Rover 820, 825, 827. Repair Manual - part 12

be made out of a large nut, with one end
suitably shaped by cutting or filing so that two
projections are left, which will engage with the
collar slots (see illustration).
6 Engage the home-made tool with the
threaded collar slots, then screw two 10 mm
nuts onto the threaded end of the spindle, and
lock them together. Hold these locknuts to
prevent the spindle turning, and unscrew the
threaded collar.
7 Remove the locknuts, home-made tool and
collar, then withdraw the lower bush and
washer.
8 Lift off the spring, then remove the bump-
stop and shock absorber dust cover.
9 Examine the shock absorber for signs of
fluid leakage. Check the spindle for signs of
wear or pitting along its entire length, and
check the shock absorber body for signs of
damage or corrosion. Test the operation of
the shock absorber, while holding it in an
upright position, by moving the spindle
through a full stroke, and then through short
strokes of 50 to 100 mm. In both cases, the
resistance felt should be smooth and
continuous. If the resistance is jerky or
uneven, or if there is any visible sign of wear,
damage or fluid leakage, renewal is
necessary.
10 If any doubt exists about the condition of
the coil spring, remove the spring
compressors and check the spring for
distortion or damage. The spring free length
can only be assessed by comparing it with a
new item, and this should be done if the

spring is suspect. Renew the spring if
necessary, ideally in pairs (both sides).
11 Check the condition of the spring seat
and upper mounting components, and renew
any parts which are suspect.

Reassembly

12 Begin reassembly by refitting the shock
absorber dust cover and bump-stop.
13 Refit the spring compressors, if previously
removed, and place the spring in position on
the shock absorber.
14 Refit the washer, lower bush and threaded
collar. Tighten the collar using the same
procedure as for removal.
15 Refit the spring seat, upper mounting
plate, upper bush and washer. Secure the
upper mounting assembly with the retaining
nut, tightened to the specified torque.
16 Remove the spring compressors, and refit
the spring and shock absorber to the car as
described in Section 5.

7

Front upper suspension arm
- removal and refitting

3

Note: The upper suspension arm incorporates
the steering knuckle upper support 
balljoint as a riveted integral assembly. If wear
of the balljoint necessitates renewal, a
complete upper suspension arm must be
obtained.

Removal

1 Apply the handbrake, prise off the front
wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack
up the front of the car and support it on axle
stands. Remove the front roadwheel.
2 Undo the nut securing the upper
suspension arm balljoint to the steering
knuckle  (see illustrations). Release the
balljoint using a separator tool or two-legged
puller.
3 From within the engine compartment, undo
the two nuts securing the suspension arm
mounting bracket to the inner wing valance.
For access to the rearmost nut, it may be
necessary to move the wiring harness
connectors aside, or if working on the left-
hand suspension arm, to undo the bolts and
move the wiper motor bracket slightly.
4 Withdraw the upper suspension arm
assembly from under the wheelarch.
5 With the arm on the bench, undo the nut
and withdraw the pivot bolt then remove the
arm from its mounting bracket.
6 Check the condition of the balljoint dust
cover, and check the balljoint for excess free
play. Also check the condition of the pivot
bushes and the arm itself. The bushes can be
renewed by drifting them out then pressing in
new ones. If the balljoint, balljoint dust cover
or the suspension arm show signs of damage
or wear, a complete new assembly must be
obtained. Examine the pivot bolt for signs of
wear ridges, and check the mounting bracket
for elongation of the pivot bolt holes. Renew
any components as necessary.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but tighten
all nuts and bolts to the specified torque.

8

Front lower suspension arm
- removal and refitting

4

Removal

1 Apply the handbrake, prise off the front
wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack
up the front of the car and support it on axle
stands. Remove the front roadwheel.

Suspension and steering systems  10•7

7.2b  Undo the nut securing the upper arm

balljoint to the steering knuckle (arrowed)

10

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

7.2a  Upper suspension arm attachment details

1 Balljoint-to-steering knuckle retaining nut
2 Releasing the balljoint with a separator tool
3 Mounting bracket retaining nuts

4 Mounting bracket
5 Pivot bolt
6 Upper suspension arm

2 Undo the nut securing the steering knuckle
balljoint to the lower suspension arm (see
illustration). Release the balljoint using a
separator tool or two-legged puller.
3 Undo the nut and remove the through-bolt
securing the shock absorber forked member
to the arm.
4 Undo the bolt securing the anti-roll bar
connecting link to the arm.
5 Undo the two bolts securing the tie-bar to
the arm.
6 Undo the nut and remove the suspension
arm inner mounting bolt (see illustration).
7 Withdraw the suspension arm from its inner
mounting location, and remove it from under
the wheelarch.
8 Check the condition of the two suspension
arm bushes, and renew these if worn or
damaged. To do this, a press will be required,

together with mandrels and distance tubes. If
this equipment is not available, have this work
done by a Rover dealer or suitably-equipped
garage.

Refitting

9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but tighten
all nuts and bolts to the specified torque. Do
not fully tighten the inner mounting bolt or the
forked member retaining bolt until the weight
of the car is on its roadwheels.

9

Front anti-roll bar - 
removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Apply the handbrake, prise off the front
wheel trims and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack
up the front of the car and support it on axle
stands. Remove the front roadwheels.
2 Undo the single bolt each side securing the
anti-roll bar connecting links to the lower
suspension arms (see illustration).

3 Undo the two bolts each side securing the
anti-roll bar mounting brackets to the chassis
members, and remove the bar from under the
car (see illustration).
4 If required, the connecting links can be
removed after undoing the retaining nut and
bolt on each side.
5 Check the condition of the connecting link
bushes and the anti-roll bar mounting bushes,
and renew any that show signs of deterioration.
The connecting link bushes come complete
with new connecting links, and the mounting
bushes are slit along their length to allow
removal and refitting over the bar.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten the
mounting and connecting link bushes to the
specified torque only with the weight of the car
on its roadwheels.

10 Front tie-bar - 

removal and refitting

4

Note: On some models, it may be found that
the tie-bar-to-lower suspension arm bolts
cannot be withdrawn because of the proximity
of the driveshaft. In this case, it will be
necessary to release the lower suspension
arm balljoint and disconnect the arm from the
shock absorber, as described in Section 8.

Removal

1 Apply the handbrake, prise off the front
wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack
up the front of the car and support it on axle
stands. Remove the front roadwheel.
2 Undo the five bolts and remove the undertray
for access to the tie-bar front mounting.
3 Undo the front mounting nut and remove
the tie-bar washer and outer mounting bush
(see illustration).

10•8 Suspension and steering systems

10.3  Front tie-bar attachment details

9.3  Anti-roll bar mounting bracket bolts

(arrowed)

9.2  Anti-roll bar connecting link bolt

(arrowed)

8.6  Lower suspension arm inner mounting

bolt (arrowed)

8.2  Undo the nut securing the steering

knuckle balljoint to the lower suspension

arm

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Front mounting

nut

2 Washer
3 Outer mounting

bush

4 Tie-bar-to-lower

suspension arm
bolts

5 Tie-bar
6 Inner mounting

bush

7 Washer
8 Spacer

4 Undo the two bolts securing the tie-bar to
the lower suspension arm, and remove the
bar from under the car.
5 Withdraw the spacer, inner mounting bush
and washer.
6 Renew the mounting bushes if they show
any sign of deformation or swelling of the
rubber.

Refitting

7 Fit the washer, inner bush and spacer, then
locate the tie-bar in position.
8 Secure the tie-bar to the lower suspension
arm, with the two bolts tightened to the
specified torque.
9 Fit the outer bush and washer, followed by
the retaining nut, but do not tighten the nut
fully until the weight of the car is on its
roadwheels.
10 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the car to
the ground.
11 Tighten the roadwheel nuts and the tie-
bar front mounting nut to the specified torque
then refit the wheel trim.
12 Refit the undertray.

11 Rear hub carrier - 

removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels, prise off the rear
wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack
up the rear of the car and support it on axle
stands. Remove the rear roadwheel and
release the handbrake.

2 Refer to Chapter 9 if necessary, and undo
the two bolts securing the brake caliper
carrier bracket to the hub carrier.
3 Undo the retaining bolt and release the
flexible brake hose support bracket from the
shock absorber strut.
4 Withdraw the carrier bracket, complete with
caliper and brake pads, from the disc and hub
carrier. Tie the caliper assembly from a
convenient place under the wheelarch to
avoid straining the brake hose.
5 On cars equipped with ABS, withdraw the
rear wheel speed sensor and wiring harness
from the hub carrier, as described in Chapter 9.
6 Undo the two screws and remove the brake
disc from the hub flange (see illustrations).
7 Undo the nut and release the anti-roll bar
connecting link from the suspension lower
transverse link (see illustration).
8 Place a jack beneath the transverse link,
and raise the link slightly.
9 Undo the nut and remove the through-bolt
and washers securing the hub carrier to the
trailing link.
10 Undo the nut and remove the bolt
securing the hub carrier to the transverse link.
11 Undo the nut and clamp bolt securing the
shock absorber strut to the hub carrier.
12 Lower the jack slightly, and release the
hub carrier from the shock absorber strut. If
the strut is tight, spread the slot in the hub
carrier with a screwdriver, and tap the carrier
down with a copper or plastic mallet.

13 Withdraw the hub carrier from the
transverse and trailing links, and remove it
from the car.

Refitting

14 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
all nuts and bolts to the specified torque, but
do not fully tighten the transverse and trailing
link retaining nuts until the weight of the car is
on the roadwheels.

12 Rear hub bearing - renewal

3

Note: A new hub flange retaining nut will be
required for reassembly.
1 Remove the rear hub from the car as
described in the previous Section.
2 Prise off the cover over the hub flange
retaining nut at the rear of the hub carrier,
then secure the hub flange in a vice (see
illustration).
3 Using a small punch or screwdriver, tap up
the staking, then unscrew the hub flange
retaining nut.
4 Support the hub carrier in a vice, and tap
the hub flange out of the bearing (see
illustration).

Suspension and steering systems  10•9

11.6b  . . . and remove the brake disc

11.6a  Undo the two screws (arrowed) . . .

12.4  Removing the hub flange from the

bearing

12.2  Cover (1) and hub flange retaining 

nut (2) at the rear of the hub carrier

10

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

11.7  Rear hub carrier attachment details

1 Anti-roll bar connecting link nut
2 Anti-roll bar connecting link
3 Hub carrier-to-trailing link through bolt
4 Hub carrier-to-transverse link retaining bolt
5 Shock absorber clamp bolt

5 Undo the four screws and remove the disc
shield.
6 Extract the bearing retaining circlip, then
support the hub carrier face-down on blocks
or on a press bed. Using a tube or mandrel in
contact with the edge of the outer bearing,
drive or press the bearing out (see
illustrations).
7 Fit the new bearing in the same way,
ensuring that it is pressed fully home to the
shoulder in the hub carrier. Keep the bearing
square as it is fitted, otherwise it will jam, and
continued pressure could cause the outer
race to crack. If the bearing does jam, tap or
press it out, remove any burrs in the bore of
the carrier and try again.
8 Secure the bearing with the circlip, then
refit the disc shield.
9 Tap the hub flange into the bearing and fit a

new retaining nut. Tighten the nut to the
specified torque, and secure by staking the
nut flange into the groove in the hub. Tap on
the nut cover.
10 Refit the hub carrier to the car as
described in the previous Section.

13 Rear shock absorber -

removal and refitting

3

Note: The following procedures are applicable
equally to cars with standard suspension or
self-levelling damper units.

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels, prise off the rear
wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack

10•10 Suspension and steering systems

12.6b  . . . then remove the bearing from

the hub using a mandrel

12.6a  Extract the rear hub bearing

retaining circlip (1) . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Connecting link retaining nut
2 Anti-roll bar connecting link
3 Trailing link retaining through

bolt

4 Transverse link retaining bolt
5 Shock absorber clamp bolt
6 Upper mounting retaining nut
7 Shock absorber
8 Shock absorber spindle nut
9 Upper mounting
10 Bump-stop
11 Dust cover

up the rear of the car and support it on axle
stands. Remove the rear roadwheel.
2 Undo the retaining bolt and release the
flexible brake hose support bracket from the
shock absorber strut.
3 Undo the nut and release the anti-roll bar
connecting link from the suspension lower
transverse link (see illustration).
4 Place a jack below the transverse link, and
raise the link slightly.
5 Undo the nut and remove the through-bolt
and washers securing the hub carrier to the
trailing link.
6 Undo the nut and remove the bolt securing
the hub carrier to the transverse link.
7 Undo the nut and clamp bolt securing the
shock absorber strut to the hub carrier.
8 Lower the jack slightly, and release the hub
carrier from the shock absorber strut. If the
strut is tight, spread the slot in the hub carrier
with a screwdriver, and tap the carrier down
with a copper or plastic mallet.
9 From inside the luggage compartment,
remove the trim as necessary to gain access
to the shock absorber upper mounting.
10 Undo the three nuts securing the upper
mounting to the body, and remove the shock
absorber from under the wheelarch.
11 If the upper mounting is to be removed,
undo the shock absorber spindle nut and
withdraw the upper mounting, followed by the
bump-stop and dust cover.
12 Examine the shock absorber for signs of
fluid leakage. Check the spindle for signs of
wear or pitting along its entire length, and
check the shock absorber body for signs of
damage or corrosion. Test the operation of
the shock absorber, while holding it in an
upright position, by moving the spindle
through a full stroke, and then through short
strokes of 50 to 100 mm. In both cases, the
resistance felt should be smooth and
continuous. If the resistance is jerky or
uneven, or if there is any visible sign of wear,
damage or fluid leakage, renewal is
necessary. Also check the condition of the
upper mounting, bump-stop and dust cover,
and renew any components as necessary.

Refitting

13 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
all nuts and bolts to the specified torque, but
do not fully tighten the transverse and trailing
link retaining nuts until the weight of the car is
on the roadwheels.

14 Rear coil spring - 

removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Refer to Section 13 and carry out the
operations described in paragraphs 1 to 6
inclusive, with the exception of paragraph 2.
2 Ease the hub carrier away from the trailing
link, and move the trailing link end clear as
much as possible.

13.3  Rear shock absorber attachment details

3 Lower the jack slowly and carefully to
release the tension on the coil spring.
4 When all the tension is released, withdraw
the spring from its location, and recover the
upper and lower spring seats. Note the fitted
position of the lower seat in the transverse link
as it is removed.
5 Examine the spring carefully for signs of
distortion or damage. The spring free length
can only be assessed by comparing it with a
new item, and this should be done if the
spring is suspect. Renew the spring if
necessary, ideally in pairs (both sides). Also
check the condition of the upper and lower
spring seats, and renew any components as
necessary.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the tang on the lower spring seat
engages with the slot in the transverse link.
Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque, but do not fully tighten the transverse
and trailing link retaining nuts until the weight
of the car is on the roadwheels.

15 Transverse link - 

removal and refitting

4

Removal

1 Remove the rear coil spring as described in
the previous Section.
2 Undo the nut and remove the transverse
link inner mounting bolt (see illustration).
3 Ease the link away from its inner location,
and remove it from under the car.
4 If the transverse link inner mounting bush
requires renewal, a hydraulic press and
mandrels will be needed to replace the bush.
If this equipment is not available, have the
work carried out by a Rover dealer or suitably-
equipped garage. A similar procedure must
be used for renewal of the outer bush, which
is located in the hub carrier, after removal of
this component from the car (see Section 11).

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but do not

fully tighten the inner mounting nut until the
weight of the car is on the roadwheels.

16 Trailing link - 

removal and refitting

4

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels, prise off the rear
wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack
up the rear of the car and support it on axle
stands. Remove the rear roadwheel
2 Undo the trailing link front mounting nut
and remove the outer washer and bush (see
illustration).
3 Undo the nut and remove the through-bolt
and washers securing the trailing link to the
hub carrier.
4 Ease the link away from the hub carrier,
withdraw the front mounting from its location
and remove the link from under the car.
5 Withdraw the front mounting inner bush
and washer, and the two rear mounting
bushes.
6 If the adjustment plate is to be removed,
first mark the position of the forward eccentric
bolt in relation to the plate, so that an
approximate rear wheel toe setting can be
obtained on reassembly. Undo the nuts,
remove the retaining bolt and eccentric bolt,
then withdraw the adjustment plate from the
trailing link.
7 Examine all the mounting bushes for

damage, deformation or swelling of the
rubber, and check the remaining components
for damage or distortion. Renew any parts as
necessary.

Refitting

8 Refit the adjustment plate to the link, and
secure with the retaining and adjustment bolts
and nuts. Before fully tightening the nuts, set
the eccentric adjustment bolt in the position
marked before removal.
9 The remainder of the refitting procedure is a
reversal of removal. Do not fully tighten the
trailing link-to-hub carrier through-bolt until
the weight of the car is on the roadwheels.
10 On completion, have the rear wheel
alignment checked and if necessary adjusted
(see Section 28).

17 Rear anti-roll bar - 

removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Apply the handbrake, prise off the rear
wheel trims and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack
up the rear of the car and support it on axle
stands. Remove the rear roadwheels.
2 Undo the single nut each side securing the
anti-roll bar connecting links to the rear
suspension transverse links.
3 Undo the two bolts each side securing the
anti-roll bar mounting brackets to the chassis

Suspension and steering systems  10•11

16.2  Trailing link components and attachments

15.2  Transverse link inner mounting bolt

(arrowed)

10

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Front mounting nut
2 Outer washer
3 Outer bush
4 Trailing link through-bolt
5 Washer
6 Bush
7 Trailing link
8 Inner bush
9 Inner washer

10 Adjustment

plate 

retaining bolt

11 Eccentric bolt
12 Eccentric washer
13 Adjustment plate

members, and remove the bar from under the
car (see illustration).
4 If required, the connecting links can be
removed after undoing the retaining nut on
each side.
5 Check the condition of the connecting link
bushes and the anti-roll bar mounting bushes,
and renew any that show signs of
deterioration. The mounting bushes are slit
along their length to allow removal and
refitting over the bar.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the mounting and connecting link bushes to
the specified torque only with the weight of
the car on its roadwheels.

18 Steering wheel - 

removal and refitting

3

Models without airbag
supplementary restraint system

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2 Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position.
3 On early models, carefully prise off the

steering wheel pad, disconnect the two horn
switch leads and remove the pad (see
illustrations).
4 On later models, undo the two screws at
the rear of the steering wheel and lift off the
steering wheel pad.
5 On models equipped with cruise control,
disconnect the cruise control switch multiplug
from the rotary coupler wiring harness.
6 With an assistant holding the wheel, undo
and remove the centre retaining nut using a
socket and bar (see illustration).
7 Mark the steering wheel and column shaft
in relation to each other, and withdraw the
wheel from the shaft splines.

Refitting

8 Before refitting, check that the wheels are
still in the straight-ahead position and, where
applicable, turn the direction indicator
cancelling bush so that the slot is pointing
upwards (see illustration).
9 Engage the steering wheel over the shaft
splines, ensuring that the previously-made
marks are aligned, and make sure that the lug
on the wheel boss engages with the slot in the
direction indicator cancelling bush (see
illustration).
10 On models equipped with cruise control,
ensure that the rotary coupler lugs engage
with the steering wheel slots.
11 Refit the retaining nut and tighten it to the
specified torque while your assistant holds the
wheel.

12 Reconnect the horn switch wires (early
models) and refit the steering wheel pad.
13 Reconnect the battery.

Models with airbag
supplementary restraint system

Warning: Handle the airbag unit
with extreme care as a
precaution against personal
injury, and always hold it with

the cover facing away from the body. If in
doubt concerning any proposed work
involving the airbag unit or its control
circuitry, consult a Rover dealer or other
qualified specialist.

Removal

14 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead first, followed by the positive lead (refer
to Chapter 5, Section 1).

Warning: Before proceeding,
wait a minimum of 20 minutes,
as a precaution against
accidental firing of the airbag

unit. This period ensures that any stored
energy in the back-up capacitor is
dissipated.

15 Release the four turnbuckles and lift off
the fusebox cover below the steering column.
16 Disconnect the airbag wiring multiplug
from the steering column wiring harness at the
base of the column.
17 Using a Torx type socket bit, unscrew the

10•12 Suspension and steering systems

18.9  Ensure that the lug on the steering

wheel boss (A) engages the cancelling

bush slots (B)

18.8  Position the direction indicator

cancelling bush with the slot pointing

upwards

18.6  Undo the steering wheel retaining nut

18.3b  . . . and disconnect the two horn

switch leads

18.3a  Prise off the steering wheel pad . . .

17.3  Anti-roll bar right-hand side mounting

bracket

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

two airbag module retaining screws from the
rear of the steering wheel (see illustration).
18 Lift the airbag module off the steering
wheel, disconnect the multiplug from the rear
of the module and remove the module from
the vehicle. 

Warning: Position the airbag
unit in a safe place, with the
mechanism facing downwards
as a precaution against
accidental operation.

Warning: Do not attempt to
open or repair the airbag unit, or
apply any electrical current to it.
Do not use any airbag which is

visibly damaged or which has been
tampered with.
19 Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position.
20 On models equipped with cruise control,
disconnect the cruise control switch multiplug
from the rotary coupler wiring harness and
release the harness from the steering wheel
clip.
21 With an assistant holding the wheel, undo
and remove the centre retaining nut using a
socket and bar.
22 Mark the steering wheel and column shaft
in relation to each other, and withdraw the
wheel from the shaft splines.
23 On models with cruise control, feed the
wiring harness through the hole in the steering
wheel as it is withdrawn.

Refitting

24 Check that the front wheels are still in the
straight-ahead position, then engage the
steering wheel over the shaft splines, while at
the same time feeding the wiring harness
through the hole in the wheel. Ensure that the
previously-made marks are aligned, and that
the rotary coupler lugs engage with the
steering wheel slots.
25 Refit the retaining nut and tighten it to the

specified torque while your assistant holds the
wheel.
27 Reconnect the cruise control wiring
(where applicable).
28 Reconnect the wiring multiplug to the rear
of the airbag module with the harness pointing
downward.
29 Locate the airbag module on the steering
wheel and secure with the two retaining
screws.
30 Reconnect the airbag wiring multiplug to
the steering column wiring harness and refit
the fusebox cover.
31 Reconnect the battery.

19 Rotary coupler - 

removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 A rotary coupler is fitted between the
steering wheel and steering column
multifunction switch on vehicles equipped
with an airbag supplementary restraint system
and/or cruise control.
2 Remove the steering wheel as described in
Section 18.
3 From inside the car, release the turnbuckles
and lift out the trim panels over the clutch,
brake and accelerator pedals.
4 Release the rake lock on the side of the
steering column, and move the column to its
lowest position.
5 Undo the single upper screw and the three
lower screws, and remove the upper and
lower steering column shrouds.
6 Disconnect the rotary coupler multiplug
from the steering column wiring harness (see
illustration). On models equipped with an
airbag, release the airbag wiring harness
connector from the steering column bracket

and remove the harness cable ties from the
column.
7 Ensure that the front roadwheels are in the
straight-ahead position then release the two
plastic clips and withdraw the coupler from
the steering column multifunction switch.
Note: The rotary coupler must not be turned
whilst it is removed. To prevent rotation of the
two coupler halves, place a piece of adhesive
tape around the moulding as shown (see
illustration). Store the coupler in a plastic bag
after removal as an added precaution against
rotation or damage.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal bearing in
mind the following points:
(a) If a new rotary coupler is being fitted it will

be supplied with sealing tape around the
moulding to prevent rotation of the
coupler halves. Do not use the coupler if
the sealing tape is broken.

(b) If the original rotary coupler is being

refitted, remove the previously applied
adhesive tape before positioning the unit
on the steering column.

(c) Use new cable ties to secure the wiring

harness to the steering column.

(d) Refit the steering wheel as described in

Section 18.

20 Steering column lock -

removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Remove the steering wheel as described in
Section 18.
2 From inside the car, release the turnbuckles
and lift out the trim panels over the clutch,
brake and accelerator pedals.
3 Release the rake lock on the side of the

Suspension and steering systems  10•13

19.7  After removal, secure the two halves

of the rotary coupler to prevent rotation,

using adhesive tape applied to position (A)

19.6  Rotary coupler connections on

models with airbag supplementary

restraint system and/or cruise control

10 Rotary coupler multiplug
11 Plastic retaining clips
12 Rotary coupler

18.17  Unscrew the two retaining 

screws (5) securing the airbag (6) to the

steering wheel

10

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

steering column, and move the column to its
lowest position (see illustration).
4 Undo the single upper screw and the three
lower screws, and remove the upper and
lower steering column shrouds.
5 Undo the two nuts and remove the washers
from the steering column upper mounting.
6 Undo the two bolts and remove the
mounting strap from the column lower
mounting. Lower the column slightly, and
support it in this position.
7 Disconnect the two ignition switch wiring
multiplugs from the fusebox.
8 Centre-punch the steering column lock

shear-bolts, then drill off the bolt heads.
9 Remove the lock saddle, then withdraw the
lock from the column.
10 With the lock removed, unscrew the
shear-bolt studs with a self-locking wrench or
a pair of grips on the protruding bolt ends.

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
tighten all the mounting bolts and nuts to the
specified torque. Use new shear-bolts to
secure the lock, and tighten them until the
heads shear off, but check the operation of
the lock before doing this.

21 Steering column - 

removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2 Remove the steering wheel and, where
fitted, the rotary coupler as described in
Sections 18 and 19 respectively.
3 From inside the car, release the turnbuckles
and lift out the trim panels over the clutch,
brake and accelerator pedals (see
illustrations).
4 Release the rake lock on the side of the
steering column, and move the column to its
lowest position.
5 Undo the single upper screw and the three
lower screws, and remove the upper and
lower steering column shrouds.
6 At the base of the steering column, release
the two retaining clips and slide the cover up
over the column shaft universal joint (see
illustration).
7 Move the carpets aside to gain access to
the floor-mounted cover plate.
8 Prise out the retaining studs to release the
cover plate and gasket from the floor.
9 Undo the clamp bolt securing the universal
joint to the steering gear pinion.
10 Undo the two nuts and remove the
washers from the steering column upper
mounting (see illustration).
11 Undo the two bolts and remove the
mounting strap from the column lower
mounting 

(see illustration). Lower the column

slightly, and support it in this position.
12 Release the flasher unit from its bracket
above the fusebox.
13 Disconnect the two ignition switch wiring
multiplugs from the fusebox and, where
applicable, the additional multiplugs at the
base of the column. Release the multiplugs
and wiring from the column brackets as
necessary.
14 Lift the column assembly upwards to
disengage the universal joint from the steering
gear pinion, then remove the column from the
car.
15 If the universal joint is to be removed,
mark the joint in relation to the column shaft.
Undo the clamp bolt and slide the joint off the
shaft.

Refitting

16 Before refitting the column, set 
the roadwheels to the straight-ahead 
position.
17 Refit the universal joint to the column
shaft (if previously removed), ensuring that the
marks made during removal are aligned.
18 Engage the universal joint with the
steering gear pinion, and push it fully home.
19 Reconnect the wiring multiplugs and refit
the flasher unit.

10•14 Suspension and steering systems

21.3b  . . . and lower trim panel over the

pedals

21.3a  Remove the upper trim panel . . .

20.3  Steering column lock attachments

1 Steering column rake lock
2 Upper shroud retaining screw
3 Lower shroud retaining screws
4 Column upper mounting nut and washer
5 Column lower mounting bolts

6 Ignition switch wiring multiplug
7 Additional switch lead
8 Shear bolt
9 Lock saddle

10 Steering column lock

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

20 Refit the column mountings, and tighten
the nuts and bolts to the specified torque.
21 Tighten the universal joint clamp bolt.
22 Refit the cover plate and gasket, followed
by the universal joint cover.
23 Refit the steering column shrouds and the
trim panels.
24 Refit the rotary coupler (where applicable)
and steering wheel as described in Sections
19 and 18, then reconnect the battery.

22 Steering track rod - 

removal and refitting

4

Removal

1 Apply the handbrake, remove the front
wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack
up the front of the car and support it on axle

stands. Remove the front roadwheel.
2 Slacken the track rod retaining locknut by a
quarter of a turn (see illustration).
3 Extract the split pin, then unscrew the nut
securing the track rod balljoint to the steering
knuckle arm (see illustration).
4 Using a universal balljoint separator tool,
release the tapered ball-pin from the arm (see
illustration).
5 Engage a spanner over the flats on the
inner track rod that protrudes from the rubber
gaiter, then unscrew the steering track rod
and outer balljoint assembly.

Refitting

6 Fit the new track rod by screwing it on to
the inner track rod until it contacts the
locknut.

Suspension and steering systems  10•15

21.10  Steering column upper mounting nut

(arrowed)

21.11  Steering column lower mounting

bolt (arrowed)

22.4  Using a universal balljoint separator

tool to release the track rod balljoint

22.3  Extract the split pin and remove the

track rod retaining nut (arrowed)

22.2  Steering track rod retaining locknut

(arrowed)

10

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

21.6  Steering column attachments and components

1 Universal joint

cover retaining
clip

2 Universal joint

cover

3 Cover plate

retaining studs

4 Cover plate
5 Gasket
6 Universal joint

clamp bolt

7 Column upper

mounting nuts

8 Column lower

mounting bolts

9 Flasher unit
10 Main wiring

multiplug

11 Main relay

harness
multiplug

12 Universal joint

clamp bolt

13 Universal joint

7 Insert the balljoint into the steering knuckle
arm and refit the retaining nut. Tighten the nut
to the specified torque, then tighten it further,
slightly, to align the next split pin hole. Secure
the nut with a new split pin.
8 Tighten the track rod retaining locknut
securely, refit the roadwheel and lower the car
to the ground. Tighten the wheel nuts and refit
the wheel trim.
9 Check the front wheel alignment as
described in Section 28.

23 Steering gear rubber gaiter -

renewal

4

Removal

1 Remove the steering track rod as described
in the previous Section.
2 Count and record the number of exposed
threads from the end of the inner track rod to the
locknut, then unscrew and remove the locknut.
3 Release the rubber gaiter retaining clips,
remove the transfer tube (V6 engine models)
and withdraw the gaiter from the steering gear
and inner track rod.

Refitting

4 Slide the new gaiter into position and
secure it with new retaining clips. Where
applicable, refit the transfer tube.
5 Refit the locknut to the inner track rod, and
position it so that the same number of threads
are exposed as counted on removal.
6 Refit the steering track rod as described in
the previous Section.

24 Steering gear - 

removal and refitting

4

4-cylinder engine models

Removal

1 From inside the car, release the two
retaining clips and slide up the cover over the
universal joint at the base of the steering
column (see illustration 21.6).

2 Move the carpets aside to gain access to
the floor-mounted cover plate.
3 Prise out the retaining studs to release the
cover plate and gasket from the floor.
4 Undo the clamp bolt securing the universal
joint to the steering gear pinion.
5 Apply the handbrake, remove the front
wheel trims and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack
up the front of the car and support it on axle
stands. Remove the front roadwheels.
6 Remove the exhaust front pipes as
described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
7 Extract the split pins, then unscrew the nuts
securing each track rod balljoint to the
steering knuckle arm.
8 Using a universal balljoint separator tool,
release the balljoint tapered ball-pins from the
arms.
9 Position a suitable container beneath the
pinion end of the steering gear.
10 Wipe clean the area around the fluid pipe
unions, then unscrew the two rearward-facing
union nuts on the pinion housing (see
illustration). Allow the power steering fluid to
drain into the container.
11 Remove the two O-ring seals from the
disconnected pipes, then plug or tape over
the pipe ends and orifices.
12 Undo the two bolts each side securing the
steering gear to the chassis members, and
remove the mounting brackets (see
illustrations).
13 Lower the steering gear to release the
pinion from the column universal joint, then
manipulate the assembly sideways and out
through the wheelarch.
14 Check the condition of the rubber
mountings, and renew them if there is any
sign of deterioration or swelling of the rubber.

Refitting

15 Refitting the steering gear is a reversal of
removal, bearing in mind the following points:
(a) Tighten all nuts, bolts and unions to the

specified torque.

(b) Use new O-ring seals on the pipe unions,

and new split pins on the balljoint
retaining nuts.

(c) Fill the system with fresh fluid, and bleed the

steering gear as described in Section 25.

(d) If necessary, reposition the steering wheel

so that the spokes are horizontal when the
steering gear is in the straight-ahead
position (see Section 18).

V6 engine models

Removal

16 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to
8 above.
17 Undo the bolts securing the longitudinal
support member to the underbody beneath
the engine and remove the member.
18 Engage a spanner over the flats on the
left-hand inner track rod that protrudes from
the rubber gaiter, then unscrew the steering
track rod and outer balljoint assembly.
Remove the right-hand steering track rod in
the same way.
19 Undo the four bolts and remove the cover
plate from below the pinion end of the
steering gear.
20 Position a suitable container beneath the
steering gear fluid pipes.
21 Wipe clean the area around the fluid pipe
unions, then unscrew the four union nuts on
the pinion housing. Allow the power steering
fluid to drain into the container.
22 Plug or tape over the disconnected pipe
ends and orifices to prevent dirt entry.
23 Undo the two bolts each side securing the
steering gear to the chassis members, and
remove the mounting brackets.
24 Lower the steering gear to release the
pinion from the column universal joint, then
manipulate the assembly sideways and out
through the wheelarch.
25 Check the condition of the rubber
mountings, and renew them if there is any
sign of deterioration or swelling of the rubber.

Refitting

26 Refitting the steering gear is a reversal of
removal, bearing in mind the following points:
(a) Tighten all nuts, bolts and unions to the

specified torque.

(b) Use new split pins on the balljoint

retaining nuts.

(c) Fill the system with fresh fluid, and bleed the

steering gear as described in Section 25.

(d) If necessary, reposition the steering wheel

so that the spokes are horizontal when the
steering gear is in the straight-ahead
position (see Section 18).

10•16 Suspension and steering systems

24.12b  . . . and left-hand mounting bracket

bolts (arrowed)

24.12a  Steering gear right-hand mounting

bracket bolts (arrowed) . . .

24.10  Unscrew the two fluid pipe union

nuts (arrowed)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

25 Power steering gear -

bleeding

1

1 Remove the filler cap on the power steering
fluid reservoir, and fill the reservoir with the
specified fluid until the level is up to the MAX
mark on the cap dipstick.
2 Disconnect the HT lead from the centre of
the ignition coil.
3 Crank the engine on the starter motor for
five seconds to prime the power steering
pump.
4 Top up the reservoir, then crank the engine
again for a further five seconds.
5 Turn the steering onto full right-hand lock,
and crank the engine for five seconds.
6 Turn the steering onto full left-hand lock,
top up the reservoir, and reconnect the HT
lead to the coil.
7 Start the engine and run it for
approximately two minutes. During this time,
turn the steering wheel one turn each way.
8 With the engine stopped, check the
condition of the power steering fluid. If it is
aerated, leave it until clear. Once the fluid is
clear, top up the reservoir, start the engine
again and run it for a further two minutes.
During this time, turn the steering wheel one
turn each way as before.

9 Stop the engine, make a final check of the
fluid level and top up if necessary, then refit
the filler cap.

26 Power steering pump -

removal and refitting

1

4-cylinder engine models with
rear-mounted, camshaft-driven
pump

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.
3 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 and
remove the air cleaner assembly.
4 Slacken the hose clips and disconnect the
heater bypass hose from the thermostat
housing, and the radiator bottom hose from
the main coolant pipe below the distributor.
5 Undo the bolts securing the heater pipe and
coolant pipe to their support brackets, and
move the pipe and hose assembly away from
the vicinity of the power steering pump as far
as possible.
6 Undo the retaining screw and remove the
cover over the camshaft pulley.
7 Slacken the centre retaining nut on the
drivebelt tensioner wheel, then turn the
tension adjuster clockwise until the bolt is
slack (see illustration).
8 Using a socket and bar, unscrew and

remove the power steering pump pulley
retaining nut (see illustration). To prevent the
pulley turning as the nut is undone, engage a
large screwdriver with one of the slots on the
pulley, rest the screwdriver over the socket,
and apply clockwise leverage to the
screwdriver.
9 Withdraw the pulley and drivebelt from the
pump (see illustration). Use two screwdrivers
to lever off the pulley if it is tight.
10 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the car and support it on axle stands.
11 Undo the bolts securing the longitudinal
support member to the underbody beneath
the engine and remove the member.
12 Position a suitable container beneath the
engine, below the power steering pump.
13 Wipe clean the area around the pipe and
hose unions at the rear of the pump.
14 Unscrew the union nut and slacken the hose
clip, then disconnect the high pressure pipe and
return hose from the pump (see illustration).
Allow the power steering fluid to drain into the
container. Plug or tape over the disconnected
unions when the fluid has drained.
15 Undo the four power steering pump
retaining bolts, and remove the pump from
under the car (see illustration).

Refitting

16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
(a) Tighten all nuts, bolts and unions to the

specified torque.

(b) Refit and tension the drivebelt as

described in Chapter 1.

(c) Bleed the power steering gear as

described in Section 25.

(d) Refill the cooling system and refit the air

cleaner as described in Chapters 1 and 4
respectively.

4-cylinder engine models with
front-mounted, crankshaft-
driven pump

Removal

17 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as
described in Chapter 1.
18 On later models, refer to Chapter 5 and
remove the alternator if access to the pump
mounting bolts is limited.

Suspension and steering systems  10•17

26.9  Withdraw the pulley and drivebelt

from the pump

26.8  Unscrew the pump pulley retaining

nut

26.7  Slacken the tensioner wheel retaining

nut

26.15  Undo the four pump retaining bolts

26.14  Fluid pipe connections at the rear-

mounted power steering pump

1 High pressure pipe union
2 Return hose clip
3 Return hose
4 Power steering pump

10

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

19 On models with air conditioning, remove
the heat shield (where fitted) from the rear of
the pump.
20 Position a suitable container beneath the
engine, below the power steering pump.

21 Wipe clean the area around the pipe and
hose unions at the rear of the pump.
22 Unscrew the union nut and slacken the
hose clip, then disconnect the high pressure
pipe and return hose from the pump (see
illustration). Allow the power steering fluid to
drain into the container. Plug or tape over the
disconnected unions when the fluid has
drained.
23 Undo the three bolts and remove the
power steering pump pulley.
24 Undo the four bolts (early version) or five
bolts (later version) securing the pump to its
mounting bracket. Slide the pump out of the
bracket, and remove it from under the car.

Refitting

25 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
(a) Tighten all nuts, bolts and unions to the

specified torque.

(b) Refit and tension the drivebelt as

described in Chapter 1.

(c) Bleed the power steering gear as

described in Section 25.

V6 engine models

Removal

26 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
27 Undo the three bolts or nuts securing the
power steering pump and alternator pulley
covers to the top of the engine. Move the
pipes and cables clear and lift off the covers
(see illustrations).
28 Wipe clean the area around the pipe and
hose unions on the top of the pump.
29 Place absorbent rags around the power
steering pump and be prepared for fluid
spillage.
30 Undo the two bolts securing the high
pressure pipe connector, lift off the connector
and recover the O-ring (see illustration).
31 Slacken the hose clip, then disconnect the
return hose from the pump. Plug or tape over
the disconnected unions to prevent dirt entry.
32 Slacken the pump adjusting nut and
mounting bolt, push the pump down and slip
the drivebelt off the pump pulley (see
illustrations).
33 Remove the mounting bolt and adjusting
nut and lift the pump off the engine.

10•18 Suspension and steering systems

26.30  High pressure pipe connector (A)

and return hose connection (B) at the

power steering pump

26.27d  . . . and lift off the two covers

26.27c  . . . and cover clips . . .

26.27b  . . . release the pipes and cables

from the support brackets . . .

26.27a  Undo the three nuts/bolts

(arrowed) securing the pulley covers to the

top of the engine . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 High pressure

pipe

2 Return hose clip
3 Return hose
4 Pulley retaining

bolts

5 Drivebelt
6 Pulley
7 Pump retaining

bolts

8 Power steering

pump

26.22  Power steering pump attachments on 4-cylinder engine models with front

mounted pump (early version shown, later version similar)

Refitting

34 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
(a) Tighten all nuts, bolts and unions to the

specified torque.

(b) Use a new O-ring on the high pressure

pipe connector.

(c) Refit and tension the drivebelt as

described in Chapter 1.

(c) Bleed the power steering gear as

described in Section 25.

27 Power steering fluid cooler -

removal and refitting

1

4-cylinder engine models

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2 Remove the front bumper as described in
Chapter 11.
3 Position a suitable container beneath the
engine, below the power steering fluid
reservoir and place absorbent rags under the
reservoir.
4 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect the
fluid cooler hose at the reservoir. Plug the
disconnected unions quickly to minimise fluid
spillage.
5 Locate the remaining hose-to-pipe
connectors and release the hose clips or
disconnect the pipe connectors as applicable.
6 Undo the two fluid cooler retaining nuts and
remove the cooler.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Bleed the
power steering gear as described in Sec-
tion 25 on completion.

V6 engine models

Removal

8 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
9 Remove the side lights and the right-hand
headlight as described in Chapter 12. On early

models, remove the radiator grille as
described in Chapter 11.
10 Position a suitable container beneath the
front of the car, below the fluid cooler unions.
11 Slacken the hose clips and disconnect the
four fluid cooler hose connections, two at
each end of the cooler. Plug the disconnected
unions quickly to minimise fluid spillage.
12 Undo the two fluid cooler retaining nuts
and remove the cooler.

Refitting

13 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Bleed
the power steering gear as described in
Section 25 on completion.

28 Wheel alignment and

steering angles - general
information

4

1 Accurate front wheel alignment is essential
to provide positive steering and prevent
excessive tyre wear. Before considering the
steering/suspension geometry, check that the
tyres are correctly inflated, that the front
wheels are not buckled, and that the steering
linkage and suspension joints are in good
order, without slackness or wear.
2 Wheel alignment consists of four factors
(see illustration):

Camber is the angle at which the front

wheels are set from the vertical when viewed
from the front of the vehicle. “Positive
camber” is the amount (in degrees) that the
wheels are tilted outward at the top from the
vertical.

Castor is the angle between the steering

axis and a vertical line when viewed from each
side of the car. “Positive castor” is when the
steering axis is inclined rearward at the top.

Steering axis inclination is the angle (when

viewed from the front of the vehicle) between
the vertical and an imaginary line drawn
through the steering knuckle upper and lower
balljoints.

Toe setting is the amount by which the

distance between the front inside edges of the
roadwheels (measured at hub height) differs
from the diametrically opposite distance
measured between the rear inside edges of
the front roadwheels.

3 With the exception of the front and rear toe
setting, all other suspension and steering
angles are set during manufacture and no
adjustment is possible. It can be assumed,
therefore, that unless the vehicle has suffered
accident damage all the preset angles will be
correct. Should there be some doubt about
their accuracy it will be necessary to seek the
help of a Rover dealer, as special gauges are
needed to accurately check the suspension
and steering angles.
4 The front and rear toe settings are
adjustable, and two methods are available to
the home mechanic for doing this. One
method is to use a gauge to measure the
distance between the front and rear inside

Suspension and steering systems  10•19

28.2  Wheel alignment and steering angle

measurements

26.32b  . . . and mounting bolt (arrowed)

26.32a  Power steering pump adjusting nut

(arrowed) . . .

10

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

edges of the roadwheels. The other method is
to use a scuff plate, in which the roadwheel is
rolled across a movable plate which records
any deviation, or scuff, of the tyre relative to
the straight-ahead position, as it moves
across the plate. Relatively inexpensive
equipment of both types is available from
accessory outlets to enable these checks, and
subsequent adjustments, to be carried out at
home.

Toe setting - checking and
adjusting

Front wheel toe setting

5 With the car on level ground and the
steering in the straight-ahead position,
bounce the front and rear to settle the
suspension, then push the car backwards
then forwards. Follow the equipment
manufacturer’s instructions according to the
equipment being used, and check the toe
setting.
6 If adjustment is required, slacken the
steering track rod locknuts on both sides, and
release the rubber gaiter retaining clips (see
illustration).
7 Using a spanner engaged with the flat on
the inner track rod, turn both track rods, by
equal amounts clockwise to increase the toe-
in, or anti-clockwise to increase the toe-out.
Push the car forwards, then recheck the
setting. If a gauge is being used, take three
readings, at 120º intervals around the wheel,

pushing the car forward a little each time. Use
the mean average of the three readings as the
setting.
8 Repeat this procedure until the setting is as
specified, then tighten the track rod locknuts
and refit the gaiter clips. Ensure that the
gaiters are not twisted.

Rear wheel toe setting

9 With the car on level ground and the
steering in the straight-ahead position,
bounce the front and rear to settle the
suspension, then push the car backwards
then forwards. Follow the equipment
manufacturer’s instructions according to the
equipment being used, and check the toe
setting.
10 If adjustment is required, slacken the
adjustment plate-to-trailing link retaining bolt

locknut, and the eccentric bolt locknut on
each side (see illustration).
11 Turn both eccentric bolts, by equal
amounts in whichever direction is necessary,
then tighten the locknuts and recheck the toe
setting.
12 If a gauge is being used, take three
readings, at 120º intervals around the wheel,
pushing the car forward a little each time. Use
the mean average of the three readings as the
setting.
13 Repeat this procedure until the setting is
as specified, then fully tighten the retaining
bolt and eccentric bolt locknuts to the
specified torque.

10•20 Suspension and steering systems

28.6  Steering track rod locknut (A) and

gaiter clip (B)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

28.10  Rear wheel toe setting adjustment

points

1 Adjustment plate retaining bolt locknut
2 Eccentric bolt locknut
3 Eccentric bolt

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

11

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Bonnet hinge bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Boot lid hinge bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Door hinge-to-body bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

30

22

Door hinge-to-door bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

22

16

Front seat retaining bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

32

23

Seat belt retaining bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

32

23

Bumper retaining bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

22

16

Chapter 11 Bodywork and fittings

Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check  . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

Bonnet lock and release cable - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . .

7

Boot lid - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

Boot lid private lock - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Boot lid/tailgate and fuel filler flap release control - removal and 

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Boot lid/tailgate lock solenoid - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Boot lid/tailgate release cable - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Boot lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

Bumpers - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Centre console - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Door, boot, tailgate and bonnet check and lubrication  . .See Chapter 1
Facia - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Front door - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Front door cassette assembly (Coupe models) - removal and 

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Front door exterior handle - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Front door inner trim panel - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Front door interior handle - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Front door lock - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Front door mirror - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Front door private lock - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Front door window cable and drum assembly (Coupe models) - 

removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Front door window glass - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Front door window lift motor - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Front seats - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Fuel filler flap release cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

Maintenance - bodywork and underframe  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

Maintenance - upholstery and carpets  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

Major body damage - repair  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

Minor body damage - repair  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

Radiator grille - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Rear door - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Rear door exterior handle - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Rear door inner trim panel - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Rear door interior handle - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Rear door lock - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Rear door window glass - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Rear door window lift manual regulator - removal and refitting  . . . . 39
Rear door window lift motor - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Rear quarter light glass (Coupe models) - removal and refitting  . . . 40
Rear seats - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Rear seat squab release lever and cable - removal and refitting  . . . 44
Seat belts - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Seat belt check  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Sunroof - general information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Tailgate - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Tailgate lock - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Tailgate private lock - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Tailgate support strut - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Windscreen, rear window and tailgate glass - removal and refitting 20

11•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1

1

General information

1 The bodyshell and underframe is of all-steel
welded construction, and is of computer-
originated design. The assembly and welding
of the main body unit is completed entirely by
computer-controlled robots, and the finished
unit is checked for dimensional accuracy
using computer and laser technology. In
accordance with current practice, the
bodyshell incorporates computer-calculated
impact crumple zones at the front and rear,
with a centre safety cell passenger
compartment. During manufacture the body is
dip-primed, fully sealed and undercoated,
then painted with multi-layered base and top
coats.

Interior equipment electronic
control unit recalibration

2 Many of the vehicles covered by this
manual are equipped with sophisticated
interior electrical systems utilising electronic
control units (ECU’s) for their operation.
Whenever the battery is disconnected and
reconnected, some of these systems will not
work properly until a recalibration procedure
is carried out to restore the values lost from
the ECU memories. The systems affected and
the recalibration procedure is as follows.

Windows and sun roof

3 Operation of the windows and sun roof will
be accompanied by a repetitive warning
“bleep” and the “one-touch” function and
“back-off” function will not operate.
4 To restore correct operation, fully open the
driver’s door window, in one continuous
operation, using the controls on the driver’s
door. When the window is open fully, hold the
switch in the “on” position until the warning
bleep stops sounding.
5 Now shut the window, in one continuous
operation, and holding the switch in the “on”
position as before, until the warning bleep
stops.
6 Repeat the above operations on all the
other windows.
7 Fully open and then shut the sun roof,
holding the switch in the “on” position at the
end of each movement, until the warning
bleep stops.
8 Full operation of the electric windows and
sun roof should now be restored. If not, repeat
the recalibration sequence.

Lazy locking

9 The lazy locking function will not operate
and instead, a warning “bleep” will sound. Full
operation will be restored by carrying out the
procedures for the window and sun roof
memories, as described above.

Seat and mirror positions

10 All the preset positions contained in the
seat and mirror position memories will be lost.

Re-enter and save new positions using the
same procedure as for the original positions.

Radio cassette and CD player

11 The words “CODE” or “ROVER-C” will
appear on the digital display and the set will
not operate. Re-enter the security code as
described in the Rover in-car entertainment
booklet.

2

Maintenance - 
bodywork and underframe

1

The general condition of a vehicle’s

bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those parts of
the vehicle not immediately visible, for instance
the underside, inside all the wheel arches, and
the lower part of the engine compartment.

The basic maintenance routine for the

bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud, which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically
enough, the best time to clean the underframe
and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the
mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically, and this is
a good time for inspection.

Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-

based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the
underframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned,
engine compartment included, so that a
thorough inspection can be carried out to see
what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary. Steam-cleaning is available at
many garages, and is necessary for the
removal of the accumulation of oily grime,
which sometimes is allowed to become thick
in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are some excellent grease
solvents available which can be brush-
applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
Note that these methods should not be used
on vehicles with wax-based underbody
protective coating, or the coating will be
removed. Such vehicles should be inspected
annually, preferably just prior to Winter, when
the underbody should be washed down, and
any damage to the wax coating repaired.
Ideally, a completely fresh coat should be
applied. It would also be worth considering
the use of such wax-based protection for
injection into door panels, sills, box sections,
etc, as an additional safeguard against rust

damage, where such protection is not
provided by the vehicle manufacturer.

After washing paintwork, wipe off with a

chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish will
give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has
dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to be
taken with metallic paintwork, as special non-
abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to avoid
damage to the finish. Always check that the
door and ventilator opening drain holes and
pipes are completely clear, so that water can
be drained out. Brightwork should be treated in
the same way as paintwork. Windscreens and
windows can be kept clear of the smeary film
which often appears, by the use of proprietary
glass cleaner. Never use any form of wax or
other body or chromium polish on glass.

3

Maintenance - 
upholstery and carpets

1

Mats and carpets should be brushed or

vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free of
grit. If they are badly stained, remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging, and
make quite sure they are dry before refitting.
Seats and interior trim panels can be kept
clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they do
become stained (which can be more apparent
on light-coloured upholstery), use a little liquid
detergent and a soft nail brush to scour the
grime out of the grain of the material. Do not
forget to keep the headlining clean in the same
way as the upholstery. When using liquid
cleaners inside the vehicle, do not over-wet the
surfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp could
get into the seams and padded interior,
causing stains, offensive odours or even rot.

4

Minor body damage - 
repair

3

Note: For more detailed information about
bodywork repair, Haynes Publishing produce
a book by Lindsay Porter called “The Car
Bodywork Repair Manual”. This incorporates
information on such aspects as rust treatment,
painting and glass-fibre repairs, as well as
details on more ambitious repairs involving
welding and panel beating.

11•2 Bodywork and fittings

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

If the inside of the vehicle
gets wet accidentally, it is
worthwhile taking some
trouble to dry it out properly,

particularly where carpets are involved.
Do not leave oil or electric heaters
inside the vehicle for this purpose.