Rover 214-414. Service Repair Manual - part 10

Inspection

3 In most cases, the brushes will have wear
limit marks in the form of a groove etched
along one face of each brush. When these
marks are erased by wear, the brushes are
worn out (see illustration). If no marks are
provided, measure the protrusion of each
brush from the brush holder end to the tip of
the brush. No dimension is given by Rover but
as a rough guide, 5.0 mm should be regarded
as a minimum. If either brush is worn to or
below this amount, renew the voltage
regulator and brush holder assembly. If the
brushes are still serviceable, clean them with
a solvent-moistened cloth. Check that the
brush spring pressure is equal for both
brushes and holds the brushes securely
against the slip rings. If in doubt about the
condition of the brushes and springs,
compare them with new components.
4 Clean the slip rings with a solvent-
moistened cloth, then check for signs of
scoring, burning or severe pitting. If worn or
damaged, the slip rings should be attended to
by an auto-electrician.

Refitting

5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.

8

Alternator - 
removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the
front of the vehicle and remove the right-hand
front roadwheel.
3 From underneath the front of the vehicle,
slacken and remove the three bolts securing
the bumper flange to the body. Remove the
seven bolts securing the front undercover
panel to the body and remove the panel.

Models with air conditioning

4 Undo the two bolts and washers securing
the heat shield to the rear of the alternator,

then remove the nut securing the heat shield
to the engine and lift the shield out of the
engine compartment.
5 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
rear of the alternator.
6 Slacken the adjuster pulley retaining nut,
then turn the pulley adjusting bolt until
sufficient drivebelt free play is obtained to be
able to disengage the drivebelt from the
alternator pulley.
7 Slacken and remove the three bolts
securing the alternator to its mounting bracket
then manoeuvre the alternator out of the
engine compartment.

Models without air conditioning

8 Unscrew the three nuts and washers
securing the rear cover to the alternator and
remove the cover. Release the wire retaining
clip and disconnect the alternator wiring
connector (see illustrations).
9 Slacken the lower alternator-to-adjusting
arm bolt and the two upper alternator pivot
bolts, then slacken the drivebelt adjusting bolt
until sufficient free play is obtained to
disengage the drivebelt from the alternator
pulley (see illustrations).
10 Remove the alternator adjusting arm and
upper pivot bolts and manoeuvre the
alternator out of the engine compartment.

Refitting

11 If a new alternator is being fitted, it will be
necessary to remove the pulley and cooling
fan from the old unit. To do this, slacken the

pulley retaining nut whilst preventing it from
rotating by using a suitable Allen key to retain
the alternator shaft, or by clamping the pulley
firmly in a vice equipped with soft jaws.
Remove the pulley, cooling fan and fan
washer from the old alternator and, ensuring
that the pulley and shaft mating surfaces are
clean, fit them to the new unit. Tighten the
pulley retaining nut to the specified torque
whilst using the method employed on removal
to retain the pulley.

Models with air conditioning

12 Manoeuvre the alternator into position
then refit its mounting bolts and tighten them
to the specified torque.
13 Locate the drivebelt on the alternator
pulley then adjust drivebelt tension as
described in Chapter 1.
14 Reconnect the wiring connector to the
rear of the alternator then refit the heat shield,
tightening its retaining nut and bolts securely.
Reconnect the battery.

Models without air conditioning

15 Manoeuvre the alternator into position
then refit the adjusting arm and pivot bolts
and tighten them lightly.
16 Locate the drivebelt on the alternator
pulley and adjust drivebelt tension as
described in Chapter 1.
17 Reconnect the wiring connector to the
rear of the alternator then refit the rear cover,
tightening its retaining nuts securely.
Reconnect the battery.

5C•4 Starting and charging systems

8.9b  . . . and lower adjusting arm bolt (A)

then rotate adjuster bolt (B) to slacken

drivebelt tension

8.9a  Slacken upper pivot mounting 

bolts . . .

8.8b  . . . and disconnect wiring connector

8.8a  Remove cover from rear of 

alternator . . .

7.3  Alternator brush wear limit marks

(arrowed)

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

9

Starting system - testing

2

1 If the starter motor fails to operate when the
switch is operated, the following may be the
cause:

a)

The battery is faulty.

b)

The electrical connections between the
ignition switch, solenoid, battery and
starter motor are somewhere failing to
pass the necessary current from the
battery through the starter to earth.

c)

The solenoid is faulty.

d)

The starter relay is faulty.

e)

The starter motor is mechanically or
electrically defective.

2 To check the battery, switch on the
headlamps. If they dim after a few seconds
then the battery is discharged. Recharge or
renew the battery. If the lamps glow brightly,
operate the ignition switch and see what
happens to the lamps. If they dim, then you
know that power is reaching the starter motor,
therefore the motor must be removed and
renewed or overhauled to cure the fault. If the
lamps stay bright (and no clicking sound can
be heard from the solenoid), there is a fault in
the circuit or solenoid. If the starter turns
slowly when switched on, but the battery is in
good condition, then either the starter must
be faulty or there is considerable resistance in
the circuit.

3 If the circuit is suspected, disconnect the
battery terminals (including the earth
connection to the body), the starter/solenoid
wiring and the engine/gearbox unit earth lead,
thoroughly clean their connections and refit
them, then use a meter or test lamp to check
that full battery voltage is available at the
solenoid terminal of the battery positive lead
and that the earth is sound. Smear petroleum
jelly around the battery terminals to prevent
corrosion. Corroded connections are the most
frequent cause of electrical system
malfunctions.
4 If the battery and all connections are in
good condition, check the circuit first by
disconnecting the wire from the solenoid
blade terminal. Connect a meter or test lamp
between the wire end and the terminal and
check that the wire is live when the ignition
switch is operated. If it is, then the circuit is
sound. If not, proceed to paragraph 7.
5 The solenoid contacts can be checked by
putting a voltmeter or test lamp across the
main cable connection on the starter side of
the solenoid and earth. When the switch is
operated, there should be a reading or 
lighted bulb. If there is no reading or lighted
bulb, the solenoid is faulty and should be
renewed.
6 If the circuit and solenoid are proved
sound, the fault must be in the starter motor.
Remove the motor and check its brushes. If
the fault does not lie in the brushes, the motor
windings must be faulty. In this event, the

motor must be renewed, unless an auto-
electrical specialist can be found who will
overhaul the unit at a cost significantly less
than that of a new or exchange starter motor.
7 If the circuit is thought to be faulty, first
check the starter relay which is situated in the
engine compartment fusebox. A simple test is
to temporarily replace it with one of the other
relays from the fusebox, such as the 
cooling fan relay, which is known to be in a
good condition. If this resolves the fault, then
the starter relay is faulty and must be
renewed. If not, check the ignition switch and
wiring.

10 Starter motor - 

removal and refitting

2

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the right-hand front
roadwheel.
3 From underneath the front of the vehicle,
slacken and remove the three bolts securing
the bumper flange to the body. Remove 
the seven bolts securing the front 
undercover panel to the body and remove the
panel.
4 Undo the nut and disconnect the battery
cable from the main solenoid terminal.
Carefully disconnect the spade connector
from the solenoid (see illustration).
5 Unscrew the two bolts securing the starter
motor support bracket to the gearbox (see
illustration).
6 Slacken and remove the three starter motor
mounting bolts, noting the earth strap which is
fitted to the upper bolt, and manoeuvre the
starter motor out from underneath the vehicle
(see illustrations).

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reverse of the removal
sequence, tightening all nuts and bolts to their
specified torque settings.

Starting and charging systems  5C•5

10.5  Starter motor support bracket-to-

gearbox bolts

10.6a  Starter motor lower mounting bolts

viewed from underneath

10.6c  Removing the starter motor

10.6b  Starter motor upper mounting bolt

and earth strap (arrowed) - viewed from

above

10.4  Starter solenoid main terminal nut (A)

and spade connector (B)

5C

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

11 Starter motor - 

brush and solenoid renewal

2

1 Remove the starter motor.

Brushes

Removal

2 Undo the two nuts securing the support
bracket to the rear of the starter motor and
remove the bracket (see illustration).
3 Undo the two screws and remove the small
cover and gasket from the centre of the
starter motor end cover (see illustration).
Prise out the C-clip and withdraw any
thrustwashers fitted to the armature end.
4 Noting the alignment marks between the

end cover or grommet and the yoke, unscrew
the two through-bolts and withdraw the end
cover (see illustrations).
5 Carefully prise off the negative (field coil)
brush retaining caps from the brush holder
assembly then remove the springs and slide
the brushes out of the holder.
6 Remove the nut and spring washer
securing the positive brush lead to the
solenoid terminal and slide the brush holder
assembly off the end of the commutator.
Withdraw the plastic insulating plate then
remove the positive brush retaining caps and
springs and remove the positive brushes from
the holder (see illustrations).

Inspection

7 In most cases, the brushes will have wear
limit marks in the form of a groove etched

along one face of each brush. When the
brushes are worn down to these marks, they
are worn out and must be renewed. If no
marks are provided, measure the length of
each brush (see illustration). No dimension is
given by Rover but as a rough guide 3.5 mm
should be regarded as a minimum. If any
brush is worn below this amount, renew the
brushes as a set. If the brushes are still
serviceable, clean them with a solvent-
moistened cloth. Check that the brush spring
pressure is equal for all brushes and holds the
brushes securely against the commutator. If in
doubt about the condition of the brushes and
springs, compare them with new
components.
8 Clean the commutator with a solvent-
moistened cloth, then check for signs of
scoring, burning, excessive wear or severe
pitting. If worn or damaged, the commutator
should be attended to by an auto-electrician.

Refitting

9 On refitting, slot the positive brushes into
position in the brush holder then refit the
insulating plate, ensuring that the small
threaded brackets are correctly positioned on
the brush holder and locate with the pins 
on the insulating plate.
10 Fit the brush holder assembly to the
commutator and slot the negative (field coil)
brushes into position in the brush holder. With
all the brushes in position, fit the brush
springs and secure them in position with the
retaining caps. Check that the brushes are

5C•6 Starting and charging systems

11.7  Measuring starter motor brush length

11.6c  . . . and remove positive brush

assembly from motor

11.6b  . . . remove brush spring caps and

springs . . .

11.6a  Remove plastic insulating plate . . .

11.4b  . . .  then remove through-bolts and

withdraw end cover

11.4a  Note alignment marks between yoke

and grommet  . . .

11.3  Remove cover to gain access to

armature C-clip

11.2  Undo retaining nuts and remove

support bracket from starter motor

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

free to move in their holders against spring
pressure.
11 Refit the starter motor end cover,
engaging it with the grommet, and aligning the
marks noted on removal. Tighten the cover
through-bolts securely.
12 Refit any necessary thrustwashers to the
end of the armature and secure them in
position with the C-clip. Refit the gasket and
small cover to the end cover and tighten its
retaining screws securely. Connect the
positive brush lead to the solenoid terminal
and tighten the nut securely.

13 Refit the support bracket to the motor and
tighten its retaining nuts to the specified
torque.

Solenoid

Removal

14 Slacken and remove the nut and spring
washer securing the starter motor (positive
brush) lead to the solenoid and disconnect the
lead from the solenoid terminal (see
illustration).
15 Unscrew the two bolts and spring
washers securing the solenoid to the starter

motor drive end bracket (see illustration).
16 Release the solenoid plunger from the
starter engaging lever, then withdraw the
solenoid, noting the spring which is fitted to
the plunger (see illustration).

Refitting

17 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the solenoid, its
plunger and the motor/solenoid mating
surfaces are clean and lubricate the
plunger/starter engaging lever surfaces with a
smear of grease (Rover recommend Shell
Alvania).

Starting and charging systems  5C•7

11.16  . . . then release solenoid plunger

from lever and remove assembly from

motor

11.15  Remove solenoid retaining bolts

(one arrowed) . . .

11.14  Unscrew nut and disconnect starter

motor lead from solenoid terminal

5C

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

9

Chapter 9
Braking system

Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) - component removal and refitting . . 26
Brake pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Front brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Front brake pads - inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Front brake pads - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
General information and precautions  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

Handbrake cables - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Handbrake lever - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Hydraulic fluid - level check and renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

Hydraulic pipes and hoses - inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

Hydraulic pipes and hoses - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

Hydraulic system - bleeding  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

Pressure regulating valve - testing, removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . 14
Rear brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Rear brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Rear brake drum - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Rear brake pads - inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Rear brake pads - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Rear brake shoes - inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Rear brake shoes - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Rear wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Stop lamp switch - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Vacuum servo unit - testing, removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

Vacuum servo unit check valve - removal, testing and refitting  . . . .

4

9•1

Contents

Specifications

Brake system

Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Dual hydraulic circuit, split diagonally on models without ABS and
front to rear on models with ABS. Disc front brakes. Drum rear brakes
except on models with ABS which have rear disc brakes. Vacuum
servo-assistance on all models. Cable-operated handbrake on rear
brakes

Front brakes

Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Disc, with single piston sliding caliper

Disc diameter:

Non-ABS  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

238 mm

ABS  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

262 mm

Disc thickness:

New:

Non-ABS  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12.80 mm

ABS  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

21.60 mm

Minimum thickness after machining:

Non-ABS  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10.70 mm

ABS  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

19.00 mm

Maximum disc run-out  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.02 mm

Brake pad friction material minimum thickness  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3.0 mm

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1

Rear brakes

Non-ABS

Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Single leading shoe drum

Drum diameter:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

200 mm

Maximum diameter after machining  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

204 mm

Maximum drum ovality  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.012 mm

Brake shoe friction material minimum thickness  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.0 mm

ABS

Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Disc, with single piston sliding caliper

Disc diameter  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

239 mm

Disc thickness:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10 mm

Minimum thickness after machining  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8 mm

Maximum disc run-out  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.06 mm

Brake pad friction material minimum thickness  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3.0 mm

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Servo vacuum hose-to-inlet manifold union bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50

37

Brake hose union bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

38

28

Master cylinder-to-servo unit nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

17

13

Master cylinder brake pipe union nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

24

18

Brake caliper guide pin bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

32

24

Brake disc retaining screws  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12

9

Front brake caliper bracket-to-hub bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

81

60

Pressure regulating valve union nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

14

10

Rear brake drum retaining screws  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Rear wheel cylinder-to-backplate bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Rear brake caliper bracket-to-trailing arm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

40

30

Handbrake cable-to-underbody retaining bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

22

16

ABS modulator mounting nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

5

ABS modulator brake pipe union nuts:

Upper union nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

15

11

Lower union nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

24

18

ABS front wheel sensor retaining bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

ABS rear wheel sensor retaining bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

ABS wheel sensor wiring bracket bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

ABS rear wheel sensor cover and cover strap bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Roadwheel nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

100

74

9•2 Braking system

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

1.0a  Non-ABS braking system component layout

1 Primary hydraulic circuit
2 Secondary hydraulic circuit
3 Brake pipe - pressure

regulating valve to right-hand
front hose

4 Brake pipe - pressure

regulating valve to left-hand
front hose

5 Brake pipe - pressure

regulating valve to right-hand
rear hose

6 Brake pipe - pressure

regulating valve to left-hand
rear hose

7 Brake pipe - hose to rear wheel

cylinder

8 Brake flexible hose - brake pipe

to front brake caliper

9 Brake flexible hose - rear wheel

10 Handbrake cable
11 Pressure regulating valve

1

General information and
precautions

General information

The braking system is of the servo-

assisted, dual circuit hydraulic type. The
arrangement of the hydraulic system is such
that each circuit operates one front and one
rear brake from a tandem master cylinder.
Under normal circumstances both circuits
operate in unison. However, in the event of
hydraulic failure in one circuit, full braking
force will still be available at two wheels (see
illustrations).

On models not equipped with an Anti-lock

Braking System (ABS), a pressure regulating
valve is also incorporated in the hydraulic
circuit to regulate the pressure applied to the
rear brakes and reduce the possibility of 
the rear wheels locking under heavy braking.
On models equipped with ABS, the pressure
regulating valve is fitted is but it is non-
operational.

All models are fitted with front disc brakes.

Models equipped with ABS are fitted with
ventilated discs, whereas non-ABS models
are fitted with solid discs. The disc brakes are
actuated by single piston sliding type calipers
which ensure that equal pressure is applied to
each disc pad.

Non-ABS models are fitted with rear drum

brakes, incorporating leading and trailing
shoes which are actuated by twin piston
wheel cylinders. A self-adjust mechanism is
incorporated to automatically compensate for
brake shoe wear. As the brake shoe linings

wear, the footbrake operation automatically
operates the adjuster mechanism quadrant
which effectively lengthens the shoe strut and
repositions the brake shoes to remove the
lining-to-drum clearance.

ABS models are equipped with rear disc

brakes. The disc brakes are actuated by a
single piston sliding caliper which
incorporates a mechanical handbrake
mechanism.

On all models, the handbrake provides an

independent mechanical means of rear brake
application. Full details of ABS system
operation are as follows.

Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) -
operation

ABS is available as an option on all models

covered in this Manual. The system
comprises a modulator block which contains
an ABS Electronic Control Unit (ECU),
hydraulic solenoid valves and accumulators,
and an electrically-driven return pump. One
sensor is fitted to each roadwheel. The
purpose of this system is to prevent wheel
locking during heavy braking. This is achieved
by automatic release of the brake on the
relevant wheel, followed by reapplication of
the brake.

The solenoids are controlled by the ECU

which receives signals from the four
roadwheel sensors, which in turn monitor the
speed of rotation of each wheel. By
comparing these speed signals from the four
wheels, the ECU can determine the speed at
which the vehicle is travelling. It can then use
this speed to determine when a wheel is
decelerating at an abnormal rate compared to
the speed of the vehicle and therefore predict
when a wheel is about to lock. During normal

operation, the system functions in the same
way as a non-ABS braking system.

If the ECU senses that a wheel is about to

lock, the ABS system enters the ‘pressure
maintain’ phase. The ECU operates the
relevant solenoid valve in the modulator block
which then isolates the brake caliper on the
wheel which is about to lock from the master
cylinder, effectively sealing in the hydraulic
pressure.

If the speed of rotation of the wheel

continues to decrease at an abnormal rate,
the ABS system then enters the ‘pressure
decrease’ phase, where the electrically-driven
return pump operates and pumps the
hydraulic fluid back into the master cylinder,
releasing pressure on the brake caliper so that
the brake is released. Once the speed of
rotation of the wheel returns to an acceptable
rate, the pump stops and the solenoid valve
opens thereby allowing the hydraulic master
cylinder pressure to return to the caliper
which then reapplies the brake. This cycle can
be carried out at up to 10 times a second.

The action of the solenoid valves and return

pump creates pulses in the hydraulic circuit.
When the ABS system is functioning, these
pulses can be felt through the brake pedal.

The solenoid valves connected to the front

calipers operate independently, but the valve
connected to the rear calipers, together with
the pressure regulating valve, operates both
calipers simultaneously.

Operation of the ABS system is entirely

dependent on electrical signals. To prevent
the system responding to any inaccurate
signals, a built-in safety circuit monitors 
all signals received by the ECU. If an
inaccurate signal or low battery voltage is
detected, the ABS system is automatically

Braking system  9•3

1.0b  ABS braking system component layout

9

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

1 Primary hydraulic circuit
2 Secondary hydraulic circuit
3 Brake pipe - modulator to pressure

regulating valve

4 Brake pipe - modulator to pressure

regulating valve

5 Brake pipe - modulator to right-hand

front hose

6 Brake pipe - modulator to left-hand

front hose

7 Brake pipe - modulator to right-hand

rear hose

8 Brake pipe - modulator to left-hand

rear hose

9 Pressure regulating valve

10 Handbrake cable
11 Brake flexible hose - brake pipe to

front brake caliper

12 Brake flexible hose - brake pipe to rear

brake caliper

shut down and the warning lamp on the
instrument panel is illuminated to inform the
driver that the ABS system is not operational.

If a fault does develop in the ABS system

the vehicle must be taken to a Rover dealer
for fault diagnosis and repair.

Precautions

Hydraulic fluid is poisonous. Wash off

immediately and thoroughly in the case of skin
contact and seek immediate medical advice if
any fluid is swallowed or gets into the eyes.
Certain types of hydraulic fluid are
inflammable and may ignite when allowed into
contact with hot components.

When servicing any hydraulic system, it is

safest to assume that the fluid is inflammable
and to take precautions against the risk of fire
as though it is petrol that is being handled.
Hydraulic fluid is also an effective paint
stripper and will attack plastics. If any is spilt,
it should be washed off immediately using
copious quantities of fresh water.

Hydraulic fluid is hygroscopic, that is, it

absorbs moisture from the air, so old fluid
may be contaminated and unfit for further use.
When topping-up or renewing fluid, always
use the recommended type and ensure that it
comes from a freshly-opened sealed
container.

When working on brake components, take

care not to disperse brake dust into the air, or
to inhale it, since it may contain asbestos
which is injurious to health.

When servicing any part of the system,

work carefully and methodically. Also observe
scrupulous cleanliness when overhauling any
part of the hydraulic system. Always renew
components (in axle sets, where applicable) if
in doubt about their condition and use only
genuine Rover replacement parts, or at least
those of known good quality.

2

Brake pedal - 
removal and refitting

2

Removal

1 Working inside the vehicle, undo the five
screws and remove the right-hand lower facia
panel.
2 Extract the R-clip and clevis pin securing
the servo unit pushrod to the brake pedal.
3 Using pliers, carefully unhook the brake
pedal return spring from the pedal to release
all the spring tension.
4 Slacken and remove the nut and washers
(as applicable) from the brake pedal pivot bolt
then withdraw the pivot bolt and remove the
brake pedal and return spring.
5 Examine all brake pedal components for
signs of wear, paying particular attention to
the pedal bushes, pivot bolt and return spring,
renewing as necessary.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure. Lubricate the bushes, pivot bolt
and clevis pin with multi-purpose grease.
7 On completion, check the operation of the
pedal and ensure that it returns smoothly to
its at rest position under the pressure of the
return spring.

3

Vacuum servo unit - 
testing, removal and refitting

3

Testing

1 To test operation of the servo unit, depress
the footbrake several times to exhaust the
vacuum, then start the engine whilst keeping
the pedal firmly depressed. As the engine
starts, there should be a noticeable ‘give’ in
the brake pedal as the vacuum builds up.
Allow the engine to run for at least two
minutes then switch it off. If the brake pedal is
now depressed it should feel normal, but
further applications should result in the pedal
felling firmer, with the pedal stroke decreasing
with each application.
2 If the servo does not operate as described,
inspect the servo unit check valve, see
Section 4.
3 If the servo unit still fails to operate
satisfactorily, the fault lies within the unit itself.
Repairs to the unit are possible but special
tools are required and the work should be
entrusted to a suitably equipped Rover dealer.

Removal

4 Remove the air cleaner assembly.
5 Remove the master cylinder.
6 Disconnect the vacuum hose connection
from the grommet on the servo unit, taking
great care not to damage or displace the
sealing grommet (see illustration).
7 Working inside the vehicle, undo the five
retaining screws and remove the right-hand
lower facia panel.
8 Extract the R-clip and clevis pin securing
the servo unit pushrod to the brake pedal (see
illustration).

9 Slacken and remove the four nuts securing
the servo unit to the engine compartment
bulkhead then remove the unit, noting the
gasket which is fitted to the rear of the unit.

Refitting

10 Prior to refitting, check the servo unit to
vacuum hose sealing grommet for signs of
damage or deterioration and renew if
necessary.
11 Fit a new gasket to the rear of the servo
unit and reposition the unit in the engine
compartment.
12 From inside the vehicle, ensure the servo
unit pushrod is correctly engaged with the
brake pedal then refit the servo unit mounting
nuts and tighten them securely.
13 Refit the servo unit pushrod to brake
pedal clevis pin and secure it in position with
the R-clip.
14 Refit the right-hand lower facia panel,
tightening its retaining screws securely.
15 From inside the engine compartment,
carefully ease the vacuum hose connection
back into position in the servo unit, taking
care not to displace the sealing grommet.
16 Refit the air cleaner assembly and master
cylinder.
17 On completion, start the engine and
check for air leaks at the vacuum hose to
servo unit connection and the operation of the
braking system.

4

Vacuum servo unit check
valve - removal, testing 
and refitting

2

Note: The vacuum servo unit check valve is
only available as part of the vacuum hose
assembly. Do not try to remove the valve, 
the servo unit connection, or the inlet 
manifold union from the hose or air leaks may
ensue, necessitating renewal of the hose
assembly.

9•4 Braking system

3.8  Vacuum servo unit and pushrod

attachments

1

Servo unit mounting nuts

2

Pushrod clevis pin

3

R-clip

3.6  Master cylinder mounting nuts (A) and

servo vacuum hose connection (B)

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Removal

1 Carefully unplug the hose connection from
the vacuum servo unit taking care not to
damage the sealing grommet.
2 Unscrew the union bolt securing the
vacuum hose assembly to the inlet manifold
and withdraw the hose assembly from the
engine compartment. Remove the union bolt
from the hose end and discard the sealing
washers.

Testing

3 Examine the hose for damage, splits,
cracks or general deterioration. Make sure
that the check valve inside the hose is
working correctly by blowing through the
hose from the servo unit connection end. Air
should flow in this direction but not when
blown through from the inlet manifold union.
Renew the hose and check valve assembly if
at all suspect.
4 Examine the servo unit sealing grommet for
signs of damage or deterioration and renew if
necessary.

Refitting

5 Position a new sealing washer on each side
of the hose union and refit the hose-to-inlet
manifold union bolt. Ensure that the hose
union locating pin is correctly situated
between the lugs on the manifold then tighten
the union bolt to the specified torque setting
(see illustration).
6 Carefully ease the hose connection into the
servo unit sealing grommet, taking care not to
displace or damage the grommet.
7 On completion, start the engine and check
the vacuum hose-to-servo unit connection for
signs of air leaks.

5

Hydraulic fluid - 
level check and renewal

Refer to “Weekly Checks” and Chapter 1.

6

Hydraulic system - bleeding

3

General

1 The correct operation of any hydraulic
system is only possible after removal of all air
from the components and circuit. This is
achieved by bleeding the system.
2 During the bleeding procedure, add only
clean, unused hydraulic fluid of the

recommended type. Never re-use fluid that has
already been bled from the system. Ensure that
sufficient fluid is available before starting work.
3 If there is any possibility of incorrect fluid
being already in the system, the brake
components and circuit must be flushed
completely with uncontaminated, correct fluid
and new seals should be fitted to the various
components.
4 If hydraulic fluid has been lost from the
system, or air has entered because of a leak,
then ensure that the fault is cured before
proceeding further.
5 Park the vehicle on level ground, switch off
the engine and select first or reverse gear,
then chock the wheels and release the
handbrake.
6 Check that all pipes and hoses are secure,
unions tight and bleed screws closed. Clean
any dirt from around the bleed screws.
7 Unscrew the master cylinder reservoir cap
and top the master cylinder reservoir up to the
MAX level line. Refit the cap loosely and
remember to maintain the fluid level at least
above the MIN level line throughout the
procedure or there is a risk of further air
entering the system.
8 There are a number of one-man, do-it-
yourself brake bleeding kits currently available
from motor accessory shops. It is
recommended that one of these kits is used
whenever possible as they greatly simplify the
bleeding operation and also reduce the risk of
expelled air and fluid being drawn back into
the system. If such a kit is not available, then
the basic (two-man) method must be used
which is described in detail below.
9 If a kit is to be used, prepare the vehicle as
described previously and follow the kit
manufacturer’s instructions as the procedure
may vary slightly according to the type being
used. Generally, they are as outlined below in
the relevant sub-section.
10 Whichever method is used, the same
sequence must be followed (paragraphs 11
and 12) to ensure the removal of all air from
the system.

Bleeding sequence

11 If the system has been only partially
disconnected and suitable precautions were

taken to minimise fluid loss, it should be
necessary only to bleed that part of the
system (ie: the primary or secondary circuit).
12 If the complete system is to be bled, then
it should be done working in the following
sequence:

Non-ABS models

Left-hand front brake.
Right-hand rear brake.
Right-hand front brake.
Left-hand rear brake.

ABS models

Left-hand front brake.
Right-hand front brake.
Left-hand rear brake.
Right-hand rear brake.

Bleeding - basic (two-man)
method

13 Collect a clean glass jar, a suitable length
of plastic or rubber tubing which is a tight fit
over the bleed screw and a ring spanner to fit
the screw. The help of an assistant will also be
required.
14 Remove the dust cap from the first screw
in the sequence. Fit the spanner and tube to
the screw, place the other end of the tube in
the jar and pour in sufficient fluid to cover the
end of the tube.
15 Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir
fluid level is maintained at least above the MIN
level line throughout the procedure.
16 Have the assistant fully depress the brake
pedal several times to build up pressure, then
maintain it on the final stroke.
17 While pedal pressure is maintained,
unscrew the bleed screw (approximately one
turn) and allow the fluid and air to flow into the
jar. The assistant should maintain pedal
pressure, following it down to the floor if
necessary and should not release it until
instructed to do so. When the flow stops,
tighten the bleed screw again, release the
pedal slowly and recheck the reservoir fluid
level.
18 Repeat the steps given in paragraphs 16
and 17 until the fluid emerging from the bleed
screw is free from air bubbles. If the master
cylinder has been drained and refilled and air
is being bled from the first screw in the
sequence, allow approximately five seconds
between cycles for the master cylinder
passages to refill.
19 When no more air bubbles appear, tighten
the bleed screw securely, remove the tube
and spanner and refit the dust cap. Do not
overtighten the bleed screw.
20 Repeat the procedure on the remaining
screws in the sequence until all air is removed
from the system and the brake pedal feels
firm again.

Bleeding - using a one-way
valve kit

21 As their name implies, these kits consist
of a length of tubing with a one-way valve

Braking system  9•5

4.5  Ensure hose union locating pin is

correctly located between lugs on inlet

manifold

9

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Hydraulic fluid is an
effective paint stripper and
will attack plastics. If any is
spilt, it should be washed off

immediately using copious quantities
of fresh water.

fitted to prevent expelled air and fluid being
drawn back into the system. Some kits
include a translucent container which can be
positioned so that the air bubbles can be
more easily seen flowing from the end of the
tube (see illustration).
22 The kit is connected to the bleed screw,
which is then opened. The user returns to the
driver’s seat and depresses the brake pedal
with a smooth, steady stroke and slowly
releases it. This sequence is repeated until the
expelled fluid is clear of air bubbles.
23

Note that these kits simplify work so

much that it is easy to forget the master
cylinder reservoir fluid level. Ensure that this is
maintained at least above the MIN level line at
all times.

Bleeding - using a pressure
bleeding kit

24 These kits are usually operated by the
reservoir of pressurised air contained in the
spare tyre, although note that it will probably
be necessary to reduce the pressure to a
lower limit than normal. Refer to the
instructions supplied with the kit.
25 By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filled
container to the master cylinder reservoir,
bleeding can be carried out simply by opening
each screw in turn (in the specified sequence)
and allowing the fluid to flow out until no more
air bubbles can be seen in the expelled fluid.
26 This method has the advantage that the
large reservoir of fluid provides an additional
safeguard against air being drawn into the
system during bleeding.
27 Pressure bleeding is particularly effective
when bleeding ‘difficult’ systems or when
bleeding the complete system at the time of
routine fluid renewal.

All methods

28 When bleeding is complete and firm pedal
feel is restored, wash off any spilt fluid, tighten
the bleed screws securely and refit their dust
caps.
29 Check the hydraulic fluid level and top up
if necessary.
30 Discard any hydraulic fluid that has been
bled from the system as it will not be fit for re-
use.
31 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If it

feels at all spongy, air must still be present in
the system and further bleeding is required.
Failure to bleed satisfactorily after a
reasonable repetition of the bleeding
procedure may be due to worn master
cylinder seals.

7

Hydraulic pipes and hoses -
inspection

Refer to Chapter 1, Section 6.

8

Hydraulic pipes and hoses -
renewal

3

1 If any pipe or hose is to be renewed,
minimise fluid loss by removing the master
cylinder reservoir cap and then tightening it
down onto a piece of polythene (taking care
not to damage the sender unit) to obtain an
airtight seal. Alternatively, flexible hoses can
be sealed by using a proprietary brake hose
clamp, while metal brake pipe unions can be
plugged (if care is taken not to allow dirt into
the system) or capped immediately they are
disconnected (see illustration). Place a wad
of rag under any union that is to be
disconnected to catch any spilt fluid.
2 If a flexible hose is to be disconnected,
unscrew the brake pipe union nut before
removing the spring clip which secures the
hose to its mounting bracket.
3 To unscrew the union nuts it is preferable to
obtain a brake pipe spanner of the correct
size. These spanners are available from most
large motor accessory shops (see
illustration). Failing this, a close-fitting open-
ended spanner will be required, though if the
nuts are tight or corroded, their flats may be
rounded-off if the spanner slips. In such a
case, a self-locking wrench is often the only
way to unscrew a stubborn union but it follows
that the pipe and the damaged nuts must be
renewed on reassembly. Always clean a union
and surrounding area before disconnecting it.
If disconnecting a component with more than
one union, make a careful note of the
connections before disturbing any of them.

4 If a brake pipe is to be renewed, then it can
be obtained from Rover dealers, cut to length
and with the union nuts and end flares in
place. All that is then necessary is to bend it
to shape, following the line of the original,
before fitting it to the vehicle. Alternatively,
most motor accessory shops can make up
brake pipes from kits but this requires very
careful measurement of the original to ensure
that the replacement is of the correct length.
The safest answer is usually to take the
original to the shop as a pattern.
5 On refitting, do not overtighten the union
nuts. The specified torque wrench settings,
where given, are not high and it is not
necessary to exercise brute force to obtain a
sound joint. When refitting flexible hoses,
always renew any sealing washers used.
6 Ensure that the pipes and hoses are
correctly routed with no kinks and that they
are secured in the clips or brackets provided.
After fitting, remove the polythene from the
reservoir and bleed the hydraulic system.
Wash off any spilt fluid and check carefully for
fluid leaks.

9

Master cylinder - removal,
overhaul and refitting

4

Warning: Do not syphon brake
fluid by mouth as it is
poisonous. 

Note: Before attempting to overhaul the
master cylinder, check the price and
availability of individual components and
compare this with the price of a new or
reconditioned unit, as overhaul may not be
viable on economic grounds alone.

Removal

1 Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap,
having disconnected the sender unit wiring
connector, and syphon all hydraulic fluid from
the reservoir. Do not syphon the fluid by mouth
as it is poisonous but use a syringe or an old
poultry baster. Alternatively, open any
convenient bleed screw in the system and
gently pump the brake pedal to expel the fluid
through a plastic tube connected to the screw.

9•6 Braking system

8.1  Using a brake hose clamp to minimise

fluid loss

6.21 Using a one-way valve kit to bleed

braking system

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

8.3  Using a brake pipe spanner to

unscrew a union nut

2 Wipe clean the area around the brake pipe
unions on the side of the master cylinder and
place absorbent rags beneath the pipe unions
to catch any surplus fluid. Unscrew the two
union nuts and carefully withdraw the pipes.
Plug or tape over the pipe ends and master
cylinder orifices to minimise loss of brake fluid
and to prevent the entry of dirt into the
system. Wash off any spilt fluid immediately
with cold water.
3 Slacken and remove the two nuts and
washers securing the master cylinder to the
vacuum servo unit then withdraw the unit from
the engine compartment. Remove the O-ring
from the rear of the master cylinder and
discard it.

Overhaul

4 Remove the master cylinder from the
vehicle as described above and clean it
thoroughly.
5 Carefully prise the reservoir from the master
cylinder body and remove the two mounting
seals (see illustrations).
6 Prepare a clean working surface and
proceed as follows.

Non-ABS system

7 Using a wooden dowel, press the primary
piston in as far as possible and extract the

secondary piston stop pin from the reservoir
inlet port, then remove the retaining circlip.
8 Noting the order of removal and the
direction of fitting of each component,
withdraw the piston assemblies with their
springs and seals, tapping the body on to a
clean wooden surface to dislodge them. If
necessary, clamp the master cylinder body in
a vice (fitted with soft jaw covers) and use
compressed air of low pressure (applied
through the secondary circuit fluid port) to
assist the removal of the secondary piston
assembly.
9 Thoroughly clean all components using
only methylated spirit, isopropyl alcohol or
clean hydraulic fluid as a cleaning medium.
Never use mineral-based solvents such as
petrol or paraffin which will attack the
hydraulic system’s rubber components. Dry
the components immediately using
compressed air or a clean, lint-free cloth.
10 Check all components and renew any that
are worn or damaged. Check particularly the
cylinder bores and pistons. The complete
assembly should be renewed if these are
scratched, worn or corroded. If there is any
doubt about the condition of the assembly or
of any of its components, renew it. Check that
the body’s inlet and bypass ports are clear.

11 If the assembly is fit for further use, obtain
a repair kit. Renew all seals and O-rings
disturbed on dismantling, never re-use them.
Renew also any other items included in the
repair kit.
12 On reassembly, soak the pistons and new
seals in clean hydraulic fluid. Smear clean
fluid into the cylinder bore.
13 Fit the new seals to their pistons, using
only the fingers to manipulate them into the
grooves.
14 Insert the pistons into the bore by using a
twisting motion to avoid trapping the seal lips.
Ensure that all components are refitted in the
correct order and the right way round.
15 Press the secondary piston assembly fully
up into the bore using a clean wooden dowel,
then refit the stop pin.
16 Refit the primary piston assembly, then
secure it in position with a new circlip.
17 Press the new mounting seals into the
master cylinder body and carefully refit the
reservoir ensuring that it is pressed fully into
position.

ABS system

18 Carefully prise out the dust cap from the
rear of the master cylinder body and remove
the flat washer.
19 Using a wooden dowel, press the primary

Braking system  9•7

9.5a  Non-ABS master cylinder components

1 Master cylinder reservoir
2 Mounting seals
3 Secondary piston stop pin
4 Master cylinder body

5 Spring
6 Circlip
7 Primary piston
8 Secondary piston

9.5b  ABS master cylinder components

1 Master cylinder

reservoir

2 Mounting seals
3 Master cylinder

body

4 Spring
5 Secondary piston
6 Retaining pin
7 Grub screw
8 Spring

9 Primary piston

10 Washer
11 Circlip
12 Flat washer
13 Dust cap

9

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

piston in as far as possible and extract the
circlip and washer. Withdraw the primary
piston assembly and spring.
20 Undo the grub screw from the underside
of the master cylinder body then use the
wooden dowel to press the secondary 
piston into the body and withdraw the
secondary piston retaining pin. Extract 
the secondary piston assembly and spring. If
necessary, the piston can be dislodged by
tapping the master cylinder body on a
wooden block.
21 Examine and overhaul the master cylinder
components as described above in
paragraphs 9 to 14.
22 Fit the spring to the secondary piston
assembly and use a clean wooden dowel to
press the assembly fully into the master
cylinder bore. Align the slot in the piston with
the retaining pin hole then insert the
secondary piston retaining pin. Refit the grub
screw and tighten it securely.
23 Fit the spring to the primary piston
assembly and press the assembly into position
using the wooden dowel. Refit the washer and
secure the piston assembly in position with the
circlip, ensuring that it is correctly located in its
groove in the master cylinder bore.
24 Fit the flat washer and refit the dust cap to
the rear of the master cylinder body.
25 Align the lugs on the new mounting seals
with the slots in the master cylinder body and
press them into position. Carefully refit the
reservoir, ensuring that it is pressed fully into
the master cylinder body.

Refitting

26 Remove all traces of dirt from the master
cylinder and servo unit mating surfaces, then
fit a new O-ring to the groove on the master
cylinder body.
27 Fit the master cylinder to the servo unit,
ensuring that the servo unit pushrod enters
the master cylinder bore centrally. Refit the
master cylinder washers and mounting nuts
and tighten them to the specified torque.
28 Wipe clean the brake pipe unions then
refit them to the master cylinder ports 
and tighten them to the specified torque
setting.
29 Refill the master cylinder reservoir with
new fluid and bleed the hydraulic system.

10 Front brake pads - 

inspection

Refer to Chapter 1.

11 Front brake pads - 

renewal

2

Warning: Renew both sets of
front brake pads at the same
time. Never renew the pads on

only one wheel as uneven braking may
result. The dust created by pad wear may
contain asbestos, which is a health hazard.

Never blow it with compressed air or
inhale it. An approved filtering mask
should be worn when working on the
brakes. DO NOT use petroleum-based
solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake
cleaner or methylated spirit only.

Removal

1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the
handbrake then jack up the front of the
vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove
both front roadwheels.
2 Remove the lower caliper guide pin bolt
whilst, if necessary, using a slim open-ended
spanner to prevent the guide pin itself from
rotating. Pivot the caliper away from the disc
to gain access to the brake pads and tie it to
the suspension strut using a piece of wire
(see illustrations).
3 Remove the circular shim which is fitted to
the caliper piston (see illustration).
4 Remove the brake pads from the caliper
mounting bracket whilst noting the correct
position of the pad retainer springs and pad
shims (see illustration).
5 Measure the thickness of friction material
remaining on each brake pad (see illustration).
If either pad is worn at any point to the
specified minimum thickness or less, all four
pads must be renewed. Also, the pads should
be renewed if any are fouled with oil or grease
as there is no satisfactory way of degreasing
friction material once contaminated. If any of
the brake pads are worn unevenly or fouled
with oil or grease, trace and rectify the cause
before reassembly. New brake pad kits are
available from Rover dealers and include new
shims and pad retainer springs.
6 If the brake pads are still serviceable,
carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire
brush or similar, paying particular attention to
the sides and back of the metal backing. Clean
out the grooves in the friction material (where
applicable) and pick out any large embedded
particles of dirt or debris. Carefully clean the
pad retainer springs and the pad locations in
the caliper body and mounting bracket.

Fitting

7 Prior to fitting the pads, check that the
guide pins are free to slide easily in the caliper

9•8 Braking system

11.5  Measuring thickness of brake pad

friction material

11.4  Removing pads with springs and

shims

11.3  Removing circular shim from caliper

piston

11.2b  . . . and pivot caliper away from disc

11.2a  Remove lower caliper guide 

pin bolt . . .

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

bracket and check that the rubber guide pin
gaiters are undamaged (see illustration).
Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper and
piston but do not inhale it as it is injurious to
health. Inspect the dust seal around the piston
for damage and the piston for evidence of
fluid leaks, corrosion or damage. Renew as
necessary.
8 On refitting, first fit the pad retainer springs
to the caliper mounting bracket (see
illustration).
9 Apply a thin smear of high-temperature
brake grease (silicone- or PBC/Poly Butyl
Cuprysil-based) or anti-seize compound (eg
Holts Copaslip) to the sides and back of each
pad’s metal backing and to those surfaces of
the caliper body and mounting bracket which
bear on the pads. Fit the shims to the back of
both pads and apply a thin smear of lubricant
to the back of each shim. Do not allow the
lubricant to foul the friction material (see
illustration).
10 Install the brake pads in the caliper
mounting bracket, ensuring that the friction
material is against the disc.
11 If new brake pads have been fitted, the
caliper piston must be pushed back into the
cylinder to make room for them. Either use a
G-clamp or similar tool, or use suitable pieces
of wood as levers. Provided that the master
cylinder reservoir has not been overfilled with
hydraulic fluid there should be no spillage but
keep a careful watch on the fluid level while
retracting the piston. If the fluid level rises
above the MAX level line at any time, the
surplus should be syphoned off or ejected via
a plastic tube connected to the bleed screw.
12 Apply a thin smear of the recommended
lubricant (see above) to the circular shim and
fit the shim to the caliper piston. Pivot the
caliper body down over the brake pads then
refit the bottom guide pin bolt and tighten it to
the specified torque wrench setting.
13 Check that the caliper body slides
smoothly in the mounting bracket, then
depress the brake pedal repeatedly until the
pads are pressed into firm contact with the
brake disc and normal (non-assisted) pedal
pressure is restored.
14 Repeat the above procedure on the
remaining front brake caliper.

15 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the
vehicle to the ground and tighten the
roadwheel nuts to the specified torque
setting.
16 On completion, check the hydraulic fluid
level.

12 Front brake caliper - 

removal, overhaul and refitting

4

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid
may be under considerable
pressure in a pipeline, take care
not to allow hydraulic fluid to

spray into the face or eyes when loosening
a connection.

Removal

1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the
handbrake, jack up the front of the vehicle

and support on axle stands. Remove the
appropriate front roadwheel.
2 Minimise fluid loss either by removing the
master cylinder reservoir cap and then
tightening it down onto a piece of polythene
to obtain an airtight seal (taking care not to
damage the sender unit), or by using a brake
hose clamp, a G-clamp or a similar tool to
clamp the flexible hose.
3 Clean the area around the union, then undo
the brake hose union bolt and disconnect 
the hose from the caliper. Plug the end of the
hose and the caliper orifice to prevent dirt
entering the hydraulic system. Discard the
sealing washers as they must be renewed
whenever disturbed.
4 Unscrew the two caliper guide pin bolts
whilst, if necessary, using a slim open-ended
spanner to prevent the guide pins themselves
from rotating (see illustration).
5 Carefully lift the caliper assembly off the
brake pads and remove the circular shim from

Braking system  9•9

11.9  . . . and fit shims on pads

11.8  Fit pad retainer springs to caliper

bracket . . .

11.7  Check condition of guide pins and

gaiters before refitting pads

12.4  Front brake caliper components

9

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

1 Bleed screw
2 Caliper body
3 Guide pin bolt
4 Guide pin
5 Gaiter
6 Pad retainer spring
7 Caliper mounting

bracket

8 Inner pad shim
9 Brake pads

10 Outer pad shim
11 Piston seal
12 Piston
13 Dust seal
14 Circular shim

the caliper piston. Note that the brake pads
need not be disturbed and can be left in
position in the caliper mounting bracket.

Overhaul

6 With the caliper on the bench, wipe away all
traces of dust and dirt. Avoid inhaling the dust
as it is injurious to health.
7 Withdraw the piston from the caliper body
and remove the dust seal. The piston can be
withdrawn by hand or if necessary, pushed
out by applying compressed air to the union
bolt hole. Only low pressure should be
required such as is generated by a foot pump.
8 Using a small screwdriver, extract the
piston hydraulic seal whilst taking great care
not to damage the caliper bore.
9 Withdraw the guide pins from the caliper
mounting bracket and remove the guide pin
gaiters.
10 Thoroughly clean all components using
only methylated spirit, isopropyl alcohol or
clean hydraulic fluid as a cleaning medium.
Never use mineral-based solvents such as
petrol or paraffin which will attack the
hydraulic system’s rubber components. Dry
the components immediately using
compressed air or a clean, lint-free cloth. Use
compressed air to blow clear the fluid
passages.
11 Check all components and renew any that
are worn or damaged. Check particularly the
cylinder bore and piston. These should be
renewed (note that this means the renewal of
the complete body assembly) if they are
scratched, worn or corroded in any way.
Similarly, check the condition of the guide
pins and their bores in the mounting bracket.
Both guide pins should be undamaged and
(when cleaned) a reasonably tight sliding fit in
the mounting bracket bores. If there is any
doubt about the condition of any component,
renew it.
12 If the assembly is fit for further use, obtain
the appropriate repair kit. Components are
available from Rover dealers in various
combinations.
13 Renew all rubber seals, dust covers and
caps. Also the sealing washers disturbed on
dismantling.
14 On reassembly, ensure that all
components are absolutely clean and dry.

15 Soak the piston and the new piston (fluid)
seal in clean hydraulic fluid. Smear clean fluid
on the cylinder bore surface.
16 Fit the new piston (fluid) seal using only
the fingers to manipulate it into the cylinder
bore groove. Fit the new dust seal to the
piston and refit it to the cylinder bore using a
twisting motion, ensuring that the piston
enters squarely into the bore. Press the piston
fully into the bore, then secure the dust seal to
the caliper body.
17 Apply the grease supplied in the repair kit,
or a good quality high-temperature brake
grease (silicone- or PBC/Poly Butyl Cuprysil-
based) or anti-seize compound (eg Holts
Copaslip), to the guide pins and fit the new
gaiters. Fit the guide pins to the caliper
mounting bracket, ensuring that the gaiters
are correctly located in the grooves on both
the guide pin and mounting bracket.

Refitting

18 Refit the circular shim to the piston and
carefully slide the caliper into position over the
brake pads. Refit the caliper guide pin bolts
and tighten them to the specified torque
setting.
19 Position a new sealing washer on each
side of the hose union and refit the brake hose
union bolt. Ensure that the brake hose union is
correctly positioned between the lugs on the
caliper then tighten the union bolt to the
specified torque setting.
20 Remove the brake hose clamp, where
fitted, and bleed the hydraulic system.
Providing the precautions described were
taken to minimise brake fluid loss, it should
only be necessary to bleed the relevant front
brake.
21 Refit the roadwheel then lower the vehicle
to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts
to the specified torque.

13 Front brake disc - inspection,

removal and refitting

3

Note: If either brake disc requires renewal,
both should be renewed at the same time to
ensure even and consistent braking.

Inspection

1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the
handbrake, jack up the front of the vehicle
and support on axle stands. Remove the
appropriate front roadwheel.
2 Slowly rotate the brake disc so that the full
area of both sides can be checked. Remove
the brake pads if better access is required 
to the inboard surface. Light scoring is normal
in the area swept by the brake pads but if
heavy scoring is found, then the disc must be
renewed. The only alternative to this is to have
the disc surface-ground until it is flat again,
but this must not reduce the disc to less than
the minimum thickness specified.
3 It is normal to find a lip of rust and brake
dust around the disc’s perimeter. This can be
scraped off if required. If, however, a lip has
formed due to excessive wear of the brake
pad swept area, then the disc’s thickness
must be measured by using a micrometer
(see illustration). Take measurements at four
places around the disc at the inside and
outside of the pad swept area. If the disc has
worn at any point to the specified minimum
thickness or less, then it must be renewed.
4 If the disc is thought to be warped, it can be
checked for run-out (at a point 6.0 mm in from
the disc’s outer edge) by either using a dial
gauge mounted on any convenient fixed point,
while the disc is slowly rotated, or by using
feeler gauges to measure (at several points all
around the disc) the clearance between the
disc and a fixed point, such as the caliper
mounting bracket (see illustration). If the
measurements obtained are at the specified
maximum or beyond, the disc is excessively
warped and must be renewed. However, it is
worth checking first that the hub bearing is in
good condition. Also, try the effect of removing
the disc and turning it through 180º to
reposition it on the hub. If run-out is still
excessive the disc must be renewed.
5 Check the disc for cracks, especially
around the stud holes, and any other wear or
damage. Renew it if any of these are found.

Removal

6 Unscrew the two bolts securing the caliper
mounting bracket to the swivel hub and slide the
caliper assembly off the disc (see illustration).

9•10 Braking system

13.6  Removing caliper assembly

13.4  Using a dial gauge to check brake

disc run-out

13.3  Using a micrometer to measure

brake disc thickness

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Using a piece of wire or string, tie the caliper to
the front suspension coil spring to avoid placing
any strain on the hydraulic brake hose.
7 Use chalk or paint to mark the relationship
of the disc to the hub, then remove the two
screws securing the brake disc to the hub and
remove the disc. If the disc is a tight fit on the
hub it can be drawn off by screwing two bolts
into the jacking holes provided (see
illustrations).

Refitting

8 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following:
a)

Ensure that the mating surfaces of the
disc and hub are clean and flat.

b)

Align (if applicable) the marks made on
removal.

c)

If a new disc has been fitted, use a
suitable solvent to wipe any preservative
coating from the disc before refitting the
caliper.

d)

Tighten the disc retaining screws, caliper
bracket bolts and roadwheel nuts to their
specified torque wrench settings.

14 Pressure regulating valve -

testing, removal and refitting

3

Testing

1 The pressure regulating valve is mounted
on the right-hand side of the engine
compartment bulkhead.
2 Specialist equipment is required to check
valve performance. If the valve is thought to
be faulty, the vehicle should be taken to a
suitably equipped Rover dealer for testing.
However, in the event of an internal failure,
brake fluid will seep from the plug on the front
face of the valve which is situated directly
above the lower two hose unions (see
illustration). Repairs are not possible and, if
faulty, the valve must be renewed.

Removal

3 Disconnect the sender unit wiring
connector and unscrew the master cylinder
reservoir filler cap. Place a piece of polythene
over the filler neck and securely refit the cap
(taking care not to damage the sender unit).
This will minimise brake fluid loss during
subsequent operations. As an added
precaution, place absorbent rags beneath the
pressure regulating valve brake pipe unions.
4 Wipe clean the area around the brake pipe
unions on the pressure regulating valve, then
make a note of how the pipes are arranged for
reference on refitting. Unscrew the union nuts
and carefully withdraw the pipes. Plug or tape
over the pipe ends and valve orifices to
minimise the loss of brake fluid and to prevent
the entry of dirt into the system. Wash off any
spilt fluid immediately with cold water.
5 Slacken the two bolts which secure the
valve to the bulkhead and remove it from the
engine compartment.

Refitting

6 Refit the pressure regulating valve to the
bulkhead and tighten its mounting bolts
securely.
7 Wipe the brake pipe unions clean and refit
them to the valve, using the notes made on

dismantling to ensure they are correctly
positioned. Tighten the union nuts to the
specified torque.
8 Remove the polythene from the master
cylinder reservoir filler neck and bleed the
complete hydraulic system.

15 Rear brake shoes -

inspection

Refer to Chapter 1.

16 Rear brake shoes - renewal

3

Warning: Brake shoes must be
renewed on both rear wheels at
the same time. Never renew the

shoes on only one wheel as uneven
braking may result.

Removal

1 Remove the brake drum.
2 Working carefully and noting all
precautions, remove all traces of brake dust
from the brake drum, backplate and shoes.
3 Measure the thickness of friction material
remaining on each brake shoe at several
points. If either shoe is worn at any point to
the specified minimum thickness or less, all
four shoes must be renewed as a set. Also,
the shoes should be renewed if any are fouled
with oil or grease as there is no satisfactory
way of degreasing friction material once
contaminated.
4 If any of the brake shoes are worn unevenly
or fouled with oil or grease, trace and rectify
the cause before reassembly.
5 To remove the brake shoes, first remove
the shoe retainer springs and pins, using a
pair of pliers to press in each retainer clip until
it can be rotated through 90º and released.
Ease the shoes out one at a time from the

Braking system  9•11

14.2  In the event of failure, fluid will seep

from pressure regulating valve plug

(arrowed)

13.7b  Drawing off a disc using two 8 mm bolts

13.7a  Removing disc retaining screws (jacking holes arrowed)

9

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

lower pivot point to release the tension of the
return spring, then disconnect the lower return
spring from both shoes. Ease the upper end
of both shoes out from their wheel cylinder
locations, taking great care not to damage the
wheel cylinder seals, and disconnect the
handbrake cable from the trailing shoe. The
brake shoe and adjuster strut assembly can
now be manoeuvred out of position and away
from the backplate (see illustrations). Do not
depress the brake pedal until the brakes are
reassembled. Wrap a strong elastic band
around the wheel cylinder pistons to retain
them.
6 With the brake shoe assembly on the
worksurface, make a note of the fitted
positions of the adjuster strut and springs to
use as guide on reassembly (see illustration).
Carefully ease the adjuster strut from its slot in
the trailing shoe and remove the short spring
which secures the two components together.
Detach the upper return spring and separate
the shoes and strut.
7 Examine the adjuster strut assembly for
signs of wear or damage, paying particular
attention to the adjuster quadrant and knurled
wheel. If damaged, the strut assembly must
be renewed. Renew all the brake shoe return
springs regardless of their apparent condition.
8 Peel back the rubber protective caps and
check the wheel cylinder for fluid leaks or
other damage.  Check that both cylinder
pistons are free to move easily.

Fitting

9 Prior to fitting, clean the backplate and
apply a thin smear of high-temperature brake
grease (silicone- or PBC/Poly Butyl Cuprysil-
based) or anti-seize compound (eg Holts
Copaslip) to all those surfaces of the
backplate which bear on the shoes,
particularly the adjuster and the wheel
cylinder pistons. Do not allow lubricant to foul
the friction material.
10 Ensure the handbrake lever stop on the
trailing shoe is correctly engaged with the
lever and is pressed tight against the brake
shoe (see illustration).
11 Fully extend the adjuster strut quadrant
and fit the leading brake shoe into the adjuster
strut slot, ensuring that the strut spring and

9•12 Braking system

16.10  Ensure handbrake stop lever is

correctly located

16.6  Correct fitted positions of adjuster

strut and springs

16.5d  . . . and manoeuvre shoe and adjuster

strut assembly away from backplate

16.5c  . . . unhook lower return spring . . .

16.5b  Remove brake shoe retainer 

springs . . .

16.5a  Rear drum brake assembly

1 Brake drum
2 Drum retaining screw
3 Backplate
4 Lower return spring
5 Brake shoe
6 Retainer pin and spring

7 Adjuster strut
8 Strut spring
9 Upper return spring

10 Wheel cylinder retaining

bolt

11 Bleed screw
12 Backplate mounting bolt
13 Seal
14 Wheel cylinder
15 Grommet

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97