FM 3-05.70 Field Manual Survival (17 May 2002)

correctly. Then open the boil using a sterile knife, wire, needle, or

similar item. Thoroughly clean out the pus using soap and water.

Cover the boil site, checking it periodically to ensure no further

infection develops.

Fungal Infections

4-100. Keep the skin clean and dry, and expose the infected area

to as much sunlight as possible. Do not scratch the affected

area. During the Southeast Asian conflict, soldiers used

antifungal powders, lye soap, chlorine bleach, alcohol, vinegar,

concentrated salt water, and iodine to treat fungal infections with

varying degrees of success. As with any “unorthodox” method of

treatment, use these with caution.

Rashes

4-101. To treat a skin rash effectively, first determine what is

causing it. This determination may be difficult even in the best of

situations. Observe the following rules to treat rashes:

• If it is moist, keep it dry.

• If it is dry, keep it moist.

• Do not scratch it.

4-102. Use a compress of vinegar or tannic acid derived from tea

or from boiling acorns or the bark of a hardwood tree to dry

weeping rashes. Keep dry rashes moist by rubbing a small

amount of rendered animal fat or grease on the affected area.

4-103. Remember, treat rashes as open wounds; clean and dress

them daily. There are many substances available to survivors in

the wild or in captivity for use as antiseptics to treat wounds.

Follow the recommended guidance below:

• Iodine tablets. Use 5 to 15 tablets in a liter of water to

produce a good rinse for wounds during healing.

• Garlic. Rub it on a wound or boil it to extract the oils and

use the water to rinse the affected area.

• Salt water. Use 2 to 3 tablespoons per liter of water to kill

bacteria.

• Bee honey. Use it straight or dissolved in water.

4-30

CAUTION

Unpasteurized honey has been known to contain

botulinum, which affects young children mostly.

Discontinue treatment if vomiting, double vision, fever, or

muscular paralysis occur.

• Sphagnum moss. Found in boggy areas worldwide, it is a

natural source of iodine. Use as a dressing.

• Sugar. Place directly on wound and remove thoroughly

when it turns into a glazed and runny substance. Then

reapply.

• Syrup. In extreme circumstances, some of the same

benefits of honey and sugar can be realized with any high-

sugar-content item.

NOTE: Again, use noncommercially prepared materials with

caution.

BURNS

4-104. The following field treatment for burns relieves the pain

somewhat, seems to help speed healing, and offers some

protection against infection:

• First, stop the burning process. Put out the fire by removing

clothing, dousing with water or sand, or by rolling on the

ground. Cool the burning skin with ice or water. For burns

caused by white phosphorous, pick out the white

phosphorous with tweezers; do not douse with water.

• Soak dressings or clean rags for 10 minutes in a boiling

tannic acid solution

(obtained from tea, inner bark of

hardwood trees, or acorns boiled in water).

• Cool the dressings or clean rags and apply over burns.

Sugar and honey also work for burns with honey being

especially effective at promoting new skin growth and

stopping infections. Use both as you would in an open

wound above.

• Treat as an open wound.

• Replace fluid loss. Fluid replacement can be achieved through

oral (preferred) and intravenous routes (when resources are

4-31

available). One alternate method through which rehydration

can be achieved is through the rectal route. Fluids do not

need to be sterile, only purified. A person can effectively

absorb approximately 1 to 1.5 liters per hour by using a tube

to deliver fluids into the rectal vault.

• Maintain airway.

• Treat for shock.

• Consider using morphine, unless the burns are near the

face.

ENVIRONMENTAL INJURIES

4-105. Heatstroke, hypothermia, diarrhea, and intestinal parasites

are environmental injuries you could face in a survival situation.

Read and follow the guidance provided below.

HEATSTROKE

4-106. The breakdown of the body’s heat regulatory system (body

temperature more than 40.5 degrees C [105 degrees F]) causes a

heatstroke. Other heat injuries, such as cramps or dehydration,

do not always precede a heatstroke. Signs and symptoms of

heatstroke are—

• Swollen, beet-red face.

• Reddened whites of eyes.

• Victim not sweating.

• Unconsciousness or delirium, which can cause pallor, a

bluish color to lips and nail beds (cyanosis), and cool skin.

NOTE: By this time, the victim is in severe shock. Cool the victim

as rapidly as possible. Cool him by dipping him in a cool stream.

If one is not available, douse the victim with urine, water, or at

the very least, apply cool wet compresses to all the joints,

especially the neck, armpits, and crotch. Be sure to wet the

victim’s head. Heat loss through the scalp is great. Administer

IVs and provide drinking fluids. You may fan the individual.

4-107. You can expect the following symptoms during cooling:

• Vomiting.

• Diarrhea.

4-32

• Struggling.

• Shivering.

• Shouting.

• Prolonged unconsciousness.

• Rebound heatstroke within 48 hours.

• Cardiac arrest; be ready to perform CPR.

NOTE: Treat for dehydration with lightly salted water.

CHILBLAINS

4-108. Frostnip begins as firm, cold and white or gray areas on the

face, ears, and extremities that can blister or peel just like sunburn

as late as 2 to 3 days after the injury. Frostnip, or chilblains as it is

sometimes called, is the result of tissue exposure to freezing

temperatures and is the beginning of frostbite. The water in and

around the cells freezes, rupturing cell walls and thus damaging

the tissue. Warming the affected area with hands or a warm object

treats this injury. Wind chill plays a factor in this injury;

preventative measures include layers of dry clothing and protection

against wetness and wind.

TRENCH FOOT

4-109. Immersion or trench foot results from many hours or days

of exposure to wet or damp conditions at a temperature just above

freezing. The nerves and muscles sustain the main damage, but

gangrene can occur. In extreme cases the flesh dies and it may

become necessary to have the foot or leg amputated. The best

prevention is to keep your feet dry. Carry extra socks with you in

a waterproof packet. Dry wet socks against your body. Wash your

feet daily and put on dry socks.

FROSTBITE

4-110. This injury results from frozen tissues. Frostbite extends

to a depth below the skin. The tissues become solid and

immovable. Your feet, hands, and exposed facial areas are

particularly vulnerable to frostbite.

4-111. When with others, prevent frostbite by using the buddy

system. Check your buddy’s face often and make sure that he

4-33

checks yours. If you are alone, periodically cover your nose and

lower part of your face with your mittens.

4-112. Do not try to thaw the affected areas by placing them close

to an open flame. Frostbitten tissue may be immersed in 37 to 42

degrees C (99 to 109 degrees F) water until thawed. (Water

temperature can be determined with the inside wrist or baby

formula method.) Dry the part and place it next to your skin to

warm it at body temperature.

HYPOTHERMIA

4-113. It is defined as the body’s failure to maintain an inner core

temperature of 36 degrees C (97 degrees F). Exposure to cool or

cold temperature over a short or long time can cause

hypothermia. Dehydration and lack of food and rest predispose

the survivor to hypothermia.

4-114. Immediate treatment is the key. Move the victim to the best

shelter possible away from the wind, rain, and cold. Remove all wet

clothes and get the victim into dry clothing. Replace lost fluids with

warm fluids, and warm him in a sleeping bag using two people (if

possible) providing skin-to-skin contact. If the victim is unable to

drink warm fluids, rectal rehydration may be used.

DIARRHEA

4-115. A common, debilitating ailment caused by changing water

and food, drinking contaminated water, eating spoiled food,

becoming fatigued, and using dirty dishes. You can avoid most of

these causes by practicing preventive medicine. However, if you

get diarrhea and do not have antidiarrheal medicine, one of the

following treatments may be effective:

• Limit your intake of fluids for 24 hours.

• Drink one cup of a strong tea solution every 2 hours until

the diarrhea slows or stops. The tannic acid in the tea

helps to control the diarrhea. Boil the inner bark of a

hardwood tree for 2 hours or more to release the tannic

acid.

• Make a solution of one handful of ground chalk, charcoal,

or dried bones and treated water. If you have some apple

pomace or the rinds of citrus fruit, add an equal portion to

the mixture to make it more effective. Take 2 tablespoons

4-34

of the solution every 2 hours until the diarrhea slows or

stops.

INTESTINAL PARASITES

4-116. You can usually avoid worm infestations and other

intestinal parasites if you take preventive measures. For

example, never go barefoot. The most effective way to prevent

intestinal parasites is to avoid uncooked meat, never eat raw

vegetables contaminated by raw sewage, and try not to use

human waste as a fertilizer. However, should you become infested

and lack proper medicine, you can use home remedies. Keep in

mind that these home remedies work on the principle of changing

the environment of the gastrointestinal tract. The following are

home remedies you could use:

• Salt water. Dissolve 4 tablespoons of salt in 1 liter of water

and drink. Do not repeat this treatment.

• Tobacco. Eat

1 to

1 1/2 cigarettes or approximately

teaspoon (pinch) of smokeless tobacco. The nicotine in the

tobacco will kill or stun the worms long enough for your

system to pass them. If the infestation is severe, repeat the

treatment in 24 to 48 hours, but no sooner.

• Kerosene. Drink 2 tablespoons of kerosene, but no more.

If necessary, you can repeat this treatment in 24 to 48

hours. Be careful not to inhale the fumes. They may cause

lung irritation.

NOTE: Tobacco and kerosene treatment techniques are very

dangerous, be careful.

• Hot peppers. Peppers are effective only if they are a steady

part of your diet. You can eat them raw or put them in

soups or rice and meat dishes. They create an environment

that is prohibitive to parasitic attachment.

• Garlic. Chop or crush 4 cloves, mix with 1 glass of liquid,

and drink daily for 3 weeks.

HERBAL MEDICINES

4-117. Our modern wonder drugs, laboratories, and equipment

have obscured more primitive types of medicine involving

determination, common sense, and a few simple treatments.

However, in many areas of the world the people still depend on

4-35

local “witch doctors” or healers to cure their ailments. Many of the

herbs (plants) and treatments they use are as effective as the

most modern medications available. In fact, many modern

medications come from refined herbs.

WARNING

Use herbal medicines with extreme care, and only

when you lack or have limited medical supplies.

Some herbal medicines are dangerous and may

cause further damage or even death. Chapter 9

explains some basic herbal medicine treatments.

4-36

Chapter 5

Shelters

A shelter can protect you from the sun, insects,

wind, rain, snow, hot or cold temperatures, and

enemy observation. It can give you a feeling of well-

being and help you maintain your will to survive.

In some areas, your need for shelter may take

precedence over your need for food and possibly

even your need for water. For example, prolonged

exposure to cold can cause excessive fatigue and

weakness

(exhaustion). An exhausted person

may develop a “passive” outlook, thereby losing

the will to survive.

Seek natural shelters or alter them to meet your

needs, therefore, saving energy. A common error

in making a shelter is to make it too large. A

shelter must be large enough to protect you and

small enough to contain your body heat,

especially in cold climates.

PRIMARY SHELTER—UNIFORM

5-1. Your primary shelter in a survival situation will be your

uniform. This point is true regardless of whether you are in a hot,

cold, tropical, desert, or arctic situation. For your uniform to

protect you, it must be in as good of a condition as possible and be

worn properly. We use the term COLDER which is addressed in

Chapter 15 to remind us of what to do.

SHELTER SITE SELECTION

5-2. When you are in a survival situation and realize that

shelter is a high priority, start looking for shelter as soon as

possible. As you do so, remember what you will need at the site.

Two requisites for shelter are that it must—

• Contain material to make the type of shelter you need.

5-1

• Be large enough and level enough for you to lie down

comfortably.

5-3. You should focus on your tactical situation and your safety

when considering these requisites. You must also consider

whether the site—

• Provides concealment from enemy observation.

• Has camouflaged escape routes.

• Is suitable for signaling, if necessary.

• Provides protection against wild animals and rocks and

dead trees that might fall.

• Is free from insects, reptiles, and poisonous plants.

5-4. You must remember the problems that could arise in your

environment. For instance, avoid—

• Flash flood areas in foothills.

• Avalanche or rockslide areas in mountainous terrain.

• Sites near bodies of water that are below the high-water

mark.

5-5. In some areas, the season of the year has a strong bearing

on the site you select. Ideal sites for a shelter differ in winter and

summer. During cold winter months you will want a site that will

protect you from the cold and wind, but will have a source of fuel

and water. During summer months in the same area you will

want a source of water, but you will also want the site to be

almost insect free.

5-6. When you are considering shelter site selection, remember

the word BLISS and the following guidelines:

• B-Blend in with the surroundings.

• L-Low silhouette.

• I-Irregular shape.

• S-Small.

• S-Secluded location.

5-2

TYPES OF SHELTERS

5-7. When looking for a shelter site, keep in mind the type

of shelter you need. However, you must also consider the

questions below:

• How much time and effort will you need to build the

shelter?

• Will the shelter adequately protect you from the elements

(sun, wind, rain, snow)?

• Do you have the tools to build it? If not, can you make

improvised tools?

• Do you have the type and amount of materials needed to

build it?

5-8. To answer these questions, you need to know how to

make various types of shelters and what materials you need to

make them.

PONCHO LEAN-TO

5-9. It takes only a short time and minimal equipment to build

this lean-to (Figure 5-1). You need a poncho, 2 to 3 meters (7 to 10

feet) of rope or parachute suspension line, three stakes about 30

centimeters (1 foot) long, and two trees or two poles 2 to 3 meters

(7 to 10 feet) apart. Before selecting the trees you will use or the

location of your poles, check the wind direction. Ensure that the

back of your lean-to will be into the wind.

Figure 5-1. Poncho Lean-to

5-3

5-10. To make the lean-to, you should—

• Tie off the hood of the poncho. Pull the drawstring tight,

roll the hood longways, fold it into thirds, and tie it off with

the drawstring.

• Cut the rope in half. On one long side of the poncho, tie

half of the rope to the corner grommet. Tie the other half to

the other corner grommet.

• Attach a drip stick (about a 10-centimeter [4-inch] stick) to

each rope about 2.5 centimeters (about 1 inch) from the

grommet. These drip sticks will keep rainwater from

running down the ropes into the lean-to. Tying strings

(about 10 centimeters [4 inches] long) to each grommet

along the poncho’s top edge will allow the water to run to

and down the line without dripping into the shelter.

• Tie the ropes about waist high on the trees. Use a round

turn and two half hitches with a quick-release knot.

• Spread the poncho and anchor it to the ground, putting

sharpened sticks through the grommets and into the

ground.

5-11. If you plan to use the lean-to for more than one night, or

you expect rain, make a center support for the lean-to. Make this

support with a line. Attach one end of the line to the poncho hood

and the other end to an overhanging branch. Make sure there is

no slack in the line.

5-12. Another method is to place a stick upright under the center

of the lean-to. However, this method will restrict your space and

movements in the shelter.

5-13. For additional protection from wind and rain, place some

brush, your rucksack, or other equipment at the sides of the lean-to.

5-14. To reduce heat loss to the ground, place some type of

insulating material, such as leaves or pine needles, inside your

lean-to.

NOTE: When at rest, you lose as much as 80 percent of your body

heat to the ground.

5-15. To increase your security from enemy observation, lower

the lean-to’s silhouette by making two changes. First, secure the

5-4

support lines to the trees at knee height (not at waist height)

using two knee-high sticks in the two center grommets (sides of

lean-to). Second, angle the poncho to the ground, securing it with

sharpened sticks, as above.

PONCHO TENT

5-16. This tent (Figure 5-2) provides a low silhouette. It also

protects you from the elements on two sides. It has, however, less

usable space and observation area than a lean-to, decreasing your

reaction time to enemy detection. To make this tent, you need a

poncho, two 1.5- to 2.5-meter (5- to 8-foot) ropes, six sharpened

sticks about 30 centimeters (1 foot) long, and two trees 2 to 3

meters (7 to 10 feet) apart.

Figure 5-2. Poncho Tent Using Overhanging Branch

5-17. To make the tent, you should—

• Tie off the poncho hood in the same way as the poncho

lean-to.

• Tie a 1.5- to 2.5-meter (5- to 8-foot) rope to the center

grommet on each side of the poncho.

• Tie the other ends of these ropes at about knee height to

two trees 2 to 3 meters (7 to 10 feet) apart and stretch the

poncho tight.

• Draw one side of the poncho tight and secure it to the

ground pushing sharpened sticks through the grommets.

• Follow the same procedure on the other side.

5-5

5-18. If you need a center support, use the same methods as for

the poncho lean-to. Another center support is an A-frame set

outside but over the center of the tent (Figure 5-3). Use two 90- to

120-centimeter-long (12- to 16-foot-long) sticks, one with a forked

end, to form the A-frame. Tie the hood’s drawstring to the A-

frame to support the center of the tent.

Figure 5-3. Poncho Tent With A-Frame

THREE-POLE PARACHUTE TEPEE

5-19. If you have a parachute and three poles and the tactical

situation allows, make a parachute tepee. It is easy and takes

very little time to make this tepee. It provides protection from the

elements and can act as a signaling device by enhancing a small

amount of light from a fire or candle. It is large enough to hold

several people and their equipment and to allow sleeping,

cooking, and storing firewood.

5-20. You can make this tepee (Figure 5-4, page 5-7) using parts

of or a whole personnel main or reserve parachute canopy. If

using a standard personnel parachute, you need three poles 3.5 to

4.5 meters (12 to 15 feet) long and about 5 centimeters (2 inches)

in diameter.

5-6

5-21. To make this tepee, you should—

•

Lay the poles on the ground and lash them together at one

end.

•

Stand the framework up and spread the poles to form a

tripod.

•

For more support, place additional poles against the tripod.

Five or six additional poles work best, but do not lash them

to the tripod.

•

Determine the wind direction and locate the entrance 90

degrees or more from the mean wind direction.

•

Lay out the parachute on the “backside” of the tripod and

locate the bridle loop (nylon web loop) at the top (apex) of

the canopy.

•

Place the bridle loop over the top of a freestanding pole.

Then place the pole back up against the tripod so that the

canopy’s apex is at the same height as the lashing on the

three poles.

•

Wrap the canopy around one side of the tripod. The canopy

should be of double thickness, as you are wrapping an

entire parachute. You need only wrap half of the tripod, as

the remainder of the canopy will encircle the tripod in the

opposite direction.

•

Construct the entrance by wrapping the folded edges of the

canopy around two free-standing poles. You can then place

the poles side by side to close the tepee’s entrance.

•

Place all extra canopy underneath the tepee poles and

inside to create a floor for the shelter.

•

Leave a 30- to 50-centimeter (12- to 20-inch) opening at the

top for ventilation if you intend to have a fire inside the

tepee.

5-22. You need a 14-gore section (normally) of canopy, stakes, a

stout center pole, and an inner core and needle to construct this

tepee (Figure 5-5, page 5-9). You cut the suspension lines except

for 40- to 45-centimeter (16- to 18-inch) lengths at the canopy’s

lower lateral band.

5-8

Figure 5-5. One-Pole Parachute Tepee

5-23. To make this tepee, you should—

• Select a shelter site and scribe a circle about 4 meters

(13 feet) in diameter on the ground.

• Stake the parachute material to the ground using the lines

remaining at the lower lateral band.

• After deciding where to place the shelter door, emplace a

stake and tie the first line (from the lower lateral band)

securely to it.

• Stretch the parachute material taut to the next line,

emplace a stake on the scribed line, and tie the line to it.

• Continue the staking process until you have tied all the

lines.

• Loosely attach the top of the parachute material to the

center pole with a suspension line you previously cut and,

through trial and error, determine the point at which the

parachute material will be pulled tight once the center pole

is upright.

• Securely attach the material to the pole.

• Using a suspension line (or inner core), sew the end gores

together leaving 1 to 1.2 meters (3 to 4 feet) for a door.

5-9

NO-POLE PARACHUTE TEPEE

5-24. Except for the center pole, you use the same materials for a

no-pole parachute tepee

(Figure

5-6), as for the one-pole

parachute tepee.

5-25. To make this tepee, you should—

• Tie a line to the top of parachute material with a

previously cut suspension line.

• Throw the line over a tree limb, and tie it to the tree trunk.

• Starting at the opposite side from the door, emplace a

stake on the scribed 3.5- to 4.3-meter (12- to 14-foot) circle.

• Tie the first line on the lower lateral band.

• Continue emplacing the stakes and tying the lines to them.

5-26. After staking down the material, unfasten the line tied to

the tree trunk, tighten the tepee material by pulling on this line,

and tie it securely to the tree trunk.

Figure 5-6. No-Pole Parachute Tepee

ONE-MAN SHELTER

5-27. A one-man shelter (Figure 5-7, page 5-11) you can easily

make using a parachute requires a tree and three poles. One pole

should be about 4.5 meters (15 feet) long and the other two about

3 meters (10 feet) long.

5-10

Figure 5-7. One-Man Shelter

5-28. To make this shelter, you should—

• Secure the 4.5-meter (15-foot) pole to the tree at about

waist height.

• Lay the two 3-meter (10-foot) poles on the ground on either

side of and in the same direction as the 4.5-meter (15-foot)

pole.

• Lay the folded canopy over the 4.5-meter (15-foot) pole so

that about the same amount of material hangs on both

sides.

• Tuck the excess material under the 3-meter (10-foot) poles

and spread it on the ground inside to serve as a floor.

• Stake down or put a spreader between the two 3-meter (10-

foot) poles at the shelter’s entrance so they will not slide

inward.

• Use any excess material to cover the entrance.

5-29. The parachute cloth makes this shelter wind-resistant, and

the shelter is small enough that it is easily warmed. A candle,

used carefully, can keep the inside temperature comfortable.

However, this shelter is unsatisfactory when snow is falling, as

even a light snowfall will cave it in.

5-11

PARACHUTE HAMMOCK

5-30. You can make a hammock using six to eight gores of

parachute canopy and two trees about 4.5 meters (15 feet) apart

(Figure 5-8, page 5-13).

FIELD-EXPEDIENT LEAN-TO

5-31. If you are in a wooded area and have enough natural

materials, you can make a field-expedient lean-to (Figure 5-9,

page 5-14) without the aid of tools or with only a knife. It takes

longer to make this type of shelter than it does to make other

types, but it will protect you from the elements.

5-32. You will need two trees (or upright poles) about 2 meters (7

feet) apart; one pole about

2 meters

(7 feet) long and

2.5

centimeters (1 inch) in diameter; five to eight poles about

meters (10 feet) long and 2.5 centimeters (1 inch) in diameter for

beams; cord or vines for securing the horizontal support to the

trees; and other poles, saplings, or vines to crisscross the beams.

5-33. To make this lean-to, you should—

• Tie the 2-meter (7-foot) pole to the two trees at waist to

chest height. This is the horizontal support. If a standing

tree is not available, construct a bipod using Y-shaped

sticks or two tripods.

• Place one end of the beams (3-meter [10-foot] poles) on one

side of the horizontal support. As with all lean-to type

shelters, be sure to place the lean-to’s backside into the

wind.

• Crisscross saplings or vines on the beams.

• Cover the framework with brush, leaves, pine needles, or

grass, starting at the bottom and working your way up like

shingling.

• Place straw, leaves, pine needles, or grass inside the

shelter for bedding.

5-12

Figure 5-9. Field-Expedient Lean-to and Fire Reflector

5-34. In cold weather, add to your lean-to’s comfort by building a

fire reflector wall (Figure 5-9). Drive four 1.5-meter-long (5-foot-

long) stakes into the ground to support the wall. Stack green logs

on top of one another between the support stakes. Form two rows

of stacked logs to create an inner space within the wall that you

can fill with dirt. This action not only strengthens the wall but

makes it more heat reflective. Bind the top of the support stakes

so that the green logs and dirt will stay in place.

5-35. With just a little more effort you can have a drying rack.

Cut a few 2-centimeter-diameter (3/4-inch-diameter) poles long

enough to span the distance between the lean-to’s horizontal

support and the top of the fire reflector wall. Lay one end of the

poles on the lean-to support and the other end on top of the

reflector wall. Place and tie smaller sticks across these poles. You

now have a place to dry clothes, meat, or fish.

SWAMP BED

5-36. In a marsh or swamp, or any area with standing water or

continually wet ground, the swamp bed (Figure 5-10, page 5-15)

keeps you out of the water. When selecting such a site, consider

the weather, wind, tides, and available materials.

5-14

Figure 5-10. Swamp Bed

5-37. To make a swamp bed, you should—

• Look for four trees clustered in a rectangle, or cut four

poles (bamboo is ideal) and drive them firmly into the

ground so they form a rectangle. They should be far

enough apart and strong enough to support your height

and weight, to include equipment.

• Cut two poles that span the width of the rectangle. They,

too, must be strong enough to support your weight.

• Secure these two poles to the trees (or poles). Be sure they

are high enough above the ground or water to allow for

tides and high water.

• Cut additional poles that span the rectangle’s length. Lay

them across the two side poles and secure them.

• Cover the top of the bed frame with broad leaves or grass

to form a soft sleeping surface.

• Build a fire pad by laying clay, silt, or mud on one corner of

the swamp bed and allow it to dry.

5-38. Another shelter designed to get you above and out of the

water or wet ground uses the same rectangular configuration as

the swamp bed. You simply lay sticks and branches lengthwise on

the inside of the trees (or poles) until there is enough material to

raise the sleeping surface above the water level.

5-15

NATURAL SHELTERS

5-39. Do not overlook natural formations that provide shelter.

Examples are caves, rocky crevices, clumps of bushes, small

depressions, large rocks on leeward sides of hills, large trees with

low-hanging limbs, and fallen trees with thick branches.

However, when selecting a natural formation—

• Stay away from low ground such as ravines, narrow

valleys, or creek beds. Low areas collect the heavy cold air

at night and are therefore colder than the surrounding

high ground. Thick, brushy, low ground also harbors more

insects.

• Check for poisonous snakes, ticks, mites, scorpions, and

stinging ants.

• Look for loose rocks, dead limbs, coconuts, or other natural

growth than could fall on your shelter.

DEBRIS HUT

5-40. For warmth and ease of construction, the debris hut (Figure

5-11, page 5-17) is one of the best. When shelter is essential to

survival, build this shelter.

5-41. To make a debris hut, you should—

• Build it by making a tripod with two short stakes and a

long ridgepole or by placing one end of a long ridgepole on

top of a sturdy base.

• Secure the ridgepole

(pole running the length of the

shelter) using the tripod method or by anchoring it to a

tree at about waist height.

• Prop large sticks along both sides of the ridgepole to create

a wedge-shaped ribbing effect. Ensure the ribbing is wide

enough to accommodate your body and steep enough to

shed moisture.

• Place finer sticks and brush crosswise on the ribbing.

These form a latticework that will keep the insulating

material (grass, pine needles, leaves) from falling through

the ribbing into the sleeping area.

• Add light, dry, if possible, soft debris over the ribbing until

the insulating material is at least 1 meter (3 feet) thick—

the thicker the better.

5-16

Figure 5-11. Debris Hut

• Place a 30-centimeter (1-foot) layer of insulating material

inside the shelter.

• At the entrance, pile insulating material that you can drag

to you once inside the shelter to close the entrance or build

a door.

• As a final step in constructing this shelter, add shingling

material or branches on top of the debris layer to prevent

the insulating material from blowing away in a storm.

TREE-PIT SNOW SHELTER

5-42. If you are in a cold, snow-covered area where evergreen

trees grow and you have a digging tool, you can make a tree-pit

shelter (Figure 5-12, page 5-18).

5-43. To make this shelter, you should—

• Find a tree with bushy branches that provides overhead

cover.

5-17

• Dig out the snow around the tree trunk until you reach the

depth and diameter you desire, or until you reach the

ground.

• Pack the snow around the top and the inside of the hole to

provide support.

• Find and cut other evergreen boughs. Place them over the

top of the pit to give you additional overhead cover. Place

evergreen boughs in the bottom of the pit for insulation.

5-44. See Chapter 15 for other arctic or cold weather shelters.

Figure 5-12. Tree-Pit Snow Shelter

BEACH SHADE SHELTER

5-45. The beach shade shelter (Figure 5-13, page 5-19) protects

you from the sun, wind, rain, and heat. It is easy to make using

natural materials.

5-46. To make this shelter, you should—

• Find and collect driftwood or other natural material to use

as support beams and as a digging tool.

• Select a site that is above the high water mark.

5-18

• Scrape or dig out a trench running north to south so that it

receives the least amount of sunlight. Make the trench

long and wide enough for you to lie down comfortably.

• Mound soil on three sides of the trench. The higher the

mound, the more space inside the shelter.

• Lay support beams (driftwood or other natural material)

that span the trench on top of the mound to form the

framework for a roof.

• Enlarge the shelter’s entrance by digging out more sand in

front of it.

• Use natural materials such as grass or leaves to form a bed

inside the shelter.

Figure 5-13. Beach Shade Shelter

DESERT SHELTERS

5-47. In an arid environment, consider the time, effort, and

material needed to make a shelter. If you have material such as a

poncho, canvas, or a parachute, use it along with such terrain

features as rock outcroppings, mounds of sand, or depressions

between dunes or rocks to make your shelter.

5-48. When using rock outcroppings, you should—

• Anchor one end of your poncho (canvas, parachute, or other

material) on the edge of the outcrop using rocks or other

weights.

5-19

• Extend and anchor the other end of the poncho so it

provides the best possible shade.

5-49. In a sandy area, you should—

• Build a mound of sand or use the side of a sand dune for

one side of the shelter.

• Anchor one end of the material on top of the mound using

sand or other weights.

• Extend and anchor the other end of the material so it

provides the best possible shade.

NOTE: If you have enough material, fold it in half and form a 30-

to 45-centimeter (12- to 18-inch) airspace between the two halves.

This airspace will reduce the temperature under the shelter.

5-50. A belowground shelter (Figure 5-14, page 5-21) can reduce

the midday heat as much as 16 to 22 degrees C (30 to 40 degrees

F). However, building it requires more time and effort than for

other shelters. Since your physical effort will make you sweat more

and increase dehydration, construct it before the heat of the day.

5-51. To make this shelter, you should—

• Find a low spot or depression between dunes or rocks. If

necessary, dig a trench 45 to 60 centimeters (18 to 24

inches) deep, and long and wide enough for you to lie in

comfortably.

• Pile the sand you take from the trench to form a mound

around three sides.

• On the open end of the trench, dig out more sand so you

can get in and out of your shelter easily.

• Cover the trench with your material.

• Secure the material in place using sand, rocks, or other

weights.

5-52. If you have extra material, you can further decrease the

midday temperature in the trench by securing the material 30 to

45 centimeters (12 to 18 inches) above the other cover. This

layering of the material will reduce the inside temperature 11 to

22 degrees C (20 to 40 degrees F).

5-20

Chapter 6

Water Procurement

Water is one of your most urgent needs in a

survival situation. You can’t live long without it,

especially in hot areas where you lose water

rapidly through perspiration. Even in cold areas,

you need a minimum of 2 liters of water each day

to maintain efficiency.

More than three-fourths of your body is

composed of fluids. Your body loses fluid because

of heat, cold, stress, and exertion. To function

effectively, you must replace the fluid your body

loses. So, one of your first goals is to obtain an

adequate supply of water.

WATER SOURCES

6-1. Almost any environment has water present to some degree.

Figure 6-1, pages 6-2 and 6-3, lists possible sources of water in

various environments. It also provides information on how to

make the water potable.

NOTE: If you do not have a canteen, cup, can, or other type of

container, improvise one from plastic or water-resistant cloth.

Shape the plastic or cloth into a bowl by pleating it. Use pins or

other suitable items—even your hands—to hold the pleats.

6-1

Means of

Sources of

Obtaining and/or

Environment

Water

Making Potable

Remarks

Frigid areas

Snow and ice

Melt and purify.

Do not eat without melting! Eating

snow or ice can reduce body

temperature and lead to more

dehydration.

Snow or ice are no purer than the

water from which they come.

Sea ice that is gray in color or

opaque is salty. Do not use it without

desalting it. Sea ice that is crystalline

with a bluish cast has little salt in it.

At sea

Sea

Use desalinator.

Do not drink seawater without

desalting.

Rain

Catch rain in

If tarp or water-holding material is

tarps or in other

coated with salt, wash it in the sea

water-holding

before using (very little salt will

containers.

remain on it).

Sea ice

See previous remarks for frigid

areas.

Beach

Ground

Dig hole deep

Alternate method if a container or

enough to allow

bark pot is available: Fill container or

water to seep in;

pot with seawater; build fire and boil

obtain rocks, build

water to produce steam; hold cloth

fire, and heat

over container to absorb steam;

rocks; drop hot

wring water from cloth.

rocks in water;

hold cloth over

hole to absorb

steam; wring

water from cloth.

Fresh

Dig behind first

group of sand

dunes. This will

allow the

collection of fresh

water.

Desert

Ground

Dig holes deep

In a sand dune belt, any available

• In valleys and

enough to allow

water will be found beneath the

low areas

water to seep in.

original valley floor at the edge of

dunes.

• At foot of concave

banks of dry rivers

• At foot of cliffs

or rock outcrops

• At first depression

behind first sand

dune of dry lakes

• Wherever you find

damp surface

sand

• Wherever you find

green vegetation

Figure 6-1. Water Sources in Different Environments

6-2

FM 3-05.70 Field Manual Survival (17 May 2002) - page 3