Rover 820, 825, 827. Repair Manual - part 13

Repairs of minor scratches in
bodywork

If the scratch is very superficial, and does

not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint
from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.

Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a

fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.

Where the scratch has penetrated right

through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique
is required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of
the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.

Repairs of dents in bodywork

When deep denting of the vehicle’s

bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is
better to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 3 mm below the level of
the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being
“belled-out”.

Should the dent be in a section of the

bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside

the area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.

The next stage of the repair is the removal

of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a really good “key” for
the filler paste.

To complete the repair, see the Section on

filling and respraying.

Repairs of rust holes or gashes
in bodywork

Remove all paint from the affected area,

and from an inch or so of the surrounding
“sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a
wire brush on a power drill. If these are not
available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job most effectively. With the paint
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide
whether to renew the whole panel (if this is
possible) or to repair the affected area. New
body panels are not as expensive as most
people think, and it is often quicker and more
satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt
to repair large areas of corrosion.

Remove all fittings from the affected area,

except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in
order to create a slight depression for the filler
paste.

Wire-brush the affected area to remove the

powdery rust from the surface of the
remaining metal. Paint the affected area with
rust-inhibiting paint, if the back of the rusted
area is accessible, treat this also.

Before filling can take place, it will be

necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.

Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre

matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.

Aluminium tape should be used for small or

very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim
it to the approximate size and shape required,

then pull off the backing paper (if used) and
stick the tape over the hole; it can be
overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.

Bodywork repairs - filling and
respraying

Before using this Section, see the Sections

on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.

Many types of bodyfiller are available, but

generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair.
A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will
be found invaluable for imparting a smooth
and well-contoured finish to the surface of the
filler.

Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card

or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long, the paste will become sticky and begin
to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to
add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute
intervals, until the level of the filler is just
proud of the surrounding bodywork.

Once the filler has hardened, the excess

can be removed using a metal plane or file.
From then on, progressively-finer grades of
abrasive paper should be used, starting with a
40-grade production paper, and finishing with
a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of
the filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-
dry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.

At this stage, the “dent” should be

surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.

Spray the whole area with a light coat of

primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are
satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the
feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.
Clean the repair area with clean water, and
allow to dry fully. 

Bodywork and fittings  11•3

11

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

The repair area is now ready for final

spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations.

Before commencing to spray, agitate the

aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint, rather
than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused with
water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint.

Spray on the top coat, again building up the

thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying at one edge of the repair area,
and then, using a side-to-side motion, work
until the whole repair area and about 2 inches
of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15
minutes after spraying on the final coat of paint.

Allow the new paint at least two weeks to

harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or
a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of
the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally,
apply wax polish.

Plastic components

With the use of more and more plastic body

components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg
bumpers. spoilers, and in some cases major
body panels), rectification of more serious
damage to such items has become a matter
of either entrusting repair work to a specialist
in this field, or renewing complete
components. Repair of such damage by the
DIY owner is not really feasible, owing to the
cost of the equipment and materials required
for effecting such repairs. The basic technique
involves making a groove along the line of the
crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in a
power drill. The damaged part is then welded
back together, using a hot-air gun to heat up
and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.
Any excess plastic is then removed, and the
area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is
important that a filler rod of the correct plastic
is used, as body components can be made of
a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,
ABS, polypropylene).

Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,

minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions,
this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork
filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.

If the owner is renewing a complete

component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will be left with the
problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing
which is compatible with the type of plastic
used. At one time, the use of a universal paint
was not possible, owing to the complex range
of plastics encountered in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally
speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber
satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to
obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which
consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer
and coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the
method of use is to first apply the pre-primer
to the component concerned, and allow it to
dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is
applied, and left to dry for about an hour
before finally applying the special-coloured

top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured
component, where the paint will flex with the
plastic or rubber, a property that standard
paint does not normally possess.

5

Major body damage - 
repair

5

Where serious damage has occurred, or large

areas need renewal due to neglect, it means
that complete new panels will need welding in;
this is best left to professionals. If the damage is
due to impact, it will also be necessary to check
completely the alignment of the bodyshell; this
can only be carried out accurately by a Rover
dealer using special jigs. If the body is left
misaligned, it is primarily dangerous as the car
will not handle properly and secondly, uneven
stresses will be imposed on the steering,
suspension and possibly transmission, causing
abnormal wear or complete failure, particularly
to items such as the tyres.

6

Bonnet - 
removal, refitting and
adjustment

1

Removal

1 Open the bonnet and remove the sound-
deadening material on the left-hand side by
releasing the clip retainers (see illustration).
2 Undo the two screws securing the
illumination light to the bonnet, feed the lamp
and wiring down behind the sound-deadening
material and retrieve it from the bottom of the
bonnet (see illustration). Place the light and
wiring to one side.
3 Disconnect the windscreen washer fluid
feed hose at the two-way connector (see
illustration).
4 Place some rags beneath the bonnet
corners, by the hinges.
5 Mark the position of the hinges by drawing
around them with a soft pencil, then loosen
the retaining bolts.
6 Engage the help of an assistant to support
the bonnet.

11•4 Bodywork and fittings

6.3  Disconnect the windscreen washer

fluid feed hose (arrowed)

6.2  Remove the under-bonnet illumination

light

6.1  Remove the sound-deadening material

by releasing the clip retainers

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

If bodystopper is used, it can
be mixed with cellulose
thinners to form a really thin
paste which is ideal for

filling small holes.

7 Using a small screwdriver, prise out the
clips securing the support struts to the pegs
on the bonnet (see illustration). Release both
struts from their pegs.
8 Undo the retaining bolts and carefully lift
away the bonnet.

Refitting

9 Refitting is a reversal of removal; adjust the
bonnet on the hinges to its original position,
then check the alignment as follows.

Adjustment

10 Close the bonnet and check the alignment
with the adjacent body panels. The bonnet
can be moved forward and backward by
adjusting its position at each hinge. If the
bonnet is too low with respect to the adjacent
wing, fit small shims between the hinge and
bonnet.
11 Check the bonnet closure and ease of
opening. If the striker pins do not engage
smoothly with the lock plates, slacken the
striker plate retaining bolts and reposition the
plates. If necessary, slacken the locknut and
adjust the striker pin height by turning the
slotted end with a screwdriver.

7

Bonnet lock and release
cable - removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 From inside the car, undo the bolts and
withdraw the release lever from the right-hand
side of the footwell.
2 Disengage the cables from the lever.
3 Working in the engine compartment, undo
the bolts securing the relevant bonnet lock to
the front body panel.
4 Withdraw the lock from under the body
panel and disengage the release cable.
5 Release the cable from the retaining clips
and ties in the engine compartment, and from
the bulkhead grommet.
6 Feed the cable through into the 
engine compartment and remove it from the
car.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjust the
bonnet lock as described in Section 6, if
necessary.

8

Boot lid - removal, refitting
and adjustment

1

Removal

1 Open the boot lid and remove the plastic
cover over the lock.
2 Release the retaining clip and disconnect
the link rod from the lock lever.
3 Disconnect the wiring at the connector
adjacent to the lock.
4 Undo the two bolts and withdraw the lock
from the boot lid.
5 Withdraw the lock release cable outer
sheath from the lock bracket, and disconnect
the inner cable from the lock lever.
6 Withdraw the grommet from the cable entry
point above the boot lid hinge, and release the
cable from the hinge cable clips and ties.
Withdraw the release cable and wiring.
7 With an assistant supporting the boot lid,
undo the four hinge bolts and lift the boot lid
away.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Engage
the centre groove of the lock release cable
sheath into the lock bracket slot initially, but
use an alternative groove if the release lever
action is unsatisfactory.

Adjustment

9 With the boot lid closed, check the
relationship of the lid with the adjacent panels.
If necessary, the boot can be repositioned by
altering the position of the hinges at their
body attachment. To do this, remove the rear
seats as described in Section 43, and remove
the parcel shelf. Slacken the hinge nuts and
reposition the hinges as required. Tighten the
nuts, then close the boot lid and check the
operation of the lock. If necessary, slacken
the striker plate bolts, reposition the striker
plate and tighten the bolts (see illustration).
10 Refit the parcel shelf and rear seats on
completion.

9

Boot lock - 
removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 On later models, remove the boot
lid/tailgate lock solenoid as described in
Section 18.
2 Remove the plastic cover over the lock (see
illustration).
3 Where applicable, release the retaining clip
and disconnect the link rod from the lock lever.
4 Disconnect the wiring at the connector
adjacent to the lock.
5 Undo the two bolts and withdraw the lock
from the boot lid.
6 Withdraw the lock release cable outer
sheath from the lock bracket, disconnect the
inner cable from the lock lever, and remove
the lock.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Engage
the centre groove of the lock release cable
sheath into the lock bracket slot initially, but
use an alternative groove if the release lever
action is unsatisfactory.

10 Boot lid private lock -

removal and refitting

1

Pre-1992 model year

Removal

1 Remove the number plate from the boot lid.
2 From inside the boot lid, undo the screws

Bodywork and fittings  11•5

6.7  Prise out the support strut retaining

clips

9.2  Boot lock attachments - early models

shown, later models similar

1 Plastic cover
2 Link rod retaining

clip

3 Link rod
4 Wiring connector

5 Lock retaining

bolts

6 Release cable

outer sheath

7 Inner cable
8 Boot lock

8.9  Boot lid striker plate retaining bolts

(arrowed)

11

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

and remove the centre lens and reflector
assembly (see illustration).
3 Extract the retaining circlip from the private
lock lever, and withdraw the link rod.
4 Drill out the three retaining rivets, and
remove the private lock from the boot lid (see
illustration).

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

1992 model year onwards

Removal

6 Remove the boot lock as described in
Section 9.
7 Disconnect the private lock wiring
multiplug.
8 Extract the retaining clip and withdraw the
private lock from the boot lid.

Refitting

9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

11 Boot lid/tailgate and fuel

filler flap release control -
removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Withdraw the knobs from the release levers
inside the car (see illustration).
2 Undo the two screws securing the release
control cover - one on the side face, and one
under a flap at the rear (see illustration).
3 Withdraw the cover retaining stud on the

inner face, then lift the cover off the release
control (see illustrations).
4 Undo the screws securing the front sill
tread plate, lift off the tread plate, and pull
back the carpet around the release control.
5 Undo the three screws and withdraw the
release control.
6 Disconnect the inner cable end(s) and outer
cable sheath(s) and, if applicable, the wiring
connectors. Remove the control from the car.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Note that
on models with twin cables, the boot/tailgate
release cable with the single groove in the
outer cable sheath is fitted to the upper
location, and the fuel filler flap release with the
three grooves in the outer cable sheath is
fitted to the lower location. Engage the centre
groove with the bracket when fitting the filler
flap cable, and check the release operation. If
unsatisfactory, use an alternate groove.

12 Boot lid/tailgate release

cable - removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Remove the boot lid/tailgate and fuel filler
flap release control as described in Sec-
tion 11.
2 Undo the screws securing the rear sill tread
plate, lift off the tread plate and move aside
the carpet around the sill.

3 Remove the rear seat as described in
Section 42.
4 On Saloon models, open the boot lid and
remove the plastic cover over the lock. On
Fastback models, open the tailgate, release
the screw studs and remove the tailgate inner
trim panel.
5 Release the retaining clip and disconnect
the link rod from the lock lever.
6 Disconnect the wiring at the connector
adjacent to the lock.
7 Undo the two bolts and withdraw the lock
from the boot lid/tailgate.
8 Withdraw the lock release cable outer
sheath from the lock bracket, and disconnect
the inner cable from the lock lever.
9 Withdraw the grommet from the cable entry
point and release the cable from the cable
clips and ties.
10 Withdraw the release cable from the boot
lid/tailgate.
11 Tie a drawstring to the release control end
of the cable, and pull the cable into the
luggage compartment. Untie the drawstring
and remove the release cable from the car.

Refitting

12 Tie the drawstring to the new cable, and
pull it through into the car interior.
13 Refit the cable to the release lever and
lock, then reassemble the components using
a reversal of removal. When refitting the cable
to the lock, engage the centre groove of the
cable sheath into the lock bracket slot initially,
but use an alternative groove if the release
lever action is unsatisfactory.

11•6 Bodywork and fittings

11.3b  . . . for access to the release control

assembly

11.3a  Withdraw the cover . . .

11.2  Undo the release lever control cover

retaining screws

11.1  Withdraw the boot lid/tailgate and

fuel filler flap release lever knobs

10.4  Boot lid private lock retaining rivets

10.2  Undo the centre lens and reflector

retaining screw

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

13 Fuel filler flap release cable -

removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Open the fuel filler flap, then remove the
boot lid/tailgate and fuel filler flap release
control, as described in Section 11.
2 Undo the screws securing the rear sill tread
plate, lift off the tread plate and move aside
the carpet around the sill.
3 Remove the rear seat as described in
Section 43.
4 Extract the retaining clip securing the cable
end at the filler flap end, and push the cable
through into the luggage compartment.
5 Release the cable from the retaining clips,
and pull it into the car interior.

6 Where fitted, undo the screws and remove
the cover strip over the cable beneath the rear
seat location.
7 Release the cable from any further clips and
ties, and remove it from the car.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, with
reference to Section 11 when refitting the
cable to the release control.

14 Tailgate - 

removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Open the tailgate and release the parcel
shelf support strings.
2 From inside the car, remove the headliner
rear finisher for access to the tailgate hinge
retaining nuts.
3 Disconnect the screen washer hose, and
the tailgate wiring harness connectors.
4 Support the tailgate with the help of an
assistant, or using a prop.
5 Extract the wire spring retainer securing
each support strut to its tailgate ball-stud, and
release the struts.
6 Undo the tailgate hinge retaining nuts and
remove the tailgate from the car.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, in
conjunction with the following adjustment
procedure.

8 With the tailgate closed, check the
relationship of the tailgate with the adjacent
panels. If necessary, it can be repositioned by
altering the position of the hinges at their
body attachment. Slacken the hinge nuts, and
reposition the hinges are required. Tighten the
nuts, then close the tailgate and check the
operation of the lock. If necessary, slacken
the striker plate bolts, reposition the striker
plate and tighten the bolts.

15 Tailgate support strut -

removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Open the tailgate and support it with the
help of an assistant, or using a prop.
2 Extract the wire spring retainer securing the
upper end of the support strut to its ball-stud,
and release the strut (see illustrations).
3 Release the strut lower end clip, ease the
strut from its stud and remove it from the car
(see illustration).
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

16 Tailgate lock -

removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Open the tailgate, release the screw studs
and remove the tailgate inner trim panel (see
illustration).
2 On later models, remove the boot
lid/tailgate lock solenoid as described in
Section 18.
3 Remove the plastic cover from the lock
(see illustration).
4 Where applicable, release the retaining clip
and remove the link rod from the lock lever.
5 Disconnect the wiring multiplugs at the
harness connectors, or the two wires at the
lock as applicable.
6 Undo the two lock retaining bolts and
withdraw the lock from the tailgate (see
illustration).
7 Where applicable, withdraw the lock

Bodywork and fittings  11•7

15.3  Release the strut lower end from its

stud

15.2b  . . . and release the strut from the

stud

15.2a  Extract the support strut wire spring

retainer . . .

16.6  Undo the two lock retaining bolts

(arrowed)

16.3  Remove the plastic cover from the

lock

16.1  Release the screw studs and remove

the tailgate inner trim panel

11

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

release cable outer sheath from the lock
bracket and disconnect the inner cable from
the lock lever

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

17 Tailgate private lock -

removal and refitting

1

Pre-1992 model year

Removal

1 Open the tailgate, release the screw studs
and remove the tailgate inner trim panel.
2 Remove the number plate from the tailgate.
3 From inside the tailgate, undo the screws
and remove the centre lens and reflector
assembly.
4 Extract the retaining circlip from the private
lock lever, and withdraw the lever from the
lock (see illustration).
5 Drill out the three retaining rivets and
remove the private lock from the tailgate.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

1992 model year onwards

Removal

7 Remove the tailgate lock as described in
Section 16.

8 Disconnect the private lock wiring
multiplug.
9 Extract the retaining clip and withdraw the
private lock from the tailgate (see
illustration).

Refitting

10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

18 Boot lid/tailgate lock

solenoid - 
removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Open the boot lid/tailgate, release the
screw studs and remove the inner trim panel.
2 On early models, remove the number plate
from the tailgate then undo the screws and
remove the centre lens and reflector
assembly.
3 Disconnect the solenoid wiring multiplug.
4 Undo the two screws and remove the
solenoid.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

19 Radiator grille - 

removal and refitting

1

Pre-1992 model year

Removal

1 Undo the four grille upper retaining screws
(see illustration).
2 Release the two lower retaining clips and
withdraw the grille from the car (see
illustration).

Refitting

3 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

1992 model year onwards

Removal

4 Carefully prise out the Rover motif from the
centre of the grille (see illustration).

11•8 Bodywork and fittings

19.4  Radiator grille attachments on later models

19.2  . . . and release the two lower

retaining clips

19.1  On early models, undo the radiator

grille upper retaining screws (arrowed) . . .

17.9  Private lock component attachments

on later models

17.4  Private lock lever retaining circlip

(arrowed) on early models

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Rover motif
2 Retaining bolts
3 Radiator grille
4 Rubber surround

5 Open the bonnet and undo the seven bolts
securing the grille panel.
6 Remove the grille from the bonnet and
recover the rubber surround.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

20 Windscreen, rear window

and tailgate glass - 
removal and refitting

5

The primary window glass on the Rover 800

Series is flush-glazed, and secured to the
body shell by direct bonding. Due to this
method of retention, special tools and
equipment are required for removal and
refitting, and this task is definitely beyond the

scope of the home mechanic. If it is necessary
to have windscreen, rear window or tailgate
window glass removed, this job should be left
to a suitably-equipped specialist.

21 Front door inner trim panel -

removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Insert a small screwdriver into the slot at
the rear of the interior locking button, and
prise apart the outer moulded half of the
locking button. Lift off the outer half, then
remove the inner half from the locking rod
(see illustrations).

2 On early models, carefully prise out the
finisher trim from the inner handle, disconnect
the tweeter speaker leads and remove the
finisher (see illustrations).
3 On later models, prise out the door inner
handle centre finisher trim, and undo the two
screws securing the trim surround to the door.
Pull the door handle outwards, and
manipulate the trim surround off the handle
and door panel (see illustrations).
Disconnect the tweeter speaker leads from
the rear of the trim surround, and remove the
surround.
4 Prise out the blanking plate or interior light
from the trim panel, and where applicable,
disconnect the wiring and remove the light.
5 Undo the screw at the top of the door pull
below the interior handle (see illustration).

Bodywork and fittings  11•9

21.1c  . . . followed by the inner half

21.1b  . . . and lift out the outer half . . .

21.1a  Prise apart the interior lock 

button . . .

21.5  Undo the screw at the top of the door

pull

21.3c  Manipulate the surround off the

handle

21.3b  . . . and undo the trim surround

screws

21.3a  On later models, prise out the inner

handle centre finisher trim . . .

21.2b  . . . and disconnect the tweeter

speaker leads

21.2a  On early models, prise out the inner

handle finisher trim . . .

11

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

6 Ease back the padded trim at the bottom of
the panel, or lift off the plastic cap, to expose
the retaining screw, then undo the screw (see
illustrations).
7 Pull out the blanking plug on the rear side of
the panel, and undo the recessed screw
behind (see illustrations).
8 Undo the screw at the upper front corner of
the panel (see illustration).
9 Undo the screw at each end of the storage
bin (see illustrations).
10 Working through the blanking plate or
interior light aperture, undo the screw in the
recess (see illustration).
11 Where fitted, undo the screw from the

bottom of the door pull finger grip, and
remove the finger grip from the panel.
12 If the panel incorporates a moulded 
door pull, prise out the blanking plug and
undo the recessed screw behind (see
illustrations).
13 Where applicable, release the rubber boot
over the door mirror adjustment stalk, release
the stalk retaining clips and push the stalk
through to the inside of the panel (see
illustrations).
14 Using a flat tool or your fingers, release
the eight studs securing the panel to the door
by prising the panel out, or sharply pulling it
out, in the vicinity of each stud. Lift the panel

11•10 Bodywork and fittings

21.12b  . . . and undo the recessed screw

behind

21.12a  If the panel has a moulded door

pull, prise out the blanking plug . . .

21.10  Undo the screw behind the blanking

plate or interior light

21.9b  . . . and rear screw

21.9a  Undo the storage bin front screw . . .

21.8  Undo the screw at the front corner

21.7b  . . . and undo the recessed rear side

screw

21.7a  Pull out the blanking plug . . .

21.6b  . . . or behind the plastic cap

21.6a  Undo the bottom screw behind the

padded trim . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

upwards and withdraw it from the door (see
illustration).
15 Disconnect the switch panel wiring
multiplug from the rear of the panel and
remove the panel.

Refitting

16 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

22 Front door - removal, refitting

and adjustment

1

Removal

1 Remove the front door inner trim panel as
described in Section 21.
2 Release the masking tape and carefully

peel back the polythene condensation barrier
for access to the internal wiring multiplugs.
3 Identify the multiplugs for refitting, then
disconnect them from the door components.
Withdraw the wiring harness from the door.
4 Using a drift, tap out the door check strap
retaining roll pin (see illustration).
5 With the help of an assistant, support the
door on a padded jack, undo the four hinge
retaining bolts and withdraw the door from the
car.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Adjustment

7 Check the fit of the door against the
surrounding panels, and if necessary slacken
the hinge bolts and reposition the door.
8 When the door fit is correct, check the
operation of the lock, and if necessary slacken

the striker plate screws and reposition the
striker plate (see illustration). Tighten all the
bolts and screws securely on completion.

23 Front door lock - 

removal and refitting

1

Saloon and Fastback models

Removal

1 Remove the front door inner trim panel as
described in Section 21.
2 Release the masking tape and carefully
peel back the polythene condensation barrier
as necessary for access to the door lock area.
3 Carefully prise out the door lock link rod
and control rod from their attachments at the
private lock lever and exterior handle lever
respectively (see illustration).

Bodywork and fittings  11•11

21.14  Withdraw the panel from the door

21.13b  . . . release the stalk retaining clips

and push the stalk through the panel

21.13a  Release the rubber boot over the

manual door mirror adjustment stalk . . .

23.3  Front door lock attachments - Saloon and Fastback models shown, Coupe similar

22.8  Door striker plate retaining screws

(arrowed)

22.4  Tap out the door check strap

retaining roll pin (arrowed)

11

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Link rod clip
2 Link rod
3 Trunnion
4 Lock retaining

screws

5 Lock
6 Control rod
7 Link rod
8 Wiring

multiplug

9 Central locking

motor

4 Undo the three screws securing the lock
assembly to the door.
5 Lower the lock assembly, and release the
interior handle control rod and locking button
rod from the lock levers.
6 Disconnect the central locking motor wiring
multiplug, and manipulate the lock assembly
from the door.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Coupe models

Removal

8 Remove the front door cassette assembly
as described in Section 29.
9 Carefully prise out the door lock link rod
and control rod from their attachments at the
private lock lever and exterior handle lever
respectively.
10 Undo the screw securing the interior lock
button control rod bellcrank.
11 Withdraw the bellcrank from the door, and
disconnect the door lock control rod.
12 Release the cable tie from the central
locking motor wiring harness and disconnect
the harness multiplug.
13 Undo the three screws securing the lock
assembly to the door.
14 Withdraw the lock assembly, and
disconnect the interior handle control cable
from the lock. Release the cable from the lock
shield and remove the lock assembly.

Refitting

15 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

24 Front door private lock -

removal and refitting

1

Saloon and Fastback models

Removal

1 Remove the front door inner trim panel as
described in Section 21.
2 Release the masking tape and carefully
peel back the polythene condensation barrier
as necessary for access to the door lock area.
3 Extract the circlip from the end of the lock
barrel, and remove the washer, plate and
operating lever (see illustration).
4 Where applicable, release the wiring
harness retaining clip and disconnect the
harness multiplug.
5 Extract the private lock retaining wire clip,
and withdraw the lock from the outside of the
door.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Coupe models

Removal

7 Remove the front door cassette assembly
as described in Section 29.

8 Carefully prise out the door lock link rod
from the private lock lever.
9 Release the wiring harness from the clip at
the bottom of the door, then disconnect the
multiplug at the harness connector.
10 Extract the private lock retaining clip and
remove the lock from the door handle.

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

25 Front door exterior handle -

removal and refitting

1

Saloon and Fastback models

Removal

1 Remove the front door private lock as
described in Section 24.
2 Carefully prise out the door lock control rod
from the exterior handle lever.
3 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove
the handle from the outside of the door (see
illustration).

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Coupe models

Removal

5 Remove the front door cassette assembly
as described in Section 29.

6 Extract the private lock retaining clip and
remove the lock from the door handle.
7 Carefully prise out the door lock control rod
from the exterior handle lever.
8 Remove the blanking plug on the inside of
the door for access to the outer retaining bolt.
9 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove
the handle from outside of the door. Collect
the two rubber washers as the handle is
removed.

Refitting

10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

26 Front door interior handle -

removal and refitting

1

Pre-1992 model year

Removal

1 Remove the front door inner trim panel as
described in Section 21.
2 Remove the foam pad from the handle (see
illustration).
3 Where applicable, undo the screws
securing the handle to the door panel.
4 Lift the locking tab at the front of the handle
body, slide the handle rearwards and
withdraw it from the door (see illustration).
5 Disconnect the operating rod and remove
the handle.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

11•12 Bodywork and fittings

26.4  Withdraw the handle from the door

26.2  Remove the foam pad from the

interior handle

25.3  Front door exterior handle retaining

bolts (arrowed)

24.3  Lock barrel operating lever retaining

circlip (A) and private lock retaining wire

clip (B)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1992 model year onwards

Removal

7 Remove the front door inner trim panel as
described in Section 21.
8 Undo the four screws securing the handle
to the door panel.
9 Slide the handle forward and withdraw it
from the door.
10 Disconnect the disconnect the interior
handle control rod or cable and remove the
handle.

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

27 Front door window glass -

removal and refitting

5

Saloon and Fastback models

Removal

1 Remove the front door inner trim panel as
described in Section 21.
2 Using a screwdriver and protective rag,
carefully prise up the waist seal from the
upper edge of the door panel to release the
retaining clips (see illustrations).
3 Remove the front door main speaker,
referring to Chapter 12 if necessary.
4 Where fitted, undo the three screws and

remove the trim panel support bracket.
5 Release the masking tape securing the
wiring loom and loom connectors to the door
panel.
6 Release the wiring loom retaining clips and
ease the loom away from the door (see
illustrations).
7 Undo the three screws securing the relay
mounting plate, then move the plate and
relays aside (see illustration).
8 Carefully peel back the condensation
barrier, and pull it downwards to provide
access inside the door.
9 Lower the window until the two glass-to-
lifting member retaining bolts are accessible
through one of the door apertures.
10 Undo the two bolts securing the door
glass to the lifting member, and lift the glass
up and out of the door (see illustration).

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure
that the condensation barrier is refitted
securely over the entire door panel face, and
position the waist seal retaining clips in the
waist seal before refitting the seal to the door
(see illustration).

Coupe models

Removal

12 Open the window half way, then remove
the front door cassette assembly as
described in Section 29.

13 With the cassette assembly on the bench
with the glass side upwards, undo the Torx
screws and remove the two glass clamping
plates (see illustration).
14 Remove the clamping plate plastic shims.
15 Carefully lift the window glass off the
lifting plates and remove the plastic shims. If
the plastic shims have metal spacers
attached, ensure that the plastic shims and
metal spacers remain together with their
respective clamping plates.

Refitting

16 Refit the door glass to the cassette
assembly using a reversal of removal.
17 With the help of an assistant, lift up the
cassette assembly and hold it in a vertical
position. Using a slave battery, fused switch

Bodywork and fittings  11•13

27.6a  Release the wiring loom retaining

clips . . .

27.6b  . . . and ease the loom away from

the door

27.2b  . . . and release the retaining clips

27.2a  Prise up the door panel waist 

seal . . .

27.11  Position the waist seal retaining

clips in the waist seal before refitting the

seal to the door

27.10  Lift the glass up and out of the door

27.7  Undo the three screws and move the

relay plate and relays aside

11

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

and wiring, connect the window lift 
motor to the battery and close the window
fully.
18 With the window closed, check that the
front edge of the glass and the cheater panel
are flush, forming a smooth curve (see
illustration 27.13). If this is not the case, it will
be necessary to obtain additional metal
spacers and position these behind the top or
bottom of the front lifting plate shims as
necessary, on a trial and error basis.
19 Once the initial adjustment is correct, refit
the cassette assembly as described in
Section 29.

28 Front door window lift motor

- removal and refitting

2

Removal

1 Remove the front door window glass as
described in Section 27.
2 Disconnect the motor wiring multiplug.
3 Undo the two lower bolts and one 
upper bolt securing the lifting channel to the
door.
4 Undo the three motor-to-door securing
nuts, and manipulate the motor and lifting
channel through the lower aperture (see
illustrations).

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

29 Front door cassette

assembly (Coupe models) -
removal and refitting

5

Note: Once the door cassette assembly is
disturbed, it will be necessary to carry out an
elaborate adjustment procedure after refitting,
to ensure that a leak, noise and draught free
seal is obtained when the window glass is
closed. This adjustment entails the use of
Rover special tools and gauges and can only
be successfully carried out by a suitably
equipped dealer.

Removal

1 Remove the door inner trim panel as
described in Section 21.
2 Remove the door mirror as described in
Section 31.

3 Remove the door speaker, referring to
Chapter 12 if necessary.
4 Undo the three screws and remove the
inner trim panel attachment bracket.
5 Carefully prise out the clips securing the
wiring multiplugs to the door.
6 Release the two clips and remove the
plastic condensation barrier.
7 Undo the three screws and release the
interior handle from the door.
8 Release the window lift motor wiring
multiplug from the door clip and disconnect it.
9 Undo the three nuts and release the
window lift motor studs from the door.
10 Undo the two bolts securing the lower
edge of the cassette assembly to the door.
11 At the top, undo the three bolts at the
front, and two at the rear securing the
cassette assembly to the door.
12 With the help of an assistant, carefully lift
the cassette assembly out of the door. Take
care not to lift or support the cassette
assembly using the cheater panel in front of
the window glass as this may cause the panel
to move out of alignment.

Refitting

13 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but have
the cassette assembly and door glass
accurately adjusted by a Rover dealer on
completion.

30 Front door window cable and

drum assembly (Coupe
models) - removal and refitting

2

Removal

1 Remove the door window glass as
described in Section 27.
2 At the bottom front corner of the cassette
assembly, note the fitted position of the outer
cable retainer in the support bracket. Turn the
retainer through 90º to release it from the
bracket.
3 Bend the guide tabs away from the lower
front pulley and slip the cable off the pulley.
4 Release the lifting plate from the front
runner.
5 Release the cable from the front upper
pulley.

11•14 Bodywork and fittings

28.4b  . . . and remove the motor from the

door

28.4a  Undo the three window lift motor

retaining nuts (arrowed) . . .

27.13  Front door glass attachment details on Coupe models

1 Clamping plate retaining

screws

2 Clamping plates
3 Clamping plate plastic

shims

4 Door glass
5 Lifting plate plastic 

shims

6 Lifting plate plastic shim

metal spacers (where fitted)

Inset shows correct and
incorrect door glass-to-
cheater panel adjustment

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

6 At the top rear corner of the cassette
assembly, note the fitted position of the outer
cable retainer in the support bracket. Turn the
retainer through 90º to release it from the
bracket.
7 Bend the guide tab away from the lower
rear pulley and slip the cable off both rear
pulleys.
8 Release the outer cable from the clip.
9 Detach the cable ends from the glass rear
lifting plate.
10 Mark the position of the cable exit points
on the cable drum cover plate, then undo the
screws and lift off the plate.
11 Taking care not to allow the cable to
become detached from the drum, lift the cable
and drum assembly out of the cassette
assembly.

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal bearing
in mind the following points.
(a) Lubricate the pulleys with Molykote PG65

prior to refitting.

(b) Refit the outer cable retainers to the same

positions in the support brackets as noted
during removal.

(c) Ensure that the diagonal cable run is

positioned over the outer cable and motor
assembly, between the inner cable and
the window glass.

31 Front door mirror - 

removal and refitting

1

Manually controlled mirror

Removal

1 Remove the front door inner trim panel as
described in Section 21.
2 Carefully prise off the triangular trim panel
from the upper corner of the door.
3 Undo the three mirror retaining screws,
release the cables from their retaining strap
inside the door, and remove the mirror and
cables from the door.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Electrically controlled mirror

Removal

5 Remove the front door inner trim panel as
described in Section 21.
6 Carefully prise off the triangular trim panel
from the upper corner of the door (see
illustration).
7 Peel back the condensation barrier as
necessary to gain access to the mirror wiring
multiplugs, then disconnect them.
8 Undo the three mirror retaining screws and
withdraw the mirror from the door.

Refitting

9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

32 Rear door inner trim panel -

removal and refitting

1

Note: Many of the attachment points and
component fittings are similar to those of the
front door inner trim panel. Refer to Sec-
tion 21 for useful photographic details.

Models with electrically
operated rear windows

Removal

1 Insert a small screwdriver or similar tool into
the slot at the rear of the interior locking
button, and prise apart the outer moulded half
of the locking button. Lift off the outer half,
then remove the inner half from the locking
rod.
2 Prise out the door inner handle centre
finisher trim, and undo the two screws
securing the trim surround to the door.
3 Pull the door handle outwards, and
manipulate the trim surround off the handle
and door panel.
4 Carefully prise out the blanking plate or
interior light from the bottom of the panel. If
applicable, disconnect the wiring and remove
the light.
5 Lift off the plastic caps and undo the two
screws around the lower rear portion of the
panel.
6 Working through the blanking plate or
interior light aperture, undo the screw in the
recess.
7 Undo the screw at the top of the door pull
below the interior handle.
8 Using a flat tool or your fingers, release the
studs securing the panel to the door by
prising the panel out, or sharply pulling it out,
in the vicinity of each stud. Lift the panel
upwards and withdraw it from the door.
9 Disconnect the wiring multiplug at the rear
of the window lift switch and remove the
panel.

Refitting

10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Models with manually operated
rear windows

Removal

11 Insert a small screwdriver into the slot at
the rear of the interior locking button, and
prise apart the outer moulded half of the
locking button. Lift off the outer half, then
remove the inner half from the locking rod.
12 Prise out the door inner handle centre
finisher trim, and undo the two screws
securing the trim surround to the door.
13 Pull the door handle outwards, and
manipulate the trim surround off the handle
and door panel.
14 Push in the escutcheon behind the
window regulator handle, extract the handle
retaining clip and withdraw the handle from
the spindle.
15 Undo the screw from the bottom of the
door pull finger grip, and remove the finger
grip from the panel.
16 Lift off the plastic caps and undo the two
screws around the lower rear portion of the
panel.
17 Using a flat tool or your fingers, release
the studs securing the panel to the door by
prising the panel out, or sharply pulling it out,
in the vicinity of each stud. Lift the panel
upwards and withdraw it from the door.

Refitting

18 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Locate
the regulator handle retaining clip in the
handle groove before fitting the handle to the
door.

33 Rear door - removal, refitting

and adjustment

The procedure for the rear door is virtually

identical to that for the front door, and
reference should be made to Section 22.

34 Rear door exterior handle -

removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Remove the rear door inner trim panel as
described in Section 32.
2 Release the masking tape and carefully
peel back the polythene condensation barrier
as necessary for access to the door lock area.
3 Remove the access plug from the rear of
the door.
4 Undo the screw securing the interior lock
button control rod bellcrank.
5 Withdraw the bellcrank from the door, and
disconnect the door lock control rod.
6 Undo the bolt securing the rear glass
channel to the door, and remove the glass
channel.
7 Undo the three screws securing the door
lock to the rear face of the door.

Bodywork and fittings  11•15

1 Trim panel
2 Retaining screws

3 Mirror
4 Wiring multiplugs

31.6  Electrically controlled front door

mirror attachments

11

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

8 Release the door lock control rod from the
plastic guide on the inner face of the door.
9 Move the door lock aside, and undo the
bolts securing the exterior handle to the door.
10 Withdraw the exterior handle, release the
collar and remove the control rod from the
exterior handle lever.
11 Remove the exterior handle from the 
door.

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

35 Rear door lock - 

removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Remove the rear door exterior handle as
described in Section 34.
2 Release the door inner handle control rod
from its plastic guide on the inner face of the
door (see illustration).
3 Carefully prise out the two control rods
from their respective levers on the door lock.
4 Disconnect the central locking motor wiring
multiplug, and manipulate the lock assembly
from the door.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

36 Rear door interior handle -

removal and refitting

The procedure for the rear door is virtually

identical to that for the front door, and
reference should be made to Section 26.

37 Rear door window glass -

removal and refitting

The procedure for the rear door is virtually

identical to that for the front door, and
reference should be made to Section 27.

38 Rear door window lift motor

- removal and refitting

The procedure for the rear door is virtually

identical to that for the front door, and
reference should be made to Section 28.

39 Rear door window lift

manual regulator - 
removal and refitting

The procedure is virtually identical to that

for the front door with electric lift motor,
except that the regulator is secured to the

door with two bolts, and there are no wiring
multiplugs to disconnect. The complete
procedure is covered in Section 28.

40 Rear quarter light glass

(Coupe models) - 
removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Remove the rear seat cushion and squab as
described in Section 43.
2 Carefully ease the door weatherstrip away
from the door pillar in the vicinity of the lower
trim panel.
3 Lift off the plastic caps and undo the lower
trim panel retaining screw at the upper front
edge of the panel. Repeat this procedure with
the remaining three screws, two at the bottom
and one at the upper rear of the panel.
4 Using a flat tool or your fingers, release the
six studs securing the lower trim panel to the
body by prising the panel out, or sharply
pulling it out, in the vicinity of each stud. Lift
away the panel.
5 Prise off the cap and undo the seat belt
upper anchorage bolt.
6 Undo the three lower screws securing the
upper trim panel to the body.
7 Using the same procedure as for the lower
trim panel, release the ten panel retaining
studs and remove the panel from the car.
8 Undo the eight nuts securing the quarter
light glass in position and carefully ease the
glass from the body aperture.

Refitting

9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but clean
the aperture and the glass thoroughly prior to
refitting.

41 Bumpers - 

removal and refitting

1

Front bumper

Removal

1 Refer to Chapter 12 and remove the
headlight lens units, and where fitted, the
headlight washer jets.
2 On pre-1992 model year vehicles, remove
the radiator grille as described in Section 19.
3 Undo the bolt and two screws securing the
access panels below the front of each
wheelarch. Remove both panels (see
illustration).
4 Where fitted, disconnect the wiring
multiplugs from the driving lights.
5 Where fitted, undo the retaining screw and
move the ambient air temperature sensor to
one side.
6 Undo the two nuts securing the bumper
moulding to the frame at the front. Withdraw
the washers and clamp plates.
7 Release the wheelarch liners from the

11•16 Bodywork and fittings

35.2  Rear door lock attachments

1 Control rod and guide
2 Control rod attachments
3 Wiring multiplug

4 Lock retaining screws
5 Door lock

6 Central locking motor

retaining screws

7 Central locking motor

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

bumper moulding, and release the moulding
from the side retaining clips.
8 Withdraw the moulding from the bumper.
9 Where fitted, release the washer pipe clips
and studs, and disconnect the wiring
multiplug.
10 On later models, prise out the two radiator
baffle retaining studs.
11 Undo the bolt securing the dim-dip
resistor bracket (where fitted).
12 Undo the two bolts securing the centre
support member to the bumper.
13 Undo the two end bolts securing the
bumper to the frame and remove the bumper.

Refitting

14 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Rear bumper

Removal

15 Remove the trim from the rear of the
luggage compartment.
16 Undo the screws and remove the two
wheelarch liners (see illustration).
17 Withdraw the grommets from the rear face
of the luggage compartment, and undo the two
bumper moulding retaining nuts and washers.
18 Release the moulding from the side
retaining clips, and withdraw the moulding
from the bumper.
19 Where fitted, remove the plastic cover
over the rear towing eye.
20 Withdraw the grommets, and undo the
two bolts each side securing the bumper to
the frame.
21 Remove the bumper from the car.

Refitting

22 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

42 Front seats - 

removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Where a lumbar support switch panel is
fitted to the side of the seat, carefully prise up
the front of the switch panel, disconnect the
wiring connectors and remove the panel.
2 On early models, prise off the trim caps, and
undo the two screws securing the trim panel
below the seat base. Remove the trim panel.
3 Undo the bolt securing the seat belt at the
base of the seat.
4 Undo the four bolts securing the seat
runners.
5 Undo the bolt securing the seat belt stalk,
and remove the stalk.
6 Disconnect the seat control multiplugs and
release the wiring harness from the cable ties.
7 Withdraw the seat from the car.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure
that all wiring harnesses are secured with
cable ties well clear of the seat control
components and runners.

Bodywork and fittings  11•17

41.3  Front bumper components - early models shown, later models similar

1 Access panel retaining bolt
2 Access panel retaining

screws

3 Access panel
4 Bumper moulding clamp

5 Bumper moulding side

clips

6 Bumper moulding
7 Stud
8 Wiring multiplug

9 Centre support member

bolts

10 Bumper retaining bolts
11 Bumper mounting

11

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

41.16  Rear bumper components - early

models shown, later models similar

1 Wheelarch liner screws
2 Wheelarch liner
3 Bumper moulding 

nuts and grommets

4 Bumper moulding 

retaining bolts

5 Bumper moulding 

retaining clips

6 Bumper moulding
7 Towing eye cover
8 Bumper mounting 

nuts and grommets

9 Bumper mounting

43 Rear seats - 

removal and refitting

1

Saloon models

Removal - bench type seat (pre-1992
model year)

1 Push the seat base rearwards, and at the
same time lift it up to release the two
retainers. Remove the seat base from the car.
2 Undo the four bolts at the base of the seat
squab.
3 Release the two seat belts from the
retainers.
4 Slide the squab downwards and forwards
to release the rear locating pegs, then remove
the squab from the car.

Removal - bench type seat (1992
model year onwards)

5 Push the seat base rearwards, and at the
same time lift it up to release the two
retainers. Remove the seat base from the car.
6 Undo the bolt at the base of each side
cushion extension, lift the cushion extensions
upwards to release the rear wire retainers, and
remove the side cushions.
7 Operate the release levers and tip the two
seat squabs forward.
8 Undo the two bolts securing the hinge
brackets at the ends of each squab.
9 Release the seat belt stalks and remove the
squabs from the car.

Removal - individual type seat

10 Lift up the seat base to disengage the
floor clips and remove the base.
11 Undo the four nuts securing the seat pan
to the floor. Slide the pan sideways to
disengage the squab guides and remove the
pan.
12 Slide the seat squab downwards and
forwards to disengage the rear upper
retainers and remove the squab from the car.

Refitting - all seat types

13 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Fastback models

14 Refer to the above procedure for the
bench type seat (1992 model year onwards).

Coupe models

Removal

15 Push the seat base rearwards, and at the
same time lift it up to release the two
retainers. Remove the seat base from the car.
16 From inside the luggage compartment,
undo the three seat squab upper retaining
bolts.
17 Undo the four lower retaining bolts at the
base of the squab.
18 Release the seat belt buckles from their
location pockets and remove the seat squab
from the car.

Refitting

19 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

44 Rear seat squab release

lever and cable - 
removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Remove the luggage compartment light
from the release lever surround.
2 Undo the screw in the light aperture, move
the release lever surround forwards and
outwards, then disengage the two rear
locating lugs (see illustrations).
3 Extract the outer cable retaining clip at the
rear of the lever surround (see illustration).
4 Disengage the inner cable from the release
lever, and remove the lever and surround
assembly.
5 Extract the outer cable retaining clip at the
squab locking mechanism (see illustration).
6 Disengage the inner cable from the lever,
and remove the cable from the car.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

45 Seat belts - 

removal and refitting

1

Front seat belts - Saloon and
Fastback models

Removal

1 Remove the front seat as described in
Section 42.

2 Remove the trim cap over the top
anchorage, undo the retaining bolt and
recover the spacer and fibre washer.
3 Ease the weatherstrip away from both sides
of the centre door pillar.
4 Carefully prise off the upper trim from the
centre door pillar.
5 Undo the two screws, nearest the centre
door pillar, from the front and rear carpet
retainer plates.
6 Lift the ends of the carpet retainer plates
and carefully prise off the lower trim from the
centre door pillar.
7 Undo the retaining screw from the seat belt
guide and remove the guide.
8 Undo the bolt at the seat belt anchorage.
9 Undo the bolt at the base of the inertia reel,
and remove the seat belt components.
10 Undo the bolt securing the seat belt stalk
to the seat, and remove the stalk.

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Front seat belts - Coupe models

Removal

12 Remove the front seat as described in
Section 42.
13 Remove the trim cap over the top
anchorage, undo the retaining bolt and
recover the spacer and fibre washer.
14 Carefully ease the door weatherstrip away
from the door pillar in the vicinity of the lower
trim panel.
15 Lift off the plastic caps and undo the
lower trim panel retaining screw at the upper

11•18 Bodywork and fittings

44.5  . . . and the clip at the locking

mechanism (arrowed)

44.3  Extract the outer cable retaining clip

(arrowed) at the lever surround . . .

44.2b  . . . and disengage the locating lugs

44.2a  Undo the release lever surround

retaining screw . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake