Rover 820, 825, 827. Repair Manual - part 4

distributor adaptor plate from the cylinder
head (see illustration).
11 Punch or drill two small holes opposite
each other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping
screw into each, and pull on the screws with
pliers to extract the seal.
12 Clean the seal location in the cylinder
head; polish off any burrs or raised edges,
which may have caused the seal to fail in the
first place.
13 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with
clean engine oil and carefully locate the seal
over the camshaft and into the cylinder head.
14 Using a tubular drift which bears on the
hard outer edge of the seal, drive the seal fully
into the head until it contact the inner land.
15 With the seal fully inserted in its housing,
refit the components removed for access then
refit the camshaft sprockets as described in
the previous Section.

Inlet camshaft oil seal

16 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 and
remove the air cleaner assembly and intake
trunking components as necessary for
access.
17 On cars with multi-point fuel injection,
undo the throttle housing retaining nuts,
withdraw the housing from the studs and
move it aside. Undo the two bolts and remove
the blanking plate or camshaft sensor
(turbocharged engines) from the cylinder head
(see illustration).
18 On cars fitted with a rear-mounted power
steering pump, remove the auxiliary drivebelt

as described in Chapter 1, remove the
camshaft pulley, then withdraw the spacer
behind the pulley. Undo the two nuts and two
bolts, and remove the power steering pulley
backplate.
19 The seal can now be removed and refitted
as described in paragraphs 11 to 15 above.

11 Camshafts and hydraulic

tappets - removal, inspection
and refitting

4

Removal

1 Remove the timing belt as described in the
Sections 7 or 8, according to engine type.
2 Remove the camshaft sprockets as
described in Section 9.
3 On early “M” series engines, undo the bolt
securing the timing belt idler pulley to the
cylinder head using an Allen key (see
illustration). Withdraw the pulley, noting that
there is a spacing washer fitted between the
pulley and cylinder head backplate.
4 Undo the four bolts and remove the
cylinder head backplate.
5 Undo the two retaining bolts, withdraw the
distributor cap, and place it to one side.
6 Undo the retaining Allen screw, and remove
the distributor rotor arm.
7 Undo the two screws and remove the
distributor adaptor plate from the cylinder
head.
8 On cars fitted with a rear-mounted power

steering pump driven off the inlet camshaft,
remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1, remove the camshaft pulley then
withdraw the spacer behind the pulley. Undo
the two nuts and two bolts, and remove the
power steering pulley backplate.
9 On cars fitted with a front-mounted power
steering pump, undo the two bolts and
remove the blanking plate or camshaft sensor
(turbocharged engines) from the cylinder
head.
10 Remove the camshaft covers as
described in Section 4.
11 Slacken the ten bolts securing each
camshaft housing to the cylinder head, then
remove all the bolts except two on each
housing at diagonally opposite corners. Make
sure that the heads of the bolts left in position
are at least 5.0 mm (0.2 in) clear of the
housing face. Note that two types of retaining
bolts are used to secure the camshaft
housings. The three bolts on the inner edge of
each housing nearest to the spark plugs are
plain bolts, while all the rest are patch bolts.
Patch bolts are of the micro-encapsulated
type, having their threads fitted with a
locking/sealing compound. Obtain new plain
and patch bolts prior to reassembly.
12 Using a plastic or hide mallet, carefully tap
up each housing to release it from the locating
dowels. When the housings are free, remove
the remaining bolts and lift off the two
housings (see illustration).
13 Carefully lift out the camshafts, and
remove the oil seals at each end. Identify each
camshaft, inlet or exhaust, with a label after
removal.
14 Have a box ready with sixteen internal
compartments, marked Inlet 1 to 8, and
Exhaust 1 to 8, or mark a sheet of card in a
similar way.
15 Lift out each tappet in turn, and place it
upside down in its respective position in the
box or on the card (see illustration). If the
tappets are difficult to remove by hand, use
the rubber sucker end of a valve grinding tool
to lift them out.
16 Prior to reassembly, obtain new camshaft
oil seals, a complete set of camshaft housing
retaining bolts, and a tube of Loctite seal-
ant 574.

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures  2A•11

11.3  Undo the timing belt idler pulley bolt

10.17  Undo the two bolts (arrowed) and

remove the blanking plate

10.10  Undo the two screws (arrowed) and

remove the distributor adaptor plate

11.15  Lift out the tappets and keep them

in order

11.12  Removing the exhaust camshaft

housing

2A

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Inspection

17 Clean and inspect the various
components removed for signs of excessive
wear.
18 Examine the camshaft bearing journals
and lobes for damage or wear. If evident, a
new camshaft must be fitted or one that has
been renovated by a company specialising in
exchange components.
19 The camshaft bearing bore diameters in
the cylinder head should be measured and
checked against the tolerances specified. A
gauge will be required for this but if not
available, check for excessive movement
between the camshaft journals and the
bearings. Alternatively, the Plastigage
method, described in Part C of this Chapter,
for main and big-end bearing running
clearance checks, can be used. If the
bearings are found to be unacceptably worn,
either a new camshaft or a new cylinder head
is required as the bearings are machined
directly in the head.
20 It is seldom that the hydraulic tappets are
badly worn in the cylinder head bores but
again, if the tappets are scored, or the bores
are found to be worn beyond an acceptable
level, either the tappet(s) or the complete
cylinder head must be renewed.
21 If the contact surface of the cam lobes
show signs of depression or grooving, note
that they cannot be renovated by grinding as
the hardened surface will be removed and the
overall length of the tappet(s) will be reduced.
The self-adjustment point of the tappet will be
exceeded as a result, so that the valve
adjustment will be affected and they will then
be noisy in operation. Therefore, renewal 
of the camshaft is the only remedy in this
case.

Refitting

22 Remove all traces of sealant from the
camshaft housing retaining bolt holes in the

cylinder head, using an M8 x 1.25 mm tap.
Alternatively, use one of the old bolts with two
file grooves cut into its threads. Also ensure
that there is no oil remaining at the bottom of
the bolt holes.
23 Thoroughly lubricate the tappet bores in
the cylinder head, and refit the tappets in their
original positions.
24 Lubricate the camshaft journals and
lobes, then place the camshafts in position.
Temporarily place the sprockets over the
ends of the camshafts, and position the
camshafts in the cylinder head so that the
sprocket timing marks are horizontal and
towards each other.
25 Lubricate the sealing lips of the new oil
seals, carefully ease them over the camshaft
journals, and position them against the
shoulder in the cylinder head (see illustration).
26 Apply a thin bead of Loctite sealant 574 to
the camshaft housing-to-cylinder head mating
face, then place both housings in position on
the cylinder head (see illustration).
27 Fit new housing retaining bolts (3 plain
bolts and 7 patch bolts for each housing) and
tighten them in the order shown (see
illustration). Note the locations of the two
types of bolt.

28 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of
removal. When the engine is finally started, be
prepared for a considerable rattle from the
tappets until they completely fill with oil. This
may take a few minutes, and will be more
pronounced if any of the tappets have been
renewed.

12 Cylinder head - 

removal and refitting

4

Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system.

Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or
bare light bulbs in or near the work area.
Don’t work in a garage where a natural
gas appliance (such as a clothes dryer or
water heater) is installed. If you spill petrol
on your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have
a fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires
handy, and know how to use it.

Single-point fuel injection
engines

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.
2 Remove the air cleaner, air box and intake
trunking as described in Chapter 4A.
3 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7 or 8, according to engine type.
4 Remove the camshaft covers as described
in Section 4.
5 Undo the nuts and separate the exhaust
front pipe from the manifold flange. Recover
the gasket.
6 Slacken the clips and disconnect the
radiator top hose, and the expansion tank
hose at the thermostat housing.
7 Disconnect the wiring multiplug at the
coolant temperature sensor.
8 Undo the brake servo vacuum hose banjo
union bolt on the right-hand side of the inlet
manifold, and recover the two copper
washers.
9 Slacken the clip and disconnect the heater
hose at the inlet manifold, behind the brake
servo vacuum hose.

2A•12 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

11.26  Apply sealant to the camshaft

housing mating face

11.25  Fitting the camshaft oil seals

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

11.27  Camshaft housing retaining bolt identification and tightening sequence

A  Patch bolt locations                  B  Plain bolt locations

10 Undo the bolt securing the stay bar to the
inlet manifold, below the heater hose.
11 Slacken the clips and disconnect the
heater bypass hose at the thermostat
housing.
12 Slacken the clip and disconnect the
heater hose at the other end of the bypass
pipe.
13 Undo the bolts securing the bypass pipe
to the exhaust manifold, cylinder head and
main coolant pipe, release the clips securing
the wiring harness, and remove the bypass
pipe from the engine (see illustration).
14 Slacken the clip and disconnect the
coolant hose at the left-hand end of the inlet
manifold.
15 Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the
inlet manifold, adjacent to the coolant hose.
Mark the location of each hose as it is
disconnected.
16 Undo the bolt securing the support
bracket to the inlet manifold, below the
vacuum hoses.
17 At the rear of the engine below the inlet
manifold, release the wire clip and detach the
breather hose from the top of the oil
separator. Also detach the hose from the
crankcase ventilation system diverter valve
(see illustration).
18 Disconnect the two wires to the inlet
manifold heater temperature sensor, on the
underside of the manifold, and the single lead
to the manifold heater at the wiring connector.
19 Slacken the accelerator cable locknuts,
and unscrew the lower locknut off the outer

cable end. Open the throttle at the throttle
cam, slip the cable end out of the cam slot,
and remove the cable from the support
bracket. Release the cable from the camshaft
cover support bracket, and place it clear of
the engine.
20 On automatic transmission models,
disconnect the kickdown cable, using the
same procedure as for the accelerator cable.
21 Disconnect the wiring multiplugs at the
idle speed stepper motor, the fuel injector,
and the throttle potentiometer. Move the
wiring harness clear of the cylinder head.
22 Place absorbent rags around the fuel filter
outlet union banjo bolt on the left-hand side of
the filter, then slowly unscrew the bolt to
release the fuel system pressure. Remove the
bolt and recover the two copper washers after
the pressure has been released. Tape over the
filter orifice and banjo union to prevent fuel
loss and dirt ingress.
23 Disconnect the fuel return hose at the
pipe below the fuel filter.
24 Remove the dipstick from the dipstick
tube.
25 On cars fitted with a rear-mounted power
steering pump, extract the circlip from the end
of the power steering pump drivebelt tension
adjuster bolt. Slide the adjuster rearwards,
and undo all the accessible bolts securing the
adjuster bracket to the cylinder head. Now
move the adjuster the other way, and undo
the remaining bolts, then remove the adjuster
assembly complete.
26 Progressively slacken all the cylinder head

retaining bolts, in the reverse sequence to that
shown  (see illustration 12.32c). Remove the
bolts when all have been slackened.
27 With the help of an assistant, lift the
cylinder head, complete with manifolds, off
the engine. If the head is stuck, it can be
carefully levered up using a large screwdriver
between the cylinder block and the protruding
cylinder head flanges. Do not insert the
screwdriver under the head-to-block mating
face. Place the head on blocks on the bench
to protect the valves.
28 Remove the cylinder head gasket from the
block.
29 Prior to refitting, ensure that the cylinder
block and head mating faces are thoroughly
clean and dry, with all traces of old gasket
removed. Clean the threads of the retaining
bolts, and remove any oil, water and thread
sealer from the bolt holes.

Refitting

30 Locate a new gasket over the dowels on
the cylinder block (see illustration).
31 Check that the crankshaft is still
positioned at the 90º BTDC position, and that
the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets
are aligned.
32 Lower the cylinder head assembly onto
the gasket, and refit the retaining bolts.
Working in the sequence shown, tighten the
retaining bolts in stages, to the specified
torque and angle settings given in the Specifi-
cations (see illustrations).
33 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures  2A•13

12.30  Locate a new cylinder head gasket

over the dowels

12.17  Detach the hose from the diverter

valve (arrowed)

12.13  Release the wiring harness clips

from the bypass pipe

12.32b  . . . then angle-tighten the bolts to

the specified angular setting

12.32a  Tighten the cylinder head bolts to

the specified torque . . .

2A

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

12.32c  Cylinder head bolt tightening

sequence

removal but refer to the relevant Sections 
and Chapters for adjustment details as
necessary.

Multi-point fuel injection
engines

Removal

34 Carry out the operations described in
Paragraphs 1 to 8.
35 On turbocharged engines remove the
exhaust manifold as described in the relevant
part of Chapter 4.
36 Slacken the clip and disconnect the
heater hose at the other end of the bypass
pipe.
37 Undo the bolts securing the bypass pipe
to the exhaust manifold, cylinder head and
main coolant pipe, and remove the bypass
pipe.
38 Slacken the clips and disconnect the two
coolant hoses from the underside of the
throttle housing.
39 At the rear of the engine, disconnect the
wiring multiplugs and leads at the crankshaft
sensor, knock sensor, oil pressure switch and
oil pressure transducer.
40 Disconnect the main engine wiring loom
multiplug(s) on the right-hand side valance as
necessary, to enable part of the loom to be
removed with the cylinder head.
41 Check that all the wiring likely to impede
removal of the cylinder head and its ancillaries
has been disconnected, and the harness
moved clear. It may be necessary to
disconnect additional wiring, depending on
options or additional equipment fitted.
42 Disconnect the breather hoses from the
oil separator.
43 Open the throttle fully by hand, and slip
the accelerator inner cable end out of the slot
on the throttle lever.
44 Slacken the outer cable locknuts, and
unscrew the outer locknut, nearest to the
cable end, fully. Remove the washer and
rubber bush, then withdraw the cable from the
support bracket.
45 On automatic transmission models,
disconnect the kickdown cable, using the
same procedure as for the accelerator cable.
46 Place absorbent rags around the fuel filter
outlet union banjo bolt on the left-hand side of
the filter, then slowly unscrew the bleed screw
in the centre of the bolt to release the fuel
system pressure. Tighten the bleed screw
when the pressure has been released. Undo
the outlet union banjo bolt, and recover the
two copper washers. Tape over the filter
orifice, and banjo union to prevent fuel loss
and dirt entry.
47 Unscrew the union nut and disconnect the
fuel return hose at the fuel pressure regulator,
on the left-hand side of the inlet manifold.
48 Remove the dipstick from the dipstick
tube.
49 On cars fitted with a rear-mounted power
steering pump, extract the circlip from the end
of the power steering pump drivebelt tension

adjuster bolt. Slide the adjuster rearwards,
and undo all the accessible bolts securing the
adjuster bracket to the cylinder head. Now
move the adjuster the other way, and undo
the remaining bolts, then remove the adjuster
assembly complete.
50 Progressively slacken all the cylinder head
retaining bolts, in the reverse sequence to that
shown (see illustration 12.32c). Remove the
bolts when all have been slackened.
51 With the help of an assistant, lift the
cylinder head, complete with manifolds, off
the engine. If the head is stuck, it can be
carefully levered up using a large screwdriver
between the cylinder block and the protruding
cylinder head flanges. Do not insert the
screwdriver under the head-to-block mating
face. Place the head on blocks on the bench
to protect the valves.
52 Remove the cylinder head gasket from the
block.
53 Prior to refitting, ensure that the cylinder
block and head mating faces are thoroughly
clean and dry, with all traces of old gasket
removed. Clean the threads of the retaining
bolts, and remove any oil, water and thread
sealer from the bolt holes.

Refitting

54 Locate a new gasket over the dowels on
the cylinder block.
55 Check that the crankshaft is still
positioned at the 90º BTDC position, and that
the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets
are aligned.
56 Lower the cylinder head assembly onto
the gasket, and refit the retaining bolts.
Working in the sequence shown, tighten the
retaining bolts in stages, to the specified
torque and angle settings given in the Specifi-
cations (see illustration 12.32c).
57 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of
removal but refer to the relevant Sections 
and Chapters for adjustment details as
necessary.

13 Sump - 

removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the car and support it on axle stands.
3 Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter
1.
4 Remove the exhaust front section with
reference to the appropriate Part of Chap-
ter 4.
5 Undo the bolts securing the longitudinal
support member to the underbody 
beneath the engine, and remove the 
member.
6 Disconnect the crankcase breather 

hose from the pipe stub on the side of the
sump.
7 Where applicable, release the turbocharger
oil return hose from the sump.
8 Slacken, then remove, the sump retaining
bolts, noting that the corner bolt on the drain
plug side at the flywheel end is longer than the
rest, and has a flat washer and elongated
washer in addition to the normal spring
washer (see illustration).
9 Withdraw the sump from the crankcase,
tapping it from side to side with a hide or
plastic mallet if it is stuck. Recover the sump
gasket.
10 If the oil pick-up tube and strainer are to
be removed, undo the two bolts securing the
tube flange to the crankcase, and the single
bolt securing the support bracket to the main
bearing cap (see illustration).
11 Slide the support bracket from under the
crankcase breather oil return pipe, and
remove the pick-up pipe and tube from the
crankcase. Recover the O-ring from the pick-
up pipe flange.
12 Clean the sump thoroughly, and remove
all traces of old gasket and sealant from the
mating faces of the sump and crankcase.
13 If removed, clean the pick-up pipe, and
the filter gauze in the strainer.

Refitting

14 Place a new O-ring seal on the pick-up
pipe flange, fit the pipe and strainer assembly,
and secure with the retaining bolts, 

2A•14 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

13.8  Sump special retaining bolt 

location

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

13.10  Undo the two pick-up pipe-to-

crankcase bolts

tightened to the specified torque (see
illustration).
15 Apply a bead of RTV sealant to the joint
between Nos 1 and 5 main bearing caps and
the edge of the crankcase (see illustration).
Apply gasket sealant to the sump and
crankcase mating faces, then place a new
gasket in position.
16 Refit the sump, and tighten the retaining
bolts progressively, and in sequence, to the
specified torque (see illustration).
17 Refit the crankcase breather hose and
turbocharger oil return hose.
18 Refit the exhaust front section as
described in Chapter 4.
19 Refit the longitudinal support member.
20 Lower the car to the ground, reconnect
the battery and fill the engine with oil as
described in Chapter 1.

14 Oil pump - 

removal and refitting

4

Removal

1 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7 or 8 according to engine type. On
“T” series engines also remove the timing belt
tensioner as described in Section 9.
2 Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter
as described in Chapter 1.
3 On early “M” series engines, remove the
starter motor as described in Chapter 5. Using

a socket and long handle, slacken the
crankshaft pulley centre retaining bolt. Lock
the flywheel ring gear, through the starter
motor aperture, using a large screwdriver or
similar tool to prevent the crankshaft rotating
as the pulley bolt is undone. Remove the bolt
and withdraw the pulley.
4 On later “M” series engines and all “T”
series engines, withdraw the sprocket from
the crankshaft.
5 Remove the Woodruff key from the slot in
the crankshaft.
6 Unscrew the oil pipe unions on the side of
the filter housing, then undo the bolt securing
the oil pipe retaining clip and timing belt
backplate to the crankcase (see illustration).
Where fitted unscrew the oil cooler feed and
return pipe unions from the pump housing.
7 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the
timing belt lower backplate.
8 Undo the housing retaining bolts, and
withdraw the assembly from the crankshaft
and crankcase (see illustration). Recover the
gasket.

Refitting

9 Ensure that the pump housing and
crankcase mating faces are thoroughly clean,
with all traces of old gasket and sealer
removed.
10 Apply a bead of RTV sealant to the
vertical joint between the main bearing cap
and the crankcase, and smear jointing
compound to both faces of a new gasket.
Place the gasket in position on the crankcase.

11 Lubricate the lip of the oil seal, then locate
the pump housing in place.
12 Fit the retaining bolts, and tighten them to
the specified torque.
13 Refit the timing belt lower backplate.
14 Reconnect the oil pipe and where
applicable, the oil cooler unions, and refit the
pipe support clip retaining bolt.
15 Place the Woodruff key in its crankshaft
groove, then refit the crankshaft pulley,
retaining bolt and washer.
16 Refit the crankshaft sprocket on later “M”
series engines and all “T” series engines.
17 On early “M” series engines, refit the
crankshaft pulley and tighten the retaining bolt
to the specified torque. Prevent the crankshaft
rotating using the same method as used for
removal when tightening the bolt. Refit the
starter motor as described in Chapter 5.
18 Refit the timing belt as described in
Section 7 or 8 as applicable.
19 Fit a new oil filter, and fill the engine with
oil as described in Chapter 1.

15 Oil pump - dismantling,

inspection and reassembly

3

Dismantling

1 With the pump housing removed from the
engine, undo the four Torx retaining bolts on
the housing rear face, and lift off the pump
cover (see illustration).

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures  2A•15

13.16  Sump retaining bolt tightening

sequence

13.15  Apply sealant to the main bearing

cap joints

13.14  Fit a new O-ring to the pick-up pipe

flange

15.1  Oil pump cover retaining bolts

(arrowed)

14.8  Oil pump housing retaining bolts

(arrowed)

14.6  Undo the bolt securing the oil pipe

retaining clip and timing belt backplate

2A

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

H28968

2 To remove the pressure relief valve
components, extract the split pin and
withdraw the plug cap, spring and relief valve
plunger (see illustration).
3 Using a screwdriver, prise out the
crankshaft front oil seal from the oil pump
housing.

Inspection

4 Inspect the condition of the inner and outer
rotors for visual signs of scoring or wear
ridges. Note that the pump internal parts are
not available separately, and if there is any
sign of wear, a complete new oil pump and
housing assembly must be obtained.
5 Check the plunger for scoring or wear
ridges, and renew if necessary. Also renew
the plug cap O-ring if it shows signs of
deterioration.

Reassembly

6 Liberally lubricate the pump rotors to prime
the pump, then refit the pump cover and
secure with the four Torx bolts.
7 Lubricate the relief valve components with
engine oil, then refit the plunger, spring and
plug cap. Secure the cap with a new split pin.
8 Place a new oil seal in position, and
carefully tap it home with the aid of a mallet,
block of wood and the old oil seal.

16 Crankshaft oil seals - 

renewal

4

Front oil seal

1 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 7 or 8, according to engine type.
2 On early “M” series engines, remove the
starter motor as described in Chapter 5. Using
a socket and long handle, slacken the
crankshaft pulley centre retaining bolt. Lock
the flywheel ring gear, through the starter
motor aperture, using a large screwdriver or
similar tool to prevent the crankshaft rotating
as the pulley bolt is undone. Remove the bolt
and withdraw the pulley.
3 On later “M” series engines and all “T”
series engines, withdraw the sprocket from
the crankshaft.

4 Remove the Woodruff key from the slot in
the crankshaft.
5 Punch or drill two small holes opposite
each other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping
screw into each, and pull on the screws with
pliers to extract the seal.
6 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
7 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean
engine oil and carefully locate the seal over
the crankshaft and into the housing.
8 Using a tubular drift which bears on the
hard outer edge of the seal, drive the seal into
the housing until it is flush with the housing
face.
9 Refit the Woodruff key to the crankshaft.
10 On later “M” series engines and all “T”
series engines, refit the sprocket to the
crankshaft.
11 On early “M” series engines, refit the
crankshaft pulley and tighten the retaining bolt
to the specified torque. Prevent the crankshaft
rotating using the same method as used for
removal when tightening the bolt. Refit the
starter motor as described in Chapter 5.
12 Refit the timing belt as described in
Section 7 or 8 as applicable.

Rear oil seal

13 Remove the flywheel/driveplate as
described in Section 17.

“M” series engines

14 Punch or drill two small holes opposite
each other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping
screw into each, and pull on the screws with
pliers to extract the seal.
15 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
16 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with
clean engine oil and carefully locate the seal
on the end of the crankshaft.
17 Using a tubular drift which bears on the
hard outer edge of the seal, drive the seal into
the housing until it is flush with the housing
face.
18 Clean off any surplus oil then refit the
flywheel/driveplate as described in Sec-
tion 17.

“T” series engines

19 Drain the engine oil as described in
Chapter 1.
20 Slacken all the sump securing bolts in a
progressive sequence, but do not slacken the
three at the timing belt end.
21 Completely remove the two bolts at the
other end, securing the sump to the oil seal
carrier.
22 Undo the five bolts and carefully remove
the oil seal carrier from the cylinder block
dowels and crankshaft. Take great care not to
damage the sump gasket as the carrier is
removed.
23 Note that the oil seal carrier and the oil
seal itself, are supplied as an assembly; the
seal is not available separately.

24 Before refitting, inspect the sump gasket;
if it was damaged in any way during removal it
must be renewed.
25 Clean the end of the crankshaft, and
polish off any burrs or raised edges, which
may have caused the seal to fail in the first
place.
26 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with
clean engine oil and carefully locate the seal
on the end of the crankshaft.
27 Push the oil seal carrier into position over
the locating dowels and refit the retaining
bolts. Progressively tighten the carrier bolts to
the specified torque, starting with the two at
the bottom, then the two in the centre, and
finally the one at the top.
28 Tighten the sump bolts to the specified
torque, in the correct sequence (see Sec-
tion 13).
29 Refit the flywheel/driveplate as described
in Section 17. Refill the engine with oil on
completion of refitting, and check for leaks
around the sump flange when the engine is
run.

17 Flywheel/driveplate -

removal, inspection and
refitting

3

Removal

1 With the engine removed from the car and
separated from the transmission, or with the
transmission removed as described in
Chapter 7, remove the clutch assembly
(manual transmission) as described in Chapter
6.
2 Where fitted, knock back the tabs of the
locking plate, using a screwdriver or small
chisel, and undo the six flywheel/driveplate
retaining bolts. Note that the retaining bolts
are of the encapsulated type, incorporating a
locking compound in their threads, and new
bolts must be obtained for reassembly.

3 Lift off the locking plate, then withdraw the
flywheel/driveplate from the crankshaft. On
automatic transmission models, recover the
spacer from the end of the crankshaft.

Inspection

4 Inspect the starter ring gear on the flywheel
or driveplate for wear or broken teeth. If
evident, the ring gear should be renewed. On
automatic transmission models, the ring gear
is bolted to the driveplate, and renewal is
straightforward. On manual transmission
models however, the ring gear is a shrink fit
on the flywheel, and renewal entails drilling

2A•16 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

15.2  Oil pressure relief valve 

components

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

To prevent the flywheel
turning, lock the ring gear
teeth using a small strip of
angle iron engaged in the

teeth and against the adaptor plate
dowel.

the old ring then splitting it with a chisel. The
new ring must then be heated so that it
expands slightly, and allowed to cool when in
position on the flywheel. As it cools, it
contracts to a smaller diameter than the
flywheel so as to provide a tight interference
fit. The temperatures involved in this operation
are critical to avoid damaging the ring gear,
and the work should be carried out by a Rover
dealer or motor engineering works.
5 The clutch friction surface on the flywheel
should be checked for grooving or cracks, the
latter being caused by overheating. If these
conditions are evident, renewal of the flywheel
is necessary.
6 On manual and automatic transmission
models, check the condition of the reluctor
ring teeth. If any are bent, broken. or in any
way damaged, renew the ring, which is bolted
to the flywheel or driveplate.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the new bolts to the specified torque, 
then bend over the tabs of a new locking
plate.

18 Engine/transmission

mountings - 
inspection and renewal

1

Inspection

1 The engine/transmission mountings seldom
require attention, but broken or deteriorated
mountings should be renewed immediately, or
the added strain placed on the driveline
components may cause damage or wear (see
illustration).
2 During the check, the engine/transmission
unit must be raised slightly, to remove its
weight from the mountings.
3 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands. Position a jack under
the sump, with a large block of wood between
the jack head and the sump, then carefully
raise the engine/transmission just enough to
take the weight off the mountings.
4 Check the mountings to see if the rubber is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal components. Sometimes the rubber will
split right down the centre.
5 Check for relative movement between each
mounting’s brackets and the engine/
transmission or body (use a large screwdriver
or lever to attempt to move the mountings). If
movement is noted, lower the engine and
check-tighten the mounting fasteners.

Renewal

Front mounting

6 Remove the battery as described in
Chapter 5, then undo the retaining bolts and
remove the battery tray.
7 Remove the air cleaner assembly as
described in the relevant part of Chapter 4.

8 Undo the nut securing the mounting to the
engine mounting bracket, and the two bolts
securing the mounting to the front chassis
member.
9 Using a jack and interposed block of wood,
raise the engine slightly until the mounting
stud can be withdrawn from the bracket, then
remove the mounting from the car.
10 Renew the mounting if it shows any sign
of damage, contamination or separation of the
rubber-to-metal bond.
11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the small peg on the mounting top
face engages with the hole in the bracket, and
tighten the bolts and nut to the specified
torque (Chapter 2, Part C).

Rear mounting

12 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
intake trunking as described in the relevant
part of Chapter 4.
13 Jack up the front of the car and support it
on axle stands.
14 Undo the bolts and remove the
longitudinal support member from beneath
the engine.
15 Support the engine and transmission

assembly on a jack with interposed block of
wood.
16 Undo and remove all the nuts and bolts
securing the mounting to its mounting bracket
and chassis member, and the mounting
bracket to the engine.
17 Withdraw the mounting bracket from
below, followed by the mounting. If there is a
spacer located between the mounting and
mounting bracket, retain this for refitting with
the existing mounting, but discard it if the
mounting is being renewed.
18 Renew the mounting if it shows any sign
of damage, contamination or separation of the
rubber-to-metal bond.
19 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the small peg on the mounting top
face engages with the hole in the bracket, and
tighten the bolts and nut to the specified
torque (Chapter 2, Part C).

Right-hand mounting

20 Position a jack and interposed block of
wood under the sump, and just take the
weight of the engine.
21 Undo the bolts securing the power
steering pipe support brackets, and move the

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures  2A•17

18.1  Engine mounting components (manual transmission shown - automatic

transmission similar)

2A

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

pipes slightly to gain access to the right-hand
mounting.
22 Undo the mounting through-bolt, and
recover the special nut. Note that the forked
end of the nut plate locates over a stud on the
body bracket.
23 Undo the two bolts and remove the
mounting and snubber plates from the
bracket on the engine.
24 Renew the mounting if it shows any sign
of damage, contamination or separation of the
rubber-to-metal bond.
25 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
tighten the bolts to the specified torque
(Chapter 2, Part C). Ensure that the mounting
is correctly orientated when fitting, with its
central casting web facing upwards.

Rear tie-bar

26 On cars equipped with single-point fuel
injection, remove the air cleaner assembly as
described in Chapter 4A.
27 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1, then disconnect the heater hoses
and coolant hoses in the vicinity of the tie-bar
as necessary to provide access.
28 Undo the two through-bolts securing the
tie-bar to its mounting brackets. Note that at
the larger end of the tie-bar, the through-bolt

is retained by a forked nut which engages
over a peg on the engine bracket.
29 Using a screwdriver if necessary, prise the
tie-bar from its brackets and remove it from
the car.
30 Renew the tie-bar if it shows any sign of
damage, contamination or separation from
the rubber-to-metal bond.
31 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the tie-bar is positioned with the
word TOP, on the larger end of the bar,
uppermost. Tighten the through-bolts to the
specified torque (Chapter 2, Part C), then refit
the air cleaner as described in Chapter 4A.
Refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1 on completion.

Snubber

32 Jack up the front of the car and support it
on axle stands.
33 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the
longitudinal support member from under the
engine.
34 Undo the nuts and remove the backing
plate and snubber from the longitudinal
support member.
35 If required, undo the nuts and bolts and
remove the snubber bracket from the
transmission adaptor plate.
36 Renew the snubber if it shows any sign of

damage, contamination or separation of the
rubber-to-metal bond. Check also for signs of
wear on the snubber bracket, and renew if
necessary.
37 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Centralise the snubber in its bracket before
tightening the bolts and nuts to the specified
torque (Chapter 2, Part C).

Lower tie-bar

38 Jack up the front of the car and support it
on axle stands.
39 Undo the two through-bolts securing the
tie-bar to its mounting brackets. Note that at
the larger end of the tie-bar, the through-bolt
is retained by a forked nut which engages
over a peg on the mounting bracket.
40 Using a screwdriver if necessary, prise the
tie-bar from its brackets and remove it from
the car.
41 Renew the tie-bar if it shows any signs of
damage, contamination or separation of the
rubber-to-metal bond.
42 Refitting is the reverse sequence to
removal, but ensure that the tie-bar is
positioned with the letters BTM, on the larger
end of the bar, facing downwards, and tighten
the through-bolts to the specified torque
(Chapter 2, Part C).

2A•18 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

2B

General

Engine type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

V6, single overhead camshaft per bank

Engine code:

2.5 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

C25A

2.7 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

C27A

Capacity:

2.5 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2496 cc

2.7 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2675 cc

Bore:

2.5 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

84 mm

2.7 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

87.0 mm

Stroke (all engines)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75.0 mm

Compression ratio:

2.5 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9.6:1

2.7 litre engines:

Non-catalyst equipped engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9.4:1

Catalyst equipped engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9.0:1

Firing order  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1-4-2-5-3-6 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end on rear bank)

Direction of crankshaft rotation  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Radial clearance on rocker shaft  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.08 mm maximum

Cylinder head

Maximum gasket face distortion  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.2 mm

Camshafts and hydraulic tappets

Camshaft endfloat  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.05 to 0.15 mm

Camshaft bearing running clearance:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.045 to 0.081 mm

Used  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.10 mm maximum

Hydraulic tappet seating stroke  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.08 mm maximum

Chapter 2  Part B: V6 engine – 
in-car engine repair procedures

Auxiliary drivebelts check and renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Camshaft and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and refitting 15
Camshaft covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

Camshaft oil seals - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Compression test - description and interpretation  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Cylinder head - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Cylinder head, rocker gear and valve assemblies - cleaning and 

inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2C

Cylinder head side covers - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

Engine oil and filter change  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Engine oil level check  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Engine overhaul - general information  . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2C
Engine/transmission - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2C
Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal  . . . . . . . . 21

Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

Exhaust valve rocker clearances - adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . 22
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

Inlet manifold - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

Oil cooler and filter head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Oil pump - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle  . . . . . . . .

2

Spark plug renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection and 

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Top Dead Centre (TDC) for number 1 piston - locating  . . . . . . . . . .

4

Water pump - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 3

2B•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1

Lubrication

Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

See Chapter 1

Engine oil capacity  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

See Chapter 1

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Cylinder head bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

68

50

Cylinder head side cover bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12

9

Timing belt cover bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12

9

Timing belt backplate bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12

9

Timing belt tensioner bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

43

32

Camshaft sprocket bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

32

24

Camshaft carrier bolts:

4 bolts at  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12

9

2 bolts at  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

28

21

Oil gallery bolts:

8 bolts at  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

28

21

2 bolts at  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12

9

Crankshaft pulley centre bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

115

85

Driveplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75

55

Flywheel bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

105

78

Filter head bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

22

16

Main bearing caps:

Bolts 1 to 8  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41

30

Bolts 9 to 16  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

68

50

Bolts 17 to 24  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50

37

Big-end bearing caps  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50

37

Oil cooler centre bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50

37

Oil pump housing bolts:

M6 bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12

9

M8 bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

22

16

Oil pick-up pipe bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12

9

Sump nuts and bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12

9

Rocker arm guide plate bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12

9

Inlet manifold retaining nuts and bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

22

16

Exhaust manifold retaining nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12

9

Front engine mounting to transmission bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80

59

Front engine mounting bracket to transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

40

30

Rear engine mounting bracket to transmission  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

40

30

Right-hand engine mounting through-bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Right-hand engine mounting to engine bracket  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

60

44

Right-hand engine mounting bracket to engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Engine rear tie-bar to mounting bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75

55

Engine rear tie-bar mounting bracket bolts:

M10 bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

M12 bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

85

63

Engine rear tie-bar through-bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

85

63

Longitudinal support member to underbody  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Engine snubber bracket to transmission  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

2B•2 V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1

General information

How to use this Chapter

1 This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair
procedures possible while the engine is still
installed in the car, and includes only the
Specifications relevant to those procedures.
Since these procedures are based on the
assumption that the engine is installed in the
car, if the engine has been removed and
mounted on a stand, some of the preliminary
dismantling steps outlined will not apply.
2 Information concerning engine / trans-

mission removal and refitting, and engine
overhaul, can be found in Part C of this
Chapter, which also includes the
Specifications relevant to those procedures.

Engine description

3 The V6 engine fitted to Rover 825, 827 and
Sterling models is a water-cooled, six-
cylinder, four-stroke petrol engine, of single
overhead camshaft configuration per bank,
and 2494 cc (2.5 litre) or 2675 cc (2.7 litre)
capacity. The larger capacity being achieved
by an increase in cylinder bore diameter. The
2.5 litre engine was fitted to Rover 825 models
from 1986 until 1988, to be replaced by the
2.7 litre engine which is currently still in
production.

4 The combined crankcase and cylinder
block is of die-cast aluminium alloy
construction, and houses the pistons,
connecting rods and crankshaft. The solid
skirt cast aluminium alloy pistons have two
compression rings and an oil control ring, and
are retained on the connecting rods by semi-
floating gudgeon pins which are an
interference fit in the connecting rods. The
forged steel connecting rods are attached to
the crankshaft by renewable shell type big-
end bearings. The crankshaft is carried in four
main bearings, also of the renewable shell
type. Crankshaft endfloat is controlled by
thrust washers which are located on either
side of No 3 main bearing.
5 A single overhead camshaft is located in

each cylinder head, and is retained in position
by a housing bolted to the cylinder head
upper face. The camshafts are supported by
bearing journals machined directly into the
head and housings. Drive to the camshafts is
by an internally-toothed composite rubber
timing belt, from a sprocket on the front end
of the crankshaft. The belt also drives the
water pump pulley, and an automatic
tensioner is fitted to eliminate backlash and
prevent slackness of the belt.
6 The camshafts operate slippers which pivot
on hydraulic tappets, one for each valve. The
inlet valves are operated directly from the
camshaft slippers, whereas the exhaust
valves are operated indirectly from the
camshaft slippers by pushrods and adjustable
rocker arms (see illustration).
7 The engine utilizes four valves per cylinder,
mounted at an inclined angle, and running in
guides which are pressed into the cylinder
head. The valves are of small diameter, to
improve breathing efficiency and reduce valve
mass.
8 The distributor is attached to the rear of the
front facing cylinder head and is driven off the
rear of the camshaft. The power steering
pump and alternator are mounted on top of
the engine and driven by separate drivebelts
from the crankshaft pulley.
9 Blow-by gases from the crankcase are
vented by a positive crankcase ventilation
system back into the intake air stream for
combustion.
10 The pressed-steel sump is attached to the
underside of the crankcase, and acts as a
reservoir for the engine oil. The oil pump

draws oil through a strainer attached to the
pick-up pipe and submerged in the oil. The
pump passes the oil along a passage and into
the full-flow filter and oil cooler assembly,
mounted on the front of the engine. The
filtered oil flows from the filter and enters the
main cylinder block oil gallery, which feeds
the crankshaft main bearings. Oil passes from
the main bearings, through drillings in the
crankshaft to the big-end bearings.
11 A drilling from the main oil gallery feeds
the cylinder head gallery, where the oil is
directed to the camshaft bearings, cams and
cam slippers, and to the hydraulic tappets,
rocker arm pivots and rocker arm shafts. The
oil then drains back into the sump via large
drillings in the cylinder head and cylinder
block.
12 A pressure relief valve is incorporated in
the oil pump, to maintain the oil pressure
within specified limits.
13 Apart from minor development
differences, both the 2.5 and 2.7 litre versions
of the engine are mechanically identical.

2

Repair operations possible
with the engine in the vehicle

The following operations can be carried out
without having to remove the engine from the
car:
(a) Compression pressure - testing.
(b) Removal and refitting of the timing belt.
(c) Removal and refitting of the camshaft and

tappets.

(d) Removal and refitting of the cylinder

head.

(e) Removal and refitting of the sump.
(f)

Removal and refitting of the big-end
bearings.*

(g) Removal and refitting of the piston and

connecting rod assemblies.*

(h) Removal and refitting of the oil pump.
(i)

Removal and refitting of the engine
mountings.

(j)

Removal and refitting of the flywheel or
driveplate (after first removing the
transmission).

* In extreme cases caused by a lack of necessary
equipment, repair or renewal of piston rings,
pistons, connecting rods and big-end bearings is
possible with the engine in the vehicle. However,
this practice is not recommended, because of
the cleaning and preparation work that must be
done to the components involved, and because
of the amount of preliminary dismantling work
required - these operations are therefore
covered in Part C of this Chapter.

Precautionary note

Due to the layout of the V6 engine, and the

very limited space available in the engine
compartment, access to most components is
extremely limited. Although it is physically
possible to carry out the operations described
above with the engine in the car, the space

restrictions, the number of components that
need to be removed for access, and the
complications involved when working on an
engine of this complexity, may present
unforseen difficulties.

Read through all the relevant procedures

and familiarize yourself with what’s involved
before proceeding; in many instances, it may
actually be easier to remove the engine from
the car, and carry out the repair with the unit
on the bench. Strictly speaking, much of the
work described in this Chapter is not for the
faint-hearted, and should really only be
undertaken by the more experienced DIY
owner.

3

Compression test -
description and interpretation

Refer to Part A, Section 3.

4

Top Dead Centre (TDC) for
number 1 piston - locating

2

General

1 Top Dead Centre (TDC) is the highest point
that each piston reaches as the crankshaft
rotates. While each piston reaches TDC both
at the top of the compression stroke and
again at the top of the exhaust stroke, for the
purpose of timing the engine, TDC refers to
the piston position (usually No 1 piston) at the
top of its compression stroke.
2 It is useful for several servicing procedures
to be able to position the engine at TDC.
3 No 1 piston and cylinder are at the right-
hand (timing belt) end of the engine (right- and
left-hand are always as seen from the driver’s
seat), on the rear bank (ie under the brake
master cylinder). The crankshaft rotates
clockwise when viewed from the right-hand
side of the vehicle.

Locating TDC

4 Remove the small plastic plug from the
viewing hole on the front of each timing belt
upper cover (see illustration).

V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures  2B•3

1 Camshaft
2 Hydraulic tappet
3 Inlet valves
4 Inlet valve slippers
5 Exhaust valves
6 Exhaust valve

slippers

7 Pushrods
8 Rocker arms
9 Tappet body

10 Plunger
11 Check ball
12 Return spring

1.6  General arrangement of the V6 engine

valve gear

4.4  Remove the plastic plug from the

viewing hole on each timing belt upper

cover

2B

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

5 Remove the access cover under the right-
hand wheelarch.
6 Using a socket and bar on the crankshaft
pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft pulley, in the
normal direction of rotation, until a series of
very small notches on the pulley inner rim
come into view. The first three notches are the
ignition timing marks and can be ignored. The
next notch (usually coloured white) represents
Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston on
compression, and this is the one we’re after
(see illustration).
7 Continue turning the crankshaft until the
TDC notch is aligned with the pointer on the
timing belt cover, just above the pulley. It’s
best to look down at this from the engine
compartment to get the angle right.
8 Now look through the viewing hole on the
front timing belt cover. A paint mark on the
camshaft sprocket rim should be aligned with
the notch at the top of the viewing window
(see illustration). If it isn’t, turn the crankshaft
through one complete revolution and realign
the timing marks as before. The mark on the
camshaft sprocket should now be correctly
aligned. The mark on the rear camshaft
sprocket should also be visible through the
other window.
9 When all the marks are aligned, the engine
is at TDC for No 1 cylinder on compression,
and is correctly positioned for any work that
requires the timing belt to be disturbed.
10 Refit the plugs to the viewing windows on
completion.

5

Camshaft covers - 
removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Release the spark plug HT leads from their
clips on the camshaft covers and move the
leads to one side.
2 Release the clips and disconnect the
breather hoses from the camshaft covers.
3 Disconnect the oil temperature switch
wiring multiplug from the rear camshaft cover.
4 Undo the two bolts and detach the pipe
support brackets from the rear cover.

5 Undo the two bolts securing each camshaft
cover to the cylinder head and lift off the
covers (see illustration). Collect the washers
under the bolt heads, and remove the cover
gaskets.
6 Inspect the cover gasket and the seals on
the retaining bolts and renew any that are
damaged.
7 Clean the cover and mating faces carefully
then, if necessary, fit a new gasket to the
cover, ensuring that it locates in the cover
grooves.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

6

Cylinder head side covers -
removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 If the rear cover is being removed, jack up
the front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Access to the rear cover is marginally
better from below.
2 Move the adjacent components clear as
much as possible and undo the side cover
retaining bolts. Note the oxygen sensor wiring
support bracket attachments on one of the
lower bolts and the engine earth lead on the
upper front cover bolt (see illustration).

3 Withdraw the side covers from the cylinder
head being prepared for some oil spillage.
4 Inspect the condition of the cover gasket
and renew it if necessary.
5 Clean the cover and mating faces carefully
then, if necessary, fit a new gasket to the
cover, ensuring that it locates in the cover
grooves.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure
that the arrow, and the word UP are at the top
when refitting each cover (see illustration).

7

Exhaust valve rocker
clearances - adjustment

3

Note: This is not a routine maintenance
operation and will only be necessary if the
cylinder head, camshafts or any components
of the valve train have been disturbed or
renewed.
1 Remove the camshaft covers and the
cylinder head side covers as described in
Sections 5 and 6 respectively.
2 Set the engine to TDC for No 1 cylinder on
compression, as described in Section 4.
3 Slacken the rocker arm adjusting screw
locknuts for No 1 cylinder exhaust valves on
the rear cylinder head.
4 Tighten the adjusting screw until it just
contacts the valve, then tighten it a further

2B•4 V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures

6.6  Ensure that the arrow, and the word

UP are at the top when refitting the side

covers

6.2  Engine earth lead (arrowed) on the

upper front side cover bolt

5.5  Lifting off the front camshaft cover

4.8  Paint mark on the camshaft sprocket

rim aligned with the notch at on the

viewing window

4.6  Ignition timing notches (A) and TDC

notch (B) on the crankshaft pulley

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

one and a half turns. Tighten the locknut
securely (see illustration).
5 Repeat paragraphs 3 and 4 for No 2
cylinder exhaust valves on the rear cylinder
head, and No 4 cylinder exhaust valves on the
front cylinder head.
6 Rotate the crankshaft through one
complete revolution and realign the timing
marks.
7 Repeat paragraphs 3 and 4 for No 5 and 
No 6 cylinder exhaust valves on the front
cylinder head, and No 3 cylinder exhaust
valves on the rear cylinder head.
8 Refit the cylinder head side covers and
camshaft covers on completion.

8

Inlet manifold - 
removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.
2 Disconnect the spark plug HT leads from
the spark plugs and cable clips and move the
leads clear of the engine. Ensure each lead is
labelled to identify its respective spark plug.
3 Refer to Chapter 4, Part D and remove the
following components:
(a) Air cleaner and air intake components

(Section 2).

(b) Throttle body (Section 12).
(c) Electronic idle control valve (Section 12).
(c) Fast idle valve (Section 12).
(d) Front and rear fuel rail and injectors

(Section 12).

4 Refer to Chapter 4, Part E and remove the
air suction valve pipe.
5 Check that all the vacuum hoses at the pipe
cluster are numbered with corresponding
numbers on their respective pip stubs. Mark
any as necessary, then disconnect all the
hoses from the pipe cluster stubs.
6 Check that all pipes, hoses and cables have
been disconnected; undo the eight nuts and
bolts securing the manifold to the cylinder
head.
7 Lift the manifold up and off the engine and
recover the two gaskets.

Refitting

8 Ensure that the manifold and cylinder
mating faces are clean then place the
manifold on the cylinder head using new
gaskets. Secure the manifold with the eight
nuts and bolts.
9 Refer to the relevant Parts of Chapter 4 and
refit the previously removed components.
10 Reconnect the spark plug leads, then refill
the cooling system as described in Chapter 1.

9

Exhaust manifold - 
removal and refitting

1

Note:  Never work on or near a hot exhaust
system and in particular, the catalytic
converter (where fitted).

Removal

1 If the front manifold is being removed, refer
to Chapter 3 and remove the radiator.
2 Jack up the front of the vehicle and support
it on axle stands.
3 On the front manifold, undo the two nuts
and lift off the small heat shield and the air
suction pipe flange. Recover the gasket.
4 Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring
harness connectors and release the wiring
from the support brackets.
5 Undo the bolts from the main manifold
heatshields and remove the heatshields.
6 Undo the flange nuts and lower the exhaust
front pipe from the manifold studs. Recover
the gaskets.
7 Undo the seven nuts securing each
manifold to its respective cylinder head, and
remove the manifold(s).
8 Clean the mating faces of all components
and obtain new gaskets prior to refitting.

Refitting

9 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Refit the
radiator as described in Chapter 3 on
completion.

10 Crankshaft pulley - 

removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Remove the auxiliary drivebelts for the
alternator, power steering and if fitted, the air
conditioning compressor as described in
Chapter 1.
2 Remove the starter motor as described in
Chapter 5.
3 Jack up the front of the car and support it
on axle stands.
4 Remove the access panel under the right-
hand wheelarch.
5 Using a socket and long handle, undo the
crankshaft pulley retaining bolt. Lock the
flywheel ring gear, through the starter motor

aperture, using a large screwdriver or tool to
prevent the crankshaft rotating as the pulley
bolt is undone. Remove the bolt and washer
(see illustration).
6 Withdraw the pulley from the crankshaft.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. 
Tighten the pulley retaining bolt to the
specified torque. Refit the starter motor as
described in Chapter 5, and the drivebelts 
as described in Chapter 1.

11 Timing belt covers - 

removal and refitting

4

Upper covers

Removal

1 If the covers are being removed for any
procedure that will entail disturbing the timing
belt, set the engine at TDC with No 1 cylinder
on compression, as described in Section 4,
before proceeding.
2 Remove the auxiliary drivebelts for the
alternator, power steering and if fitted, the air
conditioning compressor as described in
Chapter 1.
3 Undo the three bolts securing the rear
upper cover to the cylinder head (see
illustration).
4 Release the wiring harness support clips,

V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures  2B•5

7.4  Exhaust valve rocker clearance

adjustment

11.3  Timing belt rear upper cover retaining

bolts (arrowed)

10.5  Remove the bolt and washer and

withdraw the crankshaft pulley

2B

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

and move the harness clear, then withdraw
the rear cover from the engine.
5 Undo the four bolts securing the front cover
to the cylinder head (see illustration).
6 Undo the dipstick tube bolt and remove the
front cover from the engine.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the lip on the cover lower edge engages
behind the lower cover (see illustration). Refit
the drivebelts as described in Chapter 1.

Lower cover

Removal

8 Remove the upper covers as described
previously.
9 Remove the crankshaft pulley as described
in Section 10.

10 Undo the eight bolts securing the lower
cover to the engine (see illustration).
11 Release the rubber grommet from the
protruding head of the timing belt tensioner
retaining bolt (see illustration).
12 Undo the two bolts from the air
conditioner compressor bracket and remove
the drivebelt tensioner from the compressor
bracket.
13 Withdraw the lower cover from the engine.

Refitting

14 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

12 Timing belt - removal, refitting

and adjustment

4

Note: Access may be improved if the coolant
is drained and the expansion tank is removed
(see Chapter 1).

Removal

1 Remove the timing belt upper and lower
covers, as described in Section 11. Note that
it will be necessary to support the engine, and
remove the bolts from the right-hand engine
mounting, to allow auxilliary drivebelt removal
(see Chapter 1).
2 Slacken the timing belt tensioner retaining
bolt and move the tensioner, against the
pressure of the spring, to the fully released
position. Tighten the bolt to hold the tensioner
in this position.

3 Remove the belt guide from the crankshaft
sprocket noting that it is fitted with its concave
side facing outwards (see illustration).
4 Sketch the timing belt arrangement around
the sprockets, water pump pulley and
tensioner, as a guide when refitting (see
illustration).
5 Ease the belt off the camshaft sprockets,
then the water pump pulley and tensioner and
finally, the crankshaft sprocket (see
illustration). Remove the belt from the engine.
6 If the timing belt is to be re-used, mark its
running direction with an arrow in chalk, and
store it on its edge while it is off the engine.
7 Check the belt for any sign of cracks or
splits, particularly around the roots of the teeth.
Renew the belt if wear is obvious, if there are
signs of oil contamination, or if the belt has
exceeded its service interval (see Chapter 1).
Also renew the sprockets if they show any
signs of wear or chipping of the teeth.
8 Check the tensioner and sprockets as
described in Section 13.
9 Before refitting the belt, check that the
engine is still at TDC with No 1 cylinder on
compression (Section 4) as it will probably
have moved when the crankshaft pulley was
removed. Use a screwdriver engaged with the
flywheel teeth to move the crankshaft as
necessary, and move the camshafts by
means of their sprockets. With the covers
removed, it is possible to see the mark or
notch on the ends of the camshaft sprockets,
which should be aligned with the
corresponding line in the backplate (see

2B•6 V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures

12.5  Ease the belt off the camshaft

sprockets

12.4  Timing belt arrangement around the

sprockets, pulley and tensioner

12.3  Remove the belt guide from the

crankshaft sprocket

11.11  Release the rubber grommet from

the protruding head of the timing belt

tensioner retaining bolt

11.10  Timing belt lower cover retaining

bolts (arrowed)

11.7  Ensure that the lip on the upper cover

lower edge engages behind the lower

cover

11.5  Timing belt front upper cover

retaining bolts (arrowed)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

illustrations). Similarly, there is a notch on the
front of the crankshaft sprocket which should
align with an arrow cast into the oil pump
housing (see illustration).

Refitting and adjustment

10 Feed the timing belt around the
sprockets, starting with the crankshaft
sprocket, then, keeping it taught, feed it over
the front camshaft sprocket, water pump
pulley, rear camshaft sprocket, and tensioner
pulley.
11 Slacken the timing belt tensioner retaining
bolt, allow the tensioner to automatically
tension the belt, then re-tighten the bolt.
12 Refit the belt guide to the crankshaft
sprocket noting that it is fitted with its
concave side facing outwards.
13 Check that the timing marks are still
aligned with the engine at TDC, then refit the
timing belt covers and crankshaft pulley.
14 Turn the engine over by means of the
crankshaft pulley bolt to settle the belt on the
sprockets. Return the crankshaft to TDC for
No 1 cylinder on compression.
15 Now turn the crankshaft further by
approximately nine teeth on the camshaft
sprocket until an additional notch (usually
coloured blue) is aligned with the pointer on
the lower cover.
16 Slacken the timing belt tensioner bolt,
then retighten it once more.
17 Turn the crankshaft further to return it to
the TDC position for No 1 cylinder on

compression, and check that all the timing
marks, on the pulley and camshaft sprockets
are aligned as previously described. If they
are all is well. If not, the belt is probably a
tooth out and should be repositioned as
previously described.
18 Refit the plugs to the upper covers, then
refit the auxiliary drivebelts as described in
Chapter 1.

13 Timing belt tensioner and

sprockets - removal,
inspection and refitting

4

Tensioner

Removal

1 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 12.
2 Unhook the tensioner spring from the
anchorage stud.
3 Remove the tensioner retaining bolt, lift off
the tensioner and remove the spring (see
illustration).

Inspection

4 Spin the tensioner, and ensure that there is
no roughness or harshness in the bearing.
Also check that the endfloat is not excessive
and there is no sign of free play. Check the
surface of the tensioner for any signs of
roughness, nicks or scoring which may

damage the timing belt. Renew the tensioner
if worn.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the lower tensioner arm engages over the
lug in the casing (see illustration).

Camshaft sprockets

Removal

6 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 12.
7 Undo the three retaining bolts securing
each sprocket to its respective camshaft. To
prevent the sprockets turning as the bolts are
undone, either insert a large screwdriver
through one of the sprocket holes and engage
it with one of the backplate bolts behind, or
make up a holding tool from scrap metal,
which is of a scissor shape, with a bolts at
each end to engage with the holes in the
sprocket (see illustration).
8 Withdraw the two sprockets from the
camshafts, noting their orientation; the
sprocket with the flanged edge is fitted to the
front camshaft, and the sprocket with the
spokes is fitted to the rear camshaft.

Inspection

9 Check the condition of the sprockets,
inspecting carefully for any wear grooves,
pitting or scoring around the teeth, or any
wear ridges which might cause damage to the
timing belt. Make sure that the dowels are not

V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures  2B•7

12.9c  Notch on the front of the crankshaft

sprocket aligned with the arrow cast into

the oil pump housing

12.9b  Rear camshaft sprocket timing

notch, aligned with the corresponding line

in the backplate

12.9a  Front camshaft sprocket timing

mark, aligned with the corresponding line

in the backplate

13.7  Use a tool like this to hold the

camshaft sprocket as the bolts are 

undone

13.5  Ensure that the lower tensioner arm

engages over the lug in the casing when

refitting

13.3  Remove the tensioner retaining bolt,

lift off the tensioner and remove the spring

2B

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

worn and are not a loose fit in the camshaft or
sprocket holes.

Refitting

10 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure
that the sprockets are fitted to their correct
camshafts and tighten the retaining bolts to
the specified torque.

Crankshaft sprocket

Removal

11 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 12.
12 Slide the sprocket off the front of the
crankshaft followed by the timing belt guide
behind.

Inspection

13 Check the condition of the sprocket,
inspecting carefully for any wear grooves,
pitting or scoring around the teeth, or any
wear ridges which might cause damage to the
timing belt. Examine the Woodruff key and its
groove and make sure it is a tight fit.

Refitting

14 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

14 Camshaft oil seals - 

renewal

4

Note: The use of an oil seal extractor which
screws into the seal inside circumference is
preferable for this operation. These are
available at most accessory shops and can
often be hired from tool hire outlets. In the
absence of this type of tool, an alternative (but
less satisfactory) method of removal is
described in the following procedure.
1 Remove the camshaft sprockets as
described in the previous Section.
2 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the
backplate from the front or rear cylinder head
as required (see illustration).
3 The oil seals are now accessible for
removal. Punch or drill two small holes
opposite each other in the oil seal. Screw a
self-tapping screw into each hole and pull on
the screws with pliers to extract the seal.
4 Check that the housing is clean before

fitting the new seal. Lubricate the lips of the
seal and the running faces of the camshaft
with clean engine oil, then carefully locate the
seal over the camshaft and drive it squarely
into position using a tube or a socket. Take
care not to turn over the lips of the seal as it is
being fitted. Another method of fitting is to
draw it squarely into position using the
sprocket bolt and a distance piece.
5 With the seal fully inserted in its housing,
refit the backplate, then refit the camshaft
sprocket as described in the previous
Section.

15 Camshaft and hydraulic

tappets - removal, inspection
and refitting

4

Removal

1 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
intake trunking as described in Chapter 4,
Part D.
2 Remove the camshaft covers as described
in Section 5.
3 Remove the cylinder head side covers as
described in Section 6.
4 Remove the camshaft sprocket(s) as
described in Section 13.
5 If working on the front camshaft, remove
the distributor as described in Chapter 5.
6 If working on the rear camshaft, remove the
power steering pump as described in Chapter
10.
7 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the

backplate from the front or rear cylinder head
as required.
8 Undo the ten bolts securing the oil gallery
to the camshaft carrier noting the locations of
the two short bolts (see illustration).
9 Lift off the oil gallery and recover the small
O-ring seal in the camshaft carrier (see
illustration).
10 If working on the front camshaft, undo the
two small camshaft carrier retaining bolts at
each end.
11 Lift the camshaft carriers off the cylinder
head (see illustration).
12 Carefully lift out the camshafts, marking or
labelling them FRONT or REAR as applicable
(see illustration).
13 Withdraw the oil seal off the front of the
camshaft.
14 If working on the rear camshaft, remove
the end plug from the cylinder head.
15 Obtain a compartmented box, and mark it
inlet and exhaust for each cylinder (ie 1 INLET,
1 EXHAUST, 2 INLET, 2 EXHAUST etc).
16 Lift out the slippers, tappets and
pushrods for each cylinder, in turn, and place
the components in their respective
compartments in the box (see illustration).

Inspection

17 Clean and inspect the various
components removed, for signs of excessive
wear.
18 Examine the camshaft bearing journals
and lobes for damage or obvious wear. If
evident, a new camshaft must be fitted, or one
that has been renovated by a company

2B•8 V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures

15.12  Carefully lift out the camshafts

15.11  Lift the camshaft carrier off the

cylinder head

15.9  Recover the small O-ring seal in the

camshaft carrier

15.8  Undo the ten bolts securing the oil

gallery to the camshaft carrier

14.2  Front cylinder head backplate

retaining bolts (arrowed)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake