Rover 820, 825, 827. Repair Manual - part 3

assembly should be maintained, not only to
avoid excessive tyre wear, but also to avoid
wear in the steering and suspension
components. Wheel imbalance is normally
signified by vibration through the vehicle’s
bodyshell, although in many cases it is
particularly noticeable through the steering
wheel. Conversely, it should be noted that
wear or damage in suspension or steering
components may cause excessive tyre wear.
Out-of-round or out-of-true tyres, damaged
wheels and wheel bearing wear/
maladjustment also fall into this category.
Balancing will not usually cure vibration
caused by such wear.
15 Wheel balancing may be carried out with
the wheel either on or off the vehicle. If
balanced on the vehicle, ensure that the
wheel-to-hub relationship is marked in some
way prior to subsequent wheel removal, so
that it may be refitted in its original position.

22 Driveshaft rubber gaiter and

CV joint check

1

1 The driveshaft rubber gaiters are very
important, because they prevent dirt, water
and foreign material from entering and
damaging the constant velocity (CV) joints.
External contamination can cause the gaiter
material to deteriorate prematurely, so it’s a
good idea to wash the gaiters with soap and
water occasionally.
2 With the vehicle raised and securely
supported on axle stands, turn the steering
onto full-lock, then slowly rotate each front
wheel in turn. Inspect the condition of the
outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber
gaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the
folds. Check for signs of cracking, splits, or
deterioration of the rubber, which may allow
the escape of grease, and lead to the ingress
of water and grit into the joint. Also check the
security and condition of the retaining clips.
Repeat these checks on the inner CV joints. If
any damage or deterioration is found, the
gaiters should be renewed as described in
Chapter 8.
3 At the same time, check the general
condition of the outer CV joints themselves,

by first holding the driveshaft and attempting
to rotate the wheels. Repeat this check on the
inner joints, by holding the inner joint yoke
and attempting to rotate the driveshaft.
4 Any appreciable movement in the CV joint
indicates wear in the joint, wear in the
driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft
retaining nut.

23 Exhaust system check

1

1 With the engine cold (at least three hours
after the vehicle has been driven), check the
complete exhaust system, from its starting
point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe.
Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, where
unrestricted access is available; if a hoist is
not available, raise and support the vehicle on
axle stands.
2 Check the pipes and connections for
evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, or
damage. Make sure that all brackets and
rubber mountings are in good condition, and
tight; if any of the mountings are to be
renewed, ensure that the replacements are of
the correct type (see illustration). Leakage at
any of the joints or in other parts of the system
will usually show up as a black sooty stain in
the vicinity of the leak. Note: Exhaust sealants
should not be used on any part of the exhaust
system upstream of the catalytic converter -
even if the sealant does not contain additives
harmful to the converter, pieces of it may
break off and foul the element, causing local
overheating.
3 At the same time, inspect the underside of
the body for holes, corrosion, open seams,
etc. which may allow exhaust gases to enter
the passenger compartment. Seal all body
openings with silicone or body putty.
4 Rattles and other noises can often be
traced to the exhaust system, especially the
rubber mountings. Try to move the system,
silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If any
components can touch the body or
suspension parts, secure the exhaust system
with new mountings.

24 Underbody and fuel/brake

line check

1

1 With the vehicle raised and supported on
axle stands or over an inspection pit,
thoroughly inspect the underbody and
wheelarches for signs of damage and
corrosion. In particular, examine the bottom of
the side sills, and any concealed areas where
mud can collect. Where corrosion and rust is
evident, press and tap firmly on the panel with
a screwdriver, and check for any serious
corrosion which would necessitate repairs. If
the panel is not seriously corroded, clean
away the rust, and apply a new coating of

underseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for more
details of body repairs.
2 At the same time, inspect the PVC-coated
lower body panels for stone damage and
general condition.
3 Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on the
underbody for damage, rust, corrosion and
leakage. Also make sure that they are
correctly supported in their clips. Where
applicable, check the PVC coating on the
lines for damage.

25 Clutch operation and

hydraulic hose condition
check

1

1 Check the clutch pedal moves smoothly
and easily through its travel, and that the
clutch functions correctly, with no trace of slip
or drag.
2 Remove the closing panels under the facia
for access to the pedal and apply a few drops
of light oil to the pedal pivot. Refit the panel.
3 From within the engine compartment check
the condition of the fluid lines and hoses as
described in Section 8. Now have a look
under the front of the car at the clutch slave
cylinder. Check for signs of fluid leaks around
the rubber boot and check the security of the
linkage. Apply a few drops of oil to the
pushrod clevis pin and linkage.

26 Brake check

2

Note: For detailed photographs of the brake
system, refer to Chapter 9.
1 The work described in this Section should
be carried out at the specified intervals, or
whenever a defect is suspected in the braking
system. Any of the following symptoms could
indicate a potential brake system defect:
(a) The vehicle pulls to one side when the

brake pedal is depressed.

(b) The brakes make scraping or dragging

noises when applied.

(c) Brake pedal travel is excessive.
(d) The brake fluid requires repeated topping-

up.

2 A thorough inspection should be made to
confirm the thickness of the pad linings, as
follows.
3 Jack up the front or rear of the vehicle in
turn, and support it on axle stands.
4 For better access to the brake calipers,
remove the wheels.
5 Look through the inspection window in the
caliper, and check that the thickness of the
friction lining material on each of the pads is
not less than the recommended minimum
thickness given in the Specifications. Note:
Bear in mind that the lining material is normally
bonded to a metal backing plate.
6 If it is difficult to determine the exact
thickness of the pad linings, or if you are at all

Every 12 000 miles

1•21

23.2  Typical exhaust system rubber

mountings and brackets

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

concerned about the condition of the pads,
then remove them from the calipers for further
inspection (refer to Chapter 9).
7 Check the remaining brake caliper(s) in the
same way.
8 If any one of the brake pads has worn down
to, or below, the specified limit, all four pads
at that end of the car must be renewed as a
set (ie all the front pads or all the rear pads).
9 Measure the thickness of the discs with a
micrometer, if available, to make sure that
they still have service life remaining. If any
disc is thinner than the specified minimum
thickness, renew it (refer to Chapter 9). In any
case, check the general condition of the
discs. Look for excessive scoring and
discolouration caused by overheating. If these
conditions exist, remove the relevant disc and
have it resurfaced or renewed (refer to
Chapter 9).
10 Before refitting the wheels, check all
brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). In
particular, check the flexible hoses in the
vicinity of the calipers, where they are
subjected to most movement. Bend them
between the fingers (but do not actually bend
them double, or the casing may be damaged)
and check that this does not reveal
previously-hidden cracks, cuts or splits. On
completion, apply the handbrake and check
that the rear wheels are locked. The
handbrake does not normally require periodic
adjustment but if its travel seems excessive,
refer to Chapter 9.

27 Door, boot, tailgate and

bonnet check and
lubrication

1

1 Check that the doors, bonnet and
tailgate/boot lid close securely. Check that
the bonnet safety catch operates correctly.
Check the operation of the door check straps.
2 Lubricate the hinges, door check straps,
the striker plates and the bonnet catch
sparingly with a little oil or grease.

28 Bodywork, paint and 

exterior trim check

1

1 The best time to carry out this check is after
the car has been washed so that any surface
blemish or scratch will be clearly evident and
not hidden by a film of dirt.
2 Starting at one front corner check the
paintwork all around the car, looking for minor
scratches or more serious dents. Check all
the trim and make sure that it is securely
attached over its entire length.
3 Check the security of all door locks, door
mirrors, badges, bumpers radiator grille and
wheel trim. Anything found loose, or in need
of further attention should be done with
reference to the relevant Chapters of this
manual.

4 Rectify any problems noticed with the
paintwork or body panels as described in
Chapter 11.

29 Roadwheel nut tightness

check

1

1 Apply the handbrake and remove the wheel
trim.
2 Slacken each wheel nut in turn then, using a
torque wrench, tighten it to the specified
torque wrench setting. If any of the wheel nuts
appear corroded, or are tight to unscrew, jack
up and securely support the car at the front or
rear as applicable, and remove the relevant
wheel. Clean the threads of the wheel studs
and apply a high-melting point copper based
grease to each stud. It’s a good idea to do
this to all the studs at each wheel; if one was
corroded, they’re probably all the same.
3 If the nuts were removed, check the torque
setting again after lowering the car, then refit
the wheel trim.

30 Road test

1

Check the operation and
performance of the braking
system

1 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to
one side when braking, and that the wheels
do not lock prematurely when braking hard.
2 Check that there is no vibration through the
steering when braking.
3 Check that the handbrake operates
correctly, without excessive movement of the
lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary
on a slope.
4 With the engine switched off, test the
operation of the brake servo unit as follows.
Depress the footbrake four or five times to
exhaust the vacuum, then start the engine. As
the engine starts, there should be a noticeable
“give” in the brake pedal as vacuum builds
up. Allow the engine to run for at least two
minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake
pedal is now depressed again, it should be
possible to detect a hiss from the servo as the
pedal is depressed. After about four or five
applications, no further hissing should be
heard, and the pedal should feel considerably
harder.

Steering and suspension

5 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
6 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
no unusual vibrations or noises.
7 Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive sloppiness or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering and driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

8 Check the performance of the engine,
transmission and driveshafts.
9 Check that the engine starts correctly, both
when cold and when hot.
10 Listen for any unusual noises from the
engine and transmission.
11 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.
12 On manual transmission models, check
that all gears can be engaged smoothly
without noise, and that the gear lever action is
not abnormally vague or “notchy”.
13 On automatic transmission models, make
sure that the drive seems smooth without
jerks or engine speed “flare-ups”. Check that
all the gear positions can be selected with the
vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they
should be referred to a Rover dealer.
14 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from
the front of the vehicle as the vehicle is driven
slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock.
Carry out this check in both directions. If a
clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a
driveshaft joint, in which case renew the joint.

Clutch

15 Check that the clutch pedal moves
smoothly and easily through its full travel, and
that the clutch itself functions correctly, with
no trace of slip or drag. If the movement is
uneven or stiff in places, check the system
components with reference to Chapter 6.

Instruments and electrical
equipment

16 Check the operation of all instruments
and electrical equipment.
17 Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical
equipment in turn, to check that it functions
properly.

31 Automatic transmission fluid

level check

1

1 The level of the automatic transmission fluid
should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level
can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while
overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and
transmission damage.
2 The transmission fluid level should only be
checked when the transmission is hot (at its
normal operating temperature). If the vehicle
has just been driven over 10 miles (15 miles in
a cold climate), and the fluid temperature is
160 to 175ºF, the transmission is hot.

4-cylinder engine models

3 Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the
handbrake, and start the engine. While the
engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and
move the selector lever to the “P” (PARK)
position.
4 Remove the dipstick from its tube located

1•22

Every 12 000 miles

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

at the front left-hand side of the engine. Note
the condition and colour of the fluid on the
dipstick.
5 Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean
rag, and re-insert it into the filler tube until the
cap seats.
6 Pull the dipstick out again, and note the
fluid level. The level should be between the
“MIN” and “MAX” marks, on the side of the
dipstick marked “HOT” (see illustration). If
the level is on the “MIN” mark, stop the
engine, and add the specified automatic
transmission fluid through the dipstick tube,
using a clean funnel if necessary. It is
important not to introduce dirt into the
transmission when topping-up.
7 Add the fluid a little at a time, and keep
checking the level as previously described
until it is correct. The difference between the
“MIN” and “MAX” marks on the dipstick is
approximately 0.3 litre.

V6 engine models

8 Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the
handbrake, and start the engine. While the
engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and
move the selector lever to the “P” (PARK)
position.
9 Switch off the engine and wait one minute.
10 Remove the dipstick from its tube which
is located at the rear left-hand side of the
engine. The dipstick is mounted low down, on
top of the transmission casing and access is
not very good (see illustration). Note the
condition and colour of the fluid on the
dipstick.
11 Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a
clean rag, and re-insert it into the filler tube
until the cap seats.
12 Pull the dipstick out again, and note the
fluid level. The level should be within the
shaded sector on the blade. If the level is
below or very near to the bottom of the
shaded sector, add the specified automatic

transmission fluid through the dipstick tube,
using a clean funnel (see illustration). It is
important not to introduce dirt into the
transmission when topping-up.
13 Add the fluid a little at a time, and keep
checking the level as previously described
until it is correct. The difference between the
upper and lower part of the shaded sector is
approximately 0.9 litre.

All models

14 The need for regular topping-up of the
transmission fluid indicates a leak, which
should be found and rectified without delay.
15 The condition of the fluid should also be
checked along with the level. If the fluid at the
end of the dipstick is black or a dark reddish-
brown colour, or if it has a burned smell, the
fluid should be changed. If you are in doubt
about the condition of the fluid, purchase
some new fluid, and compare the two for
colour and smell.

Every 24 000 miles

1•23

31.12  Add the specified automatic

transmission fluid through the dipstick

tube, using a clean funnel

31.10  Automatic transmission fluid level

dipstick (1), Lower (2) and upper (3) shaded

sector and dipstick tube (4)

31.6  Automatic transmission fluid level

dipstick (1) and level markings on 

4-cylinder engine models

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years, whichever occurs first

32 Timing belt condition and

tension check

4

1 The manufacturers have increased the
service interval for checking the timing belt
condition and tension on certain engines, due
to the introduction of automatic tensioners
and improvements in timing belt construction
and manufacture. However, the conse-
quences of timing belt failure can be very
expensive in terms of possible engine damage
and it is still worthwhile to check the belt at
the shorter intervals given in this schedule.
The procedures vary considerably according
to engine type and model year, and reference
should be made to the appropriate Part of
Chapter 2 for full information.

33 Positive Crankcase

Ventilation (PCV) system
check

1

1 The function of the crankcase ventilation
system is to reduce the emission of unburned
hydrocarbons from the crankcase, and to
minimise the formation of oil sludge. By
ensuring that a depression is created in the
crankcase under most operating conditions,
particularly at idle, and by positively inducing
fresh air into the system, the oil vapours and
“blow-by” gases collected in the crankcase
are drawn from the crankcase, through the air
cleaner or oil separator, into the inlet tract, to
be burned by the engine during normal
combustion.
2 On four cylinder engines, the main

components of the system are an oil
separator, diverter valve and associated
hoses. Checking of the system consists of a
simple visual check of the component hoses
and their connections.
3 On V6 engines the crankcase ventilation
system main components are a PCV valve,
located in the breathing chamber of the front
camshaft cover, and the hoses that connect
to the internal channels in the inlet manifold.
As with 4-cylinder engines, checking is limited
to merely a visual hose condition check.
Accurate checking of the PCV valve should be
entrusted to a dealer.
4 Check that all components of the system
are securely fastened, correctly routed (with
no kinks or sharp bends to restrict flow) and in
sound condition; renew any worn or damaged
components.

5 If oil leakage is noted, disconnect the
various hoses and pipes, and check that all
are clear and unblocked. Remove the air
cleaner assembly cover, and check that the
hose is clear and undamaged. Always ensure
that the air cleaner filter element is clean as
this is a vital part of the system. If it is not due
for renewal but appears dirty, it may be
possible to clean it as described in Sec-
tion 12.

34 Fuel filter renewal

1

Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so extra precautions
must be taken when working on
any part of the fuel system. Do

not smoke, or allow open flames or bare
light bulbs, near the work area. Also, do not
work in a garage if a natural gas-type
appliance with a pilot light is present. While
performing any work on the fuel system,
wear safety glasses, and have a suitable
(Class B) fire extinguisher on hand. If you
spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off
immediately with soap and water.
1 On all engines, a fuel filter is provided in the
fuel pump outlet line and is located on the left-
hand side of the engine compartment
bulkhead. The filter performs a vital role in
keeping dirt and other foreign matter out of
the fuel system, and so must be renewed at
regular intervals, or whenever you have
reason to suspect that it may be clogged.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
3 Place absorbent rags around the fuel filter
outlet union banjo bolt, then slowly unscrew
the bolt itself or, on later models, the small
bleed screw in the centre of the bolt, to relieve
the system pressure (see illustrations). If a
bleed screw was fitted, tighten it once the
pressure has been released.
4 On 4-cylinder engines, unscrew the filter
inlet and outlet union banjo bolts, and recover
the four copper washers. On V6 engines,
unscrew the inlet union nut and withdraw the
pipe from the filter head (see illustration).

Now unscrew the outlet union banjo bolt and
recover the two copper washers.
5 Undo the filter bracket retaining nuts or
bolts, and remove the filter (see illustration).
6 Refitting is the reverse sequence to
removal, but use new copper washers on the
banjo unions.

35 Automatic transmission fluid

renewal

1

1 The automatic transmission fluid should be
changed when the transmission is warm after
the vehicle has been driven for two or three
miles.
2 Position the vehicle over an inspection pit,
on vehicle ramps, or jack it up, but make sure
that it is level.
3 Place a large container beneath the
transmission and thoroughly clean the area
around the drain plug(s). On 4-cylinder engine
models, undo the two socket-headed drain
plugs - one on the side of the sump pan, and
one on the transmission casing (see
illustration). On V6 engine models undo the
single drain plug on the end of the
transmission casing at the front. Allow the
fluid to drain into the container. 

Warning: Take care to avoid
scalding - the transmission fluid
will be very hot. Remove the
dipstick to speed up the
draining operation.

4 When all the fluid has drained (this may take
quite some time) clean the drain plug(s) then
refit, together with new seals and tighten
securely.
5 Lower the vehicle to the ground and apply
the handbrake securely.
6 Place a funnel in the dipstick tube and fill
the transmission with the specified type of
fluid. Only add about half the specified
amount before checking the level on the
dipstick.
7 On 4-cylinder engine models, slowly add
more fluid until the level just shows on the
dipstick. Now start the engine with the
selector lever in “P” and check the fluid level
on the dipstick immediately (don’t wait for the
engine to warm up). Add fluid as necessary
until the level is up to the “MAX” mark on the
“COLD” side of the blade then refit the
dipstick. Recheck the level as described in
Section 31, with the engine fully warmed-up,
at the earliest opportunity.
8 On V6 engine models, slowly add more fluid
until the level is within the shaded sector on
the dipstick blade. Refit the dipstick, drive the
car until it is fully warmed-up, then recheck
the level as described in Section 31.

1•24

Every 24 000 miles

35.3  Automatic transmission fluid drain

plug locations on 4-cylinder engine models

1 Sump pan drain plug
2 Transmission casing drain plug
3 Sealing washers

34.5  Undo the filter bracket retaining nuts

or bolts, and remove the filter

34.4  On V6 engines, unscrew the inlet

union nut and withdraw the pipe from the

filter head

34.3b  Unscrewing the banjo union bolt on

V6 engines

34.3a  Fuel filter outlet union banjo bolt

(arrowed) on 4-cylinder engines

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

36 Brake fluid renewal

3

The procedure is similar to that for the

bleeding of the hydraulic system as described
in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid
reservoir should be emptied by syphoning,
and allowance should be made for the old
fluid to be removed from the circuit when
bleeding a section of the circuit.

37 Manual transmission oil

renewal

1

1 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands making sure that it is level.
2 Place a container beneath the drain plug,
which is located below the driveshaft inner
constant velocity joint on the same side as the
filler plug (see illustration). Undo the plug
using a square key, and allow the oil to drain.
If a key is not available, the 3/8 inch square
drive end of a socket bar will suffice.
3 Refit the plug after draining, using a new
sealing washer if necessary, then refill with
fresh oil as described in Section 20.

38 Coolant renewal

1

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your
skin or painted surfaces of the
vehicle. Flush contaminated

areas immediately with plenty of water.
Don’t store new coolant, or leave old
coolant lying around, where it’s accessible
to children or pets - they’re attracted by its
sweet smell. Ingestion of even a small
amount of coolant can be fatal! Wipe up
garage-floor and drip-pan spills
immediately. Keep antifreeze containers
covered, and repair cooling system leaks
as soon as they’re noticed.

Warning: Never remove the
expansion tank filler cap when
the engine is running, or has
just been switched off, as the

cooling system will be hot, and the
consequent escaping steam and scalding
coolant could cause serious injury.

Coolant draining

Warning: Wait until the engine is
cold before starting this
procedure.

1 To drain the system, first remove the
expansion tank filler cap (see Section 3).
Move the heater temperature control lever to
the fully hot position.
2 If additional working clearance is required,

raise the front of the vehicle and support it
securely on axle stands.
3 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the
undertray from beneath the radiator.
4 Place a container beneath the left-hand
side of the radiator. Slacken the hose clip and
carefully ease the bottom hose off the radiator
outlet. Allow the coolant to drain into the
container.
5 Additionally, on V6 engines, slacken the
two cylinder block drain plugs, on the front
and rear sides of the engine, and drain the
cylinder block (see illustration). Use two
containers for this operation, or open the drain
plugs one at a time.

System flushing

6 With time, the cooling system may
gradually lose its efficiency, as the radiator
core becomes choked with rust, scale
deposits from the water, and other sediment.
To minimise this, as well as using only good-
quality antifreeze and clean soft water, the
system should be flushed as follows
whenever any part of it is disturbed, and/or
when the coolant is renewed.
7 With the coolant drained, refit the bottom
hose and where applicable tighten the drain
plugs, then refill the system with fresh water.
Refit the expansion tank filler cap, start the
engine and warm it up to normal operating
temperature, then stop it and (after allowing it
to cool down completely) drain the system
again. Repeat as necessary until only clean
water can be seen to emerge, then refill finally
with the specified coolant mixture.
8 If only clean, soft water and good-quality
antifreeze has been used, and the coolant has
been renewed at the specified intervals, the
above procedure will be sufficient to keep
clean the system for a considerable length of
time. If, however, the system has been
neglected, a more thorough operation will be
required, as follows.
9 First drain the coolant, then disconnect the
radiator top and bottom hoses. Insert a
garden hose into the top hose, and allow
water to circulate through the radiator until it
runs clean from the bottom outlet.
10 To flush the engine, insert the garden
hose into the thermostat water outlet, and
allow water to circulate until it runs clear from

the bottom hose. If, after a reasonable period,
the water still does not run clear, the radiator
should be flushed with a good proprietary
cleaning agent.
11 In severe cases of contamination,
reverse-flushing of the radiator may be
necessary. To do this, remove the radiator
(Chapter 3), invert it, and insert the garden
hose into the bottom outlet. Continue flushing
until clear water runs from the top hose outlet.
A similar procedure can be used to flush the
heater matrix.
12 The use of chemical cleaners should be
necessary only as a last resort. Normally,
regular renewal of the coolant will prevent
excessive contamination of the system.

Coolant filling

13 With the cooling system drained and
flushed, ensure that all disturbed hose unions
are correctly secured, and that the radiator
drain plug is securely tightened. Refit the
radiator undershield if it was removed for
access, and lower the vehicle to the ground.
14 Prepare a sufficient quantity of the
specified coolant mixture allow for a surplus,
so as to have a reserve supply for topping-up.
15 Slacken the cooling system bleed screw
which, on early 4-cylinder engines, is located
on the hose connecting the main coolant pipe
to the water pump at the rear of the engine
and, on V6 engines, just below the throttle
body (see illustrations). Later (1992 onward)
4-cylinder engines don’t have a bleed screw.
16 Slowly fill the system through the

Every 24 000 miles

1•25

38.15a  Cooling system bleed screw

location (arrowed) on early 4-cylinder

engines . . .

38.5  V6 engine cylinder block drain plug

(arrowed)

37.2  Manual transmission oil drain plug

location (arrowed)

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

expansion tank until coolant, free from air
bubbles, flows from the bleed screw. Tighten
the bleed screw and continue filling until the
coolant level reaches the expansion tank
“MAX” level line.
17 Start the engine, run it for approximately
two minutes, then switch off.
18 Slowly unscrew the pressure cap one
complete turn, wait until all the pressure
escapes, then remove the cap. Check that the
coolant just covers the pipe outlet on the
seam of the tank, top up if necessary, then
refit the cap.

19 After refilling, always check carefully all
components of the system (but especially any
unions disturbed during draining and flushing)
for signs of coolant leaks. Fresh antifreeze has
a searching action, which will rapidly expose
any weak points in the system.
20 Note: If, after draining and refilling the
system, symptoms of overheating are found
which did not occur previously, then the fault
is almost certainly due to trapped air at some
point in the system, causing an air-lock and
restricting the flow of coolant; usually, the air
is trapped because the system was refilled too
quickly. In some cases, air-locks can be
released by tapping or squeezing the various
hoses. If the problem persists, stop the engine
and allow it to cool down completely, before
unscrewing the expansion tank filler cap or
disconnecting hoses to bleed out the trapped
air.

Antifreeze mixture

21 The cooling system should be filled with a
water/ethylene glycol-based antifreeze
solution, of a strength which will prevent
freezing down to at least -25ºC, or lower if the
local climate requires it. Antifreeze also
protects against corrosion, and increases the
coolant boiling point.
22 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling

system should be completely drained,
preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for
condition and security. As noted earlier, fresh
antifreeze will rapidly find any weaknesses in
the system.
23 After filling with antifreeze, a label should
be attached to the expansion tank, stating the
type and concentration of antifreeze used,
and the date installed. Any subsequent
topping-up should be made with the same
type and concentration of antifreeze.
24 The exact mixture of antifreeze-to-water
which you should use depends on the relative
weather conditions. On all V6 engines, and 
4-cylinder engines equipped with air
conditioning, the mixture should contain
approximately 50% antifreeze. On 4-cylinder
engines without air conditioning, approxi-
mately a 33% antifreeze mixture is
recommended. Antifreeze concentrations
greater than 55% for V6 engines or 60% for 
4-cylinder engines are not recommended as
the efficiency of the cooling system may be
impaired. Consult the mixture ratio chart on
the antifreeze container before adding
coolant. Hydrometers are available at most
automotive accessory shops to test the
coolant. Use antifreeze which meets the
vehicle manufacturer’s specifications.

1•26

Every 24 000 miles

38.15b  . . . and on V6 engines (arrowed)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 48 000 miles

39 Timing belt renewal

4

1 As mentioned in Section 32, the

manufacturers have increased the service
interval for checking the timing belt condition
and tension on certain engines, and also the
renewal interval. On certain engines the
renewal interval is every 48 000 miles but,
according to the manufacturer’s, the timing

belt on 1990 model year onward V6 engines
should last for 96 000 miles. Prudent 
owners may wish to reduce this interval
considerably.
2 Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, or Part B as
applicable for renewal procedures

40 Braking system hydraulic

fluid seal check and renewal

3

Refer to the relevant overhaul procedures in

Chapter 9, for the brake calipers and master
cylinder.

41 Emissions control

equipment check

5

1 Details of the emissions control system
components are given in Chapter 4 Part E,
and checking procedures for the positive

crankcase ventilation system is given in
Section 33 of this Chapter.
2 Checking and testing of the other emissions
control systems should be entrusted to a
Rover dealer.

Every 60 000 miles or 5 years, whichever occurs first

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

2A

General

Engine type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Four-cylinder, in-line, double-overhead camshafts

Engine codes:

“M” series engines:

Normally aspirated engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

M16 (20 HD)

Turbocharged engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

M16 (20 M4G)

“T” series engines:

Normally aspirated engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

T16 (20 T4)

Turbocharged engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

T16 (20 T4) Turbo

Capacity  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1994 cc

Bore  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

84.45 mm

Stroke  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

89.0 mm

Compression ratio:

Normally aspirated engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10.0:1

Turbocharged engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8.5:1

Firing order  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)

Direction of crankshaft rotation  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Timing belt tensioner spring free length (“T” series engines)  . . . . . . . . .

57.5 to 58.5 mm

Cylinder head

Maximum gasket face distortion  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.1 mm

Camshafts and hydraulic tappets

Camshaft bearing running clearance:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.060 to 0.094 mm

Used  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.15 mm maximum

Camshaft endfloat (“T” series engines)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.06 to 0.25 mm

Lubrication

Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

See Chapter 1

Engine oil capacity  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

See Chapter 1

Oil pressure:

Idling  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.7 bar

Running . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3.8 bar

Auxiliary drivebelts check and renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and 

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Camshaft covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

Camshaft oil seals - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Compression test - description and interpretation  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Cylinder head - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Cylinder head, rocker gear and valve assemblies - 

cleaning and inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2C

Engine oil and filter change  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Engine oil level check  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Engine overhaul - general information  . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2C
Engine/transmission - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2C
Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal  . . . . . . . . 18

Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . 17
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

Inlet manifold - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Oil pump - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle  . . . . . . . .

2

Spark plug renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Timing belt (“M” series) - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . .

7

Timing belt (“T” series) - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . .

8

Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection and 

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

Water pump - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 3

2A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1

Chapter 2  Part A: 4-cylinder engine – 
in-car engine repair procedures

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Camshaft cover bolts:

“M” series engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

“T” series engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

6

Camshaft sprocket bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

65

48

Camshaft housing bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Timing belt tensioner bolt:

“M” series engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

“T” series engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

30

22

Timing belt idler pulley bolt (“M” series engines):

Up to 1989  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

1989 onwards  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50

36

Cylinder head bolts (“M” series engines):

Up to 1989:

Stage 1  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Stage 2  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80

59

Stage 3  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Angle-tighten a further 60º, or to 108 Nm (80 lbf ft) whichever comes first

1989 onwards:

Stage 1  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Stage 2  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80

59

Stage 3  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Angle-tighten a further 90º

Cylinder head bolts (“T” series engines):

With MSPS stamped on bolt head:

Stage 1  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Stage 2  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80

59

Stage 3  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Angle-tighten a further 90º

With KX stamped on bolt head:

Stage 1  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Stage 2  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70

52

Stage 3  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Angle-tighten a further 90º

Inlet manifold nuts and bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Exhaust manifold nuts and bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Crankshaft pulley centre bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

85

63

Crankshaft pulley-to-sprocket bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

6

Oil pump housing bolts (“M” series engines)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

4

Oil pump housing bolts (“T” series engines):

M6 bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

6

M10 bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Oil pump cover plate  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

4

Oil pick-up pipe-to-pump screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

6

Sump bolts:

“M” series engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

6

“T” series engines:

Stage 1  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

3

Stage 2  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Flywheel bolts:

“M” series engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

85

63

“T” series engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

110

81

Torque converter driveplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

110

81

Transmission adaptor plate bolts:

“M” series engines:

Bolts below crankshaft centre-line  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Bolts above crankshaft centre-line  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

“T” series engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Rear oil seal carrier bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

6

Main bearing cap  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

110

81

Crankpin (big-end) bearing cap bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

55

41

Front engine mounting to transmission bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80

59

Front engine mounting bracket to transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

40

30

Rear engine mounting bracket to transmission  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

40

30

Right-hand engine mounting through-bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Right-hand engine mounting to engine bracket  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

60

44

Right-hand engine mounting bracket to engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Engine rear tie-bar to mounting bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75

55

Engine rear tie-bar mounting bracket bolts:

M10 bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

M12 bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

85

63

Engine rear tie-bar through-bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

85

63

Longitudinal support member to underbody  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Engine snubber bracket to transmission  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

2A•2 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1

General information

How to use this Chapter

1 This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair
procedures possible while the engine is still
installed in the car, and includes only the
Specifications relevant to those procedures.
Similar information concerning the V6 engines
will be found in Part B of this Chapter. Since
these procedures are based on the
assumption that the engine is installed in the
car, if the engine has been removed and
mounted on a stand, some of the preliminary
dismantling steps outlined will not apply.
2 Information concerning engine/trans-
mission removal and refitting, and engine
overhaul, can be found in Part C of this
Chapter, which also includes the Specifi-
cations relevant to those procedures.

Engine description

“M” series engine

3 The M16 engine fitted to Rover 820 models
is a water-cooled, four-cylinder, double-
overhead camshaft, four-stroke petrol engine,
of 1994 cc capacity. The engine was fitted to
Rover 820 models from 1986 until
approximately October 1991.
4 The combined crankcase and cylinder
block is of cast iron construction, and houses
the pistons, connecting rods and crankshaft.
The solid skirt cast aluminium alloy pistons
have two compression rings and an oil control
ring, and are retained on the connecting rods
by fully floating gudgeon pins. To reduce
frictional drag and piston slap, the gudgeon
pin is offset to the thrust side of the piston.
The forged steel connecting rods are attached
to the crankshaft by renewable shell type big-
end bearings. The crankshaft is carried in five
main bearings, also of the renewable shell
type. Crankshaft endfloat is controlled by
thrust washers which are located on either
side of the centre main bearing.
5 The twin overhead camshafts are located in
the cylinder head, and each is retained in
position by a housing bolted to the cylinder
head upper face. The camshafts are
supported by five bearing journals machined
directly into the head and housings. Drive to
the camshafts is by an internally-toothed
rubber timing belt, from a sprocket on the
front end of the crankshaft. An idler pulley and
adjustable tensioner pulley are fitted to
eliminate backlash and prevent slackness of
the belt. The distributor rotor arm is attached
to the rear of the exhaust camshaft, and on
early models, the power steering pump is
belt-driven from a sprocket attached to the
rear of the inlet camshaft. On later models, the
power steering is located at the front of the
engine, and is belt-driven from a sprocket on
the crankshaft.

6 The M16 engine utilizes four valves per
cylinder, mounted at an inclined angle, and
running in guides which are pressed into the
cylinder head. The valves are of small
diameter, to improve breathing efficiency and
reduce valve mass. Each valve is opened by a
hydraulic tappet, acted upon directly by the
lobe of the camshaft, and closed by a single
valve spring.
7 Blow-by gases from the crankcase are
vented by a positive crankcase ventilation
system back into the intake air stream for
combustion. The system incorporates an oil
separator, to return oil droplets to the sump,
and a diverter valve, which channels the
vapour to inlets on either side of the throttle
valve, depending on manifold depression.
8 The pressed-steel sump is attached to the
underside of the crankcase, and acts as a
reservoir for the engine oil. The oil pump
draws oil through a strainer attached to the
pick-up pipe and submerged in the oil. The
pump passes the oil along a short passage
and into the full-flow filter, which is screwed
onto the pump housing. The freshly filtered oil
flows from the filter and enters the main
cylinder block oil gallery, which feeds the
crankshaft main bearings. Oil passes from the
main bearings, through drillings in the
crankshaft to the big-end bearings.
9 As the crankshaft rotates, oil is squirted
from a hole in each connecting rod, to splash
the thrust side of the pistons and cylinder
bores.
10 A drilling from the main oil gallery feeds
the cylinder head gallery, via a restrictor
located just below the top face of the cylinder
block. The cylinder head contains an oil
gallery on each side, with drillings to lubricate
each camshaft journal and hydraulic tappet
bore. The oil then drains back into the sump
via large drillings in the cylinder head and
cylinder block.
11 On turbocharged engines, a take-off pipe
from the main oil gallery feeds the
turbocharger shaft bearings and then returns
to the sump via an oil return pipe.
12 A pressure relief valve is incorporated in
the oil pump housing, to maintain the oil
pressure within specified limits.

“T” series engine

13 The T16 engine fitted to later Rover 820
and Vitesse models is a development of the
“M” series unit and is similar in most areas.
The engine was fitted to Rover 820 models
from approximately October 1991 and is
currently still in production.
14 The main differences between the two
units is in the following areas.
15 The timing belt only drives the two
camshafts; the water pump now being situated
externally on the engine, behind the power
steering pump, and driven (in conjunction with
the power steering pump) by the auxiliary drive
belt. The timing belt incorporates an automatic
tensioner to maintain correct timing belt
tension for virtually the life of the belt.

16 The semi-floating pistons are retained on
the connecting rods by interference fit
gudgeon pins.
17 The engine mountings have been revised
to improve vibration resistance and power
unit stability.
18 Other detail modifications have been
incorporated, mainly in the area of ancillary
component attachments, and these will be
covered in greater detail where procedures in
this Chapter are likely to be affected.

2

Repair operations possible
with the engine in the vehicle

The following operations can be carried out
without having to remove the engine from the
car:
(a) Compression pressure - testing.
(b) Removal and refitting of the timing belt.
(c) Removal and refitting of the camshaft and

tappets.

(d) Removal and refitting of the cylinder

head.

(e) Removal and refitting of the sump.
(f)

Removal and refitting of the big-end
bearings.*

(g) Removal and refitting of the piston and

connecting rod assemblies.*

(h) Removal and refitting of the oil pump.
(i)

Removal and refitting of the engine
mountings.

(j)

Removal and refitting of the flywheel or
driveplate (after first removing the
transmission).

* In extreme cases caused by a lack of
necessary equipment, repair or renewal of
piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and
big-end bearings is possible with the engine in
the vehicle. However, this practice is not
recommended, because of the cleaning and
preparation work that must be done to the
components involved, and because of the
amount of preliminary dismantling work
required - these operations are therefore
covered in Part C of this Chapter.

3

Compression test -
description and interpretation

2

1 When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel systems, a compression
test can provide diagnostic clues as to the
engine’s condition. If the test is performed
regularly, it can give warning of trouble before
any other symptoms become apparent.
2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to
normal operating temperature, the oil level
must be correct, the battery must be fully
charged, and the spark plugs must be
removed. The aid of an assistant will also be
required.

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures  2A•3

2A

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

3 Disable the ignition system by
disconnecting the LT wiring connectors from
the ignition coil. Refer to Chapter 5 for further
information.
4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1
cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester
which screws into the plug thread is to be
preferred.
5 Arrange for an assistant to hold the
accelerator pedal fully depressed to the floor
while at the same time cranking the engine
over several times on the starter motor.
Observe the compression gauge reading. The
compression will build up fairly quickly in a
healthy engine. Low compression on the first
stroke, followed by gradually increasing
pressure on successive strokes indicates
worn piston rings. A low compression on the
first stroke which does not rise on successive
strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown
head gasket (a cracked cylinder head could
also be the cause). Deposits on the underside
of the valve heads can also cause low
compression. Record the highest gauge
reading obtained, then repeat the procedure
for the remaining cylinders.
6 Due to the variety of testers available, and
the fluctuation in starter motor speed when
cranking the engine, different readings are
often obtained when carrying out the
compression test. However, the most
important factor is that the compression
pressures are uniform in all cylinders, and that
is what this test is mainly concerned with.
7 Add some engine oil (about three squirts

from a plunger type oil can) to each cylinder
through the spark plug holes and repeat the
test.
8 If the compression increases after the oil is
added it is indicative that the piston rings are
definitely worn. If the compression does not
increase significantly, the leakage is occurring
at the valves or the head gasket. Leakage
past the valves may be caused by burned
valve seats and/or faces or warped, cracked
or bent valves.
9 If two adjacent cylinders have equally low
compressions, it is most likely that the head
gasket has blown between them. The
appearance of coolant in the combustion
chambers or crankcase would verify this
condition.
10 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower
than the other, and the engine has a rough
idle, a worn lobe on the camshaft could be the
cause.
11 On completion of the checks, refit the
spark plugs and reconnect the LT wiring at
the ignition coil.

4

Camshaft covers - 
removal and refitting

1

“M” series engines

Removal

1 Detach the breather hose from the rear of
the inlet camshaft cover.
2 On cars with multi-point fuel injection,
release the plastic covers then undo the two
bolts securing the plenum chamber support
brackets to the plenum chamber.
3 Undo the two bolts and lift off the spark
plug cover from the centre of the cylinder
head. Note that the spark plug HT lead
grommet engages with the end of the cover,
and on certain models, an accelerator cable
support bracket is also retained by the right-
hand cover bolt.
4 Undo the ten bolts securing each camshaft
cover to its respective camshaft housing, and
lift off the two covers (see illustrations).
5 Withdraw the baffle plates, taking care not
to damage the sealing edges on both sides of
the plates (see illustration).

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Renew the
baffle plates if their sealing edges are
damaged. Tighten the bolts to the specified
torque.

“T” series engines

Removal

7 Detach the breather hoses from the side
and rear of the inlet camshaft cover.
8 Undo the two bolts securing the plenum
chamber support brackets to the plenum
chamber.
9 Undo the four screws and lift off the spark
plug cover between the two camshaft covers.
10 Working from the centre outwards
slacken then remove the ten bolts (inlet
camshaft cover), or 12 bolts (exhaust
camshaft cover) and lift off the two covers.
11 Withdraw the baffle plates, taking care not
to damage the sealing edges on both sides of
the plates.

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Renew
the baffle plates if their sealing edges are
damaged. Tighten the cover bolts to the
specified torque in the sequence shown (see
illustration).

5

Inlet manifold - 
removal and refitting

1

Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system.

Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or
bare light bulbs in or near the work area.
Don’t work in a garage where a natural
gas appliance (such as a clothes dryer or
water heater) is installed. If you spill petrol
on your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have
a fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires
handy, and know how to use it.

2A•4 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

4.12  Camshaft cover tightening sequence

for “T” series engines

4.5  Remove the baffle plates over the

camshafts

4.4b  . . . and remove the covers

4.4a  Undo the camshaft cover retaining

bolts . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Single-point fuel injection
engines

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2 Refer to Chapter 4A, and remove the air
cleaner air box.
3 Relieve the fuel system pressure as
described in Chapter 4A, Section 5.
4 Release the hose clips and disconnect the
two fuel hoses from the fuel pipes (see
illustration).
5 Refer to Chapter 4A, Section 12, and
remove the throttle body.
6 Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the cooling
system.
7 Undo the brake servo banjo hose union at
the manifold, and recover the two copper
washers (see illustration).
8 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect the
coolant hose from the right-hand end of the
manifold (see illustration).
9 Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the left-
hand end of the manifold, after noting their
respective positions for reassembly.
10 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect the
remaining coolant hose from the manifold.
11 Undo the bolt securing the manifold to the
support bracket under the coolant hose
outlet.
12 Undo the bolt securing the upper end of
the stay bar to the manifold.
13 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the car and support it on axle stands.

14 Undo the manifold stay bar lower
retaining bolt and remove the stay (see
illustration).
15 Release the clip and disconnect the
breather hose from the oil separator (see
illustration).
16 Disconnect the breather hose from the
lower end of the oil separator at the cylinder
block, and at the sump outlet.
17 Disconnect the lead at the oil pressure
switch and disconnect the pressure
transducer lead at the wiring connector.
18 Unscrew the pipe union nut at the oil
pressure switch adaptor.
19 Unscrew the bolt securing the oil pressure
switch adaptor and oil separator to the
cylinder block and remove the adaptor and oil
separator.
20 Disconnect the wiring plug at the knock
sensor on the cylinder block, and the two
leads at the manifold heater temperature
sensor under the manifold (see illustration).
Move the wiring harness clear of the manifold.
21 Slacken the nine nuts and bolts securing
the manifold to the cylinder head.
22 Remove all the bolts followed by the two
nuts, then withdraw the manifold off the studs
and remove it from the engine. Recover the
manifold gasket.
23 Clean the manifold and cylinder head
mating faces, and obtain a new gasket if the
sealing lips of the original are damaged.

Refitting

24 Refitting is a reversal of removal; tighten

the manifold nuts and bolts in the sequence
shown, to the specified torque (see
illustration).

Multi-point fuel injection
engines

Removal

25 Remove the fuel injectors and fuel rail as
described in Section 12 of either Chapter 4B,
for “M” series, or Chapter 4C for “T” series.
26 Release the clip and disconnect the
breather hose from the oil separator.
27 Disconnect the breather hose from the
lower end of the oil separator and the sump
outlet.
28 Disconnect the wires at the oil pressure
switch, oil pressure transducer and knock
sensor.

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures  2A•5

5.8  Disconnect the coolant hose from the

right-hand end of the manifold

5.7  Undo the brake servo banjo hose

union at the manifold

5.4  Release the hose clips and disconnect

the two hoses from the fuel pipes

5.24  Inlet manifold nut and bolt tightening

sequence

5.14  Undo the manifold stay bar lower

retaining bolt (arrowed)

5.20  Disconnect the leads at the manifold

heater temperature sensor

5.15  Disconnect the breather hose (A)

from the oil separator (B)

2A

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

29 Slacken the nine nuts and bolts securing
the manifold to the cylinder head.
30 Remove all the bolts, followed by the two
nuts, then withdraw the manifold off the studs
and remove it from the engine. Recover the
manifold gasket.
31 Clean the manifold and cylinder head
mating faces, and obtain a new gasket if the
sealing lips of the original are damaged.

Refitting

32 Refitting is a reversal of removal; tighten
the manifold nuts and bolts in the sequence
shown, to the specified torque (see
illustration 5.24).

6

Exhaust manifold - 
removal and refitting

1

Note:  Never work on or near a hot exhaust
system and in particular, the catalytic
converter (where fitted).

Single-point fuel injection
engines

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2 Refer to Chapter 4A, Section 2, and remove
the necessary air cleaner components to

provide access to the front and side of the
engine.
3 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.
4 Remove the dipstick from the dipstick tube.
5 Remove the distributor cap and place it to
one side.
6 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the car and support it on axle stands.
7 Undo the four bolts securing the exhaust
front pipe flange to the manifold. Separate the
flange and recover the gasket.
8 Undo the bolts on both sides securing the
two halves of the manifold stove together, and
remove the outer half (see illustrations).
9 Undo the bolt securing the heater bypass
pipe to the cylinder head and to the main
coolant pipe support bracket (see
illustrations).
10 Slacken the clip securing the bypass pipe
connecting hose to the thermostat housing.
11 Undo the five nuts and bolts securing the
manifold to the cylinder head, noting that the
upper nut also secures the bypass pipe
bracket (see illustration).
12 Release the connecting hose from the
thermostat housing, and withdraw the bypass
pipe from the manifold stud.
13 Remove the manifold from the cylinder
head, followed by the inner half of the stove
and the manifold gasket.
14 Clean the manifold and cylinder head
mating faces, and obtain a new gasket if the
original is damaged.

Refitting

15 Refitting is a reversal of removal; tighten
the manifold nuts and bolts starting with the
upper two, then the lower centre, then the two
outer, to the specified torque. Make sure that
the inner half of the stove is in position before
fitting the manifold.

Multi-point fuel injection
engines

Normally-aspirated engines

16 Refer to the procedures described above
for single-point fuel injection engines, but
ignore the instructions to remove the manifold
stove, which is not fitted to models with multi-
point fuel injection.

Turbocharged engines

17 Refer to Chapter 4B or 4C as applicable
and remove the turbocharger.
18 Refer to the procedures described above
for single-point fuel injection engines, but
ignore the instructions to remove the manifold
stove, which is not fitted to models with multi-
point fuel injection.

7

Timing belt (“M” series) -
removal, refitting and
adjustment

4

Note: Accurate adjustment of the timing belt
entails the use of a tension checking gauge
which is a Rover special tool. An approximate
setting can be achieved using the method
described in this Section, but the tension
should be checked by a Rover dealer on
completion.
Note: On early “M” series engines the
crankshaft pulley and timing belt sprocket are
a one-piece assembly secured by a single
centre bolt. On later “M” series engines (with a
front mounted power steering pump), the
pulley and sprocket are two separate
components secured by the centre retaining
bolt and four additional bolts. As this
difference significantly affects the timing belt
procedures, identify the type being worked on
before proceeding.

2A•6 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

6.11  Undo the manifold nuts and bolts,

noting that the upper nut also secures the

bypass pipe bracket

6.9b  . . . and to the main coolant pipe

bracket (arrowed)

6.9a  Undo the bolt securing the bypass

pipe to the cylinder head (arrowed) . . .

6.8b  . . . and remove the stove outer half

6.8a  Undo the bolts securing the two

halves of the manifold stove . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Early “M” series engines

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2 Slacken the right-hand front wheel nuts,
jack up the front of the car and support it on
axle stands. Remove the roadwheel.
3 Undo the three bolts and remove the
access panel under the wheelarch.
4 Refer to Chapter 1 and remove the auxiliary
drivebelt.
5 Position a jack and interposed block of
wood under the sump, and just take the
weight of the engine.
6 Undo the bolts securing the power steering
pipe support brackets, and move the pipes

slightly to gain access to the right-hand
engine mounting (see illustration).
7 Undo the engine mounting through-bolt,
and recover the special nut. Note that the
forked end of the nut plate locates over a stud
on the body bracket (see illustration).
8 Undo the two bolts securing the engine
mounting to its mounting bracket, and remove
the mounting.
9 Raise the engine slightly, then undo the
three bolts and lift off the timing belt upper
cover (see illustration).
10 Undo the four bolts and remove the timing
belt lower cover (see illustration).
11 Using a socket or spanner on the
crankshaft pulley, turn the crankshaft in an
anti-clockwise direction until the timing

notches on the camshaft sprockets are facing
each other and aligned horizontally (see
illustrations). The notch on the crankshaft
pulley should also be aligned with the edge of
the metal bracket which forms the timing belt
bottom cover (see illustration). In this
position, the crankshaft is at 90º BTDC, with
No 1 piston on its compression stroke.
12 If required, the crankshaft can be locked in
this position, by inserting a dowel rod or drill
through the hole in the transmission adaptor
plate, near to the lower edge of the cylinder
block on the front-facing side of the engine (see
illustration). The dowel or drill will then engage
with a corresponding hole in the flywheel.
13 Undo the three bolts and remove the
timing belt bottom cover (see illustration).

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures  2A•7

7.9  Timing belt upper cover retaining bolts

(arrowed)

7.7  Undo the engine right-hand mounting

through-bolt

7.6  Undo the bolts securing the power

steering pipe support brackets (arrowed)

7.13  Removing the timing belt bottom

cover

7.12  Lock the crankshaft by inserting a
dowel rod or drill (1) through the hole in

the transmission adaptor plate

7.11c  Crankshaft pulley timing notch

(arrowed) aligned with timing belt bottom

cover

7.11b  . . . then check their horizontal

alignment with a straight edge

7.11a  Turn the crankshaft to align the

sprocket timing marks (arrowed) . . .

7.10  Timing belt lower cover retaining

bolts (arrowed)

2A

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

14 Using an Allen key, undo the timing belt
tensioner retaining bolt, and remove the
tensioner (see illustration).
15 Slip the belt off the sprockets, and
remove it from the engine.
16 If the timing belt is to be re-used, mark its
running direction with an arrow in chalk, and
store it on its edge while it is off the engine.
17 Check the belt for any sign of cracks or
splits, particularly around the roots of the
teeth. Renew the belt if wear is obvious, if
there are signs of oil contamination, or if the
belt has exceeded its service interval (see
Chapter 1). Also renew the sprockets if they
show any signs of wear or chipping of the
teeth.
18 Check the tensioner and sprockets as
described in Section 9.
19 Before refitting, check that the crankshaft
is still at the 90º BTDC position, and that the
timing marks on the two sprockets are still
aligned.

Refitting and adjustment

20 Engage the timing belt with the teeth of
the crankshaft sprocket, and then pull the belt
vertically upright on its straight, right-hand
run. Keep it taut, and engage it over the
exhaust camshaft sprocket, then the inlet
camshaft sprocket.
21 Check that none of the sprockets have
moved, then feed the belt around the idler
pulley and engage it with the teeth of the
water pump sprocket.
22 Fit the timing belt tensioner and secure
with the retaining bolt, tightened finger-tight
only at this stage.
23 Engage an Allen key with the hexagonal
adjusting hole in the tensioner, and turn the
tensioner body until there is moderate tension
on the belt (see illustration). Hold the
tensioner in this position, and tighten the
retaining bolt.
24 Remove the locking pin (if used) from the
transmission adaptor plate, and turn the
crankshaft one complete turn clockwise,
followed by one complete turn anti-clockwise,
and re-align the timing marks.
25 Check that it is just possible to deflect the
belt, using moderate hand pressure, by 
19.0 mm at a point midway between the
crankshaft and exhaust camshaft sprockets.

Re-adjust the tension if necessary by
slackening the tensioner retaining bolt, and
repositioning the tensioner body with the Allen
key. Recheck the tension again after turning
the crankshaft one turn clockwise, then one
turn anti-clockwise. It must be emphasised
that this is only an approximate setting, and
the tension should be checked by a dealer,
using the Rover tension gauge, at the earliest
opportunity.
26 Refit the timing belt bottom cover, turn the
crankshaft to align the pulley timing mark with
the edge of the bottom cover, and make a
final check that the camshaft sprocket timing
marks are still aligned.
27 Refit the timing belt upper and lower
covers.
28 Refit the engine mounting to its bracket,
lower the engine and secure the mounting to
the body with the through-bolt and special
nut.
29 Refer to Chapter 1 and refit the auxiliary
drivebelt.
30 Refit the power steering pipe support
brackets, the wheelarch access panel, and
the roadwheel.
31 Lower the car to the ground, tighten the
wheel nuts fully, and reconnect the battery.

Later “M” series engines

Removal

32 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to
9 above.
33 Undo the four bolts and remove the timing
belt centre cover.
34 Using a socket or spanner on the
crankshaft pulley, turn the crankshaft in an anti-
clockwise direction until the notches on the
camshaft sprockets are facing each other and
aligned horizontally. Insert a dowel rod or drill
through the hole in the transmission adaptor
plate, near to the lower edge of the cylinder
block on the front-facing side of the engine
(see illustration 7.12). The dowel or drill will
then engage with a corresponding hole in the
flywheel. If the dowel won’t engage, turn the
crankshaft through 180º and try again. With the
dowel rod engaged and the camshaft notches
aligned, the crankshaft is at 90º BTDC, with 
No 1 piston on its compression stroke.
Temporarily remove the dowel rod.

35 Refer to Chapter 5, and remove the starter
motor.
36 Using a socket and long handle, slacken
the crankshaft pulley centre retaining bolt.
Lock the flywheel ring gear, through the
starter motor aperture, using a large
screwdriver or similar tool to prevent the
crankshaft rotating as the pulley bolt is
undone. This operation will probably have
moved the timing marks on the camshafts out
of alignment, so re-align them, and fit the
crankshaft dowel rod as described previously.
37 Remove the centre retaining bolt from the
crankshaft pulley, then unscrew the four
additional pulley bolts and remove the pulley.
38 Undo the bolts and remove the timing belt
bottom cover.
39 Using an Allen key, undo the timing belt
tensioner retaining bolt, and remove the ten-
sioner.
40 Slip the belt off the sprockets, and
remove it from the engine.
41 Check the timing belt, sprockets and
tensioner as described in paragraphs 16 to
18.
42 Before refitting, check that the crankshaft
is still at the 90º BTDC position, and that the
timing marks on the two sprockets are still
aligned.

Refitting and adjustment

43 Engage the timing belt with the teeth of
the crankshaft sprocket, and then pull the belt
vertically upright on its straight, right-hand
run. Keep it taut, and engage it over the
exhaust camshaft sprocket, then the inlet
camshaft sprocket.
44 Check that none of the sprockets have
moved, then feed the belt around the idler
pulley and engage it with the teeth of the
water pump sprocket.
45 Fit the timing belt tensioner and secure
with the retaining bolt, tightened finger-tight
only at this stage.
46 Refit the timing belt bottom cover.
47 Remove the dowel rod from the
crankshaft.
48 Refit the crankshaft pulley and secure
with the centre bolt and four additional bolts,
tightened to the specified torque. Hold the
crankshaft using the same procedure as for
removal to tighten the centre bolt.
49 Engage an Allen key with the hexagonal
adjusting hole in the tensioner, and turn the
tensioner body until there is moderate tension
on the belt. Hold the tensioner in this position,
and tighten the retaining bolt.
50 Turn the crankshaft one complete turn
clockwise, followed by one complete turn
anti-clockwise, and re-align the timing marks.
51 Check that it is just possible to deflect the
belt, using moderate hand pressure, by 
19.0 mm at a point midway between the
crankshaft and exhaust camshaft sprockets.
Re-adjust the tension if necessary by
slackening the tensioner retaining bolt, and
repositioning the tensioner body with the Allen
key. Recheck the tension again after turning

2A•8 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

7.23  Tensioner hexagonal adjusting hole

(arrowed)

7.14  Removing the timing belt tensioner

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

the crankshaft one turn clockwise, then one
turn anti-clockwise. It must be emphasised
that this is only an approximate setting, and
the tension should be checked by a dealer,
using the Rover tension gauge, at the earliest
opportunity.
52 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of
removal.

8

Timing belt (“T” series) -
removal, refitting and
adjustment

4

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2 Slacken the right-hand front wheel nuts,
jack up the front of the car and support it on
axle stands. Remove the roadwheel.
3 Undo the three bolts and remove the
access panel under the wheelarch.
4 Refer to Chapter 1 and remove the auxiliary
drivebelt.
5 Position a jack and interposed block of
wood under the sump, and just take the
weight of the engine.
6 Undo the bolts securing the power steering
pipe support brackets, and move the pipes
slightly to gain access to the right-hand
engine mounting.
7 Undo the engine mounting through-bolt,
and recover the special nut. Note that the
forked end of the nut plate locates over a stud
on the body bracket.
8 Undo the two bolts securing the engine
mounting to its mounting bracket, and remove
the mounting.
9 Raise the engine slightly, then undo the five
bolts and lift off the timing belt upper cover
(see illustration).
10 Undo the remaining five bolts and remove
the timing belt centre cover.
11 Using a socket or spanner on the
crankshaft pulley, turn the crankshaft in an
anti-clockwise direction until the timing
notches on the camshaft sprockets are facing
each other and aligned horizontally. Insert a
dowel rod or drill through the hole in the
transmission adaptor plate, near to the lower
edge of the cylinder block on the front-facing
side of the engine (see illustration 7.12). The
dowel or drill will then engage with a
corresponding hole in the flywheel. If the
dowel won’t engage, turn the crankshaft
through 180º and try again.
12 With the dowel rod engaged and the
camshaft notches aligned, the crankshaft is at
90º BTDC, with No 1 piston on its
compression stroke. Temporarily remove the
dowel rod.
13 Refer to Chapter 5, and remove the starter
motor.
14 Using a socket and long handle, slacken
the crankshaft pulley centre retaining bolt.
Lock the flywheel ring gear, through the
starter motor aperture, using a large

screwdriver or similar tool to prevent the
crankshaft rotating as the pulley bolt is
undone. This operation will probably have
moved the timing marks on the camshafts out
of alignment, so re-align them, and fit the
crankshaft dowel rod as described previously.
15 Remove the centre retaining bolt from the
crankshaft pulley, then unscrew the four
additional pulley bolts and remove the pulley.
16 Undo the three bolts and remove the
timing belt bottom cover.
17 Slacken the timing belt tensioner centre
bolt, move the tensioner away from the belt as
far as it will go, then re-tighten the tensioner
bolt.
18 Slip the belt off the sprockets, and
remove it from the engine.
19 If the timing belt is to be re-used, mark its
running direction with an arrow in chalk, and
store it on its edge while it is off the engine.
20 Check the tensioner and sprockets as
described in Section 9.

Refitting and adjustment

21 Before refitting the belt, check that the
crankshaft is still at the 90º BTDC position
(dowel rod engaged) and that the timing
marks on the two sprockets are still aligned.

22 Engage the timing belt with the teeth of
the crankshaft sprocket, and then pull the belt
vertically upright on its straight, right-hand
run. Keep it taut, and engage it over the
exhaust camshaft sprocket, then the inlet
camshaft sprocket.
23 Check that none of the sprockets have
moved, then feed the belt around the
tensioner.
24 Refit the timing belt bottom cover.
25 Remove the dowel rod from the
crankshaft.
26 Refit the crankshaft pulley and secure
with the centre bolt and four additional bolts,
tightened to the specified torque. Hold the
crankshaft using the same procedure as for
removal to tighten the centre bolt.
27 Slacken the timing belt tensioner retaining
bolt slightly and allow the tensioner to
automatically tension the belt.
28 Using a torque wrench applied to the inlet
camshaft sprocket retaining bolt, apply a load
of 40 Nm, in an anti-clockwise direction, to
take up all the slack in the timing belt. Hold
this load, and tighten the tensioner retaining
bolt to the specified torque.
29 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of
removal.

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures  2A•9

8.9  Timing belt components as fitted to “T” series engines

1 Upper cover bolt
2 Upper cover
3 Camshaft sprocket bolt
4 Washer
5 Timing belt
6 Inlet camshaft sprocket
7 Exhaust camshaft sprocket
8 Backplate bolt

9 Upper backplate

10 Lower backplate
11 Spring sleeve
12 Anchorage bolt
13 Tensioner spring
14 Timing belt tensioner
15 Tensioner bolt

16 Crankshaft sprocket
17 Bottom cover
18 Bottom cover bolt
19 Centre cover
20 Crankshaft pulley
21 Pulley-to-sprocket bolts
22 Pulley centre bolt

2A

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

9

Timing belt tensioner and
sprockets - removal,
inspection and refitting

4

Tensioner

Removal

1 Remove the timing belt as described in
Sections 7, or 8, according to engine type.
2 On the “M” series engine, the tensioner will
have been removed together with the timing
belt; proceed to paragraph 6.
3 On the “T” series engine, slacken the
tensioner retaining bolt and allow the
tensioner to move fully under the action of the
spring.
4 Unhook the tensioner spring from the
anchorage stud.
5 Remove the tensioner retaining bolt, lift off
the tensioner and remove the spring.

Inspection

6 Spin the tensioner, and ensure that there is
no roughness or harshness in the bearing.
Also check that the endfloat is not excessive
and there is no sign of free play. Check the
surface of the tensioner for any signs of
roughness, nicks or scoring which may
damage the timing belt. Renew the tensioner
if worn.
7 On “T” series engines, measure the free
length of the tensioner spring. If the free
length is greater than that specified, renew the
spring.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Camshaft sprockets

Removal

9 Remove the timing belt as described in
Sections 7, or 8, according to engine type.
10 Undo the retaining bolt securing each
sprocket to its respective camshaft. To
prevent the sprockets turning as the bolts are
undone, either insert a large screwdriver
through one of the sprocket holes and engage
it with one of the backplate bolts behind, or
make up a holding tool from scrap metal,

which is of a scissor shape, with a bolts at
each end to engage with the holes in the
sprocket.
11 Withdraw the two sprockets from the
camshafts, noting that they are not identical,
and should be marked INLET (or IN) and
EXHAUST on their front faces to avoid
confusion. If no marks are visible, make your
own to identify each sprocket (see
illustration).

Inspection

12 Check the condition of the sprockets,
inspecting carefully for any wear grooves,
pitting or scoring around the teeth, or any
wear ridges which might cause damage to the
timing belt. Make sure that the dowels are not
worn and are not a loose fit in the camshaft or
sprocket holes.

Refitting

13 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure
that the sprockets are fitted to their correct
camshafts and tighten the retaining bolt to the
specified torque.

Crankshaft sprocket

Removal

14 Remove the timing belt as described in
Sections 7, or 8, according to engine type.
15 Slide the sprocket off the front of the
crankshaft (“T” series engines).

Inspection

16 Check the condition of the sprocket,
inspecting carefully for any wear grooves,
pitting or scoring around the teeth, or any
wear ridges which might cause damage to the
timing belt. Examine the Woodruff key and its
groove and make sure it is a tight fit.

Refitting

17 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

10 Camshaft oil seals - 

renewal

4

Note: The use of an oil seal extractor which
screws into the seal inside circumference is

preferable for this operation. These are
available at most accessory shops and can
often be hired from tool hire outlets. In the
absence of this type of tool, an alternative (but
less satisfactory) method of removal is
described in the following procedure.

Front oil seals

1 Remove the camshaft sprockets as
described in the previous Section.
2 On early “M” series engines undo the
retaining bolt using an Allen key, and remove
the timing belt idler pulley. Recover the spacer
behind the pulley (see illustration).
3 Undo the bolts and remove the backplate
from the cylinder head (see illustration).
4 The oil seals are now accessible for
removal. Punch or drill two small holes
opposite each other in the oil seal. 
Screw a self-tapping screw into each hole and
pull on the screws with pliers to extract the
seal.
5 Check that the housing is clean before
fitting the new seal. Lubricate the lips of the
seal and the running faces of the camshaft
with clean engine oil, then carefully locate the
seal over the camshaft and drive it squarely
into position using a tube or a socket. Take
great care not to turn over the lips of the seal
as it is being fitted. An alternative method of
fitting is to draw it squarely into position using
the sprocket bolt and a distance piece.
6 With the seal fully inserted in its housing,
refit the components removed for access then
refit the camshaft sprockets as described in
the previous Section.

Rear oil seals

Exhaust camshaft oil seal

7 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 and
remove the air cleaner assembly and intake
trunking components as necessary for
access.
8 Undo the two retaining bolts, withdraw the
distributor cap, and place it to one side.
9 Undo the retaining Allen screw, and remove
the distributor rotor arm.
10 Undo the two screws and remove the

2A•10 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

10.3  Undo the bolts (arrowed) and remove

the backplate

10.2  Remove the timing belt idler pulley

and recover the spacer (arrowed)

9.11  The camshaft sprockets are marked

INLET (or IN) and EXHAUST on their front

faces (arrowed)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake