Rover 820, 825, 827. Repair Manual - part 6

2 If any of the castings are extremely dirty, all
should be steam-cleaned.
3 After the castings are returned from steam-
cleaning, clean all oil holes and oil galleries
one more time. Flush all internal passages
with warm water until the water runs clear,
then dry thoroughly, and apply a light film of
oil to all machined surfaces, to prevent
rusting. If you have access to compressed air,
use it to speed the drying process, and to
blow out all the oil holes and galleries. 

Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!

4 If the castings are not very dirty, you can do
an adequate cleaning job with hot soapy
water (as hot as you can stand!) and a stiff
brush. Take plenty of time, and do a thorough
job. Regardless of the cleaning method used,
be sure to clean all oil holes and galleries very
thoroughly, and to dry all components
completely; protect the machined surfaces as
described above, to prevent rusting.
5 All threaded holes must be clean and dry,

to ensure accurate torque readings during
reassembly; now is also a good time to clean
and check the threads of all principal bolts.
6 When all inspection and repair procedures
are complete (see below) and the block is
ready for reassembly, refit the main bearing
caps, and tighten the bolts finger-tight.
7 If the engine is not going to be reassembled
right away, cover it with a large plastic bag to
keep it clean; protect the machined surfaces
as described above, to prevent rusting.

Inspection

8 Visually check the castings for cracks and
corrosion. Look for stripped threads in the
threaded holes. If there has been any history
of internal coolant leakage, it may be
worthwhile having an engine overhaul
specialist check the cylinder block/crankcase
for cracks with special equipment. If defects
are found, have them repaired, if possible, or
renew the assembly.
9 Check each cylinder bore for scuffing and
scoring.
10 Noting that the cylinder bores must be

measured with all the crankshaft main bearing
caps bolted in place (without the crankshaft
and bearing shells), to the specified torque
wrench settings, measure the diameter of
each cylinder at the top (just under the ridge
area), centre and bottom of the cylinder bore,
parallel to the crankshaft axis. Next, measure
each cylinder’s diameter at the same three
locations across the crankshaft axis. Note the
measurements obtained.
11 Measure the piston diameter at right-
angles to the gudgeon pin axis, just above the
bottom of the skirt; again, note the results.
12 If it is wished to obtain the piston-to-bore
clearance, measure the bore and piston skirt as
described above, and subtract the skirt
diameter from the bore measurement. If the
precision measuring tools shown are not
available, the condition of the pistons and
bores can be assessed, though not quite as
accurately, by using feeler gauges as follows.
Select a feeler gauge of thickness equal to the
specified piston-to-bore clearance, and slip it
into the cylinder along with the matching
piston. The piston must be positioned exactly
as it normally would be. The feeler gauge must
be between the piston and cylinder on one of
the thrust faces (at right-angles to the gudgeon
pin bore). The piston should slip through the
cylinder (with the feeler gauge in place) with
moderate pressure; if it falls through or slides
through easily, the clearance is excessive, and
a new piston will be required. If the piston
binds at the lower end of the cylinder, and is
loose toward the top, the cylinder is tapered. If
tight spots are encountered as the piston/feeler
gauge is rotated in the cylinder, the cylinder is
out-of-round (oval).
13 Repeat these procedures for the
remaining pistons and cylinder bores.
14 Compare the results with the
Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter; if any measurement is beyond the
dimensions specified for that class, or if any
bore measurement is significantly different
from the others (indicating that the bore is
tapered or oval), the piston or bore is
excessively-worn.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures  2C•13

14.5  Using oil gallery bolts to withdraw the

main bearing caps

14.2  Main bearing, oil gallery and related components on V6 engines

1 Oil baffle retaining bolt
2 Oil baffle
3 Pick-up/strainer retaining

bolt

4 Oil pump pick-up/strainer

5 O-ring
6 Main bearing/oil gallery bolt
7 Main bearing/oil gallery bolt
8 Pipe elbow bolt
9 Oil pipe elbow

10 O-ring
11 Oil gallery
12 O-ring
13 Main bearing shell

2C

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

15 If any of the cylinder bores are badly
scuffed or scored, or if they are excessively-
worn, out-of-round or tapered, the usual
course of action would be to have the cylinder
block/crankcase rebored, and to fit new,
oversized, pistons on reassembly. See a
dealer or engine reconditioning specialist for
advice.
16 If the bores are in reasonably good
condition and not excessively-worn, then it
may only be necessary to renew the piston
rings.
17 If this is the case, the bores should be
honed, to allow the new rings to bed in
correctly and provide the best possible seal.
Honing is an operation that will be carried out
for you by an engine reconditioning specialist.
18 After all machining operations are
completed, the entire block/crankcase must
be washed very thoroughly with warm soapy
water to remove all traces of abrasive grit
produced during the machining operations.
When the cylinder block/crankcase is
completely clean, rinse it thoroughly and dry
it, then lightly oil all exposed machined
surfaces, to prevent rusting.
19 The cylinder block/crankcase should now
be completely clean and dry, with all
components checked for wear or damage,
and repaired or overhauled as necessary.
Refit as many ancillary components as
possible, for safekeeping. If reassembly is not
to start immediately, cover the block with a
large plastic bag to keep it clean, and protect
the machined surfaces as described above to
prevent rusting.

16 Piston/connecting rod

assemblies - inspection

4

Note: Always check first what replacement
parts are available before planning any
overhaul operation. A Rover dealer, or a good
engine reconditioning specialist/automotive
parts supplier may be able to suggest
alternatives which will enable you to overcome
the lack of replacement parts.
1 Before the inspection process can be
carried out, the piston/connecting rod
assemblies must be cleaned, and the original
piston rings removed from the pistons. The
rings should have smooth, polished working
surfaces, with no dull or carbon-coated
sections (showing that the ring is not sealing
correctly against the bore wall, so allowing
combustion gases to blow by) and no traces
of wear on their top and bottom surfaces. The
end gaps should be clear of carbon, but not
polished (indicating a too-small end gap), and
all the rings (including the elements of the oil
control ring) should be free to rotate in their
grooves, but without excessive up-and-down
movement. If the rings appear to be in good
condition, they are probably fit for further use;
check the end gaps (in an unworn part of the
bore). If any of the rings appears to be worn or

damaged, or has an end gap significantly
different from the specified value, the usual
course of action is to renew all of them as a
set. Note: While it is usual always to renew
piston rings when an engine is overhauled,
this of course assumes that rings are available
separately - if not, it follows that great care
must be taken not to break or damage any of
the rings during the following procedures, and
to ensure that each ring is marked on removal
so that it is refitted only the original way up,
and only to the same groove.
2 Using a piston ring installation tool,
carefully remove the rings from the pistons. If
such a tool is not available, the rings can be
removed by hand, expanding them over the
top of the pistons. The use of two or three old
feeler blades will be helpful in preventing the
rings dropping into empty grooves. Be careful
not to nick or gouge the pistons in the
process, and mark or label each ring as it is
removed, so that its original top surface can
be identified on reassembly, and that it can be
returned to its original groove.
3 Scrape all traces of carbon from the top of
the piston. A hand-held wire brush or a piece
of fine emery cloth can be used, once the
majority of the deposits have been scraped
away. Do not, under any circumstances, use a
wire brush mounted in a drill motor to remove
deposits from the pistons - the piston material
is soft, and may be eroded away by the wire
brush.
4 Use a piston ring groove-cleaning tool to
remove carbon deposits from the ring
grooves. If a tool isn’t available, but
replacement rings have been found, a piece
broken off the old ring will do the job. Be very
careful to remove only the carbon deposits -
don’t remove any metal, and do not nick or
scratch the sides of the ring grooves. Protect
your fingers - piston rings are sharp!
5 Once the deposits have been removed,
clean the piston/rod assemblies with solvent,
and dry them with compressed air (if
available). Make sure the oil return holes in the
back sides of the ring grooves, and the oil
hole in the lower end of each rod, are clear.
6 If the pistons and cylinder walls aren’t
damaged or worn excessively, and if the
cylinder block/crankcase is not rebored, new
pistons won’t be necessary. Normal piston
wear appears as even vertical wear on the
piston thrust surfaces, and slight looseness of
the top ring in its groove.
7 Carefully inspect each piston for cracks
around the skirt, at the pin bosses, and at the
ring lands (between the ring grooves).
8 Look for scoring and scuffing on the thrust
faces of the skirt, holes in the piston crown,
and burned areas at the edge of the crown. If
the skirt is scored or scuffed, the engine may
have been suffering from overheating and/or
abnormal combustion, which caused
excessively-high operating temperatures. The
cooling and lubrication systems should be
checked thoroughly. A hole in the piston
crown is an indication that abnormal

combustion (pre-ignition) was occurring.
Burned areas at the edge of the piston crown
are usually evidence of spark knock
(detonation). If any of the above problems
exist, the causes must be corrected, or the
damage will occur again. The causes may
include intake air leaks, incorrect fuel/air
mixture or incorrect ignition timing.
9 Corrosion of the piston, in the form of small
pits, indicates that coolant is leaking into the
combustion chamber and/or the crankcase.
Again, the cause must be corrected, or the
problem may persist in the rebuilt engine.
10 Check the piston-to-rod clearance by
twisting the piston and rod in opposite
directions. Any noticeable play indicates
excessive wear, which must be corrected. On
4-cylinder “T”-series engines and V6 engines,
the piston/connecting rod assemblies should
be taken to a Rover dealer or engine
reconditioning specialist to have the pistons,
gudgeon pins and rods checked, and new
components fitted as required.
11 On these engines, don’t attempt to
separate the pistons from the connecting rods
(even if non-genuine replacements are found
elsewhere). This is a task for a Rover dealer or
similar engine reconditioning specialist, due to
the special heating equipment, press,
mandrels and supports required to do the job.
If the piston/connecting rod assemblies do
require this sort of work, have the connecting
rods checked for bend and twist, since only
such engine repair specialists will have the
facilities for this purpose.
12 On 4-cylinder “M” series engines, the
gudgeon pins are retained by circlips and the
pistons and connecting rods can be
separated.
13 To remove the pistons from the
connecting rods, extract the two gudgeon pin
retaining circlips, using a small screwdriver,
then push out the gudgeon pin (see
illustration). If the pin is tight, warm the
piston in hot water, which will expand the
piston slightly, enabling the gudgeon pin to be
pushed out. As each piston is removed, mark
it on the inside with a punch, indicating its
cylinder number.
14 Check the connecting rods for cracks and
other damage. Also on 4-cylinder engines,
check that the oilway in the base of the

2C•14 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

16.13  Using a small screwdriver to extract

the gudgeon pin circlip

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

connecting rod is clear by probing with a piece
of wire. Temporarily remove the big-end bearing
caps and the old bearing shells, wipe clean the
rod and cap bearing recesses, and inspect them
for nicks, gouges and scratches. After checking
the rods, replace the old shells, slip the caps into
place, and tighten the bolts finger-tight.
15 To refit the pistons to their connecting
rods on “M” series engines, start with No 1
and insert the connecting rod into the piston,
so that the offset at the gudgeon pin end of
the rod is towards the side of the piston
marked FRONT on its top face (see
illustrations). Insert the gudgeon pin, and refit
the retaining circlips. Ensure that the circlips
fully enter their grooves.
16 Assemble the No 3 piston and connecting
rod in the same way.
17 Assemble the No 2 and No 4 pistons and
connecting rods in the same way, but with the
offset at the gudgeon pin end of the rod away
from the side of the piston marked FRONT.

17 Crankshaft - inspection

3

Note: Always check first what replacement
parts are available before planning any
overhaul operation. A Rover dealer, or a good
engine reconditioning specialist/automotive
parts supplier, may be able to suggest
alternatives which will enable you to overcome
the lack of replacement parts.
1 Clean the crankshaft, and dry it with
compressed air if available. 

Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air! Be
sure to clean the oil holes with a
pipe cleaner or similar probe.

2 Check the main and crankpin (big-end)
bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring,
pitting and cracking.
3 Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oil
holes with a stone, file or scraper.
4 Using a micrometer, measure the diameter
of the main bearing and crankpin (big-end)
journals, and compare the results with the
Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter
(see illustration).

5 By measuring the diameter at a number of
points around each journal’s circumference,
you will be able to determine whether or not
the journal is out-of-round. Take the
measurement at each end of the journal, near
the webs, to determine if the journal is
tapered.
6 If the crankshaft journals are damaged,
tapered, out-of-round, or worn beyond the
limits specified in this Chapter, the crankshaft
must be taken to an engine overhaul
specialist, who will regrind it, and who can
supply the necessary undersize bearing
shells.
7 Check the oil seal journals at each end of
the crankshaft for wear and damage. If either
seal has worn an excessive groove in its
journal, consult an engine overhaul specialist,
who will be able to advise whether a repair is
possible, or whether a new crankshaft is
necessary.

18 Main and big-end bearings -

inspection

4

Note: Always check first what replacement
parts are available before planning any
overhaul operation. A Rover dealer, or a good
engine reconditioning specialist/automotive

parts supplier, may be able to suggest
alternatives which will enable you to overcome
the lack of replacement parts.
1 Even though the main and big-end bearing
shells should be renewed during the engine
overhaul, the old shells should be retained for
close examination, as they may reveal
valuable information about the condition of
the engine (see illustration).
2 Bearing failure occurs because of lack of
lubrication, the presence of dirt or other
foreign particles, overloading the engine, and
corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing
failure, it must be corrected before the engine
is reassembled, to prevent it from happening
again.
3 When examining the bearing shells, remove
them from the cylinder block/crankcase and
main bearing caps, and from the connecting
rods and the big-end bearing caps, then lay
them out on a clean surface in the same
general position as their location in the
engine. This will enable you to match any
bearing problems with the corresponding
crankshaft journal. Do not touch any shell’s
bearing surface with your fingers while
checking it, or the delicate surface may be
scratched.
4 Dirt or other foreign matter gets into the
engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in
the engine during assembly, or it may pass

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures  2C•15

17.4  Measuring the main bearing journal

diameters

16.15b  The pistons are marked FRONT on

their top face (arrowed) on “M” series 

4-cylinder engines

16.15a  Connecting rod offset and oil squirt

hole relationship on “M” series 4-cylinder

engines

18.1  Typical bearing failures

A Scratched by dirt; dirt embedded in bearing

material

B Lack of oil; overlay wiped out
C Improper seating: bright (polished) sections

D Tapered journal; overlay gone from entire

surface

E Radius ride
F Fatigue failure: craters or pockets

2C

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

H27537

through filters or the crankcase ventilation
system. It may get into the oil, and from there
into the bearings. Metal chips from machining
operations and normal engine wear are often
present. Abrasives are sometimes left in
engine components after reconditioning,
especially when parts are not thoroughly
cleaned using the proper cleaning methods.
Whatever the source, these foreign objects
often end up embedded in the soft bearing
material, and are easily recognized. Large
particles will not embed in the material, and
will score or gouge the shell and journal. The
best prevention for this cause of bearing
failure is to clean all parts thoroughly, and to
keep everything spotlessly-clean during
engine assembly. Frequent and regular engine
oil and filter changes are also recommended.
5 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication
breakdown) has a number of inter-related
causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil),
overloading (which squeezes the oil from the
bearing face) and oil leakage (from excessive
bearing clearances, worn oil pump or high
engine speeds) all contribute to lubrication
breakdown. Blocked oil passages, which
usually are the result of misaligned oil holes in
a bearing shell, will also starve a bearing of oil,
and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is the
cause of bearing failure, the bearing material
is wiped or extruded from the shell’s steel
backing. Temperatures may increase to the
point where the steel backing turns blue from
overheating.
6 Driving habits can have a definite effect on
bearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation
(labouring the engine) puts very high loads on
bearings, which tends to squeeze out the oil
film. These loads cause the shells to flex,
which produces fine cracks in the bearing
face (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearing
material will loosen in pieces, and tear away
from the steel backing. Short-distance driving
leads to corrosion of bearings, because
insufficient engine heat is produced to drive
off condensed water and corrosive gases.
These products collect in the engine oil,
forming acid and sludge. As the oil is carried
to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and
corrodes the bearing material.
7 Incorrect shell refitting during engine
assembly will lead to bearing failure as well.
Tight-fitting shells leave insufficient bearing

running clearance, and will result in oil
starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped
behind a bearing shell result in high spots on
the bearing, which lead to failure. Do not
touch any shell’s bearing surface with your
fingers during reassembly; there is a risk of
scratching the delicate surface, or of
depositing particles of dirt on it.

19 Engine overhaul - 

reassembly sequence

1 Before reassembly begins ensure that all
new parts have been obtained and that all
necessary tools are available. Read through
the entire procedure to familiarise yourself
with the work involved, and to ensure that all
items necessary for reassembly of the engine
are at hand. In addition to all normal tools and
materials, jointing and thread locking
compound will be needed in some areas
during engine reassembly. In all other cases,
provided the relevant mating surfaces are
clean and flat, new gaskets will be sufficient to
ensure joints are oil-tight. Do not use any kind
of silicone-based sealant on any part of the
fuel system or inlet manifold, and never use
exhaust sealants upstream of the catalytic
converter.
2 In order to save time and avoid problems,
engine reassembly can be carried out in the
following order (as applicable).
(a) Crankshaft and main bearings.
(b) Engine adaptor plate or rear oil seal

carrier.

(c) Pistons and connecting rods.
(d) Oil pump.
(e) Sump.
(f)

Flywheel/driveplate.

(g) Cylinder head(s).
(h) Camshafts and hydraulic tappets.
(i)

Timing sprockets, tensioners and belt.

(j)

Engine external components.

3 Ensure that everything is clean prior to
reassembly. As mentioned previously, dirt and
metal particles can quickly destroy bearings
and result in major engine damage. Use clean
engine oil to lubricate during reassembly.

20 Piston rings - refitting

3

1 Before installing new piston rings, check
the end gaps. Lay out each piston set with a
piston/connecting rod assembly, and keep
them together as a matched set from now on.
2 Insert the top compression ring into the first
cylinder, and square it up with the cylinder
walls by pushing it in with the top of the
piston. The ring should be near the bottom of
the cylinder, at the lower limit of ring travel.
3 To measure the end gap, slip feeler gauges
between the ends of the ring, until a gauge
equal to the gap width is found (see
illustration). The feeler gauge should slide

between the ring ends with a slight amount of
drag. Compare the measurement to the value
given in the Specifications Section of this
Chapter; if the gap is larger or smaller than
specified, double-check to make sure you
have the correct rings before proceeding. If
you are assessing the condition of used rings,
have the cylinder bores checked and
measured by a Rover dealer or similar engine
reconditioning specialist, so that you can be
sure of exactly which component is worn, and
seek advice as to the best course of action to
take.
4 If the end gap is still too small, it must be
opened up by careful filing of the ring ends
using a fine file. If it is too large, this is not as
serious, unless the specified limit is exceeded,
in which case very careful checking is
required of the dimensions of all components,
as well as of the new parts.
5 Repeat the procedure for each ring that will
be installed in the first cylinder, and for each
ring in the remaining cylinders. Remember to
keep rings, pistons and cylinders matched up.
6 Refit the piston rings as follows. Where the
original rings are being refitted, use the marks
or notes made on removal, to ensure that
each ring is refitted to its original groove and
the same way up. New rings generally have
their top surfaces identified by markings
(often an indication of size, such as “STD”, or
the word “TOP”) - the rings must be fitted with
such markings uppermost. Note: Always
follow the instructions printed on the ring
package or box - different manufacturers may
require different approaches. Do not mix up
the top and second compression rings, as
they usually have different cross-sections.
7 The oil control ring (lowest one on the
piston) is usually installed first. It is composed
of three separate elements. Slip the
spacer/expander into the groove. If an anti-
rotation tang is used, make sure it is inserted
into the drilled hole in the ring groove. Next,
install the lower side rail. Don’t use a piston
ring installation tool on the oil ring side rails,
as they may be damaged. Instead, place one
end of the side rail into the groove between
the spacer/expander and the ring land, hold it
firmly in place, and slide a finger around the
piston while pushing the rail into the groove.
Next, install the upper side rail in the same
manner.
8 After the three oil ring components have
been installed, check that both the upper and
lower side rails can be turned smoothly in the
ring groove.
9 The second compression (middle) ring is
installed next, followed by the top
compression ring - ensure their marks are
uppermost, and be careful not to confuse
them. Don’t expand either ring any more than
necessary to slide it over the top of the piston.
10 When all the rings are in place set the ring
gaps as follows:
4-cylinder “M” series engines - set the

compression ring gaps at 90º to each
other, and away from the thrust side of

2C•16 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

20.3  Measuring piston ring end gap

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

the piston. Position the gaps of the two oil
control rails and the expander at 90º to
each other.

4-cylinder “T” series engines - set the

compression ring gaps at 120º to each
other and away from the inlet valve cut-
out side of the piston. Position the gaps
of the two oil control rails at 120º to each
other and the gap of the expander at 120º
to the rail gaps. On turbocharged engines,
position the oil control rail gap and spring
gap at 30º on opposite sides of the
gudgeon pin axis.

V6 engines - set the compression ring gaps at

90º to each other and the oil control
expander gap at 90º to the top ring gap.
Position the oil control rail gaps at 15º
either side of the expander gap.

21 Crankshaft - refitting and

main bearing running
clearance check

4

1 It is assumed at this point that the cylinder
block/crankcase and crankshaft have been
cleaned, inspected and repaired or
reconditioned as necessary. Position the
engine upside-down.
2 Remove the main bearing cap bolts, and lift
out the caps. Lay the caps out in the proper
order, to ensure correct installation.
3 If they’re still in place, remove the old
bearing shells from the block and the main
bearing caps. Wipe the bearing recesses of
the block and caps with a clean, lint-free
cloth. They must be kept spotlessly-clean!

Main bearing running clearance
check

4 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in
the crankcase and clean the backs of the
bearing shells. Insert the respective upper
shells (dry) into position in the crankcase and
the lower shells into their respective caps. On
the V6 engines, the shells with the oil groves
are fitted to the crankcase, and the plain
shells are fitted to the caps. Where the old
main bearings are being refitted, ensure that
they are located in their original positions.
Make sure the tab on each bearing shell fits

into the notch in the block or cap (see
illustration). 
Caution: Don’t hammer the shells into
place, and don’t nick or gouge the bearing
faces. No lubrication should be used at
this time.
5 Place the crankshaft thrustwashers into
position in the crankcase so that their oil
grooves are facing outwards (away from the
central web) (see illustration).
6 Clean the bearing surfaces of the shells in
the block, and the crankshaft main bearing
journals with a clean, lint-free cloth. Check or
clean the oil holes in the crankshaft, as any
dirt here can go only one way - straight
through the new bearings.
7 Once you’re certain the crankshaft is clean,
carefully lay it in position in the main bearings.
Trim several pieces of the appropriate-size
Plastigage (they must be slightly shorter than
the width of the main bearings), and place one
piece on each crankshaft main bearing
journal, parallel with the crankshaft centre-line
(see illustration).
8 Clean the bearing surfaces of the cap
shells, and install the caps in their respective
positions (don’t mix them up) with the arrows
pointing to the timing belt end of the engine or
positioned according to the marks made
during removal. Don’t disturb the Plastigage.
9 Working on one cap at a time, from the
centre main bearing outwards (and ensuring
that each cap is tightened down squarely and
evenly onto the block), tighten the main

bearing cap bolts to the specified torque
wrench setting (Chapter 2, Part A). Don’t
rotate the crankshaft at any time during this
operation!
10 Remove the bolts, and carefully lift off the
main bearing caps (on V6 engines, use the oil
gallery bolts as before). Keep them in order.
Don’t disturb the Plastigage or rotate the
crankshaft.
11 Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigage on each journal with the scale
printed on the Plastigage envelope to obtain
the main bearing running clearance (see
illustration). Check the Specifications to
make sure that the clearance is correct.
12 If the clearance is not as specified, seek
the advice of a Rover dealer or similar engine
reconditioning specialist - if the crankshaft
journals are in good condition, it may be
possible simply to renew the shells to achieve
the correct clearance. If this is not possible,
the crankshaft must be reground by a
specialist who can supply the necessary
undersized shells. First though, make sure
that no dirt or oil was between the bearing
shells and the caps or block when the
clearance was measured. If the Plastigage is
noticeably wider at one end than the other,
the journal may be tapered.
13 Carefully scrape all traces of the
Plastigage material off the main bearing
journals and the bearing surfaces. Be very
careful not to scratch the bearing - use your
fingernail or the edge of a credit card.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures  2C•17

21.7  Plastigage in place on a crankshaft

main bearing journal

21.5  Fitting the crankshaft thrustwashers

21.4  Fitting the main bearing shell upper

halves

21.14  Thoroughly lubricate the crankshaft

journals

21.11  Measuring the width of the

deformed Plastigage using the scale on

the card provided

2C

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Final refitting

14 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the
engine. Clean the bearing surfaces of the
shells in the block, then apply a thin, uniform
layer of clean molybdenum disulphide-based
grease, engine assembly lubricant, or clean
engine oil to each surface (see illustration).
Coat the thrustwasher surfaces as well.
15 Lubricate the crankshaft oil seal journals
with molybdenum disulphide-based grease,
engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil.
16 Make sure the crankshaft journals are
clean, then lay the crankshaft back in place in
the block (see illustration). Clean the bearing
surfaces of the shells in the caps, then
lubricate them. Install the caps in their
respective positions, with the arrows pointing
to the timing belt end of the engine or the
previously made marks positioned correctly.
When fitting the centre main bearing cap on
4-cylinder engines, ensure that the
thrustwashers, generously lubricated, are
fitted with their oil grooves facing outwards,
and the locating tab of each is engaged with
the slot in the main bearing cap (see
illustration). Apply RTV sealant into the
vertical grooves on the edges of Nos 1 and 5
main bearing caps, then fit these caps to their
locations.
17 On 4-cylinder engines, working on one
cap at a time, from the centre main bearing
outwards (and ensuring that each cap is
tightened down squarely and evenly onto the
block), tighten the main bearing cap bolts to

the specified torque wrench setting (Chap-
ter 2, Part A).
18 On V6 engines, tighten the bolts to the
specified torque (Chapter 2, Part A) in the
sequence shown (see illustration).
19 Rotate the crankshaft a number of times
by hand, to check for any obvious binding.
20 Check the crankshaft endfloat. It should
be correct if the crankshaft thrust faces aren’t
worn or damaged.
21 On 4-cylinder engines, apply sealer to the
crankcase breather tube extension, then fit
the tube to its location. Apply sealant to the
breather tube elbow, and fit the elbow,
ensuring that it is tapped down until the
shoulder contacts the crankcase.
22 On V6 engines, refit the oil gallery, use
new O-ring seals and secure with the bolts
tightened to the specified torque (Chapter 2,
Part A).
23 Refit the engine oil seal carrier, or adaptor
plate and install a new seal (see Part A or B of
this Chapter according to engine type).

22 Piston/connecting rod

assemblies - refitting and big-end
bearing running clearance check

4

1 Before refitting the piston/connecting rod
assemblies, the cylinder bores must be
perfectly clean, the top edge of each cylinder
must be chamfered, and the crankshaft must
be in place.
2 Remove the big-end bearing cap from No 1
cylinder connecting rod (refer to the marks
noted or made on removal). Remove the
original bearing shells, and wipe the bearing

recesses of the connecting rod and cap with a
clean, lint-free cloth. They must be kept
spotlessly-clean!

Big-end bearing running
clearance check

3 Clean the back of the new upper bearing
shell, fit it to the connecting rod, then fit the
other shell of the bearing set to the big-end
bearing cap. Make sure the tab on each shell
fits into the notch in the rod or cap recess. 
Caution: Don’t hammer the shells into
place, and don’t nick or gouge the bearing
face. Don’t lubricate the bearing at this
time.
4 It’s critically important that all mating
surfaces of the bearing components are
perfectly clean and oil-free when they’re
assembled.
5 Position the piston ring gaps as described
in Section 16, lubricate the piston and rings
with clean engine oil, and attach a piston ring
compressor to the piston. Leave the skirt
protruding about a quarter-inch, to guide the
piston into the cylinder bore. The rings must
be compressed until they’re flush with the
piston.
6 Rotate the crankshaft until No 1 crankpin
(big-end) journal is at Bottom Dead Centre,
and apply a coat of engine oil to the cylinder
walls.
7 Arrange the No 1 piston/connecting rod
assembly so that the word FRONT or the
arrow on the piston crown points to the timing
belt end of the engine. Gently insert the
assembly into the No 1 cylinder bore, and rest
the bottom edge of the ring compressor on
the engine block.

2C•18 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

21.18  Main bearing cap retaining bolt tightening sequence on V6 engines

21.16b  Fitting the crankshaft thrustwasher

lower halves to the centre bearing cap on

4-cylinder engines

21.16a  Crankshaft installation

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

8 Tap the top edge of the ring compressor to
make sure it’s contacting the block around its
entire circumference.
9 Gently tap on the top of the piston with the
end of a wooden hammer handle (see
illustration), while guiding the connecting
rod’s big-end onto the crankpin. The piston
rings may try to pop out of the ring
compressor just before entering the cylinder
bore, so keep some pressure on the ring
compressor. Work slowly, and if any
resistance is felt as the piston enters the
cylinder, stop immediately. Find out what’s
binding, and fix it before proceeding. Do not,
for any reason, force the piston into the
cylinder - you might break a ring and/or the
piston.
10 To check the big-end bearing running
clearance, cut a piece of the appropriate-size
Plastigage slightly shorter than the width of
the connecting rod bearing, and lay it in place
on the No 1 crankpin (big-end) journal, parallel
with the crankshaft centre-line.
11 Clean the connecting rod-to-cap mating
surfaces, and refit the big-end bearing cap.
Tighten the cap bolts to the specified torque
(Chapter 2, Part A). Don’t rotate the
crankshaft at any time during this operation!
12 Unscrew the bolts and detach the cap,
being very careful not to disturb the Plastigage.
13 Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigage to the scale printed on the
Plastigage envelope, to obtain the running
clearance. Compare it to the Specifications,
to make sure the clearance is correct.

14 If the clearance is not as specified, seek
the advice of a Rover dealer or similar engine
reconditioning specialist - if the crankshaft
journals are in good condition, it may be
possible simply to renew the shells to achieve
the correct clearance. If this is not possible,
the crankshaft must be reground by a
specialist, who can also supply the necessary
undersized shells. First though, make sure
that no dirt or oil was trapped between the
bearing shells and the connecting rod or cap
when the clearance was measured. Also,
recheck the crankpin diameter. If the
Plastigage was wider at one end than the
other, the crankpin journal may be tapered.
15 Carefully scrape all traces of the
Plastigage material off the journal and the
bearing surface. Be very careful not to scratch
the bearing - use your fingernail or the edge of
a credit card.

Final piston/connecting rod
refitting

16 Make sure the bearing surfaces are
perfectly clean, then apply a uniform layer of
clean molybdenum disulphide-based grease,
engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil,
to both of them. You’ll have to push the piston
into the cylinder to expose the bearing surface
of the shell in the connecting rod.
17 Slide the connecting rod back into place
on the crankpin (big-end) journal, refit the big-
end bearing cap, and then tighten the bolts as
described above.
18 Repeat the entire procedure for the
remaining piston/connecting rod assemblies.
19 The important points to remember are:
(a) Keep the backs of the bearing shells and

the recesses of the connecting rods and
caps perfectly clean when assembling
them.

(b) Make sure you have the correct

piston/rod assembly for each cylinder.

(c) The arrow on the piston crown or the

word FRONT must face the timing belt
end of the engine.

(d) Lubricate the cylinder bores with clean

engine oil.

(e) Lubricate the bearing surfaces when

refitting the big-end bearing caps after the
running clearance has been checked.

20 After all the piston/connecting rod

assemblies have been properly installed,
rotate the crankshaft a number of times by
hand, to check for any obvious binding.
21 Continue with the engine reassembly in
the sequence given in Section 19.

23 Engine - 

initial start-up after overhaul

1

1 With the engine refitted in the vehicle,
double-check the engine oil and coolant
levels. Make a final check that everything has
been reconnected, and that there are no tools
or rags left in the engine compartment.
2 Refit the spark plugs, and connect all the
spark plug (HT) leads (Chapter 1). Switch on
the ignition and listen for the fuel pump; it will
run for a little longer than usual, due to the
lack of pressure in the system.
3 Start the engine, noting that this also may
take a little longer than usual, due to the fuel
system components being empty.
4 While the engine is idling, check for fuel,
coolant and oil leaks. Don’t be alarmed if
there are some odd smells and smoke from
parts getting hot and burning off oil deposits.
If the hydraulic tappets have been disturbed,
some valve gear noise may be heard at first;
this should disappear as the oil circulates fully
around the engine, and normal pressure is
restored in the tappets.
5 Keep the engine idling until hot water is felt
circulating through the top hose, check that it
idles reasonably smoothly and at the usual
speed, then switch it off.
6 After a few minutes, recheck the oil and
coolant levels, and top-up as necessary
(Chapter 1).
7 If they were tightened as described, there is
no need to re-tighten the cylinder head bolts
once the engine has first run after reassembly.
8 If new components such as pistons, rings
or crankshaft bearings have been fitted, the
engine must be run-in for the first 500 miles
(800 km). Do not operate the engine at full-
throttle, or allow it to labour in any gear 
during this period. It is recommended that the
oil and filter be changed at the end of this
period.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures  2C•19

2C

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

22.9  Refitting the piston and connecting

rod assemblies, with the aid of a ring

compressor

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

3

Coolant

Mixture type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

See Chapter 1

Cooling system capacity  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

See Chapter 1

Expansion tank cap

System pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.0 bar

Thermostat

4-cylinder engines:

Starts-to-open temperature  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

76º to 80ºC

Fully-open temperature  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

88ºC

V6 engines:

Fully-open temperature  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

78ºC

Air conditioning system

Refrigerant  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

R12 or R134a

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Water outlet elbow to thermostat housing  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Thermostat housing to cylinder head  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Water pump:

to cylinder block (“M” series engines)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

housing cover bolts (“T” series engines)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

5

to engine plate (V6 engines):

M6x22  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

22

16

M6x25  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12

9

Engine mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Timing belt tensioner plate  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12

9

Intercooler to radiator bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

15

11

Air conditioning condenser pipe unions:

M17 bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

17

13

M22 bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12

9

Air conditioning condenser pipe union bolts (From VIN 152206)  . . . . . .

10

7

Air conditioning compressor pipe unions  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Air conditioning compressor mounting bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Air conditioning compressor pipe bracket bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Air conditioning receiver/dryer pipe unions  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12

9

Air conditioning evaporator pipe unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Air conditioning system - general information and precautions  . . . . 13
Air conditioning system check  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Air conditioning system components - removal and refitting  . . . . . . 14
Antifreeze - general information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

Auxiliary drivebelts check and renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Coolant level check  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Cooling system electrical switches and sensors - removal and 

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

Cooling system checks (coolant leaks, hose condition)  .See Chapter 1
Cooling system hoses - disconnection and renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and refilling)  . .See Chapter 1
Electric cooling fan assembly - testing, removal and refitting  . . . . .

5

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

Heater/air conditioning controls - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . 12
Heater/ventilation components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Radiator (4-cylinder engines) - removal, inspection and refitting  . . .

7

Radiator (V6 engines) - removal, inspection and refitting  . . . . . . . . .

8

Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

Water pump (4-cylinder engines) - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . .

9

Water pump (V6 engines) - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

3•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1

1

General information

Engine cooling system

The cooling system is of the pressurized,

pump-assisted thermosyphon type. The
system consists of the radiator, water pump,
thermostat, electric cooling fan, expansion
tank and associated hoses (see illustrations).
On “M” series 4-cylinder engines, and V6
engines, the impeller type water pump is
mounted on the right-hand end of the engine,
and is driven by the timing belt. On “T” series
4-cylinder engines, the water pump is
mounted behind, and driven by, the power
steering pump, which itself is driven by the
auxiliary drive belt.

The system functions as follows. Cold

coolant in the bottom of the radiator left-hand
tank passes, via hoses and pipes, to the water
pump, where it is pumped around the cylinder
block and head passages. After cooling the
cylinder bores, combustion surfaces and valve
seats, the coolant reaches the underside of the
thermostat, which is initially closed, and is
diverted through a bypass hose to the heater
matrix. On 4-cylinder engines, after passing
through the heater, the coolant travels through
the water jacket of the inlet manifold or throttle
housing, and to the turbocharger, or to the
automatic transmission fluid cooler where
applicable, before returning to the water pump
inlet hose. On V6 engines, after passing
through the heater, the coolant circulates
through the engine oil cooler, fuel system fast
idle valve, idle control valve, throttle body and
inlet manifold and to the automatic
transmission fluid cooler, where applicable,
before returning to the water pump.

When the engine is cold, the thermostat

remains closed, and the coolant only
circulates as described. When the coolant
reaches a predetermined temperature, the
thermostat opens, and the coolant passes
through the top hose to the radiator right-
hand tank. As the coolant circulates around
the radiator, it is cooled by the inrush of air
when the car is in forward motion. Airflow is
supplemented by the action of the electric
cooling fan(s) when necessary. Upon reaching
the left-hand side of the radiator, the coolant
is now cooled and the cycle is repeated.

When the engine is at normal operating

temperature, the coolant expands, and some
of it is displaced into the expansion tank. This
coolant collects in the tank, and is returned to
the radiator when the system cools.

The electric cooling fan mounted on the

radiator is controlled by a thermostatic switch,
located in the radiator right-hand side tank. At
a predetermined coolant temperature, the
switch contacts close, thus actuating the fan.
On models equipped with air conditioning,
additional fans are fitted for cooling of the air
conditioning system condenser.

3•2 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

1.1a  Cooling system layout and flow diagram - 4-cylinder engines

1.1b  Cooling system layout - V6 engines

Dark arrows indicate hot
coolant flow
Light arrows indicate cold
coolant flow
1 Water pump
2 Radiator
3 Bottom hose

4 Thermostat housing
5 Bypass (heater) hose
6 Heater hose
7 Throttle housing
8 Automatic transmission

fluid cooler

9 Thermostat open

10 Coolant flow through top

hose

11 Cooling fan thermostatic

switch

12 Expansion tank
13 Pressure cap

1 Radiator
2 Cooling fan thermostatic

switch

3 Radiator cooling fan
4 Coolant low level switch
5 Pressure cap
6 Expansion tank

7 Water pump
8 Heater hoses
9 Water pump inlet pipe

10 Thermostat housing
11 Bottom hose
12 Top hose
13 Oil cooler

14 Oil cooler return pipe
15 Bleed screw
16 Air conditioning condenser

fan thermostatic switch

17 Air conditioning condenser

fan

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank filler
cap, or to disturb any part of the
cooling system, while it or the

engine is hot, as there is a very great risk
of scalding. If the expansion tank filler cap
must be removed before the engine and
radiator have fully cooled down (even
though this is not recommended) the
pressure in the cooling system must first
be released. Cover the cap with a thick
layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowly
unscrew the filler cap until a hissing sound
can be heard. When the hissing has
stopped, showing that pressure is
released, slowly unscrew the filler cap
further until it can be removed; if more
hissing sounds are heard, wait until they
have stopped before unscrewing the cap
completely. At all times, keep well away
from the filler opening.

Warning: If the engine is hot, the
electric cooling fan(s) may start
rotating even if the engine is not
running, so be careful to keep

hands, hair and loose clothing well clear
when working in the engine compartment.

Heating system

The heating system consists of a blower fan

and heater matrix (radiator) located in the
heater unit, with hoses connecting the heater
matrix to the engine cooling system. Hot
engine coolant is circulated through the
heater matrix. When the heater temperature
control on the facia is operated, a flap door
opens to expose the heater box to the
passenger compartment. When the blower
control is operated, the blower fan forces air
through the unit according to the setting
selected.

Air conditioning system

See Section 14.

2

Antifreeze - 
general information

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your
skin, or with the painted
surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off

spills immediately with plenty of water.
Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Never
leave antifreeze lying around in an open
container, or in puddles on the floor;
children and pets are attracted by its
sweet smell, and may drink it. Check with
local authorities about disposing of used
antifreeze - many have collection centres
which will see that antifreeze is disposed
of safely.

The cooling system should be filled with a

water/ethylene glycol-based antifreeze
solution, of a strength which will prevent
freezing down to -25ºC, or lower if the local

climate requires it. Antifreeze also provides
protection against corrosion, and increases
the coolant boiling point.

The cooling system should be maintained

according to the schedule described in
Chapter 1. If antifreeze is used that is not to
Rover’s specification, old or contaminated
coolant mixtures are likely to cause damage,
and encourage the formation of corrosion and
scale in the system. Use distilled water with
the antifreeze, if available - if not, be sure to
use only soft water. Clean rainwater is
suitable.

Before adding antifreeze, check all hoses

and hose connections, because antifreeze
tends to leak through very small openings.
Engines don’t normally consume coolant, so if
the level goes down, find the cause and
correct it.

The exact mixture of antifreeze-to-water

which you should use depends on the relative
weather conditions. On all V6 engines, and 
4-cylinder engines equipped with air
conditioning, the mixture should contain
approximately 50% antifreeze. On 4-cylinder
engines without air conditioning, approxi-
mately a 33% antifreeze mixture is
recommended. Antifreeze concentrations
greater than 55% for V6 engines or 60% for 
4-cylinder engines are not recommended as
the efficiency of the cooling system may be
impaired. Consult the mixture ratio chart on
the antifreeze container before adding
coolant. Hydrometers are available at most
automotive accessory shops to test the
coolant. Use antifreeze which meets the
vehicle manufacturer’s specifications.

3

Cooling system hoses -
disconnection and renewal

1

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
1 If the checks described in Chapter 1 
reveal a faulty hose, it must be renewed as
follows.
2 First drain the cooling system (see Chap-
ter 1); if the antifreeze is not due for renewal,
the drained coolant may be re-used, if it is
collected in a clean container.
3 To disconnect any hose, use a pair of pliers
to release the spring clamps (or a screwdriver
to slacken screw-type clamps), then move
them along the hose clear of the union.
Carefully work the hose off its stubs. The
hoses can be removed with relative ease
when new - on an older car, they may have
stuck.
4 If a hose proves stubborn, try to release it
by rotating it on its unions before attempting
to work it off. Gently prise the end of the hose
with a blunt instrument (such as a flat-bladed
screwdriver), but do not apply too much force,
and take care not to damage the pipe 
stubs or hoses. Note in particular that the

radiator hose unions are fragile; do not use
excessive force when attempting to remove
the hoses.

5 When refitting a hose, first slide the clamps
onto the hose, then work the hose onto its
unions. If the hose is stiff, use soap (or
washing-up liquid) as a lubricant, or soften it
by soaking it in boiling water, but take care to
prevent scalding.
6 Work each hose end fully onto its union,
then check that the hose is settled correctly
and is properly routed. Slide each clip along
the hose until it is behind the union flared end,
before tightening it securely.
7 Refill the system with coolant (see Chap-
ter 1).
8 Check carefully for leaks as soon as
possible after disturbing any part of the
cooling system.

4

Thermostat - 
removal, testing and refitting

1

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.

4-cylinder engines

Removal

1 Partially drain the cooling system
(approximately 2.5 litres), using the procedure
described in Chapter 1.
2 Slacken the clips and detach the radiator
top hose and expansion tank hose from the
water outlet elbow on the thermostat housing
(see illustration).
3 Undo the two bolts and remove the water

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems  3•3

4.2  Detach the radiator top hose and

expansion tank hose from the water outlet

elbow

3

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

If all else fails, cut the
coolant hose with a sharp
knife, then slit it so that it
can be peeled off in two

pieces. While expensive, this is
preferable to buying a new radiator.
Check first, however, that a new hose
is readily available.

outlet elbow (see illustrations). Remove the
gasket.
4 Withdraw the thermostat from its seat in the
housing (see illustration).
5 To remove the housing, disconnect the
coolant temperature sensor wiring
multiplug(s). A single sensor is fitted to early
engines; two are fitted to later engines.
6 Slacken the retaining clips, and disconnect
the heater pipe connecting hose from the side
of the housing.
7 Undo the two bolts, and remove the
thermostat housing and gasket from the
cylinder head (see illustration).

Testing

8 Before assuming the thermostat is to blame
for a cooling system problem, check the
coolant level, where applicable the auxiliary
drivebelt tension and condition (see Chap-
ter 1) and temperature gauge operation.
9 If the engine seems to be taking a long time
to warm up (based on heater output or
temperature gauge operation), the thermostat
is probably stuck open. Renew the
thermostat.
10 If the engine runs hot, use your hand to
check the temperature of the radiator top
hose. If the hose isn’t hot, but the engine is,
the thermostat is probably stuck closed,
preventing the coolant inside the engine from
escaping to the radiator - renew the
thermostat. 
Caution: Don’t drive the vehicle without a
thermostat. The lack of a thermostat will
slow warm-up time. The engine

management system’s ECU will then stay
in warm-up mode for longer than
necessary, causing emissions and fuel
economy to suffer.
11 If the radiator top hose is hot, it means
that the coolant is flowing and the thermostat
is open. Consult the “Fault diagnosis” section
at the front of this manual to assist in tracing
possible cooling system faults.
12 If the thermostat remains in the open
position at room temperature, it is faulty, and
must be renewed as a matter of course.
13 To test it fully, suspend the (closed)
thermostat on a length of string in a container
of cold water, with a thermometer beside it;
ensure that neither touches the side or bottom
of the container.
14 Heat the water, and check the
temperature at which the thermostat begins to
open, or is fully open. Compare this value with
the figures given in the Specifications, then
remove the thermostat and allow it to cool
down; check that it closes fully.
15 If the thermostat does not open and close
as described, if it sticks in either position, or if
it does not open at the specified temperature,
it must be renewed.

Refitting

16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
(a) Position the unit with its support legs

across the heater outlet pipe.

(b) Clean away all traces of old gasket from

the mating faces, and use a new gasket,
lightly smeared with jointing compound.

(c) Tighten the water outlet elbow retaining

bolts to the specified torque.

(d) Top up the cooling system with reference

to Chapter 1.

V6 engines

Removal

17 Refer to Chapter 4, Part D, and remove
the air cleaner components as necessary for
access to the thermostat housing.
18 Partially drain the cooling system
(approximately 2.5 litres), using the procedure
described in Chapter 1.
19 Undo the bolt securing the hose support
bracket to the thermostat housing and move
the hoses aside (see illustration).
20 Slacken the clip and detach the radiator
hose from the thermostat housing.

3•4 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

4.19  Thermostat and housing components on V6 engines

4.7  Removing the thermostat housing

4.4  Withdraw the thermostat from the

housing

4.3b  . . . and remove the water outlet

elbow

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

4.3a  Undo the two retaining bolts . . .

1 Bottom hose clip
2 Bottom hose
3 Hose support

bracket bolt

4 Thermostat

housing bolt

5 Thermostat

housing

6 Thermostat

21 Undo the three bolts and remove the
thermostat housing and gasket.
22 Withdraw the thermostat from its seat in
the housing.

Testing

23 Refer to the procedures described above
for 4-cylinder engines.

Refitting

24 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure
that the housing mating surfaces are clean
and use a new gasket.

5

Electric cooling fan
assembly - testing, removal
and refitting

5

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
Note: On cars equipped with air conditioning,
a second cooling fan for the condenser is
mounted alongside the main cooling fan for
the radiator The following procedures are
applicable to both types of installation.

Testing

1 The cooling fans are controlled by complex
circuitry and their operation is dependant on a
number of factors. Single or twin fans may be
fitted, with variable speed operation.
Numerous sensors used in conjunction with
the engine management system and, where

fitted, the air conditioning system determine
their operating temperature and at what
speed they will run.
2 If it is suspected that the cooling fan(s) are
not operating when high engine temperature
would normally require them to do so, check
the relevant fuses and relays (see Chapter 12)
and ensure that all wiring connections are
clean and soundly made.
3 Further testing can really only be carried out
successfully using Rover test equipment and
should therefore be entrusted to a dealer.

Removal

4 On pre-1992 model year vehicles, remove
the radiator grille as described in Chapter 11,
Section 19.
5 On turbocharged and V6 engines, remove
the engine undertray.
6 Undo the two bolts each side securing the
centre platform to the body side members
(see illustration).
7 Undo the nut and retaining bolt securing
the bonnet safety catch to the centre platform
(see illustration).
8 Lift the centre platform upwards, turn it
over, and cut off the cable ties securing the
bonnet release cable to the platform
underside (see illustration). Remove the
platform from the car.
9 Disconnect the cooling fan multiplug at the
wiring connector (see illustration).
10 Undo the three retaining nuts (four on
turbocharged engines), then carefully lift out

the cooling fan assembly (see illustrations).
Note that the cooling fan, motor and cowl are
a balanced assembly, and should not be
dismantled. Should renewal be necessary, all
three components are supplied as an
assembled unit.

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

6

Cooling system electrical
switches and sensors -
removal and refitting

1

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.

Cooling fan thermostatic switch

Note: On cars equipped with air conditioning,
a second thermostatic switch for the
condenser fan is mounted in the radiator side
tank, below the main thermostatic switch for
the radiator cooling fan. The following
procedures are applicable to both types of
installation.

Removal

1 Partially drain the cooling system
(approximately 2.5 litres), as described in
Chapter 1
2 Disconnect the two wires, remove the
switch retaining ring, which is a bayonet

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems  3•5

5.8  Cut off the cable ties securing the

bonnet release cable

5.7  Remove the bonnet safety catch from

the centre platform

5.6  Centre platform retaining bolts - right-

hand side (arrowed)

5.10b  Removing the cooling fan assembly

5.10a  Cooling fan upper retaining nut

(arrowed)

5.9  Disconnect the cooling fan multiplug

at the wiring connector

3

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

fitting, and withdraw the switch and seal from
the radiator (see illustration).

Refitting

3 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but renew
the seal if the old one has deteriorated. Top
up the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.

Coolant temperature sensors

Removal

4 The coolant temperature sensors contain
an element, the resistance of which alters

according to coolant temperature. The units
control the operation of the temperature
gauge, and are also used by the fuel and
ignition system control units to determine
engine temperature. Depending on the engine
management system fitted, either a single
sensor performs both functions, or a separate
sensor is used for each.
5 On 4-cylinder engines either a single
sensor, or two sensors are located on the
thermostat housing. On V6 engines a single
sensor is located in a coolant passage on top
of the engine, just below the distributor.
6 Partially drain the cooling system
(approximately 2.5 litres) as described in
Chapter 1.
7 Disconnect the wiring multiplug, then
unscrew the relevant sensor from its location
(see illustrations).

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but refill
the cooling system as described in Chap-
ter 1.

7

Radiator (4-cylinder engines)
- removal, inspection and
refitting

1

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.

Radiator - normally aspirated
engines

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1. Leave the bottom radiator hose
disconnected.
2 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnect
the radiator top hose.
3 Disconnect the cooling fan motor
multiplug(s) at the wiring connector(s).
4 Disconnect the wires at the thermostatic
switch(s) just below the top hose outlet.
5 On pre-1992 model year vehicles, remove
the radiator grille as described in Chapter 11,
Section 19.
6 Undo the two bolts each side securing the
centre platform to the body side members
(see illustration 5.6).

7 Undo the nut and retaining bolt securing
the bonnet safety catch to the centre platform
(see illustration 5.7).
8 Lift the centre platform upwards, turn it
over, and cut off the cable ties securing the
bonnet release cable to the platform
underside. Remove the platform from the 
car.
9 Lift the radiator upwards, and carefully
remove it from the car.
10 With the radiator removed, it can be
inspected for leaks and damage. If it needs
repair, have a radiator specialist or dealer
service department perform the work, as
special techniques are required. Clear the
matrix of flies and small leaves with a soft
brush, or by hosing.
11 Reverse-flush the radiator, as described
in Chapter 1. Renew the top and bottom
hoses and clips if they are damaged or have
deteriorated.

Refitting

12 Refitting the radiator is a reversal of
removal, but ensure that the lower mounting
lugs engage in the rubber grommets, and the
centre platform grommets locate over the
radiator upper lugs (see illustrations). Re-
secure the bonnet release cable to the centre
platform, using new cable ties. On
completion, fill the cooling system as
described in Chapter 1.

3•6 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

7.12b  . . . and the centre platform

grommets (arrowed) locate over the

radiator upper lugs

7.12a  Ensure that the radiator lower lugs

(arrowed) engage with the rubber

grommets . . .

6.7b  Coolant temperature sensor location on V6 engines

1  Wiring multiplug           2  Temperature sensor

6.7a  Disconnecting the coolant

temperature sensor multiplug on the 

4-cylinder engine

2 Top hose 

retaining clip

4 Wiring 

connectors

10 Switch retaining

ring

11 Switch
12 Seal

6.2  Cooling fan thermostatic switch

components

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Radiator and intercooler -
turbocharged engines

Removal

13 Remove the right-hand headlight lens unit
as described in Chapter 12, Section 7.
14 Remove the air cleaner components, as
necessary for access to the radiator, as
described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
15 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1. Leave the bottom radiator hose
disconnected.
16 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnect
the radiator top hose.
17 Disconnect the cooling fan motor
multiplug(s) at the wiring connector(s).
18 Disconnect the wires at the thermostatic
switch(s) just below the top hose outlet.
19 On pre-1992 model year vehicles, remove
the radiator grille as described in Chapter 11,
Section 19.
20 Undo the two bolts each side securing the
centre platform to the body side members.
21 Undo the nut and retaining bolt securing
the bonnet safety catch to the centre
platform.
22 Lift the centre platform upwards, turn it
over, and cut off the cable ties securing the
bonnet release cable to the platform
underside. Remove the platform from the car.
23 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect the
coolant outlet hose at the turbocharger.
24 Slacken the retaining clip and remove the
air intake hose from the turbocharger.
25 Slacken the two clips and remove the air
intake and outlet hoses from the intercooler.
26 Lift the radiator and intercooler upwards,
and carefully remove the assembly from the car.
27 If required, remove the upper and lower
mounting bolts and nuts and separate the
intercooler from the radiator.
28 With the radiator removed, it can be
inspected for leaks and damage. If it needs
repair, have a radiator specialist or dealer
service department perform the work, as special
techniques are required. Clear the matrix of flies
and small leaves with a soft brush, or by hosing.
29 Reverse-flush the radiator, as described
in Chapter 1. Renew the top and bottom
hoses and clips if they are damaged or have
deteriorated.

Refitting

30 Refitting the radiator and intercooler is a
reversal of removal, but ensure that the lower
mounting lugs engage in the rubber
grommets, and the centre platform grommets
locate over the radiator upper lugs. Re-secure
the bonnet release cable to the centre
platform, using new cable ties. On
completion, fill the cooling system as
described in Chapter 1.

8

Radiator (V6 engines) -
removal, inspection and
refitting

1

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1. Leave the bottom radiator hose
disconnected.
2 On pre-1992 model year vehicles, remove
the radiator grille as described in Chapter 11,
Section 19.
3 Undo the two bolts each side securing the
centre platform to the body side members
(see illustration 5.6).
4 On vehicles with air conditioning, undo the
two nuts securing the condenser to the front
of the centre platform (see illustration).
5 Undo the nut and retaining bolt securing
the bonnet safety catch to the centre platform
(see illustration 5.7).
6 On vehicles equipped with air conditioning,
cut off the cable ties or undo the screws and
release the support straps, securing the
various hoses to the centre platform and to
the fan cowl (see illustration).
7 Lift the centre platform upwards, turn it
over, and cut off the cable ties securing the
bonnet release cable to the platform
underside. Remove the platform from the car.
8 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnect
the radiator top hose.
9 Disconnect the cooling fan motor
multiplug(s) at the wiring connector(s).
10 Disconnect the wires at the thermostatic
switch(s) just below the top hose outlet.

11 Where applicable, unscrew the union nuts
and disconnect the automatic transmission oil
cooler pipes from the radiator. Cover the
disconnected pipes and fit blanking plugs to
the radiator ports.
12 Lift the radiator upwards, and carefully
remove it from the car.
13 With the radiator removed, it can be
inspected for leaks and damage. If it needs
repair, have a radiator specialist or dealer
service department perform the work, as
special techniques are required. Clear the
matrix of flies and small leaves with a soft
brush, or by hosing.
14 Reverse-flush the radiator, as described
in Chapter 1. Renew the top and bottom
hoses and clips if they are damaged or have
deteriorated.

Refitting

15 Refitting the radiator is a reversal of
removal, but ensure that the lower mounting
lugs engage in the rubber grommets, and the
centre platform grommets locate over the
radiator upper lugs (see illustrations 7.12a and
7.12b). Re-secure the bonnet release cable
and hoses to the centre platform, using new
cable ties. On completion, fill the cooling
system as described in Chapter 1. On models
with automatic transmission, top up the
transmission fluid as described in Chapter 1.

9

Water pump (4-cylinder
engines) - 
removal and refitting

4

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.

“M” Series engines

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.
2 Remove the timing belt as described in
Chapter 2, Part A.
3 Undo the three remaining bolts securing the
lower backplate to the engine, noting that on
some engines, one bolt also retains a breather
hose clip, and one retains an oil pipe clip.
Remove the lower backplate (see illustration).

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems  3•7

8.6  Undo the screw and release the hose

support strap from the fan cowl

8.4  Condenser-to-centre platform

retaining nuts (arrowed) on the right-hand

side

9.3  Removing the lower backplate from

the engine (early metal version shown,

later plastic version similar)

3

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

4 If not already done, undo the centre
retaining bolt and remove the timing belt
tensioner.
5 Slacken the clip and detach the water inlet
hose from the rear of the pump.
6 Undo the bolt securing the support strut to
the rear of the pump housing (see
illustration).
7 Undo the four bolts securing the right-hand
engine mounting bracket to the water pump,
then remove the bracket (see illustration).
8 Undo the remaining two bolts securing the
water pump to the cylinder block (see
illustration).
9 Have a container handy to catch any
remaining coolant, then withdraw the pump
from the block. If necessary, carefully tap the
pump body with a soft-faced mallet to free it.
10 With the pump removed, scrape away all
traces of RTV sealant from the pump and
cylinder block mating faces, ensuring that
both are completely clean and dry.
11 If the pump is to be renewed, undo the
three bolts or Torx type socket-headed
screws, as applicable, and remove the timing
belt tensioner mounting plate so that it can be
transferred to the new pump. Note, however,
that it will be necessary to obtain new bolts or
screws, prior to refitting. These are of the
micro-encapsulated type incorporating
locking compound in their threads;
consequently, they can only be used once.

Refitting

12 If removed, locate the timing belt
tensioner mounting plate in position, and fit

the three bolts or screws tightened to the
specified torque.
Do not attempt to retighten any of the screws
or bolts after the locking compound has set
(approximately two minutes), otherwise the
locking properties will be destroyed, and the
screws may loosen in service.
13 Apply a thin, continuous bead of RTV
sealant to the cylinder block mating face, and
locate the water pump in position (see
illustration).
14 Apply thread sealer to the two pump
retaining bolts, and fit them finger-tight at this
stage.
15 Apply thread sealer to the four engine
mounting bracket-to-pump bolts, fit the
bracket and tighten the bolts to the specified
torque. Now tighten the two pump bolts fitted
previously.
16 Refit the bolt securing the support strut to
the rear of the pump housing.
17 Reconnect the inlet water hose.
18 Refit the lower backplate to the engine,
and secure with the three bolts.
19 Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, and refit the
timing belt.
20 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt and refill the
cooling system as described in Chapter 1.

“T” Series engines

Removal

21 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.
22 Slacken the clip and detach the water
inlet hose from the rear of the pump cover
(see illustration).
23 Undo the five bolts and remove the pump
cover from the housing.
24 Withdraw the pump assembly from the
housing and, where fitted, collect and discard
the three sealing rings. The sealing rings are
used on factory assembly, but Loctite sealer
is used instead, when the pump is refitted or
renewed in service.
25 Thoroughly clean the sealing ring 
grooves, removing all traces of any old
sealant (if the pump has been removed
previously).

Refitting

26 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
apply Loctite 405 to the sealing ring grooves,
and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified
torque. Refill the cooling system as described
in Chapter 1 on completion.

3•8 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

9.22  Water pump components on the “T” series engine

1 Hose clip
2 Water inlet hose
3 Pump cover retaining bolts

4 Water pump cover
5 Water pump

6 Sealing rings
7 Inner sealing ring

9.13  Apply RTV sealant to the cylinder

block mating face

9.8  Undo the remaining two bolts securing

the water pump to the cylinder block

9.7  Undo the four bolts securing the right-

hand engine mounting bracket to the

water pump

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

9.6  Undo the bolt (arrowed) securing the

support strut to the housing

H27493

10 Water pump (V6 engines) -

removal and refitting

4

Note: Due to the layout of the V6 engine and
the limited space available in the engine
compartment, access to most components is
extremely limited and may present unforseen
difficulties. Read through all the relevant
procedures and familiarize yourself with
what’s involved before proceeding.
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.
2 Remove the timing belt and timing belt
tensioner as described in Chapter 2, Part B.
3 Undo the nine bolts securing the water
pump to the engine front plate, noting that
two are of a different length than the rest (see
illustration).
4 Withdraw the water pump and recover the
large sealing O-ring.
5 Thoroughly clean the mating faces, locating
dowels and O-ring recesses.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a
new sealing O-ring, and tighten the retaining
bolts to the specified torque. Refit the timing
belt and tensioner as described in Chapter 2,

Part B, and refill the cooling system as
described in Chapter 1.

11 Heater/ventilation

components - 
removal and refitting

1

Heater blower motor and
housing assembly

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2 Remove the trim panel under the facia on
the passenger’s side.

3 Open the glovebox, undo the two screws
securing the glovebox bar, and remove the
glovebox.
4 Disconnect the air duct from the side of the
unit, and recover the seals (see illustration).
5 Release the screw cap and undo the facia
retaining bolt at the extreme end, adjacent to
the door aperture.
6 Disconnect the blower motor wiring
multiplug 

(see illustration).

7 Disconnect the vacuum hose at the
solenoid 

(see illustration).

8 Undo the two upper bolts and one lower
nut securing the heater housing assembly in
position, and remove the unit from under the
facia (see illustrations).

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems  3•9

11.4  Exploded view of the heater blower motor housing assembly

10.3  Water pump retaining bolts (arrowed)

on V6 engines

11.8a  Undo the two upper bolts 

(arrowed) . . .

11.7  Solenoid vacuum hose (arrowed)

11.6  Blower motor wiring multiplug

3

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Fan
2 Relay
3 Air box
4 Vacuum actuator
5 Vacuum solenoid
6 Seal
7 Harness
8 Gasket
9 Air flap
10 Air duct
11 Control assembly
12 Distribution cable
13 Temperature cable