Rover 820, 825, 827. Repair Manual - part 9

modify these basic values to “fine-tune” the
injector opening times to suit precise
operating conditions. Information on
crankshaft speed and position, coolant
temperature, intake air temperature, ambient
air temperature, manifold pressure,
atmospheric pressure and vehicle speed is
supplied to the ECU by the sensors, to enable
initial injection time to be established.
Additional sensors are used, according to
model and equipment levels, to supply
information on exhaust emissions, air
conditioning system operation, automatic
transmission shift position, etc.

Engine idle speed is also controlled by the

ECU in conjunction with an electronic idle
control valve. This valve changes the amount
of air bypassing into the inlet manifold in
response to sensor information processed by
the ECU. This results in a stabilized idle speed
irrespective of additional loads imposed on
the engine from such sources as the
alternator, power steering pump, automatic
transmission, air conditioning compressor, or
other external factors such as temperature
and altitude. Additionally, a temperature
conscious fast idle control bypass valve is
used to increase the amount of air bypassing
into the inlet manifold during warm-up
conditions.

Should certain elements of the system fail,

the ECU can implement a back-up facility,
allowing the system to operate at reduced
performance until the fault can be rectified.

A self-diagnosis function is also provided

whereby any faults detected by the ECU are
stored in its memory and displayed as codes
by a flashing red LED whenever the ignition is
switched on. A second LED is also provided
to indicate whether the initial (manually set)
idle speed adjustment is correct. Both these
LED’s are located on the front of the ECU and
can be seen by looking under the front of the
driver’s seat.

11 Fuel injection system -

testing and adjustment

4

Testing

1 If a fault appears in the fuel injection system
(indicated by the red LED on the ECU flashing
a series of codes), first ensure that all the
system wiring connectors are securely
connected and free of corrosion. Then ensure
that the fault is not due to poor maintenance;
ie, check that the air cleaner filter element is
clean, the spark plugs are in good condition
and correctly gapped, the cylinder
compression pressures are correct, and that
the engine breather hoses are clear and
undamaged, referring to the relevant Parts
and Sections of this Chapter, and to Chap-
ters 1 and 2 for further information.
2 If these checks fail to reveal the cause of

the problem, the vehicle should be taken to a
suitably equipped Rover dealer for the fault
codes to be interpreted and the fault isolated.
This will alleviate the need to test all the
system components individually, which is a
time-consuming operation that carries an
element of risk of damaging the ECU.

Adjustment

Engine tuning procedure

3 The fuel injection system is such that once
the initial engine idle speed and mixture
settings have been set, they are then
controlled by the system’s ECU for all
operating conditions. Although the settings
should be checked at the recommended
service intervals, it is unlikely that any
adjustment will be needed unless a new
component has been fitted. Note also that the
idle mixture setting can only be adjusted on
early models that are not equipped with a
catalytic converter.
4 Before making any changes to the settings
of the fuel injection system, ensure that the
spark plug gaps are correctly set, the air
cleaner element is clean, there are no leaks in
the exhaust system, and the ignition system is
operating correctly. Ensure that all breather
and vacuum hoses are connected, and that
none are perished or kinked.
5 Check that there is the correct amount of
free play in the accelerator cable, and that the
throttle lever rests against its stop in the
released condition. Adjust the cable as
described in Section 3 if necessary.
6 Temperature effects, and engine and
transmission oil drag, can influence the idle
speed and mixture settings, and it is important
that the following warm-up procedure is
adopted before attempting any adjustments.
7 Drive the car on the road for approximately
two to four miles, dependent on summer or
winter conditions, in a normal manner, without
excessive load, engine speed or road speed.
8 Return the car to the working area, ensure
that the steering is in the straight ahead
position then switch the engine off and
connect a tachometer to the engine in
accordance with the equipment

manufacturer’s instructions. If the mixture
setting is being checked, connect an exhaust
gas analyser (CO meter) in accordance with
the equipment manufacturer’s instructions
also. The analyser should be warmed up,
correctly calibrated and ready for immediate
use. Commence the adjustment procedure
described below immediately.

Idle speed adjustment

9 With the engine idling, check the yellow
LED display on the fuel system ECU, by
looking under the front of the driver’s seat.
The LED is visible through the window on the
ECU case (see illustration). If the LED is not
illuminated, the idle speed is correct 
and no adjustment is required. If the LED 
is illuminated or blinking, adjustment is
required.
10 Switch off all electrical accessories, and
ensure that they remain switched off
throughout the adjustment procedure.
11 If the LED is illuminated constantly (not
blinking), turn the adjustment screw on the
idle valve anti-clockwise to correct the
setting. If the LED is blinking, turn the
adjustment screw clockwise (see
illustration). Always turn the adjustment
screw in 90º increments, and wait thirty
seconds for the idle speed to stabilise.
Check the idling speed on the tachometer
and compare it with the figures given in the
Specifications. Repeat the adjustment until
the setting is correct.

Idle mixture adjustment

12 As mentioned earlier, the idle mixture can
only be adjusted on models without a catalytic
converter.
13 According to model, the idle mixture
adjuster will be located in one of three places:
2.5 litre models - In the control box on the

engine compartment bulkhead (see
illustration).

2.7 litre models - In the control box on the

engine compartment bulkhead, or on the
fuse and relay box in the facia on the
driver’s side, or in front of the fuel system
ECU under the driver’s seat (see
illustrations).

Fuel and exhaust systems - Honda PGM-Fi injection engines  4D•5

11.11  Idle speed adjustment screw

(arrowed) on the idle valve. (On 2.5 litre

engines the screw is on the side of the

valve)

11.9  The ECU viewing window where the

red and yellow LEDs can be seen (driver’s

seat removed for clarity)

4D

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

14 Locate the adjuster and hook out the
tamperproof cap over the adjusting screw, if
fitted.
15 Refer to the engine tuning procedure
information contained above before starting.
16 Switch off all electrical accessories, and
ensure that they remain switched off
throughout the adjustment procedure.
17 If, during the adjustment procedure, the
cooling fan operates, or if adjustment is not
completed within two minutes, accelerate the
engine to 2000 rpm, and hold this speed for
ten seconds. Repeat this every two minutes
until the adjustments are completed.
18 With the engine idling and the exhaust gas
analyser connected, take a reading of the
exhaust gas CO content. If this is not as given
in the Specifications, turn the screw clockwise
to enrich the mixture, or anti-clockwise to
weaken it as necessary.
19 On completion, disconnect the exhaust
gas analyser and check the idle speed setting
as described above.

12 Fuel injection system

components - 
removal and refitting

3

Note: Refer to the precautions contained in
Section 1 before proceeding.

Atmospheric pressure sensor

Removal

1 Open the fusebox cover under the facia on
the driver’s side.
2 Undo the retaining screw and withdraw the
sensor from the mounting bracket.
3 Disconnect the wiring multiplug and
remove the sensor.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Resonator

Removal

5 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the car and support it on axle stands.
6 Undo the two screws and one bolt securing

the access panel to the underside of the front
wheelarch on the left-hand side.
7 Undo the four remaining screws, disengage
the access panel from the front spoiler, and
remove it from under the car.
8 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from the
control solenoid.
9 Disconnect the vacuum hose at the T-piece
connector.
10 Undo the two bolts and withdraw the
resonator assembly from under the front
wheelarch.
11 Remove the spacers and rubber
mountings from the resonator.

12 With the unit removed, the control
solenoid and valve control diaphragm,
together with the pipes and hoses, can be
removed as required.

Refitting

13 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Throttle body

Removal

14 Partially drain the cooling system as
described in Chapter 1, to below the level of
the throttle body.
15 Open the throttle fully by hand, and slip
the accelerator inner cable end out of the slot
on the throttle lever (see illustration).

4D•6 Fuel and exhaust systems - Honda PGM-Fi injection engines

12.15  Throttle body components and attachment details

1 Outer accelerator cable
2 Inner accelerator

connection

3 Kick-down cable
4 Kickdown cable support

bracket screws

5 Throttle angle sensor

wiring multiplug

6 Breather pipe retaining bolt

7 Breather pipe upper

connection

8 Breather pipe lower

connection

9 Intake trunking clip
10 Intake trunking
11 Throttle diaphragm vacuum

hose

12 Support strap rear bolt
13 Support strap front bolt
14 Support strap
15 Lower air hose
16 Throttle body retaining nuts
17 Throttle body
18 Rubber insulator retaining

bolts

19 Rubber insulator

11.13c  Idle mixture adjuster screw (1)

under the driver’s seat on later 2.7 litre

non-catalyst engines

11.13b  Idle mixture adjuster location on

early 2.7 litre non-catalyst engines

1 Remove fusebox cover for access
2 Hook out tamperproof cap
3 Turn adjuster as required

11.13a  This is actually the ignition timing

sensor/adjuster (arrowed) in the control

box on 2.7 litre engines, but on 2.5 litre

models, this is where you will find the idle

mixture adjuster

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

16 Slacken the outer cable locknuts, then
withdraw the outer cable from the support
bracket.
17 On automatic transmission models,
release the kickdown cable inner cable end
from the throttle lever.
18 Undo the two screws securing the
kickdown cable support bracket to the throttle
body and move the bracket and cable to one
side.
19 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from the
throttle angle sensor (see illustration).
20 Release the coil HT cable from the clip on
top of the air intake trunking.
21 Undo the breather pipe support bracket
bolt and remove the breather pipe from the
side of the intake trunking.
22 Slacken the clip and release the trunking
from the throttle body.
23 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the
throttle diaphragm.
24 Undo the two bolts and remove the
support strap from the top of the throttle
body.
25 Release the clip and disconnect the lower
air hose from the underside of the throttle
body.
26 Undo the four nuts, move the air intake
trunking aside, and withdraw the throttle body
from the studs of the rubber insulator.
27 If required, the rubber insulator can be
removed from the inlet manifold after undoing
the four retaining bolts.

Refitting

28 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjust the
accelerator cable as described in Section 3,
and refill the cooling system (Chapter 1).

Electronic idle control valve

Removal

29 Partially drain the cooling system as
described in Chapter 1, to below the level of
the idle control valve.
30 Undo the bolts securing the vacuum pipe
and crankcase ventilation pipe support
brackets 

(see illustration).

31 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from the
idle control valve (see illustration).

32 Release the clips and disconnect the two
coolant hoses from the idle control valve.
33 Undo the two bolts and remove the idle
control valve from the inlet manifold. Recover
the sealing O-ring from the base of the valve.

Refitting

34 Refitting is a reversal of removal but use a
new O-ring seal. Refill the cooling system
(Chapter 1), and adjust the idle speed (Sec-
tion 11).

Dashpot diaphragm assembly

Removal

35 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the top
of the diaphragm (see illustration).
36 Undo the two screws securing the
diaphragm bracket to the throttle body.
37 Disconnect the operating rod from the
throttle lever and remove the diaphragm
assembly.

Refitting

38 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Fast idle valve

Removal

39 Partially drain the cooling system as
described in Chapter 1, to below the level of
the fast idle valve.
40 Release the clips and disconnect the two
coolant hoses from the fast idle valve (see
illustration).
41 Undo the three bolts and remove the

valve from the inlet manifold. Recover the two
O-ring seals.

Refitting

42 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
renew the O-ring seals and refill the cooling
system, as described in Chapter, 1 on
completion.

Front fuel rail and injectors

Removal

43 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
44 Relieve the fuel system pressure as
described in Section 5.
45 Disconnect the spark plug HT leads from
the three rear spark plugs, and identify the
leads for correct reconnection.
46 Release the HT leads from the support
clips and from the top of the inlet manifold
cover and move the leads clear (see
illustration).
47 Undo the bolt securing the fuel pipe clip at
the corner of the inlet manifold cover.
48 Release the clips and disconnect the
breather hose from the inlet manifold cover
and camshaft cover.
49 Open the throttle fully by hand, and slip
the accelerator inner cable end out of the slot
on the throttle lever.
50 Slacken the outer cable locknuts;
withdraw the outer cable from the support
bracket. Release the cable from the clips and
move it clear.

Fuel and exhaust systems - Honda PGM-Fi injection engines  4D•7

12.31  Disconnect the wiring multiplug

from the idle control valve

12.30  Undo the bolts securing the vacuum

pipe and crankcase ventilation pipe

support brackets

12.19  Throttle angle sensor wiring

multiplug location

12.40  Fast idle valve coolant hose (A) and

mounting bolts (B)

12.35  Dashpot diaphragm vacuum 

hose (A) and retaining screws (B)

4D

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

51 Disconnect the cruise control vacuum
hose at the T-piece connector, release the
hose from the support clips and move it clear.
52 Undo the two banjo union bolts securing
the fuel pipes to the front fuel rail. Release the
pipes and collect the copper washers. Cover
the open unions after disconnection then
move the pipes away.
53 Undo the bolts securing the two harness
brackets at the front of the fuel rail and move
the brackets aside.
54 Disconnect the wiring multiplugs from the
three fuel injectors (see illustration).
55 Undo the two fuel rail retaining nuts and
lift the fuel rail off the injectors.
56 Withdraw the injectors from their locations
and collect the O-ring and cushion ring at the
top, and the insulator and sealing ring at the
bottom from each injector.
57 Collect the two spacers from the inlet
manifold.

Refitting

58 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
renew the O-rings, cushion rings, insulators
and sealing rings on each injector, and use
new washers on the fuel pipe banjo unions.

Tighten the banjo union bolts to the specified
torque.
59 Reconnect and adjust the accelerator
cable as described in Section 3.

Rear fuel rail and injectors

Removal

60 Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 43 to 47 above.

61 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the top
of the fuel pressure regulator.
62 Release the clip and disconnect the fuel
return hose from the fuel pressure regulator.
Plug the hose and regulator union.
63 Undo the banjo union bolt securing the
fuel pipe to the rear fuel rail. Release the pipe
and collect the copper washers. Cover the
open union after disconnection then move the
pipe away.
64 Undo the bolts securing the two harness
brackets at the rear of the fuel rail and move
the brackets aside.
65 Disconnect the wiring multiplugs from the
three fuel injectors.
66 Undo the two fuel rail retaining nuts and
lift the fuel rail off the injectors.
67 Withdraw the injectors from their locations
and collect the O-ring and cushion ring at the
top, and the insulator and sealing ring at the
bottom from each injector.
68 Collect the two spacers from the inlet
manifold.
69 If required the fuel pressure regulator can
be removed from the fuel rail after removing
the two retaining bolts. Collect the O-ring seal
between regulator and fuel rail.

Refitting

70 Refitting is a reversal of removal; renew
the O-rings, cushion rings, insulators and
sealing rings on each injector, and use new
washers on the fuel pipe banjo unions.
Tighten the banjo union bolts to the specified
torque. Renew the regulator O-ring if the
regulator was removed.

Fuel pressure regulator

Removal

71 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
72 Relieve the fuel system pressure as
described in Section 5.
73 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the top
of the fuel pressure regulator (see
illustration).
74 Release the clip and disconnect the fuel
return hose from the fuel pressure regulator.
Plug the hose and pressure regulator union.
75 Undo the two bolts and remove 
the regulator. Collect the O-ring seal between
regulator and fuel rail.

4D•8 Fuel and exhaust systems - Honda PGM-Fi injection engines

12.73  Fuel pressure regulator vacuum

hose (A) and retaining bolts (B)

12.54  Disconnect the injector wiring

multiplugs

12.46  Fuel rails and injector components and attachments

1 Fuel filter banjo bolt bleed

screw

2 HT lead support clips
3 Fuel pipe clip retaining bolt
4 Breather hose
5 Accelerator cable
6 Fuel pipe banjo union bolts
7 Fuel pipes
8 Banjo union sealing washer

locations

9 Fuel pressure regulator

vacuum hose

10 Fuel return hose
11 Fuel pipe banjo union bolt
12 Fuel pipe
13 Banjo union sealing washer

locations

14 Harness bracket retaining

bolts

15 Fuel injector multiplugs
16 Fuel rail retaining nuts

17 Fuel rail
18 Fuel injector
19 O-ring
20 Cushion ring
21 Insulator
22 Sealing ring
23 Manifold spacers
24 Fuel pressure regulator

retaining bolts

25 Fuel pressure regulator
26 O-ring

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Refitting

76 Refitting is a reversal of removal but use a
new sealing O-ring.

Electronic control unit

Removal

77 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
78 Remove the driver’s seat as described in
Chapter 11.
79 Undo the four bolts securing the ECU to
the floor. Lift off the ECU cover and collect the
spacers between the ECU flange and the
floor.
80 Disconnect the ECU wiring multiplugs
(see illustration).
81 Where fitted, undo the two bolts and
remove the cooling fan timer module from 
the ECU base (see illustration). Remove the
ECU.

Refitting

82 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Inertia switch

Removal

83 On early models the switch is located
behind the centre console inside the car.
84 Remove the stud from the centre console
side cover on the left-hand side, and remove
the cover.
85 Undo the two screws securing the inertia
switch to the mounting plate, disconnect the
wiring multiplug and remove the switch.
86 Check the operation of the switch by
striking the forward-facing side hard against
the palm of your hand. The setting button
should trip out when this is done. If not, renew
the switch.
87 On later models, disconnect the wiring
multiplug, undo the two screws and remove
the switch from the engine compartment
bulkhead (see illustration).

Refitting

88 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Press
the button down to reset the switch after
installation.

Main control box

89 In addition to the sensors, valves and

solenoids described previously in this Section,
a number of additional units are located in the
main control box mounted on the engine
compartment bulkhead. These devices are
used by the ECU for control of the fuel,
ignition and emissions control systems. Many
of the sensors utilise manifold vacuum for
their operation and are connected by means
of a series of numbered vacuum hoses and
pipes to various locations on, and around, the
engine. Three wiring multiplugs connect the
sensors electrically to the main harness.
90 The layout, and number of sensors fitted,
varies considerably according to engine,
model year, emission equipment level, and
vehicle accessories or options. Each of the
sensors can be renewed separately, but
testing, either individually, or as part of their
respective system, must be entrusted to a
dealer with dedicated test equipment.

Removal

91 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
92 Slacken the two bolts securing the control
box to the bulkhead.
93 Undo the three screws and lift off the
control box upper cover (see illustration).
94 Note the connections, then release the
wiring multiplugs from the mounting brackets
on the front of the control box and disconnect
them.
95 Remove the control box lower cover from
the valve plate assembly.
96 Check that each of the vacuum hoses and

its corresponding pipe on the pipe block is
numbered. If not, label each hose and pipe.
97 Some of the sensors are accessible at this
stage and if they are to be renewed
individually, disconnect the vacuum hose,
undo the screws and remove the relevant unit.
If the complete control box is being removed,
proceed as follows.
98 Pull the vacuum hoses off the pipe stubs
(see illustration).
99 Undo the bolts securing the valve plate
mounting brackets and remove the assembly
from the bulkhead.
100 Any sensors not previously accessible
can now be removed from the valve plate.

Refitting

101 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the labelled vacuum hoses are
connected to the correct pipe stub.

13 Cruise control system -

general information

A cruise control system is available as

standard or optional equipment on certain 
V6 engine models. The system uses electro-
mechanical devices to accurately maintain the
vehicle road speed without the use of the
accelerator pedal.

The system is controlled by an electronic

control unit (ECU) which responds to inputs
from the master and set/resume switches, the

Fuel and exhaust systems - Honda PGM-Fi injection engines  4D•9

12.87  Inertia switch location on the engine

compartment bulkhead

12.81  Where fitted, undo the two bolts and

remove the cooling fan timer module

12.80  Disconnect the ECU wiring

multiplugs

12.98  Pull the vacuum hoses off the pipe

stubs

12.93  Undo the three screws and lift off

the control box upper cover

4D

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

vehicle speed sensor, the clutch and brake
pedal switches and the shift control switch on
the transmission. When the system is
engaged, the ECU sends signals to the cruise
control actuator which regulates the
accelerator pedal position by means of a
stepper motor and connecting cable. Once
the driver has initiated the system, the road
speed will be constantly monitored and
maintained by the cruise control actuator.

The system can be disengaged at any time

either by use of the control switches or by
depressing the brake (and where applicable
the clutch) pedals, or moving the automatic
transmission gear selector to neutral. The
ECU memory stores the previously set road
speed which can be re-engaged by use of the
resume switch.

14 Cruise control system

components - 
removal and refitting

3

Cruise control actuator

Removal

1 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from the
actuator stepper motor (see illustration).
2 Disconnect the vacuum and vent hoses
from the actuator.
3 Slacken the locknuts on the operating cable
at the support bracket on the actuator.
4 Release the rubber boot and disconnect the
inner cable from the actuator rod.
5 Undo the two mounting bolts securing the
actuator bracket to the body; remove the
actuator and bracket from the engine
compartment.
6 If necessary, the mounting brackets and
solenoid valves can now be removed from the
actuator.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but adjust
the operating cable as described in the
following sub-Section on completion.

Operating cable

Removal

8 Slacken the outer cable locknuts at the
support bracket on the cruise control
actuator.
9 Release the rubber boot and disconnect the
inner cable from the actuator rod.
10 From inside the car, release the
turnbuckles and lift out the trim panel over the
clutch, brake and accelerator pedals.
11 Disconnect the inner cable from the
accelerator pedal.
12 Release the cable from the engine

compartment bulkhead, and the support clips,
and withdraw the cable from the car.

Refitting and adjustment

13 Refit the cable using a reversal of removal
then adjust it as follows.
14 First check that the accelerator cable is
correctly adjusted as described in Section 3.
15 Start the engine and allow it to idle.
16 Release the rubber boot at the actuator
rod.
17 Push the actuator rod in, and measure the
movement until the engine speed just begins
to rise.
18 Adjust the position of the outer cable, by
means of the locknuts, so that there is 9.5 to
12.5 mm of actuator rod movement before the
engine speed increases off idle.
19 Tighten the locknuts and refit the rubber
boot on completion.

Cruise control switches

Main facia switch

20 The procedure for removal and refitting of
the main switch is described in Chapter 12,
Section 4.

Set/resume switch

21 Refer to Chapter 10, Section 18 and
remove the steering wheel pad or the airbag
module as applicable.
22 Disconnect the switch wiring multiplug
and the two Lucar connectors at the steering
wheel.
23 On early models, release the switch unit
from the steering wheel pad. On later models,
undo the two switch retaining screws and the
single mounting bracket-to-steering wheel
retaining bolt.
24 Remove the mounting bracket and
withdraw the switch from the steering wheel.
25 Refit the switch using a reversal of
removal then refit the steering wheel pad or
airbag module as described in Chapter 10.

Clutch and brake switches

26 To remove the clutch switch, release the
turnbuckles and lift out the trim panel over the
clutch, brake and accelerator pedals.
27 Disconnect the switch wiring multiplug.
28 Slacken the locknut and unscrew the
switch from the pedal bracket.
29 Refit the switch by screwing it in until the
plunger is fully depressed, then tighten the
locknut.
30 Reconnect the multiplug and refit trim
panels.
31 The brake switch is combined with the
stop-light switch and reference should be
made to Chapter 9, Section 21.

Electronic control unit

Removal

32 Release the turnbuckles and lift out the
trim panel over the clutch, brake and
accelerator pedals.
33 Disconnect the ECU multiplug, undo the
retaining bolt and withdraw the ECU from its
location on the door pillar bracket.

Refitting

34 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

15 Exhaust system - general

information and component
renewal

With the exception of the twin downpipes,

the exhaust system is the same as used on 
4-cylinder engines. Refer to Part A, Section 13
for exhaust system details, and to Part E,
Section 3, for information on the catalytic
converter.

4D•10 Fuel and exhaust systems - Honda PGM-Fi injection engines

14.1  Cruise control actuator attachment

details

1 Stepper motor wiring multiplug
2 Vent hose
3 Vacuum hose
4 Outer operating cable locknuts
5 Rubber boot
6 Inner operating cable
7 Actuator bracket mounting bolts
8 Actuator
9 Actuator to bracket mounting nuts

10 Bracket components
11 Bushes and sleeves

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

4E

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Oxygen sensor:

4-cylinder engines with sensor in front pipe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20

15

4-cylinder engines with sensor in manifold  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

55

41

V6 engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Air suction valve pipe nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

22

16

Air suction valve pipe bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12

9

EGR valve nuts and bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

22

16

Chapter 4  Part E: Fuel and exhaust systems –
Emissions control systems

Catalytic converter - general information and precautions  . . . . . . . .

3

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

Emissions control systems - testing and component renewal  . . . . .

2

Engine compartment wiring check  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system check and filter 

cleaning  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . .See Chapter 1

4E•1

Specifications

Contents

1

General information

1 To minimise pollution of the atmosphere
from incompletely-burned and evaporating
gases, and to maintain good driveability and
fuel economy, a number of emissions control
systems are used on later vehicles covered by
this manual. They include the following:
(a) The engine management system

(comprising both fuel and ignition sub-
systems) itself.

(b) Crankcase emissions control.
(c) Evaporative emissions control system.
(d) Exhaust emissions control (air injection

system, exhaust gas recirculation system,
catalytic converter).

2 Before assuming an emission control
system is malfunctioning, check the fuel and
ignition systems carefully (see the earlier Parts
of this Chapter, and Chapter 5). The diagnosis
of most emission control devices requires
specialised tools, equipment and training. If
checking and servicing become too difficult,
or if a procedure is beyond the scope of your
skills, consult your Rover dealer or other
specialist. Note: The most frequent cause of
emissions problems is simply a loose or
broken electrical connector or vacuum hose,
so always check the electrical connectors and
vacuum hoses first.

3 Pay close attention to any special
precautions outlined in this Chapter. It should
be noted that the illustrations of the various
systems may not exactly match the system
installed on your vehicle, due to changes
made by the manufacturer during production
or from year-to-year.

Crankcase emissions control

4 To reduce the emissions of unburned
hydrocarbons from the crankcase into the
atmosphere, a Positive Crankcase Ventilation
(PCV) system is used whereby the engine is
sealed and the blow-by gasses and oil vapour
are drawn from inside the crankcase, through
an oil separator, into the inlet tract to be
burned by the engine during normal
combustion.
5 Under conditions of high manifold
depression (idling, deceleration) the gasses
will be sucked positively out of the crankcase.
Under conditions of low manifold depression
(acceleration, full-throttle running) the gasses
are forced out of the crankcase by the
(relatively) higher crankcase pressure; if the
engine is worn, the raised crankcase pressure
(due to increased blow-by) will cause some of
the flow to return under all manifold
conditions.

Evaporative emissions control

6 To minimise the escape into the
atmosphere of unburned hydrocarbons, an
evaporative emissions control system is fitted

to models equipped with a catalytic converter.
The fuel tank filler cap and vents are sealed
and a charcoal canister is mounted in the
engine compartment to collect the petrol
vapours generated in the tank when the car is
parked. It stores them until they can be
cleared from the canister via the purge valve
into the inlet tract, to be burned by the engine
during normal combustion.
7 To ensure that the engine runs correctly
when it is cold and/or idling, and to protect
the catalytic converter from the effects of an
over-rich mixture, the purge valve is not
allowed to open until the engine has warmed-
up, and is under load; the valve is then
opened to allow the stored vapour to pass
into the inlet tract.
8 On 4-cylinder engines the vacuum supply
to operate the purge valve is regulated by a
purge control valve solenoid which itself is
under the control of the ECU. The solenoid is
mounted either separately within the engine
compartment or, on later models, directly on
top of the charcoal canister.
9 On V6 engines the vacuum supply to the
purge valve is regulated by the constant
vacuum control valve (under ECU control) and
by a thermostatic valve which is opened or
closed depending on coolant temperature.

Exhaust emissions control

10 To minimise the amount of pollutants
which escape into the atmosphere, some
models are fitted with a catalytic converter in

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1

the exhaust system. On all models where a
catalytic converter is fitted, the system is of
the closed-loop type, in which an oxygen
sensor in the exhaust system provides the fuel
injection/ignition system ECU with constant
feedback on the oxygen content of the
exhaust gasses. This enables the ECU to
adjust the mixture by altering injector opening
time, to provide the best possible conditions
for the converter to operate.
11 The oxygen sensor has a built-in heating
element, controlled by the ECU to quickly
bring the sensor’s tip to an efficient operating
temperature. The sensor’s tip is sensitive to
oxygen, and sends the ECU a varying voltage
depending on the amount of oxygen in the
exhaust gasses; if the intake air/fuel mixture is
too rich, the exhaust gasses are low in
oxygen, so the sensor sends a voltage signal
proportional to the oxygen detected, the
voltage altering as the mixture weakens and
the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gasses
rises. Peak conversion efficiency of all major
pollutants occurs if the intake air/fuel mixture
is maintained at the chemically-correct ratio
for complete combustion of petrol - 14.7 parts
(by weight) of air to 1 part of fuel (the
“stoichiometric” ratio). The sensor output
voltage alters in a large step at this point, the
ECU using the signal change as a reference
point, and correcting the intake air/fuel
mixture accordingly, by altering the fuel
injector opening time.
12 To further improve emissions
performance, later V6 engines are fitted with
an air injection system and an exhaust gas
recirculation (EGR) system. The air injection
system operates by introducing fresh air from
the air cleaner into the exhaust manifold under
the control of the fuel/ignition ECU, and an air
suction valve. The EGR system recirculates a
proportion of the exhaust gasses through the
EGR valve and back into the combustion
chambers via the inlet manifold. Operation of

the system is controlled by the fuel/ignition
ECU which opens and closes the EGR valve
according to operating conditions.

2

Emissions control systems -
testing and component
renewal

5

Crankcase emissions control

1 The checking and testing procedures for
the PCV system are contained in Chapter 1.

Evaporative emissions control

Testing

2 If the system is thought to be faulty,
disconnect the hoses from the charcoal
canister and purge valve, and check that they
are clear by blowing through them. If the
purge control valve, purge control valve
solenoid or charcoal canister are thought to
be faulty, they must be renewed. Testing of
the control side of the system should be
entrusted to a dealer with the dedicated test
equipment necessary to interrogate the
system quickly and accurately.

Charcoal canister - renewal

3 If the purge control valve solenoid is
located on top of the canister, disconnect it’s
wiring multiplug.
4 Release the clips and disconnect the hoses
from the top of the canister. Note their
locations for correct refitting, and pull the
hoses straight off the pipe stubs, otherwise
the stubs may break off inside the hose (see
illustration).
5 Where fitted, release the securing strap and
lift the canister from its location. On early
models, disconnect the additional hose at the
base of the canister.

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the hoses are correctly fitted.

Purge control valve solenoid (early 
4-cylinder engines) - renewal

7 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from the
solenoid (see illustration).
8 Release the clip and disconnect the
vacuum hose from the solenoid. Pull the hose
straight off the pipe stub otherwise the stub
may break off inside the hose.
9 Extract the circlip from the purge hose at
the base of the solenoid and pull off the hose.
Recover the O-ring from the pipe stub,
ensuring that it doesn’t remain in the hose.
10 Slide the solenoid from its bracket and
remove it from the car.
11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a
new O-ring on the purge hose stub.

Purge control valve solenoid (later 
4-cylinder engines) - renewal

12 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from the
solenoid.
13 Release the clip and disconnect the
vacuum hose from the solenoid. Pull the hose
straight off the pipe stub otherwise the stub
may break off inside the hose.
14 Compress the retaining tags and
withdraw the solenoid from the charcoal
canister. Recover the O-ring from the base of
the solenoid.
15 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a
new sealing O-ring.

Thermostatic valve (V6 engines) -
renewal

16 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.
17 Refer to Part D, Section 12, and remove
the fast idle valve.
18 Disconnect the two vacuum hoses at the

4E•2 Fuel and exhaust systems - Emissions control systems

2.7  Purge control valve solenoid attachments on early 4-cylinder engines

1 Wiring multiplug
2 Vacuum hose

3 Purge hose circlip
4 Purge hose

5 O-ring

2.4  Charcoal canister attachments on 

V6 engines

1 Vacuum hose

3 Canister

2 Vapour hoses

4 Air inlet hose

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

thermostatic valve and release the upper hose
from its support clip (see illustration).
19 Unscrew the thermostatic valve from the
coolant passage and remove it from the
engine.
20 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
apply a thread sealant to the valve threads
prior to refitting.

Constant vacuum control valve 
(V6 engines) - renewal

21 The constant vacuum control valve is
located in the control box mounted on the
engine compartment bulkhead. Further
information on the control box and its
components can be found in Part D, Section 12.

Exhaust emissions control

Testing

22 Many of the exhaust emissions control
components are an integral part of the engine
management system, and testing can only be
accurately carried out using Rover test
equipment. On V6 engines, any system faults
will be stored in the ECU self-diagnosis
memory and displayed as a series of flashing
fault codes on the LED display. These can be
quickly interpreted by a dealer to isolate the
location of the fault and save time-consuming
individual component testing.
23 If a component is known to be faulty, or if
fault diagnosis has been carried out by a
dealer, it can then be renewed as follows.

