FM 3-05.70 Field Manual Survival (17 May 2002)

8-11. In fresh water, look for mollusks in the shallows, especially

in water with a sandy or muddy bottom. Look for the narrow

trails they leave in the mud or for the dark elliptical slit of their

open valves.

8-12. Near the sea, look in the tidal pools and the wet sand. Rocks

along beaches or extending as reefs into deeper water often bear

clinging shellfish. Snails and limpets cling to rocks and seaweed

from the low water mark upward. Large snails, called chitons,

adhere tightly to rocks above the surf line.

8-13. Mussels usually form dense colonies in rock pools, on logs,

or at the base of boulders.

CAUTION

Mussels may be poisonous in tropical zones during the

summer! If a noticeable red tide has occurred within

72 hours, do not eat any fish or shellfish from that water

source.

8-14. Steam, boil, or bake mollusks in the shell. They make

excellent stews in combination with greens and tubers.

CAUTION

Do not eat shellfish that are not covered by water at

high tide!

FISH

8-15. Fish represent a good source of protein and fat. They offer

some distinct advantages to the survivor or evader. They are

usually more abundant than mammal wildlife, and the ways to

get them are silent. To be successful at catching fish, you must

know their habits. For instance, fish tend to feed heavily before a

storm. Fish are not likely to feed after a storm when the water is

muddy and swollen. Light often attracts fish at night. When there

is a heavy current, fish will rest in places where there is an eddy,

such as near rocks. Fish will also gather where there are deep

8-5

pools, under overhanging brush, and in and around submerged

foliage, logs, or other objects that offer them shelter.

8-16. There are no poisonous freshwater fish. However, the

catfish species has sharp, needlelike protrusions on its dorsal fins

and barbels. These can inflict painful puncture wounds that

quickly become infected.

8-17. Cook all freshwater fish to kill parasites. As a precaution,

also cook saltwater fish caught within a reef or within the

influence of a freshwater source. Any marine life obtained farther

out in the sea will not contain parasites because of the saltwater

environment. You can eat these raw.

8-18. Most fish encountered are edible. The organs of some species

are always poisonous to man; other fish can become toxic because

of elements in their diets. Ciguatera is a form of human poisoning

caused by the consumption of subtropical and tropical marine fish

which have accumulated naturally occurring toxins through their

diet. These toxins build up in the fish’s tissues. The toxins are

known to originate from several algae species that are common to

ciguatera endemic regions in the lower latitudes. Cooking does not

eliminate the toxins; neither does drying, smoking, or marinating.

Marine fish most commonly implicated in ciguatera poisoning

include the barracudas, jacks, mackerel, triggerfish, snappers, and

groupers. Many other species of warm water fishes harbor

ciguatera toxins. The occurrence of toxic fish is sporadic, and not

all fish of a given species or from a given locality will be toxic. This

explains why red snapper and grouper are a coveted fish off the

shores of Florida and the East Coast. While they are a restaurant

and fisherman’s favorite, and a common fish market choice, they

can also be associated with 100 cases of food poisonings in May

1988, Palm Beach County, Florida. The poisonings resulted in a

statewide warning against eating hogfish, grouper, red snapper,

amberjack, and barracuda caught at the Dry Tortuga Bank. A

major outbreak of ciguatera occurred in Puerto Rico between April

and June

1981 prompting a ban on the sale of barracuda,

amberjack, and blackjack. Other examples of poisonous saltwater

fish are the porcupine fish, cowfish, thorn fish, oilfish, and puffer

(Figure 8-2, page 8-7).

8-6

AMPHIBIANS

8-19. Frogs are easily found around bodies of fresh water.

Frogs seldom move from the safety of the water’s edge. At the

first sign of danger, they plunge into the water and bury

themselves in the mud and debris. Frogs are characterized by

smooth, moist skin. There are few poisonous species of frogs.

Avoid any brightly colored frog or one that has a distinct “X”

mark on its back as well as all tree frogs. Do not confuse toads

with frogs. Toads may be recognized by their dry, “warty” or

bumpy skin. They are usually found on land in drier

environments. Several species of toads secrete a poisonous

substance through their skin as a defense against attack.

Therefore, to avoid poisoning, do not handle or eat toads.

8-20. Do not eat salamanders; only about

25 percent of all

salamanders are edible, so it is not worth the risk of selecting a

poisonous variety. Salamanders are found around the water. They

are characterized by smooth, moist skin and have only four toes

on each foot.

REPTILES

8-21. Reptiles are a good protein source and relatively easy to

catch. Thorough cooking and hand washing is imperative with

reptiles. All reptiles are considered to be carriers of salmonella,

which exists naturally on their skin. Turtles and snakes are

especially known to infect man. If you are in an undernourished

state and your immune system is weak, salmonella can be deadly.

Cook food thoroughly and be especially fastidious washing your

hands after handling any reptile. Lizards are plentiful in most

parts of the world. They may be recognized by their dry, scaly

skin. They have five toes on each foot. The only poisonous ones

are the Gila monster and the Mexican beaded lizard. Care must

be taken when handling and preparing the iguana and the

monitor lizard, as they commonly harbor the salmonellal virus in

their mouth and teeth. The tail meat is the best tasting and

easiest to prepare.

8-22. Turtles are a very good source of meat. There are actually

seven different flavors of meat in each snapping turtle. Most of

the meat will come from the front and rear shoulder area,

although a large turtle may have some on its neck. The box turtle

(Figure 8-3, page 8-9) is a commonly encountered turtle that you

8-8

should not eat. It feeds on poisonous mushrooms and may build

up a highly toxic poison in its flesh. Cooking does not destroy this

toxin. Also avoid the hawksbill turtle (Figure 8-3), found in the

Atlantic Ocean, because of its poisonous thorax gland. Poisonous

snakes, alligators, crocodiles, and large sea turtles present

obvious hazards to the survivor.

Figure 8-3. Turtles With Poisonous Flesh

BIRDS

8-23. All species of birds are edible, although the flavor will vary

considerably. The only poisonous bird is the Pitohui, native only

to New Guinea. You may skin fish-eating birds to improve their

taste. As with any wild animal, you must understand birds’

common habits to have a realistic chance of capturing them. You

can take pigeons, as well as some other species, from their roost

at night by hand. During the nesting season, some species will

not leave the nest even when approached. Knowing where and

when the birds nest makes catching them easier (Figure 8-4, page

8-10). Birds tend to have regular flyways going from the roost to a

feeding area, to water, and so forth. Careful observation should

reveal where these flyways are and indicate good areas for

catching birds in nets stretched across the flyways (Figure 8-5,

page 8-11). Roosting sites and waterholes are some of the most

promising areas for trapping or snaring.

8-9

8-24. Nesting birds present another food source—eggs. Remove

all but two or three eggs from the clutch, marking the ones that

you leave. The bird will continue to lay more eggs to fill the

clutch. Continue removing the fresh eggs, leaving the ones you

marked.

Types of Birds

Frequent Nesting Places

Nesting Periods

Inland birds.

Tree, woods, or fields.

Spring and early summer

in temperate and arctic

regions; year-round in the

tropics.

Cranes and

Mangrove swamps or high Spring and early summer.

herons.

trees near water.

Some species of

High trees.

Late December through

owls.

March.

Ducks, geese, and Tundra areas near ponds,

Spring and early summer

swans.

rivers, or lakes.

in arctic regions.

Some sea birds.

Sandbars or low sand

Spring and early summer

islands.

in temperate and arctic

regions.

Gulls, auks,

Steep rocky coasts.

Spring and early summer

murres, and

in temperate and arctic

cormorants.

regions.

Figure 8-4. Birds’ Nesting Places

MAMMALS

8-25. Mammals are excellent protein sources and, for Americans,

the tastiest food source. There are some drawbacks to obtaining

mammals. In a hostile environment, the enemy may detect any

traps or snares placed on land. The amount of injury an animal

can inflict is in direct proportion to its size. All mammals have

teeth and nearly all will bite in self-defense. Even a squirrel can

inflict a serious wound and any bite presents a serious risk of

infection. Also, any mother can be extremely aggressive in

defense of her young. Any animal with no route of escape will

fight when cornered.

8-10

Figure 8-5. Catching Birds in a Net

8-26. All mammals are edible; however, the polar bear and

bearded seal have toxic levels of vitamin A in their livers. The

platypus, native to Australia and Tasmania, is an egg-laying,

semiaquatic mammal that has poisonous claws on its hind legs.

Scavenging mammals, such as the opossum, may carry diseases.

TRAPS AND SNARES

8-27. For an unarmed survivor or evader, or when the sound of a

rifle shot could be a problem, trapping or snaring wild game is a

good alternative. Several well-placed traps have the potential to

catch much more game than a man with a rifle is likely to shoot.

To be effective with any type of trap or snare, you must—

• Be familiar with the species of animal you intend to catch.

• Be capable of constructing a proper trap and properly

masking your scent.

• Not alarm the prey by leaving signs of your presence.

8-11

8-28. There are no catchall traps you can set for all animals. You

must determine what species are in the area and set your traps

specifically with those animals in mind. Look for the following:

• Runs and trails.

• Tracks.

• Droppings.

• Chewed or rubbed vegetation.

• Nesting or roosting sites.

• Feeding and watering areas.

8-29. Position your traps and snares where there is proof that

animals pass through. You must determine if it is a “run” or a

“trail.” A trail will show signs of use by several species and will be

rather distinct. A run is usually smaller and less distinct and will

only contain signs of one species. You may construct a perfect

snare, but it will not catch anything if haphazardly placed in the

woods. Animals have bedding areas, water holes, and feeding

areas with trails leading from one to another. You must place

snares and traps around these areas to be effective.

8-30. If you are in a hostile environment, trap and snare

concealment is important. However, it is equally important not to

create a disturbance that will alarm the animal and cause it to

avoid the trap. Therefore, if you must dig, remove all fresh dirt

from the area. Most animals will instinctively avoid a pitfall-type

trap. Prepare the various parts of a trap or snare away from the

site, carry them in, and set them up. Such actions make it easier

to avoid disturbing the local vegetation, thereby alerting the prey.

Do not use freshly cut, live vegetation to construct a trap or

snare. Freshly cut vegetation will “bleed” sap that has an odor the

prey will be able to smell. It is an alarm signal to the animal.

8-31. You must remove or mask the human scent on and around

the trap you set. Although birds do not have a developed sense of

smell, nearly all mammals depend on smell even more than on

sight. Even the slightest human scent on a trap will alarm the

prey and cause it to avoid the area. Actually removing the scent

from a trap is difficult but masking it is relatively easy. Use the

fluid from the gall and urine bladders of previous kills. Do not use

human urine. Mud, particularly from an area with plenty of

rotting vegetation, is also good. Use it to coat your hands when

8-12

handling the trap and to coat the trap when setting it. In nearly

all parts of the world, animals know the smell of burned

vegetation and smoke. It is only when a fire is actually burning

that they become alarmed. Therefore, smoking the trap parts is

an effective means to mask your scent. If one of the above

techniques is not practical, and if time permits, allow a trap to

weather for a few days and then set it. Do not handle a trap while

it is weathering. When you position the trap, camouflage it as

naturally as possible to prevent detection by the enemy and to

avoid alarming the prey.

8-32. Traps or snares placed on a trail or run should use

funneling or channelization. To build a channel, construct a

funnel-shaped barrier extending from the sides of the trail toward

the trap, with the narrowest part nearest the trap.

Channelization should be inconspicuous to avoid alerting the

prey. As the animal gets to the trap, it cannot turn left or right

and continues into the trap. Few wild animals will back up,

preferring to face the direction of travel. Channelization does not

have to be an impassable barrier. You only have to make it

inconvenient for the animal to go over or through the barrier. For

best effect, the channelization should reduce the trail’s width to

just slightly wider than the targeted animal’s body. Maintain this

constriction at least as far back from the trap as the animal’s

body length, then begin the widening toward the mouth of the

funnel.

USE OF BAIT

8-33. Baiting a trap or snare increases your chances of catching

an animal. When catching fish, you must bait nearly all the

devices. Success with an unbaited trap depends on its placement

in a good location. A baited trap can actually draw animals to it.

The bait should be something the animal knows. However, this

bait should not be so readily available in the immediate area that

the animal can get it close by. For example, baiting a trap with

corn in the middle of a cornfield would not be likely to work.

Likewise, if corn is not grown in the region, a corn-baited trap

may arouse an animal’s curiosity and keep it alerted while it

ponders the strange food. Under such circumstances it may not go

for the bait. One bait that works well on small mammals is the

8-13

peanut butter from a meal, ready-to-eat (MRE) ration. Salt is also

a good bait. When using such baits, scatter bits of it around the

trap to give the prey a chance to sample it and develop a craving

for it. The animal will then overcome some of its caution before it

gets to the trap.

8-34. If you set and bait a trap for one species but another species

takes the bait without being caught, try to determine what the

animal was. Then set a proper trap for that animal, using the

same bait.

NOTE: Once you have successfully trapped an animal, you will

not only gain confidence in your ability, you will also have

resupplied yourself with bait for several more traps.

CONSTRUCTION

8-35. Traps and snares crush, choke, hang, or entangle the prey.

A single trap or snare will commonly incorporate two or more of

these principles. The mechanisms that provide power to the trap

are usually very simple. The struggling victim, the force of

gravity, or a bent sapling’s tension provides the power.

8-36. The heart of any trap or snare is the trigger. When planning a

trap or snare, ask yourself how it should affect the prey, what is the

source of power, and what will be the most efficient trigger. Your

answers will help you devise a specific trap for a specific species.

Traps are designed to catch and hold or to catch and kill. Snares are

traps that incorporate a noose to accomplish either function.

Simple Snare

8-37. A simple snare (Figure 8-6, page 8-15) consists of a noose

placed over a trail or den hole and attached to a firmly planted

stake. If the noose is some type of cordage placed upright on a

game trail, use small twigs or blades of grass to hold it up.

Filaments from spider webs are excellent for holding nooses open.

Make sure the noose is large enough to pass freely over the

animal’s head. As the animal continues to move, the noose

tightens around its neck. The more the animal struggles, the

tighter the noose gets. This type of snare usually does not kill the

animal. If you use cordage, it may loosen enough to slip off the

animal’s neck. Wire is therefore the best choice for a simple snare.

8-14

Figure 8-6. Simple Snare

Drag Noose

8-38. Use a drag noose on an animal run (Figure 8-7, page 8-16).

Place forked sticks on either side of the run and lay a sturdy

crossmember across them. Tie the noose to the crossmember and

hang it at a height above the animal’s head. (Nooses designed to

catch by the head should never be low enough for the prey to step

into with a foot.) As the noose tightens around the animal’s neck,

the animal pulls the crossmember from the forked sticks and

drags it along. The surrounding vegetation quickly catches the

crossmember and the animal becomes entangled.

Twitch-Up

8-39. A twitch-up is a supple sapling that, when bent over and

secured with a triggering device, will provide power to a variety of

snares. Select a hickory or other hardwood sapling along the trail.

A twitch-up will work much faster and with more force if you

remove all the branches and foliage.

8-15

Figure 8-7. Drag Noose

Twitch-Up Snare

8-40. A simple twitch-up snare uses two forked sticks, each with

a long and short leg (Figure 8-8, page 8-17). Bend the twitch-up

and mark the trail below it. Drive the long leg of one forked stick

firmly into the ground at that point. Ensure the cut on the short

leg of this stick is parallel to the ground. Tie the long leg of the

remaining forked stick to a piece of cordage secured to the twitch-

up. Cut the short leg so that it catches on the short leg of the

other forked stick. Extend a noose over the trail. Set the trap by

bending the twitch-up and engaging the short legs of the forked

sticks. When an animal catches its head in the noose, it pulls the

forked sticks apart, allowing the twitch-up to spring up and hang

the prey.

NOTE: Do not use green sticks for the trigger. The sap that oozes

out could glue them together.

8-16

Figure 8-8. Twitch-Up Snare

Squirrel Pole

8-41. A squirrel pole is a long pole placed against a tree in an

area showing a lot of squirrel activity (Figure 8-9, page 8-18).

Place several wire nooses along the top and sides of the pole so

that a squirrel trying to go up or down the pole will have to pass

through one or more of them. Position the nooses

(5 to

centimeters [2 to 2 1/4-inches] in diameter) about 2.5 centimeters

(1 inch) off the pole. Place the top and bottom wire nooses 45

centimeters (18 inches) from the top and bottom of the pole to

prevent the squirrel from getting its feet on a solid surface. If this

happens, the squirrel will chew through the wire. Squirrels are

naturally curious. After an initial period of caution, they will try

to go up or down the pole and will be caught in the noose. The

struggling animal will soon fall from the pole and strangle. Other

squirrels will soon be drawn to the commotion. In this way, you

can catch several squirrels. You can emplace multiple poles to

increase the catch.

8-17

Figure. 8-9. Squirrel Pole

Ojibwa Bird Pole

8-42. An Ojibwa bird pole is a snare that has been used by Native

Americans for centuries (Figure 8-10, page 8-19). To be effective,

it should be placed in a relatively open area away from tall trees.

For best results, pick a spot near feeding areas, dusting areas, or

watering holes. Cut a pole 1.8 to 2.1 meters (6 to 7 feet) long and

trim away all limbs and foliage. Do not use resinous wood such as

pine. Sharpen the upper end to a point, then drill a small-

diameter hole 5 to 7.5 centimeters (2 to 3 inches) down from the

top. Cut a small stick 10 to 15 centimeters (4 to 6 inches) long and

shape one end so that it will almost fit into the hole. This is the

perch. Plant the long pole in the ground with the pointed end up.

Tie a small weight, about equal to the weight of the targeted

species, to a length of cordage. Pass the free end of the cordage

through the hole, and tie a slip noose that covers the perch. Tie a

single overhand knot in the cordage and place the perch against

the hole. Allow the cordage to slip through the hole until the

overhand knot rests against the pole and the top of the perch. The

tension of the overhand knot against the pole and perch will hold

the perch in position. Spread the noose over the perch, ensuring it

covers the perch and drapes over on both sides. Most birds prefer

to rest on something above ground and will land on the perch. As

soon as the bird lands, the perch will fall, releasing the overhand

8-18

knot and allowing the weight to drop. The noose will tighten

around the bird’s feet, capturing it. If the weight is too heavy, it

will cut off the bird’s feet, allowing it to escape. Another variation

would be to use spring tension such as a tree branch in place of

the weight.

Figure 8-10. Ojibwa Bird Pole

Noosing Wand

8-43. A noose stick or “noosing wand” is useful for capturing

roosting birds or small mammals (Figure 8-11). It requires a

patient operator. This wand is more a weapon than a trap. It

consists of a pole (as long as you can effectively handle) with a

slip noose of wire or stiff cordage at the small end. To catch an

animal, you slip the noose over the neck of a roosting bird and

pull it tight. You can also place it over a den hole and hide in a

nearby blind. When the animal emerges from the den, you jerk

the pole to tighten the noose and thus capture the animal. Carry

a stout club to kill the prey.

Figure 8-11. Noosing Wand

8-19

Treadle Spring Snare

8-44. Use a treadle snare against small game on a trail (Figure

8-12, page 8-21). Dig a shallow hole in the trail. Then drive a

forked stick (fork down) into the ground on each side of the hole

on the same side of the trail. Select two fairly straight sticks that

span the two forks. Position these two sticks so that their ends

engage the forks. Place several sticks over the hole in the trail by

positioning one end over the lower horizontal stick and the other

on the ground on the other side of the hole. Cover the hole with

enough sticks so that the prey must step on at least one of them

to set off the snare. Tie one end of a piece of cordage to a twitch-

up or to a weight suspended over a tree limb. Bend the twitch-up

or raise the suspended weight to determine where you will tie the

trigger. The trigger should be about 5 centimeters (2 inches) long.

Form a noose with the other end of the cordage. Route and spread

the noose over the top of the sticks over the hole. Place the trigger

stick against the horizontal sticks and route the cordage behind

the sticks so that the tension of the power source will hold it in

place. Adjust the bottom horizontal stick so that it will barely

hold against the trigger. As the animal places its foot on a stick

across the hole, the bottom horizontal stick moves down, releasing

the trigger and allowing the noose to catch the animal by the foot.

Because of the disturbance on the trail, an animal will be wary.

You must therefore use channelization. To increase the

effectiveness of this trap, a small bait well may be dug into the

bottom of the hole. Place some bait in the bottom of the hole to

lure the animal to the snare.

Figure 4 Deadfall

8-45. The figure 4 deadfall is a trigger used to drop a weight onto

a prey and crush it (Figure 8-13, page 8-22). The type of weight

used may vary, but it should be heavy enough to kill or

incapacitate the prey immediately. Construct the figure 4 using

three notched sticks. These notches hold the sticks together in a

figure 4 pattern when under tension. Practice making this trigger

beforehand; it requires close tolerances and precise angles in its

construction.

8-20

Figure 8-13. Figure 4 Deadfall

Paiute Deadfall

8-46. The Paiute deadfall is similar to the figure 4 but uses a

piece of cordage and a catch stick (Figure 8-14, page 8-23). It has

the advantage of being easier to set than the figure 4. Tie one end

of a piece of cordage to the lower end of the diagonal stick. Tie the

other end of the cordage to another stick about 5 centimeters

(2 inches) long. This stick is the catch stick. Bring the cord

halfway around the vertical stick with the catch stick at a 90-

degree angle. Place the bait stick with one end against the drop

weight, or a peg driven into the ground, and the other against the

catch stick. When a prey disturbs the bait stick, it falls free,

releasing the catch stick. As the diagonal stick flies up, the weight

falls, crushing the prey. To increase the effectiveness of this trap,

a small bait well may be dug into the bottom of the hole. Place

some bait in the bottom of the hole to lure the animals to the

snare.

8-22

Figure 8-14. Paiute Deadfall

Bow Trap

8-47. A bow trap is one of the deadliest traps (Figure 8-15). It is

dangerous to man as well as animals. To construct this trap, build

a bow and anchor it to the ground with pegs. Adjust the aiming

point as you anchor the bow. Lash a toggle stick to the trigger

stick. Two upright sticks driven into the ground hold the trigger

stick in place at a point where the toggle stick will engage the

pulled bowstring. Place a catch stick between the toggle stick and

a stake driven into the ground. Tie a trip wire or cordage to the

catch stick and route it around stakes and across the game trail

where you tie it off (as in Figure 8-15). When the prey trips the

trip wire, the bow looses an arrow into it. A notch in the bow

serves to help aim the arrow.

Figure 8-15. Bow Trap

8-23

WARNING

This is a lethal trap. Approach it with caution and

from the rear only!

Pig Spear Shaft

8-48. To construct the pig spear shaft, select a stout pole about 2.5

meters (8 feet) long (Figure 8-16). At the smaller end, firmly lash

several small stakes. Lash the large end tightly to a tree along the

game trail. Tie a length of cordage to another tree across the trail.

Tie a sturdy, smooth stick to the other end of the cord. From the

first tree, tie a trip wire or cord low to the ground, stretch it across

the trail, and tie it to a catch stick. Make a slip ring from vines or

other suitable material. Encircle the trip wire and the smooth stick

with the slip ring. Emplace one end of another smooth stick within

the slip ring and its other end against the second tree. Pull the

smaller end of the spear shaft across the trail and position it

between the short cord and the smooth stick. As the animal trips

the trip wire, the catch stick pulls the slip ring off the smooth

sticks, releasing the spear shaft that springs across the trail and

impales the prey against the tree.

Figure 8-16. Pig Spear Shaft

8-24

WARNING

This is a lethal trap. Approach it with caution and

from the rear only!

Bottle Trap

8-49. A bottle trap is a simple trap for mice and voles (Figure 8-17).

Dig a hole 30 to 45 centimeters (12 to 18 inches) deep that is wider

at the bottom than at the top. Make the top of the hole as small as

possible. Place a piece of bark or wood over the hole with small

stones under it to hold it up 2.5 to 5 centimeters (1 to 2 inches) off

the ground. Mice or voles will hide under the cover to escape

danger and fall into the hole. They cannot climb out because of the

wall’s backward slope. Use caution when checking this trap; it is an

excellent hiding place for snakes.

Figure 8-17. Bottle Trap

KILLING DEVICES

8-50. There are several killing devices that you can construct to

help you obtain small game to help you survive. The rabbit stick,

the spear, the bow and arrow, and the sling are such devices.

8-25

RABBIT STICK

8-51. One of the simplest and most effective killing devices is a

stout stick as long as your arm, from fingertip to shoulder, called

a “rabbit stick.” You can throw it either overhand or sidearm and

with considerable force. It is best thrown so that it flies sideways,

increasing the chance of hitting the target. It is very effective

against small game that stops and freezes as a defense.

SPEAR

8-52. You can make a spear to kill small game and to fish. Jab

with the spear—do not throw it. Paragraph 8-67, page 8-32,

explains spearfishing.

BOW AND ARROW

8-53. A good bow is the result of many hours of work. You can

construct a suitable short-term bow fairly easily. When it loses its

spring or breaks, you can replace it. Select a hardwood stick about

1 meter (3 feet) long that is free of knots or limbs. Carefully

scrape the large end down until it has the same pull as the small

end. Careful examination will show the natural curve of the stick.

Always scrape from the side that faces you, or the bow will break

the first time you pull it. Dead, dry wood is preferable to green

wood. To increase the pull, lash a second bow to the first, front to

front, forming an “X” when viewed from the side. Attach the tips

of the bows with cordage and only use a bowstring on one bow.

8-54. Select arrows from the straightest dry sticks available. The

arrows should be about half as long as the bow. Scrape each shaft

smooth all around. You will probably have to straighten the shaft.

You can bend an arrow straight by heating the shaft over hot

coals. Do not allow the shaft to scorch or burn. Hold the shaft

straight until it cools.

8-55. You can make arrowheads from bone, glass, metal, or pieces

of rock. You can also sharpen and fire-harden the end of the shaft.

Fire hardening is actually a misnomer. To fire-harden wood, hold

it over hot coals or plunge it deep under the coals in the ashes,

being careful not to burn or scorch the wood. The purpose of fire

hardening is to harden the wood by drying the moisture out of it.

8-56. You must notch the ends of the arrows for the bowstring.

Cut or file the notch; do not split it. Fletching (adding feathers to

8-26

the notched end of an arrow) improves the arrow’s flight

characteristics. Fletching is recommended but not necessary on a

field-expedient arrow.

SLING

8-57. You can make a sling by tying two pieces of cordage, each

about 60 centimeters (24 inches) long, at opposite ends of a palm-

sized piece of leather or cloth. Place a rock in the cloth and wrap

one cord around your middle finger and hold in your palm. Hold

the other cord between your forefinger and thumb. To throw the

rock, spin the sling several times in a circle and release the cord

between your thumb and forefinger. Practice to gain proficiency.

The sling is very effective against small game.

FISHING DEVICES

8-58. You can make your own fishhooks, nets, and traps. The

paragraphs below discuss several methods to obtain fish.

IMPROVISED FISHHOOKS

8-59. You can make field-expedient fishhooks from pins, needles,

wire, small nails, or any piece of metal. You can also use wood,

bone, coconut shell, thorns, flint, seashell, or tortoise shell. You

can also make fishhooks from any combination of these items

(Figure 8-18).

Figure 8-18. Improvised Fishhooks

8-27

8-60. To make a wooden hook, cut a piece of hardwood about 2.5

centimeters (1 inch) long and about 6 millimeters (1/4 inch) in

diameter to form the shank. Cut a notch in one end in which to place

the point. Place the point (piece of bone, wire, nail) in the notch. Hold

the point in the notch and tie securely so that it does not move out of

position. This is a fairly large hook. To make smaller hooks, use

smaller material.

8-61. A gorge or skewer is a small shaft of wood, bone, metal, or

other material. It is sharp on both ends and notched in the middle

where you tie cordage. Bait the gorge by placing a piece of bait on

it lengthwise. When the fish swallows the bait, it also swallows

the gorge. If you are tending the fishing line when the fish bites,

do not attempt to pull on the line to set the hook as you would

with a conventional hook. Allow the fish to swallow the bait to get

the gorge as far down its throat before the gorge sets itself.

STAKEOUT

8-62. A stakeout is a fishing device you can use in a hostile

environment (Figure 8-19). To construct a stakeout, drive two

supple saplings into the bottom of the lake, pond, or stream with

their tops just below the water surface. Tie a cord between them

just slightly below the surface. Tie two short cords with hooks or

gorges to this cord, ensuring that they cannot wrap around the

poles or each other. They should also not slip along the long cord.

Bait the hooks or gorges.

Figure 8-19. Stakeout

8-28

GILL NET

8-63. If a gill net is not available, you can make one using

parachute suspension line or similar material

(Figure

8-20).

Remove the core lines from the suspension line and tie the casing

between two trees. Attach several core lines to the casing by

doubling them over and tying them with prusik knots or girth

hitches. These lines should be six times the desired depth of the

net (for example, a 6-foot [180-centimeter] piece of string girth-

hitched over the casing will give you two 3-foot [90-centimeter]

pieces, which after completing the net, will provide a 1-foot [30-

centimeter] deep net). The length of the desired net and the size

of the mesh determine the number of core lines used and the

space between them. The recommended size of the spaces in the

net mesh is about 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) square. Starting at one

end of the casing, tie the second and the third core lines together

using an overhand knot. Then tie the fourth and fifth, sixth and

seventh, and so on, until you reach the last core line. You should

now have all core lines tied in pairs with a single core line

hanging at each end. Start the second row with the first core line,

tie it to the second, the third to the fourth, and so on.

Figure 8-20. Making a Gill Net

8-29

8-64. To keep the rows even and to regulate the size of the mesh,

tie a guideline to the trees. Position the guideline on the opposite

side of the net you are working on. Move the guideline down after

completing each row. The lines will always hang in pairs and you

always tie a cord from one pair to a cord from an adjoining pair.

Continue tying rows until the net is the desired width. Thread a

suspension line casing along the bottom of the net to strengthen

it. Use the gill net as shown in Figure 8-21. Angling the gill net

will help to reduce the amount of debris that may accumulate in

the net. Be sure to check it frequently.

Figure 8-21. Setting a Gill Net in the Stream

FISH TRAPS

8-65. You may trap fish using several methods (Figure 8-22, page

8-31). Fish baskets are one method. You construct them by lashing

several sticks together with vines into a funnel shape. You close

the top, leaving a hole large enough for the fish to swim through.

8-30

Figure 8-22. Various Types of Fish Traps

8-66. You can also use traps to catch saltwater fish, as schools

regularly approach the shore with the incoming tide and often

move parallel to the shore. Pick a location at high tide and build

the trap at low tide. On rocky shores, use natural rock pools.

On coral islands, use natural pools on the surface of reefs by

blocking the openings as the tide recedes. On sandy shores, use

sandbars and the ditches they enclose. Build the trap as a low

stone wall extending outward into the water and forming an angle

with the shore.

8-31

SPEARFISHING

8-67. If you are near shallow water (about waist deep) where the

fish are large and plentiful, you can spear them. To make a spear,

cut a long, straight sapling (Figure 8-23). Sharpen the end to a

point or attach a knife, jagged piece of bone, or sharpened metal.

You can also make a spear by splitting the shaft a few inches

down from the end and inserting a piece of wood to act as a

spreader. You then sharpen the two separated halves to points.

To spear fish, find an area where fish either gather or where

there is a fish run. Place the spear point into the water and slowly

move it toward the fish. Then, with a sudden push, impale the

fish on the stream bottom. Do not try to lift the fish with the

spear, as it with probably slip off and you will lose it; hold the

spear with one hand and grab and hold the fish with the other. Do

not throw the spear, especially if the point is a knife. You cannot

afford to lose a knife in a survival situation. Be alert to the

problems caused by light refraction when looking at objects in the

water. You must aim lower than the object, usually at the bottom

of the fish, to hit your mark.

Figure 8-23. Types of Spear Points

8-32

CHOP FISHING

8-68. At night, in an area with high fish density, you can use a

light to attract fish. Then, armed with a machete or similar

weapon, you can gather fish using the back side of the blade to

strike them. Do not use the sharp side as you will cut them in two

pieces and end up losing some of the fish.

FISH POISON

8-69. Another way to catch fish is by using poison. Poison works

quickly. It allows you to remain concealed while it takes effect. It

also enables you to catch several fish at one time. When using fish

poison, be sure to gather all of the affected fish, because many

dead fish floating downstream could arouse suspicion. Some

plants that grow in warm regions of the world contain rotenone, a

substance that stuns or kills cold-blooded animals but does not

harm persons who eat the animals. The best place to use

rotenone, or rotenone-producing plants, is in ponds or the

headwaters of small streams containing fish. Rotenone works

quickly on fish in water 21 degrees C (70 degrees F) or above.

The fish rise helplessly to the surface. It works slowly in water 10

to 21 degrees C (50 to 70 degrees F) and is ineffective in water

below 10 degrees C (50 degrees F). The following plants, used as

indicated, will stun or kill fish:

• Anamirta cocculus (Figure 8-24, page 8-34). This woody

vine grows in southern Asia and on islands of the South

Pacific. Crush the bean-shaped seeds and throw them in

the water.

• Croton tiglium (Figure 8-24, page 8-34). This shrub or

small tree grows in waste areas on islands of the South

Pacific. It bears seeds in three angled capsules. Crush the

seeds and throw them into the water.

• Barringtonia (Figure 8-24, page 8-34). These large trees

grow near the sea in Malaya and parts of Polynesia. They

bear a fleshy one-seeded fruit. Crush the seeds and bark

and throw into the water.

• Derris eliptica (Figure 8-24, page 8-34). This large genus of

tropical shrubs and woody vines is the main source of

commercially produced rotenone. Grind the roots into a

powder and mix with water. Throw a large quantity of the

mixture into the water.

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FM 3-05.70 Field Manual Survival (17 May 2002) - page 5