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Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R Motorcycle. Service Manual (2001-2002 year) - page 3

FINAL DRIVE 10-7

Drive Chain

Drive Chain Replacement (ZX600-J4 ∼ (US),

ZX600J6F ∼ (CA))

CAUTION

For safety, if the drive chain shall be replaced, re-

place it using a recommended tool.

Recommended Tool - Type: EK JOINT Tool #50

Brand: ENUMA CHAIN

Body [A]

Handlebar [B]

Cutting and Rivetting Pin [C]

For Cutting [D]

For Rivetting [E]

Plate Holder (A) [F]

Plate Holder (B) [G]

Gauge [H]

Drive Chain Specifications

Type:

EX525UVXL2, Endless

Link:

108 Links (KLJ)

Remove:

•

Chain Cover (see Drive Chain Removal)

Engine Sprocket Cover (see Engine Sprocket Removal)

Grind [A] the pin head to make it flat.

•

Set the cutting and rivetting pin [B] as shown.

•

Screw the pin holder until it touches the link pin.

•

Be sure that the cutting pin hits center of the link pin.

•

10-8 FINAL DRIVE

Drive Chain

Screw the handlebar [A] into the body.

•

Turn the pin holder with the wrench [B] clockwise to ex-

•

tract the link pin.

Replace the link pin, link plate and grease seals.

•

Apply grease to the link pins [A] and grease the seals [B]

•

[C].

Engage the drive chain on the engine and rear sprockets.

•

Insert the link pins in the drive chain ends.

•

Install the grease seals [C].

•

Install the link plate [D] so that the mark faces out.

•

Push the link plate by hand or plier to fix it.

•

Be sure to set the grease seals correctly.

•

Set the plate holder (A) [A] and plate holder (B) [B] on the

•

body.

Fit the plate holder (A) to the link plate.

•

Turn the pin holder by hand until the plate holder (B)

•

touches the other link plate.

Turn the pin holder by a wrench clockwise until two pins

•

of link come into groove of the plate holder (A).

Take off the plate holder.

•

FINAL DRIVE 10-9

Drive Chain

Set the plate holder (B) [A] and the cutting and rivetting

•

pin [B] as shown.

Turn the pin holder until the rivetting pin touches the link

•

pin.

Turn the wrench clockwise until the tip of rivetting pin con-

•

tact with the link pin.

Rivet it.

•

Repeat the same procedure for the other link pin.

•

After staking, check the staked area of the link pin for

•

cracks.

Measure the outside diameter [A] of the link pin and link

•

plates width [B].

Link Pin Outside Diameter

Standard:

5.6 ∼ 6.0 mm (0.22 ∼ 0.24 in.)

Link Plates Outside Width

Standard:

19.85 ∼ 20.00 mm (0.78 ∼ 0.79 in.)

If the reading exceeds the specified length, cut and rejoin

the chain again.

Check:

•

Movement of the Rollers

Adjust the drive chain slack after installing the chain.

•

10-10 FINAL DRIVE

Sprocket, Coupling

Engine Sprocket Removal

Remove:

•

Speed Sensor Bolt [A]

Speed Sensor [B]

Engine Sprocket Cover Bolts [C]

Engine Sprocket Cover [D]

Flatten out the bended washer [A].

•

Remove the engine sprocket nut [B] and washer.

•

NOTE

○When loosening the engine sprocket nut, hold the rear

brake on.

Using the jack, raise the rear wheel off the ground.

•

Special Tool - Jack: 57001-1238

Loosen the drive chain (see Slack Adjustment).

•

Remove the drive chain from the rear sprocket toward the

•

right.

Disengage the drive chain [A] from the engine sprocket

•

[B].

Pull the engine sprocket off the output shaft [C].

•

Engine Sprocket Installation

Replace the sprocket washer and axle cotter pin.

•

Install the engine sprocket onto the shaft so that the mark

•

side [A] faces outwards.

Apply oil to the threads of the output shaft and the seating

•

surface of the engine sprocket nut.

After torquing the engine sprocket nut, bend the one side

•

of the washer over the nut.

NOTE

○Tighten the nut while applying the rear brake.

Torque - Engine Sprocket Nut: 127 N·m (13 kgf·m, 94 ft·lb)

Adjust the drive chain slack after installing the sprocket

•

(see Slack Adjustment).

Install the engine sprocket cover, and tighten the bolts.

•

Torque - Engine Sprocket Cover Bolts: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m,

104 in·lb)

Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of

•

the speed sensor bolt, and tighten it.

Torque - Speed Sensor Bolt: 6.9 N·m (0.70 kgf·m, 61 in·lb)

FINAL DRIVE 10-11

Sprocket, Coupling

Rear Sprocket Removal

Remove the rear wheel (see Wheels/Tires chapter).

•

CAUTION

Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc

facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.

Place blocks under the wheel so that the disc does

not touch the ground.

Remove the rear sprocket nuts [A].

•

Remove the rear sprocket [B].

•

Rear Sprocket Installation

Install the sprocket facing the tooth number marking [A]

•

outward.

Tighten the rear sprocket nuts.

•

Torque - Rear Sprocket Nut: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 43 ft·lb)

Install the rear wheel (see Wheels/ Tires chapter).

•

Coupling Installation

Grease the following and install the coupling.

•

Coupling Grease Seal [A]

Coupling Internal Surface [B]

Coupling Bearing Removal

Remove:

•

Coupling

Grease Seal

Circlip [A]

Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143 [B]

Remove the bearing [A] by tapping from the wheel side.

•

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129 [B]

10-12 FINAL DRIVE

Sprocket, Coupling

Coupling Bearing Installation

Replace the bearing with a new one.

•

Press in the bearing [A] until it is bottomed.

•

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129 [B]

Pack the bearing with high temperature grease.

•

Replace the circlip with a new one.

•

Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143

Replace the grease seal with a new one.

•

Press in the grease seal so that the seal surface is flush

•

with the end of the hole.

○Apply high temperature grease to the grease seal lips.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129

Coupling Bearing Inspection

Since the coupling bearing is made to extremely close

tolerances, the clearance can not normally be measured.

NOTE

○It is not necessary to remove the coupling bearing for

inspection. If the bearing is removed, it will need to be

replaced with a new one.

Turn the bearing in the coupling back and forth [A] while

•

checking for plays, roughness, or binding.

If bearing play, roughness, or binding is found, replace

the bearing.

Examine the bearing seal [B] for tears or leakage.

•

If the seal is torn or is leaking, replace the bearing.

Coupling Bearing Lubrication

Pack the bearing with good quality bearing grease. Turn

•

the bearing around by hand a few times to make sure the

grease is distributed uniformly inside the bearing.

Coupling Damper Inspection

Remove the rear wheel coupling, and inspect the rubber

•

dampers [A].

Replace the damper if it appears damaged or deterio-

•

rated.

FINAL DRIVE 10-13

Sprocket, Coupling

Sprocket Wear Inspection

Visually inspect the engine and rear sprocket teeth for

•

wear and damage.

If the teeth are worn as illustrated, replace the sprocket,

and inspect the drive chain wear (see Drive Chain Wear

Inspection).

[A] Worn Tooth (Engine Sprocket)

[B] Worn Tooth (Rear Sprocket)

[C] Direction of Rotation

NOTE

○If a sprocket requires replacement, the chain is probably

worn also.

○When replacing a sprocket, inspect the chain.

Rear Sprocket Warp Inspection

Raise the rear wheel off the ground (see Wheels/Tires

•

chapter) so that it will turn freely.

Set a dial gauge [A] against the rear sprocket [B] near the

•

teeth as shown, and rotate [C] the rear wheel to measure

the sprocket runout (warp). The difference between the

highest and lowest dial gauge readings is the amount of

runout (warp).

If the runout exceeds the service limit, replace the rear

sprocket.

Rear Sprocket Warp

Standard:

0.4 mm (0.016 in.) or less

Service Limit:

0.5 mm (0.020 in.)

11-2 BRAKES

Exploded View

1. Brake Rod Joint Cotter Pin

T8: 18 N·m (1.8 kgf·m, 13 ft·lb)

2. Brake Pedal Bolt

T9: 21 N·m (2.1 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)

T1: 1.0 N·m (0.10 kgf·m, 9 in·lb)

T10: 27 N·m (2.8 kgf·m, 20 ft·lb)

T2: 1.5 N·m (0.15 kgf·m, 13 in·lb)

T11: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)

T3: 2.9 N·m (0.30 kgf·m, 26 in·lb)

T12: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)

T4: 5.9 N·m (0.60 kgf·m, 52 in·lb)

B: Apply brake fluid.

T5: 6.9 N·m (0.70 kgf·m, 61 in·lb)

G: Apply grease.

T6: 7.8 N·m (0.80 kgf·m, 69 in·lb)

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

T7: 8.8 N·m (0.90 kgf·m, 78 in·lb) (ZX600J1 ∼

R: Replacement Parts

J4, J6F)

S: Follow the specific tightening sequence.

11 N·m (1.1 kgf·m, 97 in·lb) (ZX600J7F )

Si: Apply silicone grease (ex. PBC grease).

BRAKES 11-3

Exploded View

BRAKES 11-5

Brake Pedal

Brake Lever Position Adjustment

The brake lever adjuster has 5 positions so that the brake

lever position can be adjusted to suit the operator’s hand.

Push the lever forward and turn the adjuster [A] to align

•

the number with the arrow mark [B] on the lever holder.

○The distance from the grip to the lever is minimum at num-

ber 5 and maximum at number 1.

Brake Pedal Position Inspection

Check that the brake pedal [A] is in the correct position.

•

[B] Footpeg

Pedal Position

Standard:

About 57 mm (2.24 in.) [C] below top of

footpeg

If it is incorrect, adjust the brake pedal position.

Brake Pedal Position Adjustment

NOTE

○Usually it is not necessary to adjust the pedal position,

but always adjust it when push rod locknut has been

loosened.

Remove the rear master cylinder cover [B], and then

•

tighten the master cylinder bolts [A] only.

Loosen the locknut [A] and turn the push rod with the hex

•

head [B] to achieve the correct pedal position.

If the length [C] shown is 65 ±1 mm (2.56 ±0.04 in.), the

pedal position will be within the standard range.

Tighten:

•

Torque - Rear Master Cylinder Push Rod Locknut: 18 N·m

(1.8 kgf·m, 13 ft·lb)

Check the brake light switch operation (see Electrical Sys-

•

tem chapter).

11-6 BRAKES

Calipers

Front Caliper Removal

Loosen the banjo bolt [A] at the brake hose lower end,

•

and tighten it loosely.

Unscrew the caliper mounting bolts [B], and detach the

•

caliper [C] from the disc.

CAUTION

Do not loosen the caliper assembly bolts [D]. Take

out only the caliper mounting bolts for caliper re-

moval. Loosening the caliper assembly bolts will

cause brake fluid leakage.

Unscrew the banjo bolt and remove the brake hose [E]

•

from the caliper (see Brake Hose Removal/Installation).

CAUTION

Immediately wash away any brake fluid that spills.

NOTE

○If the caliper is to be disassembled after removal and if

compressed air is not available, disassemble the caliper

before the brake hose is removed (see Front Caliper

Disassembly).

Rear Caliper Removal

Loosen the banjo bolt [A] at the brake hose lower end,

•

and tighten it loosely.

Unscrew the caliper mounting bolts [B], and detach the

•

caliper [C] from the disc.

Unscrew the banjo bolt and remove the brake hose [D]

•

from the caliper (see Brake Hose Removal/Installation).

CAUTION

Immediately wash away any brake fluid that spills.

NOTE

○If the caliper is to be disassembled after removal and if

compressed air is not available, disassemble the caliper

before the brake hose is removed (see Rear Caliper

Disassembly).

Caliper Installation

Install the caliper and brake hose lower end.

•

○Replace the washers on each side of hose fitting with new

ones.

Tighten:

•

Torque - Front Caliper Mounting Bolts: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m,

25 ft·lb)

Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m,

18 ft·lb)

Brake Hose Banjo Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18

ft·lb)

Check the fluid level in the brake reservoirs.

•

Bleed the brake line (see Bleeding the Brake Line).

•

Check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag,

•

and no fluid leakage.

BRAKES 11-7

Calipers

WARNING

Do not attempt to drive the motorcycle until a full

brake lever or pedal is obtained by pumping the

brake lever or pedal until the pads are against the

disc. The brakes will not function on the first appli-

cation of the lever or pedal if this is not done.

Front Caliper Disassembly

Loosen the front caliper assembly bolt [A] and banjo bolt

•

[B], and tighten them loosely.

Remove:

•

Front Caliper [C] (see Caliper Removal)

Brake Pads

Front Caliper Assembly Bolts

O-rings

Using compressed air, remove the pistons. One way to

•

remove the pistons is as follows.

○Install a rubber gasket [A] and a wooden board [B] more

than 10 mm thick on the caliper half, and fasten them

together with a suitable bolt and nut as shown. Leave

one of the oil passages [C] open.

○Lightly apply compressed air [D] to the oil passage until

the pistons hit the rubber gasket. Block the hose joint

opening [E] during this operation if the caliper half has

the opening.

[F] Bolt and Nut

[G] Oil Passage sealed by Rubber Gasket.

[H] Push down.

WARNING

To avoid serious injury, never place your fingers or

palm in front of the piston. If you apply compressed

air into the caliper, the piston may crush your hand

or fingers.

○Pull out the pistons by hand.

Remove the dust seals [A] and fluid seals [B].

•

Remove the bleed valve [C] and rubber cap [D].

•

Repeat the previous step to remove the pistons from the

•

other side of the caliper body.

NOTE

○If compressed air is not available, do as follows for both

calipers coincidentally, with the brake hose connected

to the caliper.

○Prepare a container for brake fluid, and perform the

work above it.

○Remove the spring and pads (see Front Brake Pad Re-

moval).

○Pump the brake lever until the pistons come out of the

cylinders, and then disassemble the caliper.

11-8 BRAKES

Calipers

Front Caliper Assembly

Clean the caliper parts except for the pads.

•

CAUTION

For cleaning the parts, use only disc brake fluid,

isopropyl alcohol, or ethyl alcohol.

Install the bleed valve and rubber cap.

•

Tighten:

•

Torque - Bleed Valve: 7.8 N·m (0.80 kgf·m, 69 in·lb)

Replace the fluid seals [A] with new ones.

•

○Apply brake fluid to the fluid seals, and install them into

the cylinders by hand.

Replace the dust seals [B] with new ones if they are dam-

•

aged.

○Apply brake fluid to the dust seals, and install them into

the cylinders by hand.

Replace the O-rings [A] if they are damaged.

•

Apply brake fluid to the outside of the pistons, and push

•

them into each cylinder by hand.

Be sure to install the O-rings.

•

Tighten the caliper assembly bolts.

•

Torque - Front Caliper Assembly Bolts: 21 N·m (2.1 kgf·m,

15 ft·lb)

Install the pads (see Front Brake Pad Installation).

•

Wipe up any spilled brake fluid on the caliper with wet

•

cloth.

Rear Caliper Disassembly

Remove the rear caliper.

•

Remove the pads and anti-rattle spring (see Rear Brake

•

Pad Removal).

Using compressed air, remove the piston.

•

○Cover the caliper opening with a clean, heavy cloth [A].

○Remove the piston by lightly applying compressed air [B]

to where the brake line fits into the caliper.

WARNING

To avoid serious injury, never place your fingers or

palm inside the caliper opening. If you apply com-

pressed air into the caliper, the piston may crush

your hand or fingers.

Remove the dust seal and fluid seal.

•

Remove the bleed valve and rubber cap.

•

BRAKES 11-9

Calipers

NOTE

○If compressed air is not available, do as follows with the

brake hose connected to the caliper.

○Prepare a container for brake fluid, and perform the

work above it.

○Remove the pads and spring (see Rear Brake Pad Re-

moval).

○Pump the brake pedal to remove the caliper piston.

Rear Caliper Assembly

Clean the caliper parts except for the pads.

•

CAUTION

For cleaning the parts, use only disc brake fluid,

isopropyl alcohol, or ethyl alcohol.

Install the bleed valve and rubber cap.

•

Tighten:

•

Torque - Bleed Valve: 7.8 N·m (0.80 kgf·m, 69 in·lb)

Replace the fluid seal [A] with a new one.

•

○Apply brake fluid to the fluid seal, and install it into the

cylinder by hand.

Replace the dust seal [B] with a new one if it is damaged.

•

○Apply brake fluid to the dust seal, and install it into the

cylinder by hand.

Apply brake fluid to the outside of the piston, and push it

•

into the cylinder by hand.

Replace the shaft rubber boot [A] and dust cover [B] if

•

they are damaged.

Apply a thin coat of PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease to

•

the caliper holder shafts [C] and holder holes [D] (PBC is

a special high temperature, water-resistance grease).

Install the anti-rattle spring [A] in the caliper as shown.

•

Install the pads (see Rear Brake Pad Installation).

•

Wipe up any spilled brake fluid on the caliper with wet

•

cloth.

11-10 BRAKES

Calipers

Caliper Fluid Seal Damage Inspection

The fluid seals [A] around the piston maintain the proper

pad/disc clearance. If the seals are not satisfactory, pad

wear will increase, and constant pad drag on the disc will

raise brake and brake fluid temperature.

Replace the fluid seals under any of the following condi-

•

tions: (a) fluid leakage around the pad; (b) brakes over-

heat (c) there is a large difference in inner and outer pad

wear; (d) the seal is stuck to the piston.

If the fluid seal is replace, replace the dust seal as well.

Also, replace all seals every other time the pads are

changed.

Caliper Dust Seal/Rubber Boot Damage Inspection

Check that the dust seals [B] and rubber boot [C] are not

•

cracked, worn, swollen, or otherwise damaged.

If they show any damage, remove the caliper bracket and

•

replace them.

Caliper Piston and Cylinder Damage Insepction

Visually inspect the piston [D] and cylinder surfaces.

•

Replace the caliper if the cylinder and piston are badly

scores or rusty.

Front Caliper [F]

Rear Caliper [G]

Caliper Holder Shaft Wear Inspection

The caliper body must slide smoothly on the caliper holder

shafts [E]. If the body does not slide smoothly, one pad will

wear more than the other, pad wear will increase, and con-

stant drag on the disc will raise brake and brake fluid tem-

perature.

Check to see that the caliper holder shafts are not badly

•

worn or stepped, and that the rubber boots are not dam-

aged.

If the rubber boot is damaged, replace the rubber boot. To

replace the rubber boot, remove the pads and the caliper

bracket.

If the caliper holder shaft is damage, replace the caliper

bracket.

BRAKES 11-11

Brake Pads

Front Brake Pad Removal

Remove:

•

Pad Spring Bolts [A]

Pad Spring [B]

Clip [A]

Pad Pin [B]

Brake Pads [C]

Front Brake Pad Installation

Push the caliper pistons in by hand as far as they will go.

•

Install the brake pads.

•

Install the pad pin and clip. The clip must be "outside" of

•

the pads.

Install the pad spring and tighten the pad spring bolts.

•

Torque - Front Brake Pad Spring Bolts: 2.9 N·m (0.30 kgf·m,

26 in·lb)

WARNING

Do not attempt to drive the motorcycle until a full

brake lever is obtained by pumping the brake lever

until the pads are against the disc. The brake will

not function on the first application of the lever if

this is not done.

Rear Brake Pad Removal

Remove the caliper with the hose installed.

•

Remove:

•

Clip [A]

Pad Pin [B]

Brake Pads [C]

11-12 BRAKES

Brake Pads

Rear Brake Pad Installation

Push the caliper piston in by hand as far as it will go.

•

Install the anti-rattle spring in place.

•

Install the brake pads.

•

Install the pad pin and clip. The clip must be "outside" of

•

the pads.

Install the caliper (see Caliper Installation).

•

WARNING

Do not attempt to drive the motorcycle until a full

brake pedal is obtained by pumping the brake pedal

until the pads are against the disc. The brake will

not function on the first application of the pedal if

this is not done.

Brake Pad Wear Inspection

Check the lining thickness [A] of the pads in each caliper.

•

If the lining thickness of either pad is less than the service

limit [B], replace both pads in the caliper as a set.

Pad Lining Thickness

Standard:

Front

4 mm (0.16 in.)

Rear

5 mm (0.20 in.)

Service Limit:

1 mm (0.04 in.)

BRAKES 11-13

Master Cylinder

Front Master Cylinder Removal

Loosen the reservoir bracket bolts [A].

•

Disconnect the front brake light switch connectors.

•

Remove the banjo bolt [A] to disconnect the brake hose

•

from the master cylinder (see Brake Hose Removal/In-

stallation).

Unscrew the clamp bolts [B], and take off the master cylin-

•

der [C] as an assembly with the reservoir, brake lever, and

brake switch installed.

CAUTION

Immediately wash away any brake fluid that spills.

Front Master Cylinder Installation

Set the front master cylinder to match its mating surface

•

[A] to the punch mark [B] of the handlebar.

The master cylinder clamp must be installed with the ar-

•

row mark [C] upward.

Tighten the upper clamp bolt first, and then the lower

•

clamp bolt. There will be a gap at the lower part of the

clamp after tightening.

Torque - Front Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts:

8.8 N·m (0.90 kgf·m, 78 in·lb) (ZX600J1 ∼ J4,

J6F)

11 N·m (1.1 kgf·m, 97 in·lb) (ZX600J7F )

Replace the washers that are on each side of the hose

•

fitting with new ones.

Tighten:

•

Torque - Brake Hose Banjo Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18

ft·lb)

Bleed the brake line (see Bleeding the Brake Line).

•

Check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag,

•

and no fluid leakage.

Rear Master Cylinder Removal

Unscrew the brake hose banjo bolt [A] on the master cylin-

•

der (see Brake Hose Removal/Installation).

Pull off the reservoir hose lower end [B], and drain the

•

brake fluid into a container.

Remove the cotter pin [C] and joint pin [D].

•

NOTE

○Pull off the joint pin while pressing down the brake

pedal.

Unscrew the master cylinder mounting bolts [E], and take

•

off the master cylinder [F] and master cylinder cover [G].

11-14 BRAKES

Master Cylinder

Rear Master Cylinder Installation

Replace the cotter pin with a new one.

•

Replace the washers that are on each side of hose fitting

•

with new ones.

Tighten:

•

Torque - Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5

kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)

Brake Hose Banjo Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18

ft·lb)

Bleed the brake line (see Bleeding the Brake Line).

•

Check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag,

•

and no fluid leakage.

Front Master Cylinder Disassembly

Remove the front master cylinder (see Front Master Cylin-

•

der Removal).

Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm, and pour the

•

brake fluid into a container.

Unscrew the locknut and pivot bolt, and remove the brake

•

lever.

Pull the dust cover out of place, and remove the circlip.

•

Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143

Pull out the piston [A], secondary cup [B], primary cup [C],

•

and return spring [D].

CAUTION

Do not remove the secondary cup from the piston

since removal will damage it.

Rear Master Cylinder Disassembly

NOTE

○Do not remove the push rod clevis for master cylinder

disassembly since removal requires brake pedal posi-

tion adjustment.

Remove the rear master cylinder (see Rear Master Cylin-

•

der Removal).

Slide the dust cover on the push rod out of place, and

•

remove the circlip.

Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143

Pull out the push rod with the piston stop.

•

Take off the piston [A], secondary cup [B], primary cup [C],

•

and return spring [D].

CAUTION

Do not remove the secondary cup from the piston

since removal will damage it.

BRAKES 11-15

Master Cylinder

Master Cylinder Assembly

Before assembly, clean all parts including the master

•

cylinder with brake fluid or alcohol.

CAUTION

Except for the disc pads and disc, use only disc

brake fluid, isopropyl alcohol, or ethyl alcohol for

cleaning brake parts. Do not use any other fluid for

cleaning these parts, Gasoline, engine oil, or any

other petroleum distillate will cause deterioration of

the rubber parts. Oil spilled on any part will be diffi-

cult to wash off completely, and will eventually de-

teriorate the rubber used in the disc brake.

Apply brake fluid to the removed parts and to the inner

•

wall of the cylinder.

Take care not to scratch the piston or the inner wall of the

•

cylinder.

Apply silicone grease (ex. PBC grease)

•

Brake Lever Pivot Bolt

Brake Lever Pivot Contact

Push Rod Contact (Rear)

Dust Covers

Tighten:

•

Torque - Brake Lever Pivot Bolt:

1.0 N·m (0.10 kgf·m, 9

in·lb)

Brake Lever Pivot Bolt Locknut:

5.9 N·m (0.60

kgf·m, 52 in·lb)

Master Cylinder Inspection (Visual Inspection)

Disassemble the front and rear master cylinders.

•

Check that there are no scratches, rust or pitting on the

•

inner wall [A] of each master cylinder and on the outside

of each piston [B].

If a master cylinder or piston shows any damage, replace

them.

Inspect the primary cup [C] and secondary cup [D].

•

If a cup is worn, damaged softened (rotted), or swollen,

the piston assembly should be replaced to renew the

cups.

If fluid leakage is noted at the brake lever, the piston as-

sembly should be replaced to renew the cups.

Front Master Cylinder [J]

11-16 BRAKES

Master Cylinder

Check the dust covers [E] for damage.

•

If they are damaged, replace them.

Check the piston return spring [F] for any damage.

•

If the springs are damaged, replace them.

Check that relief port [G] and supply port [H] are not

•

plugged.

If the relief port becomes plugged, the brake pads will

drag on the disc. Blow the ports clean with compressed

air.

Rear Maser Cylinder [K]

BRAKES 11-17

Brake Disc

Brake Disc Removal

Remove the wheel (see Wheels/Tires chapter).

•

Unscrew the mounting bolts, and take off the disc.

•

Brake Disc Installation

Install the brake disc on the wheel so that the marked side

•

[A] faces out.

Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of

•

the rear brake disc mounting bolts [B].

Tighten:

•

Torque - Brake Disc Mounting Bolts: 27 N·m (2.8 kgf·m, 20

ft·lb)

Brake Disc Wear Inspection

Measure the thickness of each disc [A] at the point where

•

it has worn the most.

If the disc has worn past the service limit, replace it.

[B] Measuring Area

Front Disc Thickness

Standard:

4.8 ∼ 5.1 mm (0.189 ∼ 0.201 in.)

Service Limit:

4.5 mm (0.177 in.)

Rear Disc Thickness

Standard:

4.8 ∼ 5.2 mm (0.189 ∼ 0.205 in.)

Service Limit:

4.5 mm (0.177 in.)

Brake Disc Warp Inspection

Jack up the motorcycle so that the wheel is off the ground

•

(see Wheels/Tires chapter).

Special Tool - Jack: 57001-1238

○For front disc inspection, turn the handlebar fully to one

side.

Set up a dial gauge against the disc [A] as shown and

•

measure disc runout, while turning [B] the wheel by hand.

If runout exceeds the service limit, replace the disc.

Disc Runout

Standard:

0.15 mm 0.006 in.) or less

Service Limit:

0.3 mm (0.012 in.)

11-18 BRAKES

Brake Fluid

Level Inspection

Check that the brake fluid level in the front brake reservoir

•

[A] is above the lower level line [B].

NOTE

○Hold the reservoir horizontal by turning the handlebar

when checking brake fluid level.

If the fluid level is lower than the lower level line, fill the

reservoir to the upper level line [C].

Check that the brake fluid level in the rear brake reservoir

•

[A] is above the lower level [B].

If the fluid level is lower than the lower level line, remove

the fuel tank and fill the reservoir to the upper level line

[C].

WARNING

Change the brake fluid in the brake line completely

if the brake fluid must be refilled but the type and

brand of the brake fluid that is already in the reser-

voir are unidentified. After changing the fluid, use

only the same type and brand of fluid thereafter.

Recommended Disc Brake Fluid

Grade: DOT4

NOTE

○Follow the procedure shown below to install the

front/rear brake fluid reservoir cap correctly.

○First, tighten the front/rear brake fluid reservoir cap [B]

clockwise [C] by hand until slight resistance is felt indi-

cating that the cap is seated on the reservoir body, then

tighten the cap an additional 1/6 [D] while holding the

brake fluid reservoir body [A].

Brake Fluid Change

NOTE

○The procedure to change the front brake fluid is as fol-

lows. Changing the rear brake fluid is the same as for

the front brake.

BRAKES 11-19

Brake Fluid

Level the brake fluid reservoir.

•

Remove the reservoir cap.

•

Remove the rubber cap from the bleed valve [A] on the

•

caliper.

Attach a clear plastic hose [B] to the bleed valve, and run

•

the other end of the hose into a container.

Fill the reservoir with fresh specified brake fluid.

•

Change the brake fluid.

•

○Repeat this operation until fresh brake fluid comes out

from the plastic hose or the color of the fluid changes.

1. Open the bleed valve [A].

2. Apply the brake and hold it [B].

3. Close the bleed valve [C].

4. Release the brake [D].

NOTE

○The fluid level must be checked often during the chang-

ing operation and replenished with fresh brake fluid. If

the fluid in the reservoir runs out any time during the

changing operation, the brakes will need to be bled

since air will have entered the brake line.

○Front Brake: Repeat the above steps for the other

caliper.

Remove the clear plastic hose.

•

Install the reservoir cap.

•

Tighten:

•

Torque - Front Brake Reservoir Cap Stopper Screw:

1.5

N·m (0.15 kgf·m, 13 in·lb)

Tighten the bleed valve, and install the rubber cap.

•

After changing the fluid, check the brake for good braking

•

power, no brake drag, and no fluid leakage.

Torque - Bleed Valve: 7.8 N·m (0.80 kgf·m, 69 in·lb)

If necessary, bleed the air from the lines.

Bleeding the Brake Line

The brake fluid has a very low compression coefficient so

that almost all the movement of the brake lever or pedal

is transmitted directly to the caliper for braking action. Air,

however, is easily compressed. When air enters the brake

lines, brake lever or pedal movement will be partially used

in compressing the air. This will make the lever or pedal feel

spongy, and there will be a loss in braking power.

WARNING

Be sure to bleed the air from the brake line when-

ever brake lever or pedal action feels soft or

spongy after the brake fluid is changed, or when-

ever a brake line fitting has been loosened for any

reason.

11-20 BRAKES

Brake Fluid

NOTE

○The procedure to bleed the front brake line is as follows.

Bleeding the rear brake line is the same as for the front

brake.

Remove the reservoir cap, and fill the reservoir with fresh

•

brake fluid to the upper level line in the reservoir.

With the reservoir cap off, slowly pump the brake lever

•

several times until no air bubbles can be seen rising up

through the fluid from the holes at the bottom of the reser-

voir.

○Bleed the air completely from the master cylinder by this

operation.

Install the reservoir cap.

•

Remove the rubber cap from the bleed valve on the

•

caliper.

Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleed valve, and run the

•

other end of the hose into a container.

Bleed the brake line and the caliper.

•

○Repeat this operation until no more air can be seen com-

ing out into the plastic hose.

1. Pump the brake lever until it becomes hard, and apply

the brake and hold it [A].

2. Quickly open and close [B] the bleed valve while hold-

ing the brake applied.

3. Release the brake [C].

NOTE

○The fluid level must be checked often during the bleed-

ing operation and replenished with fresh brake fluid as

necessary. If the fluid in the reservoir runs completely

out any time during bleeding, the bleeding operation

must be done over again from the beginning since air

will have entered the line.

○Tap the brake hose lightly from the caliper to the reser-

voir for more complete bleeding.

○Front Brake: Repeat the above steps for the other

caliper.

Remove the clear plastic hose.

•

Tighten:

•

Torque - Front Brake Reservoir Cap Stopper Screw:

1.5

N·m (0.15 kgf·m, 13 in·lb)

Tighten the bleed valve, and install the rubber cap.

•

Torque - Bleed Valve: 7.8 N·m (0.80 kgf·m, 69 in·lb)

Check the fluid level.

•

After bleeding is done, check the brake for good braking

•

power, no brake drag, and no fluid leakage.

12-2 SUSPENSION

Exploded View

T1: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 14.5 ft·lb)

T2: 23 N·m (2.3 kgf·m, 16.5 ft·lb)

T3: 28 N·m (2.9 kgf·m, 21 ft·lb)

T4: 39 N·m (4.0 kgf·m, 29 ft·lb)

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

R: Replacement Parts

SUSPENSION 12-3

Exploded View

T1: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 43 ft·lb)

T2: 108 N·m (11 kgf·m, 80 ft·lb)

T3: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)

G: Apply or add grease.

1. Nut (ZX600-J1 Model)

Washer (ZX600-J2 ∼ Model)

2. Grease Nipple (ZX600-J1 ∼ J3 Models)

12-6 SUSPENSION

Front Fork

Rebound Damping Force Adjustment

ZX600-J1 ∼ J3

To adjust the rebound damping force, turn the rebound

•

damping adjuster [A] until you feel a click.

○The standard adjuster setting for the average-build rider

of 68 kg (150 lb) with no passenger and no accessories

is the 7th click from the 1st click of the fully clockwise

position.

ZX600-J4 ∼ (US), ZX600J6F ∼ (CA)

To adjust the rebound damping force, turn the rebound

•

damping adjuster [A] up to the specified turns.

○The standard adjuster setting for the average-build rider

of 68 kg (150 lb) and with no passenger and accessories

is 1 1/2 turns out from fully clockwise position.

WARNING

If both adjusters are not adjusted equally, handling

may be impaired and a hazardous condition may

result.

○The damping force can be left soft for average riding. But

it should be adjusted harder for high speed riding or riding

with a passenger. If the damping feels too soft or too stiff,

adjust it in accordance with the following table.

Rebound Damping Force Adjustment

Adjuster

Damping

Setting

Load

Road

Speed

Position

Force

A

Weak

Soft

Light

Good

Low

↑

↑

↑

↑

↑

↑

↓

↓

↓

↓

↓

↓

B

Strong

Hard

Heavy

Bad

High

A: 12 clicks (ZX600-J1 ∼ J3)

3 turns out (ZX600-J4 ∼ (US), ZX600J6F ∼ (CA))

B: 1 click (ZX600-J1 ∼ J3)

Fully clockwise position (ZX600-J4 ∼ (US), ZX600J6F

∼ (CA))

Compression Damping Force Adjustment

ZX600-J1 ∼ J3

To adjust the compression damping force, turn the com-

•

pression damping adjuster [A] until you feel a click.

○The standard adjuster setting for the average-build rider

of 68 kg (150 lb) with no passenger and no accessories

is the 9th click from the 1st click of the fully clockwise

position.

ZX600-J4 ∼ (US), ZX600J6F ∼ (CA)

To adjust the compression damping force, turn the re-

•

bound damping adjuster [A] up to the specified turns.

○The standard adjuster setting for the overage-build rider

of 68 kg (150 lb) and with no passenger and accessories

is 2 turns out from fully clockwise position.

WARNING

If both adjusters are not adjusted equally, handling

may be impaired and a hazardous condition may

result.

SUSPENSION 12-7

Front Fork

○The damping force can be left soft for average riding. But

it should be adjusted harder for high speed riding or riding

with a passenger. If the damping feels too soft or too stiff,

adjust it in accordance with the following table.

Compression Damping Force Adjustment

Adjuster

Damping

Setting

Load

Road

Speed

Position

Force

A

Weak

Soft

Light

Good

Low

↑

↑

↑

↑

↑

↑

↓

↓

↓

↓

↓

↓

B

Strong

Hard

Heavy

Bad

High

A: 12 clicks (ZX600-J1 ∼ J3)

3 turns out (ZX600-J4 ∼ (US), ZX600J6F ∼ (CA))

B: 1 click (ZX600-J1 ∼ J3)

Fully clockwise position (ZX600-J4 ∼ (US), ZX600J6F

∼ (CA))

Spring Preload Adjustment

Turn the spring preload adjuster [A] to change spring

•

preload setting.

○The standard adjuster setting for the average-build rider

of 68 kg (150 lb) with no passenger and no accessories

is the 14 mm [B] from top as shown.

Adjuster Protrusion (from top)

Standard:

14 mm (0.55 in.)

Usable Range:

5 ∼ 20 mm (0.20 ∼ 0.79 in.)

WARNING

If both adjusters are not adjusted equally, handling

may be impaired and a hazardous condition may

result.

○The spring preload can be left soft for average riding. But

it should be adjusted harder for high speed riding or riding

with a passenger. If the spring action feels too soft or too

stiff, adjust it in accordance with the following table.

Spring Action

Adjuster

Damping

Setting

Load

Road

Speed

Position

Force

20 mm

Weak

Soft

Light

Good

Low

↑

↑

↑

↑

↑

↑

↓

↓

↓

↓

↓

↓

5mm

Strong

Hard

Heavy

Bad

High

12-8 SUSPENSION

Front Fork

Front Fork Removal (each fork leg)

Remove:

•

Lower and Upper Fairings (see Frame chapter)

Front Wheel (see Wheels/Tires chapter)

Front Fender (see Frame chapter)

Loosen the handlebar holder bolt [A], upper fork clamp

bolt [B] and fork top plug [C] beforehand if the fork leg is

to be disassembled.

NOTE

○Loosen the top plug after loosening the handlebar

holder bolt and upper fork clamp bolt.

Loosen the handlebar holder bolt [A], upper fork clamp

•

bolt [B] and lower fork clamp bolts [C].

With a twisting motion, work the fork leg down and out.

•

Front Fork Installation

Install the fork so that the top end [A] of the inner tube is

•

flush with the upper surface [B] of the steering stem head.

Tighten:

•

Torque - Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower):

20 N·m (2.0

kgf·m, 14.5 ft·lb)

Front Fork Top Plugs: 23 N·m (2.3 kgf·m, 16.5 ft·lb)

NOTE

○Tighten the top plug before tightening the handlebar

holder bolt and upper fork clamp bolt.

Tighten:

•

Torque - Handlebar Holder Bolts:

25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18

ft·lb)

Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper):

20 N·m (2.0

kgf·m, 14.5 ft·lb)

Adjust the spring preload and the damping force.

•

Fork Oil Change

Remove the front fork (see Front Fork Removal).

•

○Turn the spring preload adjuster [A] counterclockwise until

the fully position.

Unscrew the top plug [B] out of the inner tube.

•

SUSPENSION 12-9

Front Fork

Holding the piston rod nut [A] with a wrench [B], remove

•

the fork top plug from the piston rod.

Remove:

•

Rebound Damping Adjuster Rod [A]

Washer [B]

Spacer [C]

Washer [A]

Fork Spring [B]

Drain the fork oil into a suitable container.

•

○Pump the piston rod [B] up and down at least ten times to

expel the oil from the fork.

Special Tool - Fork Piston Rod Puller, M12 × 1.25: 57001

-1289 [A]

12-10 SUSPENSION

Front Fork

Hold the fork tube upright, press the inner tube and the

•

piston rod all the way down.

Pour in the type and amount of fork oil specified.

•

Fork Oil

Viscosity:

KHL34 (KAYABA G10) or

equivalent

Amount (per side)

When changing oil:

approx. 455 mL (15.4 US oz)

(ZX600-J1 ∼ J3)

approx. 459 mL (15.5 US oz)

(ZX600-J4 ∼ (US), ZX600J6F

∼ (CA))

After disassembly and 537 ±4 mL (18.2 ±0.1 US oz)

completely dry:

(ZX600-J1 ∼ J3)

541 ±4 mL (18.3 ±0.1 US oz)

(ZX600-J4 ∼ (US), ZX600J6F

∼ (CA))

If necessary, measure the oil level as follows.

○Hold the outer tube vertically in a vise.

○Pump the inner tube several times to expel air bubbles.

○Using the piston rod puller [A], move the piston rod [B] up

and down more than ten times in order to expel all the air

from the fork oil.

Special Tool - Fork Piston Rod Puller, M12 × 1.25: 57001

-1289

○Wait until the oil level settles.

○With the fork fully compressed and the piston rod fully

pushed in, insert a tape measure or rod into the inner

tube, and measure the distance from the top of the inner

tube to the oil.

Oil Level (fully compressed, without spring)

Standard:

116 ±2 mm (4.57 ±0.08 in.) (from the top of

the inner tube) (ZX600-J1 ∼ J3)

113 ±2 mm (4.45 ±0.08 in.) (from the top of

the inner tube) (ZX600-J4 ∼ (US), ZX600J6F

∼ (CA))

NOTE

○Fork oil level may also be measured using the fork oil

level gauge.

Special Tool - Fork Oil Level Gauge: 57001-1290 [A]

○With the fork fully compressed and without fork spring,

insert the gauge tube into the inner tube [B] and position

the stopper across the top end of the inner tube.

○Set the gauge stopper [C] so that its lower side shows the

oil level distance specified [D].

○Pull the handle slowly to pump out the excess oil until the

oil no longer comes out.

If no oil is pumped out, there is insufficient oil in the inner

tube. Pour in enough oil, then pump out the excess oil as

shown above.

SUSPENSION 12-11

Front Fork

Pull the piston rod [A] up above the inner tube top.

•

Screw the rod nut [B] on to the piston rod with the cham-

•

fered side down.

○Check that the visible thread length is at least 11 mm (0.43

in.) [D].

Insert the rebound damping adjuster rod into the piston

•

rod.

Screw the fork piston rod puller onto the end of the rod.

•

Special Tool - Fork Piston Rod Puller, M12 × 1.25: 57001

-1289

Install the fork spring with the smaller end facing down-

•

ward.

Install:

•

Washer

Spacer

Washer

Check the O-ring [A] on the top plug and replace it with a

•

new one if damaged.

Screw in the damper adjuster [B] of the top plug so that

•

the distance between the adjuster bottom and the spring

adjuster [C] end is 25 mm (0.98 in.) [D].

Holding the top plug [A] with a wrench, tighten the piston

•

rod nut [B] against the top plug.

Torque - Piston Rod Nut: 28 N·m (2.9 kgf·m, 21 ft·lb)

Raise the outer tube and screw the top plug into it.

•

Install the front fork (see Front Fork Installation).

•

Front Fork Disassembly

Remove the front fork (see Front Fork Removal).

•

Drain the fork oil (see Fork Oil Change).

•

Hold the front fork in a vise [A].

•

Stop the cylinder [B] from turning by using the fork cylinder

•

holder [C].

Special Tool - Fork Cylinder Holder, Hex

24

× □19.5:

57001-1406

Unscrew the Allen bolt [D], then take the bolt and gasket

•

out of the bottom of the inner tube.

12-12 SUSPENSION

Front Fork

Take the cylinder unit [A].

•

○Do not disassemble the cylinder unit.

Separate the inner tube from the outer tube as follows.

•

○Slide up the dust seal [A].

○Remove the retaining ring [B] from the outer tube.

○Grasp the inner tube and stroke the outer tube up and

down several times. The shock to the fork seal separates

the inner tube from the outer tube.

If the tubes are tight, use a fork outer tube weight [A].

Special Tool - Fork Outer Tube Weight: 57001-1218

Remove the inner tube guide bushing [A], outer tube

•

guide bushing [B], washer [C], oil seal [D] from the inner

tube.

Remove the cylinder base from the bottom of the outer

•

tube.

Front Fork Assembly

Replace the following parts with new one.

•

Oil Seal

Guide Bushings

Bottom Allen Bolt Gasket

Install the following parts onto the inner tube.

•

Dust Seal

Retaining Ring

Oil Seal

Washer

Outer Tube Guide Bushing

Inner Tube Guide Bushing

SUSPENSION 12-13

Front Fork

Insert the cylinder unit [A] into the inner tube [B].

•

Install the cylinder base [C] on the cylinder unit.

•

Insert the inner tube, cylinder unit, cylinder base as set

•

into the outer tube [D].

Replace the bottom Allen bolt gasket with a new one.

•

Stop the cylinder from turning by using the fork cylinder

•

holder.

Special Tool - Fork Cylinder Holder, Hex

24

× □19.5:

57001-1406

Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the Allen bolt and

•

tighten it.

Torque - Front Fork Bottom Allen Bolt: 39 N·m (4.0 kgf·m,

29 ft·lb)

Fit the new outer guide bushing [A] into the outer tube.

•

NOTE

○When assembling the new outer tube guide bushing,

hold the used guide bushing [B] against the new bush-

ing and tap the used guide bushing with the fork oil seal

driver [C] until it stops.

Special Tool - Front Fork Oil Seal Driver: 57001-1219

After installing the washer, install the oil seal by using the

•

fork oil seal driver.

Install the retaining ring and dust seal by hand.

•

Pour in the specified type of oil (see Fork Oil Change).

•

Inner Tube, Outer Tube Inspection

Visually inspect the inner tube, and repair any damage.

•

Nick or rust damage can sometimes be repaired by using

•

a wet-stone to remove sharp edges or raised areas which

cause seal damage.

If the damage is not repairable, replace the inner tube.

Since damage to the inner tube damages the oil seal,

replace the oil seal whenever the inner tube is repaired

or replaced.

CAUTION

If the inner tube is badly bent or creased, replace

it.

Excessive bending, followed by subsequent

straightening, can weaken the inner tube.

Temporarily assemble the inner and outer tubes, and

•

pump them back and forth manually to check for smooth

operation.

If you feel binding or catching, the inner and outer tubes

•

must be replaced.

WARNING

A straightened inner or outer fork tube may fall in

use, possibly causing an accident. Replace a badly

bent or damaged inner or outer tube and inspect the

other tube carefully before reusing it.

12-14 SUSPENSION

Front Fork

Dust Seal Inspection

Inspect the dust seal [A] for any signs of deterioration or

•

damage.

Replace it if necessary.

Spring Tension

Since a spring becomes shorter as it weakens, check its

•

free length [A] to determine its condition.

If the spring of either fork leg is shorter than the service

limit, it must be replaced. If the length of a replacement

spring and that of the remaining spring vary greatly, the

remaining spring should also be replaced in order to keep

the fork legs balanced for motorcycle stability.

Fork Spring Free Length

Standard:

234.6 mm (9.24 in.)

Service Limit:

230 mm (9.06 in.)

SUSPENSION 12-15

Rear Shock Absorber

Rebound Damping Force Adjustment

ZX600-J1 ∼ J3

To adjust the rebound damping force, turn the lower

•

damping adjuster [A] to the desired position, until you

feel a click.

○The standard adjuster setting for an average-build rider

of 68 kg (150 lb) with no passenger and no accessories

is the 10th click from the 1st click of the fully clockwise

position.

ZX600-J4 ∼ (US), ZX600J6F ∼ (CA)

To adjust the rebound damping force, turn the lower

•

damping adjuster [A] to the desired position up to the

specified turns.

○The standard adjuster setting for an average-build rider of

68 kg (150 lb) and with no passenger and no accessories

is 2 1/2 turns out from fully clockwise position.

Rebound Damping Force Adjustment

Adjuster

Damping

Setting

Load

Road

Speed

Position

Force

A

Weak

Soft

Light

Good

Low

↑

↑

↑

↑

↑

↑

↓

↓

↓

↓

↓

↓

B

Strong

Hard

Heavy

Bad

High

A: 18 clicks (ZX600-J1 ∼ J3)

4 1/2 turns out (ZX600-J4 ∼ (US), ZX600J6F ∼ (CA))

B: 1 click (ZX600-J1 ∼ J3)

Fully clockwise position (ZX600-J4 ∼ (US), ZX600J6F

∼ (CA))

Compression Damping Force Adjustment

ZX600-J1 ∼ J3

To adjust the compression damping force, turn the upper

•

damping adjuster [A] to the desired position until you feel

a click.

○The standard adjuster setting for the average-build rider

of 68 kg (150 lb) with no passenger and no accessories

is the 10th click from the 1st click of the fully clockwise

position.

ZX600-J4 ∼ (US), ZX600J6F ∼ (CA)

To adjust the compression damping force, turn the up-

•

per damping adjuster [A] to the desired position up to the

specified turns.

○The standard adjuster setting for an average-build rider of

68 kg (150 lb) and with no passenger and no accessories

is 2 1/2 turns out from fully clockwise position.

12-16 SUSPENSION

Rear Shock Absorber

Compression Damping Force Adjustment

Adjuster

Damping

Setting

Load

Road

Speed

Position

Force

A

Weak

Soft

Light

Good

Low

↑

↑

↑

↑

↑

↑

↓

↓

↓

↓

↓

↓

B

Strong

Hard

Heavy

Bad

High

A: 20 clicks (ZX600-J1 ∼ J3)

5 turns out (ZX600-J4 ∼ (US), ZX600J6F ∼ (CA))

B: 1 click (ZX600-J1 ∼ J3)

Fully clockwise position (ZX600-J4 ∼ (US), ZX600J6F

∼ (CA))

Spring Preload Adjustment

Remove the rear shock absorber from the frame (see

•

Rear Shock Absorber Removal).

Loosen the locknut and turn out the adjusting nut to free

•

the spring.

Special Tool - Hook Wrench: 57001-1101

To adjust the spring preload, turn in the adjusting nut [A]

•

to the desired position and tighten the locknut [B].

[C] Spring Length

Spring Preload Setting

Standard:

Spring length 180 mm (7.09 in.)

Usable Range:

Spring length 182 mm (7.17 in.) to

170 mm (6.69 in.)

○The standard adjusting nut setting for an average-build

rider of 68 kg (150 lb) with no passenger and no acces-

sories is 180 mm (7.09 in.) spring length.

Spring Adjustment

Adjuster

Damping

Setting

Load

Road

Speed

Position

Force

182 mm

Weak

Soft

Light

Good

Low

(7.17 in.)

↑

↑

↑

↑

↑

↑

↓

↓

↓

↓

↓

↓

170 mm

Strong

Hard

Heavy

Bad

High

(6.69 in.)

Rear Shock Absorber Removal

Remove the lower fairings (see Frame chapter).

•

Using the jack, raise the rear wheel off the ground.

•

Special Tool - Jack: 57001-1238

Squeeze the brake lever slowly and it with a band [A].

•

WARNING

Be sure to hold the front brake when removing the

shock absorber, or the motorcycle may fall over. It

could cause an accident and injury.

SUSPENSION 12-17

Rear Shock Absorber

Remove:

•

Lower Shock Absorber Bolt [A]

Upper Tie-Rod Bolt [B]

Remove:

•

Upper Shock Absorber Nut [A]

Upper Shock Absorber Bolt [B]

Remove the shock absorber forward the ground.

•

Rear Shock Absorber Installation

Pack the rocker arm needle bearings with grease.

•

Tighten:

•

Torque - Rear Shock Absorber Nuts: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25

ft·lb)

Tie-Rod Nuts: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 43 ft·lb)

Rear Shock Absorber Inspection

Remove the rear shock absorber.

•

Visually inspect the following items.

•

Smooth Stroke

Oil Leakage

Crack or Dent

If there is any damage to the rear shock absorber, replace

it.

Visually inspect the rubber bushing.

•

If it show any signs of damage, replace it.

Rear Shock Absorber Scrapping

WARNING

Since the reservoir tank of the rear shock absorber

contains nitrogen gas, do not incinerate the reser-

voir tank without first releasing the gas or it may

explode.

Remove the valve cap [A] and release the nitrogen gas

•

completely from the gas reservoir.

Remove the valve.

•

WARNING

Since the high pressure gas is dangerous, do not

point the valve toward your face or body.

12-18 SUSPENSION

Swingarm

Swingarm Removal

Remove:

•

Rear Wheel (see Wheels/Tires chapter)

Chain Cover (see Final Drive chapter)

Brake Hose Clamp [A]

Lower Shock Absorber Nut and Bolt [B]

Upper Tie-Rod Nut and Bolt [C]

Swingarm Pivot Nut [D]

Pull off the pivot shaft and remove the swingarm.

•

Swingarm Installation

Apply plenty of grease to the ball bearing, needle bearings

•

and grease seals, and add plenty grease to the grease

nipple.

Install the collars [A] and cap [B].

•

Insert the pivot shaft into the frame from the right side.

•

Tighten:

•

Torque - Swingarm Pivot Nut: 108 N·m (11 kgf·m, 80 ft·lb)

Swingarm Bearing Removal

Remove:

•

Swingarm

Collars [A]

Cap [B]

Grease Seals [C]

Sleeve [D]

Circlip (right side) [E]

Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143

Remove the ball bearing and needle bearings.

•

Special Tool - Oil Seal & Bearing Remover: 57001-1058 [A]

Swingarm Bearing Installation

Apply plenty of grease to the ball bearing and needle

•

bearings.

Install the needle bearings so that the manufacturer’s

•

marks faces in.

Install the ball bearing so that the manufacturer’s marks

•

faces out.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129 [A]

SUSPENSION 12-19

Swingarm

Swingarm Bearing, Sleeve Inspection

CAUTION

Do not remove the bearings for inspection. Remove

may damage them.

Check the ball bearing.

•

○Since the ball bearing is made to extremely close toler-

ances, the wear must be judged by feel rather than mea-

surement.

Turn [A] the bearing in the swingarm back and forth while

•

checking for plays, roughness, or binding.

If bearing play, roughness, or binding is found, replace

the bearing.

The rollers in a needle bearing normally wear very little,

•

and wear is difficult to measure. Instead of measuring,

inspect the bearing in the swingarm for abrasion, color

change, or other damage.

If there is any doubt as to the condition of any of the nee-

dle bearings or sleeve, replace the sleeve, and needle

bearings as a set.

Swingarm Lubrication

Apply grease to the inner surfaces of the needle bearings

•

in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart.

Apply a thin coat of grease to the lips of the grease seals.

•

12-20 SUSPENSION

Tie-Rod, Rocker Arm

Tie-Rod Removal

Remove:

•

Upper and Lower Fairings (see Frame chapter)

Radiator (see Cooling System chapter)

Muffler (see Engine Top End chapter)

Squeeze the brake lever slowly and hold it with a band

•

[A].

Using the jack, raise the rear wheel off the ground.

•

Special Tool - Jack: 57001-1238

Remove:

•

Upper Tie-Rod Bolt and Nut [A]

Lower Tie-Rod Bolt and Nut [B]

Tie-Rods [C]

Tie-Rod Installation

Apply grease to the inside of the needle bearings and

•

grease seals.

Install the tie-rods so that the chamfered side faces the

•

bolts and nuts.

Tighten:

•

Torque - Tie-Rod Nuts: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 43 ft·lb)

Rocker Arm Removal

Remove:

•

Upper and Lower Fairings (see Frame chapter)

Radiator (see Cooling System chapter)

Muffler (see Engine Top End chapter)

Squeeze the brake lever slowly and hold it with a band.

•

Using the jack, raise the rear wheel off the ground.

•

Special Tool - Jack: 57001-1238

Remove:

•

Lower Rear Shock Absorber Bolt and Nut [A]

Lower Tie-Rod Bolt and Nut [B]

Rocker Arm Bolt and Nut [C]

Rocker Arm [D]

Rocker Arm Installation

Apply grease to the inside of the needle bearings grease

•

seals.

Add grease to the grease nipple (ZX600-J1 ∼ J3).

•

Tighten:

•

Torque - Rocker Arm Nut: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)

Tie-Rod Nut: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 43 ft·lb)

Rear Shock Absorber Nut: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25

ft·lb)

13-2 STEERING

Exploded View

T1: 3.5 N·m (0.35 kgf·m, 30 in·lb)

T2: 4.9 N·m (0.5 kgf·m, 36 in·lb)

T3: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)

T4: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 14.5 ft·lb)

T5: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)

T6: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)

T7: 49 N·m (5.0 kgf·m, 36 ft·lb)

T8: 15 N·m (1.5 kgf·m, 11 ft·lb)

AD: Apply adhesive.

G: Apply grease.

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

13-4 STEERING

Steering

Steering Inspection

Lift the front wheel off the ground using the jack.

•

Special Tool - Jack: 57001-1238

With the front wheel pointing straight ahead, alternately

•

tap each end of the handlebar. The front wheel should

swing fully left and right from the force of gravity until the

fork hits the stop.

If the wheel binds or catches before the stop, the steering

is too tight.

Feel for steering looseness by pushing and pulling the

•

forks.

If you feel looseness, the steering is too loose.

NOTE

○The cables and wiring will have some effect on the mo-

tion of the fork which must be taken into account.

○Be sure the wires and cables are properly routed.

○The bearings must be in good condition and properly

lubricated in order for any test to be valid.

Steering Adjustment

Remove:

•

Upper fairing (see Frame chapter)

Fuel Tank (see Fuel System chapter)

Rear View Mirror Bracket

Loosen:

•

Lower Fork Clamp Bolts (both sides)

Stem Head Nut [A]

Adjust the steering.

•

Special Tool - Steering Stem Nut Wrench: 57001-1100 [B]

If the steering is too tight, loosen the stem nut a fraction

of a turn.

If the steering is too loose, tighten the stem nut a fraction

of a turn.

NOTE

○Turn the stem nut 1/8 turn at a time maximum.

Tighten:

•

Torque - Steering Stem Head Nut: 49 N·m (5.0 kgf·m, 36

ft·lb)

Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower):

20 N·m (2.0

kgf·m, 14.5 ft·lb)

Check the steering again.

•

If the steering is still too tight or too loose, repeat the ad-

justment.

STEERING 13-5

Steering Stem

Steering Stem, Stem Bearing Removal

Remove:

•

Fairings (see Frame chapter)

Fuel Tank (see Fuel System chapter)

Rear View Mirror Bracket

Brake Hose Joint Bolt [A] and Bracket Bolt [A]

Front Wheel (see Wheels/Tires chapter)

Front Fork (see Suspension chapter)

Steering Stem Head Nut and Washer

Steering Stem Head and Handlebars

Pushing up the stem base, and remove the steering stem

•

lock nut [A], steering stem nut [B], stem cap [C], then re-

move the steering stem [D].

Special Tool - Steering Stem Nut Wrench: 57001-1100

Remove the upper ball bearing inner race.

•

To remove the bearing outer races [A] pressed into the

•

head pipe [B], insert a bar [C] into the recesses [D] of head

pipe, and applying it to both recess alternately hammer it

to drive the race out.

NOTE

○If either steering stem bearing is damaged, it is recom-

mended that both the upper and lower bearings (includ-

ing outer races) should be replaced with new ones.

Remove the lower bearing inner race (with its grease seal)

•

which is pressed onto the steering stem with a suitable

commercially available bearing puller.

Steering Stem, Stem Bearing Installation

Replace the bearing outer races with new ones.

•

Apply grease to the outer races, and drive them into the

•

head pipe at the same time.

Special Tools - Head Pipe Outer Race Press Shaft: 57001

-1075 [A]

Head Pipe Outer Race Driver,

55:

57001

-1446 [B]

Head Pipe Outer Race Driver,

47:

57001

-1447 [C]

13-6 STEERING

Steering Stem

Replace the bearing inner races with new ones.

•

Install the oil seal [D] on the steering stem, and drive the

•

lower ball bearing inner race [A] applied the grease onto

the stem.

Special Tools - Steering Stem Bearing Driver,

42.5: 57001

-1344 [B]

Steering Stem Bearing Driver Adapter,

41.5: 57001-1345 [C]

Install the lower ball bearing [A] onto the stem.

•

Apply grease to the upper ball bearing [B] and inner race

•

[C].

Install the stem through the head pipe and install the ball

•

bearing and inner race on it.

Install stem cap [A] and steering stem nut [B] and hand

•

tighten it and steering stem lock nut [C].

Install the stem head.

•

Install the washer [D], and tighten the stem head nut [E]

•

lightly.

Settle the bearings in place as follows:

•

○Tighten the steering stem nut with 15 N·m (1.5 kgf·m, 11

ft·lb) of torque first, and loosen it a fraction of a turn until

it turns lightly. (To tighten the stem nut to the specified

torque, hook the wrench on the stem nut, and pull the

wrench at the hole by 84 N (8.3 kg) [B] force in the di-

rection shown.) Afterward tighten it again with specified

torque using a special tool [A].

○Tighten the steering stem lock nut with specified torque

using a special tool [A].

○Check that there is no play and the steering stem turns

smoothly without rattles. If not, the steering stem bearing

may be damaged.

○Again back out the stem lock nut a fraction of turn until it

turns lightly.

Turn the stem lock nut lightly clockwise until it just be-

•

comes hard to turn. Do not overtighten, or the steering

will be too tight.

Special Tool - Steering Stem Nut Wrench: 57001-1100 [A]

Torque - Steering Stem Nut: 15 N·m (1.5 kgf·m, 11 ft·lb)

Steering Stem Lock Nut: 4.9 N·m (0.5 kgf·m, 43

in·lb)

Install the front fork (see Suspension chapter).

•

STEERING 13-7

Steering Stem

NOTE

○Tighten the fork upper clamp bolts first, next the stem

head nut, last the fork lower clamp bolts.

Torque - Steering Stem Head Nut: 49 N·m (5.0 kgf·m, 36

ft·lb)

Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper):

20 N·m (2.0

kgf·m, 14.5 ft·lb)

Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower):

20 N·m (2.0

kgf·m, 14.5 ft·lb)

WARNING

Do not impede the handlebar turning by routing the

cables, harnesses and hoses improperly (see Gen-

eral Information chapter).

Steering Stem Bearing Lubrication

Remove the steering stem.

•

Using a high flash-point solvent, wash the upper and

•

lower ball bearings in the cages, and wipe the upper and

lower outer races, which are press-fitted into the frame

head pipe, clean off grease and dirt.

Visually check the outer races and the ball bearings.

•

Replace the bearing assemblies if they show wear or

damage.

Pack the upper and lower ball bearings [A] in the cages

•

with grease, and apply a light coat of grease to the upper

and lower outer races.

Install the steering stem, and adjust the steering.

•

Steering Stem Warp Inspection

Whenever the steering stem is removed, or if the steering

•

can not be adjusted for smooth action, check the steering

stem for straightness.

If the steering stem [A] is bent, replace the steering stem.

13-8 STEERING

Handlebar

Handlebar Removal

Remove:

•

Screws [A] and Windshield [B]

Remove:

•

Clutch Lever Assembly

Left Handlebar Switch Housing

Front Brake Master Cylinder

Right Handlebar Switch Housing

Throttle Case and Grip

Remove the handlebar bolts [A], and then pull out the

•

handlebars [B].

Handlebar Installation

Fit the pin [A] of the handlebar in the handlebar holder

•

recess [B].

Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of

•

handlebar bolts, and tighten the bolts.

Torque - Handlebar Bolts: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)

Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).

•

Handlebar Holder Removal

Raise the front wheel off the ground.

•

Loosen the handlebar holder bolts [A] and upper fork

•

clamp bolts [B].

Remove stem head nut [C] and steering stem head [D].

•

Remove handlebar holder position bolts [A] and handle-

•

bar holders [B].

14-2 FRAME

Exploded View

1. California Model

2. Front Fender Mounting Bolts

3. Footpeg Mounting Bolts

4. Footpeg Bracket Mounting Bolts

5. Sidestand Mounting Bolt

T1: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)

T2: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)

T3: 49 N·m (5.0 kgf·m, 36 ft·lb)

T4: 44 N·m (4.5 kgf·m, 33 ft·lb)

T5: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 43 ft·lb)

G: Apply grease.

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent

FRAME 14-3

Exploded View

14-4 FRAME

Exploded View

1. PN Model

2. Unitted States , Canada Models

PN: WVTA Approval Model with Pipe Catalytic Converter (Norway)

FRAME 14-5

Seats

Rear Seat Removal

Insert the ignition switch key into the seat lock [A], turning

•

the key counterclockwise, pulling up the rear of the seat

[B], and pulling the seat backward.

Rear Seat Installation

Slip the rear seat hooks [A] into the hollow-cubic bracket

•

[B] on the frame.

Insert the seat pin [C] into the latch hole [D].

•

Push down the rear part of the seat until the lock clicks.

•

Front Seat Removal

Remove:

•

Rear Seat (see Rear Seat Removal)

Mounting Bolt [A]

Set Bracket (rear) [B]

Remove the front seat [C] by pulling up the rear of it and

•

to the rear.

Front Seat Installation

Slip the front seat hook [A] under the brace [B] on the seat

•

bracket (front).

14-6 FRAME

Fairings

Lower Fairing Removal

Remove:

•

Screws [A] [B]

Allen Bolts [C]

Pull the lower front part of the lower fairing outward to

•

clear the stoppers [D].

Remove the lower fairing.

•

Remove the other side lower fairing in the same manner.

•

NOTE

○When removing the left and right lower fairings at the

same time, do not remove the screws [B] (both sides)

and stoppers [D].

Inner (Upper) Fairing Removal

Remove:

•

Screws [A]

Inner (Upper) Fairing [B]

Inner (Lower) Fairing Removal

Remove:

•

Lower Fairing (Left or Right)

Other Side Inner Fairing Screw [B]

Inner (Lower) Fairing [A]

Upper Fairing Removal

Remove:

•

Inner (Upper) Fairings

Spring Bands [A] (Left and Right)

Screws [B] (Left and Right)

FRAME 14-7

Fairings

Remove:

•

Rear View Mirrors [A]

Bolts [B]

Remove:

•

Air Vent Filter Hose [A]

Headlight/Turn Signal Light Lead Connector [B]

Upper Fairing

14-8 FRAME

Seat Covers

Seat Cover Removal

Remove:

•

Seats

Bolts and Grab Rails [A]

Screws and Seat Lock [B]

Screws [C] (Left and Right)

Pull the seat cover backward.

•

Seat Cover Installation

Set the seat cover [A], and insert the rivet [B] into the holes

•

in the seat cover and rear fender.

Push in the screw [C] into the rivet.

•

Install the grab rails and tighten the bolts.

•

Torque - Grab Rail Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)

Install the remove parts.

•

FRAME 14-9

Fenders

Front Fender Removal

Remove:

•

Brake Hose Clamps [A] (Left and Right)

Bolts [B] and Screws [C] (Left and Right)

Remove the front fender [D].

•

Rear Fender Removal

Remove:

•

Seats

Fuel Tank

Seat Cover

Junction Box

Starter Relay Assy

Turn Signal Relay

Battery

Rear Brake Reservoir Mounting Bolt

Tail/Brake Light Lead Connectors [A]

Clamp [B]

Tail/Brake Light [C]

Remove:

•

Turn Signal Light Lead Connectors [A]

Bolts [B]

Remove the rear fender rearward.

•

14-10 FRAME

Frame

Rear Frame Removal

Remove:

•

Rear Fender (see Rear Fender Removal)

Bolts [A] and IC Igniter Bracket [B]

Clamps for Main Harness

Frame Bolts and Nuts [C]

Rear Frame Installation

Tighten:

•

Torque - Rear Frame Bolts and Nuts: 44 N·m (4.5 kgf·m, 33

ft·lb)

Frame Inspection

Visually inspect the frame for cracks, dents, bending, or

•

warp.

If there is any damage to the frame, replace it.

WARNING

A repaired frame may fail in use, possibly causing

an accident. If the frame is bent, dented, cracked,

or warped, replace it.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-3

Exploded View

1. Crankshaft Sensor

2. IC Igniter

3. Stick Coils

T1: 5.9 N·m (0.60 kgf·m, 52 in·lb)

T2: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 104 in·lb)

T3: 13 N·m (1.3 kgf·m, 113 in·lb)

T4: 44 N·m (4.5 kgf·m, 33 ft·lb)

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

SS: Apply silicone sealant.

15-4 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Exploded View

1. Starter Lockout Switch

T5: 120 N·m (12 kgf·m, 87 ft·lb)

2. Oil Pressure Switch

T6: 1.0 N·m (0.1 kgf·m, 9 in·lb)

3. Front Brake Light Switch

T7: 1.5 N·m (0.15 kgf·m, 13 in·lb)

4. Neutral Switch

T8: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)

T1: 3.4 N·m (0.35 kgf·m, 30 in·lb)

G: Apply grease or engine oil.

T2: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 104 in·lb)

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

T3: 6.9 N·m (0.70 kgf·m, 61 in·lb)

M: Apply molybdenum disulfide grease.

T4: 15 N·m (1.5 kgf·m, 11 ft·lb)

SS: Apply silicone sealant.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-5

Exploded View

1. Turn Signal Relay

2. Water Temperature Sensor

3. Fan Switch

4. Side Stand Switch

5. Headlight Relays

6. Rear Brake Light Switch

T1: 7.8 N·m (0.80 kgf·m, 69 in·lb)

T2: 18 N·m (1.8 kgf·m, 13 ft·lb)

T3: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)

T4: 8.8 N·m (0.90 kgf·m, 78 in·lb)

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

SS: Apply silicone sealant.

15-6 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Wiring Diagram (United States and Canada) (ZX600-J1 ∼ J2)

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-7

Wiring Diagram (United States and Canada) (ZX600-J1 ∼ J2)

15-8 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Wiring Diagram (United States and Canada) (ZX600-J3 ∼)

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-9

Wiring Diagram (United States and Canada) (ZX600-J3 ∼)

15-10 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Wiring Diagram (Australia)

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-11

Wiring Diagram (Australia)

15-12 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Wiring Diagram (Other than United States, Canada, Australia, and Malaysia)

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-13

Wiring Diagram (Other than United States, Canada, Australia, and Malaysia)

15-14 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Wiring Diagram (Malaysia)

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-15

Wiring Diagram (Malaysia)

15-18 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Parts Location

1. Starter Lockout Switch

11. Neutral Switch

21. Oil Pressure Switch

2. Water Temperature Sen-

12. Side Stand Switch

22. Throttle Sensor

sor

13. Speed Sensor

23. Fuel Cut Valves (CAL, H

3. Stick Coils

14. Starter Relay and Main

Models)

4. Battery

Fuse

24. Headlight Relay

5. Junction Box

15. Turn Signal Relay

6. IC Igniter

16. Fuel Pump

CAL: California

7. Fuel Pump Relay

17. Front Brake Light Switch

H: WVTA Approval Model

8. Radiator Fan Switch

18. Rear Brake Light Switch

with Honeycomb Cat-

9. Alternator

19. Regulator/Rectifier

alytic Converter

10. Starter Motor

20. Crankshaft Sensor

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-19

Precautions

There are a number of important precautions that are

musts when servicing electrical systems. Learn and ob-

serve all the rules below.

○Do not reverse the battery cable connections. This will

burn out the diodes on the electrical parts.

○Always check battery condition before condemning other

parts of an electrical system A fully charged battery is a

must for conducting accurate electrical system tests.

○The electrical parts should never be struck sharply, as

with a hammer, or allowed to fall on a hard surface. Such

a shock to the parts can damage them.

○To prevent damage to electrical parts, do not disconnect

the battery cables or any other electrical connections

when the ignition switch is on, or while the engine is

running.

○Because of the large amount of current, never keep the

starter button pushed when the starter motor will not turn

over, or the current may burn out the starter motor wind-

ings.

○Do not use a meter illumination bulb rated for other than

voltage or wattage specified in the wiring diagram, as the

meter or gauge panel could be warped by excessive heat

radiated from the bulb.

○Take care not to short the leads that are directly con-

nected to the battery positive (+) terminal to the chassis

ground.

○Troubles may involve one or in some cases all items.

Never replace a defective part without determining what

CAUSED the failure. If the failure was caused by some

other item or items, they must be repaired or replaced, or

the new replacement will soon fail again.

○Make sure all connectors in the circuit are clean and tight,

and examine leads for signs of burning, fraying, etc. Poor

leads and bad connections will affect electrical system

operation.

○Measure coil and winding resistance when the part is cold

(at room temperature).

○Color Codes:

BK: Black

G: Green

P: Pink

BL: Blue

GY: Gray

PU: Purple

BR: Brown

LB: Light Blue

R: Red

CH: Chocolate

LG: Light Green

W: White

DG: Dark Green

O: Orange

Y: Yellow

○Electrical Connectors

Connectors [A]

15-20 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Precautions

Connectors [B]

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-21

Electrical Wiring

Wiring Inspection

Visually inspect the wiring for signs of burning, fraying,

•

etc.

If any wiring is poor, replace the damaged wiring.

Pull each connector [A] apart and inspect it for corrosion,

•

dirt, and damage.

If the connector is corroded or dirty, clean it carefully. If it

is damaged, replace it.

Check the wiring for continuity.

•

○Use the wiring diagram to find the ends of the lead which

is suspected of being a problem.

○Connect the hand tester between the ends of the leads.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

○Set the tester to the × 1 Ω range, and read the tester.

If the tester does not read 0 Ω, the lead is defective. Re-

place the lead or the wiring harness [B] if necessary.

15-22 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Battery

Battery Removal

Remove:

•

Seats (see Frame Chapter)

Front Seat Bracket [A] (Battery Holder)

Disconnect the negative (-) cable [B] and then positive

•

(+) cable [C].

CAUTION

Be sure to disconnect the negative (-) cable first.

Remove the battery.

•

Electrolyte Filling

CAUTION

Do not remove the aluminum seal sheet [A] sealing

the filler ports [B] until just before use.

Be sure to use the dedicated electrolyte container

for correct electrolyte volume.

Check to see that there is no peeling, tears or holes in the

•

seal sheet on the top of the battery.

Place the battery on a level surface.

•

Remove the seal sheet.

•

NOTE

○A battery whose seal sheet has any peeling, tears, or

holes, requires a refreshing charge (initial charge).

Take the electrolyte container out of the vinyl bag.

•

Detach the seal caps [A] from the container.

•

NOTE

○Do not discard the seal caps because it is used as the

battery plugs later.

○Do not peel back or pierce the seals [B] on the container.

Place the electrolyte container upside down aligning six

•

seals with the six battery filler ports.

Push the container down strongly enough to break the

•

seals. Now the electrolyte should start to flow into the

battery.

NOTE

○Do not tilt the container as the electrolyte flow may be

interrupted.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-23

Battery

Make sure air bubbles [A] are coming up from all six filler

•

ports.

○Leave the container this way for 5 minutes or longer.

NOTE

○If no air bubbles are coming up from a filler port, tap [B]

the bottom of the container two or three times. Never

remove the container from the battery.

CAUTION

Fill the electrolyte into battery until the container is

completely emptied.

Be certain that all the electrolyte has flowed out.

•

Tap the bottom the same way as above if there is any

•

electrolyte left in the container.

Now pull the container gently out of the battery.

•

Let the battery sit for 20 minutes. During this time, the

•

electrolyte permeates the special separators and the gas

generated by chemical reaction is released.

Fit the seal caps [A] tightly into the filler ports until the seal

•

cap is at the same level as the top of the battery.

NOTE

○Do not hammer. Press down evenly with both hands.

CAUTION

Once you install the seal caps after filling the bat-

tery, never remove it, nor add any water or elec-

trolyte.

Initial Charge

While a sealed battery can be used after only filling with electrolyte, a battery may not be able to

sufficiently move a starter motor to start an engine in the cases shown in the table below, where an

initial charge is required before use. However, if a battery shows a terminal voltage of higher than

12.8 V after 10 minutes of filling (Note 1), no initial charge is necessary.

Condition requiring initial charge

Charging method

At low temperatures (lower than 0°C)

0.9 A × 2 ∼ 3 hours

Battery has been stored in high temperature and humidity.

Seal has been removed, or broken - peeling, tear or hole.

Battery as old as 2 years or more after manufacture.

0.9 A × 15 ∼ 20 hours

Battery manufacturing date is printed on battery top.

Example)

12

10

93

T1

Day

Month

Year

Mfg. location

Note 1: Terminal voltage-To measure battery terminal voltage, use a digital voltmeter.

Precautions

1) No need of topping-up

No topping-up is necessary in this battery until it ends its life under normal use. Forcibly prying off the

seal cap to add water is very dangerous. Never do that.

2) Refreshing charge

If an engine will not start, a horn sounds weak, or lamps are dim, it indicates the battery has been

discharged. Give refresh charge for 5 to 10 hours with charge current shown in the specification

(see the this chapter).

15-24 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Battery

When a fast charge is inevitably required, do it following precisely the maximum charge current

and time conditions indicated on the battery.

CAUTION

This battery is designed to sustain no unusual deterioration if refresh-charged according

to the method specified above. However, the battery’s performance may be reduced no-

ticeably if charged under conditions other than given above.

Never remove the seal cap during refresh charge.

If by chance an excessive amount of gas is generated due to overcharging, the safety valve

operates to keep the battery safe.

3) When you do not use the motorcycle for months

Give a refresh charge before you store the motorcycle and store it with the negative cable re-

moved. Give a refresh charge once a month during storage.

4) Battery life

If the battery will not start the engine even after several refresh charges, the battery has ex-

ceeded its useful life. Replace it. (Provided, however, the vehicle’s starting system has no prob-

lem.)

WARNING

Keep the battery away from sparks and open flames during charging, since the battery

gives off an explosive gas mixture of hydrogen and oxygen. When using a battery charger,

connect the battery to the charger before turning on the charger. This procedure prevents

sparks at the battery terminals which could ignite any battery gases.

No fire should be drawn near the battery, or no terminals should have the tightening loos-

ened.

The electrolyte contains sulfuric acid. Be careful not to have it touch your skin or eyes. If

touched, wash it off with liberal amount of water. Get medical attention if severe.

Interchange

A sealed battery can fully display its performance only when combined with a proper vehicle electric

system. Therefore, replace a sealed battery only on a motorcycle which was originally equipped with

a sealed battery.

Be careful, if a sealed battery is installed on a motorcycle which had an ordinary battery as original

equipment, the sealed battery’s life will be shortened.

Charging Condition Inspection

Battery charging condition can be checked by measuring

battery terminal voltage.

Remove the seats (see Frame chapter).

•

Disconnect the battery cables.

•

CAUTION

Be sure to disconnect the negative (-) cable first.

Measure the battery terminal voltage.

•

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-25

Battery

NOTE

○Measure with a digital voltmeter [A] which can be read

to one decimal place voltage.

If the reading is below the specified, refreshing charge is

required.

Battery Terminal Voltage

Standard:

12.8 V or more

Refreshing Charge

Remove the battery [A].

•

Do refresh-charge by following method according to the

•

battery terminal voltage.

WARNING

This battery is sealed type. Never remove seal caps

[B] even at charging. Never add water. Charge with

current and time as stated below.

Terminal Voltage: 11.5 ∼ less than 12.8 V

Standard Charge

0.9 A × 5 ∼ 10 h (see following chart)

Quick Charge

4.0 A × 1.0 h

CAUTION

If possible, do not quick charge. If the quick charge

is done due to unavoidable circumstances, do stan-

dard charge later on.

Terminal Voltage: less than 11.5 V

Charging Method: 0.9 A × 20 h

NOTE

○If the current does not flow when charging, raise the

voltage initially (25 V as maximum), and let down the

voltage to charge when the current starts to flow as a

yardstick. If ammeter shows no change in current after

5 minutes, you need a new battery. The current, if it can

flow into the battery, tends to become excessive. Adjust

the voltage as often as possible to keep the current at

standard value (0.9 A).

Battery [A]

Battery Charger [B]

Standard Value [C]

Current Starts to flow [D]

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-27

Charging System

Alternator Cover Removal

Remove:

•

Left Lower Fairing (see Frame chapter)

Coolant Reserve Tank [A]

Fuel Tank (see Fuel System chapter)

Alternator Lead Connector [B]

Place a suitable container under the alternator cover [C],

•

and remove the cover.

Alternator Cover Installation

Apply silicone sealant to the alternator lead grommet and

•

crankcase halves mating surface [A] on the front and rear

sides of the cover mount.

Sealant - Kawasaki Bond (Silicone Sealant): 56019-120

Check that knock pins [B] are in place on the crankcase.

•

Install a new gasket and the alternator cover.

•

Tighten:

•

Torque - Alternator Cover Bolts:

12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 104

in·lb)

Stator Coil Removal

Remove:

•

Alternator Cover (see Alternator Cover Removal)

Holding Plate Bolts [A] and Plate

Alternator Lead Grommet [B]

Stator Coil Bolts [C]

Remove the stator coil [D] from the alternator cover.

•

Stator Coil Installation

Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of

•

the stator coil bolts and tighten them.

Torque - Stator Coil Bolts: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 104 in·lb)

Apply silicone sealant to the circumference of the alter-

•

nator lead grommet, and fit the grommet into the notch of

the cover securely.

Sealant - Kawasaki Bond (Silicone Sealant): 56019-120

Secure the alternator lead with a holding plate, and apply

•

a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of the plate

bolts and tighten them.

Torque - Alternator Lead Holding Plate Bolts: 6.9 N·m (0.70

kgf·m, 62 in·lb)

Install the alternator cover (see Alternator Cover Installa-

•

tion).

15-28 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Charging System

Alternator Rotor Removal

Remove:

•

Alternator Cover (see Alternator Cover Removal)

Starter Idle Gear and Shaft

Wipe oil off the outer circumference of the rotor.

•

Hold the alternator rotor steady with the flywheel holder

•

[A], and remove the rotor bolt [B].

Special Tool - Flywheel Holder: 57001-1313

Using the flywheel puller [A], remove the alternator rotor

•

from the crankshaft.

Special Tools - Flywheel Puller Assembly, M38 × 1.5/M35 ×

1.5: 57001-1405

CAUTION

Do not attempt to strike the alternator rotor itself.

Striking the rotor can cause the magnets to lose

their magnetism.

Alternator Rotor Installation

Using a cleaning fluid, clean off any oil or dirt on the fol-

•

lowing portions and dry them with a clean cloth.

[A] Crankshaft Tapered Portion

[B] Alternator Rotor Tapered Portion

Apply a thin coat of molybdenum disulfide grease to the

•

crankshaft [C].

Install the starter gear [A], and washer [B].

•

Again, clean the crankshaft tapered portion [C] and dry

•

there.

Install the alternator rotor [A] while turning [B] it counter-

•

clockwise.

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