with air conditioning, where the
compressor is mounted onto the side of the
sump, remove the drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1. Unbolt the compressor, and position
it clear of the sump. Support the weight of the
compressor by tying it to the vehicle, to prevent
any excess strain being placed on the
compressor lines. Do not disconnect the
refrigerant lines from the compressor (refer to
the warnings given in Chapter 3).
5 Where necessary, disconnect the wiring
connector from the oil temperature sender
unit, which is screwed into the sump.
6 Progressively slacken and remove all the
sump retaining bolts. Since the sump bolts
vary in length, remove each bolt in turn, and
store it in its correct fitted order by pushing it
through a clearly-marked cardboard template.

This will avoid the possibility of installing the
bolts in the wrong locations on refitting.
7 Break the joint by striking the sump with the
palm of your hand. Lower the sump, and
withdraw it from underneath the vehicle.
Remove the gasket (where fitted), and discard
it; a new one must be used on refitting.
8 While the sump is removed, take the
opportunity to check the oil pump pick-
up/strainer for signs of clogging or splitting. If
necessary, remove the pump as described in
Section 14, and clean or renew the strainer.
9 On some models fitted with the 1905 cc 
16-valve engine, a large spacer plate is fitted
between the sump and the base of the
cylinder block/crankcase. If this plate is fitted,
undo the two retaining screws from
diagonally-opposite corners of the plate.
Remove the plate from the base of the engine,
noting which way round it is fitted.

Refitting

10 Clean all traces of sealant/gasket from the
mating surfaces of the cylinder
block/crankcase and sump, then use a clean
rag to wipe out the sump and the engine’s
interior.
11 Where a spacer plate is fitted, remove all
traces of sealant/gasket from the spacer
plate, then apply a thin coating of suitable
sealant to the plate upper mating surface (see
illustrations). Offer up the plate to the base of
the cylinder block/crankcase, and securely
tighten its retaining screws.
12 On models where the sump was fitted
without a gasket (cast-aluminium sump),
ensure that the sump mating surfaces are
clean and dry, then apply a thin coating of
suitable silicone sealant to the sump mating
surface.
13 On models where the sump was fitted
with a gasket (pressed-steel sump), ensure
that all traces of the old gasket have been
removed, and that the sump mating surfaces
are clean and dry. Position the new gasket on
the top of the sump, using a dab of grease to
hold it in position.
14 Offer up the sump to the cylinder
block/crankcase. Refit its retaining bolts,
ensuring that each is screwed into its original
location. Tighten the bolts evenly and
progressively to the specified torque setting.

15 Where necessary, align the air
conditioning compressor with its mountings
on the sump, and insert the retaining bolts.
Securely tighten the compressor retaining
bolts, then refit the drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1.
16 Reconnect the wiring connector to the oil
temperature sensor (where fitted).
17 Lower the vehicle to the ground, then refill
the engine with oil as described in Chapter 1.

14 Oil pump - removal,

inspection and refitting

3

Removal

1 Remove the sump (see Section 13).
2 Where necessary, undo the two retaining
screws, and slide the sprocket cover off the
front of the oil pump.
3 Slacken and remove the three bolts
securing the oil pump to the base of the
cylinder block/crankcase. Disengage the
pump sprocket from the chain, and remove
the oil pump (see illustration). Where
necessary, also remove the spacer plate
which is fitted behind the oil pump.

Inspection

4 Examine the oil pump sprocket for signs of
damage and wear, such as chipped or
missing teeth. If the sprocket is worn, the
pump assembly must be renewed, since the
sprocket is not available separately. It is also
recommended that the chain and drive

XU engine in-car repair procedures  2B•21

14.3  Removing the oil pump

13.11b  . . . then refit the plate to the base

of the cylinder block/crankcase

13.11a  Where a sump spacer plate is

fitted, apply a coat of suitable sealant to

the plate upper surface . . .

2B

sprocket, fitted to the crankshaft, be renewed
at the same time. To renew the chain and
drive sprocket, first remove the crankshaft
timing belt sprocket as described in Section 8.
Unbolt the oil seal carrier from the cylinder
block. The sprocket and chain can then be
slid off the end of the crankshaft. Refer to Part
C for further information.
5 Slacken and remove the bolts (along with
the baffle plate, where fitted) securing the
strainer cover to the pump body. Lift off the
strainer cover, and take off the relief valve
piston and spring, noting which way round
they are fitted (see illustrations).
6 Examine the pump rotors and body for
signs of wear ridges or scoring. If worn, the
complete pump assembly must be renewed.
7 Examine the relief valve piston for signs of
wear or damage, and renew if necessary. The
condition of the relief valve spring can only be
measured by comparing it with a new one; if
there is any doubt about its condition, it
should also be renewed. Both the piston and
spring are available individually.
8 Thoroughly clean the oil pump strainer with
a suitable solvent, and check it for signs of
clogging or splitting. If the strainer is
damaged, the strainer and cover assembly
must be renewed.
9 Locate the relief valve spring and piston in
the strainer cover. Refit the cover to the pump
body, aligning the relief valve piston with its
bore in the pump. Refit the baffle plate (where
fitted) and the cover retaining bolts, and
tighten them securely.

Refitting

10 Offer up the spacer plate (where fitted),
then locate the pump sprocket with its drive
chain. Seat the pump on the base of the
cylinder block/crankcase. Refit the pump
retaining bolts, and tighten them to the
specified torque setting.
11 Where necessary, slide the sprocket
cover into position on the pump. Refit its
retaining bolts, tightening them securely.
12 Refit the sump as described in Section 13.

15 Oil cooler -

removal and refitting

2

Note: The oil cooler is not fitted to all models.

Removal

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1. Alternatively, clamp the oil cooler
coolant hoses directly above the cooler, and
be prepared for some coolant loss as the
hoses are disconnected.
3 Position a suitable container beneath the oil
filter. Unscrew the filter using an oil filter
removal tool if necessary, and drain the oil
into the container. If the oil filter is damaged or
distorted during removal, it must be renewed.
Given the low cost of a new oil filter relative to
the cost of repairing the damage which could
result if a re-used filter springs a leak, it is
probably a good idea to renew the filter in any
case.
4 Release the hose clips, and disconnect the
coolant hoses from the oil cooler.
5 Unscrew the oil cooler/oil filter mounting
bolt from the cylinder block, and withdraw the
cooler. Note the locating notch in the cooler
flange, which fits over the lug on the cylinder
block (see illustration). Discard the oil cooler
sealing ring; a new one must be used on
refitting.

Refitting

6 Fit a new sealing ring to the recess in the
rear of the cooler, then offer the cooler to the
cylinder block.
7 Ensure that the locating notch in the cooler
flange is correctly engaged with the lug on the
cylinder block, then refit the mounting bolt
and tighten it securely.
8 Fit the oil filter, then lower the vehicle to the
ground. Top-up the engine oil (refer to
“Weekly Checks”).
9 Refill or top-up the cooling system (as
applicable) -see Chapter 1. Start the engine,
and check the oil cooler for signs of leakage.

16 Crankshaft oil seals - renewal

4

Right-hand oil seal

1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and
flanged spacer as described in Section 8.
Secure the timing belt clear of the working
area, so that it cannot be contaminated with
oil. Make a note of the correct fitted depth of
the seal in its housing.
2 Punch or drill two small holes opposite each
other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping screw
into each, and pull on the screws with pliers to
extract the seal (see illustration). The seal can
also be levered out. Use a flat-bladed
screwdriver, but take care not to damage the
crankshaft shoulder or seal housing.

2B•22 XU engine in-car repair procedures

14.5a  Remove the oil pump cover

retaining bolts . . .

14.5c  . . . and relief valve piston, noting

which way round it is fitted

16.2  Using a self-tapping screw and pliers

to remove the crankshaft oil seal

15.5  Oil cooler/oil filter mounting bolt (A)

and locating notch (B)

14.5b  . . . then lift off the cover and

remove the spring . . .

3 Clean the seal housing, and be sure to
polish off any burrs or raised edges, which
may have caused the seal to fail in the first
place.
4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean
engine oil, and carefully locate the seal on the
end of crankshaft. Note that its sealing lip
must be facing inwards. Take care not to
damage the seal lips during fitting.
5 Fit the new seal using a suitable tubular
drift, such as a socket, which bears only on
the hard outer edge of the seal. Tap the seal
into position, to the same depth in the housing
as the original was prior to removal.
6 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the
crankshaft sprocket as described in 
Section 8.

Left-hand oil seal

7 Remove the flywheel/driveplate as
described in Section 17. Make a note of the
correct fitted depth of the seal in its housing.
8 Punch or drill two small holes opposite
each other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping
screw into each, and pull on the screws with
pliers to extract the seal.
9 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
10 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with
clean engine oil, and carefully locate the seal
on the end of the crankshaft.
11 Fit the new seal using a suitable tubular
drift, which bears only on the hard outer edge
of the seal. Drive the seal into position, to the
same depth in the housing as the original was
prior to removal.
12 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the
flywheel/driveplate with reference to 
Section 17.

17 Flywheel/driveplate -

removal, inspection and
refitting

4

Removal

Flywheel - 
models with manual transmission

1 Remove the transmission as described in
Chapter 7A, then remove the clutch assembly
as described in Chapter 6.
2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking
the ring gear teeth with a similar arrangement
to that shown in illustration 5.3 (Section 5).
Alternatively, bolt a strap between the
flywheel and the cylinder block/crankcase. Do
not attempt to lock the flywheel in position
using the crankshaft pulley locking pin
described in Section 3.
3 Slacken and remove the flywheel retaining
bolts, and remove the flywheel from the end
of the crankshaft. Be careful not to drop it; it is
heavy. If the flywheel locating dowel is a loose
fit in the crankshaft end, remove it and store it
with the flywheel for safe-keeping. Discard the

flywheel bolts; new ones must be used on
refitting.

Driveplate - 
models with automatic transmission

4 Remove the transmission as described in
Chapter 7B. Lock the driveplate as described
in paragraph 2. Mark the relationship between
the torque converter plate and the driveplate,
and slacken all the driveplate retaining bolts.
5 Remove the retaining bolts, along with the
torque converter plate and the two shims (one
fitted on each side of the torque converter
plate). Note that the shims are of different
thickness, the thicker one being on the
outside of the torque converter plate. Discard
the driveplate retaining bolts; new ones must
be used on refitting.
6 Remove the driveplate from the end of the
crankshaft. If the locating dowel is a loose fit
in the crankshaft end, remove it and store it
with the driveplate for safe-keeping.

Inspection

7 On models with manual transmission,
examine the flywheel for scoring of the clutch
face, and for wear or chipping of the ring gear
teeth. If the clutch face is scored, the flywheel
may be surface-ground, but renewal is
preferable. Seek the advice of a Peugeot
dealer or engine reconditioning specialist to
see if machining is possible. If the ring gear is
worn or damaged, the flywheel must be
renewed, as it is not possible to renew the
ring gear separately.
8 On models with automatic transmission,
check the torque converter driveplate
carefully for signs of distortion. Look for any
hairline cracks around the bolt holes or
radiating outwards from the centre, and
inspect the ring gear teeth for signs of wear or
chipping. If any sign of wear or damage is
found, the driveplate must be renewed.

Refitting

Flywheel - 
models with manual transmission

9 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel
and crankshaft. Remove any locking
compound from the threads of the crankshaft
holes, using the correct-size tap, if available.

10 If the new flywheel retaining bolts are not
supplied with their threads already pre-
coated, apply a suitable thread-locking
compound to the threads of each bolt (see
illustration).
11 Ensure that the locating dowel is in
position. Offer up the flywheel, locating it on
the dowel, and fit the new retaining bolts.
12 Lock the flywheel using the method
employed on dismantling, and tighten the
retaining bolts to the specified torque (see
illustration).
13 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6.
Remove the flywheel locking tool, and refit the
transmission as described in Chapter 7A.

Driveplate - 
models with automatic transmission

14 Carry out the operations described above
in paragraphs 9 and 10, substituting
“driveplate” for all references to the flywheel.
15 Locate the driveplate on its locating
dowel.
16 Offer up the torque converter plate, with
the thinner shim positioned behind the plate
and the thicker shim on the outside, and align
the marks made prior to removal.
17 Fit the new retaining bolts, then lock the
driveplate using the method employed on
dismantling. Tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
18 Remove the driveplate locking tool, and
refit the transmission (see Chapter 7B).

18 Engine/transmission

mountings - inspection and
renewal

2

Inspection

1 If improved access is required, raise the
front of the car and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

XU engine in-car repair procedures  2B•23

17.12  . . . then refit the flywheel, and

tighten the bolts to the specified torque

17.10  If the new flywheel bolt threads are

not supplied with their threads pre-coated,

apply locking compound to them . . .

2B

If a suitable tap is not
available, cut two slots
along the threads of one of
the old flywheel bolts, and

use the bolt to remove the locking
compound from the threads.

2 Check the mounting rubber to see if it is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal at any point; renew the mounting if any
such damage or deterioration is evident.
3 Check that all the mounting’s fasteners are
securely tightened; use a torque wrench to
check if possible.
4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar,
check for wear in the mounting by carefully
levering against it to check for free play.
Where this is not possible, enlist the aid of an
assistant to move the engine/transmission
back and forth, or from side to side, while you
watch the mounting. While some free play is
to be expected even from new components,
excessive wear should be obvious. If
excessive free play is found, check first that
the fasteners are correctly secured, then
renew any worn components as described
below.

Renewal

Right-hand mounting - 1580 cc, 
1761 cc and 1905 cc models

5 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
Release all the relevant hoses and wiring from
their retaining clips, and position clear of the
mounting so that they do not hinder the
removal procedure.
6 Place a jack beneath the engine, with a
block of wood on the jack head. Raise the
jack until it is supporting the weight of the
engine.
7 Slacken and remove the three nuts
securing the right-hand mounting bracket to
the engine. Remove the single nut securing
the bracket to the mounting rubber, and lift off
the bracket.
8 Lift the rubber buffer plate off the mounting
rubber stud, then unscrew the mounting
rubber from the body and remove it from the
vehicle. If necessary, the mounting bracket
can be unbolted and removed from the side of
the cylinder head.
9 Check all components carefully for wear or
damage, and renew them where necessary.
10 On reassembly, screw the mounting
rubber into the vehicle body, and tighten it
securely. Where removed, refit the mounting

bracket to the side of the cylinder head, and
securely tighten its retaining bolts.
11 Refit the rubber buffer plate to the
mounting rubber stud, and install the
mounting bracket.
12 Tighten the mounting bracket retaining
nuts to the specified torque setting.
13 Remove the jack from underneath the
engine, and reconnect the battery negative
terminal.

Right-hand mounting - 
1998 cc 8-valve and 16-valve models

14 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
Release all the relevant hoses and wiring from
their retaining clips. Place the hoses/wiring
clear of the mounting so that the removal
procedure is not hindered.
15 Place a jack beneath the engine, with a
block of wood on the jack head. Raise the
jack until it is supporting the weight of the
engine.
16 Undo the two bolts securing the curved
mounting retaining plate to the body. Lift off
the plate, and withdraw the rubber damper
from the top of the mounting bracket.
17 Slacken and remove the two nuts and two
bolts securing the right-hand engine/
transmission mounting bracket to the engine.
Remove the single nut securing the bracket to
the mounting rubber, and lift off the bracket.
18 Lift the rubber buffer plate off the
mounting rubber stud, then unscrew the
mounting rubber from the body and remove it
from the vehicle. If necessary, the mounting
bracket can be unbolted and removed from
the front of the cylinder block.
19 Check all components carefully for signs
of wear or damage, and renew as necessary.
20 On reassembly, screw the mounting
rubber into the vehicle body, and tighten it
securely. Where removed, refit the mounting
bracket to the front of the cylinder block, and
securely tighten its retaining bolts.
21 Refit the rubber buffer plate to the
mounting rubber stud, and install the
mounting bracket.
22 Tighten the mounting bracket retaining
nuts to the specified torque setting, and
remove the jack from underneath the engine.

23 Refit the rubber damper to the top of the
mounting bracket, and refit the curved
retaining plate. Tighten the retaining plate
bolts to the specified torque, and reconnect
the battery.

Left-hand mounting

24 Remove the battery and battery tray, as
described in Chapter 5. Slacken and remove
the battery support plate mounting bolts.
Release the wiring from its retaining clip on
the plate, and remove the plate from the
engine compartment.
25 Place a jack beneath the transmission,
with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise
the jack until it is supporting the weight of the
transmission.
26 Slacken and remove the centre nut and
washer from the left-hand mounting. Undo the
two bolts securing the mounting bracket
assembly to the vehicle body, and remove the
assembly from the mounting stud.
27 Slide the spacer off the mounting stud,
then unscrew the stud from the top of the
transmission housing, and remove it along
with its washer. If the mounting stud is tight, a
universal stud extractor can be used to
unscrew it.
28 Check all components carefully for signs
of wear or damage, and renew as necessary.
29 Clean the threads of the mounting stud,
and apply a coat of thread-locking compound
to its threads. Refit the stud and washer to the
top of the transmission, and tighten it to the
specified torque setting.
30 Slide the spacer onto the mounting stud,
then refit the mounting bracket assembly.
Tighten both the mounting bracket-to-body
bolts and the mounting centre nut to their
specified torque settings, and remove the jack
from underneath the transmission.
31 Refit the battery support plate, tightening
its retaining bolts securely, then refit the
battery as described in Chapter 5.

Rear mounting

32 Refer to Part A of this Chapter, 
Section 16.

2B•24 XU engine in-car repair procedures

2C

Note: At the time of writing, many specifications for the 1761 cc and 1998 cc (16-valve) engines were not available. Where the relevant specifica-
tions are not given here, refer to your Peugeot dealer for further information.

Cylinder head

Maximum gasket face distortion  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.05 mm

Cylinder head height:

Standard:

1360 cc engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

111.2 ± 0.08 mm

1580 cc, 1761 cc, 1905 cc (8-valve) and 
1998 cc  (8-valve and 16-valve) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

158.93 ± 0.05 mm

1905 cc (16-valve) engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

132.0 ± 0.15 mm

Minimum after refinishing:

1360 cc engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

111.0 mm

1580 cc, 1761 cc, 1905 cc (8-valve) and 
1998 cc (8-valve and 16-valve) engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

158.73 mm

1905 cc (16-valve) engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

131.8 mm

Valves

Valve head diameter:

Inlet:

1360 cc engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

36.8 mm

1580 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41.6 mm

1761 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Not available

1905 cc 8-valve engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41.8 mm

1998 cc 8-valve engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

42.6 mm

1905 cc and 1998 cc 16-valve engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

34.7 mm

Exhaust:

1360 cc engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

29.4 mm

1580 cc and 1905 cc (8-valve) engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

34.7 mm

1761 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Not available

1998 cc 8-valve engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

34.5 mm

1905 cc and 1998 cc 16-valve engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

29.7 mm

Chapter 2  Part C:
Engine removal and overhaul procedures

Crankshaft - inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Crankshaft - refitting and main bearing running clearance check  . . .18
Crankshaft - removal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Cylinder block/crankcase - cleaning and inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Cylinder head - dismantling  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Cylinder head - reassembly  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Cylinder head and valves - cleaning and inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Engine - initial start-up after overhaul  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Engine and automatic transmission - 

removal, separation and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Engine and manual transmission - removal, separation and refitting  . . .4

Engine overhaul - dismantling sequence  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Engine overhaul - general information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Engine/transmission removal - methods and precautions  . . . . . . . . . .3
General information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Main and big-end bearings - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Piston rings - refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Piston/connecting rod assembly - inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Piston/connecting rod assembly - 

refitting and big-end bearing running clearance check  . . . . . . . . .19

Piston/connecting rod assembly - removal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

2C•1

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

Valves (continued)

Valve stem diameter:

Inlet:

1360 cc engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6.84 to 6.99 mm

1580 cc and 1905 cc (8-valve) engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7.83 to 7.98 mm

1761 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Not available

1998 cc (8-valve) engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7.83 to 8.13 mm

1905 cc  and 1998 cc 16-valve engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6.83 to 6.98 mm

Exhaust:

1360 cc engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6.83 to 6.98 mm

1580 cc and 1905 cc (8-valve) engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7.83 to 7.98 mm

1761 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Not available

1998 cc (8-valve) engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7.82 to 8.12 mm

1905 cc  and 1998 cc 16-valve engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6.83 to 6.98 mm

Overall length:

Inlet:

1360 cc engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

112.76 ± 0.25 mm

1580 cc and 1905 cc (8-valve) and 1998 cc (8-valve) engines  . . . .

108.79 ± 0.1 mm

1761 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Not available

1905 cc  and 1998 cc 16-valve engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

104.48 ± 0.1 mm

Exhaust:

1360 cc engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

112.56 ± 0.25 mm

1580 cc and 1905 cc (8-valve) and 1998 cc (8-valve) engines  . . . .

108.37 ± 0.1 mm

1761 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Not available

1905 cc  and 1998 cc 16-valve engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

103.00 ± 0.1 mm

Cylinder block

Cylinder bore diameter:

1360 cc engine:

Size group A  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75.000 to 75.010 mm

Size group B  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75.010 to 75.020 mm

Size group C  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75.020 to 75.030 mm

1580 cc, 1761 cc and 1905 cc (8-valve) engines:

Size group A  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

83.000 to 83.010 mm

Size group B  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

83.010 to 83.020 mm

Size group C  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

83.020 to 83.030 mm

1998 cc (8-valve) engines:

Size group A  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

86.000 to 83.018 mm

Size group B  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

86.250 to 86.268 mm

Size group C  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

86.600 to 86.618 mm

1905 cc (16-valve) engine:

Size group A  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

83.000 to 83.010 mm

Size group B  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

83.010 to 83.020 mm

Size group C  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

83.020 to 83.030 mm

1998 cc (16-valve) engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Not available

Liner protrusion above block mating surface - 
aluminium-block engine only (ie all except 1998 cc):

Standard  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.03 to 0.10 mm

Maximum difference between any two liners:

8-valve engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.05 mm

16-valve engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.02 mm

Pistons

Piston diameter:

1360 cc engine:

Size group A  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

74.950 ± 0.010 mm

Size group B  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

74.960 ± 0.010 mm

Size group C  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

74.970 ± 0.010 mm

1580 cc, 1761 cc and 1905 cc (8-valve) engines:

Size group A  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

82.960 ± 0.007 mm

Size group B  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

82.970 ± 0.007 mm

Size group C  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

82.980 ± 0.007 mm

1905 cc 16-valve engine:

Size group A  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

82.963 to 82.977 mm

Size group B  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

82.973 to 82.987 mm

Size group C  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

82.983 to 82.997 mm

1998 cc 16-valve engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Not available

2C•2 Engine removal and overhaul