Rover 820, 825, 827. Repair Manual - part 5

specialising in exchange components. If the
camshaft appears sound, measure the journal
diameters using a micrometer (see
illustration).
19 The camshaft bearing bore diameters in
the cylinder head should be measured and
checked against the tolerances specified. A
gauge will be required for this but if not
available, check for excessive movement
between the camshaft journals and the
bearings. Alternatively, the Plastigage
method, described in Part C of this Chapter,
for main and big-end bearing running
clearance checks, can be used. If the
bearings are found to be unacceptably worn,
either a new camshaft or a new cylinder head
is the only answer as the bearings are
machined directly in the head.
20 It is seldom that the hydraulic tappets are
badly worn in the cylinder head bores but
again, if the tappets are scored, or the bores
are found to be worn beyond an acceptable
level, either the tappet(s) or the complete
cylinder head must be renewed. If any of the
tappets have been noisy in operation, or their
internal condition is suspect, perform a tappet
seating stroke check as described below.
21 If the contact surface of the cam lobes
show signs of depression or grooving, note
that they cannot be renovated by grinding as
the hardened surface will be removed and the
overall length of the tappet(s) will be reduced.
The self-adjustment point of the tappet will be
exceeded as a result, so that the valve
adjustment will be affected and they will then

be noisy in operation. Therefore, renewal of
the camshaft is the only remedy in this case.
22 Check the rocker arms for signs of
scoring on their contact faces and for any
visible signs of wear on the pushrods. Renew
any that are noticeably worn or damaged.

Tappet seating stroke check

23 Carry out this check if any of the tappets
have been noisy in operation, or their internal
condition is suspect.
24

Using a small drill bit that will just fit

through the hole in the end of the tappet,
immerse the tappet in a small container of
clean engine oil so that the tappet is
submerged. Insert the drill bit through the hole
in the tappet ball end and push the valve
inside the tappet in and out several times,
using a slow pumping action, to remove all air
from the tappet (see illustrations).
25 Remove the tappet from the container
and place it on the bench with the ball end
uppermost.
26 Mount a dial gauge and test stand over
the tappet with the dial gauge probe in
contact with the tappet ball end. Zero the
gauge.
27 Push the ball end down quickly by hand
and note the reading on the dial gauge. This is
the tappet seating stroke and, if it is outside
the maximum figure given in the
Specifications, renew the tappet.
28 After checking, the tappet must be
drained of oil so as to be fitted dry on
reassembly. 

Caution: On reassembly, do not fit a tappet
that is full of oil from the seating stroke
check, otherwise there is a possibility of
the valves being held open on initial
cranking.
29 Turn the tappet upside down and, using
the small drill bit, depress the internal valve to
drain the oil from the tappet (see illustration).
30 Repeat the above procedure on any other
suspect tappets.

Refitting

31 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
(a) Fill the tappet bores to oil path level

before fitting the tappets and do not
rotate them once in position (see
illustration).

V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures  2B•9

15.18  Measure the camshaft journal

diameters using a micrometer

15.16b  . . . and hydraulic tappets

15.16a  Lift out the rocker arms . . .

15.31a  Fill the tappet bores with oil before

fitting the tappets

15.24a  Using a small drill bit that will just fit
through the hole in the end of the tappet . . .

15.29  Depress the internal tappet valve to

drain the oil prior to installation

15.24b  . . . immerse the tappet in oil and

push the valve inside in and out to remove

all the air

2B

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

(b) Prime the tappet oil feeds in the cylinder

head with oil (see illustration).

(c) Apply RTV sealant to the ends of the

camshaft carrier before refitting (see
illustration).

(d) Use new gaskets on all joints and tighten

the retaining nuts and bolts to the
specified torque where given. Tighten the
oil gallery bolts in the sequence shown
(see illustration).

(e) Refit all components removed for access

as described in the relevant Sections and
Chapters of this manual.

16 Cylinder head - 

removal and refitting

4

Removal

1 Remove the inlet manifold as described in
Section 8.
2 Remove the camshaft and hydraulic
tappets on the side concerned as described in
Section 15.
3 Undo the flange bolts and remove the
exhaust front pipes from the exhaust
manifolds. Recover the flange gaskets.
4 Undo the bolts securing the coolant
connecting pipe. Disconnect the temperature
sensor wiring multiplug, move the wiring
harness aside and remove the connecting
pipe. Recover the sealing O-rings from 
the pipe.
5 If removing the front cylinder head,

disconnect the camshaft sensor wiring
multiplug (where fitted).
6 If not already removed, remove the push
rods from their locations and place them in a
marked box to indicate their respective
cylinders.
7 Progressively slacken the cylinder head
retaining bolts a third of a turn at a time, in the
sequence shown until all are slack, then
remove the bolts (see illustration).
8 Lift the cylinder head off the locating
dowels and remove it from the engine. If the
head is stuck, it can be carefully levered up
using a large screwdriver between the
cylinder block and the protruding cylinder
head flanges. Do not insert the screwdriver
under the head-to-block mating face. Place
the head on blocks on the bench to protect
the valves.
9 Remove the cylinder head gasket from the
block.
10 Prior to refitting, ensure that the cylinder
block and head mating faces are thoroughly
clean and dry, with all traces of old gasket
removed. Clean the threads of the retaining
bolts, and remove any oil, water and thread
sealer from the bolt holes.

Refitting

11 Locate a new gasket over the dowels on
the cylinder block.
12 Lower the cylinder head assembly onto the
gasket, and refit the retaining bolts. Working in
the sequence shown, tighten the retaining bolts
to the specified torque (see illustration 16.7).
Note that the cylinder head bolt slackening and
tightening sequence are the same.
13 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of
removal but refer to the relevant Sections and
Chapters of this manual for adjustment
details.

17 Sump - 

removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the car and support it on axle stands.
3 Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter 1.
4 Remove the exhaust front pipe with
reference to Chapter 4, Part D.
5 Undo the bolts securing the longitudinal
support member to the underbody beneath
the engine, and remove the member.
6 Undo the six nuts and sixteen bolts
securing the sump to the crankcase.
7 Withdraw the sump from the crankcase,
tapping it from side to side with a hide or
plastic mallet if it is stuck. Recover the sump
gasket.
8 If the oil pick-up tube and strainer are to be
removed, undo the two bolts securing the
strainer bracket to the crankcase, and the two
bolts securing the pick-up tube flange to the
oil pump.
9 Remove the pick-up pipe and tube from the
crankcase. Recover the O-ring from the pick-
up pipe flange. Remove the baffle plate from
the cylinder block.
10 Clean the sump, and the mating faces of
both the sump and crankcase thoroughly.
11 If removed, clean the pick-up pipe, and
the filter gauze in the strainer.

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use a
new sump gasket and O-ring seal on the pick-
up pipe flange and tighten the sump retaining
nuts and bolts progressively to the specified
torque. Fill the engine with oil as described in
Chapter 1 on completion.

18 Oil cooler and filter head -

removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.

2B•10 V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures

16.7  Cylinder head bolt slackening and

tightening sequence

15.31d  Oil gallery retaining bolt tightening

sequence

15.31c  Apply RTV sealant to the ends of

the camshaft carrier (shown shaded)

before refitting

15.31b  Prime the tappet oil feeds in the

cylinder head with oil

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

H27532

H27533

H27534

2 Jack up the front of the car and support it
on axle stands.
3 Remove the right-hand front road wheel
and the access panel under the wheelarch.
4 Place a jack with interposed block of wood
under the sump and just take the weight of
the engine.
5 Undo the two right-hand engine mounting
retaining bolts.
6 Lower the jack slightly to provide access to
the oil cooler and filter head assembly from
under the wheelarch.
7 Undo the three bolts securing the assembly
to the front of the engine.
8 Withdraw the assembly from the engine,
and disconnect the oil pressure switch wiring
and the two coolant hoses (see illustration).
9 Recover the double O-ring seal from the
filter housing outlets on the engine (see
illustration).
10 With the assembly on the bench, undo the
centre bolt from the oil cooler and remove the
cooler from the filter head. Recover the O-
rings.

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
lubricate the O-rings prior to fitting. Fill the
cooling system and top-up the engine oil as
described in Chapter 1, on completion.

19 Oil pump - 

removal and refitting

4

Removal

1 Drain the engine oil as described in Chap-
ter 1.
2 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 12.
3 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and the
timing belt tensioner as described in Section
13.
4 Remove the timing belt inner guide from the
front of the crankshaft.
5 Unscrew the timing belt tensioner spring
anchorage stud from the oil pump housing.
6 Remove the oil cooler and filter head as
described in Section 18.

7 Support the engine from above using a
crane and chains or sturdy slings attached to
suitable anchorage points on the engine.
8 Remove the jack from under the sump
(from the previous operation) then remove the
sump and oil pick-up strainer as described in
Section 17.
9 Undo the retaining bolt and remove the
dipstick tube. Recover the O-ring.
10 Undo the two bolts from the oil feed tube
and remove the tube. Recover the O-rings.
11 Undo the nine oil pump housing retaining
bolts, noting the locations of the two longer
bolts (see illustration).
12 Release the pump housing from the
dowels and remove it from the engine.
13 Clean off all traces of sealant on the pump
housing and cylinder block mating faces prior
to reassembly.

Refitting

14 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Apply a
bead of RTV sealant to the housing mating
face, inside the line of bolt holes and tighten
the retaining bolts to the specified torque. Use
new O-rings on all components.

20 Crankshaft oil seals - 

renewal

4

Front oil seal

1 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 12.
2 Withdraw the sprocket from the crankshaft
together with the timing belt guide plate.
3 Remove the Woodruff key from the slot in
the crankshaft.
4 Note the fitted depth of the oil seal in
relation to the front of the housing as an aid to
refitting.
5 Punch or drill two small holes opposite
each other in the seal. Screw a self tapping
screw into each, and pull on the screws with
pliers to extract the seal.
6 Clean the seal location in the pump
housing, and clean off any burrs or raised
edges, which may have caused the seal to
fail.

7 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean
engine oil and carefully locate the seal over
the crankshaft and into the housing.
8 Using a tubular drift which bears on the
hard outer edge of the seal, drive the seal into
the housing to the previously noted depth.
9 Refit the Woodruff key to the crankshaft.
10 Refit the timing belt guide plate and
sprocket to the crankshaft.
11 Refit the timing belt as described in
Section 12.

Rear oil seal

12 Remove the flywheel/driveplate as
described in Section 22.
13 Punch or drill two small holes opposite
each other in the seal. Screw a self tapping
screw into each, and pull on the screws with
pliers to extract the seal.
14 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
15 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with
clean engine oil and carefully locate the seal
on the end of the crankshaft.
16 Using a large tubular drift bearing on the
hard outer edge of the seal, drive the seal into
the housing until it is flush with the housing
face.
17 Clean off any surplus oil then refit the
flywheel/driveplate as described in Sec-
tion 22.

21 Engine/transmission

mountings - inspection and
renewal

Refer to Part A, Section 18.

22 Flywheel/driveplate -

removal, inspection and
refitting

3

Removal

1 With the engine removed from the car and
separated from the transmission, or with the

V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures  2B•11

19.11  Oil pump housing location on the

front of the engine

18.9  Recover the double O-ring seal from

the filter housing outlets

18.8  Removing the oil cooler and filter

head assembly

2B

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

transmission removed as described in
Chapter 7, remove the clutch assembly
(manual transmission) as described in Chap-
ter 6.
2 Undo the eight flywheel/driveplate retaining
bolts. To prevent the flywheel turning, lock the
ring gear teeth using a small strip of angle iron
engaged in the teeth and against, or screwed
into, a transmission-to-engine retaining bolt
inserted into a vacant bolt hole.

3 Lift off the washer plate (automatic
transmission), then withdraw the flywheel/
driveplate from the crankshaft.

Inspection

4 Inspect the starter ring gear on the flywheel
or driveplate for wear or broken teeth. If
evident, the ring gear should be renewed. This
is a specialist operation and should be
entrusted to a Rover dealer.

5 The clutch friction surface on the flywheel
should be checked for grooving or cracks, the
latter being caused by overheating. If these
conditions are evident, renewal of the flywheel
is necessary.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, tightening
the bolts to the specified torque in a diagonal
and progressive sequence.

2B•12 V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

2C

4-cylinder engines

Cylinder head

Valve seat angle (inlet and exhaust)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45º

Valve seat width (inlet and exhaust)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.5 to 2.0 mm

Valves

Inlet

Exhaust

Valve stem diameter  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7.09 to 7.10 mm

7.07 to 7.09 mm

Valve head diameter  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

31.7 to 31.9 mm

29.2 to 29.4 mm

Valve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.04 to 0.06 mm

0.06 to 0.07 mm

Valve spring free length:

“M” series engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41.0 mm

“T” series engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

46.2 mm

Pistons and piston rings

Piston-to-cylinder bore clearance:

“M” series engines:

Top of skirt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.08 to 0.10 mm

Bottom of skirt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.04 to 0.05 mm

“T” series engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.01 to 0.03 mm

Piston ring end gap - installed:

“M” series engines:

Compression rings  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.30 to 0.50 mm

Oil control ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.25 to 0.50 mm

“T” series engines:

Top compression  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.25 to 0.35 mm

2nd compression  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.30 to 0.50 mm

Oil control  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.30 to 0.50 mm

Piston ring-to-groove clearance:

Top compression  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.06 to 0.09 mm

2nd compression  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.05 to 0.07 mm

Chapter 2  Part C: Engine removal 
and general engine overhaul procedures

Crankshaft - inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Crankshaft - refitting and main bearing running clearance check  . . 21
Crankshaft (4-cylinder engine) - removal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Crankshaft (V6 engine) - removal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Cylinder block/crankcase - cleaning and inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Cylinder head - reassembly  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Cylinder head (4-cylinder engine) - dismantling  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

Cylinder head and rocker gear (V6 engine) - dismantling  . . . . . . . . .

8

Cylinder head, rocker gear and valve assemblies - cleaning 

and inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

Engine - initial start-up after overhaul  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Engine overhaul - dismantling sequence  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

Engine overhaul - general information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Engine removal - methods and precautions  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

Engine/transmission (4-cylinder engine) - removal, separation 

and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

Engine/transmission (V6 engine) - removal, separation and refitting

5

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

Main and big-end bearings - inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Piston/connecting rod assemblies - inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Piston/connecting rod assemblies - refitting and big-end bearing 

running clearance check  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Piston/connecting rod assemblies (4-cylinder engine) - removal  . . . 11
Piston/connecting rod assemblies (V6 engine) - removal  . . . . . . . . . 12
Piston rings - refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

2C•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1

Cylinder block

Cylinder bore diameter  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

84.456 to 84.469 mm

Maximum cylinder bore taper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.15 mm

Maximum cylinder bore ovality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.15

Maximum gasket face distortion  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.10 mm

Crankshaft and bearings

Main bearing journal diameter  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

54.005 to 54.026 mm

Main bearing journal-to-shell running clearance  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.03 to 0.070 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal diameter  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

47.648 to 47.661 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal-to-shell running clearance  . . . . . . .

0.04 to 0.08 mm

Crankshaft endfloat  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.03 to 0.20 mm

Note: Refer to Part A of this Chapter for torque wrench settings.

V6 engines

Cylinder head

Valve seat angle (inlet and exhaust)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45º

Valve seat width (inlet and exhaust)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.0 mm maximum

Valves

Inlet

Exhaust

Valve stem diameter  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6.58 to 6.59 mm

6.55 to 6.58 mm

Valve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.16 mm maximum

0.22 mm maximum

Cylinder block

Cylinder bore diameter  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

87.00 to 87.02 mm

Maximum cylinder bore taper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.05 mm

Maximum cylinder bore ovality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.05 mm

Maximum gasket face distortion  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.10 mm

Pistons and piston rings

Piston-to-cylinder bore clearance  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.08 mm

Piston ring end gap:

Top compression  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.35 mm maximum

2nd compression  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.50 mm maximum

Oil control ring  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.70 mm maximum

Piston ring-to-groove clearance  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

No information available

Crankshaft and bearings

Main bearing journal-to-shell running clearance  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.24 to 0.048 mm

Main bearing journal taper and ovality  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.010 mm maximum

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal-to-shell running clearance  . . . . . . .

0.026 to 0.050 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal taper and ovality  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.010 mm maximum

Crankshaft endfloat  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.10 to 0.30 mm

Note: Refer to Part B of this Chapter for torque wrench settings.

2C•2 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1

General information

How to use this Chapter

This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to

engine/transmission removal and refitting, to
those repair procedures requiring the removal
of the engine/transmission from the vehicle,
and to the overhaul of engine components. It
includes only the Specifications relevant to
those procedures. Refer to Parts A and B for
additional Specifications, if required.

General information

The information ranges from advice

concerning preparation for an overhaul and
the purchase of replacement parts, to detailed
step-by-step procedures covering removal

and installation of internal engine components
and the inspection of parts.

The following Sections have been written

based on the assumption that the engine has
been removed from the vehicle. For
information concerning in-vehicle engine
repair, as well as removal and installation of
the external components necessary for the
overhaul, see Parts A and B of this Chapter
and Section 6 of this Part.

When overhauling the engine, it is essential

to establish first exactly what replacement
parts are available. On some of the engines
covered in this Chapter, components such as
the piston rings are not available separately
from the piston/connecting rod assemblies;
pistons, gudgeon pins and valve guides may
also not be available separately as may some
under- or oversized components. In some
cases, depending on the extent of engine
wear, it would appear that the easiest and

most economically-sensible course of action
is to replace a worn or damaged engine with
an exchange unit.

2

Engine overhaul - 
general information

It’s not always easy to determine when, or

if, an engine should be completely
overhauled, as a number of factors must be
considered.

High mileage is not necessarily an

indication that an overhaul is needed, while
low mileage doesn’t preclude the need for an
overhaul. Frequency of servicing is probably
the most important consideration. An engine
that’s had regular and frequent oil and filter
changes, as well as other required
maintenance, will most likely give many

thousands of miles of reliable service.
Conversely, a neglected engine may require
an overhaul very early in its life.

Excessive oil consumption is an indication

that piston rings, valve seals and/or valve
guides are in need of attention. Make sure
that oil leaks aren’t responsible before
deciding that the rings and/or guides are
worn. Perform a cylinder compression check
to determine the extent of the work required.

Loss of power, rough running, knocking or

metallic engine noises, excessive valve train
noise and high fuel consumption rates may
also point to the need for an overhaul,
especially if they’re all present at the same
time. If a full service doesn’t remedy the
situation, major mechanical work is the only
solution.

An engine overhaul involves restoring all

internal parts to the specification of a new
engine.  Note: Always check first what
replacement parts are available before
planning any overhaul operation; refer to
Section 1 of this Part. Rover dealers, or a
good engine reconditioning specialist/
automotive parts supplier may be able to
suggest alternatives which will enable you to
overcome the lack of replacement parts.

During an overhaul, it is usual to renew the

piston rings, and to rebore and/or hone the
cylinder bores; where the rebore is done by an
automotive machine shop, new oversize
pistons and rings will also be installed - all
these operations, of course, assume the
availability of replacement parts. The main
and big-end bearings are generally renewed
and, if necessary, the crankshaft may be
reground to restore the journals. Generally,
the valves are serviced as well, since they’re
usually in less-than-perfect condition at this
point. While the engine is being overhauled,
other components, such as the starter and
alternator, can be renewed as well, or rebuilt,
if the parts can be found. The end result
should be an as-new engine that will give
many trouble-free miles. Note: Critical cooling
system components such as the hoses,
drivebelt, thermostat and water pump MUST
be replaced with new parts when an engine is
overhauled. The radiator should be checked
carefully, to ensure that it isn’t clogged or
leaking (see Chapter 3). Also, as a general rule,
the oil pump should be renewed when an
engine is rebuilt.

Before beginning the engine overhaul, read

through the entire procedure to familiarise
yourself with the scope and requirements of
the job. Overhauling an engine isn’t difficult,
but it is time-consuming. Plan on the vehicle
being off the road for a minimum of two
weeks, especially if parts must be taken to an
automotive machine shop for repair or
reconditioning. Check on availability of parts,
and make sure that any necessary special
tools and equipment are obtained in advance.
Most work can be done with typical hand
tools, although a number of precision
measuring tools are required, for inspecting

parts to determine if they must be replaced.
Often, an automotive machine shop will
handle the inspection of parts, and will offer
advice concerning reconditioning and
replacement. 

Note: Always wait until the

engine has been completely dismantled, and
all components, especially the cylinder
block/crankcase, have been inspected, before
deciding what service and repair operations
must be performed by an automotive machine
shop. Since the block’s condition will be the
major factor to consider when determining
whether to overhaul the original engine or buy
a rebuilt one, never purchase parts or have
machine work done on other components
until the cylinder block/crankcase has been
thoroughly inspected. As a general rule, time
is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it
doesn’t pay to install worn or sub-standard
parts.

As a final note, to ensure maximum life and

minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine,
everything must be assembled with care, in a
spotlessly-clean environment.

3

Engine removal - 
methods and precautions

If you’ve decided that an engine must be

removed for overhaul or major repair work,
several preliminary steps should be taken.

Locating a suitable place to work is

extremely important. Adequate work space,
along with storage space for the vehicle, will
be needed. If a workshop or garage isn’t
available, at the very least, a flat, level, clean
work surface made of concrete or asphalt is
required.

Cleaning the engine compartment and

engine/transmission before beginning the
removal procedure will help keep tools clean
and organised.

An engine hoist or A-frame will be

necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated
in excess of the combined weight of the
engine and transmission. Safety is of primary
importance, considering the potential hazards
involved in removing the engine/transmission
from the vehicle.

If this is the first time you have removed an

engine, a helper should ideally be available.
Advice and aid from someone more
experienced would also be helpful. There are
many instances when one person cannot
simultaneously perform all of the operations
required when removing the
engine/transmission from the vehicle.

Plan the operation ahead of time. Arrange

for, or obtain, all of the tools and equipment
you’ll need prior to beginning the job. Some of
the equipment necessary to perform
engine/transmission removal and installation
safely and with relative ease, and which may
have to be hired or borrowed, includes (in
addition to the engine hoist) a heavy-duty

trolley jack, a strong pair of axle stands, some
wooden blocks, and an engine dolly (a low,
wheeled platform capable of taking the weight
of the engine/transmission, so that it can be
moved easily when on the ground). A
complete set of spanners and sockets (as
described in the front of this manual) will
obviously be needed, together with plenty of
rags and cleaning solvent for mopping-up
spilled oil, coolant and fuel. If the hoist is to be
hired, make sure that you arrange for it in
advance, and perform all of the operations
possible without it beforehand. This will save
you money and time.

Plan for the vehicle to be out of use for

quite a while. A machine shop will be required
to perform some of the work which the do-it-
yourselfer can’t accomplish without special
equipment. These establishments often have
a busy schedule, so it would be a good idea
to consult them before removing the engine,
to accurately estimate the amount of time
required to rebuild or repair components that
may need work.

Always be extremely careful when removing

and installing the engine/transmission.
Serious injury can result from careless
actions. By planning ahead and taking your
time, the job (although a major task) can be
accomplished successfully.

4

Engine/transmission 
(4-cylinder engine) - removal,
separation and refitting

3

Note: The engine can be removed from the
car only as a complete unit with the
transmission; the two are then separated for
overhaul. The engine/transmission are
removed upwards and out from the top of
engine compartment.

Removal

1 Extract the retaining clips and release the
support struts from the bonnet. Tie the bonnet
back in the fully-open position.
2 Drain the cooling system, the engine oil,
and the transmission oil or fluid as described
in Chapter 1.
3 Remove the complete air cleaner and intake
trunking assembly, as described in the
relevant Part of Chapter 4.
4 Remove the battery as described in
Chapter 5, then undo the three bolts and
remove the battery tray.
5 Undo the three bolts and remove the air
cleaner support bracket, located below the
battery tray.
6 On cars with single-point fuel injection,
undo the three ignition/fuel ECU mounting
bracket bolts, and move the ECU and bracket
aside.
7 Slacken the clips and remove the radiator
top hose, then disconnect the expansion tank
hose at the thermostat housing. On single-
point injection models, disconnect the two
heater outlet hoses at the inlet manifold.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures  2C•3

2C

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

8 Disconnect the remaining vacuum hose at
the inlet manifold.
9 Undo the bolt securing the engine rear tie-
bar support bracket to the inlet manifold (see
illustration).
10 Undo the two through-bolts securing the
engine rear tie-bar to the engine and body
brackets, and recover the special forked nut
(see illustration). Note that the forked end of
the nut engages with a bracket projection to
prevent the nut turning.
11 Withdraw the rear tie-bar from its
brackets, noting that it is stamped with the
word TOP on the upper face of the larger end,
which must be refitted accordingly.
12 Slacken the clips and disconnect the
radiator bottom hose at the radiator and main

coolant pipe, the bottom hose take-off at the
expansion tank pipe, the two heater hoses at
the heater matrix, and the heater outlet hose
at the inlet manifold or throttle housing (see
illustrations). On automatic transmission
models, disconnect the two coolant hoses at
the transmission oil cooler.
13 Place absorbent rags around the fuel filter
outlet banjo union bolt on the left-hand side of
the filter, then slowly unscrew the bleed screw
in the centre of the bolt, or the bolt itself as
applicable, to relieve the fuel system pressure.
When the pressure is released, remove the
bolt and recover the two copper washers.
Tighten the bleed screw where fitted.
14 Release the clip and disconnect the fuel
return hose from the pipe below the fuel filter.

Plug or tape over the disconnected fuel hoses
and unions.
15 Disconnect the accelerator cable at the
throttle end, as described in the relevant Part
of Chapter 4.
16 Undo the brake servo vacuum hose banjo
union bolt at the inlet manifold, and recover
the two copper washers.
17 On cars with single-point fuel injection,
disconnect the wiring multiplug from the
ignition/fuel ECU, and remove the relay from
its holder behind the ECU location (see
illustration).
18 Separate the engine wiring harness from
the main wiring harness by disconnecting the
large round wiring multiplug located behind
the battery. Additionally, on cars with single-
point fuel injection, disconnect the adjacent
large flat multiplug, and on cars with multi-
point fuel injection, the multiplugs at the rear
right-hand side of the engine compartment
(see illustrations).
19 Disconnect the two sensing leads at the
battery clamps, noting their locations, and
also the main positive lead to the starter
motor at the battery clamp.
20 Remove the cover from the fuse and relay
box on the left-hand side of the engine
compartment, then lift off the cover over the
fusible links.
21 Lift out the engine harness cable retaining
clip, undo the cable retaining screw, and
remove the cable from the fuse and relay box
(see illustrations).

2C•4 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

4.18c  Disconnect the appropriate multi-

plugs at the rear of the engine compartment

4.18b  . . . and the adjacent flat multiplug

4.18a  Disconnect the large round wiring

multiplug (arrowed) . . .

4.17  Remove the relay behind the

ignition/fuel ECU

4.12b  . . . and the heater hoses at the

heater matrix (arrowed)

4.12a  Disconnect the radiator hose

(arrowed) at the main coolant pipe . . .

4.10  Remove the tie-bar through-bolt (A)

and recover the forked nut (B)

4.9  Undo the bolt (arrowed) securing the

engine rear tie-bar support bracket to the

inlet manifold

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

22 Disconnect the HT and LT leads at the
ignition coil.
23 Disconnect the single cable at the starter
solenoid.
24 Undo the bolt and disconnect the earth
lead on the side of the transmission, then slide
up the rubber boot and disconnect the
reversing light switch wires (see illustration).
25 On automatic transmission models,
extract the spring clip and withdraw the steel
and rubber washers securing the selector
cable end to the transmission selector lever.
Undo the outer cable retaining nut at the
abutment bracket, release the inner and outer
cables, and recover the inner cable spacer.
26 Disconnect the speedometer transducer
cable at the wiring multiplug.
27 Check that all electrical connections
between the engine and the car main wiring
harness have been disconnected and moved
clear. The engine wiring harness stays in situ,
and is removed with the engine assembly.
28 Slacken the hose clips and disconnect the
two power steering hoses at the fluid reservoir
(see illustration). Plug the hoses and the
outlets immediately to reduce fluid loss.
29 Undo the two power steering pipe support
bracket bolts, and release the pipes from the
brackets (see illustration).
30 On cars with a rear-mounted power
steering pump, slacken the clip and disconnect
the power steering fluid return hose from the
pipe, then remove the pipe and hose assembly
clear of the engine (see illustration).

31 Jack up the front of the car and support it
on axle stands.
32 Refer to Chapter 4 if necessary, and
separate the exhaust front section at the
manifold or turbocharger, and at the
intermediate pipe flange joints. Remove the
exhaust front section from the car.
33 On manual transmission models, extract
the spring clip and withdraw the clevis pin
securing the clutch slave cylinder pushrod to
the release arm. Undo the two slave cylinder
retaining bolts and move the cylinder aside.
34 On manual transmission models, undo the
bolt in the centre of the transmission steady
rod. Remove the dished washer, slide off the
steady rod and remove the inner flat washer.
Remove the spring clip to expose the

gearchange rod-to-gearchange shaft retaining
roll pin. Using a parallel pin punch, tap out the
roll pin and slide the gearchange rod
rearwards off the shaft.
35 Undo the eight bolts and remove the
longitudinal support member from beneath
the engine (see illustration).
36 On cars with a front-mounted power
steering pump, undo the pipe union and
remove the fluid pipe from the rear of the
pump. Plug the unions to prevent fluid loss.
37 Undo the nut securing the right-hand
steering knuckle balljoint to the lower
suspension arm, then release the balljoint
from the arm using a universal balljoint
separator tool or two-legged puller.
38 Pull the steering knuckle outwards, then

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures  2C•5

4.21c  . . . and remove the cable from the

fuse and relay box

4.21b  . . . undo the cable retaining 

screw . . .

4.21a  Lift out the engine harness cable

retaining clip . . .

4.30  Disconnect the power steering fluid

return hose (arrowed)

4.24  Disconnect the transmission earth

lead (A) and the reversing light switch

wires (B)

4.29  Undo the power steering pipe

support bracket bolts

4.28  Disconnect the two power steering

hoses at the fluid reservoir

2C

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

4.35  Undo the bolts and remove the

longitudinal support member (arrowed)

using a flat bar or large screwdriver, lever
between the driveshaft inner constant velocity
joint and the differential housing to release the
joint.
39 Move the driveshaft clear, then repeat
these operations on the left-hand driveshaft.
40 Attach a hoist to the engine using rope
slings, or chains attached to brackets secured
to the cylinder head. Adjust the ropes or
chains so that the engine will hang at
approximately 30º to the horizontal, with the
timing belt end uppermost, when it is lifted
out.
41 On automatic transmission models, undo
the mounting bracket bolts and remove the
engine lower tie-bar from under the front of
the car, complete with mounting brackets.
42 Undo the right-hand engine mounting
through-bolt, and recover the special nut.
Note that the forked end of the nut plate
locates over a stud on the body bracket.
43 Undo the two bolts securing the engine
mounting to its mounting bracket, and remove
the mounting (see illustration).
44 Undo the two bolts securing the air
cleaner trunking support bracket to the front
chassis member, and remove the bracket
(see illustration).
45 Undo the nut securing the front engine
mounting to its transmission bracket (see
illustration).
46 Undo the nut securing the rear engine
mounting to its transmission bracket.
47 Raise the engine slightly, then on cars
with a rear-mounted power steering pump,

undo the power steering pipe union nut at the
rear of the pump, and remove the pipe. Plug
the unions to prevent loss of fluid.
48 Make a final check that everything
connecting the engine and transmission to the
car has been disconnected and moved well
clear.
49 Carefully lift the power unit upwards,
whilst moving and twisting it slightly to clear
the various projections (see illustration).
When the unit has been raised sufficiently,
draw the hoist forwards to bring the engine
unit over the front body panel, then lower it to
the floor.

Separation - manual
transmission models

50 With the engine/transmission removed
from the car, undo the starter motor retaining
bolts, and remove the unit from the clutch
housing.
51 Undo the three bolts and remove the
engine snubber bracket from the transmission
adaptor plate beneath the engine sump.
52 Undo the two bolts securing the front
engine mounting bracket to the transmission,
and remove the bracket.
53 Undo the bolts securing the rear engine
mounting bracket to the transmission, noting
the location of the crankshaft sensor bracket.
Move the sensor aside and remove the
bracket.
54 Undo all the remaining bolts securing the
transmission to the engine.
55 With the transmission well supported,
release the locating dowels and draw the unit
squarely away from the engine.

Separation - automatic
transmission models

56 With the engine/transmission removed
from the car, undo the starter motor retaining
bolts and remove the unit from the converter
housing.
57 Refer to Chapter 7, Part B and release the
kickdown cable from the engine.
58 Turn the crankshaft as necessary, using a
socket or spanner on the crankshaft pulley
bolt, until one of the torque converter retaining
bolts becomes accessible through the starter
motor aperture. Undo the bolt, turn the

crankshaft and remove the remaining two
bolts in the same way.
59 Undo the two bolts securing the front
engine mounting bracket to the transmission,
and remove the bracket.
60 Undo the bolts securing the rear engine
mounting bracket to the transmission, noting
the location of the crankshaft sensor bracket.
Move the sensor aside and remove the
bracket.
61 Undo the remaining bolts securing the
transmission to the engine.
62 With the transmission well supported,
release the locating dowels and draw the unit
squarely away from the engine. Ensure that
the torque converter stays in place on the
transmission.

Attachment - all models

63 Attachment is the straightforward reversal
of the separation sequence, but where
applicable, tighten all nuts and bolts to the
specified torque (Chapter 2, Part A). On
manual transmission models, smear the
gearbox mainshaft and release bearing face
with molybdenum disulphide grease before
attachment.

Refitting

64 Refitting is a straightforward reversal of
removal, bearing in mind the following points:
(a) Refit all the engine mounting bolts

loosely, then tighten them so as not to
place any under strain. Ensure that the
right-hand mounting bolt is positioned
centrally within the elongated slot in the
body bracket.

(b) Refill the cooling system as described in

Chapter 1.

(c) Refill the transmission as described in

Chapter 1.

(d) Fill the engine with oil as described in

Chapter 1.

(e) Refill and bleed the power steering

system as described in Chapter 10.

(f)

Adjust the accelerator cable as described
in the relevant Part of Chapter 4, and
where applicable, the automatic
transmission kickdown cable as described
in Chapter 7 Part B.

2C•6 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

4.49  Removing the engine and

transmission from the car

4.45  Undo the nut securing the front

engine mounting

4.44  Undo the bolts (arrowed) and remove

the air cleaner trunking support bracket

4.43  Remove the right-hand engine

mounting

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

5

Engine/transmission 
(V6 engine) - removal,
separation and refitting

3

Note: The engine can be removed from the
car only as a complete unit with the
transmission; the two are then separated for
overhaul. The engine/transmission are
removed upwards and out from the top of
engine compartment.

Removal

1 Extract the retaining clips and release the
support struts from the bonnet. Tie the bonnet
back in the fully-open position.
2 Drain the cooling system, the engine oil,
and the transmission oil or fluid as described
in Chapter 1.
3 Remove the complete air cleaner and intake
trunking assembly, as described in Chapter 4
Part D.
4 Remove the battery as described in
Chapter 5, then undo the three bolts and
remove the battery tray.
5 Refer to Chapter 3 and remove the radiator.
6 Disconnect the accelerator cable at the
throttle end (Chapter 4 Part D). Release the
cable from its support clips and move it clear.
7 Disconnect the HT lead at the ignition coil.
8 Undo the two through-bolts securing the
engine rear tie-bar to the engine and body
brackets, and recover the special forked nut.
Note that the forked end of the nut engages
with a bracket projection to prevent the nut
turning. Withdraw the tie-bar from its
brackets.
9 Undo the brake servo vacuum hose banjo
union bolt at the inlet manifold, and recover
the two copper washers.
10 Slacken the clips and disconnect the
coolant hoses at the thermostat housing (see
illustration). Disconnect the two heater hoses
from their connections on the side of the
engine. Disconnect any remaining coolant
hoses from the engine and move them clear.
11 Undo the bolt and disconnect the earth
lead on the front engine side cover.
12 Disconnect the multiplugs and release the
harness from the clips on and around the
dipstick tube.

13 Remove the cover from the fuse and relay
box on the left-hand side of the engine
compartment, then lift off the cover over the
fusible links.
14 Lift out the engine harness cable retaining
clip, undo the cable retaining screw, and
remove the cable from the fuse and relay box
(see illustrations).
15 Disconnect the two engine wiring harness
wiring multiplugs located in a bracket below
the battery tray.
16 Disconnect the battery lead at the starter
motor.
17 Disconnect the engine earth lead on the
transmission casing.
18 Check that all the vacuum hoses at the
pipe cluster are numbered with corresponding
numbers on their respective pipe stubs. Mark
any as necessary, then disconnect all the
hoses from the pipe cluster stubs.
19 Disconnect the cruise control vacuum
hose and release the hose from the engine
clips.
20 Check that all remaining vacuum hoses
likely to impede removal of the engine have
been removed.
21 Disconnect the hose at the charcoal
canister (where fitted).
22 Disconnect the hose at the diverter valve
(where fitted).
23 Place absorbent rags around the fuel filter
outlet banjo union bolt on the left-hand side of
the filter, then slowly unscrew the bleed screw
in the centre of the bolt, to relieve the fuel

system pressure. When the pressure is
released, remove the bolt and recover the two
copper washers. Tighten the bleed screw
where fitted.
24 Release the clip and disconnect the fuel
return hose from the pipe below the fuel filter
(see illustration). Plug or tape over the
disconnected fuel hoses and unions.
25 Separate the engine wiring harness from
the main wiring harness by disconnecting the
three large round wiring multiplugs located at
the rear right-hand side of the engine
compartment (see illustration). Release the
harness from the support bracket and move it
clear.
26 Wipe clean the area around the pipe and
hose unions on the top of the power steering
pump. Place absorbent rags around the
unions.
27 Undo the two bolts securing the high
pressure pipe connector, lift off the connector
and recover the O-ring.
28 Slacken the hose clip, then disconnect the
return hose from the pump. Plug or tape over
the disconnected unions to prevent dirt entry.
29 Release the hoses from the support
brackets and move them clear.
30 On cars equipped with air conditioning,
remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1, then remove the compressor from
the engine as described in Chapter 3. Don’t
disconnect any of the refrigerant pipes, just
release the mountings. Move the compressor
to one side.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures  2C•7

5.14b  . . . undo the screw, and remove the

cable from the fuse and relay box

5.14a  Lift out the engine harness cable

retaining clip . . .

5.10  Slacken the clips and disconnect the

coolant hoses at the thermostat housing

5.25  Disconnect the three wiring

multiplugs at the rear of the engine

compartment

5.24  Disconnect the fuel return hose from

the pipe below the fuel filter

2C

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

31 Undo the three expansion tank retaining
bolts and move the expansion tank to one
side.
32 Jack up the front of the car and support it
on axle stands. Remove the front roadwheels.
33 Undo the bolts and remove the access
panel under the right-hand wheelarch and the
undertray from beneath the wheelarch.
34 Undo the flange bolts and separate the
exhaust front pipes from the manifolds.
Collect the gaskets.
35 Remove the engine oil cooler and filter
head assembly as described in Part B,
Section 18.
36 Undo the retaining bolt and remove the
speedometer transducer assembly from the
rear of the transmission. Move the assembly
clear.
37 Undo and remove the nut from the rear
engine mounting.
38 Undo the nut securing the right-hand
steering knuckle balljoint to the lower
suspension arm, then release the balljoint
from the arm using a universal balljoint
separator tool or two-legged puller.
39 Pull the steering knuckle outwards, then
using a flat bar or large screwdriver, lever
between the driveshaft and intermediate
bearing assembly to release the joint.
40 Move the driveshaft clear, then repeat
these operations on the left-hand driveshaft,
but release it from the differential housing.
41 Attach a hoist using chains attached to
the engine and transmission lifting eyes. Raise
the hoist to just take the weight of the engine.
42 Undo the eight bolts and remove the
longitudinal support member from beneath
the engine.
43 On manual transmission models, undo the
two slave cylinder retaining bolts, collect the
pushrod and move the cylinder aside.
44 On manual transmission models, undo the
bolt in the centre of the transmission steady
rod. Remove the dished washer, slide off the
steady rod and remove the inner flat washer.
Remove the spring clip to expose the
gearchange rod-to-gearchange shaft retaining
roll pin. Using a parallel pin punch, tap out the
roll pin and slide the gearchange rod
rearwards off the shaft.
45 On automatic transmission models, refer
to Chapter 7, Part B and disconnect the
selector cable at the transmission end.
46 Undo the front engine mounting retaining
nut, then undo the three bolts and remove the
mounting bracket from the engine.
47 Undo the right-hand engine mounting
through-bolt, and recover the special nut.
Note that the forked end of the nut plate
locates over a stud on the body bracket.
48 Undo the two bolts securing the right-
hand engine mounting to the engine, and
remove the mounting.
49 Check that all electrical connections
between the engine and the car main wiring
harness have been disconnected and moved
clear. The engine wiring harness stays in situ,
and is removed with the engine assembly.

50 Make a final check that everything
connecting the engine and transmission to the
car has been disconnected and moved well
clear.
51 Support the engine on a jack with
interposed block of wood positioned under
the sump. take the weight of the
engine/transmission on the jack so that the
hoist can be lowered slightly. Reposition the
lifting chains so that the engine will adopt
approximately a 30º angle to the horizontal as
it is lifted out, with the timing belt end
uppermost.
52 Carefully lift the power unit upwards,
whilst moving and twisting it slightly to clear
the various projections (see illustration).
When the unit has been raised sufficiently,
draw the hoist forwards to bring the assembly
over the front body panel, then lower it to the
floor.

Separation - manual
transmission models

53 With the engine/transmission removed
from the car, undo the starter motor retaining
bolts, and remove the unit from the clutch
housing.
54 Undo the bolts and remove the engine
snubber bracket from the transmission
adaptor plate beneath the engine sump.
55 Undo the bolts securing the rear engine
mounting bracket to the transmission, and
remove the bracket.
56 Undo all the remaining bolts securing the
transmission to the engine.
57 With the transmission well supported,
release the locating dowels and draw the unit
squarely away from the engine.

Separation - automatic
transmission models

58 With the engine/transmission removed
from the car, undo the starter motor retaining
bolts and remove the unit from the converter
housing.
59 Refer to Chapter 7, Part B and release the
kickdown cable from the engine.
60 Turn the crankshaft as necessary, using a
socket or spanner on the crankshaft pulley
bolt, until one of the torque converter retaining
bolts becomes accessible through the
opening on the lower face of the torque

converter housing. Undo the bolt, then turn
the crankshaft and remove the remaining
bolts in the same way.
61 Undo the bolts securing the rear engine
mounting bracket to the transmission, and
remove the bracket.
62 Undo the remaining bolts securing the
transmission to the engine.
63 With the transmission well supported,
release the locating dowels and draw the unit
squarely away from the engine. Ensure that
the torque converter stays in place on the
transmission.

Attachment - all models

64 Attachment is the straightforward reversal
of the separation sequence, but where
applicable, tighten all nuts and bolts to the
specified torque (Chapter 2, Part A). On
manual transmission models, smear the
gearbox mainshaft and release bearing face
with molybdenum disulphide grease before
attachment.

Refitting

65 Refitting is a straightforward reversal of
removal, bearing in mind the following points:
(a) Refit all the engine mounting bolts

loosely, then tighten them so as not to
place any under strain. Ensure that the
right-hand mounting bolt is positioned
centrally within the elongated slot in the
body bracket.

(b) Refill the cooling system as described in

Chapter 1.

(c) Refill the transmission as described in

Chapter 1.

(d) Fill the engine with oil as described in

Chapter 1.

(e) Refill and bleed the power steering

system as described in Chapter 10.

(f)

Adjust the accelerator cable as described
in Chapter 4, Part D and where
applicable, the automatic transmission
kickdown cable as described in Chapter 7
Part B.

6

Engine overhaul - 
dismantling sequence

1 The engine dismantling and reassembly
tasks are made easier if the engine is
mounted on a portable engine stand which
can be hired.
2 If a stand is not available, it is possible to
dismantle the engine with it supported on a
strong workbench or on the floor. Be careful
not to tip or drop the engine when working
without a stand.
3 If a reconditioned engine is to be fitted, all
external components of the original engine
must be removed in order to transfer them to
the replacement unit (as they will if you are
doing a complete engine rebuild). These
components include the following, according
to engine type.

2C•8 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

5.52  Removing the engine and

transmission from the car

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

(a) Alternator and mounting brackets.
(b) Power steering pump and air conditioning

compressor.

(c) Distributor, HT leads and spark plugs.
(d) Thermostat and housing.
(e) Fuel injection system components.
(f)

Inlet and exhaust manifolds and
turbocharger.

(g) Oil filter and housing.
(h) Engine mountings.
(i)

Flywheel/driveplate.

(j)

Water pump.

(k) All associated pipes, hoses and brackets.
Note:

When removing the external

components from the engine, pay close
attention to details that may be helpful or
important during refitting. Note the fitting
positions of gaskets, seals, washers, bolts and
other small items.
4 If you are obtaining a short motor (which
consists of the engine cylinder block,
crankshaft, pistons and connecting rods all
assembled), the cylinder head(s), sump, oil
pump and timing belt will have to be removed
also.
5 If a complete overhaul is planned, the
engine can be dismantled and the internal
components removed in the following order.
(a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds.
(b) Timing belt, tensioner and sprockets.
(c) Cylinder head(s).
(d) Flywheel/driveplate.
(e) Sump.
(f)

Oil pump.

(g) Pistons (with connecting rods).
(h) Crankshaft.
6 Before starting the dismantling and
overhaul procedures, make sure that you have
all of the correct tools for the jobs to tackled.
Refer to the introductory pages at the start of
this manual for further information.

7

Cylinder head (4-cylinder
engine) - dismantling

4

Note: New and reconditioned cylinder heads
are often available from the manufacturers,
and from engine overhaul specialists. Due to
the fact that some specialist tools are required
for the dismantling and inspection
procedures, and new components may not be
readily available, it may be more practical and
economical for the home mechanic to
purchase a reconditioned head, rather than to
dismantle, inspect and recondition the original
head.
1 With the cylinder head on the bench,
remove the camshafts and tappets,
thermostat housing, inlet and exhaust
manifolds, and the spark plugs, referring to
the applicable Sections and Chapters of this
manual as necessary.
2 To remove the valves, compress each
spring in turn with a universal valve spring
compressor, until the two retaining collets can
be removed (see illustration).

3 Release the compressor, and lift off the
spring top cup, valve spring, oil seal, valve
spring seat and the valve (see illustrations).
4 It is essential that the valves are kept in
their correct order, unless they are so badly
worn or burnt that they are to be renewed. If
they are going to be refitted, place them in
their correct sequence, along with the
camshaft tappets removed previously. Also
keep the valve springs, cups, seats and
collets in the same order.

8

Cylinder head and rocker
gear (V6 engine) - dismantling

4

Note:

Refer to the introductory note

concerning reconditioned cylinder heads at
the beginning of Section 7.
1 With the cylinder head on the bench,
remove the camshafts and tappets, the
exhaust manifold, and the spark plugs,
referring to the applicable Sections and
Chapters of this manual as necessary.
2 If working on the front cylinder head, undo
the two bolts and remove the crank/angle
sensor (where fitted) (see illustration).
3 Unscrew the two blanking plugs from the
cylinder head and collect the sealing washers.
4 Screw a cylinder head bolt into the now
exposed transmission end of the rocker shaft
and pull the shaft out of the cylinder head.
5 As the shaft is removed, collect the rocker

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures  2C•9

7.3b  . . . valve spring . . .

7.3a  Release the compressor, and lift off

the spring top cup . . .

7.2  Compress the valve springs with a

universal valve spring compressor

7.3e  . . . and the valve

7.3d  . . . spring seat . . .

7.3c  . . . oil seal . . .

2C

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

arm spacer springs and the rocker arms, and
place them in their appropriate compartments
of the marked box that has all the hydraulic
tappets and slippers removed previously.
Alternatively use labelled plastic bags.
6 Undo the eight bolts securing the guide
plates and lift the guide plates off their
locating dowels.
7 To remove the valves, compress each
spring in turn with a universal valve spring
compressor, until the two retaining collets can
be removed.
8 Release the compressor, and lift off the
spring top cup, valve spring(s), oil seal, valve
spring seat and the valve.
9 It is essential that the valves are kept in
their correct order, unless they are so badly
worn or burnt that they are to be renewed. If
they are going to be refitted, place them in

their correct sequence, along with the tappets
and other parts removed previously. Also
keep the valve springs, cups, seats and
collets in the same order.

9

Cylinder head, rocker gear
and valve assemblies -
cleaning and inspection

4

Note: Always check first what replacement
parts are available before planning any
overhaul operation. A Rover dealer, or a good
engine reconditioning specialist/automotive
parts supplier, may be able to suggest
alternatives which will enable you to overcome
the lack of replacement parts.
1 Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head and
valve components, followed by a detailed

inspection, will enable you to decide how
much valve service work must be carried out
during the engine overhaul. Note: If the
engine has been severely overheated, it is best
to assume that the cylinder head is warped,
and to check carefully for signs of this.

Cleaning

2 Scrape away all traces of old gasket
material and sealing compound from the
cylinder head.
3 Scrape away the carbon from the
combustion chambers and ports, then wash
the cylinder head thoroughly with paraffin or
solvent.
4 Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits that
may have formed on the valves, then use a
power-operated wire brush to remove
deposits from the valve heads and stems.

Inspection

Note: Be sure to perform all the following
inspection procedures before concluding that
the services of a machine shop or engine
overhaul specialist are required. Make a list of
all items that require attention.

Cylinder head

5 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks,
evidence of coolant leakage, and damage. If
cracks are found, a new cylinder head should
be obtained.
6 Use a straight edge and feeler blade to
check that the head gasket surface is not
distorted. If it is, it may be possible to re-
surface it.
7 Examine the valve seats in each of the
combustion chambers. If they are severely
pitted, cracked or burned, then they will need
to be renewed or re-cut by an engine overhaul
specialist. If they are only slightly pitted, this
can be removed by grinding-in the valve
heads and seats with fine valve-grinding
compound, as described below.
8 If the valve guides are worn, indicated by a
side-to-side motion of the valve, new guides
must be fitted. Measure the diameter of the
existing valve stems (see below) and the bore
of the guides, then calculate the clearance,
and compare the result with the specified
value; if the clearance is excessive, renew the
valves or guides as necessary.
9 The renewal of valve guides is best carried
out by an engine overhaul specialist.
10 If the valve seats are to be re-cut, this
must be done only after the guides have been
renewed.

Valves

11 Examine the head of each valve for
pitting, burning, cracks and general wear, and
check the valve stem for scoring and wear
ridges. Rotate the valve, and check for any
obvious indication that it is bent. Look for pits
and excessive wear on the tip of each valve
stem. Renew any valve that shows any such
signs of wear or damage.
12 If the valve appears satisfactory at this
stage, measure the valve stem diameter at

2C•10 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

8.2  V6 engine cylinder head and rocker gear components

1 Exhaust manifold heat

shield bolt

2 Exhaust manifold heat

shield

3 Manifold nut
4 Exhaust manifold
5 Gasket
6 Crank/angle sensor bolts
7 Crank/angle sensor
8 Blanking plug and seal

9 Bolt for rocker shaft

removal

10 Rocker shaft
11 Spacer springs
12 Rocker arm
13 Guide plate bolts
14 Guide plates
16 Collets
18 Spring top cups
19 Valve springs
20 Valves

22 Oil seal
23 Spring seats
24 Blanking plugs
25 Oil restrictor
26 O-ring
27 Oil plug
28 O-ring
29 Blanking plugs
30 Spring
31 Relief valve

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

several points, using a micrometer (see
illustration). Any significant difference in the
readings obtained indicates wear of the valve
stem. Should any of these conditions be
apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed.
13 If the valves are in satisfactory condition,
they should be ground (lapped) into their
respective seats, to ensure a smooth gas-tight
seal. If the seat is only lightly pitted, or if it has
been re-cut, fine grinding compound only
should be used to produce the required finish.
Coarse valve-grinding compound should not be
used unless a seat is badly burned or deeply
pitted; if this is the case, the cylinder head and
valves should be inspected by an expert, to
decide whether seat re-cutting, or even the
renewal of the valve or seat insert, is required.
14 Valve grinding is carried out as follows.
Place the cylinder head upside-down on a
bench, with a block of wood at each end to
give clearance for the valve stems.
15 Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade
of) valve-grinding compound on the seat face,
and press a suction grinding tool onto the
valve head. With a semi-rotary action, grind
the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve
occasionally to redistribute the grinding
compound.

16 If coarse grinding compound is being
used, work only until a dull, matt even surface
is produced on both the valve seat and the
valve, then wipe off the used compound, and
repeat the process with fine compound. When
a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt
finish is produced on both the valve and seat,
the grinding operation is complete. Do not
grind in the valves any further than absolutely
necessary, or the seat will be prematurely
sunk into the cylinder head.
17 When all the valves have been ground-in,
carefully wash off all traces of grinding
compound, using paraffin or solvent, before
reassembly of the cylinder head.

Valve components and rocker gear

18 Examine the valve springs for signs of
damage and discolouration, and also measure

their free length by comparing each of the
existing springs with a new component.
19 Stand each spring on a flat surface, and
check it for squareness. If any of the springs
are damaged, distorted, or have lost their
tension, obtain a complete set of new springs.
20 Check the spring upper seats and collets
for obvious wear and cracks. Any
questionable parts should be renewed, as
extensive damage will occur if they fail during
engine operation. Any damaged or
excessively-worn parts must be renewed; the
valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals must be
renewed as a matter of course whenever they
are disturbed.
21 Check the rocker shaft on V6 engines for
straightness and for any obvious sign of
scoring where the rockers contact. Similarly
check the rocker bore and the fit of the rocker
on the shaft. Renew any suspect parts.

10 Cylinder head - 

reassembly

4

1 Before reassembling the cylinder head, first
ensure that it is perfectly clean and no traces
of grinding paste are left in the head or on the
valves and guides. Use compressed air, if
available, to blow out all the oil holes and
passages.
2 Commence reassembly of the cylinder
head by lubricating the valve stems and
guides with clean engine oil.
3 With the valves and valve seats prepared,
and with the valves in their correct order,
commence reassembly, starting with the first
valve of No 1 cylinder as follows.
4 Place the valve spring seat in position, then
fit a new oil seal over the valve guide, pushing
it fully into position.
5 Lubricate the valve stem with engine oil,
then insert the valve into its guide.
6 Fit the valve spring(s), and place the top
cup over the spring and valve.
7 Using the compressor tool, compress the
valve spring until the two collets can be slid
into position. Release the compressor
carefully, in order not to displace the collets.
8 Refit the remaining valves in the same way.
When they are all fitted, tap the end of each

valve stem with a plastic mallet to settle the
components.

11 Piston/connecting rod

assemblies (4-cylinder
engine) - removal

3

Note: Always check first what replacement
parts are available before planning any
overhaul operation. A Rover dealer, or a good
engine reconditioning specialist/automotive
parts supplier, may be able to suggest
alternatives which will enable you to overcome
the lack of replacement parts.
1 Remove the cylinder head, the sump, and
the oil pick-up pipe as described in Part A of
this Chapter.
2 Turn the crankshaft by means of the pulley
bolt, until No 1 and No 4 pistons are at the
bottom of their stroke.
3 Using a knife or scraper, clean the carbon
ridge from the top of the cylinder bore, to
facilitate removal of the piston.
4 Mark the No 1 cylinder connecting rod and
cap on their sides, using a centre-punch and
hammer, to indicate the cylinder the assembly
is fitted to, and also the fitted relationship of the
cap to the rod. Note: Any markings that may
appear on the rod and cap are often cylinder
bore size codes and not necessarily the
position of the assembly in the engine. Always
make your own marks to avoid confusion.
5 Undo the big-end cap nuts on No 1
connecting rod, then remove the cap,
complete with the lower bearing shell (see
illustration). If the cap is difficult to remove,
tap it from side to side with a plastic mallet.
6 Push the piston/connecting rod upwards
with the aid of the wooden handle of a
hammer or similar tool, then withdraw the
assembly from the top of the cylinder bore
(see illustration).
7 Refit the bearing cap and shell to the
connecting rod after removal.
8 Repeat paragraphs 3 to 7 for No 4
connecting rod.
9 Turn the crankshaft back through half a
turn, until No 2 and No 3 pistons are at the
bottom of their stroke.
10 Repeat paragraphs 3 to 7 for No 2 and 
No 3 connecting rods.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures  2C•11

11.6  Removing the piston and connecting

rod assembly

11.5  Removing the connecting rod cap

and big-end bearing shell

2C

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

9.12  Measuring the valve stem diameter

A light spring placed under
the valve head will greatly
ease the grinding operation.

12 Piston/connecting rod

assemblies (V6 engine) -
removal

3

The procedure is the same as described in

the previous Section for 4-cylinder engines,
but turn the crankshaft as necessary until
each pair of pistons are at the bottom of their
stroke and their connecting rod caps are
accessible. On later engines it will be
necessary to remove the oil baffle retaining
bolts and remove the baffle for access to the
crankshaft components. 

13 Crankshaft (4-cylinder

engine) - removal

3

Note: The crankshaft can be removed only
after the engine has been removed from the
vehicle. It is assumed that the transmission,
flywheel/driveplate, adaptor plate, timing belt,
cylinder head, sump, oil pump pick-
up/strainer, oil pump, and piston/connecting
rod assemblies, have already been removed.
1 Before the crankshaft is removed, check
the endfloat. Mount a DTI (Dial Test Indicator,
or dial gauge) with the stem in line with the
crankshaft and just touching the crankshaft.
2 Push the crankshaft fully away from the
gauge, and zero it. Next, lever the crankshaft
towards the gauge as far as possible, and
check the reading obtained. The distance that

the crankshaft moved is its endfloat; if it is
greater than specified, check the crankshaft
thrust surfaces for wear. If no wear is evident,
new thrustwashers should correct the
endfloat.
3 Feeler gauges can be used if no dial gauge
is available. Lever or push the crankshaft all
the way towards the right-hand end of the
engine. Slip feeler gauges between the
crankshaft and the main bearing incorporating
the thrustwashers to determine the clearance
(see illustration).
4 Withdraw the crankcase breather tube
elbow from the outside of the cylinder block
(see illustration).
5 From within the crankcase, remove the
crankcase breather extension tube (see
illustration). To do this, move the tube from
side to side to release the sealing compound,
then tap it out using a dowel rod inserted
through the elbow aperture.
6 Note that the main bearing caps have their
numbers cast on the face of each cap, and in
addition, Nos 2, 3 and 4 have arrows
indicating their fitted direction (see
illustration).
7 Undo the main bearing cap retaining bolts,
one turn at a time, then when all are slack,
remove the bolts.
8 Lift away each main bearing cap and the
bottom half of each bearing shell, taking care
to keep the bearing shell with the right cap. If
the caps are tight, tap them on their sides with
a plastic mallet to release them from the
locating dowels.

9 When removing the centre main bearing
cap, note the bottom semi-circular halves of
the thrustwashers, one located on each side
of the cap. Lay them, with the centre bearing
cap, along the correct side.
10 Lift out the crankshaft, followed by the
bearing shell upper halves and the
thrustwashers. Keep the bearing shells and
thrustwashers with their correct caps.

14 Crankshaft (V6 engine) -

removal

3

Note: The crankshaft can be removed only
after the engine has been removed from the
vehicle. It is assumed that the transmission,
flywheel/driveplate, rear oil seal carrier, timing
belt, cylinder head, sump, oil pump pick-
up/strainer, oil pump, and piston/connecting
rod assemblies, have already been removed.
1 Before removing the crankshaft, check the
endfloat as described in the previous Section.
2 Where fitted, undo the bolts and remove
the oil baffle from the bottom of the
crankcase. Undo the eight oil gallery retaining
bolts and lift the oil gallery off the main
bearing caps. Collect the four O-rings from
the base of the gallery (see illustration).
3 Using a hammer and centre punch, mark
the main bearing caps, 1 to 4 and make a
mark to indicate their fitted direction in the
crankcase.
4 Undo the main bearing cap retaining bolts,
two on the bottom and two on the side, one
turn at a time; when all are slack, remove the
bolts.
5 Screw in two oil gallery bolts into each main
bearing cap and pull up on the bolts to
withdraw the caps from their locations (see
illustration). Lift away each main bearing cap
and the bottom half of each bearing shell,
taking care to keep the bearing shell with the
right cap. Remove the oil gallery bolts after
removing the caps.
6 Lift out the crankshaft, followed by the
bearing shell upper halves and the two
thrustwashers from the No 4 journal location.
Keep the bearing shells and thrustwashers
with their correct caps.

15 Cylinder block/crankcase -

cleaning and inspection

3

Note: Always check first what replacement
parts are available before planning any
overhaul operation. A Rover dealer, or a good
engine reconditioning specialist/automotive
parts supplier may be able to suggest
alternatives which will enable you to overcome
the lack of replacement parts.

Cleaning

1 Prior to cleaning, remove all external
components and senders, and any gallery
plugs or caps that may be fitted.

2C•12 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

13.6  Main bearing cap identification

number and direction arrow

13.5  Remove the crankcase breather tube

extension tube

13.4  Withdraw the crankcase breather

tube elbow

13.3  Checking crankshaft endfloat using

feeler gauges

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake