Rover 820, 825, 827. Repair Manual - part 2

Maintenance and servicing

1•5

1 Vehicle identification plate
2 Screen washer reservoir filler
3 Power steering fluid reservoir

filler

4 Cooling system expansion tank

filler

5 Front shock absorber top

mounting

6 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir

filler

7 Brake master cylinder
8 Vacuum servo unit
9 Fuel filter
10 Power steering pump drivebelt

(early models)

11 Distributor cap
12 Ignition coil
13 Brake pressure reducing valve
14 Fuse and relay box
15 Battery negative terminal
16 Battery positive terminal
17 Ignition/fuel ECU
18 Air cleaner assembly
19 Radiator cooling fan
20 Air cleaner intake trunking
21 Engine oil dipstick
22 Alternator
23 Thermostat housing
24 Engine oil filler cap

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 
2 years, whichever occurs first

m

m

Renew the spark plugs (models with emission control
equipment) (Section 11).

m

m

Renew the air cleaner filter element (models with emission
control equipment) (Section 12).

m

m

Check the condition and tension of the timing belt
(Section 32).

m

m

Check the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system (Section 33).

m

m

Renew the fuel filter (Section 34).

m

m

Renew the automatic transmission fluid (Section 35).

m

m

Renew the brake fluid (Section 36).

m

m

Renew the manual transmission oil (Section 37).

m

m

Renew the coolant (Section 38).

Every 48 000 miles (80 000 km)

m

m

Renew the timing belt (Section 39).

Every 60 000 miles (100 000 km) or 
5 years, whichever occurs first

m

m

Renew the braking system rubber seals (recommendation
only) (Section 40).

m

m

Check the operation of the emission control equipment
(Section 41).

Engine compartment component locations - 
4-cylinder engine models with single-point fuel injection

1•6

Maintenance and servicing

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Vehicle identification plate
2 Screen washer reservoir filler
3 Power steering fluid reservoir

filler

4 Cooling system expansion tank

filler

5 Front shock absorber top

mounting

6 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir

filler

7 Brake master cylinder
8 Vacuum servo unit
9 Fuel filter
10 Ignition system ECU
11 Ignition coil
12 Brake pressure reducing valve
13 Fuse and relay box
14 Battery negative terminal
15 Battery positive terminal
16 Air cleaner assembly
17 Radiator cooling fan
18 Air cleaner intake trunking
19 Engine oil dipstick
20 Airflow meter
21 Throttle housing
22 Plenum chamber
23 Engine oil filler cap
24 Alternator
25 Power steering pump (later

models)

Engine compartment component locations - 
4-cylinder engine models with multi-point fuel injection

1 Engine oil dipstick
2 Screen washer reservoir filler
3 Power steering fluid reservoir

filler

4 Cooling system expansion tank

filler

5 Alternator
6 Power steering pump
7 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir

filler

8 Fuel filter
9 Control box
10 Ignition coil
11 Throttle body
12 ABS modulator
13 Fuse and relay box
14 Battery negative terminal
15 Battery positive terminal
16 Air cleaner assembly
17 Engine oil filler cap

Engine compartment component locations - V6 engine models

Maintenance and servicing

1•7

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Engine undertray
2 Front towing eye
3 Longitudinal support member
4 Clutch slave cylinder
5 Reversing light switch
6 Front tie-bar
7 Transmission drain plug
8 Inner constant velocity joint
9 Transmission filler plug
10 Front anti-roll bar
11 Gearchange rod
12 Steady rod
13 Fuel pipes
14 Exhaust section flange joint
15 Power steering gear
16 Steering track rod
17 Front lower suspension arm
18 Brake caliper
19 Oil filter
20 Driveshaft damper
21 Engine oil drain plug

Underside view at front end showing component locations on 
4-cylinder engine models

1 Exhaust intermediate section
2 Fuel tank
3 Exhaust rear heat shield
4 Handbrake cable
5 Fuel pipes
6 Trailing link
7 Fuel filler neck connection
8 Transverse link
9 Fuel tank retaining straps
10 Rear anti-roll bar
11 Rear silencer
12 Brake caliper

Underside view at rear end

3

Fluid level checks

1

General

1 Fluids are an essential part of the
lubrication, cooling, braking and other
systems. Because these fluids gradually
become depleted and/or contaminated during
normal operation of the vehicle, they must be
periodically replenished. See “Lubricants,
fluids and capacities” at the beginning of this
Chapter before adding fluid to any of the
following components. Note: The vehicle
must be on level ground before fluid levels can
be checked.

Engine oil

2 The engine oil level is checked with a
dipstick located at the front of the engine in
the centre, or on the right-hand side (see
illustration). The dipstick extends through a
metal tube, from which it protrudes down into
the sump at the bottom of the engine.
3 The oil level should be checked before the
vehicle is driven, or about 5 minutes after the
engine has been switched off. If the level is
checked immediately after driving the vehicle,
some of the oil will remain in the engine upper
components, producing an inaccurate
reading.
4 Pull the dipstick from the tube, and wipe all
the oil from the end with a clean rag or paper
towel; note the dipstick’s maximum and
minimum levels, indicated by holes on the
dipstick (see illustration). Insert the clean
dipstick all the way back into its metal tube,

and pull it out again. Observe the oil on the
end of the dipstick; its level should be
between these two holes.
5 Do not allow the level to drop below the
minimum level notch, or oil starvation may
cause engine damage. Conversely, overfilling

the engine (adding oil above the maximum
level notch) may cause oil-fouled spark plugs,
oil leaks or oil seal failures.
6 The oil filler cap is screwed into the right-
hand front end of the valve cover; unscrew it
to add oil (see illustrations). When topping-

Maintenance procedures

1•8

Maintenance and servicing

3.6b  . . . and on V6 engines

3.6a  Topping up the engine oil on 4-

cylinder engines . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1

Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the home

mechanic maintain the Rover 800 Series
models for peak performance, economy,
safety and long life.

Contained in this Chapter is a master

maintenance schedule, followed by Sections
dealing specifically with each item on the
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component replacement and other helpful
items are included. Refer to the
accompanying illustrations of the engine
compartment and the underside of the vehicle
for the location of various components.

Servicing your Rover in accordance with

the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide it with a

planned maintenance programme, which
should result in a long and reliable service life.
This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining
some items but not others at the specified
service intervals will not produce the same
results.

As you service your car, you will discover

that many of the procedures can - and should -
be grouped together, because of the nature of
the particular procedure you’re performing, or
because of the close proximity to one another
of two otherwise-unrelated components.

For example, if the vehicle is raised for any

reason, you should inspect the exhaust,
suspension, steering and fuel systems while
you’re under the vehicle. When you’re
checking the tyres, it makes good sense to
check the brakes and wheel bearings,
especially if the roadwheels have already
been removed.

Finally, let’s suppose you have to borrow or

hire a torque wrench. Even if you only need to
tighten the spark plugs, you might as well
check the torque of as many critical fasteners
as time allows.

2

Routine maintenance

The first step of this maintenance

programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the
Sections which are relevant to the procedures
you’re planning to carry out, then make a list
of, and gather together, all the parts and tools
you will need to do the job. If it looks as if you
might run into problems during a particular
segment of some procedure, seek advice
from your local parts man or dealer service
department.

Weekly checks

3.4  Note the dipstick’s maximum and

minimum levels, indicated by holes on the

dipstick

3.2  Engine oil dipstick location (arrowed)

on V6 engines

up, use only the correct grade and type of oil,
as given in the “Lubricants, fluids and
capacities” Section of this Chapter; use a
funnel if necessary to prevent spills. After
adding the oil, refit the filler cap hand-tight.
Start the engine, and allow it to idle while the
oil is redistributed around the engine - while
you are waiting, look carefully for any oil leaks,
particularly around the oil filter or drain plug.
Stop the engine; check the oil level again,
after the oil has had enough time to drain from
the upper block and cylinder head galleries.
7 Checking the oil level is an important
preventive maintenance step. A continually-
dropping oil level indicates oil leakage through
damaged seals and from loose connections,
or oil consumption past worn piston rings or
valve guides. If the oil looks milky in colour, or
has water droplets in it, the cylinder head
gasket may be blown - the engine’s
compression pressure should be checked
immediately (see Chapter 2). The condition of
the oil should also be checked. Each time you
check the oil level, slide your thumb and index
finger up the dipstick before wiping off the oil.
If you see small dirt or metal particles clinging
to the dipstick, the oil should be changed.

Coolant

Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank filler
cap, or to disturb any part of the
cooling system, while it or the

engine is hot, as there is a very great risk
of scalding.
8 All vehicles covered by this manual are
equipped with a sealed, pressurised cooling
system. A translucent plastic expansion tank,
located on the right-hand side of the engine
compartment, is connected by a hose to the
thermostat housing or radiator top hose. As
the coolant heats up during engine operation,
surplus coolant passes through the
connecting hose into the expansion tank. As
the engine cools, the coolant is automatically
drawn back into the cooling system’s main
components, to maintain the correct level.
9 While the coolant level must be checked
regularly, remember that it will vary with the
temperature of the engine. When the engine is
cold, the level should be up to the pipe outlet
on the side of the tank, but once the engine
has warmed up, the level may rise to above
this level.
10 For an accurate check of the coolant level,
the engine must be cold and the level must be
up to the pipe outlet. If it is below this level, the
coolant must be topped-up as follows.
11 First prepare a sufficient quantity of
coolant mixture, using clean, soft water and
antifreeze of the recommended type, in the
specified mixture ratio. If only a small amount
of coolant is required to bring the system up
to the proper level, plain water can be used,
but repeatedly doing this will dilute the
antifreeze/water solution in the system,
reducing the protection it should provide
against freezing and corrosion. To maintain

the specified antifreeze/water ratio, it is
essential to top-up the coolant level with the
correct mixture, as described here. Use only
ethylene/glycol type antifreeze, and do not
use supplementary inhibitors or additives. 

Warning: Never remove the
expansion tank filler cap when
the engine is running, or has
just been switched off, as the

cooling system will be hot, and the
consequent escaping steam and scalding
coolant could cause serious injury.
12 If topping-up is necessary, wait until the
system has cooled completely (or at least 10
minutes after switching off the engine, if lack of
time means it is absolutely necessary to top-up
while the engine may still be warm). Wrap a
thick cloth around the expansion tank filler cap,
and unscrew it one full turn. If any hissing is
heard as steam escapes, wait until the hissing
ceases, indicating that pressure is released,
then slowly unscrew the filler cap until it can be
removed. If more hissing sounds are heard,
wait until they have stopped before unscrewing
the filler cap completely. At all times, keep your
face, hands and other exposed skin well away
from the filler opening.
13 When the filler cap has been removed,
add coolant to bring the level up to the outlet
pipe level (see illustration). Refit the cap,
tightening it securely.
14 With this type of cooling system, the
addition of coolant should only be necessary
at very infrequent intervals. If topping-up is
regularly required, or if the coolant level drops
within a short time after replenishment, there
may be a leak in the system.
15 Inspect the radiator, hoses, expansion
tank filler cap, radiator drain plug and water
pump. If no leak is evident, have the filler cap
and the entire system pressure-tested by your
dealer or garage; this will usually show up a
small leak not otherwise visible.

Windscreen/tailgate and
headlight washer fluid

16 Fluid for the windscreen/tailgate/headlight
washer system is stored in a plastic reservoir,
the filler neck of which is located at the right-
hand front corner of the engine compartment.
17 To check the fluid level, release the cap
and observe the level in the reservoir by
looking down the filler neck. In milder

climates, plain water can be used to top-up
the reservoir, but the reservoir should be kept
no more than two-thirds full, to allow for
expansion should the water freeze. In colder
climates, the use of a specially-formulated
windscreen washer fluid, available at your
dealer or any car accessory shop, will help
lower the freezing point of the fluid. Do not
use regular (engine) antifreeze - it will damage
the vehicle’s paintwork.

Battery electrolyte

18 On models not equipped with a sealed
battery (see Section 9), check the electrolyte
level of all six battery cells. The level must be
approximately 10 mm above the plates; this
may be shown by maximum and minimum
level lines marked on the battery’s casing. If
the level is low, use a coin to release the
filler/vent cap, and add distilled water. Install
and retighten the cap. 
Caution: Overfilling the cells may cause
electrolyte to spill over during periods of
heavy charging, causing corrosion or
damage. Refer to the warning at the
beginning of Section 9.

Brake fluid

19 The brake fluid reservoir is located on the
top of the brake master cylinder, attached to
the front of the vacuum servo unit. The “MAX”
and “MIN” marks are indicated on the side of
the translucent reservoir, and the fluid level
should be maintained between these marks at
all times.
20 The brake fluid inside the reservoir is
readily visible. With the vehicle on level
ground, the level should be on or just below
the “MAX” mark.
21 Progressive wear of the brake pad linings
causes the level of the brake fluid to gradually
fall; however, when the brake pads are
renewed, the original level of the fluid is
restored. It is not therefore necessary to top-
up the level to compensate for this minimal
drop, but the level must never be allowed to
fall below the minimum mark.
22 If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the
area around the filler cap with a clean rag before
removing the cap - do not invert the cap after
removal. When adding fluid, pour it carefully
into the reservoir, to avoid spilling it on
surrounding painted surfaces (see illustration).

Weekly Checks

1•9

3.22  Topping up the brake master cylinder

reservoir

3.13  Topping up the cooling system

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Be sure to use only the specified hydraulic fluid
(see “Lubricants, fluids and capacities” at the
start of this Chapter) since mixing different
types of fluid can cause damage to the system. 

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and damage
painted surfaces, so use
extreme caution when handling

and pouring it. Wash off spills immediately
with plenty of water. Do not use fluid that
has been standing open for some time, as
it absorbs moisture from the air. Excess
moisture can cause corrosion and a
dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.
23 When adding fluid, it is a good idea to
inspect the reservoir for contamination. The
system should be drained and refilled if
deposits, dirt particles or contamination are
seen in the fluid.
24 After filling the reservoir to the correct
level, make sure that the cap is refitted

securely, to avoid leaks and the entry of
foreign matter.
25 If the reservoir requires repeated
replenishing to maintain the correct level, this
is an indication of an hydraulic leak
somewhere in the system, which should be
investigated immediately.

Power steering fluid

26 See Section 5 of this Chapter.

4

Tyre and tyre pressure
checks

1

1 Periodic inspection of the tyres may spare
you from the inconvenience of being stranded
with a flat tyre. It can also provide you with
vital information regarding possible problems
in the steering and suspension systems
before major damage occurs.
2 The current tyres are equipped with tread
wear indicator (TWI) bands, which will appear
when the tread depth reaches approximately
1.6 mm. Most tyres have a mark around the
tyre at regular intervals to indicate the location
of the tread wear indicators, the mark being
TWI, an arrow, or the tyre manufacturer’s
symbol. Tread wear can also be monitored
with a simple inexpensive device known as a
tread depth indicator gauge (see illustration).
3 Ensure that tyre pressures are checked
regularly and maintained correctly (see the
Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter
for pressures). Checking should be carried out
with the tyres cold, and not immediately after

the vehicle has been in use. If the pressures
are checked with the tyres hot, an apparently-
high reading will be obtained, owing to heat
expansion. Under no circumstances should an
attempt be made to reduce the pressures to
the quoted cold reading in this instance, or
effective under-inflation will result. Most
garage forecourts have a pressure line which
combines a gauge to check and adjust the
tyre pressures, but they may vary in accuracy,
due to general misuse and abuse. It therefore
pays to carry a good-quality tyre pressure
gauge in the vehicle, to make the checks
required and ensure pressure accuracy.
4 Note any abnormal tread wear (see
illustration). Tread pattern irregularities such
as feathering, flat spots, and more wear on
one side than the other, are indications of
front wheel alignment and/or balance
problems. If any of these conditions are
noted, they should be rectified as soon as
possible.
5 Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, owing to excessive flexing of the casing,
and the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause a consequent loss of
adhesion and excessive wear, as well as the
danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat
build-up.
6 Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the
centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with
reduced adhesion, harder ride, and the
danger of damage occurring in the tyre
casing.
7 Regularly check the tyres for damage in the
form of cuts or bulges, especially in the
sidewalls. Remove any nails or stones

1•10

Weekly Checks

4.2  Checking the tyre tread depth with a

depth gauge

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)
Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and
the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause a loss of grip and
excessive wear, not to mention the danger of
sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.
Check and adjust pressures
Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)
Repair or renew suspension parts
Hard cornering
Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation
Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the
centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with
reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of
shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.
Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s
tyres to the higher pressures specified for
maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t
forget to reduce the pressures to normal
afterwards.

Uneven  Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and
garages can check and adjust the wheel
alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.
Incorrect camber or castor
Repair or renew suspension parts
Malfunctioning suspension
Repair or renew suspension parts
Unbalanced wheel
Balance tyres
Incorrect toe setting
Adjust front wheel alignment
Note: The feathered edge of the tread which
typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

embedded in the tread, before they penetrate
the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail
reveals that the tyre has been punctured, refit
the nail, so that its point of penetration is
marked. Then immediately change the wheel,
and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Do
not drive on a tyre in such a condition. If in any
doubt as to the possible consequences of any
damage found, consult your local tyre dealer
for advice.
8 General tyre wear is influenced to a large
degree by driving style - harsh braking and
acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce
more rapid tyre wear. Interchanging of tyres
may result in more even wear; however, it is
worth bearing in mind that if this is completely
effective, the added expense is incurred of
replacing simultaneously a complete set of
tyres, which may prove financially restrictive
for many owners.
9 Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
wheel misalignment. The front wheels should
always be correctly aligned according to the
settings specified by the vehicle
manufacturer.
10 Don’t forget to check the spare tyre for
condition and pressure.
11 Legal restrictions apply to many aspects
of tyre fitting and usage, and in the UK this
information is contained in the Motor Vehicle
Construction and Use Regulations. It is
suggested that a copy of these regulations is
obtained from your local police, if in doubt as
to current legal requirements with regard to
tyre type and condition, minimum tread depth,
etc.

5

Power steering fluid level
check

1

1 The power steering fluid reservoir is located
on the right-hand side of the engine
compartment next to the cooling system
expansion tank.
2 For the fluid level check on 4-cylinder
models, the power steering system must be
cold; on V6 models, it may be either hot or
cold.

3 Use a clean rag to wipe the filler cap and
the surrounding area, to prevent foreign
matter from entering the system. Unscrew
and remove the filler cap.
4 Check that the fluid level is up to the “MAX”
mark on the dipstick. On V6 engine models,
there is a scale on both sides of the dipstick,
one for hot checking and one for cold
checking.
5 Top-up the level to the “MAX” mark, using
the grade of fluid specified at the beginning of
this Chapter (see illustration). Be careful not
to introduce dirt into the system, and do not
overfill. The need for frequent topping-up
indicates a leak, which should be
investigated.
6 Refit the filler cap.

6

Windscreen/tailgate and
headlight washer system
and wiper blade check

1

1 The windscreen and tailgate wiper and
blade assembly should be inspected at the
specified intervals for damage, loose
components, and cracked or worn blade
elements.
2 Road film can build up on the wiper blades
and affect their efficiency, so they should be
washed regularly with a mild detergent solution.
3 The action of the wiping mechanism can
loosen bolts, nuts and fasteners, so they

should be checked and tightened, as
necessary, at the same time as the wiper
blades are checked.
4 If the wiper blade elements are cracked,
worn or warped, or no longer clean
adequately, they should be replaced with new
ones.
5 Switch on the ignition, and the windscreen
wipers, then park the wipers vertically on the
windscreen while they are still running. Lift the
wiper arm and blade away from the glass.
6 To remove the wiper blade, depress the
catch on the blade attachment, then withdraw
the blade assembly off the arm (see
illustration).
7 The tailgate wiper blade is removed in the
same way, but it is not necessary to park it in
the centre of the glass prior to removal.
8 If the metal part of the wiper blade is in
good condition, it may be possible to renew
the rubber insert separately. The insert can be
obtained from a car accessory shop and,
according to type, it may need to be cut to the
correct length before sliding into the clips.
9 Refit the wiper blade assembly using a
reversal of the removal procedure, making
sure that it fully engages with the spring clip.
10 Check that the washer jets direct the fluid
onto the upper part of the
windscreen/tailgate, and if necessary adjust
the small sphere on the jet with a pin. Note
that the headlight washer jets are of the fixed
type and cannot be adjusted.

Weekly Checks

1•11

6.6  Remove the windscreen wiper blade

by depressing the catch on the blade, then

withdraw the blade assembly off the arm

5.5  Topping up the power steering fluid

reservoir

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 6000 miles or 6 months, whichever occurs first

7

Engine oil and filter change

1

1 Make sure that you have all the necessary
tools before you begin this procedure. 
You should also have plenty of rags 
or newspapers handy, for mopping up any
spills. 
2 To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to
protect yourself from possible skin irritants
and other harmful contaminants in used
engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves
when carrying out this work.
3 Access to the underside of the vehicle is
greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on
a hoist, driven onto ramps, or supported by
axle stands. 

Warning: Do not work under a
vehicle which is supported only
by an hydraulic or scissor-type
jack, or by bricks, blocks of
wood, etc.

4 If this is your first oil change, get under the
vehicle and familiarise yourself with the
position of the engine oil drain plug location in
the sump. The engine and exhaust
components will be warm during the actual
work, so try to anticipate any potential
problems while the engine and accessories
are cool.
5 The oil should preferably be changed when

Frequent oil changes are the
best preventive
maintenance the home
mechanic can give the

engine, because ageing oil becomes
diluted and contaminated, which leads
to premature engine wear.

the engine is still at normal operating
temperature, just after a run; warm oil and
sludge will flow out more easily. Park the
vehicle on firm, level ground, apply the
handbrake, then select 1st or reverse gear
(manual transmission) or the “P” position
(automatics). Open the bonnet and remove
the engine oil filler cap from the valve cover,
then remove the oil level dipstick.
6 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands. Remove the front
right-hand roadwheel, then remove the plastic
panel under the wheelarch to provide
additional access to the oil filter. 

Warning: To avoid personal
injury, never get beneath the
vehicle when it is supported by
only by a jack. The jack provided

with your vehicle is designed solely for
raising the vehicle to remove and refit the
roadwheels. Always use axle stands to
support the vehicle when it becomes
necessary to place your body underneath
the vehicle.

7 Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust
components, place the drain pan under the
drain plug, and unscrew the plug. If possible,
try to keep the plug pressed into the sump
while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of
turns. As the plug releases from the threads,
move it away sharply, so the stream of oil
issuing from the sump runs into the pan, not
up your sleeve! Allow the oil to drain into the
drain pan, and check the condition of the
plug’s sealing washer; renew it if worn or
damaged.
8 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the pan as the oil flow slows to a trickle. When
the oil has completely drained, wipe clean the
drain plug and its threads in the sump and
refit the plug, tightening it securely.
9 On all engines except the 2.5 litre V6, the oil
filter renewal procedure is relatively simple;
proceed as follows. Reposition the drain pan
under the oil filter then, using a filter removal
tool, unscrew the oil filter from the housing; be
prepared for some oil spillage (see
illustration). Check the old filter to make sure
that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the
engine; if it has, carefully remove it. Withdraw

the filter, taking care to spill as little oil as
possible.
10 Using a clean, lint-free rag, wipe clean the
cylinder block around the filter mounting. If
there are no specific instructions supplied
with it, fit a new oil filter as follows. Apply a
light coating of clean engine oil to the filter’s
sealing ring. Screw the filter into position on
the engine until it seats, then tighten it through
a further half- to three-quarters of a turn only.
Tighten the filter by hand only - do not use any
tools.
11 On 2.5 litre V6 engines the filter is a
cartridge contained within the filter housing.
12 Reposition the drain pan under the filter
assembly and first, drain the filter by
unscrewing the drain plug on the side of the
housing (see illustration). Refit the plug when
the filter has drained. Now undo the three
retaining nuts and withdraw the baseplate
from the filter assembly. As you do this be
prepared for oil spillage and catch the filter
cartridge and its components, which will fall
out and probably land in the oil as the
baseplate is removed. Retrieve the filter lower
spring and the sealing ring on the baseplate.
13 Clean the baseplate thoroughly and wipe
around the inside of the filter housing using a
clean lint-free rag.
14 Locate the new sealing ring in the
baseplate, then fit the spring to the locating
lugs in the baseplate. Locate the filter in the
housing, and refit the baseplate. Screw on the
three nuts and tighten them securely.
15 Remove the old oil and all tools from
under the vehicle, refit the access panel and
roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the
ground.
16 Refill the engine with oil, using the correct
grade and type of oil, as given in the
“Lubricants, fluids and capacities” Section of
this Chapter. Pour in half the specified
quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for
the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil
a small quantity at a time, until the level is up

to the lower notch on the dipstick. Adding
approximately 0.5 to 1.0 litre will raise the
level to the dipstick’s upper notch.
17 Start the engine. The oil pressure warning
light will take a few seconds to go out while
the new filter fills with oil; do not race the
engine while the light is on. Run the engine for
a few minutes, while checking for leaks
around the oil filter seal and the drain plug.
18 Switch off the engine, and wait a few
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
more. With the new oil circulated and the filter
now completely full, recheck the level on the
dipstick, adding more oil as necessary.
19 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
reference to “General repair procedures” in
the Reference Section of this manual.

8

Underbonnet check for fluid
leaks and hose condition

2

Caution: Renewal of air conditioning hoses
must be left to a dealer service
department or air conditioning specialist
who has the equipment to depressurise
the system safely. Never remove air
conditioning components or hoses until
the system has been depressurised.

General

1 High temperatures in the engine
compartment can cause the deterioration of
the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine,
accessory and emission systems operation.
Periodic inspection should be made for
cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and
leaks.
2 Carefully check the large top and bottom
radiator hoses, along with the other smaller-
diameter cooling system hoses and metal
pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes
which run from the engine to the bulkhead.
Inspect each hose along its entire length,
replacing any that is cracked, swollen or
shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may
become more apparent if the hose is
squeezed.
3 Make sure that all hose connections are
tight. A leak in the cooling system will usually
show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits
on the areas adjoining the leak; if the spring
clamps that are used to secure the hoses in
this system appear to be slackening, they
should be renewed to prevent the possibility
of leaks.
4 Some other hoses are secured to their
fittings with clamps. Where clamps are used,
check that they haven’t lost their tension,
allowing the hose to leak. If clamps aren’t
used, make sure the hose has not expanded
and/or hardened where it slips over the fitting,
allowing it to leak.
5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain
plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs of
leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake
hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering

1•12

Every 6000 miles

7.12  Oil filter cartridge components on 

2.5 litre V6 engines

1 Engine oil drain plug
2 Oil filter housing drain plug
3 Baseplate retaining nuts
4 Baseplate
5 Oil filter cartridge
6 Spring locating lugs
7 Spring
8 Sealing ring

7.9  Using a filter removal tool, unscrew

the oil filter from the housing

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the
same place, close inspection of the ground
underneath it will soon show any leaks; ignore
the puddle of water which will be left if the air
conditioning system is in use. As soon as a
leak is detected, its source must be traced
and rectified. Where oil has been leaking for
some time, it is usually necessary to use a
steam cleaner, pressure washer or similar, to
clean away the accumulated dirt, so that the
exact source of the leak can be identified.

Vacuum hoses

6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses,
especially those in the emissions system, to
be numbered or colour-coded, or to be
identified by coloured stripes moulded into
them. Various systems require hoses with
different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance
and temperature resistance. When renewing
hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the
same material.
7 Often the only effective way to check a
hose is to remove it completely from the
vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be
sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure
correct installation.
8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to
include any plastic T-fittings in the 
check. Inspect the fittings for cracks, and
check the hose where it fits over the fitting 

for distortion, which could cause leakage.
9 A small piece of vacuum hose (quarter-inch
inside diameter) can be used as a
stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold
one end of the hose to your ear, and probe
around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening
for the “hissing” sound characteristic of a
vacuum leak. 

Warning: When probing with the
vacuum hose stethoscope, be
very careful not to come into
contact with moving engine

components such as the auxiliary
drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.

Fuel hoses

Warning: There are certain
precautions which must be
taken when inspecting or
servicing fuel system

components. Work in a well-ventilated
area, and do not allow open flames
(cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) or
bare light bulbs near the work area. Mop
up any spills immediately, and do not store
fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.
10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and
chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas
where the hose bends, and also just before
fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the
fuel filter.

11 High-quality fuel line, usually identified by
the word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on the
hose, should be used for fuel line renewal.
Never, under any circumstances, use
unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing
or water hose for fuel lines.
12 Spring-type clamps are commonly used
on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their
tension over a period of time, and can be
“sprung” during removal. Replace all spring-
type clamps with screw clamps whenever a
hose is replaced.

Metal lines

13 Sections of metal piping are often used
for fuel line between the fuel filter and the
engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping
has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks
have not started in the line.
14 If a section of metal fuel line must be
renewed, only seamless steel piping should
be used, since copper and aluminium piping
don’t have the strength necessary to
withstand normal engine vibration.
15 Check the metal brake lines where they
enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulic
unit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loose
fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls
for an immediate and thorough inspection of
the brake system.

Every 12 000 miles

1•13

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months, whichever occurs first

9

Cooling system check

1

1 The engine should be cold for the cooling
system checks, so perform the following
procedure before driving the vehicle, or after it
has been shut off for at least three hours.
2 Remove the expansion tank filler cap
(Section 3), and clean it thoroughly inside and
out with a rag. Clean the filler neck on the
expansion tank. The presence of rust or
corrosion in the filler neck indicates that the
coolant should be changed. The coolant
inside the expansion tank should be relatively
clean and transparent. If it is rust-coloured,
drain and flush the system, and refill with a
fresh coolant mixture.
3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and
heater hoses as described in  Section 8.
4 Inspect all other cooling system
components (joint faces, etc.) for leaks. A leak
in the cooling system will usually show up as
white- or rust-coloured deposits on the area
adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this
nature are found on system components,
renew the component or gasket with
reference to Chapter 3.
5 Clean the front of the radiator with a soft
brush to remove all insects, leaves, etc,
embedded in the radiator fins. Be careful not

to damage the radiator fins, or cut your fingers
on them.

10 Accelerator cable and

linkage check and
lubrication

1

1 From within the engine compartment check
the condition of the accelerator cable
ensuring that it isn’t kinked or trapped behind
any other components or fittings. Make sure
that all clips and cable ties are in place and
that the cable properly supported. Where
cruise control is fitted, check the cruise
control operating cable in the same way.
2 Operate the throttle by means of the
accelerator pedal and make sure that the
action is smooth without notchiness or
evidence of binding.
3 Finally, lubricate the throttle linkage and the
accelerator pedal pivot with a few drops of
light oil.

11 Spark plug renewal

1

Note: Spark plug renewal at this service
interval is only necessary on certain engines
without emission control equipment. On all

other engines the recommended interval for
spark plug renewal is every 24 000 miles or 
2 years. Consult the spark plug manufacturer
or a Rover dealer for their advice concerning
renewal intervals.

Spark plug check and renewal

1 It is vital for the correct running, full
performance and proper economy of the
engine that the spark plugs perform with
maximum efficiency. The most important
factor in ensuring this, is that the plugs fitted
are appropriate for the engine. The suitable
type is given in the Specifications Section at
the beginning of this Chapter, or in the
vehicle’s Owner’s Handbook. If this type is
used and the engine is in good condition, the
spark plugs should not need attention
between scheduled renewal intervals. Spark
plug cleaning is rarely necessary, and should
not be attempted unless specialised
equipment is available, as damage can easily
be caused to the firing ends.
2 Spark plug removal and refitting requires a
spark plug socket, with an extension which
can be turned by a ratchet handle or similar.
This socket is lined with a rubber sleeve, to
protect the porcelain insulator of the spark
plug, and to hold the plug while you insert it
into the spark plug hole. You will also need a
wire-type feeler gauge, to check and adjust
the spark plug electrode gap, and a torque

wrench to tighten the new plugs to the
specified torque (see illustration).
3 To remove the spark plugs, first open the
bonnet; the plugs are easily reached at the
top of the engine or on the front and rear
facing sides. Note how the spark plug (HT)
leads are routed and secured by clips, and on
some engines, how they’re positioned along
the channel in the cylinder head cover. To
prevent the possibility of mixing up spark plug
(HT) leads, it is a good idea to work on one
spark plug at a time.
4 If the marks on the original-equipment
spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark
the leads 1 to 4 (or 1 to 6), to correspond to
the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at
the timing belt end of the engine on 4-cylinder
engines, and at the timing belt end of the
engine on the rear bank under the brake
master cylinder on V6 engines).
5 On 4-cylinder engines, undo the bolts
securing the spark plug cover to the centre of
the cylinder head, noting the accelerator cable
support bracket on early engines. Lift off the
cover and again, on early engines, release the
HT lead grommet from the end of the cover.
6 On all engines, pull the leads from the plugs
by gripping the rubber boot, not the lead,
otherwise the lead connection may be
fractured.
7 Unscrew the spark plugs, ensuring that the
socket is kept in alignment with each plug - if
the socket is forcibly moved to either side, the
porcelain top of the plug may be broken off. If
any undue difficulty is encountered when
unscrewing any of the spark plugs, carefully

check the cylinder head threads and tapered
sealing surfaces for signs of wear, excessive
corrosion or damage; if any of these
conditions is found, seek the advice of a
dealer as to the best method of repair.
8 As each plug is removed, examine it as
follows - this will give a good indication of the
condition of the engine. If the insulator nose of
the spark plug is clean and white, with no
deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture.
9 If the tip and insulator nose are covered
with hard black-looking deposits, then this is
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should
the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture
being too rich.
10 If the insulator nose is covered with light
tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the
mixture is correct, and it is likely that the
engine is in good condition.
11 If you are renewing the spark plugs,
purchase the new plugs, then check each of
them first for faults such as cracked insulators
or damaged threads. Note also that,
whenever the spark plugs are renewed as a
routine service operation, the spark plug (HT)
leads should be checked as described below.
12 The spark plug electrode gap is of
considerable importance as, if it is too large or
too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency
will be seriously impaired. The gap should be
set to the value given in the Specifications
Section of this Chapter. New plugs will not
necessarily be set to the correct gap, so they
should always be checked before fitting.
13 Special spark plug electrode gap
adjusting tools are available from most motor
accessory shops.
14 To set the electrode gap, measure the gap
with a feeler gauge or adjusting tool, and then
bend open, or closed, the outer plug electrode
until the correct gap is achieved (see
illustrations). The centre electrode should
never be bent, as this may crack the insulation
and cause plug failure, if nothing worse. If the
outer electrode is not exactly over the centre
electrode, bend it gently to align them.
15 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that
the threaded connector
sleeves at the top of the plugs are tight, and
that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are

clean. Brown staining on the porcelain,
immediately above the metal body, is quite
normal, and does not necessarily indicate a
leak between the body and insulator.
16 On installing the spark plugs, first check
that the cylinder head thread and sealing
surface are as clean as possible; use a clean
rag wrapped around a paintbrush to wipe
clean the sealing surface. Apply a smear of
copper-based grease or anti-seize compound
to the threads of each plug, and screw them
in by hand where possible. 

17 When each spark plug is started correctly
on its threads, screw it down until it just seats
lightly, then tighten it to the specified torque
wrench setting.
18 Reconnect the spark plug (HT) leads in
their correct order, using a twisting motion on
the boot until it is firmly seated. On 4-cylinder
engines, refit the spark cover.

Spark plug (HT) lead and
distributor cap check

19 The spark plug (HT) leads should be
inspected one at a time, to prevent mixing up

1•14

Every 12 000 miles

11.14c  . . . then use the end of the special

tool to adjust the gap

11.14b  . . . or adjusting tool . . .

11.14a  Measure the spark plug gap with a

feeler gauge . . .

11.2  Tools required for spark plug

removal, gap adjustment and refitting

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Take extra care to enter the plug
threads correctly, as the cylinder head
is of aluminium alloy - it’s often difficult
to insert spark plugs into their holes
without cross-threading them. To avoid
this possibility, fit a short piece of hose
over the end of the spark plug. The
flexible hose acts as a universal joint,
to help align the plug with the plug
hole. Should the plug begin to cross-
thread, the hose will slip on the spark
plug, preventing thread damage.

the firing order, which is essential for proper
engine operation. Gain access to the leads
and disconnect them as described above for
the spark plug check and renewal.
20 Check inside the boot for corrosion, which
will look like a white crusty powder. Clean this
off as much as possible; if it is excessive, or if
cleaning leaves the metal connector too badly
corroded to be fit for further use, the lead
must be renewed. Push the lead and boot
back onto the end of the spark plug. The boot
should fit tightly onto the end of the plug - if it
doesn’t, remove the lead and use pliers
carefully to crimp the metal connector inside
the boot until the fit is snug.
21 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length
of the lead to remove built-up dirt and grease.
Once the lead is clean, check for burns,
cracks and other damage. Do not bend the
lead sharply, because the conductor might
break.
22 Inspect the remaining spark plug (HT)
leads, ensuring that each is securely fastened
at the distributor cap and spark plug when the
check is complete. If any sign of arcing,
severe connector corrosion, burns, cracks or
other damage is noticed, obtain new spark
plug (HT) leads, renewing them as a set. If
new spark plug leads are to be fitted, remove
and refit them one at a time, to avoid mix-ups
in the firing order.
23 Refer to Chapter 5 and remove the
distributor cap then thoroughly clean it inside
and out with a dry lint-free rag.
24 Examine the HT lead segments inside the
cap. If they appear badly burned or pitted
renew the cap. Also check the carbon brush
in the centre of the cap, ensuring that it is free
to move and stands proud of its holder. Make
sure that there are no sign of cracks or black
“tracking” lines running down the inside of the
cap, which will also mean renewal if evident.
Refit the cap as described in Chapter 5 on
completion.

12 Air cleaner element renewal

1

1 The air cleaner filter element is located in
the air cleaner assembly mounted on the left-

hand side of the engine compartment. Undo
the retaining screws and/or release the clips,
and lift the air cleaner cover, disconnecting
the vacuum hose where fitted. Lift the element
out of the housing, together with its support
frame on V6 engines, and wipe out the
housing (see illustrations). Check that no
foreign matter is visible, either in the air intake
or in the housing.
2 If carrying out a routine service, the element
must be renewed regardless of its apparent
condition. If you are checking the element for
any other reason, inspect its lower surface; if
it is oily or very dirty, renew the element. If it is
only moderately dusty, it can be re-used by
blowing it clean from the upper to the lower
surface with compressed air. 

Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
Because it is a pleated-paper
type filter, it cannot be washed

or re-oiled. If it cannot be cleaned
satisfactorily with compressed air, discard
and renew it. 
Caution: Never drive the vehicle with the
air cleaner filter element removed.
Excessive engine wear could result, and
backfiring could even cause a fire under
the bonnet.
3 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the element and cover
are securely seated, so that unfiltered air
cannot enter the engine.

13 Electrical system check

1

1 Check the operation of all external lights
and indicators (front and rear).
2 Check for satisfactory operation of the
instrument panel, its illumination and warning
lights, the switches and their function lights.
3 Check the horn(s) for satisfactory operation.
4 Check all other electrical equipment for
satisfactory operation.
5 Check all electrical wiring in the engine
compartment for correct routing, and for 
any signs of physical or heat-damage or
chafing.

14 Battery check, maintenance

and charging

2

Warning: Certain precautions
must be followed when
checking and servicing the
battery. Hydrogen gas, which is

highly flammable, is always present in the
battery cells, so keep lighted tobacco and
all other open flames and sparks away
from the battery. The electrolyte inside the
battery is actually dilute sulphuric acid,
which will cause injury if splashed on your
skin or in your eyes. It will also ruin clothes
and painted surfaces. When disconnecting
the battery, always detach the negative
(earth) lead first and connect it last!

Note: Before disconnecting the battery, refer
to Section 1 of Chapter 5.

General

1 A routine preventive maintenance
programme for the battery in your vehicle is
the only way to ensure quick and reliable
starts. Before performing any battery
maintenance, make sure that you have the
proper equipment necessary to work safely
around the battery.
2 There are also several precautions that
should be taken whenever battery
maintenance is performed. Before servicing
the battery, always turn the engine and all
accessories off, and disconnect the lead from
the negative terminal of the battery - see
Chapter 5, Section 1.
3 The battery produces hydrogen gas, which
is both flammable and explosive. Never create
a spark, smoke, or light a match around the
battery. Always charge the battery in a well-
ventilated area.
4 Electrolyte contains poisonous and
corrosive sulphuric acid. Do not allow it to get
in your eyes, on your skin, or on your clothes.
Never ingest it. Wear protective safety glasses
when working near the battery. Keep children
away from the battery.
5 Note the external condition of the battery. If
the positive terminal and lead clamp on your
vehicle’s battery is equipped with a plastic

Every 12 000 miles

1•15

12.1c  Lift the element out of the housing,

together with its support frame on V6 engines

12.1b  . . . and element on 4-cylinder

engines with single-point fuel injection

12.1a  Removing the air cleaner cover . . .

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

cover or rubber protector, make sure that it’s
not torn or damaged. It should completely
cover the terminal. Look for any corroded or
loose connections, cracks in the case or
cover, or loose hold-down clamps. Check the
entire length of each lead for cracks and
frayed conductors.
6 If corrosion, which looks like white, fluffy
deposits is evident, particularly around the
terminals, the battery should be removed for
cleaning as described in Chapter 5, Section 2.
7 Clean the lead clamps thoroughly, using a
soft wire brush or a terminal cleaner, with a
solution of warm water and baking soda.
Wash the terminals and the top of the battery
case with the same solution, but make sure
that the solution doesn’t get into the battery.
When cleaning the leads, terminals and
battery top, wear safety goggles and rubber
gloves, to prevent any solution from coming in
contact with your eyes or hands. Wear old
clothes too - even when diluted, acid
splashed onto clothes will burn holes in them.
Wash all cleaned areas with plain water.
8 Make sure that the battery tray is in good
condition and the hold-down clamp nuts are
tight. If the battery is removed from the tray,
make sure no parts remain in the bottom of
the tray when the battery is refitted. When
refitting the hold-down clamp nuts, do not
overtighten them.
9 Information on jump starting can be found
at the front of this manual. For more detailed
battery checking procedures, refer to the
Haynes “Automobile Electrical and Electronic
Systems Manual”.

Cleaning

10 Corrosion on the hold-down components,
battery case and surrounding areas can be
removed with a solution of water and baking
soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with
plain water.
11 Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged
by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-
based primer, then painted.

Charging

Warning: When batteries are
being charged, hydrogen gas,
which is very explosive and
flammable, is produced. Do not

smoke, or allow open flames, near a
charging or a recently-charged battery.
Wear eye protection when near the battery
during charging. Also, make sure the
charger is unplugged before connecting or
disconnecting the battery from the charger.
12 Slow-rate charging is the best way to
restore a battery that’s discharged to the
point where it will not start the engine. It’s also
a good way to maintain the battery charge in a
vehicle that’s only driven a few miles between
starts. Maintaining the battery charge is
particularly important in winter, when the
battery must work harder to start the engine,
and electrical accessories that drain the
battery are in greater use.

13 It’s best to use a one- or two-amp battery
charger (sometimes called a “trickle” charger).
They are the safest, and put the least strain on
the battery. They are also the least expensive.
For a faster charge, you can use a higher-
amperage charger, but don’t use one rated
more than 1/10th the amp/hour rating of the
battery (ie no more than 5 amps, typically).
Rapid boost charges that claim to restore the
power of the battery in one to two hours are
hardest on the battery, and can damage
batteries not in good condition. This type of
charging should only be used in emergency
situations.
14 The average time necessary to charge a
battery should be listed in the instructions that
come with the charger. As a general rule, a
trickle charger will charge a battery in 12 to 
16 hours.

15 Seat belt check

1

1 Check the seat belts for satisfactory
operation and condition. Inspect the webbing
for fraying and cuts. Check that they retract
smoothly and without binding into their reels.
2 Check that the seat belt mounting bolts are
tight, and if necessary tighten them to the
specified torque wrench setting (see Chap-
ter 11).

16 Auxiliary drivebelts check

and renewal

2

General

1 The number and type of auxiliary drivebelts
depends on the engine, year of manufacture,
and whether or not the vehicle is equipped
with air conditioning. The belt will be either a
V-belt or a flat, multi-ribbed (or “polyvee”)
type. All the drivebelts are located on the
right-hand end of the engine and are driven
from the crankshaft pulley. Early “M” series 
4-cylinder engines have an additional
drivebelt for the power steering pump, which
is driven from a pulley on the camshaft.

2 The good condition and proper tension of
the auxiliary drivebelts is critical to the
operation of the engine. Because of their
composition and the high stresses to which
they are subjected, drivebelts stretch and
deteriorate as they get older. They must,
therefore, be regularly inspected.

Check

3 With the engine switched off, open and
support the bonnet, then locate the auxiliary
drivebelts fitted to your car (Be very careful,
and wear protective gloves to minimise the
risk of burning your hands on hot
components, if the engine has recently been
running). For improved access, jack up the
front of the vehicle, support it securely on axle
stands, remove the roadwheel, then remove
the cover from inside the wheelarch.
4 Using an inspection light or a small electric
torch, and rotating the engine when necessary
with a spanner applied to the crankshaft
pulley bolt, check the whole length of the
drivebelt for cracks, separation of the rubber,
and torn or worn ribs. Also check for fraying
and glazing, which gives the drivebelt a shiny
appearance. Both sides of the drivebelt
should be inspected, and you will have to
twist the drivebelt to check the underside.
Use your fingers to feel the drivebelt where
you can’t see it. If you are in any doubt as to
the condition of the drivebelt, renew it.

Drivebelt tension - 4-cylinder
engines

Alternator drivebelt (early “M” series
engines)

5 Check that it is just possible to twist the
belt by hand through 90º at a point midway
between the two pulleys. If adjustment is
necessary, proceed as follows.
6 Slacken the two alternator adjustment
bracket bolts and the alternator pivot bolt and
nut (see illustrations).
7 Lever the alternator away from the engine
until the drivebelt is moderately tight. The
alternator must only be levered with care at
the drive end bracket. Hold the alternator in
this position and tighten the adjustment
bracket bolts and pivot nut and bolt.

1•16

Every 12 000 miles

16.6b  . . . and pivot bolt retaining nut on

early “M” series 4-cylinder engines

16.6a  Alternator adjustment bracket bolts

(arrowed) . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Power steering pump drivebelt (early
“M” series engines)

8 Refer to Chapter 4, Part A or B, and remove
the air cleaner components as necessary, for
access.
9 Undo the retaining screw and remove the
cover over the camshaft pulley (see illustration).
10 Undo the bolts securing the coolant
bypass pipe to the cylinder head and to the
main coolant pipe, and move the bypass pipe
aside as necessary for access.
11 To check and adjust the belt tension
accurately it will be necessary to obtain a
socket to fit the power steering pump pulley
retaining nut, a socket bar of at least 12 inches
in length, and a spring balance capable of
recording a minimum of 25 lbs. Make a paint
mark or similar on the socket bar, 12 inches up
from the centre of the square drive end.
12 Slacken the centre retaining nut on the
belt tensioner wheel, then turn the tension
adjuster bolt clockwise until the belt is slack.
Retighten the tensioner wheel retaining nut to
5.0 Nm.
13 Fit the socket and bar to the pump pulley
retaining nut, and position it so that the socket
bar is vertical.
14 Attach the spring balance to the socket
bar at the point marked 12 inches up from the
square drive end.
15 Turn the adjuster bolt anti-clockwise until
it takes a pull of 25 lbs to make the pump
pulley slip. This procedure is shown (see
illustration 16.9), but using the Rover special
tool. The socket and bar are a substitute for
this tool.
16 Remove the socket, bar and spring
balance, then turn the crankshaft until the
camshaft pulley has turned through 180º.
17 Check the belt tension again, and re-
adjust if necessary.
18 Now turn the tension adjuster bolt anti-
clockwise two complete turns.
19 Tighten the tensioner wheel retaining nut
fully to the specified torque.
20 Refit the coolant pipe retaining bolts, and
the cover over the camshaft pulley.
21 Refit the air cleaner components.

Alternator/power steering pump/air
conditioning compressor drivebelt
(later “M” series engines)

22 Accurate tensioning of the drivebelt on
cars with this arrangement can only be
achieved with the Rover belt tensioning tool,
and ideally this operation should be carried
out by a Rover dealer. However, if a new belt
has been fitted, or if the existing tension is
extremely slack, a rough approximation as a
temporary measure can be achieved using the
following procedure.
23 To adjust the belt tension, slacken the idler
pulley retaining nut, then turn the adjuster bolt
clockwise to increase the tension or anti-
clockwise to decrease it, until it is just possible
to twist the belt by hand through 90º at a point
midway between the crankshaft and power
steering pump pulleys (see illustration).

Every 12 000 miles

1•17

16.23  Drivebelt adjustment on later “M” series 4-cylinder engines

1 Drivebelt

2 Checking gauge - Rover

special tool

3 Idler pulley retaining nut
4 Adjuster bolt

16.9  Power steering pump drivebelt adjustment on early “M” series 4-cylinder engines

1 Camshaft pulley cover

retaining screw

2 Camshaft pulley cover
3 Coolant pipe retaining bolt

4 Coolant pipe
5 Drivebelt
6 Belt tensioner wheel centre

retaining nut

7 Tension adjuster bolt
8 Rover special tool for

checking tension

9 Spring balance

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

24 When the tension is correct, tighten the
idler pulley retaining nut to the specified
torque and lower the car to the ground.

Alternator/power steering pump/air
conditioning compressor drivebelt
(“T” series engines)

25 “T” series engines are fitted with an
automatic drivebelt tensioner incorporating a
wear indicator to show when the belt has
stretched too far for the tensioner to maintain
correct adjustment (see illustration).
26 To check the tension, observe the wear
indicator and make sure that the pointer has
not reached the right-hand end of the slot. If it
hasn’t, all is well, and no further action is
necessary; if it has, renew the belt.

Drivebelt tension - V6 engines

Alternator drivebelt

27 Undo the three bolts and one nut securing
the power steering pump and alternator pulley

covers to the top of the engine. Move the
pipes and cables clear and lift off the covers
(see illustration).
28 The belt tension is correct when it is just
possible to deflect the belt by 18 to 22 mm at
the mid-point of its run, under moderate finger
pressure. If adjustment is required, proceed
as follows.
29 Slacken the alternator side pivot bolt and
lower mounting nut, then turn the adjusting
bolt on the side of the unit as necessary to
achieve the correct tension (see
illustrations).
30 Tighten the pivot and mounting nuts and
bolts and refit the covers to the top of the
engine.

Power steering pump drivebelt

31 Undo the three bolts and one nut securing
the power steering pump and alternator pulley
covers to the top of the engine. Move the
pipes and cables clear and lift off the covers.

32 The belt tension is correct when it is just
possible to deflect the belt by 18 to 22 mm at
the mid-point of its run, under moderate finger
pressure. If adjustment is required, proceed
as follows.
33 Slacken the pump adjusting nut and
mounting bolt, then engage the end of a 
1/2 inch square drive socket bar in the hole at
the rear of the large lug on top of the pump
(see illustrations). Using the bar, move the
pump as necessary, until the belt tension is
correct, then tighten the adjusting and
mounting nut and bolt.

Air conditioning compressor drivebelt

34 The belt tension is correct when it is just
possible to deflect the belt by 7 to 9 mm at a
point mid-way between the crankshaft pulley
and the tensioner jockey wheel, under

1•18

Every 12 000 miles

16.33b  . . . then engage the end of a

socket bar in the lug on top of the pump to

adjust the belt

16.29a  . . . slacken the alternator side

pivot bolt (arrowed) . . .

16.33a  Slacken the V6 engine power

steering pump adjusting nut . . .

16.29b  . . . and lower mounting nut

(arrowed), then turn the adjusting bolt to

achieve the correct tension

16.27  On V6 engines, remove the pulley

covers over the top of the engine . . .

16.25  Drivebelt adjustment details on “T” series engines

1 Wheelarch cover retaining

bolts

2 Wheelarch cover
3 Tensioner wear indicator

4 Releasing the tensioner for

belt renewal

5 Drivebelt

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

moderate finger pressure. If adjustment is
required, proceed as follows.
35 Slacken the bolt in the centre of the
tensioner jockey wheel, then turn the
adjusting bolt, behind the adjuster, to obtain
the correct belt tension (see illustration).
When the adjustment is correct, tighten the
jockey wheel bolt.

Renewal - 4-cylinder engines

36 Open the bonnet, jack up the front of the
vehicle (where applicable) and support it
securely on an axle stands, remove the
roadwheel, then remove the cover from inside
the wheelarch.
37 The routing of the drivebelt around the
pulleys is dependant on the drivebelt type and
whether or not air conditioning is fitted. Before
removing the drivebelt, it’s a good idea to
sketch the belt run around the pulleys; this will
save a lot of frustration when it comes to
refitting.
38 If the existing drivebelt is to be refitted,
mark it, or note the maker’s markings on its
flat surface, so that it can be installed in the
same way.
39 To renew the drivebelt, slacken the belt
tension fully as described above according to
type, noting that where an automatic
tensioner is fitted, it is only necessary to turn
the tensioner centre bolt clockwise, using a
spanner, to release the belt tension. Slip the
belt off the pulleys then fit the new belt
ensuring that it is routed correctly. With the
belt in position, adjust the tension as
previously described, or simply release the
tensioner bolt.
40 Using a spanner applied to the crankshaft
pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft through at
least two full turns clockwise to settle the
drivebelt on the pulleys, then check that the
drivebelt is properly installed.
41 Refit the cover and roadwheel, then lower
the vehicle to the ground.

Renewal - V6 engines

42 Open the bonnet, jack up the front of the
vehicle (where applicable) and support it
securely on an axle stands, remove the
roadwheel, then remove the cover from inside
the wheelarch.

43 If the existing drivebelt is to be refitted,
mark it, or note the maker’s markings on its
flat surface, so that it can be installed the
same way.
44 Depending on which drivebelt is to be
renewed, it will probably be necessary to
remove one (or both) of the other drivebelts
first, to gain access. Note also, that if the
power steering pump drivebelt is to be
renewed, it will be necessary to support the
engine under the sump on a jack (with
interposed block of wood) and undo the two
bolts on the right-hand engine mounting, to
allow the belt to pass through.
45 To renew the drivebelt, slacken the belt
tension fully as described above according to
type. Slip the belt off the pulleys then fit the
new belt. With the belt in position, refit the
engine mounting bolts (where applicable) and
adjust the tension as previously described.
46 Using a spanner applied to the crankshaft
pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft through at
least two full turns clockwise to settle the
drivebelt on the pulleys, then check that the
drivebelt is properly installed.
47 Refit the cover and roadwheel, then lower
the vehicle to the ground.

17 Engine compartment wiring

check

2

1 With the vehicle parked on level ground,
apply the handbrake firmly and open the
bonnet. Using an inspection light or a small
electric torch, check all visible wiring within
and beneath the engine compartment.
2 What you are looking for is wiring that is
obviously damaged by chafing against sharp
edges, or against moving suspension/
transmission components and/or the auxiliary
drivebelts, by being trapped or crushed
between carelessly-refitted components, or
melted by being forced into contact with the
hot engine castings, coolant pipes, etc. In
almost all cases, damage of this sort is
caused in the first instance by incorrect
routing on reassembly after previous work has
been carried out.
3 Depending on the extent of the problem,
damaged wiring may sometimes be repaired
by rejoining the break or splicing-in a new
length of wire, using solder to ensure a good
connection, and remaking the insulation with
adhesive insulating tape or heat-shrink tubing,
as appropriate. If the damage is extensive,
given the implications for the vehicle’s future
reliability, the best long-term answer may well
be to renew that entire section of the loom,
however expensive this may appear.
4 When the actual damage has been
repaired, ensure that the wiring loom is re-
routed correctly, so that it is clear of other
components, and not stretched or kinked, and
is secured out of harm’s way using the plastic
clips, guides and ties provided.
5 Check all electrical connectors, ensuring

that they are clean, securely fastened, and
that each is locked by its plastic tabs or wire
clip, as appropriate. If any connector shows
external signs of corrosion (accumulations of
white or green deposits, or streaks of “rust”),
or if any is thought to be dirty, it must be
unplugged and cleaned using electrical
contact cleaner. If the connector pins are
severely corroded, the connector must be
renewed; note that this may mean the renewal
of that entire section of the loom - see your
local Rover dealer for details.
6 If the cleaner completely removes the
corrosion to leave the connector in a
satisfactory condition, it would be wise to
pack the connector with a material which will
exclude dirt and moisture, preventing the
corrosion from occurring again.
7 Check the condition of the battery
connections - remake the connections or
renew the leads if a fault is found. Use the
same techniques to ensure that all earth
points in the engine compartment provide
good electrical contact through clean, metal-
to-metal joints, and that all are securely
fastened.
8 Refer to Section 11 for details of spark plug
(HT) lead checks.

18 Air conditioning system

check

1

Warning: The air conditioning
system is under high pressure. Do
not loosen any fittings or remove
any components until after the

system has been discharged. Air conditioning
refrigerant must be properly discharged into
an approved type of container, at a dealer
service department or an automotive air
conditioning repair facility capable of
handling the refrigerant safely. Always wear
eye protection when disconnecting air
conditioning system fittings.
1 The following maintenance checks should
be performed on a regular basis, to ensure
that the air conditioner continues to operate at
peak efficiency:
(a) Check the auxiliary drivebelt. If it’s worn

or deteriorated, renew it (see Section 16).

(b) Check the system hoses. Look for cracks,

bubbles, hard spots and deterioration.
Inspect the hoses and all fittings for oil
bubbles and seepage. If there’s any
evidence of wear, damage or leaks, renew
the hose(s).

(c) Inspect the condenser fins for leaves,

insects and other debris. Use a “fin
comb” or compressed air to clean the
condenser. 

Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!

(d) Check that the drain tube from the front

of the evaporator is clear - note that it is
normal to have clear fluid (water) dripping

Every 12 000 miles

1•19

16.35  Air conditioning compressor

drivebelt tensioner jockey wheel bolt (A),

and adjusting bolt (B) on V6 engines

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

from this while the system is in operation,
to the extent that quite a large puddle can
be left under the vehicle when it is parked.

2 It’s a good idea to operate the system for
about 30 minutes at least once a month,
particularly during the winter. Long term non-
use can cause hardening, and subsequent
failure, of the seals.
3 Because of the complexity of the air
conditioning system and the special
equipment necessary to service it, in-depth
fault diagnosis and repairs are not included in
this manual. For more complete information
on the air conditioning system, refer to the
Haynes “Automotive Heating and Air
Conditioning Manual”.
4 The most common cause of poor cooling is
simply a low system refrigerant charge. If a
noticeable drop in cool air output occurs, the
following quick check will help you determine
if the refrigerant level is low.
5 Warm the engine up to normal operating
temperature.
6 Place the air conditioning temperature
selector at the coldest setting, and put the
blower at the highest setting. Open the doors
- to make sure the air conditioning system
doesn’t cycle off as soon as it cools the
passenger compartment.
7 With the compressor engaged - the clutch
will make an audible click, and the centre of
the clutch will rotate - feel the inlet and outlet
pipes at the compressor. One side should be
cold, and one hot. If there’s no perceptible
difference between the two pipes, there’s
something wrong with the compressor or the
system. It might be a low charge - it might be
something else. Take the vehicle to a dealer
service department or an automotive air
conditioning specialist.

19 Engine base idle speed and

CO content check

4

Refer to the appropriate Parts of Chapter 4.

20 Manual transmission oil level

check

1

1 The manual transmission does not have a
dipstick. To check the oil level, raise the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands,
making sure that the vehicle is level. On the
left-hand side of the transmission casing, to
the rear of the constant velocity joint, you will
see the filler/level plug. Wipe around the plug
with a rag, then unscrew and remove it. If the
level is correct, the oil should be up to the
lower edge of the hole.
2 If the transmission needs more lubricant (if
the oil level is not up to the hole), use a
syringe, or a plastic bottle and tube, to add
more  (see illustration). Stop filling the
transmission when the lubricant begins to run

out of the hole. Make sure that you refer to
“Lubricants, fluids and capacities” at the
beginning of this Chapter for the correct grade
of lubricant to use, according to transmission
type.
3 Refit the filler/level plug, and tighten it to the
specified torque wrench setting. Drive the
vehicle a short distance, then check for leaks.
4 A need for regular topping-up can only be
due to a leak, which should be found and
rectified without delay.

21 Steering, suspension and

roadwheel check

1

Front suspension and steering
check

1 Apply the handbrake, then raise the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers and
the steering gear gaiters for splits, chafing or
deterioration. Any wear of these components
will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt
and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration
of the balljoints or steering gear.
3 Check the power-assisted steering fluid
hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the
pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also
check for signs of fluid leakage under
pressure from the steering gear rubber
gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals
within the steering gear.
4 Check for signs of fluid leakage around the
shock absorber body, or from the rubber boot
around the piston rod (where fitted). Should
any fluid be noticed, the shock absorber is
defective internally, and renewal is necessary.
5 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it. Very
slight free play may be felt, but if the
movement is appreciable, further investigation
is necessary to determine the source.
Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant
depresses the footbrake. If the movement is
now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is
likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the
free play is still evident with the footbrake
depressed, then there is wear in the
suspension joints or mountings.

6 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 
3 o’clock positions, and try to rock it as
before. Any movement felt now may again be
caused by wear in the hub bearings or the
steering track rod balljoints. If the outer track
rod end balljoint is worn, the visual movement
will be obvious. If the inner joint is suspect, it
can be felt by placing a hand over the rack-
and-pinion rubber gaiter, and gripping the
track rod. If the wheel is now rocked,
movement will be felt at the inner joint if wear
has taken place.
7 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check
for wear in the suspension mounting bushes
by levering between the relevant suspension
component and its attachment point. Some
movement is to be expected as the mountings
are made of rubber, but excessive wear
should be obvious. Also check the condition
of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits,
cracks or contamination of the rubber.
8 With the vehicle standing on its wheels,
have an assistant turn the steering wheel
back-and-forth, about an eighth of a turn each
way. There should be very little, if any, lost
movement between the steering wheel and
roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely
observe the joints and mountings previously
described, but in addition, check the steering
column universal joints for wear, and also
check the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.
9 The efficiency of the shock absorber may
be checked by bouncing the car at each front
corner. Generally speaking, the body will
return to its normal position and stop after
being depressed. If it rises and returns on a
rebound, the shock absorber is probably
suspect. Examine also the shock absorber
upper and lower mountings for any signs of
wear.

Rear suspension check

10 Chock the front wheels, then raise the rear
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
11 Check the rear hub bearings for wear,
using the method described for the front hub
bearings (paragraph 4).
12 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar,
check for wear in the suspension mounting
bushes by levering between the relevant
suspension component and its attachment
point. Some movement is to be expected as
the mountings are made of rubber, but
excessive wear should be obvious. Check the
condition of the shock absorbers as
described previously.

Roadwheel check and balancing

13 Periodically remove the roadwheels, and
clean any dirt or mud from the inside and
outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for
signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage.
Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by
“kerbing” whilst parking, and similarly, steel
wheels may become dented or buckled.
Renewal of the wheel is very often the only
course of remedial action possible.
14 The balance of each wheel and tyre

1•20

Every 12 000 miles

20.2  Topping up the manual transmission

oil

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake