Rover 820, 825, 827. Repair Manual - part 11

9•10 Braking system 

12.0a  Exploded view of the early type master cylinder - 

non-ABS models

1 Reservoir
2 Stop-pin
3 Reservoir seals
4 Cylinder body
5 Piston retaining circlip
6 Washer
7 O-ring seal
8 Primary piston seal housing
9 Primary piston seal

10 Primary piston washer
11 Primary piston assembly
12 Secondary piston front seal
13 Secondary piston
14 Secondary piston washer
15 Secondary piston rear seal
16 Secondary piston seal retainer
17 Secondary piston spring
18 O-ring

12.0b  Exploded view of the later type master cylinder - 

non-ABS models

1 Reservoir filler cap
2 Reservoir
3 Reservoir secondary

circuit seal

4 Reservoir primary circuit

seal

5 Cylinder body
6 Secondary piston spring
7 Secondary piston seal

retainer

8 Secondary piston rear

seal

9 Secondary piston

10 Secondary piston front

seal

11 Primary piston assembly
12 O-ring seal
13 Vacuum seal packing ring
14 Vacuum seal
15 Transfer housing

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Reservoir
2 Stop-pin
3 Reservoir seals
4 Cylinder body
5 Piston retaining circlip
6 Washer
7 O-ring seal
8 Primary piston seal housing

9 Primary piston seal

10 Primary piston washer
11 Primary piston 

assembly

12 Secondary piston assembly
13 Secondary piston spring
14 O-ring

13.0a  Exploded view of the early type master

cylinder - ABS models

are not available separately. If the master
cylinder is in a serviceable condition, and is to
be re-used, a new primary piston assembly is
included in the repair kit.
11 With the master cylinder dismantled,
clean all the components in methylated spirit,
or clean hydraulic fluid, and dry with a lint-free
cloth.
12 Carefully examine the cylinder bore and
secondary piston for signs of wear, scoring or
corrosion, and if evident, renew the complete
master cylinder assembly.
13 If the components are in a satisfactory
condition, obtain a repair kit consisting of new
seals, springs and primary piston assembly.
14 Lubricate the cylinder bore, pistons and
seals thoroughly in clean hydraulic fluid, and
assemble them wet.
15 Using your fingers only, fit the front seal to
the secondary piston, followed by the washer,
rear seal, seal retainer and spring.
16 Fit the washer, seal housing and seal to
the primary piston.
17 Insert the secondary piston into the
cylinder bore, using a circular rocking motion
to avoid turning over the lips of the seals.
18 Fit the primary piston in the same way.
19 Fit a new O-ring seal to the groove in the
cylinder bore, then refit the washer and circlip.
20 Push the primary piston down the bore,
and refit the stop-pin to the secondary inlet
port.
21 Fit two new seals to the reservoir fluid
inlet ports, then push the reservoir firmly into
place.
22 Fit a new seal to the reservoir filler cap,
then refit the master cylinder to the car as
described in Section 11.

13 Master cylinder (ABS

models) - overhaul

4

Note: Two different types of master cylinder
have been fitted to ABS equipped Rover
models covered by this manual (see
illustrations). The following procedures are
mainly applicable to the early unit fitted until
approximately October 1991. The later unit is
similar, but at the time of writing no specific
overhaul information was available from the
manufacturer.
1 Remove the master cylinder from the car as
described in Section 11. Drain any fluid
remaining in the reservoir, and prepare a
clean, uncluttered working surface ready for
dismantling.
2 Hold the cylinder body firmly, and push the
reservoir sideways to release it from its seals.
Lift the reservoir off, and remove the two seals
from the fluid inlet ports.
3 Push the primary piston down the cylinder
bore slightly, and hold it there. Locate the
stop-pin in the secondary inlet port, and
withdraw the pin using pointed-nose pliers.
4 With the piston held down, extract the
circlip, using circlip pliers, from the cylinder
bore end, and remove the washer behind the
circlip.
5 Using a small blunt screwdriver, hook out
the O-ring seal from the groove in the cylinder
bore.
6 Remove the primary piston.
7 Lubricate the cylinder bore with clean
hydraulic fluid to aid removal of the secondary
piston.

Braking system  9•11

9

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

13.0b  Exploded view of the later type master cylinder - 

ABS models

1 Reservoir filler cap
2 Reservoir
3 Stop-pin
4 Reservoir secondary

circuit seal

5 Reservoir primary

circuit seal

6 Cylinder body
7 Stop-pin retaining

screw

8 Secondary piston

spring

9 Secondary piston

assembly

10 Primary piston spring
11 Primary piston

assembly

12 O-ring seal
13 Spacing washer
14 Circlip
15 Vacuum seal packing

ring

16 Vacuum seal
17 Transfer housing

8 Tap the cylinder body on a block of wood
to release the secondary piston, then
withdraw the piston from the cylinder bore.
9 Remove the seal housing, seal and washer
from the primary piston. Do not dismantle
either of the pistons further as seals are not
available separately. If the master cylinder is
in a serviceable condition, and is to be re-
used, a repair kit including new primary and
secondary piston assemblies will be required.
10 With the master cylinder dismantled,
clean all the components in methylated spirit,
or clean hydraulic fluid, and dry with a lint-free
cloth.
11 Carefully examine the cylinder bore for
signs of wear, scoring or corrosion, and if
evident, renew the complete master cylinder
assembly.
12 If the components are in a satisfactory
condition, obtain a repair kit and two new
piston assemblies.
13 Lubricate the cylinder bore, pistons and
seals thoroughly in clean hydraulic fluid, and
assemble them wet.
14 Fit the washer, seal housing and seal to
the primary piston.
15 Insert the secondary piston into the
cylinder bore, using a circular rocking motion
to avoid turning over the lips of the seals.
Align the slot in the piston with the 
stop-pin hole in the cylinder secondary inlet
port.
16 Fit the primary piston in the same way.
17 Fit a new O-ring seal to the groove in the
cylinder bore, then refit the washer and 
circlip.
18 Push the primary piston down the bore,
and refit the stop-pin to the secondary inlet
port.
19 Fit two new seals to the reservoir fluid
inlet ports, then push the reservoir firmly into
place.
20 Fit a new seal to the reservoir filler cap,
then refit the master cylinder to the car as
described in Section 11.

14 Pressure-reducing valve -

general information, removal
and refitting

3

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

General information

1 The pressure-reducing valve is mounted on
the left-hand side of the engine compartment
behind the battery.
2 The purposes of the valve is to distribute
brake fluid to the front and rear brakes (rear
brakes only on cars fitted with ABS), and to
limit the fluid pressure supplied to the rear
brakes under heavy braking.
3 The operation of the valve may be suspect
if one or both rear wheels continually lock
under heavy braking. It is essential, however,

before condemning the valve to ensure that
the brake assemblies themselves, or adverse
road conditions, are not causing this
condition. In the event of a valve internal
failure, brake fluid will be seen seeping from
the vent plug on the front of the valve which is
covered by a plastic strap. Repair or overhaul
of the valve is not possible, and the unit must
be renewed as a complete assembly if faulty.

Removal

4 Remove the master cylinder reservoir filler
cap, place a piece of polythene over the filler
neck, and seal it tightly with an elastic band.
This will minimise hydraulic fluid loss during
subsequent operations.
5 Place rags beneath the valve to collect any
hydraulic fluid that may escape when the pipe
unions are undone. If any hydraulic fluid is
spilled on the car paintwork, wash it off
immediately with copious amounts of cold
water.
6 Identify the locations of each of the brake
pipe unions, unscrew the union nuts and
carefully withdraw the pipes clear of the valve
(see illustration). Tape over the pipe ends
and valve orifices to prevent dirt ingress.
7 Undo the two bolts securing the valve
mounting bracket to the inner wing, and
remove the valve assembly.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Bleed the
hydraulic system as described in Section 2 on
completion.

15 Hydraulic pipes and hoses -

inspection, removal and
refitting

3

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

Inspection

1 Jack up the front, then the rear of the car in
turn, and securely support it on axle stands so
that the pipes and hoses under the
wheelarches and on the suspension
assemblies can be inspected.
2 First check for signs of leakage at the pipe
unions. Examine the flexible hoses for signs of
cracking, chafing or deterioration of the
rubber.
3 The brake pipes must be examined
carefully and methodically. They must be
cleaned off and checked for signs of dents,
corrosion or other damage. Corrosion should
be scraped off and, if the depth of pitting is
significant, the pipes renewed. The pipes are
however protected by a plastic sleeve, and
any corrosion that does occur is likely to be
near the pipe unions where the sleeve
protection ends.
4 Renew any defective brake pipes and/or
hoses.

Removal

5 If any section of pipe or hose is to be
removed, first unscrew the master cylinder
reservoir filler cap and place a piece of
polythene over the filler neck. Secure the
polythene with an elastic band, ensuring that
an airtight seal is obtained. This will minimise
hydraulic fluid loss when the pipe or hose is
removed.
6 As the front-to-rear brake pipes run inside
the car, it will be necessary to determine the
route of the pipe, then remove any interior trim
panels as necessary for access (see Chapter
11). Once this is done, the union nuts at each
end can be unscrewed, the pipe and union
pulled out, and the pipe removed from the car
or underbody clips as applicable. Where the
union nuts are exposed, unprotected from the
full force of the weather, they can sometimes

be quite tight. As only an open-ended spanner
can be used, burring of the flats on the nuts is
not uncommon when attempting to undo
them. For this reason, a self-locking wrench is
often the only way to separate a stubborn
union.
7 To remove a flexible hose, wipe the unions
and brackets free of dirt and undo the union
nut at the brake pipe end.
8 Next extract the hose retaining clip, and lift
the end of the hose out of its bracket (see
illustration).
9 If a front hose is being removed, undo the
two bolts securing the hose support bracket
to the steering knuckle (see illustration). At
the rear, a single bolt secures the support
bracket to the shock absorber strut.
10 Undo the banjo bolt securing the hose to
the brake caliper, recover the two copper
washers, one on each side of the union, and
remove the hose (see illustration). Use new
copper washers when refitting.
11 Brake pipes can be obtained individually,
or in sets, from Rover dealers or larger
accessory shops, cut to length and with the
end flares and union nuts in place. The pipe is
then bent to shape, using the old pipe as a
guide, and is ready for fitting to the car.

Refitting

12 Refitting the pipes and hoses is a reversal
of removal. Make sure that the hoses are not
kinked when in position, and will not chafe
any suspension or steering component with
suspension movement. Ensure also that the
brake pipes are securely supported in their
clips. After refitting, remove the polythene
from the reservoir and bleed the hydraulic
system as described in Section 2.

16 Brake pedal - 

removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 From inside the car, release the turnbuckles
and lift out the trim panel over the clutch,
brake and accelerator pedals.

9•12 Braking system 

15.10  Front brake hose-to-caliper banjo

union bolt (arrowed)

15.9  Front brake hose support bracket on

the steering knuckle

15.8  Flexible brake hose rigid pipe union

nut (A) and hose retaining clip (B)

14.6  Pressure-reducing valve mountings

and pipe attachments

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

2 Disconnect the return spring from the brake
pedal and pedal bracket (see illustration).
3 Extract the retaining spring clip and
withdraw the clevis pin securing the brake
servo pushrod to the pedal.
4 Undo the nut, remove the washer and
withdraw the brake pedal pivot bolt from the
pedal bracket. Remove the pedal from the
car.
5 Prise out the two pedal bushes and
withdraw the spacer tube.
6 Check the condition of the components,
and renew as necessary.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

17 Handbrake - adjustment

2

1 Due to the self-adjusting action of the rear
brakes, adjustment of the handbrake should
normally only be necessary after removal and
refitting of any of the handbrake components.

2 To check the adjustment, chock the front
wheels, remove the rear wheel trim and
slacken the roadwheel nuts. Jack up the rear
of the car and support it on axle stands.
Remove both rear roadwheels and release the
handbrake.
3 On early models, undo the three bolts each
side securing the handbrake linkage covers to
the rear brake calipers, and remove the
covers.
4 Check the clearance between the
handbrake linkage lever and the stop-pin on
both calipers (see illustration). If the
clearance on either side is outside the
tolerance given in the Specifications, adjust
the handbrake using the following procedure.
If the clearance is satisfactory, proceed to
paragraph 9.
5 On later models it will be necessary to
remove the centre console, as described in
Chapter 11, for access to the handbrake
adjuster. On early models it is only necessary
to remove the handbrake lever trim cover as
follows. From inside the car, carefully prise
out the coin holders or switch panels on each
side of the centre console, then raise the lid
on the cassette holder at the rear of the
console.
6 Using a screwdriver as a lever, carefully
prise up the rear of the handbrake lever trim
cover, and remove the cover from the lever
(see illustrations).
7 Turn the handbrake adjuster on the side of
the handbrake lever to increase or decrease
the previously-measured clearance, as

Braking system  9•13

17.6a  Prise up the rear of the handbrake

lever trim cover . . .

17.6b  . . . and remove the cover from the

lever

17.4  Handbrake adjustment details

9

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Handbrake linkage cover retaining

bolts

2 Handbrake linkage cover
3 Handbrake linkage lever-to-stop-pin

clearance measuring point

4 Using a lever to prise up the

handbrake lever trim cover 
(where applicable)

5 Handbrake lever trim cover
6 Handbrake adjuster
7 Handbrake lever

16.2  Brake pedal mounting details

1 Return spring
2 Clevis pin spring clip
3 Clevis pin

4 Pedal pivot bolt
5 Brake pedal
6 Spacer tube

7 Pedal bushes
8 Pedal pad
9 Stop-light switch

necessary  (see illustration). Turning the
adjuster clockwise will decrease the
clearance, and turning it anti-clockwise will
increase it.
8 Operate the handbrake two or three times,
and recheck the clearance once more. Make a
final adjustment if required, then refit the trim
cover to the lever, or refit the centre console,
as applicable.
9 Refit the linkage covers to the brake
calipers, refit the roadwheels and lower the
car to the ground. Tighten the wheel nuts and
refit the wheel trim.

18 Handbrake lever - 

removal and refitting

2

Removal

1 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the centre
console.
2 Chock the front wheels, remove the rear
wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack
up the rear of the car and support it on axle
stands. Remove the rear roadwheels and
release the handbrake.
3 From inside the car, unscrew the
handbrake adjuster on the side of the lever,
and remove the adjuster and spacing washer
from the front cable (see illustration).
4 Detach the front cable from the handbrake
lever.

5 Disconnect the wiring plug from the
warning light switch on the other side of the
lever (see illustration).
6 Undo the four bolts securing the lever
assembly to the floor (see illustration).
7 Lift up the lever assembly, release the cable
and gaiter, and recover the lever-to-floor
gasket. Remove the lever assembly from the
car.
8 If required, the warning light switch can be
removed after undoing the two screws.

Refitting

9 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjust the
handbrake as described in Section 17 before
lowering the car to the ground.

19 Handbrake cable (front) -

removal and refitting

2

Removal

1 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the centre
console.
2 Chock the front wheels, remove the rear
wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack
up the rear of the car and support it on axle
stands. Remove the rear roadwheels and
release the handbrake.
3 Undo the bolts securing the exhaust
system front heat shield to the underbody.
Release the exhaust system front rubber

mountings, and remove the heat shield by
twisting it around the exhaust system (see
illustration).
4 Extract the spring clip and withdraw the
clevis pin securing the front handbrake cable
to the compensator (see illustration).
5 Undo the two bolts securing the front cable
guide plate to the underbody (see
illustration).
6 From inside the car, undo the four bolts
securing the handbrake lever assembly to the
floor.
7 Disconnect the wiring plug from the
warning light switch on the side of the
handbrake lever, then remove the lever
assembly, complete with front cable, from the
car. Recover the lever-to-floor gasket.
8 Unscrew the handbrake adjuster on the

9•14 Braking system 

19.5  Undo the front cable guide plate

retaining bolts (arrowed)

18.6  Undo the four handbrake lever

retaining bolts (arrowed)

19.4  Extract the cable retaining spring clip

and clevis pin (arrowed)

19.3  Removing the front heat shield from

the exhaust system

18.5  Disconnect the warning light switch

wiring plug (arrowed)

18.3  Unscrew the handbrake adjuster on

the side of the lever

17.7  Handbrake adjuster location

(arrowed)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

side of the lever, and remove the adjuster and
spacing washer from the front cable.
9 Release the front cable and gaiter from the
handbrake lever assembly, then remove the
cable from the gaiter.

Refitting

10 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjust
the handbrake as described in Section 17
before lowering the car to the ground.

20 Handbrake cable (rear) -

removal and refitting

2

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels, remove the rear
wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack
up the rear of the car and support it on axle
stands. Remove the rear roadwheels and
release the handbrake.
2 Release the exhaust system rubber
mountings, lower the system at the rear, and
support it on blocks to avoid straining the
front flexible joint.
3 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the
front and rear exhaust system heat shields
(see illustration).
4 On early models, undo the three bolts and
remove the handbrake linkage cover from the
brake caliper.
5 Extract the spring clip and withdraw the

clevis pin securing the handbrake cable to the
linkage lever on the caliper (see illus-
tration 8.5).
6 Withdraw the spring clip securing the cable
to the abutment bracket, and remove the
cable from the caliper.
7 Undo the bolts and release the cable
support clips on the suspension arm, chassis
member and underbody (see illustrations).
8 Disconnect the return spring, extract the
spring clip and withdraw the clevis pin
securing the front handbrake cable to the
compensator (see illustration).
9 Turn the rear cable end through 90º, and
release it from the slot in the compensator.
10 Withdraw the cable from the abutment
bracket, and remove it from under the car.
Remove the support clips from the cable.

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjust
the handbrake as described in Section 17
before lowering the car to the ground.

21 Stop-light switch - removal,

refitting and adjustment

1

Removal

1 From inside the car, release the turnbuckles
and lift out the trim panel over the clutch,
brake and accelerator pedals.

2 Disconnect the switch wiring multiplug,
then slacken the locknut and unscrew the
switch from the brake pedal bracket (see
illustration).

Refitting and adjustment

3 Refit the switch to the brake pedal bracket
then adjust its position as follows.
4 Temporarily reconnect the wiring multiplug
so that the switch terminals connected to the
green/purple, and purple or purple/pink wires
can be noted.
5 Remove the multiplug once more and
connect an ohmmeter across the switch
green/purple terminal, and purple or
purple/pink terminal.
6 Turn the switch anti-clockwise until the
ohmmeter reads zero. Now turn the switch
clockwise until the ohmmeter reads infinity.
On cars equipped with cruise control, turn
the switch clockwise one further turn. On
cars without cruise control, turn the switch
clockwise a further half a turn. Hold the
switch in this position and tighten the
locknut.
7 Disconnect the ohmmeter and reconnect
the switch wiring multiplug. Ensure that the
multiplug is correctly connected otherwise the
stop lights will illuminate whenever the ignition
is switched on.
8 Refit the trim panel over the pedals.

Braking system  9•15

20.7b  . . . and rear underbody

20.7a  Cable support on the chassis

member . . .

20.3  Removing the rear heat shield from

the exhaust system

21.2  Stop-light switch wiring multiplug (A)

and locknut (B)

20.8  Handbrake cable return spring (A)

and retaining clevis pin (B)

20.7c  Front cable support retaining bolts

(arrowed)

9

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

22 Vacuum servo unit - general

information and testing

1

General information

1 A vacuum servo unit is located between the
brake pedal and master cylinder, to provide
assistance to the driver when the brake pedal
is depressed. This reduces the effort required
by the driver to operate the brakes under all
braking conditions.
2 The unit operates by vacuum obtained from
the inlet manifold, and consists basically of a
diaphragm, control valve and non-return
valve.
3 With the brake pedal released, vacuum is
channelled to both sides of the diaphragm,
but when the pedal is depressed, one side is
opened to atmosphere. The resultant unequal
pressures are harnessed to assist in
depressing the master cylinder pistons.
4 Normally, the servo unit is very reliable, but
if the unit becomes faulty it must be renewed
complete, as repair is not possible. In the
event of failure, the hydraulic system is in no
way affected, except that higher pedal
pressures will be necessary.

Testing

5 To test the servo unit, depress the brake
pedal several times with the engine switched
off, to destroy the vacuum.
6 Apply moderate pressure to the brake
pedal, then start the engine. The pedal should
move down slightly as the vacuum is restored,
if the servo is operating correctly.
7 Now switch off the engine and wait five
minutes. Vacuum should still be available for
at least one assisted operation of the pedal.

23 Vacuum servo unit - removal

and refitting

3

Removal

1 Remove the master cylinder as described in
Section 11.
2 From inside the car, release the turnbuckles
and lift out the trim panel over the clutch,
brake and accelerator pedals.
3 Extract the retaining clip and withdraw the
clevis pin securing the servo pushrod to the
brake pedal.
4 From within the engine compartment,
remove the vacuum hose elbow from the front

face of the servo by prising it out of its
grommet.
5 Unscrew the four retaining nuts inside the
car, and withdraw the servo unit from the
engine compartment bulkhead.
6 With the servo removed, the air filter can be
renewed if necessary. Withdraw the dust
cover over the air filter and pushrod. Hook out
the washer and old filter, and cut the filter to
allow removal over the pushrod fork. Similarly
cut the new filter, place it in position in the
housing, and refit the washer and dust cover.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use a new
gasket on the servo-to-bulkhead mating face,
and tighten the retaining nuts to the specified
torque. Refit the master cylinder as described
in Section 11.

24 Anti-lock braking system -

general information

Later Rover 800 series models are available

with an anti-lock braking system (ABS) as
standard equipment or an optional extra. The
system is used in conjunction with the normal
braking system to provide greater stability,
improved steering control and shorter
stopping distances under all braking
conditions. Two different ABS systems have
been used, the later type introduced for the
1992 model year, operates in basically the
same way as the early system but
incorporates modifications to the hydraulic
modulator and electronic control unit. A brief
description of the operation of both systems
is as follows (see illustration). Each wheel is
provided with a wheel speed sensor, which
monitors the wheel rotational speed. The
sensor consists of a magnetic core and coil,
and is mounted at a predetermined distance
from a toothed reluctor ring. The reluctor rings
for the front wheels are pressed onto the
driveshaft outer constant velocity joints, and
those for the rear wheels are pressed onto the
rear hubs. When each hub turns, the magnetic
field of the sensor is altered as the reluctor
ring teeth pass the sensor head, thus inducing
an alternating voltage, the frequency of which
varies according to wheel speed.

Signals from the wheel speed sensors are

sent to an electronic control unit, which can
accurately determine whether a wheel is
accelerating or decelerating in relation to a
reference speed. Information from the
electronic control unit is sent to the hydraulic
modulator which, on the early system,
contains four solenoids each operating one
inlet and one exhaust valve for each brake. On
the later system, the modulator contains one
solenoid for each front brake, plus one
solenoid and a copy valve for the rear brakes.
On both systems the solenoids all work
independently of each other in three distinct
phases:

9•16 Braking system 

24.1  Anti-lock braking system main components (pre-1992 model year version shown,

later version similar)

1 Vacuum servo unit
2 Master cylinder
3 Hydraulic modulator
4 Modulator control relay -

solenoid valve operation

5 Modulator control relay -

return pump operation

6 Electronic control unit
7 Over-voltage protection

relay

8 Front wheel speed sensor

reluctor ring

9 Front wheel speed sensor

10 ABS warning light

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Pressure build-up phase: The solenoid inlet

valves are open, and hydraulic pressure from
the master cylinder is applied directly to the
brake calipers.

Constant pressure phase: The solenoid inlet

and exhaust valves are closed, and hydraulic
pressure at the calipers is maintained at a
constant level, even though master cylinder
pressure may increase.

Pressure reduction phase: The solenoid

inlet valve is closed to prevent further
hydraulic pressure reaching the caliper and, in
addition, the exhaust valve is open, to reduce
existing pressure and release the brake. Fluid
is returned to the master cylinder in this phase
via the return pump in the hydraulic
modulator.

The braking cycle for one wheel is therefore

as follows, and will be the same for all four
wheels, although independently.

Wheel rotational speed is measured by the

wheel speed sensors, the information is
processed by the electronic control unit. By
comparing the signals received from each
wheel, the control unit can determine a
reference speed, and detect any variation
from this speed, which would indicate a
locking brake. Should a lock-up condition be
detected, the control unit initiates the
constant pressure phase, and no further
increase in hydraulic pressure is applied to the
affected brake. If the lock-up condition is still
detected, the pressure reduction phase is
initiated to allow the wheel to turn. The control
unit returns to the constant pressure phase
until the wheel rotational speed exceeds a
predetermined value, then the cycle repeats
with the control unit re-initiating the pressure
build-up phase. This control cycle is
continuously and rapidly repeated, until the
brake pedal is released or the car comes to a
stop.

Additional circuitry within the electronic

control unit monitors the functioning of the
system, and informs the driver of any fault
condition by means of a warning light. Should
a fault occur, the system switches off allowing
normal braking, without ABS, to continue.

25 Anti-lock braking system -

component removal and
refitting

3

ABS main relays

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2 Undo the screw and lift off the plastic cover
over the hydraulic modulator.
3 Remove the relays by pulling them out of
their location. The relay nearest the hydraulic
pipe connection end of the modulator controls
the solenoid valve operation, and the relay
furthest away from the hydraulic pipe
connections controls the return pump
operation.
4 Refitting is the reversal of removal.

Over-voltage protection relay

5 An over-voltage protection relay is only
used on the early systems.
6 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
7 Working in the luggage compartment,
release the turnbuckle and lift off the cover
over the electronic control unit.
8 Withdraw the relay from its socket which is
located below the ECU on Saloon models,
and to the side of the ECU, behind the trim
panel on Fastback models.
9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Electronic control unit

Early system

10 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
11 Working in the luggage compartment on
the left-hand side, release the turnbuckle and
lift off the control unit cover.
12 Disconnect the wiring multiplug by
depressing the spring tab at the cable end, lift
the plug up at the cable end, then disengage
the tab at the other end.
13 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the
unit from its location.
14 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the wiring multiplug engages
securely with an audible click from the spring
tab.

Later system

15 On the system fitted to later models, the
ECU is attached to the hydraulic modulator.
16 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
17 Undo the screw and lift off the plastic
cover over the hydraulic modulator.
18 Release the metal clip securing the main
wiring harness to the ECU then disconnect
the three wiring multiplugs.

19 Undo the six Torx screws and withdraw
the ECU from the top of the hydraulic
modulator.
20 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Hydraulic modulator

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

Early system

21 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
22 Undo the screw and lift off the plastic
cover over the hydraulic modulator. Unscrew
the cable clamp and disconnect the
modulator wiring multiplug. Undo the earth
terminal nut and disconnect the earth lead
from the modulator (see illustration).
23 Remove the master cylinder reservoir filler
cap, and place a piece of polythene over the
filler neck. Seal the polythene with an elastic
band, ensuring that an airtight seal is
obtained. This will minimise brake fluid loss
during subsequent operations. Place rags
beneath the modulator as an added
precaution against fluid spillage.
24 If no identification labels are present on
the modulator brake pipe unions, identify
each pipe and its location as an aid to
refitting. The modulator ports should be
stamped on the modulator body with a two-
letter code as follows:
VR Right-hand front
VL Left-hand front
HR Right-hand rear
HL Left-hand rear
25 Unscrew each brake pipe union at the
modulator, withdraw the pipe, and
immediately plug the pipe end and orifice.
Release the pipe support bracket from the
side of the modulator, and carefully ease the
pipes clear.

Braking system  9•17

25.22  ABS hydraulic modulator attachments (early version shown)

1 Cover retaining screw
2 Modulator relay cover
3 Cable clamp screws

4 Cable clamp
5 Multiplug
6 Brake pipe unions

7 Mounting nuts
8 Modulator
9 Mounting rubbers

9

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

26 Slacken the modulator mounting nuts and
remove the unit from its location. Do not
attempt to dismantle the modulator, as it is a
sealed unit, and no repairs are possible.
27 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Bleed
the hydraulic system as described in Sec-
tion 2 on completion.

Later system

28 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
29 Remove the electronic control unit from
the modulator as described previously.
30 Undo the earth terminal nut and
disconnect the earth lead from the modulator.
31 Remove the master cylinder reservoir filler
cap, and place a piece of polythene over the
filler neck. Seal the polythene with an elastic
band, ensuring that an airtight seal is
obtained. This will minimise brake fluid loss
during subsequent operations. Place rags
beneath the modulator as an added
precaution against fluid spillage.
32 If no identification labels are present on
the modulator brake pipe unions, identify
each pipe and its location as an aid to
refitting. The modulator ports should be
stamped on the modulator body with a two-
letter code as follows:
RF Right-hand front
LF Left-hand front
RR Right-hand rear
LR Left-hand rear

33 Unscrew each brake pipe union at the
modulator, withdraw the pipe, and
immediately plug the pipe end and orifice.
34 Slacken the three modulator mounting
nuts and remove the unit from its location. Do
not attempt to dismantle the modulator, as it
is a sealed unit, and no repairs are possible.
35 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Bleed
the hydraulic system as described in Sec-
tion 2 on completion.

Front wheel speed sensor

36 Apply the handbrake, remove the front
wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack
up the front of the car and support it on axle
stands. Remove the front roadwheel.
37 Undo the bolts securing the cable harness
support brackets to the steering knuckle and
inner wheelarch panel (see illustration).
38 From within the engine compartment,
release the wiring connector from its holder,
and separate the connector. Release the
wheelarch grommet and pull the wiring
through to the wheelarch.
39 Undo the bolt securing the sensor to the
sensor bracket on the steering knuckle, and
carefully prise the sensor out of the bracket.
40 Release the sensor wiring from the
support bracket, and remove the unit from the
car.
41 Undo the two bolts and remove the
sensor bracket from the steering knuckle.
42 Prior to refitting, clean the sensor, sensor

bracket and the mounting area on the steering
knuckle, removing all traces of dirt and grit.
43 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Lubricate the sensor and sensor bracket with
Rocol J166 or Molykote FB180, and ensure
that the bracket bosses face the hub when
fitting. Tighten all bolts to the specified
torque, and check the sensor-to-reluctor ring
clearance, which should be as given in the
Specifications.

Rear wheel speed sensor

44 Chock the front wheels, remove the rear
wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack
up the rear of the car and support it on axle
stands. Remove the rear roadwheel.
45 Working in the luggage compartment on
the left-hand side, release the turnbuckle and
lift off the cover over the electronic control
unit (early systems only) (see illustration).
46 Remove the left-hand side inner trim
panel.
47 Disconnect the wheel speed sensor wiring
at the cable connector.
48 Undo the two screws and remove the
plastic liner on the front face of the rear
wheelarch.
49 Release the grommets in the luggage
compartment floor and inner wheelarch, then
pull the wiring through to the wheelarch.
50 Undo the two bolts and remove the cable
cover and guide from the chassis member.
51 Release the cable ties and retaining clips

9•18 Braking system 

25.37  Front wheel speed sensor attachments

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Cable harness support bracket

bolt on steering knuckle

2 Cable harness support bracket

and bolt on inner wheelarch
panel

3 Wiring connector
4 Wheelarch grommet
5 Sensor-to-sensor bracket

retaining bolt

6 Sensor
7 Harness support bracket
8 Sensor bracket-to-steering

knuckle retaining bolt

9 Sensor bracket

Braking system  9•19

9

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Electronic control unit cover
2 Left-hand side trim panel
3 Cable connector
4 Rear wheelarch plastic liner
5 Luggage compartment floor grommet
6 Sensor wiring

7 Inner wheelarch grommet
8 Cover bolts
9 Cable cover and guide
10 Cable retaining clip
11 Cable tie
12 Support bracket bolt

13 Cable harness support bracket on

suspension arm

14 Handbrake linkage cover bolts
15 Handbrake linkage cover
16 Sensor-to-bracket retaining bolt
17 Wheel speed sensor

securing the sensor wiring to the chassis
member.
52 Undo the three bolts securing the cable
harness support bracket to the rear
suspension arm.
53 Undo the three bolts and remove the
handbrake linkage cover from the brake
caliper.
54 Undo the bolt securing the sensor to the
sensor bracket on the hub carrier, and
carefully prise the sensor out of the bracket.
55 Manipulate the sensor and wiring out from
under the wheelarch, and remove it from car.
56 Prior to refitting, clean the sensor, sensor

bracket and the mounting area on the hub
carrier, removing all traces of dirt and grit.
57 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Lubricate the sensor and sensor bracket with
Rocol J166 or Molykote FB180, and tighten all
bolts to the specified torque. Check the
sensor-to-reluctor ring clearance, which
should be as given in the Specifications.

Wheel speed sensor reluctor
rings

58 The reluctor rings for the front and rear
wheel speed sensors are an integral part of
the driveshaft outer constant velocity joints

(front) and rear wheel hub flanges (rear), and
cannot be renewed separately.
59 If a reluctor ring is damaged, or in any way
unserviceable, a new driveshaft outer
constant velocity joint or rear hub flange must
be obtained as applicable. Removal and
refitting procedures are covered in Chapters 8
and 10 respectively.

ABS copy valve

60 Removal and refitting procedures for the
copy valve fitted to the later type ABS system
are the same as those for the pressure-
reducing valve used on the standard braking
system. Refer to Section 14 for details.

25.45  ABS rear wheel speed sensor attachments

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

10

Front suspension

Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Independent, by unequal length upper and lower suspension arms,
with coil springs, telescopic shock absorbers and anti-roll bar

Hub bearing endfloat  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.05 mm

Rear suspension

Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Independent, by transverse and training links, with coil springs,
telescopic shock absorbers and anti-roll bar. Self-levelling suspension
optional on certain models

Hub bearing endfloat  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.10 mm

Steering

Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Power-assisted rack and pinion

Turns lock-to-lock:

4-cylinder engine models without turbo  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3.12

4-cylinder turbo engine models  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.97

V6 engine models  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3.36

Front and rear wheel alignment

Front wheel toe setting:

Pre-1992 model year  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Parallel ± 0º 8’

1992 model year onward  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Parallel ± 0º 15’

Rear wheel toe setting:

Pre-1992 model year  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0º 10’ ± 0º 4’ toe-in

1992 model year onward  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0º 22’ ± 0º 15’ toe-in

Roadwheels

Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Pressed steel or light alloy

Wheel size:

4-cylinder engine models  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6J x 14, 6J x 15, 6J x 16 or 7J x 17 (3.5J x 15 space saver spare
wheel)

V6 engine models  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6J x 15 or 6J x 16 (3.5J x 15 space saver spare wheel)

Chapter 10
Suspension and steering systems

Ancillary drivebelts check and renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Front anti-roll bar - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

Front hub bearing - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

Front lower suspension arm - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

Front shock absorber and coil spring assembly - dismantling 

and reassembly  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

Front shock absorber and coil spring assembly - removal and 

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

Front steering knuckle assembly - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . .

2

Front tie-bar - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Front upper suspension arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

Power steering gear - bleeding  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Power steering fluid cooler - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Power steering fluid level check  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Power steering pump - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Rear anti-roll bar - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Rear coil spring - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Rear hub bearing - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Rear hub carrier - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Rear shock absorber - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Rotary coupler - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Steering column - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Steering column lock - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Steering gear - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Steering gear rubber gaiter - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Steering knuckle balljoint - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

Steering, suspension and roadwheel check  . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Steering track rod - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Steering wheel - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Trailing link - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Transverse link - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Tyre condition and tyre pressure checks  . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Wheel alignment and steering angles - general information  . . . . . . . 28

10•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1

Tyres

Tyre size:

4-cylinder engine models  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

195/70 VR 14, 195/65 VR 15, 205/55 VR 16 or 215/45 ZR 17 
(115/70 R 15 space saver)

V6 engine models  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

195/65 VR 15, 205/60 VR 15 or 205/55 VR 16 (115/70 R 15 space
saver)

Tyre pressures  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

See Chapter 1 Specifications

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Front suspension

Anti-roll bar connecting link bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50

37

Anti-roll bar mounting bracket bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

22

16

Driveshaft retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

415

306

Upper suspension arm balljoint nut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50

37

Strut forked member to lower arm  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

90

66

Strut forked member clamp bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

60

44

Shock absorber top mounting nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Shock absorber spindle nut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50

37

Upper suspension arm mounting nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80

59

Upper suspension arm pivot bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

90

66

Lower suspension arm inner mounting bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50

37

Tie-bar front mounting nut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

90

66

Tie-bar to lower suspension arm bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

170

125

Longitudinal support member bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Rear suspension

Anti-roll bar connecting link nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Anti-roll bar mounting bracket bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

22

16

Hub carrier to trailing link bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70

52

Hub carrier to transverse link bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70

52

Shock absorber to hub carrier clamp bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70

52

Shock absorber upper mounting nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Shock absorber spindle nut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

52

38

Hub flange retaining nut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

245

181

Transverse link inner mounting bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50

37

Trailing link front mounting nut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Trailing link adjustment plate retaining bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70

52

Trailing link adjustment plate eccentric bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70

52

Steering

Steering wheel nut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50

37

Air bag module to steering wheel bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

6

Steering column upper mounting nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

14

10

Steering column lower mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

22

16

Column universal joint clamp bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

22

16

Steering track rod balljoint nut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

44

32

Steering track rod locknut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Steering rack hydraulic unions  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20

15

Steering gear mounting bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Steering gear lower cover plate bolts (V6 engine)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Steering knuckle balljoint nut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

100

74

Power steering pump retaining bolts:

4-cylinder engine - rear-mounted pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

4-cylinder engine - front-mounted pump:

Early version (4 mounting bolts)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Later version (5 mounting bolts)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

V6 engine:

Mounting bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

39

29

Adjusting nut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

22

16

Power steering pump pulley nut/bolt:

4-cylinder engine - rear-mounted pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

82

61

4-cylinder engine - front-mounted pump  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

V6 engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

33

24

Power steering pump drivebelt tensioner wheel retaining 

nut  (4-cylinder engine - rear mounted pump)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Power steering pump high pressure pipe connector 

bolts (V6 engine)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

11

8

Roadwheels

Roadwheel nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

110

81

10•2 Suspension and steering systems

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1

General information

The independent front suspension is by

unequal length upper and lower suspension
arms, and utilizes coil springs and telescopic
shock absorbers (see illustration). Each spring
and shock absorber assembly is attached to the
body turret at its upper end by a rubber-
cushioned mounting, and to the lower
suspension arm by a forged, forked-shaped
member. Fore and aft location of each
suspension assembly is by a tie-bar, and an anti-
roll bar is used to minimise body roll. The front
steering knuckles, which carry the hub bearings,
brake calipers and the hub/disc assemblies,
pivot on balljoints - one incorporated in the upper
suspension arm, and one secured to the lower
part of the steering knuckle itself.

The independent rear suspension is by

transverse and trailing links with coil springs,
telescopic shock absorbers, and an anti-roll
bar (see illustration). The shock absorbers are
attached to the body at their upper ends by
rubber-cushioned mountings, and clamped to
the hub carriers at their lower ends. Lateral
location of each suspension assembly is
provided by the transverse link, which also
provides the lower location of the coil spring.
Fore and aft location of each suspension
assembly is controlled by the trailing link,
which is attached to the hub carrier by means
of a bracket incorporating an eccentric
mounting bolt for rear wheel toe adjustment.

Self-levelling rear suspension, which reacts

to vehicle loading and automatically maintains
the normal trim heights, is available on certain
models. The self-levelling units are sealed
dampers fitted in place of the normal rear
shock absorbers. A pump in the damper
operates under the action of the suspension
to raise the rear of the car until normal trim
height is regained. On an undulating road, this
process will be carried out within one mile.
When the additional load is removed, the
suspension remains at the correct level.

Power-assisted rack and pinion steering

gear is standard equipment on all models.
Movement of the steering wheel is transmitted
to the steering gear by a steering column
shaft containing two universal joints (see
illustration). These allow for provision of a
rake-adjustable column assembly, and also
allow the necessary upward deflection of the
column, for driver safety, in the event of front
end impact. The front wheels are connected
to the steering gear by track rods, each
having an inner and outer balljoint. On early 
4-cylinder engine models, hydraulic fluid
pressure for the power assistance is provided
by a pump, mounted on the left-hand end of
the engine and belt-driven from a pulley on
the inlet camshaft. On later 4-cylinder, and all
V6 engine models, the pump is mounted at
the timing belt end of the engine and is belt-
driven from the crankshaft pulley.

Suspension and steering systems  10•3

1.2  Rear suspension assembly

1 Coil spring

3 Trailing link

2 Shock absorber

4 Anti-roll bar

1.1  Front suspension assembly

1 Upper suspension arm

4 Tie-bar

2 Lower suspension arm

5 Coil spring

3 Shock absorber

6 Anti-roll bar

1.4  Exploded view of the steering column components

10

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Column upper shroud
2 Wiring harness
3 Steering wheel pad
4 Steering wheel
5 Steering wheel nut
6 Multifunction switches
7 Shear bolts
8 Lock saddle
9 Column shaft
10 Universal joint
11 Clamp bolt
12 Column 

lock/ignition 
switch

13 Column lower 

shroud

14 Wiring 

harness

2

Front steering knuckle
assembly - 
removal and refitting

3

Note: A new driveshaft retaining nut will be
required for refitting.

Removal

1 While the car is standing on its wheels.
firmly apply the handbrake and put the
transmission in gear (PARK on automatic
models).
2 Remove the wheel trim, and using a small
punch, knock up the staking that secures the
driveshaft retaining nut to the groove in the
constant velocity joint stub shaft (see

illustration). Note that a new retaining nut will
be needed for reassembly.
3 Using a socket, sturdy T-bar and long
extension tube for leverage, slacken the
retaining nut half a turn. Note that the
retaining nut is tightened to a very high torque
setting, and considerable effort will be
required to slacken it.
4 Slacken the wheel nuts, jack up the front of
the car and support it on stands. Remove the
roadwheel and put the transmission in neutral.
5 Remove the driveshaft retaining nut.
6 Undo the two bolts securing the brake
caliper carrier bracket to the steering knuckle,
and the two bolts securing the brake hose
bracket to the knuckle (see illustration).
7 Withdraw the caliper and carrier bracket
assembly, complete with brake pads, off the
disc, and tie it up using string or wire from a
convenient place under the wheelarch. Take
care to avoid straining the brake hose.
8 Undo the two retaining screws and remove
the disc from the hub flange (see illustration).
9 On cars with ABS brakes, remove the front
wheel speed sensor and wiring harness from
the steering knuckle, as described in Chap-
ter 9.
10 Extract the split pin and unscrew the nut
securing the steering track rod balljoint to the
steering knuckle arm (see illustration).
Release the balljoint from the arm using a
universal balljoint separator tool.
11 Undo the nut securing the steering
knuckle balljoint to the lower suspension arm.

Release the balljoint from the arm using a
separator tool or two-legged puller (see
illustration).
12 Undo the nut securing the upper
suspension arm balljoint to the steering
knuckle, and release the balljoint using the
same procedure as for the lower balljoint (see
illustration).
13 Disengage the balljoint shanks, then
withdraw the steering knuckle from the
driveshaft (see illustration). If necessary, tap
the end of the driveshaft with a copper or
plastic mallet to release it from the hub
splines. Remove the steering knuckle
assembly from the car.

Refitting

14 Refitting the steering knuckle is a reversal
of removal, bearing in mind the following
points:
(a) Tighten all retaining nuts and bolts to the

specified torque and use a new split pin
to secure the steering track rod balljoint
nut.

(b) Use a new driveshaft retaining nut but do

not attempt to tighten this nut fully until
the weight of the car is on the roadwheels
(see illustration). Peen the nut into the
driveshaft groove using a small punch
after tightening. If a torque wrench
capable of recording the high figure
required for tightening is not available, it is
recommended that the old nut is fitted,
tightened as securely as possible, then

10•4 Suspension and steering systems

2.13  Withdrawing the steering knuckle

from the driveshaft

2.12  Undo the upper suspension arm

balljoint nut (arrowed)

2.11  Using a two-legged puller to release

the steering knuckle balljoint

2.10  Extract the track rod balljoint nut split

pin (arrowed)

2.8  Brake disc retaining screws (arrowed)

2.6  Brake caliper carrier bracket securing

bolts (arrowed)

2.2  Knock up the staking (arrowed)

securing the driveshaft retaining nut

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

peened into place. Take the car directly to
a suitably-equipped garage, and have
them fit and tighten the new nut for you.

(c) On cars equipped with ABS brakes, refit

the wheel speed sensor as described in
Chapter 9.

3

Front hub bearing - 
renewal

3

1 Remove the steering knuckle from the car
as described in the previous Section.
2 Support the steering knuckle on blocks with
the hub flange facing downwards. Using a
hammer and socket, or tube, in contact with
the inner edge of the hub flange, drive the
flange out of the hub bearing (see
illustration). Alternatively, if a press is
available, support the steering knuckle on the
press bed and press the hub flange out (see
illustration).
3 As the hub flange is withdrawn, one of the
bearing inner races will come away with it,
and must now be removed. To do this,
engage the legs of a two-legged puller under
the inner race and draw it off. It may be easier
to do this if a horseshoe-shaped strip of metal
is placed under the inner race, to give the
puller legs greater purchase (see illustration).
4 With the hub flange removed, undo the four
screws and remove the disc shield.
5 Using circlip pliers, extract the bearing
retaining circlip from the steering knuckle.

6 Support the steering knuckle face-down on
blocks, or on the press bed as before, and
with the tube or mandrel in contact with the
edge of the outer bearing, drive or press the
bearing out (see illustration).
7 Fit the new bearing in the same way,
ensuring that it is pressed fully home to the
shoulder in the steering knuckle (see
illustration). Keep the bearing square as it is
fitted, otherwise it will jam and continued
pressure could cause the outer race to crack.
If the bearing does jam, tap or press it out,
remove any burrs in the bore of the steering
knuckle and try again.
8 Secure the bearing with the circlip, then
refit the disc shield.
9 Support the bearing inner race on a socket

or tube, and drive or press the hub flange into
place (see illustration).
10 The steering knuckle can now be refitted
to the car as described in the previous
Section.

4

Steering knuckle balljoint -
removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Remove the steering knuckle from the car
as described in Section 2.
2 Extract the balljoint retaining circlip and
remove the dust cover (see illustration).

Suspension and steering systems  10•5

3.2b  . . . or preferably support the steering

knuckle on a press bed and press the hub

flange out using a mandrel

3.2a  Remove the hub flange using a

socket or tube in contact with its outer

edge (arrowed) . . .

2.14  Tighten the new driveshaft retaining

nut fully only when the weight of the car is

on the roadwheels

4.2  Balljoint retaining circlip (arrowed)

3.9  Fitting the hub flange to the new

bearing

3.6  Removing the hub bearing from the

steering knuckle

3.3  Using a puller and horseshoe-shaped

strip of metal to draw off the bearing inner

race from the hub flange

10

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

3.7  Fitting the new hub bearing to the

steering knuckle

3 Support the steering knuckle in a wide-
opening vice or on a press bed, and using
tubes as mandrels and distance pieces, press
the balljoint out of the knuckle. The
manufacturer’s special tools being used for
this purpose are shown, to give an idea of the
arrangement, but lengths of tubular steel work
equally well (see illustration).

Refitting

4 Using the same basic procedure as for
removal, fit the new balljoint until its shoulder
contacts the steering knuckle flange.
5 Fit the new dust cover and secure the
assembly with the circlip.
6 Refit the steering knuckle to the car as
described in Section 2.

5

Front shock absorber and
coil spring assembly -
removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Apply the handbrake, prise off the front
wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack
up the front of the car and support it on axle
stands. Remove the front roadwheel.
2 Place a jack beneath the lower suspension
arm and raise the arm slightly.
3 Undo the nut and remove the through-bolt
securing the forked member to the lower
suspension arm.
4 Undo the nut and remove the clamp bolt
securing the forked member to the shock
absorber.
5 Slowly lower the jack, and remove the
forked member from the shock absorber and
lower suspension arm (see illustration). It
may be necessary to tap the member down
using a copper or plastic mallet to release it
from the shock absorber.
6 Have an assistant hold the assembly, from
below, then undo the three nuts securing the
shock absorber top mounting to the body
turret in the engine compartment (see
illustration).
7 Remove the shock absorber and spring
assembly from under the wheelarch.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten all
nuts and bolts to the specified torque, but do

not fully tighten the forked member-to-lower
arm bolt and nut until the weight of the car is
on the roadwheels.

6

Front shock absorber and
coil spring assembly -
dismantling and reassembly

4

Warning: Before attempting to
dismantle the shock absorber
and coil spring assembly, a tool
to hold the spring in

compression must be obtained. Adjustable
coil spring compressors are readily
available, and are recommended for this
operation. Any attempt at dismantling
without such a tool is likely to result in
damage or personal injury.

Dismantling

1 Remove the shock absorber and coil spring
assembly as described in the previous
Section.
2 Position the spring compressors on either
side of the spring, and compress the spring
evenly until there is no tension on the spring
seat or upper mounting (see illustration).
3 Hold the unthreaded end of the shock
absorber spindle with a self-locking wrench or
similar tool, and unscrew the upper mounting
retaining nut (see illustration).
4 Withdraw the washer under the nut,
followed by the upper bush, the upper
mounting plate and the spring seat.
5 To remove the threaded collar on the shock
absorber spindle, it will be necessary to make
up a tool which will engage in the slots on the
collar, enabling it to be unscrewed. A tool can

10•6 Suspension and steering systems

6.3  Remove the retaining nut (arrowed)

from the shock absorber spindle

5.6  Shock absorber top mounting

retaining nuts (arrowed)

5.5  Removing the front suspension forked

member

4.3  Rover special tool for steering knuckle

balljoint removal

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

6.2  Coil spring and shock absorber

assembly, showing spring compressor tool

in position

6.5  Shock absorber threaded collar home-

made removal tool