Oxygen sensor (4-cylinder engines) -
renewal

Note: The oxygen sensor is delicate, and will
not work if it is dropped or knocked, if its
power supply is disrupted, or if any cleaning
materials are used on it.
24 On models with Lucas multi-point fuel
injection, the sensor is located on top of the
exhaust downpipe, under the car.
25 Disconnect the sensor wiring harness
multiplug at the connector in the engine
compartment. Release the harness from the
engine compartment cable ties and note the
harness routing.
26 Jack up the front of the car and securely
support it on axle stands.
27 Release the wiring harness from the
underbody cable ties.

28 Unscrew the sensor from the exhaust pipe
and collect the sealing washer.
29 Refitting is a reversal of removal using a
new sealing washer. Prior to installing the
sensor, apply a smear of high temperature
grease to the sensor threads. Ensure that the
sensor is securely tightened and make sure
that the wiring is routed correctly with no
danger of it contacting either the exhaust
system or engine.
30 On models with MEMS multi-point fuel
injection, the sensor is located in the exhaust
manifold.
31 Release the wiring harness from its
support bracket on the thermostat housing
and disconnect the harness multiplug.
32 Unscrew the sensor from the exhaust
manifold and collect the sealing washer.
33 Refitting is a reversal of removal using a
new sealing washer. Prior to installing the
sensor, apply a smear of high temperature
grease to the sensor threads and ensure that
the sensor is securely tightened.

Front oxygen sensor (V6 engines) -
renewal

34 Refer to the note at the beginning of
paragraph 24 before proceeding.
35 Refer to Chapter 3, and remove the
radiator.
36 Undo the three bolts securing the heat
shield to the exhaust manifold.
37 Disconnect the sensor lead at the wiring
connector and release the lead from the
support bracket clips (see illustration).

38 Remove the heat shield and unscrew the
sensor from the manifold.
39 Refitting is a reversal of removal using a
new sealing washer. Prior to installing the
sensor, apply a smear of high temperature
grease to the sensor threads and ensure that
the sensor is securely tightened. Refit the
radiator as described in Chapter 3.

Rear oxygen sensor (V6 engines) -
renewal

40 Refer to the note at the beginning of
paragraph 24 before proceeding.
41 Jack up the front of the car and securely
support it on axle stands.
42 From under the car, disconnect the
sensor lead at the wiring connector and
unscrew the sensor from the manifold (see
illustration).
43 Refitting is a reversal of removal using a
new sealing washer. Prior to installing the
sensor, apply a smear of high temperature
grease to the sensor threads and ensure that
the sensor is securely tightened.

Air suction valve (V6 engines) -
renewal

44 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
45 Release the clip and disconnect the brake
servo vacuum hose from the inlet manifold
(see illustration).
46 Undo the bolt securing the pipe bracket at
the rear of the air suction valve.
47 Disconnect the air suction valve vacuum
hose (see illustration).

Fuel and exhaust systems - Emissions control systems  4E•3

2.42  Rear oxygen sensor location in the

exhaust manifold

2.37  Release the oxygen sensor lead from

the support bracket clips (arrowed)

2.47  Disconnect the air suction valve

vacuum hose (arrowed)

2.45  Disconnect the brake servo vacuum

hose (arrowed) from the inlet manifold

4E

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

2.18  Disconnect the two vacuum hoses at

the thermostatic valve (arrowed)

48 Undo the two air suction pipe retaining
bolts
49 Undo the two bolts securing the fuel pipe
retaining clips adjacent to the air suction
valve.
50 Relieve the fuel system pressure as
described in Part D, Section 5.
51 Undo the two banjo union bolts securing
the fuel pipes to the front fuel rail. Release the
pipes and collect the copper washers. Cover
the open unions after disconnection then
move the pipes away.
52 Undo the vacuum pipe cluster support
bracket bolt and move the pipes slightly for
access to the air suction valve.
53 Undo the three bolts and withdraw the air
suction valve from the manifold. Recover the
gasket.
54 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Clean
the mating faces prior to refitting and use a
new gasket.

Air suction valve pipe (V6 engines) -
renewal

55 Remove the throttle body and the
electronic idle control valve as described in
Part D, Section 12.
56 Undo the two nuts from the suction valve
pipe front flange and release the heat shield
(see illustration).
57 Undo the two bolts at the suction valve
pipe rear flange (see illustration).
58 Disconnect the lead from the thermal
transmitter and release the lead from its clip.
59 Release the air suction pipe flanges and
remove the pipe from the engine. Recover the
two flange gaskets.
60 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Clean
the valve flange and manifold mating faces
prior to refitting and use a new gasket.

EGR valve and filter (V6 engines) -
renewal

61 Remove the air intake trunking and air
cleaner assembly as described in Part D,
Section 2.

62 Disconnect the EGR valve multiplug and
release the multiplug from its bracket.
63 Disconnect the vacuum hose at the valve.
64 Undo the two nuts and remove the EGR
valve from the filter housing (see illustration).
Recover the flange gasket.
65 Undo the two filter housing retaining bolts
and remove the housing from the cylinder
head. Recover the flange gasket and remove
the filter from the housing.
66 Clean the valve core and body using
compressed air and a small screwdriver. Take
care not to actuate the valve while holding it.
67 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Fit a new
filter during reassembly and use new gaskets
at the mating faces.

3

Catalytic converter - general
information and precautions

1 The catalytic converter is a reliable and
simple device, which needs no maintenance
in itself, but there are some facts of which an
owner should be aware if the converter is to
function properly for its full service life.
(a) DO NOT use leaded petrol in a vehicle

equipped with a catalytic converter - the
lead will coat the precious metals,
reducing their converting efficiency, and
will eventually destroy the converter.

(b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systems

well-maintained in accordance with the
manufacturer’s schedule (see Chapter 1).

(c) If the engine develops a misfire, do not

drive the vehicle at all (or at least as little
as possible) until the fault is cured.

(d) DO NOT push- or tow-start the vehicle -

this will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel, causing it to overheat
when the engine does start.

(e) DO NOT switch off the ignition at high

engine speeds, ie do not “blip” the
throttle immediately before switching off.

(f)

DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives -
these may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.

(g) DO NOT continue to use the vehicle if the

engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke.

(h) Remember that the catalytic converter

operates at very high temperatures. DO
NOT, therefore, park the vehicle in dry
undergrowth, over long grass or piles of
dead leaves, after a long run.

(i)

Remember that the catalytic converter is
FRAGILE. Do not strike it with tools
during servicing work.

(j)

In some cases, a sulphurous smell (like
that of rotten eggs) may be noticed from
the exhaust. This is common to many
catalytic converter-equipped vehicles.
Once the vehicle has covered a few
thousand miles, the problem should
disappear - in the meantime, try changing
the brand of petrol used.

(k) The catalytic converter used on a well-

maintained and well-driven vehicle should
last for between 50 000 and 
100 000 miles. If the converter is no
longer effective, it must be renewed.

2 The catalytic converter is located between
the exhaust system front and intermediate
sections and is removed and refitted in the
same way as the other sections. Always
renew the converter flange seals when the
unit is disturbed in any way, and ensure that
all retaining nuts are securely tightened. Refer
to the relevant earlier Parts of this Chapter, for
details of exhaust system removal and
refitting.

4E•4 Fuel and exhaust systems - Emissions control systems

1 Valve retaining

nuts

2 EGR valve
3 Gasket

4 Filter housing bolts
5 Filter housing
6 Gasket
7 Filter

2.64  EGR valve and filter components

2.57  Undo the two bolts (arrowed) at the

suction valve pipe rear flange

2.56  Undo the two nuts from the suction

valve pipe front flange and release the heat

shield

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

5

Battery

Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Lead-acid, maintenance-free

Rating - Cold cranking/Reserve capacity  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

480 A/90 RC, 570 A/110 RC, 520 A/120 RC

Ignition coil

4-cylinder engines:

Primary resistance at 20ºC (68ºF)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.71 to 0.81 ohms

Current consumption - engine idling  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.25 to 0.75 amps

V6 engines:

Primary/secondary resistance at 20ºC (68ºF) - see text:

Between terminals C and D  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.35 to 0.42 ohms

Between terminals B and D  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.1 to 2.3 kohms

Between terminals A and HT terminal (manual transmission) . . . . .

9.0 to 13.5 kohms

Between terminals A and HT terminal (automatic transmission)  . .

14.0 to 21.6 kohms

Ignition timing

2.5 litre engines (at idle speed, vacuum connected)*:

Manual transmission:

Unleaded fuel  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9º ± 2º

Leaded fuel  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

13º ± 2º

Automatic transmission:

Unleaded fuel  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7º ± 2º

Leaded fuel  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

11º ± 2º

2.7 litre engines (at idle speed)*:

Unleaded fuel  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

11º ± 2º

Leaded fuel  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

15º ± 2º

* Note: The ignition timing is only adjustable on the non-catalyst equipped V6 engines shown. On all other engines, ignition timing is controlled by
the fuel or ignition ECU and is not adjustable.

Firing order

4-cylinder engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at crankshaft pulley end)

V6 engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1-4-2-5-3-6 (No 1 cylinder at crankshaft pulley end of rear cylinder
head)

Chapter 5
Engine electrical systems

Alternator - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Alternator brushes and voltage regulator - inspection and renewal  . 18
Auxiliary drivebelts check and renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Battery - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

Battery check, maintenance and charging  . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Charging system - general information and precautions  . . . . . . . . . 15
Charging system - testing  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Crank/cylinder sensor - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Crankshaft sensor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Distributor (V6 engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

Distributor cap and rotor arm - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

Electronic control unit - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Engine compartment wiring check  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

General information, precautions and battery disconnection  . . . . . .

1

Igniter (V6 engines) - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

Ignition coil - testing, removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

Ignition system - general information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . .

3

Ignition system - testing  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

Ignition timing - adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Ignition timing sensor/adjuster (V6 engines) - removal and refitting  .

9

Knock sensor - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Spark plug renewal and HT lead check . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Starter motor - brush renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Starter motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Starting system - general information and precautions  . . . . . . . . . . 19
Starting system - testing  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

5•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1

Alternator

Type:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Lucas/Magneti-Marelli A127, A133 or A1271

V6 engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Nippondenso CGK 46

Brush length (nominal):

New . .20.0 mm
Minimum  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10.0 mm

Starter motor

Type:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Lucas/Magneti-Marelli M78R or M79

V6 engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Nippondenso DR 5U1

Minimum brush length (nominal):  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8.0 mm

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

4-cylinder engines:

Ignition coil bracket bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

24

18

Knock sensor  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12

9

Crankshaft sensor bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

4

Alternator pivot and mounting bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Alternator adjustment bracket bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12

9

Starter motor bolts:

Manual transmission  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

85

63

Automatic transmission  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

V6 engines:

Alternator side pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Alternator lower mounting nut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

24

18

Starter motor bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

5•2 Engine electrical systems

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1

General information,
precautions and battery
disconnection

General information

The engine electrical systems include all

ignition, charging and starting components.
Because of their engine-related functions,
these components are discussed separately
from body electrical devices such as the
lights, the instruments, etc (which are
included in Chapter 12).

Precautions

Always observe the following precautions

when working on the electrical system:
(a) Be extremely careful when servicing

engine electrical components. They are
easily damaged if checked, connected or
handled improperly.

(b) Never leave the ignition switched on for

long periods of time when the engine is
not running.

(c) Don’t disconnect the battery leads while

the engine is running.

(d) Maintain correct polarity when connecting

a battery lead from another vehicle during
jump starting - see the “Jump starting”
section at the front of this manual.

(e) Always disconnect the negative lead first,

and reconnect it last, or the battery may
be shorted by the tool being used to
loosen the lead clamps.

It’s also a good idea to review the safety-

related information regarding the engine
electrical systems located in the “Safety first!”
section at the front of this manual, before

beginning any operation included in this
Chapter.

Battery disconnection

Several systems fitted to many of the cars

covered by this manual require battery power
to be available at all times, either to ensure
their continued operation or to maintain
control unit memories (such as those used to
control the seat and mirror positions, the
operation of the electric windows and sun
roof, and the retention of the radio/cassette
and CD player security codes). Additionally,
on engines with single-point fuel injection, the
idle mixture settings stored in the fuel system
ECU will also be lost when the battery is
disconnected. Whenever the battery is to be
disconnected therefore, first note the
following, to ensure that there are no
unforeseen consequences of this action:
(a) First, on any vehicle with central locking, it

is a wise precaution to remove the key
from the ignition, and to keep it with you,
so that it does not get locked in if the
central locking should engage
accidentally when the battery is
reconnected!

(b) If the battery is disconnected while the

alarm system is armed or activated, the
alarm will remain in the same state when
the battery is reconnected.

(c) As mentioned above, on cars equipped

with single-point fuel injection, the idle
mixture settings stored in the memory of
the fuel system electronic control unit will
be lost whenever the battery is
disconnected. When the battery is
reconnected, the control unit will adopt a
set of nominal parameters which will allow

the engine to run, but the mixture setting
will be outside the manufacturer’s
specification. Should the engine
performance be unsatisfactory, the
control unit can be calibrated as a
temporary measure using the procedure
described in Chapter 4, Part A, Sec-
tion 11, until such time as, the setting can
be accurately adjusted by a dealer.

(d) Recalibration procedures for the seat and

mirror position memory, the electric sun
roof and window memories, and the “lazy
locking” memories on models so
equipped are provided in Chapter 11,
Section 1.

(e) If a Rover original equipment

radio/cassette player or CD player is
fitted, and the unit and/or the battery is
disconnected, the unit will not function
again on reconnection until the correct
security code is entered. Details of this
procedure, which varies according to the
unit and model year, are given in the
Rover “In-car entertainment” booklet
supplied with the vehicle when new.
Ensure you have the correct code before
you disconnect the battery. For obvious
security reasons, the procedure is not
given in this manual. If you do not have
the code or details of the correct
procedure, but can supply proof of
ownership and a legitimate reason for
wanting this information, the vehicle’s
selling dealer may be able to help.

Devices known as “memory-savers” (or

“code-savers”) can be used to avoid some of
the above problems. Precise details vary
according to the device used. Typically, it is
plugged into the cigarette lighter, and is

connected by its own wires to a spare battery;
the vehicle’s own battery is then
disconnected from the electrical system,
leaving the “memory-saver” to pass sufficient
current to maintain audio unit security codes
and ECU memory values, and also to run
permanently-live circuits such as the clock, all
the while isolating the battery in the event of a
short-circuit occurring while work is carried
out. Before using any of these devices, seek
the advice of a Rover dealer as to their
suitability for use on your car. 

Warning: Some of these devices
allow a considerable amount of
current to pass, which can mean
that many of the vehicle’s

systems are still operational when the
main battery is disconnected. If a
“memory-saver” is used, ensure that the
circuit concerned is actually “dead” before
carrying out any work on it!

2

Battery - 
removal and refitting

1

Note: Refer to the previous Section before
proceeding and also the relevant Sections of
Chapter 1.

Removal

1 The “sealed for life” battery is located on
the left-hand side of the engine compartment.
2 Slacken the negative (-) terminal clamp bolt
and lift the terminal off the battery post.
3 Lift the plastic cover from the positive (+)
terminal, slacken the clamp bolt and lift the
terminal off the battery post (see illustration).
4 Undo the retaining bolt and remove the
battery clamp plate (see illustration).
5 Lift the battery from the tray keeping it
upright and taking care not to touch any
clothing. Be careful - it’s heavy.
6 If required, the battery tray can be removed
after undoing the three retaining bolts.
7 Clean the battery terminal posts, clamps
and the battery casing. If the battery tray is
rusted as a result of battery acid spilling onto
it, clean it thoroughly and re-paint with
reference to Chapter 1.
8 If you are renewing the battery, make sure
that you get one that’s identical, with the
same dimensions, amperage rating, cold
cranking rating, etc. Dispose of the old battery
in a responsible fashion. Most local authorities
have facilities for the collection and disposal
of such items - batteries contain sulphuric
acid and lead, and should not be simply
thrown out with the household rubbish!

Refitting

9 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Smear the
battery terminals with a petroleum-based jelly
prior to reconnecting. Always connect the
positive terminal clamp first and the negative
terminal clamp last.

3

Ignition system - general
information and precautions

General information

4-cylinder engines

All 4-cylinder engine models covered by

this manual are equipped with a programmed
electronic ignition system, which utilizes
computer technology and electro-magnetic
circuitry to simulate the main functions of a
conventional ignition distributor.

A reluctor ring on the periphery of the

engine flywheel, and a crankshaft sensor
whose inductive head runs between the
reluctor ring teeth, replace the operation of
the contact breaker points in a conventional
system. The reluctor ring utilizes 34 teeth
spaced at 10º intervals, with two spaces, 180º
apart, corresponding to TDC for Nos 1 and 4
pistons, and Nos 2 and 3 pistons respectively.
As the crankshaft rotates, the reluctor ring
teeth pass over the crankshaft sensor, which
transmits a pulse to the ignition or ignition/fuel
electronic control unit (ECU) every time a
tooth passes over it. The ECU recognises the
absence of a pulse every 180º, and
consequently establishes the TDC position.
Each subsequent pulse then represents 10º of
crankshaft rotation. This, and the time interval
between pulses, allows the ECU to accurately
determine crankshaft position and speed.

A small bore pipe connecting the inlet

manifold to a pressure transducer within the
ECU supplies the unit with information on
engine load. From this constantly-changing
data, the ECU selects a particular advance
from a range of ignition characteristics stored
in its memory. The basic setting can be further
advanced or retarded, according to
information sent to the ECU from the coolant
temperature sensor, knock sensor and on
certain models, from the throttle pedal switch.

With the firing point established, the ECU

triggers the ignition coil, which delivers HT
voltage to the spark plugs in the conventional
manner. The cycle is then repeated many
times a second for each cylinder in turn.

In addition to the above operations, many

of the ignition system components have a
second function in the control and operation
of the fuel injection system. Further details will
be found in the appropriate Part of Chapter 4.

V6 engines

On all V6 engines a breakerless electronic

ignition system is used which comprises the
distributor, an igniter unit and the ignition coil.
The distributor is mounted on the left-hand
end of the front cylinder head and is driven
directly by the front camshaft. The ignition
system forms part of the engine management
package controlled by the fuel system
electronic control unit (ECU).

The distributor contains a reluctor mounted

on the distributor shaft, and a stator and pick-
up coil mounted on the baseplate. On 2.5 litre
engines the ignitor unit is attached to the side
of the distributor body, whereas on 2.7 litre
engines it is mounted separately at the rear
left-hand side of the engine compartment.

When the ignition is switched on, but the

engine is stationary, the transistors in the
igniter unit prevent current flowing through the
ignition system primary (LT) circuit. As the
crankshaft rotates, the reluctor moves
through the magnetic field created by the
stator. When the reluctor teeth are in
alignment with the stator projections, a small
AC voltage is created and sensed by the pick-
up coil. The igniter uses this voltage to switch
the transistors in the unit and completes the
ignition system primary (LT) circuit.

As the reluctor teeth move out of alignment

with the stator projections, the AC voltage
changes and the transistors in the igniter are
switched again to interrupt the primary (LT)
circuit. This causes a high voltage to be
induced in the coil secondary (HT) windings
which then travels down the HT lead to the
distributor and onto the relevant spark plug.

On 2.5 litre engines ignition advance is

controlled by both centrifugal and vacuum
operated systems. Centrifugal advance is
controlled by engine speed whereas vacuum
advance is controlled by the ignition control
system. This system uses solenoid valves and
sensors to apply vacuum to one of the two
distributor vacuum diaphragms dependant on
engine operating parameters. Sensors

Engine electrical systems  5•3

2.4  Removing the battery clamp retaining

bolt

2.3  Lift off the plastic cover for access to

the battery positive terminal

5

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

monitor manifold pressure, coolant
temperature, intake air temperature,
atmospheric pressure and engine speed and
pass signals to the fuel system ECU.
According to the signals received, the ECU
controls the operation of the solenoid valves
to provide the appropriate vacuum necessary
to create the required ignition advance.

On 2.7 litre engines ignition advance is

controlled entirely by the fuel system ECU. As
with the 2.5 litre engines, sensors monitor
engine parameters and send signals to the
ECU accordingly. From the information
received, the required ignition advance is
determined by the ECU for all engine operating
conditions. In addition to the sensors
described for 2.5 litre engines, 2.7 litre models
also utilise a crank/cylinder sensor, mounted
just behind the front camshaft sprocket, to
detect the TDC position for No 1 cylinder and
to determine engine speed and piston position.
An additional TDC sensor, mounted in the
distributor, is used to provide a fixed ignition
timing setting during engine cranking and as a
back-up unit should the crank/cylinder sensor
fail, or produce erroneous signals.

In addition to the above operations, many

of the ignition system components have a
second function in the control and operation
of the fuel injection system. Further details will
be found in the appropriate Part of Chapter 4.

Precautions

When working on the ignition system, take

the following precautions:
(a) Do not keep the ignition switched on for

more than 10 seconds if the engine will
not start.

(b) If a separate tachometer is ever required

for servicing work, consult a dealer
service department before buying a
tachometer for use with this vehicle -
some tachometers may be incompatible
with these types of ignition systems - and
always connect it in accordance with the
equipment manufacturer’s instructions.

(c) Never connect the ignition coil terminals

to earth. This could result in damage to
the coil and/or the ECU or igniter unit.

(d) Do not disconnect the battery when the

engine is running.

(e) Refer to the warning at the beginning of

the next Section concerning HT voltage.

4

Ignition system - testing

2

Warning: Voltages produced by
an electronic ignition system are
considerably higher than those
produced by conventional ignition

systems. Extreme care must be taken when
working on the system if the ignition is
switched on. Persons with surgically-
implanted cardiac pacemaker devices
should keep well clear of the ignition circuits,
components and test equipment.

General

1 The components of the electronic ignition
system are normally very reliable; most faults
are far more likely to be due to loose or dirty
connections, or to “tracking” of HT voltage
due to dirt, dampness or damaged insulation,
than to the failure of any of the system’s
components.  Always

check all wiring

thoroughly before condemning an electrical
component, and work methodically to
eliminate all other possibilities before deciding
that a particular component is faulty.
2 The old practice of checking for a spark by
holding the live end of an HT lead a short
distance away from the engine is not
recommended; not only is there a high risk of
a powerful electric shock, but the HT coil,
ECU or igniter unit may be damaged.
Similarly, never try to “diagnose” misfires by
pulling off one HT lead at a time.

Engine will not start

3 If the engine either will not turn over at all,
or only turns very slowly, check the battery
and starter motor. Connect a voltmeter across
the battery terminals (meter positive probe to
battery positive terminal) then note the voltage
reading obtained while turning the engine over
on the starter for (no more than) ten seconds.
If the reading obtained is less than
approximately 9.5 volts, first check the
battery, starter motor and charging system as
described in the relevant Sections of this
Chapter.
4 If the engine turns over at normal speed but
will not start, check the HT circuit by
connecting a timing light (following its
manufacturer’s instructions) and turning the
engine over on the starter motor; if the light
flashes, voltage is reaching the spark plugs,
so these should be checked first. If the light
does not flash, check the HT leads
themselves, followed by the distributor cap,
carbon brush and rotor arm, using the
information given in Chapter 1.
5 If there is a spark, check the fuel system for
faults, referring to the relevant part of Chap-
ter 4 for further information.
6 If there is still no spark, check the condition
of fuse 15 (early models) or fuse 19 (later
models) in the passenger compartment
fusebox. If the fuse is sound, check the
voltage at the ignition coil “+” terminal (light
green wire on V6 engines and early 4-cylinder
engines, brown/pink wire on later 4-cylinder
engines); it should be the same as the battery
voltage (ie, at least 11.7 volts). If the voltage at
the coil is more than 1 volt less than that at
the battery, check the condition of all the
circuit wiring, referring to the wiring diagrams
at the end of this manual.
7 If the feed to the coil is sound, check the
coil’s primary and secondary winding
resistance as described later in Section 7. If
faulty, a new coil should be fitted. However,
check carefully the condition of the LT
connections themselves before doing so, to

ensure that the fault is not due to dirty or
poorly-fastened connectors.
8 If the coil is in good condition, the fault is
probably within the crankshaft sensor or the
fuel or ignition ECU on 4-cylinder engines, or
within the pick-up coil, igniter, or fuel ECU on
V6 engines. Testing of these components
should be entrusted to a Rover dealer.

Engine misfires

9 An irregular misfire suggests either a loose
connection or intermittent fault on the primary
circuit, or an HT fault on the coil side of the
rotor arm.
10 With the ignition switched off, check
carefully through the system, ensuring that all
connections are clean and securely fastened.
If the equipment is available, check the LT
circuit as described above.
11 Check that the ignition coil, the distributor
cap and the HT leads are clean and dry.
Check the leads themselves and the spark
plugs (by substitution if necessary), then
check the distributor cap, carbon brush and
rotor arm as described in Chapter 1.
12 Regular misfiring is almost certainly due to
a fault in the distributor cap, HT leads or spark
plugs. Use a timing light (paragraph 4 above)
to check whether HT voltage is present at all
leads.
13 If HT voltage is not present on any
particular lead, the fault will be in that lead, or
in the distributor cap. If HT is present on all
leads, the fault will be in the spark plugs;
check and renew them if there is any doubt
about their condition.
14 If no HT is present, check the ignition coil;
its secondary windings may be breaking
down under load.

5

Distributor cap and rotor
arm - removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Using an open-ended spanner, undo the
two retaining screws and lift off the distributor
cap from the cylinder head or distributor as
applicable (see illustration). On V6 engines,
recover the large O-ring seal from the base of

5•4 Engine electrical systems

5.1  Undo the two retaining screws and lift

off the distributor cap

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

the cap. Clean and check the cap as
described in Chapter 1.
2 If the cap is to be renewed, record the
position of the HT leads in relation to the cap,
then pull them off. Transfer the leads to a new
cap, refitting them in the same position.
3 To remove the rotor arm, withdraw the
plastic shield (where fitted), then undo the
retaining grub screw using an Allen key (see
illustrations). Withdraw the rotor arm 
from the end of the camshaft or distributor
shaft.

Refitting

4 Refitting the rotor arm, shield and
distributor cap is a reversal of removal. Ensure
that all traces of thread locking compound are
removed from the rotor arm retaining grub
screw and its threaded hole, then apply fresh
thread locking compound, such as 
Loctite 222 or equivalent prior to refitting.
Failure to remove all traces of old compound
first, may cause seizure of the grub screw,
making subsequent removal impossible.

6

Distributor (V6 engines) -
removal and refitting

3

2.5 litre engines

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Section 1 before doing this).
2 Using an open-ended spanner, undo the
two retaining screws and lift off the distributor
cap. Recover the large O-ring seal from the
base of the cap.
3 Release the wiring multiplug and, where
applicable, the EGR valve vacuum hose from
the distributor support clips.
4 Mark the position of the vacuum hose
connections at the distributor vacuum unit
and disconnect the hoses.
5 Disconnect the distributor multiplug from
the ignition coil and the lead from the radio
condenser then release the wiring from the
cable clips.

6 Prise off the plastic cap from the bolt
securing the distributor to the cylinder head.
7 Using a small punch or fine file, mark the
position of the distributor base relative to the
cylinder head.
8 Undo the distributor retaining bolt and
withdraw the unit from the cylinder head.
Recover the O-ring at the base of the
distributor body.

Refitting

9 With the distributor located on the cylinder
head, turn the rotor arm until the offset drive
dog positively engages with the slot in the end
of the camshaft, then push the distributor
body fully home. Once in place, align the
distributor body with the mark made on
removal. The remainder of refitting is a
reversal of removal. After installation, adjust
the ignition timing as described in Section 10.

2.7 litre engines

Removal

10 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Section 1 before doing this).
11 Using an open-ended spanner, undo the
two retaining screws and lift off the distributor
cap. Recover the large O-ring seal from the
base of the cap.
12 Release the wiring multiplug and the EGR
valve vacuum hoses from the distributor
support clips.
13 Disconnect the distributor multiplug from
the connector on the side of the distributor.

14 Undo the support clip bolt and release the
harness from the side of the distributor body
(see illustration).
15 Undo the distributor retaining bolt and
withdraw the unit from the cylinder head (see
illustrations). Recover the O-ring at the base
of the distributor body.

Refitting

16 With the distributor located on the
cylinder head, turn the rotor arm until the
offset drive dog positively engages with the
slot in the end of the camshaft, then push the
distributor body fully home. The remainder of
refitting is a reversal of removal.

7

Ignition coil - 
testing, removal and refitting

2

Testing

1 The ignition coil is mounted on the left-hand
side of the engine compartment, on the
suspension strut tower.
2 Testing of the coil is carried out using an
ohmmeter, or multi-meter set to its resistance
function, to check the primary and secondary
coil windings for continuity. Ensure that the
ignition is switched off before carrying out the
following checks.
3 On 4-cylinder engines disconnect the LT
and HT wiring at the coil, and connect an
ohmmeter across the positive and negative LT

Engine electrical systems  5•5

5.3b  . . . then undo the rotor arm grub

screw

5.3a  Where fitted, withdraw the plastic

shield . . .

6.15b  . . . and withdraw the unit from the

cylinder head

6.15a  Undo the distributor retaining 

bolt . . .

6.14  Undo the bolt (arrowed) and release

the wiring harness from the side of the

distributor body

5

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

terminals  (see illustration). The primary
winding resistance should be as given in the
Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter. If the resistance is not as specified,
the coil should be renewed.
4 On V6 engines, disconnect the wiring
multiplug(s) and the distributor HT lead at the
coil and connect an ohmmeter across the
multiplug terminals as follows (see
illustration).
Between terminals C and D.
Between terminals B and D.
Between terminal A and the HT terminal.
The resistances should be as given in the
Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter. If the resistance is not as specified,
the coil should be renewed.
5 If the coil is thought to be faulty, have your
findings confirmed by a Rover dealer before
renewing the coil.

Removal

6 To remove the coil, disconnect the LT leads
or multiplugs at the coil terminals, and the HT
lead at the centre terminal.
7 Undo the mounting bracket retaining bolt(s)
and remove the coil.

8 On 4-cylinder engines, note the position of
the positive and negative terminals in relation
to the mounting bracket, then slacken the
mounting bracket screw and slide out the coil.

Refitting

9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

8

Igniter (V6 engines) - 
removal and refitting

3

2.5 litre engines

Removal

1 Remove the distributor as described in
Section 6.
2 Undo the two igniter cover securing screws
on the side of the distributor body (see
illustration).
3 Move the wiring aside and lift off the cover.
4 Carefully withdraw the igniter from its
connection on the side of the distributor.

Refitting

5 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
igniter and distributor and apply a silicone
grease to the distributor mating face.

6 Locate the igniter in position then refit the
cover and the wiring clip.
7 Refit the distributor as described in Sec-
tion 6, then adjust the ignition timing as
described in Section 10.

2.7 litre engines

Removal

8 The igniter is located on the left-hand side
of the engine compartment, behind the
fusebox (see illustration).
9 Ensure that the ignition is switched off then
disconnect the igniter wiring multiplug.
10 Undo the two retaining screws and
withdraw the igniter from its mounting
bracket.

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

9

Ignition timing
sensor/adjuster (V6 engines)
- removal and refitting

3

General

1 The ignition timing sensor/adjuster is only
fitted to 2.7 litre engines and is located in the
control box mounted on the engine
compartment bulkhead. On non-catalyst
equipped engines, the ignition timing adjuster
is used to alter the ignition timing to allow the
engine to run on leaded or unleaded fuel. On
catalyst equipped engines the ignition timing
is not adjustable and the ignition timing
sensor is used in a monitoring capacity by the
fuel system ECU.

Removal

2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Section 1 before doing this).
3 Slacken the two bolts securing the control
box to the bulkhead.

5•6 Engine electrical systems

8.8  Igniter multiplug (A) and retaining

screws (B) on 2.7 litre engines

8.2  Igniter component details on 2.5 litre

engines

1 Retaining screws

3 Igniter

2 Igniter cover

7.4  Ignition coil connections and terminal identification on V6 engines

Left-hand illustration - manual transmission        Right-hand illustration - automatic transmission

7.3  Ignition coil connections and

attachments on 4-cylinder engines

1 LT negative lead
2 LT positive lead
3 HT lead
4 Mounting bracket retaining bolt
5 Coil-to-bracket retaining screw

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake