Rover 820, 825, 827. Repair Manual - part 10

4 Undo the three screws and lift off the
control box upper cover.
5 Release the wiring multiplugs from the
mounting brackets on the front of the control
box and disconnect them (see illustration).
Note their connections for refitting.
6 Remove the control box lower cover from
the valve plate assembly.
7 Undo the two screws securing the ignition
timing adjuster to the valve plate and
withdraw the adjuster from its location.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. On non-
catalyst equipped engines, adjust the ignition
timing as described in Section 10 on
completion.

10 Ignition timing - adjustment

3

General

1 The ignition timing is only adjustable on
non-catalyst equipped V6 engines; on all
other engines, ignition timing is controlled
entirely by the fuel or ignition system ECU.
2 All the following adjustments require the
use of a stroboscopic timing light.
Additionally, if the adjustment is being carried
out on 2.5 litre engines to allow the use of
unleaded fuel, the timing light will need to be
of the adjustable type which allows the unit to
be pre-set to the actual ignition timing value.
This is necessary because the timing marks
provided on the crankshaft pulley are only
applicable to leaded fuel adjustment.
However, by using an adjustable timing light,
the TDC mark on the pulley can be used
instead.

2.5 litre engines

Adjustment for use with leaded fuel

3 Remove the access cover under the right-
hand wheelarch.
4 Using a socket and bar on the crankshaft
pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft pulley, in the
normal direction of rotation, until the timing
marks are visible. Note that the timing marks

are four very small notches on the pulley inner
rim and are easily missed. The first notch
(usually coloured white) represents Top Dead
Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston on compression.
The next three notches are the actual timing
marks. The centre notch of the three
represents 13º BTDC (manual transmission) or
11º BTDC (automatic transmission). The
remaining two notches represent a timing
tolerance of ± 2º (see illustration).
5 Once the marks have been located, it is a
good idea to highlight them, and the pointer
on the timing belt cover, with a dab of quick-
drying white paint to make them easily
recognisable when using the timing light (see
illustration).
6 Start the engine and allow it to warm up to
normal operating temperature. Check that the
idling speed is correct and, if necessary,
adjust it as described in Chapter 1.
7 Switch the engine off and connect the
timing light to No 1 cylinder plug lead as
described in the timing light manufacturer’s
instructions. No 1 cylinder is on the rearmost
cylinder at the crankshaft pulley end (beneath
the brake master cylinder).
8 Start the engine again and allow it to idle.
Point the timing light at the timing marks. The
pointer on the timing belt cover should be
aligned with the appropriate notch on the
crankshaft pulley.
9 If adjustment is required, prise off the
plastic cap from the bolt securing the
distributor to the cylinder head, and slacken
the bolt slightly. Rotate the distributor body
clockwise to advance the timing, or anti-
clockwise to retard it, until the pointer and
pulley notch are aligned. Tighten the
distributor securing bolt, recheck that the
marks are still aligned, then refit the plastic
cap.
10 Switch off the engine and disconnect the
timing light. Refit the access cover under the
wheelarch.

Adjustment for use with unleaded fuel

11 As mentioned at the beginning of this
Section, an adjustable timing light will be
required for this operation.

12 Refer to paragraphs 3, 4 and 5 above and
highlight the TDC notch on the pulley and the
pointer on the timing belt cover. Note that the
other three timing marks are not used in the
following procedure and can be ignored.
13 Start the engine and allow it to warm up to
normal operating temperature. Check that the
idling speed is correct and, if necessary,
adjust it as described in Chapter 1.
14 Switch the engine off and connect the
timing light to No 1 cylinder plug lead as
described in the timing light manufacturer’s
instructions. No 1 cylinder is on the rearmost
cylinder at the crankshaft pulley end (beneath
the brake master cylinder).
15 Refer to the Specifications at the
beginning of this Chapter for the correct
ignition timing setting. Set the timing light to
this figure in accordance with the timing light
manufacturer’s instructions.
16 Start the engine again and allow it to idle.
Point the timing light at the timing marks. The
pointer on the timing belt cover should be
aligned with the TDC notch on the crankshaft
pulley.
17 If adjustment is required, prise off the
plastic cap from the bolt securing the
distributor to the cylinder head and slacken
the bolt slightly. Rotate the distributor body
clockwise to advance the timing, or anti-
clockwise to retard it, until the pointer and
pulley notch are aligned. Tighten the
distributor securing bolt, recheck that the
marks are still aligned, then refit the plastic
cap.
18 Switch off the engine and disconnect the
timing light. Refit the access cover under the
wheelarch.

2.7 litre engines

19 Remove the access cover under the right-
hand wheelarch.
20 Using a socket and bar on the crankshaft
pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft pulley, in the
normal direction of rotation, until the timing
marks are visible. Note that the timing marks
are four very small notches on the pulley inner
rim and are easily missed. The first notch
(usually coloured white) represents Top Dead
Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston on compression.
The next three notches are the actual timing

Engine electrical systems  5•7

10.5  Highlight the pointer on the timing

cover (arrowed) and the relevant pulley

notch with white paint

10.4  Timing mark identification on the

crankshaft pulley

A TDC notch
B Ignition timing setting notch
C ± 2º tolerance notches

9.5  Wiring multiplug connections on the

front of the control box

5

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

marks. The centre notch of the three (usually
coloured red) represents 15º BTDC. The
remaining two notches represent a timing
tolerance of ± 2º (see illustration 10.4).
21 If the engine is being adjusted to run on
unleaded fuel, it will be necessary to make an
additional notch on the pulley (the existing
notches are only applicable when adjusting
for use with leaded fuel). To do this, measure
the distance from notch C to notch B and
make an additional notch E, that distance
from C (see illustration). Use a small file to
make the new notch.
22 Once the marks have been located, it is a
good idea to highlight them, and the pointer
on the timing belt cover, with a dab of quick-
drying white paint to make them easily
recognisable when using the timing light.
23 Start the engine and allow it to warm up to
normal operating temperature. Check that the
idling speed is correct and, if necessary,
adjust it as described in Chapter 1.

24 Switch the engine off and connect the
timing light to No 1 cylinder plug lead as
described in the timing light manufacturer’s
instructions. No 1 cylinder is on the rearmost
cylinder at the crankshaft pulley end (beneath
the brake master cylinder).
25 Start the engine again and allow it to idle.
Point the timing light at the timing marks. The
pointer on the timing belt cover should be
aligned with the appropriate notch on the
crankshaft pulley.
26 If adjustment is required, slacken the two
screws securing the control box to the engine
compartment bulkhead. Undo the three
screws and lift off the control box upper cover
(see illustration).
27 Engage a small screwdriver with the
adjustment slot in the ignition timing adjuster
and turn the adjuster clockwise to advance
the timing or anti-clockwise to retard it (see
illustration).
28 Make a final check of the setting, then
switch off the engine and disconnect the
timing light. Refit the control box cover and
the access cover under the wheelarch.

11 Electronic control unit -

removal and refitting

1

Note: The following procedure is applicable to
4-cylinder engines with multi-point fuel
injection which use a separate ECU for the
ignition system. For all other engines the
ignition system is controlled by the fuel system
ECU and reference should be made to the

procedures contained in the relevant Parts of
Chapter 4.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Section 1 before doing this).
2 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from the
ECU (located on the left-hand side of the
engine compartment), either behind the
battery or on the bulkhead (see illustration).
To do this, press the retaining tab upwards,
release the bottom of the multiplug, then
disengage the top lug.
3 Disconnect the vacuum supply hose.
4 Undo the retaining screw, slide the unit out
of its mounting bracket to disengage the
retaining lug, and remove the ECU.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

12 Knock sensor - 

removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 The knock sensor (4-cylinder engines only)
is located in the centre of the rear-facing side
of the cylinder block, beneath the inlet
manifold.
2 Jack up the front of the car and support it
on stands.
3 Disconnect the wiring multiplug, then
unscrew the sensor from its location (see
illustrations).

5•8 Engine electrical systems

12.3a  Disconnect the knock sensor

multiplug (arrowed) . . .

11.2  Ignition ECU location on the engine

compartment bulkhead

10.27  Turn the ignition timing adjuster to

advance or retard the timing

10.26  Undo the three screws and lift off

the control box upper cover

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

10.21  Ignition timing adjustment on 

2.7 litre engines

1 Timing light
2 Timing cover pointer and TDC notch
A Pulley TDC notch
B 15º BTDC notch
C 13º BTDC notch
D 17º BTDC notch
E New notch position (11º BTDC) for

unleaded fuel setting

12.3b  . . . then unscrew the sensor

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the sensor and cylinder block mating
faces are clean.

13 Crankshaft sensor - 

removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 The crankshaft sensor, fitted to 4-cylinder
engines is attached to the transmission
adaptor plate on the rear facing side of the
engine.
2 Jack up the front of the car and support it
on stands.
3 Disconnect the multiplug from the
crankshaft sensor wiring socket (see
illustration).
4 Undo the retaining screw and remove the
wiring socket from its mounting bracket.
5 Undo the two bolts securing the crankshaft
sensor to the adaptor plate, and withdraw the
sensor, complete with spacer and wiring
socket.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the sensor and cylinder block mating
faces are clean.

14 Crank/cylinder sensor -

removal and refitting

4

Removal

1 The crank/cylinder sensor is located behind
the timing belt sprocket on the front facing
cylinder head of V6 engines.
2 Remove the timing belt and the front
camshaft sprocket as described in Chapter 2,
Part B.
3 Undo the four bolts and remove the timing
belt backplate from the front cylinder head
(see illustration).
4 Disconnect the crank/cylinder sensor wiring

multiplug and undo the cable clip retaining
bolt. Slip the sensor wiring harness grommet
out of the slot in the cylinder head (see
illustration).
5 Undo the two bolts and withdraw the
sensor from its location.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Refer to
Chapter 2, Part B for timing belt refitting and
adjustment procedures.

15 Charging system - general

information and precautions

General information

The charging system includes the

alternator, an internal voltage regulator, a no-
charge (or “ignition”) warning light, the
battery, and the wiring between all the
components. The charging system supplies
electrical power for the ignition system, the
lights, and all the cars accessories. The
alternator is driven by the alternator (auxiliary)
drivebelt from the crankshaft pulley.

The purpose of the voltage regulator is to

limit the alternator’s voltage to a preset value.
This prevents power surges, circuit overloads,
etc., during peak voltage output.

The charging system doesn’t ordinarily

require periodic maintenance. However, the

drivebelt, battery and the wires and
connections should be inspected at the
intervals outlined in Chapter 1.

The instrument panel warning light should

come on when the ignition key is turned to
positions “II” or “III”, then should go off
immediately the engine starts. If it remains on, or
if it comes on while the engine is running, there
is a malfunction in the charging system (see
Section 16). If the light does not come on when
the ignition key is turned, and the bulb is sound
(see Chapter 12), there is a fault in the alternator.

Precautions

Be very careful when making electrical

circuit connections to a vehicle equipped with
an alternator, and note the following:
(a) When reconnecting wires to the alternator

from the battery, be sure to note the polarity.

(b) Before using arc-welding equipment to

repair any part of the vehicle, disconnect
the wires from the alternator and the
battery terminals.

(c) Never start the engine with a battery

charger connected.

(d) Always disconnect both battery leads

before using a battery charger.

(e) The alternator is driven by an drivebelt

which could cause serious injury if your
hand, hair or clothes become entangled in
it with the engine running.

(f)

Because the alternator is connected
directly to the battery, it could arc or
cause a fire if overloaded or shorted-out.

(g) Wrap a plastic bag over the alternator, and

secure it with rubber bands, before steam-
cleaning or pressure-washing the engine.

(h) Never disconnect the alternator terminals

while the engine is running.

16 Charging system - testing

2

1 If a malfunction occurs in the charging
circuit, don’t automatically assume that the
alternator is causing the problem. First check
the following items:

Engine electrical systems  5•9

13.3  Crankshaft sensor attachments

14.4  Crank/cylinder sensor attachments

A Cable clip retaining bolt
B Wiring harness grommet
C Sensor retaining bolts

14.3  Remove the timing belt backplate

from the front cylinder head

5

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Wiring multiplug
2 Wiring socket

retaining screw

3 Sensor retaining

bolts

4 Crankshaft sensor
5 Spacer

(a) Check the tension and condition of the

alternator (auxiliary) drivebelt - renew it if it
is worn or deteriorated (see Chapter 1).

(b) Ensure the alternator mounting bolts and

nuts are tight.

(c) Inspect the alternator wiring harness and

the electrical connections at the
alternator; they must be in good
condition, and tight.

(d) Check the relevant fuses in the fusebox

(see Chapter 12). If any are blown,
determine the cause, repair the circuit
and renew the fuse (the vehicle won’t
start and/or the accessories won’t work if
the fuse is blown).

(e) Start the engine and check the alternator

for abnormal noises - for example, a
shrieking or squealing sound may indicate
a badly worn bearing or brush.

(f)

Make sure that the battery is fully-charged
- one bad cell in a battery can cause
overcharging by the alternator.

2 Using a voltmeter, check the battery
voltage with the engine off. It should be in
excess of 12 volts.
3 Start the engine and check the battery
voltage again. Increase engine speed until the
voltmeter reading remains steady; it should
now be approximately 13.5 to 14.5 volts.
4 Switch on as many electrical accessories (eg
the headlights, heated rear window and heater
blower) as possible, and check that the
alternator maintains the regulated voltage at
around 13 to 14 volts. The voltage may drop
and then come back up; it may also be

necessary to increase engine speed slightly,
even if the charging system is working properly.
5 If the voltage reading is greater than the
stated charging voltage, renew the voltage
regulator (see Section 18).
6 If the voltmeter reading is less than that
stated, the fault may be due to worn brushes,
weak brush springs, a faulty voltage regulator,
a faulty diode, a severed phase winding, or
worn or damaged slip rings. The brushes and
slip rings may be checked (see Section 18),
but if the fault persists, the alternator should
be renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for
testing and repair.

17 Alternator - 

removal and refitting

1

4-cylinder engines

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Section 1 before doing this).
2 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1.
3 Undo the two nuts and remove the
alternator rear cover.
4 Disconnect the electrical leads at the rear of
the alternator noting their locations for
reconnection 

(see illustration).

5 On cars with a rear-mounted power
steering pump, remove the previously-
slackened pivot bolt and adjustment arm bolt,

then withdraw the alternator from the engine.
6 On cars with a front-mounted power
steering pump, undo the alternator upper and
lower mounting bolts, and remove the unit.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Refit and
adjust the drivebelt (Chapter 1), before
tightening the adjustment and mounting bolts.

V6 engines

Removal

8 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Section 1 before doing this).
9 Undo the three bolts and one nut securing
the power steering pump and alternator pulley
covers to the top of the engine. Move the
pipes and cables clear and lift off the covers.
10 Slacken the alternator side pivot bolt and
lower mounting nut, then turn the adjusting
bolt anti-clockwise to release the tension on
the drivebelt (see illustrations).
11 Slip the drivebelt off the alternator pulley.
12 Pull back the rubber cap and unscrew the
main terminal nut, then remove the washers and
lead from the terminal stud (see illustration).
13 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from the
rear of the alternator and release the wiring
harness from the support bracket.
14 Remove the alternator mounting bolts/
nuts and the adjusting bolt then remove the
unit.

Refitting

15 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjust
the drivebelt as described in Chapter 1,
before tightening the mounting bolts/nuts.

18 Alternator brushes and

voltage regulator - inspection
and renewal

3

1 Remove the alternator as described in
Section 17 then proceed as described below
the relevant sub-heading.

A127 alternator - 4-cylinder
engines

2 Undo the three small screws securing the
regulator and brushbox assembly to the rear
of the alternator (see illustration).

5•10 Engine electrical systems

18.2  Undo the regulator and brushbox

retaining screws

17.12  Pull back the rubber cap and

unscrew the main terminal nut

17.10b  . . . and adjusting bolt (arrowed)

17.10a  V6 engine alternator side pivot bolt

(arrowed) . . .

17.4  Typical alternator wiring connections

(arrowed) on 4-cylinder engines

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

3 Tip the assembly upwards at the edge, and
withdraw it from its location. Disconnect the
wiring terminal and remove the regulator and
brushbox from the alternator (see illustrations).
4 Measure the brush length and renew the
brushbox and regulator assembly if the
brushes are worn below the figure given in the
Specifications (see illustration).
5 Clean the slip rings with a solvent-
moistened cloth, then check for signs of
scoring, burning or severe pitting. If evident,
the slip rings should be attended to by an
automobile electrician.
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

A133 alternator - 4-cylinder
engines

7 Disconnect the lead then undo the bolt and
remove the suppression capacitor from the
alternator rear cover.
8 Undo the two retaining screws and remove
the rear cover from the alternator.
9 Disconnect the regulator leads, undo the
retaining screws and remove the regulator
from the brush box.
10 Undo the retaining screws and extract the
brushes from the brush box.
11 Undo the retaining screws and withdraw
the brush box from the slip ring end bracket.
12 Measure the brush length and renew the
brushes if worn below the figure given in the
Specifications.
13 Clean the slip rings with a solvent-
moistened cloth, then check for signs of
scoring, burning or severe pitting. If evident,
the slip rings should be attended to by an
automobile electrician.
14 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

A1271 alternator - 4-cylinder
engines

15 The A1271 alternator fitted to later models
is only serviced as a complete assembly. No
parts are available separately and repairs to
the unit are not possible.

CGK 46 alternator - V6 engines

16 Undo the nut, remove the washer and slip
off the insulator from the alternator main feed
terminal. Note the position of the insulator slot
for refitting.

17 Undo the three end cover retaining nuts
and remove the cover.
18 Undo the two brush holder retaining
screws and withdraw the brush holder
complete with brushes.
19 Undo the four regulator retaining screws
and withdraw the regulator from the rectifier
assembly. Note the screw lengths and their
locations for refitting.
20 Withdraw the brushes from the brush
holder and measure their lengths. Renew the
brushes if worn below the figure given in the
Specifications.
21 Clean the slip rings with a solvent-
moistened cloth, then check for signs of
scoring, burning or severe pitting. If evident,
the slip rings should be attended to by an
automobile electrician.
22 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

19 Starting system - general

information and precautions

General information

The starting system consists of the battery,

the starter motor, the starter solenoid, and the
wires connecting them. The solenoid is
mounted directly on the starter motor.

When the ignition key is turned to position

“III”, the starter solenoid is actuated through
the starter control circuit. The solenoid then
connects the battery to the starter. The
battery supplies the electrical energy to the
starter motor, which does the actual work of
cranking the engine.

The starter motor on a vehicle equipped

with automatic transmission can be operated
only when the selector lever is in Park or
Neutral (“P” or “N”).

Precautions

Always observe the following precautions

when working on the starting system:
(a) Excessive cranking of the starter motor

can overheat it, and cause serious
damage. Never operate the starter motor
for more than 15 seconds at a time
without pausing to allow it to cool for at

least two minutes. Excessive starter
operation will also risk unburned fuel
collecting in the catalytic converter’s
element, causing it to overheat when the
engine does start (see Chapter 4, Part E).

(b) Always detach the lead from the negative

terminal of the battery before working on
the starting system (see Section 1).

20 Starting system - testing

2

1 If the starter motor does not turn at all when
the switch is operated, make sure that, on
automatic transmission models, the selector
lever is in Park or Neutral (“P” or “N”).
2 Make sure that the battery is fully-charged,
and that all leads, both at the battery and starter
solenoid terminals, are clean and secure.
3 Check the condition of the relevant fuse
and fusible link, referring to Chapter 12 and
the wiring diagrams at the end of this manual
for further information.
4 If the starter motor spins but the engine is
not cranking, the overrunning clutch or (when
applicable) the reduction gears in the starter
motor may be slipping, in which case the
starter motor must be overhauled or renewed.
(Other possibilities are that the starter motor
mounting bolts are very loose, or that teeth
are missing from the flywheel ring gear.)
5 If, when the switch is actuated, the starter
motor does not operate at all but the solenoid
clicks, then the problem lies with either the
battery, the main solenoid contacts, or the
starter motor itself (or the engine is seized).
6 If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard to
click when the switch is actuated, the battery
is faulty, there is a fault in the circuit, or the
solenoid itself is defective.
7 The solenoid contacts can be checked by
connecting a voltmeter or test light between
the battery positive feed connection on the
starter side of the solenoid, and earth. When
the ignition switch is turned to the “start”
position, there should be a reading or lighted
bulb, as applicable. If there is no reading or
lighted bulb, the solenoid is faulty and should
be renewed.

Engine electrical systems  5•11

18.4  Checking alternator brush length

18.3b  . . . and disconnect the wiring

18.3a  Withdraw the regulator and

brushbox . . .

5

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

8 If the starter motor still does not operate,
remove it (see Section 21). The brushes and
commutator may be checked (Section 22), but
if the fault persists, the motor should be
renewed, or taken to an auto-electrician for
testing and repair.
9 If the starter motor cranks the engine at an
abnormally-slow speed, first make sure that
the battery is charged, and that all terminal
connections are tight. If the engine is partially
seized, or has the wrong viscosity oil in it, it
will crank slowly.
10 If the engine is known to be OK, and with
the correct viscosity oil, but the cranking
speed is still slow, the solenoid contacts are
burned, the motor is faulty, or there is a poor
internal connection.

21 Starter motor - 

removal and refitting

1

4-cylinder engines

Note: On some models, the starter motor is
positioned under the inlet manifold, and
access is severely limited. No further
information was available at the time of writing.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
(Refer to Section 1 before doing this).

2 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 and
remove the air cleaner air intake trunking as
necessary to gain access to the starter motor.
3 Disconnect the main feed cable and the
Lucar spade connector at the solenoid.
4 Support the weight of the engine/
transmission with a jack, then unscrew and
remove the starter motor retaining bolts.
Withdraw the starter motor from the
transmission 

(see illustration).

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but tighten
the retaining bolts to the specified torque.

V6 engines

Removal

6 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Section 1 before doing this).
7 Undo the nut and remove the washer and
main feed cable from the solenoid terminal
stud.
8 Disconnect the smaller Lucar connector
from the other solenoid terminal.
9 Apply the handbrake, prise off the left-hand
front wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts.
Jack up the front of the car and support it on
axle stands. Remove the front roadwheel.
10 Undo the three retaining bolts and remove
the access panel from under the front wing.
11 Unscrew and remove the two starter motor
retaining bolts and withdraw the starter motor
from the transmission (see illustrations).

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

22 Starter motor - 

brush renewal

3

M78R starter motor - 4-cylinder
engines

1 Remove the starter motor from the car as
described in Section 21.
2 Undo the nut and detach the feed wire from
the solenoid terminal stud.
3 Undo the two nuts and two screws then
withdraw the commutator end bracket from
the yoke (see illustration).
4 Release the rubber grommet from the side
of the yoke and withdraw the brush holder
assembly complete with brushes (see
illustration).
5 Remove the brush springs from the brush
holder.
6 Unclip the earth brushes from the brush
holder.
7 Remove the insulator plate and withdraw
the remaining brushes complete with their
connector lead.
8 Clean and inspect the brush assemblies. If
the brushes have worn beyond (or down to)
the specified minimum length they must be
renewed as a set.

5•12 Engine electrical systems

22.10  Using pointed-nose pliers to

compress the brushes

22.4  Release the rubber grommet

(arrowed) and remove the brush holder

22.3  Withdraw the commutator end

bracket

21.11b  Removing the starter motor on 

V6 engines

21.11a  V6 engine starter motor lower

retaining bolt (arrowed)

21.4  Removing the starter motor on 

4-cylinder engines

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

9 Prior to refitting the brushes, check the
condition of the commutator face on which
they run. Wipe the commutator with a solvent-
moistened cloth. If the commutator is dirty, it
may be cleaned with fine glass paper, then
wiped with the cloth.
10 Fit the new brushes using a reversal of the
removal procedure. When refitting the brush
holder assembly, carefully compress the
brushes one at a time using pointed-nose
pliers, tip the holder slightly and ease the
brushes over the commutator (see
illustration).

M79 starter motor - 
4-cylinder engines

11 Undo the two retaining screws and
remove the end cap and seal.
12 Wipe free the grease from the end of the
armature shaft then prise free and remove the
C-clip from the shaft groove. Remove the
spacer(s).

13 Unscrew the retaining nut and detach the
connecting link from the solenoid.
14 Undo the two retaining screws and
withdraw the solenoid yoke from the drive end
housing. Lift it upwards and disengage the
solenoid armature from the actuation lever in
the end housing.
15 Unscrew and remove the two through-
bolts then remove the commutator end
housing from the yoke and armature unit.
16 Detach the brush housing insulator and
withdraw the brushes from the housing.
17 If the brushes have worn down to or
beyond the minimum length specified, they
must be renewed as a set. To renew them, cut
their leads mid-point and make a secure
soldered joint when connecting the new
brushes.
18 Prior to refitting the brushes, check the
condition of the commutator face on which
they run. Wipe the commutator with a solvent-
moistened cloth. If the commutator is dirty, it
may be cleaned with fine glass paper, then
wiped with the cloth.

19 Fit the new brushes and reassemble the
starter motor unit using a reversal of the
removal procedure. Make sure that the
brushes move freely in their holders. When
fitting the armature unit to the yoke, engage
the actuating arm in the drive end housing
together with the plastic bracket (locates in
the notch in the yoke face) and rubber block.
Ensure that the drive end housing is correctly
aligned before fully tightening the retaining
screws.

DR 5U1 starter motor - 
V6 engines

20 Brushes are not separately available for
this starter motor and, should renewal be
necessary, a complete brush holder and yoke
assembly must be obtained. As this is likely to
be prohibitively expensive, a better alternative
may be to obtain a complete reconditioned
starter motor, or seek the advice of an
automobile electrician.

Engine electrical systems  5•13

5

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

9

General

System type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Diagonally-split, dual-circuit hydraulic with pressure-reducing valve in
rear hydraulic circuit and cable operated handbrake. Anti-lock braking
system (ABS) available as standard or optional equipment on later
models.

Front brakes

Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Ventilated disc with single-piston sliding calipers

Disc diameter:

4-cylinder engine models without turbo  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

262.0 mm

4-cylinder turbo engine models and V6 engine models  . . . . . . . . . . .

285.0 mm

Disc thickness:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

21.0 mm

Minimum  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

19.0 mm

Maximum thickness variation  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.015 mm

Maximum disc run-out  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.040 mm

Brake pad thickness (including backing but excluding shims):

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

17.4 mm

Minimum  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8.2 mm

ABS wheel speed sensor-to-reluctor ring clearance  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.30 to 1.02 mm

Rear brakes

Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Solid disc with single-sliding calipers

Disc diameter  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

260.0 mm

Disc thickness:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10.0 mm

Minimum  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8.0 mm

Maximum thickness variation  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.015 mm

Maximum disc run-out  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.040 mm

Brake pad thickness (including backing):

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

14.5 mm

Minimum  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7.2 mm

ABS wheel speed sensor-to-reluctor ring clearance  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.055 to 1.11 mm

Chapter 9 Braking system

Anti-lock braking system - component removal and refitting  . . . . . . 25
Anti-lock braking system - general information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Brake fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Brake fluid renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Brake pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Front brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

Front brake caliper - overhaul  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

Front brake caliper - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

Front brake pads - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

Handbrake - adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Handbrake cable (front) - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Handbrake cable (rear) - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Handbrake lever - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Hydraulic pipes and hoses - inspection, removal and refitting  . . . . . 15
Hydraulic system - bleeding  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

Master cylinder - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Master cylinder (ABS models) - overhaul  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Master cylinder (non-ABS models) - overhaul  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Pressure-reducing valve - general information, 

removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Rear brake caliper - overhaul  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

Rear brake caliper - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

Rear brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Rear brake pads - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

Stop-light switch - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . .See Chapter 1
Vacuum servo unit - general information and testing  . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Vacuum servo unit - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

9•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1

Handbrake

Handbrake linkage lever-to-stop pin clearance  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.5 to 2.0 mm

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Caliper guide pin bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

33

24

Front caliper carrier bracket to steering knuckle  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75

55

Rear caliper carrier bracket to hub carrier  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Caliper bleed screws  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Brake hose banjo union bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

35

26

Brake pipe union nuts:

M10  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

15

11

M12  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

22

16

Brake disc retaining screws  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12

9

Handbrake linkage cover to rear caliper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Handbrake lever to floor  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Handbrake front cable guide plate bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Handbrake rear cable support clip bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Master cylinder to servo unit nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Servo unit to bulkhead nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Brake pedal pivot bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Pressure reducing valve mounting bracket bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Hydraulic modulator mounting nuts (ABS)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Wheel speed sensor to sensor bracket bolt (ABS)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Wheel speed sensor bracket bolts (ABS)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Wheel speed sensor wiring clips and bracket bolts (ABS)  . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Copy valve mounting bracket bolts (ABS)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Roadwheel nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

110

81

9•2 Braking system 

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1

General information

The braking system is of the servo-

assisted, dual-circuit hydraulic type,
incorporating disc brakes at the front and
rear. A diagonally-split dual circuit hydraulic
system is employed, in which each circuit
operates one front and one diagonally
opposite rear brake from a tandem master
cylinder. Under normal conditions, both
circuits operate in unison; however, in the
event of hydraulic failure in one circuit, full
braking force will still be available at two
wheels. A pressure-reducing valve is
incorporated in the rear brake hydraulic
circuit. This valve regulates the hydraulic
pressure applied to each rear brake, and
reduces the possibility of the rear wheels
locking under heavy braking.

Self-adjusting single-piston sliding type

calipers are used in conjunction with
ventilated and solid discs at the front and rear
respectively. A cable-operated handbrake
provides an independent mechanical means
of rear brake application.

An anti-lock braking system (ABS) is

available on some models and features many
of the components in common with the
conventional braking system. Further details
on the ABS can be found later in this Chapter.
Note: When servicing any part of the system,
work carefully and methodically; also observe
scrupulous cleanliness when overhauling any
part of the hydraulic system. Always renew

components (in axle sets, where applicable) if
in any doubt about their condition, and use
only genuine Rover or Unipart replacement
parts, or at least those of known good quality.
Note the warnings given in “Safety First” at the
beginning of this manual and at relevant points
in this Chapter concerning the dangers of
asbestos dust and hydraulic fluid.

2

Hydraulic system - bleeding

3

Warning: Hydraulic fluid is
poisonous; wash off
immediately and thoroughly in
the case of skin contact, and

seek immediate medical advice if any fluid
is swallowed or gets into the eyes. Certain
types of hydraulic fluid are inflammable,
and may ignite when allowed into contact
with hot components; when servicing any
hydraulic system, it is safest to assume
that the fluid IS inflammable, and to take
precautions against the risk of fire as
though it is petrol that is being handled.
Finally, it is hygroscopic (it absorbs
moisture from the air). The more moisture
is absorbed by the fluid, the lower its
boiling point becomes, leading to a
dangerous loss of braking under hard use.
Old fluid may be contaminated and unfit
for further use. When topping-up or
renewing the fluid, always use the
recommended type, and ensure that it
comes from a freshly-opened sealed
container. 

General

1 The correct functioning of the brake
hydraulic system is only possible after
removing all air from the components and
circuit; this is achieved by bleeding the
system.
2 During the bleeding procedure, add only
clean, fresh hydraulic fluid of the specified
type; never re-use fluid that has already been
bled from the system. Ensure that sufficient
fluid is available before starting work.
3 If there is any possibility of incorrect fluid
being used in the system, the brake lines and
components must be completely flushed with
uncontaminated fluid and new seals fitted to
the components.
4 If brake fluid has been lost from the master
cylinder due to a leak in the system, ensure
that the cause is traced and rectified before
proceeding further.
5 Park the vehicle on level ground, switch off
the ignition and select first gear (manual
transmission) or Park (automatic transmission)
then chock the wheels and release the
handbrake.
6 Check that all pipes and hoses are secure,
unions tight, and bleed screws closed.
Remove the dust caps and clean any dirt from
around the bleed screws.

Hydraulic fluid is an
effective paint stripper, and
will attack plastics; if any is
spilt, it should be washed off

immediately, using copious quantities
of clean water. 

7 Unscrew the master cylinder reservoir cap,
and top up the reservoir to the “MAX” level
line. Do not invert the cap or hydraulic fluid
may short out the cap contacts causing the
warning light on the instrument panel to flash.
Refit the cap loosely, and remember to
maintain the fluid level at least above the
“MIN” level line throughout the procedure,
otherwise there is a risk of further air entering
the system.
8 There are a number of one-man, do-it-
yourself, brake bleeding kits currently
available from motor accessory shops. It is
recommended that one of these kits is used
wherever possible, as they greatly simplify the
bleeding operation, and also reduce the risk
of expelled air and fluid being drawn back into
the system. If such a kit is not available, the
basic (two-man) method must be used, which
is described in detail below.
9 If a kit is to be used, prepare the vehicle as
described previously, and follow the kit
manufacturer’s instructions, as the procedure
may vary slightly according to the type being
used; generally, they are as outlined below in
the relevant sub-section.
10 Whichever method is used, the correct
sequence must be followed (paragraphs 11 to
15) to ensure the removal of all air from the
system.

Bleeding sequence

11 If the hydraulic system has only been
partially disconnected and suitable
precautions were taken to minimise fluid loss,
it should only be necessary to bleed that part
of the system (ie the primary or secondary
circuit).
12 If the complete system is to be bled, then
it should be done in the following sequence:

Non-ABS models

(a) Left-hand front wheel.
(b) Right-hand rear wheel.
(c) Right-hand front wheel.
(d) Left-hand rear wheel.

ABS-models

13 Two types of ABS system may be fitted to
models covered by this manual. Although
generally similar in operation, the bleeding
sequence is different for each, and it is
necessary to identify the system being
worked on before proceeding.
14 The easiest way to distinguish between
the two types is to locate the hydraulic
modulator unit in the engine compartment
and note the arrangement of the hydraulic
pipe connections. On the early type modulator
there are six pipe connections; four on the
upper face and two on the front face. On the
later modulator there are also six pipe
connections but all are on the front face of the
unit.
15 Having identified the unit fitted, the
bleeding sequence is as follows:

Early type modulator
(a) Left-hand front wheel.
(b) Right-hand rear wheel.
(c) Right-hand front wheel.
(d) Left-hand rear wheel.
Later type modulator
(a) Left-hand front wheel.
(b) Right-hand front wheel.
(c) Left-hand rear wheel.
(d) Right-hand rear wheel.

Bleeding - basic (two-man)
method

16 Collect a clean glass jar and a length of
plastic or rubber tubing, which is a tight fit
over the bleed screw, and a ring spanner to fit
the screws. The help of an assistant will also
be required.
17 If not already done, remove the dust cap
from the bleed screw of the first wheel to be
bled and fit a spanner and tube to the screw.
18 Immerse the other end of the bleed tube
in the jar, which should contain enough fluid
to cover the end of the tube.
19 Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir
fluid level is maintained at least above the
“MIN” level line throughout the procedure.
20 Open the bleed screw about half a turn,
and have your assistant depress the brake
pedal with a smooth steady stroke down to
the floor, and then hold it there. When the flow
of fluid through the tube stops, tighten the
bleed screw and have your assistant release
the pedal slowly.
21 Repeat this operation (paragraph 20) until
clean brake fluid, free from air bubbles, can
be seen flowing from the end of the tube.
22 When no more air bubbles appear, tighten
the bleed screw, remove the bleed tube and
refit the dust cap. Repeat these procedures
on the remaining bleed screws in sequence
until all air is removed from the system and
the brake pedal feels firm again.

Bleeding - using a one-way
valve kit

23 As their name implies, these kits consist
of a length of tubing with a one-way valve
fitted, to prevent expelled air and fluid being
drawn back into the system; some kits
incorporate a translucent container, which
can be positioned so that the air bubbles can
be more easily seen flowing from the end of
the tube.
24 The kit is connected to the bleed screw,
which is then opened. The user returns to the
driver’s seat, depresses the brake pedal with
a smooth steady stroke, and slowly releases
it; this is repeated until the expelled fluid is
clear of air bubbles.
25 Note that these kits simplify work so
much that it is easy to forget the master
cylinder fluid level; ensure that this is
maintained at least above the “MIN” level line
at all times.

Bleeding - using a pressure-
bleeding kit

26 These kits are usually operated by the
reserve of pressurised air contained in the
spare tyre. However, note that it will be
necessary to reduce the pressure to a lower
level than normal; refer to the instructions
supplied with the kit.
27 By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filled
container to the master cylinder reservoir,
bleeding is carried out by opening each bleed
screw in turn (in the specified sequence) and
allowing fluid to run out, rather like turning on
a tap, until no air bubbles can be seen in the
expelled fluid.
28 This method has the advantage that the
large reservoir of fluid provides an additional
safeguard against air being drawn into the
system during bleeding.
29 Pressure bleeding is particularly effective
when bleeding “difficult” systems, or when
bleeding the complete system at the time of
routine fluid renewal.

All methods

30 When bleeding is completed, check and
top up the fluid level in the master cylinder
reservoir.
31 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If it
feels at all spongy, air must still be present in
the system, and further bleeding is indicated.
Failure to bleed satisfactorily after a
reasonable repetition of the bleeding
operations may be due to worn master
cylinder seals.
32 Discard brake fluid which has been bled
from the system; it will not be fit for re-use.

3

Front brake pads - 
renewal

2

Warning: Disc brake pads must
be renewed on both front
wheels at the same time - never
renew the pads on only one

wheel as uneven braking may result. Dust
created by wear of the pads may contain
asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never
blow it out with compressed air and do not
inhale any of it. DO NOT use petroleum-
based solvents to clean brake parts. Use
brake cleaner or methylated spirit only. DO
NOT allow any brake fluid, oil or grease to
contact the brake pads or disc. Also refer
to the warning at the start of Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydraulic 
fluid.
Note: New caliper lower guide pin bolts will be
required for refitting.
1 Apply the handbrake, remove the front
wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack
up the front of the car and support it on axle
stands. Remove the front roadwheels.
2 Where fitted, disconnect the pad wear
warning light wiring plug (left-hand caliper
only) and using a spanner, unscrew the lower

Braking system  9•3

9

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

guide pin bolt while holding the guide pin with
a second spanner (see illustrations).
3 Pivot the caliper body upwards and tie it
up, using a length of string, under the
wheelarch (see illustration).
4 Lift out the two brake pads together with
their shims then, where fitted, remove the
upper and lower anti-rattle shims from the
caliper carrier bracket (see illustrations). If
the pads are to be re-used, identify them so
that they can be refitted in their original
positions.
5 Remove the heat shield from the caliper
piston (see illustration).
6 Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper,
piston, disc, and pads, but do not inhale it, as
it is injurious to health.
7 Rotate the disc by hand, and scrape away
any rust and scale. Carefully inspect the entire
surface of the disc, and if there are any signs
of cracks, deep scoring or severe abrasions,
the disc must be renewed.
8 Inspect the caliper for fluid leaks around the
piston, signs of corrosion, or other damage.
Check the guide pin rubber boots for
condition, and the pins themselves for free
movement in the carrier bracket. Renew any
suspect parts as necessary, with reference to
Section 5.
9 If new pads are to be fitted, it will be
necessary to push the caliper piston back into
its bore to accommodate the new, thicker
pads. To do this first remove the dust cap,
then fit a tube over the end of the bleed

9•4 Braking system 

3.5  Remove the heat shield from the

caliper piston

3.4c  . . . and lower anti-rattle shim

3.4b  Remove the upper anti-rattle shim . . .

3.4a  Lift out the brake pads together with

their shims

3.3  Pivot the caliper body upwards

3.2b  Unscrew the caliper lower guide pin

bolt

3.2a  Front brake pad renewal

1 Pad wear warning light

wiring plug (where fitted)

2 Lower guide pin bolt
3 Caliper body

4 Brake pads
5 Pad shims
6 Anti-rattle shim (where

fitted)

7 Piston heat shield
8 Bleed screw
9 Using a G-clamp to retract

the caliper piston

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

screw. Submerge the free end of the tube in a
jar containing a small quantity of brake fluid.
10 Open the bleed screw approximately half
a turn, then push the piston back into its bore,
as far as it will go, using a G-clamp, or pieces
of wood, as levers. When the piston has fully
retracted, close the bleed screw, remove the
tube and refit the dust cap.
11 To refit the pads, first place the anti-rattle
shims (where fitted) in position in the carrier
bracket and fit the heat shield to the piston.
12 Place the shims against the backs of the
pads, then fit the pads to the carrier bracket. If
working on the left-hand caliper, the pad with
the warning light lead must be fitted nearest
to the centre of the car.
13 Swing the caliper down over the pads and
secure it with a new guide pin bolt. Tighten
the bolt to the specified torque.
14 Reconnect the warning light wiring plug
(where applicable).
15 Repeat the above procedure on the
opposite front brake caliper.
16 Refit the roadwheels and lower the car to
the ground.
17 Tighten the roadwheel nuts to the
specified torque and refit the wheel trims.
18 Depress the brake pedal several times to
bring the pistons into contact with the pads
then check, and if necessary top up, the fluid
in the master cylinder reservoir.

4

Front brake caliper - 
removal and refitting

3

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, and
to the warning at the beginning of Section 3
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.
Note: New caliper guide pin bolts and brake
hose copper washers will be required for
refitting.

Removal

1 Apply the handbrake, remove the front
wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack
up the front of the car and support it on axle
stands. Remove the front roadwheel.

2 If working on the left-hand caliper,
disconnect the pad wear warning light wiring
plug (where fitted) and release the wiring
harness from the support clip.
3 Using a brake hose clamp, or self-locking
wrench with protected jaws, clamp the flexible
brake hose. This will minimise fluid loss during
subsequent operations.
4 Wipe clean the area around the brake hose
connection at the caliper then unscrew the
brake hose banjo union bolt at the caliper
body, and recover the two copper washers.
Tape over the hose union and caliper orifice to
prevent dirt ingress.
5 Using a spanner, unscrew the lower guide
pin bolt while holding the guide pin with a
second spanner.
6 Unscrew the upper guide pin bolt in the
same way, then lift away the caliper, leaving
the brake pads and carrier bracket in place.
7 If the carrier bracket is to be removed, undo
the two bolts securing it to the steering
knuckle, and remove the bracket complete
with brake pads (see illustration). The pads
can be removed, if required, with reference to
Section 3.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure
that new guide pin bolts are fitted and tighten
all fastenings to the specified torque. Use new
copper washers on the brake hose banjo
union, and bleed the hydraulic system as
described in Section 2.

5

Front brake caliper - 
overhaul

4

1 Remove the caliper from the car as
described in the previous Section.
2 With the caliper on the bench wipe away all
traces of dust and dirt, but do not inhale it, as
it is injurious to health.

3 Remove the heat shield from the caliper
piston (see illustration).
4 Using low air pressure, such as from a tyre
foot pump, eject the piston by holding the
pump hose against the caliper fluid inlet port.
5 Remove the dust cover from the piston.
6 Using a blunt instrument such as a knitting
needle, carefully extract the piston seal from
the caliper bore.
7 Clean all the parts in methylated spirit, or
clean brake fluid, and dry with a lint-free cloth.
Inspect the piston and caliper bore for signs
of damage, scuffing or corrosion, and if these
conditions are evident, renew the caliper
assembly complete. Renew the guide pins in
the carrier bracket if they are bent or
damaged, or if their rubber boots are split or
perished.
8 If the components are in a satisfactory
condition, a repair kit consisting of new seals
and dust cover should be obtained.
9 Thoroughly lubricate the caliper bore,
piston, piston seal and dust cover with clean
brake fluid, and carefully fit the seal to the
caliper bore.
10 Position the dust cover over the innermost
end of the piston, so that the caliper bore
sealing lip protrudes beyond the base of the
piston. Using a blunt instrument, if necessary,
engage the sealing lip of the dust cover with
the groove in the caliper. Now push the piston
into the caliper bore until the other sealing lip
of the dust cover can be engaged with the
groove in the piston. Having done this, push
the piston fully into its bore. Ease the piston
out again slightly, and make sure that the dust
cover lip is correctly seating in the piston
groove.
11 Remove the guide pins from the carrier
bracket, if not already done, and smear them
with high-melting-point brake grease. Fit new
rubber boots to the guide pins if necessary,
and refit them to the carrier bracket.
12 The caliper can now be refitted as
described in the previous Section.

Braking system  9•5

5.3  Front brake caliper components

4.7  Carrier bracket-to-steering knuckle

retaining bolts (arrowed)

9

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Guide pin rubber

boot

2 Caliper body
3 Guide pin bolt
4 Guide pin
5 Piston heat shield
6 Piston
7 Dust cover
8 Piston seal
9 Bleed screw

10 Clip

6

Front brake disc - inspection,
removal and refitting

2

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 3
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Inspection

1 Apply the handbrake, remove the front
wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack
up the front of the car and support it on axle
stands. Remove the front roadwheel.

2 Undo the two bolts securing the brake
caliper carrier bracket to the steering knuckle.
3 Withdraw the carrier bracket, complete with
caliper and brake pads, from the disc and
steering knuckle. Tie the caliper assembly
from a convenient place under the wheelarch
to avoid straining the brake hose.
4 Rotate the disc and examine it for deep
scoring or grooving on both sides. Light
scoring is normal, but if excessive the disc
must be renewed.
5 Using a micrometer, measure the disc
thickness at four places around the disc at
about 10.0 mm in from the outer edge (see
illustration). Compare the thickness with the
figures given in the Specifications.
6 If a dial test indicator is available, check the

disc run-out by mounting the indicator with its
probe positioned about 6.0 mm in from the
outer edge of the disc. Rotate the disc slowly,
noting the reading on the indicator. Compare
this with the figures given in the Specifications.
7 If the disc thickness, or thickness variation,
is outside the figures given in the
Specifications, the disc must be renewed. If
the disc run-out is excessive, remove the disc,
turn it through 180º, refit it and check the run-
out once more. If still excessive, renewal of
the disc is necessary.

Removal

8 Remove the brake caliper and carrier
bracket as described in paragraphs 1 to 3.
9 Undo the two retaining screws and
withdraw the disc from the hub flange (see
illustrations). If it is tight, tap it lightly from
behind using a hide or plastic mallet.

Refitting

10 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure
that the mating face of the disc and hub
flange are thoroughly clean, and tighten all
retaining bolts to the specified torque.

7

Rear brake pads - renewal

2

Warning: Disc brake pads must
be renewed on both rear wheels
at the same time - never renew
the pads on only one wheel as

uneven braking may result. Dust created
by wear of the pads may contain asbestos,
which is a health hazard. Never blow it out

9•6 Braking system 

7.2a  Rear brake pad renewal

1 Pad wear warning light wiring plug (where

fitted)

2 Guide pin bolt
3 Caliper body

4 Brake pad
5 Anti-rattle shim (where fitted)
6 Bleed screw
7 Piston

6.9b  . . . and withdraw the disc from the

hub flange

6.9a  Undo the two retaining screws

(arrowed) . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Micrometer
2 Specified disc thickness
3 Dial test indicator

6.5  Checking front brake disc thickness and run-out

with compressed air and do not inhale any
of it. DO NOT use petroleum-based
solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake
cleaner or methylated spirit only. DO NOT
allow any brake fluid, oil or grease to
contact the brake pads or disc. Also refer
to the warning at the start of Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
Note: New caliper guide pin bolts will be
required for refitting.
1 Chock the front wheels, remove the wheel
trim and slacken the rear wheel nuts. Jack up
the rear of the car and support it on axle
stands. Remove the rear roadwheels and
ensure that the handbrake is released.
2 On early models, undo the three handbrake
linkage cover securing bolts and remove the
cover from the caliper (see illustrations).
3 Where fitted, disconnect the pad wear
warning light wiring plug (left-hand caliper).
4 Using a spanner, unscrew the upper and
lower guide pin bolts (see illustration).
5 Withdraw the caliper and handbrake linkage
assembly from the brake pads and carrier
bracket.
6 Lift out the two brake pads, then, where
fitted, remove the upper and lower anti-rattle
shims from the caliper carrier bracket (see
illustrations). If the pads are to be re-used,
identify them so that they can be refitted in
their original positions.
7 Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper,
piston, disc, and pads, but do not inhale it, as
it is injurious to health.

8 Rotate the disc by hand, and scrape away
any rust and scale. Carefully inspect the entire
surface of the disc, and if there are any signs
of cracks, deep scoring or severe abrasions,
the disc must be renewed.
9 Inspect the caliper for fluid leaks around the
piston, signs of corrosion, or other damage.
Check the guide pin rubber boots for
condition, and the pins themselves for free
movement in the carrier bracket. Renew any
suspect parts as necessary, with reference to
Section 9.
10 If new pads are to be fitted, it will be
necessary to screw the caliper piston into its
bore to accommodate the new, thicker pads.
Remove the dust cap and fit a tube over the
end of the bleed screw. Submerge the free
end of the tube in a jar containing a small
quantity of brake fluid.
11 Open the bleed screw approximately half
a turn, then screw the piston back fully into its
bore by turning it clockwise with a pair of
angled circlip pliers or other similar tool (see
illustration). If necessary, turn the piston up
to 1/4 turn anti-clockwise so that one of 
the cutouts will align with the projection on
the inboard pad. Now close the bleed 
screw, remove the tube and refit the
protective cap.
12 To refit the pads, first place the anti-rattle
shims (where fitted) in position in the carrier
bracket.
13 Fit the pads to the carrier bracket, noting
that the pad with the warning light lead (left-

hand caliper only) must be fitted nearest to
the centre of the car.
14 Place the caliper over the pads, and
secure with new guide pin bolts, tightened to
the specified torque.
15 Refit the warning light wiring plug (where
applicable) and the handbrake linkage cover.
16 Depress the brake pedal several times to
automatically adjust the brake pads and the
handbrake linkage. Do not apply the
handbrake until the rear pads have self-
adjusted otherwise incorrect brake operation
will result.
17 Repeat the above procedure on the
opposite rear brake unit.
18 Check, and if necessary top up, the fluid
in the master cylinder reservoir then refit the
roadwheels and lower the car to the ground.
Tighten the roadwheel nuts to the specified
torque and refit the wheel trim.

8

Rear brake caliper - 
removal and refitting

3

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, and
to the warning at the beginning of Section 7
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.
Note: New caliper guide pin bolts and brake
hose copper washers will be required for
refitting.

Braking system  9•7

7.6a  Lift out the two brake pads . . .

7.4  Rear caliper upper and lower guide pin

bolt locations (arrowed)

7.2b  Undo the three handbrake linkage

cover retaining bolts (arrowed)

7.11  Using angled circlip pliers to screw

the piston back into the caliper. Note the

position of the cut-outs

7.6c  . . . and lower anti-rattle shim

7.6b  . . . followed by the upper anti-rattle

shim . . .

9

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels, remove the wheel
trim and slacken the rear wheel nuts. Jack up
the rear of the car and support it on axle
stands. Remove the rear roadwheel and
ensure that the handbrake is released.
2 Undo the three bolts securing the
handbrake linkage cover, and remove the
cover from the side of the caliper.
3 On the left-hand caliper, disconnect the
pad wear warning light wiring plug (where
fitted) and release the wiring from the support
clip.
4 Undo the two bolts and remove the front
half of the handbrake linkage cover.
5 Extract the retaining clip and withdraw the
clevis pin from the end of the handbrake cable
(see illustration).
6 Prise off the handbrake cable retaining clip
and withdraw the cable from the mounting
bracket.
7 To minimise fluid loss, clamp the flexible
hose using a brake hose clamp, or self-
locking wrench with protected jaws.
8 Wipe clean the area around the brake hose
connection at the caliper then unscrew the
brake hose banjo union bolt at the caliper
body, and recover the two copper washers.
Tape over the hose union and caliper orifice to
prevent dirt ingress.
9 Using a spanner, unscrew the upper and
lower guide pin bolts.
10 Withdraw the caliper and handbrake
linkage assembly from the brake pads and
carrier bracket, and remove it from the car.
11 If the carrier bracket is to be removed,
undo the two bolts securing it to the hub
carrier, and remove the bracket complete with
brake pads. The pads can be removed, if
required, with reference to Section 7.

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
tighten all bolts to the specified torque. Use
new copper washers on the brake hose banjo
union, and bleed the hydraulic system as
described in Section 2. Do not apply the
handbrake until the rear brakes have been
bled otherwise incorrect brake operation will
result.

9

Rear brake caliper - 
overhaul

4

1 Remove the caliper from the car as
described in the previous Section.
2 With the caliper on the bench wipe away all
traces of dust and dirt, but do not inhale it, as
it is injurious to health.
3 Undo the two bolts and remove the
handbrake linkage bracket assembly from the
caliper.
4 Using a pair of angled circlip pliers or other
similar tool, turn the piston anti-clockwise to
unscrew it from the caliper.
5 Remove the dust cover from the piston
(see illustration).
6 Using a blunt instrument such as a knitting
needle, carefully extract the piston seal from
the caliper bore.
7 Clean all the parts in methylated spirit, or
clean brake fluid, and dry with a lint-free cloth.
Inspect the piston and caliper bore for signs
of damage, scuffing or corrosion, and if these
conditions are evident, renew the caliper
assembly complete. Renew the guide pins in
the carrier bracket if they are bent or
damaged, or if their rubber boots are split or
perished.
8 If the components are in a satisfactory
condition, a repair kit consisting of new seals
and dust cover should be obtained.
9 Thoroughly lubricate the caliper bore,
piston, piston seal and dust cover with clean
brake fluid, and carefully fit the seal to the
caliper bore.
10 Position the dust cover over the innermost
end of the piston, so that the caliper bore
sealing lip protrudes beyond the base of the
piston. Using a blunt instrument, if necessary,
engage the sealing lip of the dust cover with
the groove in the caliper. Screw the piston
into the caliper bore until the other sealing lip
of the dust cover can be engaged with the
groove in the piston. With the piston screwed
in all the way, make sure that the dust cover is

correctly located in the piston and caliper
grooves.
11 Remove the guide pins from the carrier
bracket, if not already done, and smear them
with high-melting-point brake grease. Fit new
rubber boots to the guide pins and refit them
to the carrier bracket. Ensure that the guide
pin with the rubber insert is fitted in the
rearmost position.
12 Attach the handbrake linkage bracket
assembly to the caliper and secure with the
two bolts.
13 The caliper can now be refitted to the car
as described in the previous Section.

10 Rear brake disc - inspection,

removal and refitting

2

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 7
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Inspection

1 Chock the front wheels, remove the wheel
trim and slacken the rear wheel nuts. Jack up
the rear of the car and support it on axle
stands. Remove the rear roadwheel and
ensure that the handbrake is released.
2 Undo the two bolts securing the brake
caliper carrier bracket to the rear hub carrier
(see illustration).

9•8 Braking system 

10.2  Carrier bracket-to-rear hub carrier

retaining bolts (arrowed)

9.5  Rear brake caliper components

8.5  Handbrake cable clevis pin (A) and

cable retaining clip (B)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Piston
2 Dust cover
3 Piston seal
4 Bleed screw
5 Guide pin rubber boot
6 Guide pin

3 Undo the retaining bolt and release the
flexible brake hose support clip from the
suspension strut (see illustration).
4 Withdraw the carrier bracket, complete with
caliper and brake pads, from the disc and hub
carrier. Tie the caliper assembly from a
convenient place under the wheelarch to
avoid straining the brake hose (see
illustration).
5 The inspection procedures are the same as
for the front brake disc, and reference should
be made to Section 6, paragraphs 4 to 7
inclusive.

Removal

6 Remove the brake caliper and carrier
bracket as described in paragraphs 1 to 4.
7 Undo the two retaining screws and
withdraw the disc from the hub flange (see
illustrations). If it is tight, tap it lightly from
behind using a hide or plastic mallet.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure
that the mating face of the disc and hub
flange are thoroughly clean, and tighten all
retaining bolts to the specified torque.

11 Master cylinder - 

removal and refitting

3

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

Removal

1 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from the
fluid level warning indicator in the reservoir
filler cap, then remove the filler cap from the
reservoir. Note that the filler cap must not be
inverted. The reservoir should now be
emptied by syphoning or drawing out the fluid
with a pipette.
2 Place rags beneath the master cylinder to
absorb any remaining brake fluid when the
pipe unions are undone. If any brake fluid is
spilled on the car paintwork, wash it off
immediately with copious amounts of cold
water.

3 On manual transmission models, detach
the clutch fluid supply hose from the side of
the reservoir.
4 Unscrew the two brake pipe union nuts,
and carefully withdraw the pipes from the
master cylinder (see illustration). Tape over
the pipe ends to prevent dirt ingress.
5 Undo the two nuts, remove the washers,
and withdraw the master cylinder from the
servo unit. Recover the O-ring seal between
master cylinder and servo.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Renew the
master cylinder-to-servo O-ring seal, and
tighten all retaining nuts to the specified
torque. Bleed the brakes as described in
Section 2. On manual transmission models,
bleed the clutch hydraulic system as
described in Chapter 6.

12 Master cylinder (non-ABS

models) - overhaul

4

Note: Two different types of master cylinder
have been fitted to non-ABS equipped Rover
models covered by this manual (see
illustrations). The following procedures are
mainly applicable to the early unit fitted until
approximately October 1991. The later unit is
similar, but at the time of writing no specific

overhaul information was available from the
manufacturer.
1 Remove the master cylinder from the car as
described in the previous Section. Drain any
fluid remaining in the reservoir, and prepare a
clean, uncluttered working surface ready for
dismantling.
2 Hold the cylinder body firmly, and push the
reservoir sideways to release it from its seals.
Lift the reservoir off, and remove the two seals
from the fluid inlet ports.
3 Push the primary piston down the cylinder
bore slightly, and hold it there. Locate the
stop-pin in the secondary inlet port, and
withdraw the pin using pointed-nose pliers.
4 With the piston held down, extract the
circlip, using circlip pliers, from the cylinder
bore end, and remove the washer behind the
circlip.
5 Using a small blunt screwdriver, hook out
the O-ring seal from the groove in the cylinder
bore.
6 Remove the primary piston.
7 Lubricate the cylinder bore with clean
hydraulic fluid to aid removal of the secondary
piston.
8 Tap the cylinder body on a block of wood
to release the secondary piston, then
withdraw the piston from the cylinder bore.
9 Remove the secondary piston spring, seal
retainer, rear seal, washer and front seal.
10 Remove the seal housing, seal and
washer from the primary piston. Do not
dismantle the primary piston further, as seals

Braking system  9•9

10.7a  Undo the two retaining screws . . .

10.4  Tie up the caliper assembly to avoid

straining the brake hose

10.3  Release the rear flexible brake hose

support clip from the suspension strut

11.4  Unscrew the two brake pipe unions

(arrowed) at the master cylinder

10.7b  . . . and withdraw the rear disc from

the hub flange

9

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake