Rover 214-414. Service Repair Manual - part 8

41 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following:
a)

Carefully clean the mating surfaces of the
throttle housing and potentiometer.

b)

Refit the potentiometer so that the flat on
the spindle is aligned with the mating
portion of the potentiometer.

c)

When pressing the potentiometer onto
the spindle, apply finger pressure only to
the shaded area shown (see illustration).

d)

Rotate the potentiometer anti-clockwise
only to align the fixing holes.

e)

Tighten the potentiometer screws to their
specified torque wrench setting.

f)

Operate the throttle cam 2 or 3 times 
and ensure that full travel exists
between the throttle open and closed
positions.

Engine management
(ignition/fuel injection) ECU

42 Remove the battery.
43 Undo the three nuts securing the ECU to
its mounting bracket (see illustration).
44 Unplug the two multiplug connectors from
the ECU.
45 Release the securing clip and pull the
vacuum hose from the ECU.
46 Remove the ECU from the vehicle.
47 Refitting the ECU is the reverse of the
removal procedure. If a new or different ECU
has been fitted, it may take a short while for
full idle control to be restored.

Intake air temperature sensor

48 Disconnect the battery earth lead.
49 Disconnect the sensor multiplug and
unscrew the sensor from the inlet manifold
(see illustration).
50 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following:
a)

Thoroughly clean the sensor threads and
mating surfaces.

b)

Tighten the sensor to the specified torque
wrench setting.

Coolant temperature sensor

51 Disconnect the battery earth lead.
52 Either drain the cooling system or be
prepared for some loss of coolant as the
sensor is unscrewed.
53 Disconnect the sensor multiplug (see
illustration).
54 Unscrew the sensor and withdraw it, then
plug the opening to prevent any entry of dirt. If
the cooling system has not been drained,
work quickly to minimise coolant loss.
55 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following:
a)

Thoroughly clean the sensor threads and
mating surfaces.

b)

If a sealing washer is fitted, renew it. If no
sealing washer is fitted, apply a smear of
sealant to the sensor threads.

c)

Tighten the sensor to the specified torque
wrench setting.

d)

On completion, replenish the cooling
system.

Accelerator pedal switch

56 Refer to Section 11 in Part A of this
Chapter.

Fuel cut-off inertia switch

57 Refer to Section 15 in Part B of this
Chapter.

Relays

58 Refer to Chapter 12 for further
information.

15 Inlet manifold pre-heater -

operation, removal and
refitting

1 Refer to Section 15 in Part A of this
Chapter. Note that there is no separate
manifold pre-heater temperature switch. The
ECU uses the information sent from the
coolant temperature sensor.

16 Inlet manifold - 

removal and refitting

3

Alloy inlet manifold

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead.
2 Depressurise the fuel system.
3 Disconnect the hose from the fuel filter,
covering the open connections to prevent any
ingress of dirt.
4 Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the cooling
system.
5 Release the securing clip and detach the
throttle housing-to-air cleaner hose from the
throttle housing.
6 Disconnect the stepper motor and throttle
potentiometer multiplugs (see illustration).
7 Disconnect the breather hose from the
throttle housing.

Fuel and exhaust systems - multi-point fuel injection engines  4C•7

14.49  Intake air temperature sensor

multiplug (arrowed)

14.43  ECU connection points

A

Mounting nuts

B

Multiplug connectors

C

Vacuum hose

14.41 When pressing potentiometer onto

spindle, apply finger pressure only to

shaded area

16.6  Disconnecting stepper motor

multiplug

14.53  Coolant temperature sensor

multiplug (arrowed)

4C

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

8 Release the retaining clip and disconnect
the breather pipe from the manifold chamber
(see illustration).
9 Release the retaining clips and disconnect
the three breather hoses from the manifold
chamber  (see illustration, also illus-
tration 16.8).
10 Unscrew the brake servo line banjo bolt
from the manifold chamber, discarding both
sealing washers (see illustration).
11 Remove the five bolts securing the
manifold chamber to the inlet manifold. 
12 Remove the support stay to manifold
chamber securing bolt.
13 Detach the manifold chamber from the
inlet manifold and discard its gasket.
14 Remove the engine oil dipstick, covering
the open pipe to prevent any ingress of dirt.
15 Disconnect the four fuel injector
multiplugs and the intake air temperature
sensor multiplug.
16 Release the coolant hose from the inlet
manifold (see illustration).
17 Remove the two nuts and three bolts
securing the upper face of the inlet manifold
to the cylinder head, loosening each one a
little at a time.
18 Remove the two bolts securing the engine
wiring harness brackets to the inlet manifold.
19 Release the two clips which secure the
fuel return hose.

20 Remove the bolt securing the support
stay to the inlet manifold.
21 Remove the four bolts securing the lower
face of the inlet manifold to the cylinder head,
loosening each one a little at a time.
22 Remove the inlet manifold, discarding the
gasket.

Refitting

23 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following:
a)

Thoroughly clean all component parts,
paying particular attention to the mating
surfaces.

b)

Always fit a new manifold gasket.

c)

Working in the sequence shown (see
illustration), tighten the manifold
retaining nuts and bolts evenly to the
specified torque wrench setting.

d)

Tighten all disturbed fasteners to their
specified torque wrench settings (where
given).

e)

Renew all sealing washers and O-rings. 

f)

Remove all masking materials.

g)

Ensure all hose connections are securely
remade.

h)

Ensure the brake servo line banjo union
alignment tang is located in the manifold
chamber slot.

i)

Refill the cooling system and check the
coolant level, then wash off any spilt
coolant.

Plastic inlet manifold

Removal

24 Disconnect the battery earth lead.

25 Depressurise the fuel system.
26 Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the cooling
system.
27 Release the securing clip and detach the
throttle housing-to-air cleaner hose from the
air cleaner.
28 Release the retaining clip and detach the
purge hose from the inlet manifold (see
illustration).
29 Disconnect the breather hose from the
throttle housing after loosening its retaining
clip. 
30 Disconnect the multiplug from the throttle
potentiometer.
31 Loosen the stepper motor hose-to-
abutment retaining clip and detach the hose,
moving it to one side.
32 Release the accelerator cable from its
retaining clip on the right-hand side of the
manifold.
33 Remove the four bolts securing the
throttle housing to the inlet manifold.
34 Detach the throttle housing from the
manifold and discard its sealing ring.
35 Disconnect the multiplug from the stepper
motor.
36 Release the breather hose from the inlet
manifold and depress the plastic collar of the
brake servo hose quick-fit connector to

4C•8 Fuel and exhaust systems - multi-point fuel injection engines

16.28  Throttle housing connections -

plastic inlet manifold

A

Purge hose

B

Breather hose

C

Throttle potentiometer

D

Stepper motor hose

16.23  Alloy inlet manifold tightening

sequence

16.10  Brake servo line banjo union

A

Sealing washers

B

Union alignment tang in manifold
chamber slot

16.16  Releasing coolant hose from inlet

manifold

16.9  Disconnect breather hoses (arrowed)

from manifold chamber

16.8  Disconnect breather pipe (A) from

manifold chamber

B  Manifold chamber breather hose (1 of 3)

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

release it from the manifold (see
illustrations).
37 Disconnect the ECU vacuum pipe from
the manifold.
38 Loosen the retaining clip and disconnect
the fuel return hose from the fuel rail, covering
the open connections to prevent any ingress
of dirt (see illustration).
39 Disconnect the coolant system expansion
tank hose from the inlet manifold.
40 Release the fuel return hose from its
retaining clips.
41 Disconnect the injector harness and air
temperature sensor multiplugs.
42 Remove the two bolts which secure the
fuel feed pipe to the fuel rail and release the
pipe from the rail. Discard the O-ring and
cover the open connections to prevent any
ingress of dirt.
43 Working from the centre of the manifold
outwards, progressively loosen the manifold
securing nuts and bolts. Remove the
manifold, discarding the gasket.

Refitting

44 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following:
a)

Thoroughly clean all component parts,
paying particular attention to the mating
surfaces.

b)

Ensure that a metal insert is located in
each manifold stud or bolt hole.

c)

Always fit a new manifold gasket (see
illustration).

d)

Working in the sequence shown (see
illustration), tighten the manifold

retaining nuts and bolts evenly to the
specified torque wrench setting.

e)

Tighten all disturbed fasteners to their
specified torque wrench settings (where
given).

f)

Fit new O-rings, lubricating them with
silicone grease. 

g)

Remove all masking materials.

h)

Ensure all hose connections are securely
remade.

i)

Refill the cooling system and check the
coolant level, then wash off any spilt
coolant.

17 Exhaust manifold - 

removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the air cleaner assembly.
3 Remove the alternator.
4 Referring to Part D of this Chapter, release
the lambda sensor multiplug from the gearbox
bracket and disconnect the plug from the
sensor.
5 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands.
6 Unscrew the nuts securing the exhaust
front pipe to the manifold, then disconnect the
pipe and collect the gasket.

7 Undo the five nuts securing the exhaust
manifold to the cylinder head, then carefully
manoeuvre the manifold out of the engine
compartment. Remove the manifold gasket
and discard it.
8 Examine all the exhaust manifold studs for
signs of damage and corrosion. Remove all
traces of corrosion and repair or renew any
damaged studs.

Refitting

9 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following:
a)

Ensure that the manifold and cylinder
head sealing faces are clean and flat, then
fit a new manifold gasket.

b)

Working in the sequence shown (see
illustration), tighten the manifold
retaining nuts evenly to the specified
torque wrench setting.

c)

Tighten all other disturbed nuts and bolts
to their specified torque wrench settings
(where given).

18 Exhaust system -

inspection,removal and
refitting

1 Refer to Section 18 in Part A of this
Chapter. Note that on models fitted with a
closed-loop catalytic converter, the lambda
sensor must be removed or its wiring
disconnected whenever the exhaust system
front pipe is disconnected from the manifold.

Fuel and exhaust systems - multi-point fuel injection engines  4C•9

16.38  Disconnect fuel return hose (A) and

expansion tank hose (B)

16.36b . . . and depress plastic collar

(arrowed) of brake servo hose quick-fit

connector to release from manifold

A  ECU vacuum pipe

17.9  Exhaust manifold tightening

sequence

16.44b  Plastic inlet manifold tightening

sequence

16.44a  Fit a new inlet manifold gasket

(arrowed)

4C

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

16.36a  Release breather hose 

(arrowed) . . .

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

4D

Chapter 4 Part D
Emission control systems

Catalytic converters - general information and precautions  . . . . . . .

2

Emission control system components - testing and renewal  . . . . . .

3

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

4D•1

Contents

Specifications

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Lambda sensor  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

55

41

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1

1

General information

Apart from their ability to use unleaded

petrol and the various features which help to
minimise emissions and are built into the fuel
system, all models have at least the
crankcase emission-control system described
below. Models equipped with a catalytic
converter are also fitted with the exhaust and
evaporative emission control system.

Crankcase emission control

To reduce the emission of unburned

hydrocarbons from the crankcase into the
atmosphere, the engine is sealed and the
blow-by gases and oil vapour are drawn from

the crankcase, through a wire mesh oil
separator in the cylinder head cover, into the
inlet tract to be burned by the engine during
normal combustion. On carburettor engines, a
single breather hose connects the cylinder
head cover to the carburettor continuous-
depression area. On fuel-injected engines, a
small-bore breather hose connects the
cylinder head cover to the throttle body
downstream of the throttle disc, while a
larger-bore hose is connected above the
throttle disc so that the same effect is
obtained at all states of manifold depression.

Under conditions of high manifold

depression (idling, deceleration), the gases
will be sucked positively out of the crankcase.
Under conditions of low manifold depression
(acceleration, full-throttle running), the gases
are forced out of the crankcase by the
(relatively) higher crankcase pressure. If the

engine is worn, the raised crankcase pressure
(due to increased blow-by) will cause some of
the flow to return under all manifold
conditions.

Evaporative emission control

To minimise the escape into the

atmosphere of unburned hydrocarbons, an
evaporative emissions control system is fitted
to models equipped with a catalytic converter.
The fuel tank filler cap is sealed and a
charcoal canister is mounted in the engine
compartment to collect the petrol vapours
generated in the tank when the vehicle is
parked. It stores them until they can be
cleared from the canister (under the control of
the fuel-injection/ignition system ECU via the
purge control valve) into the inlet tract to be
burned by the engine during normal
combustion.

To ensure that the engine runs correctly

when it is cold and/or idling and to protect the
catalytic converter from the effects of an over-
rich mixture, the purge control valve is not
opened by the ECU until the engine has
warmed up to above 70

∞

C, the engine speed

exceeds 1500 rpm and manifold absolute
pressure is below 30 kPa. The valve solenoid
is then modulated on and off to allow the
stored vapour to pass into the inlet tract.

Exhaust emission control

To minimise the amount of pollutants which

escape into the atmosphere, some models
are fitted with a catalytic converter in the
exhaust system. Either an open-loop control
system, which has no feedback from the
converter to the fuel system, or a closed-loop
control system, in which the lambda sensor in
the exhaust system provides the fuel-
injection/ignition system ECU with constant
feedback (which enables it to adjust the
mixture to provide the best possible
conditions for the converter to operate) may
be fitted.

If a lambda sensor is fitted, it has a heating

element built-in that is controlled by the ECU
through the lambda sensor relay to quickly
bring the sensor’s tip to an efficient operating
temperature. The sensor’s tip is sensitive to
oxygen and sends the ECU a varying voltage
depending on the amount of oxygen in the
exhaust gases. If the intake air/fuel mixture is
too rich, the exhaust gases are low in oxygen
so the sensor sends a low-voltage signal, the
voltage rises as the mixture weakens and the
amount of oxygen rises in the exhaust gases.
Peak conversion efficiency of all major
pollutants occurs if the intake air/fuel mixture
is maintained at the chemically-correct ratio
for the complete combustion of petrol of 
14.7 parts (by weight) of air to 1 part of fuel
(the stoichiometric ratio). The sensor output
voltage alters in a large step at this point, the
ECU using the signal change as a reference
point and correcting the intake air/fuel mixture
accordingly by altering the fuel injector pulse
width.

2

Catalytic converters - general
information and precautions

The catalytic converter is a reliable and

simple device which needs no maintenance in
itself but there are some facts of which an
owner should be aware if the converter is to
function properly for its full service life.
a)

DO NOT use leaded petrol in a vehicle
equipped with a catalytic converter.

b)

Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
well-maintained in accordance with the
manufacturer’s schedule.

c)

If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the vehicle at all (or at least as little
as possible) until the fault is cured.

d)

DO NOT push-start or tow-start the
vehicle.

e)

DO NOT switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds.

f)

DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives.

g)

DO NOT continue to use the vehicle if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke.

h)

Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures, hence
the heat shields on the vehicle’s
underbody, and the casing will become
hot enough to ignite combustible
materials which brush against it. DO NOT,
therefore, park the vehicle in dry
undergrowth, over long grass or piles of
dead leaves.

i)

Remember that the catalytic converter is
FRAGILE. DO NOT strike it with tools
during servicing work, take great care
when working on the exhaust system,
ensure that the converter is well clear of
any jacks or other lifting gear used to raise
the vehicle and do not drive the vehicle
over rough ground, road humps, etc. in
such a way as to ground the exhaust
system.

j)

In some cases, particularly when the
vehicle is new and/or is used for stop/start
driving, a sulphurous smell (like that of
rotten eggs) may be noticed from the
exhaust. Once the vehicle has covered a
few thousand miles the problem should
disappear. In the meantime, a change of
driving style or of the brand of petrol used
may effect a solution.

k)

The catalytic converter, used on a well-
maintained and well-driven vehicle,
should last for between 50 000 and
100 000 miles.

3

Emission control system
components - testing and
renewal

5

Crankcase emission control

1 The components of this system require no
attention other than to check that all hoses

are clear and that the wire mesh oil separators
are flushed clean with a suitable solvent
whenever the cylinder head cover is removed
(see illustration).

Evaporative emission control

Testing

2 If the system is thought to be faulty,
disconnect the hoses from the charcoal
canister and purge control valve and check
that they are clear by blowing through them. If
the purge control valve or charcoal canister
are thought to be faulty, they must be
renewed. Note that the purge control valve
may either be separate from, or mounted on
top of, the charcoal canister. 

Charcoal canister (purge valve
separate) - renewal

3 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
4 Note the fitted positions of the canister
hoses, then use a suitable pair of pliers to
release the retaining clips (where fitted) and
disconnect all the hoses from the canister
(see illustration).
5 Lift the canister up to free it from its
mounting bracket then remove it from the
engine compartment.
6 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that all hoses are correctly
refitted and, where necessary, securely held
by their retaining clips.

Charcoal canister/purge valve
assembly - renewal

7 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

4D•2 Emission control systems

3.4  Charcoal canister hose connections

1

Vacuum hose

2

Outlet hose - canister to purge valve

3

Inlet hose - fuel tank to canister

4

Charcoal canister

5

Drain hose

3.1  Clean oil separators whenever cylinder

head cover is removed

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

8 Disconnect the multiplug from the purge
valve (see illustration).
9 Release the securing clip and disconnect
the hose from the purge valve. 
10 Note the fitted positions of the canister
fuel and vent hoses, then use a suitable pair of
pliers to release the retaining clips (where
fitted) and disconnect both hoses from the
canister.
11 Release the securing strap and remove
the canister/purge valve assembly.
12 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that all hoses are correctly
refitted and, where necessary, securely held
by their retaining clips.

Purge valve (charcoal canister
separate)  - renewal

13 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
then disconnect the wiring connector from the
purge valve (see illustration).
14 Release the retaining clips and disconnect
the inlet and outlet hoses from the valve.
15 Prise out the C-clip which secures the
inlet hose adaptor to the mounting bracket,
then withdraw the adaptor, noting the O-ring
which is fitted between the adaptor and purge
valve. Discard the O-ring which must be
renewed.
16 Undo the bolt securing the purge valve to
its mounting bracket and remove the valve
from the vehicle.
17 Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure. Use a new inlet hose adaptor O-
ring.

Purge valve (on charcoal canister)  -
renewal

18 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
19 Disconnect the multiplug from the purge
valve.
20 Release the securing clip and disconnect
the hose from the purge valve. 
21 Pull the valve from its location on the
canister and discard its O-ring (see
illustration).
22 Refitting the valve is the reverse of the
removal procedure, noting the following:
a)

Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces.

b)

Fit a new O-ring to the valve. 

c)

Ensure all connections are secure.

Exhaust emission control

23 If the CO level reading is too high (or if any
other symptom is encountered which causes
you to suspect a fault in the exhaust emission
control system), always check first that the air
cleaner filter element is clean, the spark plugs
are in good condition and correctly gapped,
that the engine breather and vacuum hoses
are clear and undamaged, and that the
accelerator cable is correctly adjusted. If the
engine is running very roughly, check its
compression pressures, bearing in mind the
possibility that one of the hydraulic tappets
might be faulty, producing an incorrect valve
clearance. Check also that all wiring is in good
condition, with securely-fastened connectors,
that the fuel filter (fuel-injected engines only)
has been renewed at the recommended
intervals and that the exhaust system is
entirely free of air leaks which might upset the
operation of the catalytic converter. Only
when all these have been checked and found
to be in serviceable condition should the
converter be suspected.

Testing - open-loop system

24 The performance of the catalytic
converter can be checked only by using a
good-quality, carefully-calibrated exhaust gas
analyser.
25 Check that the CO level is as specified at
the gas-sampling pipe when the engine is fully
warmed-up to normal operating temperature.
If not, check the fuel and ignition systems until
the fault is found and the level is restored to
its correct value.
26 Once the CO level is known to be correct
upstream of the catalytic converter, take the
vehicle on a brisk 4-mile road test and check
the CO level at the tailpipe immediately on
return. It should be significantly lower than the

level at the gas-sampling pipe (below 0.5 %
approximately on fuel-injected engines,
slightly higher on carburettor engines).
27 If the tailpipe CO level is little different
from that at the gas-sampling pipe, repeat the
check ensuring that it is made immediately on
return from road test or the converter may not
be at normal operating temperature and will
not have reached its peak conversion
efficiency. If the results are the same, the
catalytic converter is proven faulty and must
be renewed.

Testing - closed-loop system

28 The performance of the catalytic
converter can be checked only by using a
good-quality, carefully-calibrated exhaust gas
analyser.
29 Where a gas-sampling pipe is fitted, the
test described above can be carried out. If the
CO level at the tailpipe is little different from
that at the gas-sampling pipe, the catalytic
converter is probably faulty and must be
renewed, once the fuel-injection and ignition
systems have been checked thoroughly using
Rover diagnostic equipment and are known to
be free from faults.
30 If a gas-sampling pipe is not fitted and the
CO level at the tailpipe is too high, the
complete fuel-injection and ignition systems
must be checked thoroughly by using Rover
diagnostic equipment. Once these have been
checked and are known to be free from faults,
the fault must be in the catalytic converter,
which must be renewed.

Catalytic converter - renewal

31 Refer to Section 18 in Part A of this
Chapter.

Lambda (oxygen) sensor - operational
check

32 The manufacturer’s maintenance
schedule calls for regular checks of the
lambda sensor’s operation. This can be done
only by attaching Rover diagnostic equipment
to the sensor wiring and checking that the
voltage varies from low to high values when
the engine is running. Do not attempt to test
any part of the system with anything other
than the correct test equipment.

Emission control systems  4D•3

3.21  Renew purge valve O-ring (arrowed)

3.13  Purge valve assembly

1 Wiring connector
2 Inlet hose -

charcoal canister
to purge valve

3 Outlet hose -

purge valve to
throttle housing

4 C-clip
5 Inlet hose

connector

6 O-ring
7 Purge valve

3.8  Disconnecting multiplug from purge

valve

A  Hose securing clip

4D

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Lambda sensor - renewal

33 Note that the lambda sensor is delicate
and will not work if it is dropped or knocked, if
its power supply is disrupted, or if any
cleaning materials are used on it.
34 Disconnect the battery earth lead.
35 Release the sensor’s wiring connector
from the bracket on the gearbox and unplug it
to disconnect the sensor (see illustration).
36 Raising and supporting the front of the
vehicle, if required, to remove the sensor from

underneath, unscrew the sensor from the
exhaust system front pipe. Retain its sealing
washer.
37 On refitting, clean the sealing washer and
renew it if it is damaged or worn, then refit the
sensor, tightening it to its specified torque
wrench setting. Reconnect the wiring and refit
the connector plug.

Lambda sensor relay - general

38 Refer to Chapter 12.

4D•4 Emission control systems

3.35  Lambda sensor viewed from above

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

3

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

Air conditioning compressor drivebelt - inspection, adjustment 

and renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Air conditioning refrigerant - level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Air conditioning system components - removal and refitting  . . . . . . 15
Coolant pump - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

Cooling system - draining, flushing and filling  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

Cooling system - general inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

Cooling system electrical switches - testing, removal and refitting  .

9

Cooling system hoses - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

Electric cooling fan - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

General information and precautions  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

Heater components - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Heater controls - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Heater ducts and vents - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Radiator and expansion tank - removal, inspection and refitting  . . .

5

Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

3•1

Contents

Specifications

System

Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Pressurised, pump-assisted thermo-syphon with front mounted
radiator and thermostatically-controlled electric cooling fan

Thermostat

Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Wax

Start to open temperature  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

76 to 80°C

Fully open temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

82 or 88°C (actual value stamped in unit end)

Full lift height  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9.0 mm

Expansion tank

Cap pressure  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.9 to 1.0 bar

Cooling fan

Operating temperature  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

88 to 92°C

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Cooling system

Fan motor nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

4

Temperature gauge sender unit  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

15

11

Thermostat housing cover bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

7

Thermostat housing/dipstick tube-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolt . . .

9

7

Coolant rail-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

7

Coolant pump-to-timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover bolt  . . . . . .

9

7

Coolant pump-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Heating system

Heater lower mounting nut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

21

15

Heater blower motor mounting bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Air conditioning system

Compressor mounting bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Condenser unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

17

13

Evaporator inlet union (from receiver drier)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

17

13

Evaporator outlet union  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

33

24

Receiver drier union  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

17

13

Trinary switch  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12

9

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1

1

General information and
precautions

General information

The cooling system is of the pressurised,

pump-assisted thermo-syphon type. It
consists of the front-mounted radiator, a
translucent expansion tank mounted on the
right-hand inner wing, a thermostatically-
controlled electric cooling fan mounted on the
rear of the radiator, a thermostat and a
centrifugal coolant pump, as well as the
connecting hoses (see illustration). The
coolant pump is driven by the engine timing
belt.

The system is of the by-pass type, allowing

coolant to circulate around the engine while
the thermostat is closed. With the engine
cold, the thermostat closes off the coolant
feed from the bottom radiator hose. Coolant is
then drawn into the engine via the heater
matrix, inlet manifold and from the top of the
cylinder block. This allows some heat transfer,
by convection, to the radiator through the top

hose whilst retaining the majority of heat
within the cylinder block.

The siting of the thermostat in the intake

rather than the outlet side of the system
ensures that the engine warms up quickly by
circulating a small amount of coolant around a
shorter tract. This also prevents temperature
build-up in the cylinder head prior to the
thermostat opening.

When the coolant reaches a predetermined

temperature, the thermostat opens and the
coolant is allowed to flow freely through the
top hose to the radiator. As the coolant
circulates through the radiator, it is cooled by
the inrush of air when the vehicle is in forward
motion. Airflow is supplemented by the action
of the electric cooling fan when necessary.
Upon reaching the bottom of the radiator, the
coolant is now cooled and the cycle is
repeated.

With the engine at normal operating

temperature, the coolant expands and some
of it is displaced into the expansion tank. This
coolant collects in the tank and is returned to
the radiator when the system cools.

The electric cooling fan mounted behind

the radiator is controlled by a thermostatic

switch located in the radiator side tank. 
At a predetermined coolant temperature 
the switch contacts close, thus actuating the
fan.

Precautions

Cooling system

Do not attempt to remove the expansion

tank filler cap or to disturb any part of the
cooling system whilst it or the engine is hot,
as there is a very great risk of scalding. If the
expansion tank filler cap must be removed
before the engine and radiator have fully
cooled down (even though this is not
recommended) the pressure in the cooling
system must first be released. Cover the cap
with a thick layer of cloth, to avoid scalding,
and slowly unscrew the filler cap until a
hissing sound can be heard. When the hissing
has stopped, showing that pressure is
released, slowly unscrew the filler cap until 
it can be removed. If more hissing sounds 
are heard, wait until they have stopped 
before unscrewing the cap completely. At 
all times keep well away from the filler
opening.

Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact

with your skin or painted surfaces of the
vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with
plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying
around, it is fatal if ingested.

If the engine is hot, the electric cooling fan

may start rotating even if the engine is not
running, so be careful to keep hands, hair and
loose clothing well clear when working in the
engine compartment.

Air conditioning system

On models equipped with an air

conditioning system, it is necessary to
observe special precautions whenever dealing
with any part of the system, its associated
components and any items which necessitate
disconnection of the system. If for any reason
the system must be disconnected, entrust this
task to your Rover dealer or a refrigeration
engineer.

Refrigerant must not be allowed to come in

contact with a naked flame, otherwise a
poisonous gas will be created. Do not allow
the fluid to come in contact with the skin or
eyes.

2

Cooling system - draining,
flushing and refilling

Refer to Chapter 1.

3

Cooling system - 
general inspection

Refer to “Weekly Checks” and Chapter 1.

3•2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

1.0  Cooling system components

1 Radiator
2 Cooling fan and cowling
3 Radiator mounting

rubbers

4 Bottom hose
5 Top hose
6 Coolant pipe - bottom

hose to thermostat
housing

7 Thermostat housing 

cover

8 Gasket

9 Thermostat

10 Thermostat housing
11 O-ring
12 Coolant pump
13 Expansion tank
14 Hose - heater matrix and

manifold return

15 Hose - heater matrix and

manifold feed

16 Heater temperature

control valve

17 Coolant filler stem

18 Cooling system bleed

screw

19 Engine overheat switch -

where fitted

20 Coolant pipe - expansion

tank to bottom hose

21 Hose - expansion tank

return

22 Sealing ring
23 Cooling fan thermostatic

switch

24 Locking ring

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

4

Cooling system hoses -
renewal

2

1 If inspection of the cooling system reveals a
faulty hose, then it must be renewed as
follows.
2 First drain the cooling system. If the coolant
is not due for renewal, it may be re-used if
collected in a clean container.
3 To disconnect any hose, use a screwdriver
to slacken the clips then move them along the
hose clear of the outlet. Carefully work the
hose off its outlets. Do not attempt to
disconnect any part of the system when still
hot.
4 Note that the radiator hose outlets are
fragile. Do not use excessive force when
attempting to remove the hoses. If a hose
proves stubborn, try to release it by rotating it
on its outlets before attempting to work it off.
If all else fails, cut the hose with a sharp knife
then slit it so that it can be peeled off in two
pieces. While expensive, this is preferable to
buying a new radiator.
5 When refitting a hose, first slide the clips
onto the hose then work the hose onto its
outlets. If the hose is stiff, use soap as a
lubricant or soften it by first soaking it in
boiling water whilst taking care to prevent
scalding.
6 Work each hose end fully onto its outlet,
check that the hose is settled correctly and is
properly routed, then slide each clip along the
hose until it is behind the outlet flared end
before tightening it securely.
7 Refill the system with coolant.
8 Check carefully for leaks as soon as
possible after disturbing any part of the
cooling system.

5

Radiator and expansion tank
- removal, inspection and
refitting

2

Removal

Radiator

1 Drain the cooling system.
2 On models equipped with air conditioning,
remove the condenser fan, then undo the two
bolts securing the air conditioning pipes to the
bonnet platform.
3 Remove the air cleaner metal intake duct
and intake hose.
4 Disconnect the radiator cooling fan wiring
connector, then slacken and remove the bolt

securing the earth leads to the bonnet platform.
Disconnect the wiring from the thermostatic
switch(es) which are fitted to the right-hand
side of the radiator (see illustrations).
5 Slacken the bottom hose retaining clip and
disconnect the hose from the radiator.
6 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
the top hose from both the radiator and
engine coolant elbow (see illustrations).
Position the hose clear of the radiator so that
it does not hinder removal.
7 Undo the two bolts securing the upper
mounting brackets to the bonnet platform and
remove the brackets from the radiator.
Disengage the radiator from its lower mounting
points and carefully manoeuvre it out of the
engine compartment (see illustrations).

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems  3•3

5.6a  Slacken clips and disconnect top

hose from radiator . . .

5.4b  Disconnecting wiring connector from

radiator switch

5.7a  Undo radiator mounting bolts . . .

5.6b  . . . and engine coolant elbow

5.7c  . . . and manoeuvre radiator out of

engine compartment

5.7b  . . . remove mounting brackets . . .

5.4a  Disconnect cooling fan wiring

connector then remove earth lead

retaining bolt (arrowed)

3

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Never work on the cooling
system when it is hot.
Release any pressure from
the system by loosening the

expansion tank cap, having first
covered it with a cloth to avoid any
possibility of scalding. 

Expansion tank

8 Slacken and remove the three bolts
securing the expansion tank to the body.
Unscrew the expansion tank cap and tip out
its contents into a suitable container.
9 Slacken the retaining clips then disconnect
both the hoses from the expansion tank and
remove the tank from the vehicle.

Inspection

Radiator

10 If the radiator was removed because of
clogging (causing overheating) then try
reverse flushing or, in severe cases, use a
radiator cleanser strictly in accordance with
the manufacturer’s instructions. Ensure 
that the cleanser is suitable for use in a
copper/brass radiator. Refer to Chapter 1 for
further information
11 Use a soft brush and an air line or garden
hose to clear the radiator matrix of leaves,
insects etc.

12 Major leaks or extensive damage should
be repaired by a specialist, or the radiator
should be renewed or exchanged for a
reconditioned unit.
13 Examine the mounting rubbers for signs
of damage or deterioration and renew if
necessary.

Expansion tank

14 Empty any remaining coolant from the
tank and flush it with fresh water to clean it. If
the tank is leaking it must be renewed but it is
worth first attempting a repair using a
proprietary sealant or suitable adhesive.
15 The expansion tank cap should be
cleaned and checked whenever it is removed.
Check that its sealing surfaces and threads
are clean and undamaged and that they mate
correctly with those of the expansion tank.
16 The cap’s performance can only be
checked by using a cap pressure-tester
(cooling system tester) with a suitable

adaptor. On applying pressure, the cap’s
pressure relief valve should hold until the
specified pressure is reached, at which point
the valve should open.
17 If there is any doubt about the cap’s
performance, then it must be renewed. Ensure
that the replacement is of the correct type and
rating.

Refitting

Radiator

18 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure whilst noting the following:
a)

Ensure that the radiator is seated
correctly and without strain on its
mountings.

b)

Ensure that the radiator hoses are
securely held by the retaining clips.

c)

Ensure that all wiring connectors are
correctly routed so that they are clear of
the cooling fan and are retained by any
necessary clips or ties.

d)

Refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.

Expansion tank

19 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure whilst noting the following:
a)

Ensure that all hoses are correctly routed
with no kinks or sharp bends and are
securely held by the retaining clips.

b)

Top up the expansion tank as described
in Chapter 1.

6

Thermostat - 
removal, testing and refitting

3

Removal

1 Note that access to the thermostat is very
limited. Depending on the tools available, it
may be easier to raise the front of the vehicle
and to work from underneath, ensuring that
the vehicle is securely supported on axle
stands. In most cases, access is better if the
air cleaner and carburettor (or throttle body on
SPi engines) are removed and is best if the
complete inlet manifold is removed. If the inlet
manifold is removed, the thermostat housing

cover can be unbolted to remove the
thermostat without disturbing the housing
itself (see illustration). Whichever method is
used, first drain the cooling system.
2 On carburettor models equipped with a
catalytic converter, either remove the
thermostatically-operated vacuum switch or
disconnect the vacuum pipes from the switch
so that it can be removed with the thermostat
housing.
3 Unbolt the coolant rail from the rear of the
cylinder block/crankcase, then slacken the
clips and disconnect the coolant rail hose and
heater/inlet manifold return hose from the
thermostat housing (see illustration).
4 Undo the thermostat housing/dipstick tube-
to-cylinder block/crankcase bolt and remove
the thermostat housing from the cylinder
block/crankcase. Remove the housing O-ring
which must be renewed whenever it is
disturbed (see illustrations).
5 Slacken and remove the three thermostat
housing cover bolts and lift off the housing
cover. Discard the gasket and remove the
thermostat.

Testing

6 If the thermostat remains in the open
position at room temperature, then it is faulty
and must be renewed.
7 To test it fully, suspend the (closed)
thermostat on a length of string in a container
of cold water, with a thermometer beside it.

3•4 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

6.4b  . . . and withdraw thermostat housing

(O-ring arrowed) – inlet manifold removed

for clarity

6.4a  . . . unscrew dipstick tube retaining

bolt . . .

6.3  Disconnect coolant rail and

heater/inlet manifold hoses (arrowed) . . .

6.1  Thermostat can be removed without

disturbing housing if inlet manifold is first

removed

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Minor leaks from the
radiator can be cured using
a suitable sealant with the
radiator in situ. 

Ensure that neither touches the side of the
container (see illustration).
8 Heat the water and check the temperature
at which the thermostat begins to open.
Compare this value with that specified.
Continue to heat the water until the
thermostat is fully open. The temperature at
which this should happen is stamped in the
unit’s end (see illustration). Remove the
thermostat and measure the height of the fully
opened valve, then allow the thermostat to
cool down and check that it closes fully.
9 If the thermostat does not open and close
as described, if it sticks in either position, or if
it does not open at the specified temperature,
then it must be renewed.

Refitting

10 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following (see
illustration):
a)

Clean the thermostat housing, housing
cover and cylinder block/crankcase
mating surfaces thoroughly.

b)

Always fit a new housing cover gasket
and O-ring. Smear the O-ring with grease
to aid refitting.

c)

Tighten all bolts to their specified torque
wrench settings (where given).

d)

Ensure the coolant hose clips are
positioned so that they do not foul any
other component, then tighten them
securely.

e)

Refit any components removed for
improved access.

f)

Refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.

7

Coolant pump - 
removal and refitting

4

Removal

1 Coolant pump failure is usually indicated by
coolant leaking from the gland behind the
pump bearing, or by rough and noisy
operation, usually accompanied by excessive
pump spindle play. If the pump shows any of
these symptoms then it must be renewed as
follows.
2 Drain the cooling system.
3 Remove the timing belt.
4 Noting the location of the pillar bolt(s),
unscrew the five bolts securing the coolant
pump to the cylinder block/crankcase, then
unscrew the single bolt securing the pump to
the timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover.
5 Withdraw the coolant pump and discard its
sealing ring which should be renewed
whenever it is disturbed. Carefully clean the
cylinder block/crankcase mating surface and
the pump socket (see illustration).

Refitting

6 On refitting, install the pump using a new
sealing ring and tighten all bolts to the
specified torque wrench settings.
7 The remainder of the refitting procedure is
the reverse of removal.

8

Electric cooling fan - 
testing, removal and refitting

2

Note:

On models equipped with air

conditioning, there are two switches fitted to
the right-hand side of the radiator, the lower of
these is  the cooling fan switch.

Testing

1 The cooling fan motor is supplied with
current via the ignition switch, fuse 4 and the
cooling fan relay. The relay is energised by the
radiator-mounted thermostatic switch which
is fed via fuse number 15.

2 If the fan does not appear to work, first
check that both fuses are in good condition
and have not blown. Run the engine until
normal operating temperature is reached,
then allow it to idle. If the fan does not cut in
within a few minutes, switch off the ignition
and disconnect the two wires from the
thermostatic switch. Bridge these two wires
with a length of spare wire and switch on the
ignition. If the fan now operates, the
thermostatic switch is probably faulty and
must be tested further as described in
Section 9.
3 If the fan still fails to operate, check that full
battery voltage is available at the switch’s
light green and grey wire terminal. If not,
check the feed for a blown fuse or other fault
such as a broken wire. If the feed is good,
check the cooling fan relay, see Chapter 12. If
the relay operates correctly, check for
continuity between the fan motor black wire
terminal and a good earth point on the body. If
not, then the earth connection is faulty and
must be remade. The circuit earth connection
is one of those at earth header 1, attached to
the left-hand inner wing panel next to the
battery.
4 If the switch and wiring are in good
condition, the fault must be in the motor itself.
This can be checked by disconnecting it from
the wiring loom and connecting a 12 volt
supply directly to it. If the motor does not
work then it must be renewed.

Removal

5 Drain the cooling system, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
6 From underneath the front of the vehicle,
slacken and remove the three bolts securing
the bumper flange to the body. Remove the
seven bolts securing the front undercover
panel to the body and remove the panel.
7 Remove the air cleaner metal intake duct
and intake hose.
8 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
the top hose from both the radiator and
engine. Position the hose clear of the radiator
so that it does not hinder removal.
9 Disconnect the radiator cooling fan wiring
connector.

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems  3•5

6.10  Thermostat housing and coolant

hoses refitted

6.8  Note temperature specification

stamped on thermostat end

6.7 Testing the thermostat

7.5  Removing the coolant pump

3

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

10 Undo the four nuts securing the cooling
fan cowling to the rear of the radiator and
manoeuvre the fan assembly out of the engine
compartment (see illustrations).
11 To dismantle the assembly, first prise off
the fan retaining circlip, then lift the fan off the
motor spindle. Undo the three nuts which
secure the motor assembly to the cowling
then release the motor wiring and connector
and separate the motor and cowling (see
illustration).

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following:
a)

If necessary, reassemble the fan motor,
cowling and fan, then tighten the motor
retaining nuts to the specified torque.
Ensure that the motor wiring is securely
retained by the cowling clips.

b)

Ensure that the radiator hose is securely
held by its retaining clips.

c)

On completion, refill the cooling system
as described in Chapter 1.

9

Cooling system electrical
switches - testing, removal
and refitting

2

Note:

On models equipped with air

conditioning, there are two switches fitted to
the right-hand side of the radiator, the lower of
these is the cooling fan switch.

Testing

Cooling fan thermostatic switch

1 Refer to Section 8 for details of a quick test
which should eliminate most faulty switches.
If the switch is to be renewed, or to be tested
thoroughly, it must be removed.
2 To carry out a thorough test of the switch,
use two spare wires to connect to it either a
multimeter (set to the resistance function) or a
battery and bulb test circuit. Suspend the
switch in a pan of water which is being
heated. Measure the temperature of the water
with a thermometer. Do not let either the
switch or the thermometer touch the pan itself
(see illustration).

3 The switch contacts should close to the ON
position (ie: continuity should exist) when the
water reaches the temperature specified.
Stop heating the water and allow it to cool
down. The switch contacts should open.
4 If the switch’s performance is significantly
different from that specified, or if it does not
work at all, then it must be renewed.

Coolant temperature gauge sender
unit

5 The coolant temperature gauge mounted in
the instrument panel is fed with a stabilised 10
volt supply from the instrument panel feed (via
the ignition switch and fuse 1), its earth being
controlled by the sender unit.
6 The sender unit is screwed into the coolant
outlet elbow mounted on the left-hand end of
the cylinder head, underneath the distributor
(see illustration). It contains a thermistor,
which is an element whose electrical
resistance decreases at a predetermined rate
as its temperature rises. Thus, when the
coolant is cold, the sender’s resistance is
high, current flow through the gauge is
reduced and the gauge needle points to the 
C (cold) end of the scale. If the unit is faulty it
must be renewed.

7 If the gauge develops a fault, check first the
other instruments. If they do not work at all,
check the instrument panel feed. If the
readings are erratic, there may be a fault in the
voltage stabiliser which will necessitate the
renewal of the gauge unit or printed circuit. If
the fault is in the temperature gauge alone,
check it as follows.
8 If the gauge needle remains at the C end of
the scale, disconnect the sender unit wire and
earth it to the cylinder head. If the needle then
deflects when the ignition is switched on, then
the sender unit is proven faulty and must be
renewed. If the needle still does not move,
remove the instrument panel and check the
continuity of the green/blue wire between the
gauge and the sender unit and the feed to 
the gauge unit. If continuity is shown and the
fault still exists, then the gauge is faulty and
the gauge unit must be renewed.
9 If the gauge needle remains at the H end of
the scale, disconnect the sender unit wire. If
the needle then returns to the C end of the
scale when the ignition is switched on, then
the sender unit is proven faulty and must be
renewed. If the needle still does not move,
check the remainder of the circuit as
described above.

Inlet manifold pre-heater temperature
switch - carburettor engines

10 The switch screwed into the underside of
the inlet manifold on carburettor engines

3•6 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

9.6  Coolant temperature gauge sender

unit

9.2  Testing cooling system electrical

switch

8.11  Cooling fan motor retaining nuts

(arrowed)

8.10b  . . . and remove fan assembly

8.10a  Undo cooling fan cowling retaining

nuts (2 arrowed) . . .

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

controls the inlet manifold heater circuit (see
illustration).
11 The switch contacts should be closed to
the ON position (ie: continuity should exist)
only at temperatures below 50°C. Remove the
switch and test it as described in para-
graphs 2 to 4.

Thermostatically-operated vacuum
switch - carburettor engines equipped
with catalytic converters

12 This switch is screwed into the thermostat
housing.
13 To test the switch, fit two suitable lengths
of hose to the switch and suspend the switch
in a pan of water which is being heated.
Measure the temperature of the water 
with a thermometer. Do not let either the
switch or the thermometer touch the pan
itself.
14 Blow down one of the hoses attached to
the switch. The switch should be closed (ie:
passes no air) when the water temperature is
below 70°C. Above 70°C, the switch should
open and air should flow freely through the
hoses. Stop heating the water then allow the
water to cool down and check that the switch
closes at 70°C or just below.
15 If the switch performance is significantly
different from that specified, or if it does not
work at all, then it must be renewed.

Coolant temperature sensor - fuel
injected engines

16 This sensor, which is screwed into the
underside of the inlet manifold (SPi engines),
or located in the coolant pipe adjacent to the
foward top edge of the timing belt cover (MPi
engines), is a thermistor (see paragraph 6)
which is supplied with approximately 5 volts
by the engine management system ECU. The
ECU also controls the sensor’s earth path
and, by measuring the amount of current in
the sensor circuit, determines the engine’s
temperature. This information is used, in
conjunction with other inputs, to control idle
speed, injector opening time duration and
ignition timing.
17 If the sensor circuit should fail to provide
adequate information, the ECU’s back-up

facility assumes a value corresponding to
60°C. The sensor itself can be tested only by
having a Rover dealer check the complete
system using the correct diagnostic
equipment. Do not attempt to test the circuit
using any other equipment, or the ECU will be
damaged.

Removal

Cooling fan thermostatic switch

18 With the engine and radiator cold, either
drain the cooling system down to the level of
the sender unit, or unscrew the expansion
tank filler cap to release any remaining
pressure and have a suitable plug ready that
can be used to stop the escape of coolant
while the switch is removed.
19 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
20 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
switch then rotate the locking ring to release
it. Withdraw the switch and sealing ring from
the radiator (see illustration).

Coolant temperature gauge sender
unit

21 With the engine and radiator cold, either
drain the cooling system down to the level of
the switch, or unscrew the expansion tank
filler cap to release any remaining pressure
and have a suitable plug ready that can be
used to stop the escape of coolant while the
unit is removed.
22 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
23 Disconnect the unit’s wiring connector
and unscrew the unit from the coolant outlet
elbow.

Inlet manifold pre-heater temperature
switch - carburettor engines

24 Refer to Chapter 4.

Thermostatically-operated vacuum
switch - carburettor engines equipped
with catalytic converters

25 Refer to Chapter 5.

Coolant temperature sensor - fuel
injected engines

26 Refer to Chapter 4.

Refitting

Cooling fan thermostatic switch

27 On refitting, renew the sealing ring if it is
worn or compressed and carefully clean the
radiator seat before pressing in the 
sealing ring and switch (see illustration). 
Refit the locking ring and rotate it to 
tighten it securely. Reconnect the switch 
and battery, then replenish the cooling
system.

Coolant temperature gauge sender
unit

28 On refitting, apply a suitable sealant to the
unit threads and tighten it to its specified
torque wrench setting. Reconnect the unit
and battery, then replenish the cooling
system.

Inlet manifold pre-heater temperature
switch - carburettor engines

29 Refer to Chapter 4.

Thermostatically-operated vacuum
switch - carburettor engines equipped
with catalytic converters

30 Refer to Chapter 5.

Coolant temperature sensor - fuel
injected engines

31 Refer to Chapter 4.

10 Heater components -

removal and refitting

3

Removal

Heater unit

1 Drain the cooling system.
2 Working in the engine compartment,
slacken the hose clips and disconnect the
heater feed and return hoses from the matrix
outlets on the bulkhead. Disconnect the cable
inner from the heater valve and free the cable
outer from its retaining clip. Slacken and

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems  3•7

9.27  Cooling fan switch locking ring (A)

thermostatic switch (B) and sealing 

ring (C)

9.20  Remove cooling fan thermostatic

switch and withdraw sealing ring 

(arrowed)

9.10  Inlet manifold pre-heater temperature

switch (carburettor engines)

3

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

remove the heater lower mounting nut which
is situated just to the left of the matrix outlets
(see illustrations).
3 Working inside the vehicle, remove the
facia.
4 Slacken and remove the two retaining
screws and remove the blower motor-to-
heater unit duct (see illustration). On models
equipped with air conditioning, the evaporator
unit is fitted in place of the duct. It may be
possible to gain the necessary clearance
required to disengage the evaporator from the
heater unit by removing the mounting
brackets and nuts. If not, the evaporator must
be removed.
5 Undo the screw securing the right-hand
heater duct to the mounting bracket, then
move the duct to the right to disengage it from
the heater unit (see illustrations).

6 Undo the inertia switch retaining nut and
disengage the switch from the steering
column support bracket.

7 Release the wiring block connector from
the right-hand end of the steering column
support bracket and undo the fusebox

3•8 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

10.5a  Undo right-hand duct retaining

screw (arrowed) . . .

10.2c  . . . and free heater valve cable from

retaining clip

10.2d  Slacken and remove heater unit

lower mounting nut

10.4  Remove blower motor-to-heater unit

duct

10.2b  Disconnect heater feed and return

hoses . . .

10.2a  Heater unit components

1

Heater case

2

Heater case clip

3

Face level/windscreen
duct

4

Floor level duct

5

Heater matrix

6

Heater matrix cover

7

Cable retaining clip

8 Floor level flap operating

lever

9 Clip

10 Floor level flap idler lever
11 Face level flap idler lever
12 Flap operating lever
13 Air mix flap operating lever
14 Air mix flap

15 Ambient air flap - centre

console vents

16 Distribution flap -

windscreen

17 Distribution flap - face

level vents

18 Distribution flap - floor

level vents

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

retaining nut. Slacken and remove the five
support bracket retaining bolts and remove
the bracket from the vehicle (see
illustrations).
8 Disconnect the air recirculation cable inner
from the flap and free the cable outer from the
blower motor.
9 Prise out the stud securing the rear heater
duct sleeve to the bottom of the heater unit,
then slide the sleeve down to disengage it
from the unit (see illustration).
10 Disconnect the wiring connectors from
the heater control panel, then remove the two
upper heater unit retaining nuts and carefully
manoeuvre the heater unit out of the vehicle
(see illustrations).

Heater matrix

11 Remove the heater unit.
12 Undo the screw securing the matrix outlet
pipe bracket to the heater unit and remove the
bracket (see illustration).
13 Slacken and remove the two matrix cover
retaining screws, then remove the cover and
withdraw the matrix from the heater unit (see
illustrations).
14 If the matrix is leaking, it is best to obtain
a new or reconditioned unit as home repairs
are seldom successful. If it is blocked, it can
sometimes be cleared by reverse flushing
using a garden hose. Use a proprietary
radiator cleaning product if absolutely
necessary.

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems  3•9

10.7b  Remove mounting bolts and

manoeuvre steering column mounting

bracket out of position

10.7a  Release wiring connector from

steering column support bracket and

remove fusebox nut (arrowed)

10.5b  . . . and disengage duct from heater

unit

10.13c  . . . and withdraw matrix from

heater unit

10.13b  . . . then remove cover . . .

10.12  Undo retaining screw and remove

matrix outlet pipe bracket

10.10b  . . . and remove heater retaining

nuts

10.10a  Disconnect wiring from heater

control panel . . .

10.9  Remove retaining stud and disengage

rear heater duct sleeve from heater unit

10.13a  Undo two matrix cover retaining

screws . . .

3

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97