Buick-Rainier (2004 year). Manual

Weight of the Trailer Tongue

The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total or gross weight
of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)
includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you
may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in
the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment,
passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the
tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will
also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow.
And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue
load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying
that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle for more
information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to
15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight, up to a
maximum or 400 lbs. (181 kg) with a weight carrying
hitch. The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent
to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight, up to a
maximum of 900 lbs. (408 kg) with a weight distributing
hitch.

Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight
for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension
that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle.
This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight
on the rear axle.

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After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights
are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them
right simply by moving some items around in the
trailer.

Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires

Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper
limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the
Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door
or see Loading Your Vehicle for more information.
Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your
vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the
trailer tongue. If you use a weight distributing hitch,
make sure you don’t go over the rear axle limit before
you apply the weight distribution spring bars.

Hitches

It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads
are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.

Weight Distributing Hitches and Weight
Carrying Hitches

When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must
be adjusted so the distance (A) remains the same both
before and after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle.

If you use a step-bumper hitch, the bumper could
be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure there is ample
room when turning to avoid contact between the
trailer and the bumper.

(A) Body to Ground Distance, (B) Front of Vehicle

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If you will be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will
weigh more than 5,000 lbs (2 270 kg) be sure to use a
properly mounted weight-distributing hitch and sway
control of the proper size. This equipment is very
important for proper vehicle loading and good handling
when driving. Always use a sway control if the trailer
will weigh more than these limits. You can ask a
hitch dealer about sway controls.

Safety Chains

You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from
contacting the road if it becomes separated from the
hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided
by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer.
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper.
Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your
rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.

Trailer Brakes

If your trailer weighs more than 1,500 lbs. (680 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes — and they must
be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust
and maintain them properly.

Your trailer’s brake system can tap into the vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system only if:

•

The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.

•

The trailer’s brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.

If everything checks out this far, then make the brake
fluid tap at the port on the master cylinder that
sends fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper
tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break
off. Use steel brake tubing.

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Driving with a Trailer

{

CAUTION:

If you have a rear-most window open and you
pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle.
You can not see or smell CO. It can cause
unconsciousness or death. See Engine
Exhaust on page 2-29. To maximize your safety
when towing a trailer:

•

Have your exhaust system inspected for
leaks, and make necessary repairs before
starting on your trip.

•

Keep the rear-most windows closed.

•

If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with
the fan on any speed. This will bring
fresh, outside air into your vehicle.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

Do not use the climate control setting for
maximum air because it only recirculates
the air inside your vehicle. See Dual
Automatic Climate Control System on
page 3-20.

Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.

Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connection, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.

During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.

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Following Distance

Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.

Passing

You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re
towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer,
you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle
before you can return to your lane.

Backing Up

Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.

Making Turns

Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer

The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.

When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.

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Driving On Grades

Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you
start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much
that they would get hot and no longer work well.

You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or a lower gear, under heavy
loads or hilly conditions.

When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a
few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do
get the overheat warning, see Engine Overheating
on page 5-29.

Parking on Hills

{

CAUTION:

You really should not park your vehicle, with
a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:

1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) yet. When parking uphill, turn your wheels
away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn
your wheels into the curb.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer

wheels.

3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the

regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your

parking brake, and then shift into PARK (P).

5. Release the regular brakes.

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When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill

1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal

down while you:

•

start your engine,

•

shift into a gear, and

•

release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal.

3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.

4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the

chocks.

Maintenance When Trailer Towing

Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill),
engine oil, axle lubricant, belt(s), cooling system and
brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual,
and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re
trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before
you start your trip.

Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.

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Trailer Wiring Harness

Your vehicle is equipped with a seven-wire trailer towing
harness. This harness has a seven-pin universal
heavy-duty trailer connector that is attached to a bracket
on the hitch platform.

The seven-wire harness contains the following trailer
circuits:

•

Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal

•

Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal

•

Brown: Running Lamps

•

White: Ground

•

Light Green: Back-up Lamps

•

Red: Battery Feed

•

Dark Blue: Electric Brakes

If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard
four-way round pin connector, an adapter connector is
available from your dealer.

Your vehicle is also equipped with wiring for an electric
trailer brake controller. These wires are located inside
the vehicle on the driver’s side under the instrument
panel. These wires should be connected to an electric
trailer brake controller by your dealer or a qualified
service center.

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Service

Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to
be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer
for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts
and GM-trained and supported service people.

We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM.
Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

California Proposition 65 Warning

Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or
emit chemicals known to the State of California to
cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive
harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems
(including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and
some component wear by-products contain and/or emit
these chemicals.

Doing Your Own Service Work

If you want to do some of your own service work, you will
want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much
more about how to service your vehicle than this manual
can. To order the proper service manual, see Service
Publications Ordering Information on page 7-12.

Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting
to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Air
Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-55.

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You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list
the mileage and the date of any service work you
perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-16.

{

CAUTION:

You can be injured and your vehicle could be
damaged if you try to do service work on a
vehicle without knowing enough about it.

•

Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,
experience, the proper replacement parts
and tools before you attempt any vehicle
maintenance task.

•

Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and
other fasteners. “English” and “metric”
fasteners can be easily confused. If you
use the wrong fasteners, parts can later
break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside
of Your Vehicle

Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle
can affect the airflow around it. This may cause
wind noise and affect windshield washer performance.
Check with your dealer before adding equipment to
the outside of your vehicle.

Fuel

Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the
proper maintenance of your vehicle.

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Gasoline Octane

Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87
or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a
heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs,
use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as
possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine.
A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is
considered normal. This does not indicate a problem
exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary. If you are
using 87 octane or higher-octane fuel and hear heavy
knocking, your engine needs service.

Gasoline Specifications

It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications
which were developed by automobile manufacturers
around the world and contained in the World-Wide
Fuel Charter which is available from the Alliance
of Automobile Manufacturers at www.autoalliance.org.
Gasoline meeting these specifications could provide
improved driveability and emission control system
performance compared to other gasoline.

In Canada, look for the
“Auto Makers’ Choice”
label on the pump.

Canada Only

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California Fuel

If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission
Standards (see the underhood emission control label),
it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California
specifications. If this fuel is not available in states
adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle
will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal
specifications, but emission control system performance
may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn
on (see Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-35 ) and
your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs,
return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is
determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel
used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.

Additives

To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States
are now required to contain additives that will help
prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming,
allowing your emission control system to work properly.
You should not have to add anything to your fuel.
However, some gasolines contain only the minimum
amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental
Protection Agency regulations. General Motors
recommends that you buy gasolines that are advertised
to help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean. If your
vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or
valves, try a different brand of gasoline.

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Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and
ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available
in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors
recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly
if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel
that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing
methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel
system and also damage the plastic and rubber
parts. That damage would not be covered under
your warranty.

Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low
emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive
called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl
(MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline
whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors
does not recommend the use of such gasolines.

Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark
plugs and the performance of the emission control
system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp
may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized
GM dealer for service.

Fuels in Foreign Countries

If you plan on driving in another country outside the
United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard
to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel
not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly
repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not
be covered by your warranty.

To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or
contact a major oil company that does business in the
country where you will be driving.

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Filling Your Tank

{

CAUTION:

Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can
cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to
you and others, read and follow all the
instructions on the pump island. Turn off your
engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke
if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle.
Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials
away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump
unattended when refueling your vehicle — this
is against the law in some places. Keep
children away from the fuel pump; never let
children pump fuel.

The fuel cap is located behind a hinged door on the
driver’s side of your vehicle.

5-8

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Buick-Rainier (2004 year). Manual - part 18