Content      ..      1      2      3      ..

Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R Motorcycle. Service Manual (2001-2002 year) - page 2

ENGINE TOP END 4-15

Camshaft, Camshaft Chain

Camshaft Chain Removal

Split the crankcase (see Crankshaft/Transmission chap-

•

ter).

Remove the camshaft chain [A] from the crankshaft

•

sprocket.

4-16 ENGINE TOP END

Cylinder Head

Cylinder Compression Measurement

NOTE

○Use the battery which is fully charged.

Warm up the engine thoroughly.

•

Stop the engine.

•

Remove:

•

Seats (see Frame chapter)

Fuel Tank (see Fuel System chapter)

Air Cleaner Housing (see Fuel System chapter)

Stick Coils

Spark Plugs

Special Tool - Spark Plug Wrench, Hex 16: 57001-1262

Attach the compression gauge [A] and adapter [B] firmly

•

into the spark plug hole.

○Using the starter motor, turn the engine over with the throt-

tle fully open until the compression gauge stops rising; the

compression is the highest reading obtainable.

Special Tool - Compression Gauge, 20 kgf/cm²: 57001-221

Compression Gauge Adapter, M10 × 1.0:

57001-1317

Cylinder Compression

Usable Range:

950 ∼ 1450 kPa (9.7 ∼ 14.8 kgf/cm², 138

∼ 210 psi) @350 r/min (rpm)

Repeat the measurement for the other cylinders.

•

Install the spark plugs and tighten them.

•

Torque - Spark Plugs: 13 N·m (1.3 kgf·m, 113 in·lb)

The following table should be consulted if the obtainable compression reading is not within the us-

able range.

Problem

Diagnosis

Remedy (Action)

Cylinder

Carbon accumulation on piston and in

Remove the carbon deposits

compression is

combustion chamber possibly due to

and replace damaged parts if

higher than usable

damaged valve stem oil seal and/or

necessary.

range

damaged piston oil rings (This may be

indicated by white exhaust smoke).

Incorrect cylinder head gasket thickness.

Replace the gasket with a

standard part.

Cylinder

Gas leakage around cylinder head

Replace damaged gasket and

compression is

check cylinder head warp.

lower than usable

Bad condition of valve seating

Repair if necessary.

range

Incorrect valve clearance.

Adjust the valve clearance.

Incorrect piston/cylinder clearance

Replace the piston and/or cylinder

Piston seizure.

Inspect the cylinder and

replace/repair the cylinder

and/or piston as necessary.

Bad condition of piston ring and/or piston

Replace the piston and/or the

ring grooves

piston rings.

ENGINE TOP END 4-17

Cylinder Head

Cylinder Head Removal

Drain the coolant (see Cooling System chapter).

•

Remove:

•

Cylinder Head Cover (see Cylinder Head Cover Re-

moval)

Camshaft Chain Tensioner (see Camshaft Chain Ten-

sioner Removal)

Camshafts (see Camshaft Removal)

Water Temperature Sensor Lead Connector [A]

Oil Hose Banjo Bolt [B]

Remove the 6 mm cylinder head bolts [A], and then the

•

10 mm cylinder head bolts [B].

Take off the cylinder head.

•

Cylinder Head Installation

NOTE

○The camshaft cap is machined with the cylinder head,

so if a new cylinder head is installed, use the cap that

is supplied with the new head.

Install a new cylinder head gasket and knock pins.

•

Apply engine oil to both sides [A] of the cylinder head bolt

•

washers [B].

Tighten the 10 mm cylinder head bolts following the tight-

•

ening sequence [1 ∼ 10].

Torque - Cylinder Head Bolts (10mm)

First: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 14.5 ft·lb)

Final (Used Bolts): 49 N·m (5.0 kgf·m, 36 ft·lb)

Tighten the 6 mm cylinder head bolts [11].

•

Torque - Cylinder Head Bolts (6 mm): 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m,

104 in·lb)

Tighten the oil hose banjo bolt.

•

Torque - Oil Hose Banjo Bolt: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18.0 ft·lb)

4-18 ENGINE TOP END

Cylinder Head

Cylinder Head Warp Inspection

Lay a straightedge across the lower surface of the cylinder

•

head at several positions.

Use a thickness gauge [A] to measure the space between

•

the straightedge [B] and the head.

Cylinder Head Warp

Standard:

- - -

Service Limit:

0.05 mm (0.002 in.)

If the cylinder head is warped more than the service limit,

replace it.

If the cylinder head is warped less than the service limit,

repair the head by rubbing the lower surface on emery

paper secured to a surface plate (first No. 200, then No.

400).

ENGINE TOP END 4-19

Valves

Valve Clearance Inspection

NOTE

○Valve clearance must be checked and adjusted when

the engine is cold (at room temperature).

Remove:

•

Lower Fairings (see Frame chapter)

Crankshaft Sensor Cover

Cylinder Head Cover (see Cylinder Head Cover Re-

moval)

Position the crankshaft at 1,4 piston TDC.

•

TDC Mark [A] for #1, 4 Pistons

Timing Mark [B]

Using a thickness gauge [A], measure the valve clearance

•

between the cam and the valve lifter.

Valve Clearance

Standard:

IN

0.11∼ 0.19 mm (0.0043 ∼ 0.0075 in.)

EX

0.22 ∼ 0.31 mm (0.0087 ∼ 0.0122 in.)

○When positioning #4 piston TDC at the end of the

compression stroke:

Inlet valve clearance of #2 and #4 cylinders

Exhaust valve clearance of #3 and #4 cylinders

Measuring Valve [A]

○When positioning #1 piston TDC at the end of the

compression stroke:

Inlet valve clearance of #1 and #3 cylinders

Exhaust valve clearance of #1 and #2 cylinders

Measuring Valve [A]

If the valve clearance is not within the specified range,

first record the clearance, and then adjust it.

ENGINE TOP END 4-23

Valves

Valve Removal

Remove the cylinder head (see Cylinder Head Removal).

•

Remove the valve lifter and shim.

•

○Mark and record the valve lifter and shim locations so they

can be installed in their original positions.

Using the valve spring compressor assembly, remove the

•

valve.

Special Tools - Valve Spring Compressor Assembly: 57001

-241 [A]

Valve Spring Compressor Adapter,

22:

57001-1202 [B]

Valve Spring Compressor Adapter,

20:

57001-1154

Valve Installation

Replace the oil seal with a new one.

•

Apply a thin coat of molybdenum disulfide grease to the

•

valve stem before valve installation.

Install the springs so that the closed coil end faces down-

•

wards.

[B] Valve Stem

[C] Oil Seal

[D] Spring Seat

[E] Closed Coil End

[F] Exhaust Valve Springs

[G] Retainer

[H] Split Keepers

○Dual springs [A] are used for the inlet valve.

Valve Guide Removal

Remove:

•

Valve (see Valve Removal)

Oil Seal

Spring Seat

Heat the area around the valve guide to 120 ∼ 150°C (248

•

∼ 302 °F), and hammer lightly on the valve guide arbor [A]

to remove the guide from the top of the head.

CAUTION

Do not heat the cylinder head with a torch. This will

warp the cylinder head. Soak the cylinder head in

oil and heat the oil.

Special Tool - Valve Guide Arbor,

4: 57001-1273

4-24 ENGINE TOP END

Valves

Valve Guide Installation

Apply oil to the valve guide outer surface before installa-

•

tion.

Heat the area around the valve guide hole to about 120 ∼

•

150 °C (248 ∼ 302 °F).

Drive the valve guide in from the top of the head using the

•

valve guide arbor. The flange stops the guide from going

in too far.

Special Tool - Valve Guide Arbor,

4: 57001-1273

Wait until the cylinder head cools down and then ream the

•

valve guide with the valve guide reamer [A] even if the old

guide is reused.

○Turn the reamer in a clockwise direction until the reamer

turns freely in the guide. Never turn the reamer counter-

clockwise or it will be dulled.

○Once the guides are reamed they must be cleaned thor-

oughly.

Special Tool - Valve Guide Reamer,

4: 57001-1274

Valve-to-Guide Clearance Measurement (Wobble

Method)

If a small bore gauge is not available, inspect the valve

guide wear by measuring the valve to valve guide clearance

with the wobble method as indicated below.

Insert a new valve [A] into the guide [B] and set a dial

•

gauge against the stem perpendicular to it as close as

possible to the cylinder head mating surface.

Move the stem back and forth [C] to measure valve/valve

•

guide clearance.

Repeat the measurement in a direction at a right angle to

•

the first.

If the reading exceeds the service limit, replace the guide.

NOTE

○The reading is not actual valve/valve guide clearance

because the measuring point is above the guide.

Valve/Valve Guide Clearance (Wobble Method)

Standard:

Inlet

0.03 ∼ 0.12 mm (0.0012 ∼ 0.0047 in.)

Exhaust

0.10 ∼ 0.18 mm (0.004 ∼ 0.007 in.)

Service Limit:

Inlet

0.29 mm (0.011 in.)

Exhaust

0.35 mm (0.014 in.)

ENGINE TOP END 4-25

Valves

Valve Seat Inspection

Remove the valve (see Valve Removal).

•

Check the valve seating surface [A] between the valve [B]

•

and valve seat [C].

○Measure the outside diameter [D] of the seating pattern

on the valve seat.

If the outside diameter is too large or too small, repair the

seat (see Seat Repair).

Valve Seating Surface Outside Diameter

Standard:

Inlet

26.4 ∼ 26.6 mm (1.039 ∼ 1.047 in.)

Exhaust

22.1 ∼ 22.3 mm (0.870 ∼ 0.878 in.)

○Measure the seat width [E] of the portion where there is

no build-up carbon (white portion) of the valve seat with a

vernier caliper.

Good [F]

If the width is too wide [G], too narrow [H] or uneven [J],

repair the seat (see Valve Seat Repair).

Valve Seating Surface Width

Standard:

Inlet, Exhaust

0.5 ∼ 1.0 mm (0.02 ∼ 0.04 in.)

Valve Seat Repair

Repair the valve seat with the valve seat cutters [A].

•

Special Tool - Valve Seat Cutter Holder,

4:

57001-1275

[B]

Valve Seat Cutter Holder Bar: 57001-1128

[C]

[For Inlet Valve Seat]

Valve Seat Cutter, 45° -

27.5: 57001-1114

Valve Seat Cutter, 32° -

28: 57001-1119

Valve Seat Cutter, 60° -

30: 57001-1123

[For Exhaust Valve Seat]

Valve Seat Cutter, 45° -

32: 57001-1115

Valve Seat Cutter, 32° -

30: 57001-1120

Valve Seat Cutter, 60° -

33: 57001-1334

If the manufacturer’s instructions are not available, use

the following procedure.

4-26 ENGINE TOP END

Valves

Seat Cutter Operation Care

1. This valve seat cutter is developed to grind the valve for

repair. Therefore the cutter must not be used for other

purposes than seat repair.

2. Do not drop or shock the valve seat cutter, or the dia-

mond particles may fall off.

3. Do not fail to apply engine oil to the valve seat cutter

before grinding the seat surface. Also wash off ground

particles sticking to the cutter with washing oil.

NOTE

○Do not use a wire brush to remove the metal particles

from the cutter. It will take off the diamond particles.

4. Setting the valve seat cutter holder in position, operate

the cutter in one hand. Do not apply too much force to

the diamond portion.

NOTE

○Prior to grinding, apply engine oil to the cutter and dur-

ing the operation, wash off any ground particles sticking

to the cutter with washing oil.

5. After use, wash it with washing oil and apply thin layer

of engine oil before storing.

Marks Stamped on the Cutter

The marks stamped on the back of the cutter [A] represent

the following.

60°

Cutter angle [B]

37.5

....................... Outer diameter of cutter [C]

Operating Procedures

Clean the seat area carefully.

•

Coat the seat with machinist’s dye.

•

Fit a 45° cutter into the holder and slide it into the valve

•

guide.

Press down lightly on the handle and turn it right or left.

•

Grind the seating surface only until it is smooth.

CAUTION

Do not grind the seat too much. Overgrinding will

reduce valve clearance by sinking the valve into the

head. If the valve sinks too far into the head, it will

be impossible to adjust the clearance, and the cylin-

der head must be replaced.

Widened Width [A] of engagement by machining with

45° cutter

Ground Volume [B] by 32° cutter

32° [C]

Correct Width [D]

Ground Volume [E] by 60° cutter

60° [F]

ENGINE TOP END 4-27

Valves

Measure the outside diameter of the seating surface with

•

a vernier caliper.

If the outside diameter of the seating surface is too small,

repeat the 45° grind [A] until the diameter is within the

specified range.

Original Seating Surface [B]

NOTE

○Remove all pittings of flaws from 45° ground surface.

○After grinding with 45° cutter, apply thin coat of machin-

ist’s dye to seating surface. This makes seating surface

distinct and 32° and 60° grinding operation easier.

○When the valve guide is replaced, be sure to grind with

45° cutter for centering and good contact.

If the outside diameter of the seating surface is too large,

make the 32° grind described below.

If the outside diameter [A] of the seating surface is within

the specified range, measure the seat width as described

below.

Grind the seat at a 32° angle [B] until the seat outside

•

diameter is within the specified range.

○To make the 32° grind, fit a 32° cutter into the holder, and

slide it into the valve guide.

○Turn the holder one turn at a time while pressing down

very lightly. Check the seat after each turn.

CAUTION

The

32° cutter removes material very quickly.

Check the seat outside diameter frequently to pre-

vent overgrinding.

○After making the 32° grind, return to the seat outside di-

ameter measurement step above.

To measure the seat width, use a vernier caliper to mea-

•

sure the width of the 45° angle portion of the seat at sev-

eral places around the seat.

If the seat width is too narrow, repeat the 45° grind until

the seat is slightly too wide, and then return to the seat

outside diameter measurement step above.

If the seat width is too wide, make the 60° [A] grind de-

scribed below.

If the seat width is within the specified range, lap the valve

to the seat as described below.

Grind the seat at a 60° angle until the seat width is within

•

the specified range.

○To make the 60° grind, fit 60° cutter into the holder, and

slide it into the valve guide.

○Turn the holder, while pressing down lightly.

○After making the 60° grind, return to the seat width mea-

surement step above.

Correct Width [B]

ENGINE TOP END 4-29

Valves

4-30 ENGINE TOP END

Cylinder, Pistons

Cylinder Removal

Remove:

•

Engine (see Engine Removal/Installation chapter)

Cylinder Head (see Cylinder Head Removal)

Water Hoses [A]

Rear Camshaft Chain Guide and Bolt

Remove the cylinder.

•

Cylinder Installation

NOTE

○If a new cylinder is used, use new piston ring.

Install the pins [A] and new cylinder gasket.

•

Apply engine oil to the cylinder bore.

•

Prepare two auxiliary head bolts with their head cut.

•

Install the two bolts [B] diagonally in the crankcase.

•

The piston ring openings must be positioned as shown in

•

the figure. The openings of the oil ring steel rails must be

about 30-40° of angle from the opening of the top ring.

[A] Top Ring

[B] Second Ring

[C] Oil Ring Steel Rails

[D] Oil Ring Expander

[E] Hollow

Position the crankshaft so that all the piston heads are

•

almost level.

Install the cylinder block [A].

•

Auxiliary Head Bolts [B]

Pistons [C]

Insert the piston rings with your thumbs.

•

Piston Removal

Remove the cylinder (see Cylinder Removal).

•

Place a clean cloth under the pistons and remove the pis-

•

ton pin snap ring [A] from the outside of each piston.

ENGINE TOP END 4-31

Cylinder, Pistons

Remove the piston pins.

•

Special Tool - Piston Pin Puller Assembly: 57001-910 [A]

Carefully spread the ring opening with your thumbs and

•

then push up on the opposite side of the ring [A] to remove

it.

Remove the 3-piece oil ring with your thumbs in the same

•

manner.

Piston Installation

NOTE

○If a new piston is used, use new piston ring.

Install the piston with its marking hollow facing forward.

•

Fit a new piston pin snap ring into the side of the piston

•

so that the ring opening [A] does not coincide with the slit

[B] of the piston pin hole.

○When installing the piston pin snap ring, compress it only

enough to install it and no more.

CAUTION

Do not reuse snap rings, as removal weakens and

deforms them.

They could fall out and score the cylinder wall.

Install the oil ring expander [A] in the bottom piston ring

•

groove so the ends [B] butt together.

Install the oil ring steel rails, one above the expander and

•

one below it.

○Spread the rail with your thumbs, but only enough to fit

the rail over the piston.

○Release the rail into the bottom piston ring groove.

NOTE

○The oil ring rails have no “top” or “bottom”.

4-32 ENGINE TOP END

Cylinder, Pistons

Do not mix up the top and second ring.

•

Install the top ring [A] so that the "R" mark [B] faces up.

•

○Install the second ring [C] so that the "RN" mark [D] faces

up.

Cylinder Wear Inspection

Since there is a difference in cylinder wear in different di-

•

rections, take a side-to-side and a front-to-back measure-

ment at each of the two locations (total of four measure-

ments) shown in the figure.

If any of the cylinder inside diameter measurements ex-

ceeds the service limit, replace the cylinder.

[A] 10 mm (0.39 in.)

[B] 60 mm (2.36 in.)

Cylinder Inside Diameter

Standard:

65.960 ∼ 65.972 mm (2.5968 ∼ 2.5973 in.)

Service Limit: 66.06 mm (2.601 in.)

Piston Wear Inspection

Measure the outside diameter [A] of each piston 5 mm

•

(0.20 in.) [B] up from the bottom of the piston at a right

angle to the direction of the piston pin.

If the measurement is under service limit, replace the pis-

ton.

Piston Diameter

Standard:

65.935 ∼ 65.950 mm (2.5957 ∼ 2.5965 in.)

Service Limit: 65.78 mm (2.590 in.)

Piston Ring, Piston Ring Groove Wear Inspection

Check for uneven groove wear by inspecting the ring seat-

•

ing.

The rings should fit perfectly parallel to groove surfaces.

If not, replace the piston and all the piston rings.

With the piston rings in their grooves, make several mea-

•

surements with a thickness gauge [A] to determine piston

ring/groove clearance.

Piston Ring/Groove Clearance

Standard:

Top

0.05 ∼ 0.09 mm (0.0020 ∼ 0.0035 in.)

Second

0.03 ∼ 0.07 mm (0.0012 ∼ 0.0028 in.)

Service Limit:

Top

0.19 mm (0.0075 in.)

Second

0.17 mm (0.0067 in.)

ENGINE TOP END 4-33

Cylinder, Pistons

Piston Ring Groove Width Inspection

Measure the piston ring groove width.

•

○Use a vernier caliper at several points around the piston.

Piston Ring/Groove Width

Standard:

Top

0.84 ∼ 0.86 mm (0.0331 ∼ 0.0339 in.)

Second

0.82 ∼ 0.84 mm (0.0323 ∼ 0.0331 in.)

Service Limit:

Top

0.94 mm (0.037 in.)

Second

0.92 mm (0.036 in.)

If the width of any of the two grooves is wider than the

service limit at any point, replace the piston.

Piston Ring Thickness Inspection

Measure the piston ring thickness.

•

○Use the micrometer to measure at several points around

the ring.

Piston Ring Thickness

Standard:

Top

0.77 ∼ 0.79 mm (0.0303 ∼ 0.0311 in.)

Second

0.77 ∼ 0.79 mm (0.0303 ∼ 0.0311 in.)

Service Limit:

Top

0.70 mm (0.028 in.)

Second

0.70 mm (0.028 in.)

If any of the measurements is less than the service limit

on either of the rings, replace all the rings.

NOTE

○When using new rings in a used piston, check for un-

even groove wear. The rings should fit perfectly parallel

to the groove sides. If not, replace the piston.

Piston Ring End Gap Inspection

Place the piston ring [A] inside the cylinder, using the pis-

•

ton to locate the ring squarely in place. Set it close to the

bottom of the cylinder, where cylinder wear is low.

Measure the gap [B] between the ends of the ring with a

•

thickness gauge.

Piston Ring End Gap

Standard:

Top

0.15 ∼ 0.3 mm (0.0059 ∼ 0.0118 in.)

Second

0.30 ∼ 0.45 mm (0.0118 ∼ 0.0177 in.)

Service Limit:

Top

0.6 mm (0.024 in.)

Second

0.8 mm (0.031 in.)

If the end gap of either ring is greater than the service

limit, replace all the rings.

4-34 ENGINE TOP END

Carburetor Holder

Carburetor Holder Installation

Be sure to install the O-rings [A].

•

Tighten the carburetor holder bolts [B].

•

Tighten the #1,3 right carburetor holder bolts with clamp

•

[C] (use of clamps for California Model only).

Torque - Carburetor Holder Bolts: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 104

in·lb)

ENGINE TOP END 4-35

Muffler

WARNING

To avoid a serious burn, do not remove the mufflers

when the engine is still hot. Wait until the mufflers

cool down.

Muffler and Exhaust Pipe Removal

Remove:

•

Lower Fairings (see Frame chapter)

Exhaust Pipe Mounting Bolt [A]

Remove the muffler mounting nut [A].

•

Remove the radiator mount bolt [A].

•

Loosen the radiator bolts [B].

•

Move the bottom of the radiator toward the front [C], and

•

then tighten the radiator bolts [B].

Remove:

•

Exhaust Pipe Holder Nuts [D]

Pull the muffler mounting bolt and remove the muffler as-

•

sembly.

○When removing the exhaust pipe holder, don’t hit the ra-

diator.

Muffler and Exhaust Pipe Installation

Replace the exhaust pipe holder gaskets with new ones.

•

Thoroughly warm up the engine, wait until the engine

•

cools down, and retighten all the bolts and nuts.

Tighten the exhaust pipe holder nuts.

•

Tighten:

•

Torque - Exhaust Pipe Mounting Bolt: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m,

25 ft·lb)

4-36 ENGINE TOP END

Muffler

Muffler Body Removal

Remove:

•

Exhaust Pipe Connecting Nuts [A]

Muffler Mounting Bolt, Nut [B] and Washer

Pull the muffler body [C] backward.

Muffler Body Installation

Replacing the muffler body gasket with new one.

•

Tighten:

•

Torque - Muffler Body and Exhaust Pipe Connecting Nuts:

45 N·m (4.5 kgf·m, 33 ft·lb)

Thoroughly warm up the engine, wait until the engine

•

cools down, and retighten all the bolts and nuts.

5-2 CLUTCH

Exploded View

1. Clutch Lever Pivot Nut

T1: 5.9 N·m (0.60 kgf·m, 52 in·lb)

T2: 8.8 N·m (0.90 kgf·m, 78 in·lb)

T3: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 104 in·lb)

T4: 137 N·m (14 kgf·m, 101 ft·lb)

T5: 1.5 N·m (0.15 kgf·m, 13 in·lb) or Hand-Tight

CL: Apply cable lubricant.

EO: Apply engine oil.

G: Apply grease.

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

M: Apply molybdenum disulfide grease.

R: Replacement Parts

W: Apply water.

5-4 CLUTCH

Clutch Lever and Cable

Clutch Lever Free Play Inspection

Pull the clutch lever just enough to take up the free play

•

[A].

Measure the gap between the lever and the lever holder.

•

If the gap is too wide, the clutch may not release fully. If

the gap is too narrow, the clutch may not engage fully. In

either case, adjust it.

Clutch Lever Free Play

Standard:

2 ∼ 3 mm (0.08 ∼ 0.12 in.)

Clutch Lever Free Play Adjustment

WARNING

To avoid a serious burn, never touch the engine or

exhaust pipe during clutch adjustment.

Turn the adjuster [A] so that 5 ∼ 6 mm (0.20 ∼ 0.24 in.) [B]

•

of threads are visible.

Slide the dust cover [A] at the clutch cable lower end out

•

of place.

Loosen both adjusting nuts [B] at the clutch cover as far

•

as they will go.

Pull the clutch outer cable [C] tight and tighten the adjust-

•

ing nuts against the bracket [D].

Slip the rubber dust cover back onto place.

•

Turn the adjuster at the clutch lever until the free play is

•

correct.

Push the release lever [A] toward the front of the motor-

•

cycle until it becomes hard to turn.

○At this time, the release lever should have the proper an-

gle shown.

If the angle is wrong, check the clutch and release parts

for wear.

WARNING

Be sure that the outer cable end at the clutch lever

is fully seated in the adjuster at the clutch lever, or

it could slip into place later, creating enough cable

play to prevent clutch disengagement.

After the adjustment, start the engine and check that the

•

clutch does not slip and that it releases properly.

CLUTCH 5-5

Clutch Lever and Cable

Clutch Cable Removal

Remove the right lower fairing (see frame chapter).

•

Slide the dust cover at the clutch cable lower end out of

•

place.

Loosen the nuts, and slide the lower end of the clutch

•

cable to give the cable plenty of play.

Screw in the adjuster.

•

Line up the slots [A] in the clutch lever, and adjuster [B],

•

and then free the cable from the lever.

Free the clutch inner cable tip from the clutch release

•

lever.

Push the release lever toward the front of the motorcycle

•

and tape the release lever to the clutch cover to prevent

the release shaft from falling out.

Pull the clutch cable out of the frame.

•

Clutch Cable Installation

Run the clutch cable correctly (see General Information

•

chapter).

Adjust the clutch cable (see Lever Free Play Adjustment).

•

Clutch Cable Lubrication

Whenever the clutch cable is removed, lubricate the

clutch cable as follows.

Apply a thin coating of grease to the cable upper and

•

lower ends.

Lubricate the cable with a penetrating rust inhibitor.

•

Clutch Lever Installation

Install the clutch lever so that the mating surface [A] of

•

the switch housing is aligned with the mating surface [B]

of the clutch lever clamp.

5-6 CLUTCH

Clutch Cover

Clutch Cover Removal

Remove:

•

Engine Oil (drain, see Engine Lubrication System chap-

ter)

Right Lower Fairing (see Frame chapter)

Oil Hose

Clutch Cable Lower End [A]

Clutch Cover Mounting Bolts [B]

Turn the release lever [A] toward the rear as shown, and

•

remove the clutch cover [B].

[C] about 90°

Clutch Cover Installation

Apply silicone sealant to the area [A] where the mating

•

surface of the crankcase touches the clutch cover gasket.

Sealant - Kawasaki Bond (Silicone Sealant): 56019-120

Replace the cover gasket with a new one.

•

Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of

•

the two clutch cover bolts [B].

Tighten the cover bolts.

•

Torque - Clutch Cover Bolts: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 104 in·lb)

Clutch Release Shaft Removal

CAUTION

Do not remove the clutch release lever and shaft

assembly unless it is absolutely necessary. If re-

moved, the oil seal replacement may be required.

Remove the clutch cover (see Clutch Cover Removal).

•

Pull the lever and shaft assembly out of the clutch cover.

•

Clutch Release Shaft Installation

Apply high-temperature grease to the oil seal lips on the

•

upper ridge of the clutch cover.

Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the clutch release

•

shaft.

Insert the clutch release shaft straight into the upper hole

•

of the clutch cover.

CAUTION

When inserting the clutch release shaft, be careful

not to remove the spring of the oil seal.

CLUTCH 5-7

Clutch

Clutch Removal

Remove:

•

Engine Oil (drain, see Engine Lubrication System chap-

ter)

Right Lower Fairing (see Frame chapter)

Clutch Cover (see Clutch Cover Removal)

Clutch Spring Bolts [A]

Clutch Springs

Clutch Spring Plate [B] (with thrust bearing and pusher

[C], spring and washer)

Friction Plates, Steel Plates

Spring, Spring Seat

Clutch Hub Nut [A]

○Holding the clutch hub [B], remove the nut.

Special Tool - Clutch Holder: 57001-1243 [C]

Remove:

•

Clutch Hub

Using the two 4 mm screws [A], pull out the sleeve [B],

•

needle bearing [C] and clutch housing [D].

Remove the spacer.

•

Clutch Installation

Inspect the clutch plate assembly length (see Clutch Plate

•

Assembly Inspection).

Install the following parts on the drive shaft.

•

[A] Spacer

[B] Sleeve

[C] Needle Bearing

[D] Clutch Housing

[E] Spacer

[F] Clutch Hub

[G] Washer

[H] Nut

5-8 CLUTCH

Clutch

○Install the spacer [A] so that the stepped side [B] faces

inward.

○Install the washer [A] so that the OUT SIDE mark faces

outward.

○Replace the clutch hub nut with a new one.

○Holding the clutch hub, tighten the clutch hub nut.

Special Tool - Clutch Holder: 57001-1243

Torque - Clutch Hub Nut: 137 N·m (14 kgf·m, 101 ft·lb)

Install the spring seat [A] and spring [B] as shown.

•

[C] Clutch Hub

Install the friction plates and steel plates, starting with a

•

friction plate and alternating them.

CAUTION

If new dry friction plates and steel plates are in-

stalled, apply engine oil to the surfaces of each

plate to avoid clutch plate seizure.

○Install the last friction plate [A] fitting the tangs in the

grooves in the housing as shown.

CLUTCH 5-9

Clutch

Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the pusher end

•

[A] and install the bearing [B], pusher [C] spring [D] and

washer [E] in the clutch spring plate [F].

Install the clutch spring plate and spring, and tighten the

•

clutch spring bolts.

Torque - Clutch Spring Bolts: 8.8 N·m (0.90 kgf·m, 78 in·lb)

Install the clutch cover (see Clutch Cover Installation).

•

Clutch Plate Assembly Inspection

Inspect the friction plate thickness (see Clutch Plate,

•

Wear, Damage Inspection).

Measure the length [A] of the clutch plate assembly as

•

shown.

○Assemble:

Clutch Hub [B]

Spring Seat [C]

Spring [D]

Friction Plate [E]

Steel Plte [F]

Spring Plate [G]

Springs [H]

Spring Holders [I]

Spring Bolts [J]

○Tighten:

Torque - Clutch Spring Bolts: 8.8 N·m (0.90 kgf·m, 78 in·lb)

Clutch Plate Assembly

Standard:

37.7 ∼ 38.3 mm (1.48 ∼ 1.51 in.)

If the length is not within the specified range, adjust the

length (see Clutch Plate Assembly Adjustment).

5-10 CLUTCH

Clutch

Clutch Plate Assembly Adjustment

Inspect the clutch plate assembly length, and then re-

•

place the steel plate(s) which brings the length within the

specified range.

○Remove:

Spring Bolts

Spring Holders

Springs

Spring Plate

Replace the following steel plate(s).

•

Part No.

Thickness

13089-1126

1.4 mm (0.055 in.)

13089-013

1.6 mm (0.063 in.) (STD)

13089-1073

2.0 mm (0.08 in.)

NOTE

○Do not use the steel plate of 1.4 mm and 2.0 mm thick-

ness at the same time.

Install the removed parts, and inspect the clutch plate as-

•

sembly length.

Tighten:

•

Torque - Clutch Spring Bolts: 8.8 N·m (0.90 kgf·m, 78 in·lb)

Clutch Plate Wear, Damage Inspection

Visually inspect the friction and steel plates for signs of

•

seizure, overheating (discoloration), or uneven wear.

Measure the thickness of each friction plate [A] at several

•

points.

If any plates show signs of damage, or if they have worn

past the service limit, replace them with new ones.

Friction Plate Thickness

Standard:

2.72 ∼ 2.88 mm (0.107 ∼ 0.113 in.)

Service Limit:

2.2 mm (0.087 in.)

Clutch Plate Warp Inspection

Place each friction plate or steel plate on a surface plate

•

and measure the gap between the surface plate [A] and

each friction plate or steel plate [B] with a thickness gauge

[C]. The gap is the amount of friction or steel plate warp.

If any plate is warped over the service limit, replace it with

a new one.

Friction and Steel Plate Warp

Standard:

0.2 mm (0.008 in.) or less

Service Limit:

0.3 mm (0.012 in.)

CLUTCH 5-11

Clutch

Clutch Spring Free Length Measurement

Measure the free length of the clutch springs [A].

•

If any spring is shorter than the service limit, it must be

replaced.

Clutch Spring Free Length

Standard:

82.1 mm (3.23 in.)

Service Limit:

78.0 mm (3.07 in.)

6-2 ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM

Exploded View

T1: 1.5 N·m (0.15 kgf·m, 13 in·lb) or Hand

T8: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)

-Tight

T9: 31 N·m (3.2 kgf·m, 23 ft·lb)

T2: 2.0 N·m (0.20 kgf·m, 17 in·lb)

EO: Apply engine oil.

T3: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)

G: Apply grease.

T4: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 104 in·lb)

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent

T5: 15 N·m (1.5 kgf·m, 11 ft·lb)

R: Replacement Parts

T6: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 14.5 ft·lb)

SS: Apply silicone sealant.

T7: 78 N·m (8.0 kgf·m, 58 ft·lb)

W: Apply water.

ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM 6-3

Engine Oil Flow Chart

1. Oil Pan

12. Drive Shaft

2. Oil Screen

13. Output Shaft

3. Oil Pump

14. Oil Pressure Switch

4. Oil Pressure Relief Valve

15. Cylinder Head

5. Oil Filter

16. Camshaft Cap

6. Oil Cooler

17. Camshaft

7. Crankshaft

18. Oil Passage

8. To Connecting Rod Journals

19. Oil Pipe

9. Starter Clutch Gear

20. Oil Drain Plug

10. Alternator Rotor

21. Oil Nozzles

11. Starter Clutch Oil Passage Hole

ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM 6-5

Engine Oil and Oil Filter

WARNING

Motorcycle operation with insufficient, deteri-

orated, or contaminated engine oil will cause

accelerated wear and may result in engine or trans-

mission seizure, accident, and injury.

Oil Level Inspection

Check that the engine oil level is between the upper [A]

•

and lower [B] levels in the gauge.

NOTE

○Situate the motorcycle so that it is perpendicular to the

ground.

○If the motorcycle has just been used, wait several min-

utes for all the oil to drain down.

○If the oil has just been changed, start the engine and

run it for several minutes at idle speed. This fills the oil

filter with oil. Stop the engine, then wait several minutes

until the oil settles.

CAUTION

Racing the engine before the oil reaches every part

can cause engine seizure.

If the engine oil gets extremely low or if the oil pump

or oil passages clog up or otherwise do not function

properly, the oil pressure warning light will light. If

this light stays on when the engine is running above

idle speed, stop the engine immediately and find the

cause.

Engine Oil Change

Situate the motorcycle so that it is vertical after warming

•

up the engine.

Remove the engine drain plug [A] to drain the oil.

•

○The oil in the oil filter can be drained by removing the filter

(see Oil Filter Change).

Replace the drain plug gasket [B] with a new one if it is

damaged.

Tighten the drain plug.

•

Torque - Engine Drain Plug: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 14.5 ft·lb)

Pour in the specified type and amount of oil.

•

Engine Oil

ZX600-J1 ∼ J2

ZX600-J3 ∼

Grade:

API SE, SF or SG

←

API SH, SJ or SL with JASO MA

SAE 10W40, 10W50, 20W40, or

Viscosity:

SAE 10W40

20W50

3.4 L (3.6 US qt) (when filter is

Amount:

←

not removed)

3.6 L (3.8 US qt) (when filter is

←

removed)

4.0 L (4.2 US qt) (when engine

←

is completely dry)

6-6 ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM

Engine Oil and Oil Filter

NOTE

○Although 10W-40 engine oil is the recommended oil

for most conditions, the oil viscosity may need to be

changed to accommodate atmospheric conditions in

your riding area.

Oil Filter Change

Drain the engine oil (see Engine Oil Change).

•

Remove:

•

Left Lower Fairing (see Frame chapter)

Remove the oil filter [A] with the oil filter wrench [B].

•

Special Tool - Oil Filter Wrench: 57001-1249

Replace the filter with a new one.

•

Apply engine oil to the gasket [A] before installation.

•

Tighten the filter with the oil filter wrench.

•

Torque - Oil Filter: 31 N·m (3.2 kgf·m, 23 ft·lb)

NOTE

○Hand tightening of the oil filter can not be allowed since

it does not reach to this tightening torque.

Pour in the specified type and amount of oil (see Engine

•

Oil Change).

ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM 6-7

Oil Pan

Oil Pan Removal

Remove:

•

Engine Oil (drain, see Engine Oil Change)

Muffler (see Engine Top End chapter)

Oil Pan Bolts [A]

Oil Pan [B]

Oil Pan Installation

Clean the oil screen [A].

•

Install the oil screen so that the crankcase rib [B] fits the

•

slot [C] of the oil screen.

Apply grease to the O-rings on the oil pipes [A].

•

If the relief valve was removed, install it.

○Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of

the relief valve [B], and tighten it.

Torque - Oil Pressure Relief Valve: 15 N·m (1.5 kgf·m, 11

ft·lb)

CAUTION

Do not apply too much non-permanent locking

agent to the threads. This may block the oil pas-

sage.

Replace the oil pan gasket with a new one.

•

Tighten:

•

Torque - Oil Pan Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)

6-8 ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM

Oil Pressure Relief Valve

Oil Pressure Relief Valve Removal

See the Oil Pan Removal.

•

Oil Pressure Relief Valve Installation

See the Oil Pan Installation.

•

Oil Pressure Relief Valve Inspection

Check to see if the valve [A] slides smoothly when push-

•

ing it in with a wooden or other soft rod, and see if it comes

back to its seat by spring [B] pressure.

NOTE

○Inspect the valve in its assembled state. Disassembly

and assembly may change the valve performance.

If any rough spots are found during above inspection,

wash the valve clean with a high-flash point solvent and

blow out any foreign particles that may be in the valve with

compressed air.

WARNING

Clean the relief valve in a well-ventilated area, and

take care that there is no spark or flame anywhere

near the working area. Because of the danger of

highly flammable liquids, do not use gasoline or low

-flash point solvent.

If cleaning does not solve the problem, replace the relief

valve as an assembly. The relief valve is precision made

with no allowance for replacement of individual parts.

ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM 6-9

Oil Pump

Oil Pump Removal

Drain:

•

Coolant (see Cooling System chapter)

Engine Oil (see Engine Oil Change)

Remove:

•

Water Hoses [A]

Bolts [B] and Water Pump Cover [C]

Impeller Bolt [A]

Impeller [B]

Water Pump Body [A]

Oil Pump Cover [B]

Oil (Water) Pump Shaft [C]

Outer Rotor [D] and Inner Rotor

NOTE

○The oil (water) pump assembly can easily be removed

by installing water pump cover bolt [E] into the oil (water)

pump shaft and pulling them.

Oil Pump Installation

Install the outer rotor [A] in to the crankcase.

•

Install the pin [B], inner rotor [C] and oil (water) pump shaft

•

[D].

○Turn the pump shaft so that the slot [E] in its shaft fits onto

the projection [F] of the pump drive gear shaft.

Fit the pin [A] of the oil pump cover [B] into the hole [C] in

•

the crankcase.

6-10 ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM

Oil Pump

Install:

•

Pins [A]

Water Pump Body [B]

Impeller [A] and Bolt [B]

Tighten:

•

Torque - Impeller Bolt: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)

Install:

•

Pins [C]

Water Pump Cover [D]

Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of

•

the water pump cover bolts, and tighten them.

Torque - Water Pump Cover Bolts: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 104

in·lb)

Oil Pump Drive Gear Removal

Remove:

•

Clutch (see Clutch chapter)

Oil Pan (see Oil Pan Removal)

Circlip [A] and Washer [B]

Special Tool - Outside Circlip Pliers: 57001-144

Oil Pump Drive Gear [C]

Oil Pump Drive Gear Installation

Install the circlip [A] into the groove [B] of the oil pump

•

drive gear shaft.

Special Tool - Outside Circlip Pliers: 57001-144

ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM 6-11

Oil Cooler

Oil Cooler Removal

Remove:

•

Lower Fairing (see Frame chapter)

Drain:

•

Engine Oil (see Engine Oil Change)

Coolant (see Cooling System chapter)

Remove the oil filter.

•

Remove the oil cooler hoses [A] from the oil cooler.

•

Unscrew the oil cooler bolt [B] from the crankcase, and

•

remove the oil cooler [C].

Oil Cooler Installation

Apply grease to the O-ring [A] before installation.

•

Apply engine oil to the oil cooler bolt, and install the oil

•

cooler with the bolt.

Install the oil cooler so that the crankcase rib [A] fits the

•

slot [B] of the oil cooler.

Tighten:

•

Torque - Oil Cooler Mounting Bolt: 78 N·m (8.0 kgf·m, 58

ft·lb)

Pour:

•

Engine Oil (see Engine Oil Change)

Coolant (see Cooling System chapter)

6-12 ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM

Oil Pressure Measurement

Oil Pressure Measurement

Remove the lower fairing (see Frame chapter).

•

Remove the oil passage plug, and attach the gauge [A]

•

and adapter [B] to the plug hole.

Special Tools - Oil Pressure Gauge, 10 kgf/cm²: 57001-164

Oil Pressure Gauge Adapter, M18 × 1.5:

57001-1278

Start the engine and warm up the engine.

•

Run the engine at the specified speed, and read the oil

•

pressure gauge.

If the oil pressure is much lower than the standard, check

the oil pump, oil pump relief valve, and/or crankshaft bear-

ing insert wear immediately.

If the reading is much higher than the standard, check the

oil passaged for clogging.

Oil Pressure

Standard:

120 ∼ 180 kPa (1.2 ∼ 1.8 kgf/cm², 17 ∼ 26 psi)

@4 000 r/min (rpm), oil temp. 90°C (194 °F)

Stop the engine.

•

Remove the oil pressure gauge and adapter.

•

WARNING

Take care against burns form hot engine oil that

will drain through the oil passage when the gauge

adapter is removed.

Install the oil passage plug and tighten it.

•

Torque - Oil Passage Plug (Right): 15 N·m (1.5 kgf·m, 11

ft·lb)

ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM 6-13

Oil Pressure Switch

Oil Pressure Switch Removal

Remove:

•

Right Lower Fairing (see Frame chapter)

Engine Oil (drain, see Engine Oil Change)

Switch Cover [A]

Switch Terminal [B]

Oil Pressure Switch [C]

Oil Pressure Switch Installation

Apply silicone sealant to the threads of the oil pressure

•

switch and tighten it.

Sealant - Kawasaki Bond (Silicone Sealant): 56019-120

Torque - Oil Pressure Switch: 15 N·m (1.5 kgf·m, 11 ft·lb)

Tighten:

•

Torque - Oil Pressure Switch Terminal Bolt: 1.5 N·m (0.15

kgf·m, 13 in·lb)

Apply grease to the terminal.

•

7-2 ENGINE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

Exploded View

T1: 44 N·m (4.5 kgf·m, 33 ft·lb)

T2: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)

T3: 49 N·m (5.0 kgf·m, 36 ft·lb)

7-4 ENGINE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

Engine Removal/Installation

Engine Removal

Squeeze the brake lever slowly and hold it with a band

•

[A].

WARNING

Be sure to hold the front brake when removing the

engine, or the motorcycle may fall over. It could

cause an accident and injury.

CAUTION

Be sure to hold the front brake when removing the

engine, or the motorcycle may fall over. The engine

or the motorcycle could be damaged.

Drain:

•

Engine Oil (see Engine Lubrication System chapter)

Coolant (see Cooling System chapter)

Remove:

•

Lower Fairings (see Frame chapter)

Fuel Tank (see Fuel System chapter)

Air Cleaner Housing (see Fuel System chapter)

Carburetors (see Fuel System chapter)

Baffle Plate on the Cylinder Head Cover

Radiator [A]

Clutch Cable Lower End [B]

Muffler [C]

Shift Lever [A]

Reserve Tank [B]

Speed Sensor [C]

Engine Sprocket (see Final Drive chapter)

ENGINE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION 7-5

Engine Removal/Installation

Pull off the connectors from the engine and free the wiring

•

from the clamps.

Crankshaft Sensor Lead Connector [A]

Battery Ground Cable [B]

Starter Motor Cable [C]

Alternator Lead Connector [D]

Side Stand Switch Lead Connector [E]

Speed Sensor Connector [F]

Stick Coil Harness Connector [A]

Support the rear part of the frame on the jack.

•

Special Tool - Jack: 57001-1238

Support the engine with a suitable stand [A].

•

Remove the engine mounting bolts and nuts [B].

•

Loosen the locknuts and adjusting bolts [C].

•

Special Tool - Engine Mount Nut Wrench: 57001-1450

Remove the drive chain from the output shaft.

•

Using the stand, take out the engine.

•

Engine Installation

Before engine installation loosen the engine bracket bolts

•

[A].

Support the engine with a suitable stand.

•

Hang the drive chain over the output shaft just before

•

moving the engine into its final position in the frame.

Screw the adjusting bolts [H], [J] into the frame.

•

Insert the lower mounting bolt [B].

•

Insert the upper mounting bolts [C], [G].

•

Set the collar [D] and insert the middle mounting bolts [E].

•

7-6 ENGINE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

Engine Removal/Installation

Turn the adjusting bolt [H] until the clearance [X] between

•

the crankcase and frame come to zero mm.

Tighten the bracket bolts [A].

•

Torque - Engine Bracket Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)

Tighten the engine mounting bolts [C], [B], [E] and locknut

•

[L] with specified torque.

Torque - Engine Mounting Bolts: 44 N·m (4.5 kgf·m, 33 ft·lb)

Engine Mounting Locknuts: 49 N·m (5.0 kgf·m, 36

ft·lb)

Special Tool - Engine Mount Nut Wrench: 57001-1450

Pull out the engine mounting bolt [G] temporarily, and turn

•

the adjusting bolt [J] until the clearance [Y] between the

adjusting bolt and cylinder come to zero mm.

Insert the bolt [G] into engine mounting hole, and tighten

•

the bolt and locknut [K] with specified torque

Torque - Engine Mounting Bolts: 44 N·m (4.5 kgf·m, 33 ft·lb)

Engine Mounting Locknuts: 49 N·m (5.0 kgf·m, 36

ft·lb)

Special Tool - Engine Mount Nut Wrench: 57001-1450

Run the leads, cables and hoses correctly (see Cable,

•

Wire and Hose Routing section in the General Information

chapter).

Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).

•

Adjust:

•

Throttle Cables (see Fuel System chapter)

Choke Cable (see Fuel System chapter)

Clutch Cable (see Clutch chapter)

Drive Chain (see Final drive chapter)

Fill the engine with engine oil (see Engine Lubrication

•

System chapter).

Fill the engine with coolant and bleed the air from the

•

cooling system (see Cooling System chapter).

8-2 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Exploded View

T1: 4.9 N·m (0.5 kgf·m, 43 in·lb)

T11: See the text.

T2: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)

D: Do not apply any grease or oil.

T3: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 104 in·lb)

EO: Apply engine oil.

T4: 15 N·m (1.5 kgf·m, 11 ft·lb)

G: Apply grease.

T5: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 14.5 ft·lb)

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

T6: 44 N·m (4.5 kgf·m, 33 ft·lb)

LG: Apply silicone sealant (92104-1063).

T7: 30 N·m (3.0 kgf·m, 22 ft·lb)

M: Apply molybdenum disulfide grease.

T8: 18 N·m (1.8 kgf·m, 13 ft·lb)

S: Tighten the fasteners following the speci-

T9: 6.9 N·m (0.70 kgf·m, 61 in·lb)

fied sequence.

T10: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)

SS: Apply silicone sealant (56019-120).

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 8-3

Exploded View

T1: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 104 in·lb)

T2: 15 N·m (1.5 kgf·m, 11 ft·lb)

T3: 28 N·m (2.9 kgf·m, 21 ft·lb)

EO: Apply engine oil.

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

R: Replacement Parts

8-4 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Specifications

Item

Standard

Service Limit

Crankshaft, Connecting Rods

Connecting Rod Big End Side Clearance

0.13 ∼ 0.33 mm (0.0051 ∼ 0.0130 in.)

0.5 mm

(0.020 in.)

Connecting Rod Big End Bearing

0.031 ∼ 0.059 mm

0.10 mm

Insert/Crankpin Clearance

(0.0012 ∼ 0.0023 in.)

(0.004 in.)

Crankpin Diameter:

29.984 ∼ 30.000 mm

29.97 mm

(1.1805 ∼ 1.1811 in.)

(1.180 in.)

Marking:

None

29.984 ∼ 29.994 mm

- - -

(1.1805 ∼ 1.1809 in.)

○

29.995 ∼ 30.000 mm

- - -

(1.1809 ∼ 1.1811 in.)

Connecting Rod Big End Bore Diameter:

33.000 ∼ 33.016 mm

- - -

(1.2992 ∼ 1.2998 in.)

Marking:

None

33.000 ∼ 33.008 mm

- - -

(1.2992 ∼ 1.2995 in.)

○

33.009 ∼ 33.016 mm

- - -

(1.2996 ∼ 1.2998 in.)

Connecting Rod Big End Bearing Insert

Thickness:

Pink

1.475 ∼ 1.480 mm

- - -

(0.0581 ∼ 0.0583 in.)

Brown

1.480 ∼ 1.485 mm

- - -

(0.0583 ∼ 0.0585 in.)

Black

1.485 ∼ 1.490 mm

- - -

(0.0585 ∼ 0.0587 in.)

Connecting rod big end bearing insert selection:

Con-rod Big End

Bearing Insert

Crankpin Diameter

Bore Diameter

Marking

Size Color

Part Number

Marking

None

○

Pink

92028-1880

None

None

Brown

92028-1879

○

○

○

None

Black

92028-1878

Crankshaft Side Clearance

0.05 ∼ 0.20 mm (0.002 ∼ 0.008 in.)

0.40 mm

(0.016 in.)

Crankshaft Runout

TIR 0.02 (0.0008 in.) mm or less

TIR 0.05 mm

(0.002 in.)

Crankshaft Main Bearing Insert/journal

0.014 ∼ 0.038 mm

0.07 mm

Clearance

(0.0006 ∼ 0.0015 in.)

(0.0028 in.)

Crankshaft Main Journal Diameter:

29.984 ∼ 30.000 mm

29.96 mm

(1.1805 ∼ 1.1811 in.)

(1.1795 in.)

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 8-5

Specifications

Item

Standard

Service Limit

Marking:

None

29.984 ∼ 29.994 mm

- - -

(1.1805 ∼ 1.1809 in.)

1

29.995 ∼ 30.000 mm

- - -

(1.1809 ∼ 1.1811 in.)

Crankcase Main Bearing Bore Diameter:

33.000 ∼ 33.016 mm

- - -

(1.2992 ∼ 1.2998 in.)

Marking:

○

33.000 ∼ 33.008 mm

- - -

(1.2992 ∼ 1.2995 in.)

None

33.009 ∼ 33.016 mm

- - -

(1.2996 ∼ 1.2998 in.)

Crankshaft Main Bearing Insert Thickness:

Brown

1.491 ∼ 1.495 mm

- - -

(0.0587 ∼ 0.0589 in.)

Black

1.495 ∼ 1.499 mm

- - -

(0.0589 ∼ 0.0590 in.)

Blue

1.499 ∼ 1.503 mm

- - -

(0.0590 ∼ 0.0592 in.)

Crankshaft main bearing insert selection:

Crankcase

Bearing Insert*

Crankshaft Main

Main Bearing

Journal Diameter

Bore Diameter

Size Color

Part Number

Journal Nos.

Marking

Marking

92028-1883

3, 5

○

1

Brown

92028-1886

1, 2, 4

None

1

92028-1882

3, 5

Black

○

None

92028-1885

1, 2, 4

92028-1881

3, 5

None

None

Blue

92028-1884

1, 2, 4

*The bearing inserts for Nos. 1, 2 and 4 journals have an oil groove, respectively.

Item

Standard

Service Limit

Transmission

Shift Fork Ear Thickness

5.9 ∼ 6.0 mm (0.2323 ∼ 0.2362 in.)

5.8 mm (0.228 in.)

Gear Groove Width

6.05 ∼ 6.15 mm (0.2382 ∼ 0.2421 in.)

6.25 mm (0.246 in.)

Shift Fork Guide Pin Diameter

5.9 ∼ 6.0 mm (0.2323 ∼ 0.2362 in.)

5.8 mm (0.228 in.)

Shift Drum Groove Width

6.05 ∼ 6.20 mm (0.2382 ∼ 0.2441 in.)

6.3 mm (0.248 in.)

Special Tool - Bearing Puller: 57001-135

Outside Circlip Pliers: 57001-144

Bearing Puller Adapter: 57001-317

Flywheel & Pulley Holder: 57001-1605

Sealant - Kawasaki Bond (Silicone Sealant): 56019-120

Kawasaki Bond (Silicone Sealant): 92104-1063

8-6 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Crankcase Splitting

Crankcase Splitting

Remove the engine (see Engine Removal/Installation

•

chapter).

Set the engine on a clean surface and hold the engine

•

steady while parts are being removed.

Remove:

•

Crankshaft Sensor (see Electrical System chapter)

Oil Hose (Cylinder Head ∼ Lower Crankcase)

Clutch (see Clutch chapter)

External Shift Mechanism (see External Shift Mecha-

nism Removal)

Starter Motor (see Electrical System chapter)

Oil Pump (see Engine Lubrication System chapter)

Alternator Rotor (see Electrical System chapter)

Oil Filter (see Engine Lubrication System chapter)

Oil Cooler (see Engine Lubrication System chapter)

If the crankshaft is to be removed, remove the pistons

(see Engine Top End chapter).

Hold the timing rotor [A] steady with the holder [B], and

•

remove the timing rotor bolt [C] and the rotor.

Special Tool - Flywheel & Pulley Holder: 57001-1605

Remove the upper crankcase bolts.

•

○First loosen the 6 mm bolts.

7 mm Bolts [A]

6 mm Bolts [B]

Remove the oil pan, oil screen and oil pipes (see Engine

•

Lubrication System chapter).

Remove the lower crankcase bolts and brackets.

•

○First loosen the 6 mm bolts.

6 mm Bolts [A]

8 mm Bolts [B]

Tap lightly around the crankcase mating surface with a

•

plastic mallet, and split the crankcase. Take care not to

damage the crankcase.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 8-7

Crankcase Splitting

Crankcase Assembly

NOTE

○The upper and lower crankcase halves are machined

at the factory in the assembled state, so the crankcase

halves must be replaced as a set.

With a high-flash point solvent, clean off the mating sur-

•

faces of the crankcases halves and wipe dry.

Using compressed air, blow out the oil passages in the

•

crankcase halves.

Apply silicone sealant to the breather plate mating surface

•

[A] 1 to 1.5 mm (0.04 ∼ 0.06 in.) thick, wait until sealant

dries, and then install the breather plate [B].

Sealant - Kawasaki Bond (Silicone Sealant): 92104-1063

Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads and

•

tighten the bolts [C].

Torque - Breather Plate Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)

Install:

•

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

Camshaft Chain [A]

Transmission Shaft and Gears

Dowel Pins [B]

Shift Drum

Shift Forks and Shift Rods

Before fitting the lower case on the upper case, check the

•

following.

○Be sure to hang the camshaft chain on the crankshaft.

○Check to see that the shift drum and transmission gears

are in the neutral position.

Apply silicon sealant [A] to the mating surface of the lower

•

crankcase half.

Sealant - Kawasaki Bond (Silicone Sealant): 92104-1063

CAUTION

Do not apply silicone sealant around the crankshaft

main bearing inserts, and oil passage holes.

8-8 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Crankcase Splitting

Tighten the lower crankcase bolts, using the following

•

steps.

○Following the sequence numbers on the lower crankcase

half, tighten the 8 mm bolts [1 ∼ 10].

Torque - Crankcase 8 mm Bolts: 30 N·m (3.0 kgf·m, 22 ft·lb)

○Install the brackets [A] and tighten the 6 mm bolts [B].

Torque - Crankcase (L38 mm) 6 mm Bolts:

18 N·m (1.8

kgf·m, 13 ft·lb)

○Tighten the 6 mm bolts [C].

Torque - Crankcase 6 mm Bolts: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 104

in·lb)

Tighten the upper crankcase bolts, in the order listed.

•

Torque - Crankcase 7 mm Bolts [A]: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 14.5

ft·lb)

Crankcase 6 mm Bolts [B]: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 104

in·lb)

After tightening all crankcase bolts, check the following

•

items.

○Crankshaft and transmission shafts turn freely.

○While spinning the output shaft, gears shift smoothly from

the 1st to 6th gear, and 6th to 1st.

○When the output shaft stays still, the gear can not be

shifted to 2nd gear or other higher gear positions.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 8-9

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

Crankshaft Removal

Split the crankcase (see Crankcase Splitting).

•

Remove the crankshaft.

•

Crankshaft Installation

CAUTION

If the crankshaft, bearing inserts, or crankcase

halves are replaced with new ones, select the bear-

ing inserts and check clearance with a plastigage

(press gauge) before assembling engine to be sure

the correct bearing inserts are installed.

Apply engine oil to the crankshaft main bearing inserts.

•

Install the crankshaft with the camshaft chain [A] hanging

•

on it.

Connecting Rod Removal

Split the crankcase (see Crankcase Splitting).

•

Remove the connecting rod nuts.

•

Remove the crankshaft.

•

NOTE

○Mark and record the locations of the connecting rods

and their big end caps so that they can be reassembled

in their original positions.

Remove the connecting rods from the crankshaft.

•

CAUTION

Discard the connecting rod bolts. To prevent dam-

age to the crankpin surfaces, do not allow the con-

necting rod bolts to bump against the crankpins.

Connecting Rod Installation

CAUTION

To minimize vibration, the connecting rods should

have the same weight mark.

Big End Cap [A]

Connecting Rod [B]

Weight Mark, Alphabet [C]

Diameter Mark (Around Weight Mark) [D]: “○” or no

mark

8-10 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

CAUTION

If the connecting rods, big end bearing inserts, or

crankshaft are replaced with new ones, select the

bearing insert and check clearance with a plasti-

gage (press gauge) before assembling engine to be

sure the correct bearing inserts are installed.

CAUTION

The connecting rod bolts are designed to stretch

when tightened. Never reuse them.

Replace the connecting rod big end bolts and nuts with

•

new ones.

Apply engine oil to the inner surface of upper and lower

•

bearing inserts [A].

Apply a small amount of the engine oil to the threads [B]

•

and seating surface [C] of the connecting rod nuts.

○The connecting rod big end is bolted using the “plastic

region fastening method”.

○This method precisely achieves the needed clamping

force without exceeding it unnecessarily, allowing the

use of thinner, lighter bolts further decreasing connecting

rod weight.

○There are two types of the plastic region fastening. One

is a bolt length measurement method and other is a tight-

ening torque method. Observe one of the following two,

but the bolt length measurement method is preferable be-

cause this is a more reliable way to tighten the big end

nuts.

(1) Bolt Length Measurement Method

Be sure to clean the bolts, nuts, and connecting rods

•

thoroughly with high-flash point solvent, because the new

connecting rods, bolts, and nuts are treated with an anti

-rust solution.

WARNING

Clean the bolts, nuts, and connecting rods in a well

-ventilated area, and take care that there is no spark

or flame anywhere near the working area. This in-

cludes any appliance with a pilot light. Because of

the danger of highly flammable liquids, do not use

gasoline or low-flash point solvents to clean them.

CAUTION

Immediately dry the bolts and nuts with com-

pressed air after cleaning.

Clean and dry the bolts and nuts completely.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 8-11

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

Install new bolts in reused connecting rods.

•

Dent both bolt head and bolt tip with a punch as shown.

•

Before tightening, use a point micrometer to measure the

•

length of new connecting rod bolts and record the values

to find the bolt stretch.

Connecting Rod [A]

Dent here with a punch [B]

Nuts [C]

Fit micrometer pins into dents [D]

Tighten the big end nuts until the bolt elongation reaches

•

the length specified in the table.

Check the length of the connecting rod bolts.

•

If the stretch is more than the usable range, the bolt has

stretched too much. An overlongated bolt may break in

use.

Bolt Length after

Bolt Length

-

=

Stretch

tightening

before tightening

Usable Range of

0.30 ∼ 0.40 mm (0.012 ∼

Connecting Rod Bolt

0.016 in.) (ZX600-J1 ∼ J3)

Stretch

Usable Range of

0.18 ∼ 0.28 mm (0.007 ∼

Connecting Rod Bolt

0.011 in.) (ZX600-J4 ∼)

Stretch

(2) Tightening Torque Method

If you don’t have a point micrometer, you may tighten the

•

nuts using the “Tightening Torque Method”.

Be sure to clean the bolts, nuts, and connecting rods

•

thoroughly with high-flash point solvent, because the new

connecting rods, bolts, and nuts are treated with an anti

-rust solution.

WARNING

Clean the bolts, nuts, and connecting rods in a well

-ventilated area, and take care that there is no spark

or flame anywhere near the working area. This in-

cludes any appliance with a pilot light. Because of

the danger of highly flammable liquids, do not use

gasoline or low-flash point solvents to clean them.

CAUTION

Immediately dry the bolts and nuts with com-

pressed air after cleaning.

Clean and dry the bolts and nuts completely.

8-12 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

Apply a small amount of engine oil to the threads [A] and

•

seating surface [B] of the connecting rod nuts.

First, tighten the nuts to the specified torque.

•

Next, tighten the nuts 160° more.

•

○Mark [A] the connecting rod big end caps and nuts so that

nuts can be turned 160° [B] properly.

Torque + Angle-

15 N·m (1.5 kgf·m, 11 ft·lb) + 160° (ZX600-J1 ∼ J3)

Torque + Angle-

15 N·m (1.5 kgf·m, 11 ft·lb) + 120° (ZX600-J4 ∼)

CAUTION

Since the friction force of the mating surface and

thread portion of new nuts is different from that

of used ones, the nut tightening torque should be

changed as specified in the above table.

Be careful not to overtighten the nuts.

Crankshaft/Connecting Rod Cleaning

After removing the connecting rods from the crankshaft,

•

clean them with a high-flash point solvent.

Blow the crankshaft oil passages with compressed air to

•

remove any foreign particles or residue that may have

accumulated in the passages.

Connecting Rod Bend Inspection

Remove the connecting rod big end bearing insets, and

•

reinstall the connecting rod big end cap.

Select an arbor [A] of the same diameter as the connect-

•

ing rod big end, and insert the arbor through the connect-

ing rod big end.

Select an arbor of the same diameter as the piston pin

•

and at least 100 mm (3.94 in.) long, and insert the arbor

[B] through the connecting rod small end.

On a surface plate, set the big-end arbor on V block [C].

•

With the connecting rod held vertically, use a height

•

gauge to measure the difference in the height of the

arbor above the surface plate over a 100 mm (3.94 in.)

length to determine the amount of connecting rod bend.

If connecting rod bend exceeds the service limit, the con-

necting rod must be replaced.

Connecting Rod Bend

Service Limit: TIR 0.2/100 mm (0.008/3.94 in.)

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 8-13

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

Connecting Rod Twist Inspection

With the big-end arbor [A] still on V block [C], hold the

•

connecting rod horizontally and measure the amount that

the arbor [B] varies from being paralleled with the surface

plate over a 100 mm (3.94 in.) length of the arbor to de-

termine the amount of connecting rod twist.

If connecting rod twist exceeds the service limit, the con-

necting rod must be replaced.

Connecting Rod Twist

Service Limit: TIR 0.2/100 mm (0.008/3.94 in.)

Connecting Rod Big End Side Clearance Inspeciton

Measure connecting rod big end side clearance [A].

•

○Insert a thickness gauge [B] between the big end and ei-

ther crank web to determine clearance.

Connecting Rod Big End Side Clearance

Standard:

0.13 ∼ 0.33 mm (0.0051 ∼ 0.0130 in.)

Service Limit:

0.5 mm (0.020 in.)

If the clearance exceeds the service limit, replace the con-

necting rod with new one and then check clearance again.

If clearance is too large after connecting rod replacement,

the crankshaft also must be replaced.

Connecting Rod Big End Bearing Insert/Crankpin

Wear Inspection

Measure the bearing insert/crankpin [B] clearance with

•

plastigage [A].

Tighten the big end nuts to the specified torque (see Con-

•

necting Rod Installation).

NOTE

○Do not move the connecting rod and crankshaft during

clearance measurement.

Connecting Rod Big End Bearing Insert/Crankpin

Clearance

Standard:

0.031 ∼ 0.059 mm (0.0012 ∼ 0.0023 in.)

Service Limit:

0.10 mm (0.004 in.)

If clearance is within the standard, no bearing replace-

ment is required.

If clearance is between 0.060 mm (0.0024 in.) and the

service limit [0.10 mm (0.004 in.)], replace the bear-

ing inserts [A] with inserts painted black [B]. Check

insert/crankpin clearance with the plastigage. The clear-

ance may exceed the standard slightly, but it must not be

less than the minimum in order to avoid bearing seizure.

If the clearance exceeds the service limit, measure the

diameter of the crankpins.

Crankpin Diameter

Standard:

29.984 ∼ 30.000 mm (1.1805 ∼ 1.1811 in.)

Service Limit:

29.97 mm (1.180 in.)

8-14 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

If any crankpin has worn past the service limit, replace the

crankshaft with a new one.

If the measured crankpin diameters are not less than the

service limit, but do not coincide with the original diameter

markings on the crankshaft, make new marks on it.

Crankpin Diameter Marks

None

29.984 ∼ 29.994 mm (1.1805 ∼ 1.1809 in.)

○

29.995 ∼ 30.000 mm (1.1809 ∼ 1.1811 in.)

Δ: Crankpin Diameter Marks, "○" mark or no mark.

Measure the connecting rod big end bore diameter, and

•

mark each connecting rod big end in accordance with the

bore diameter.

Tighten the big end nuts to the specified torque (see Con-

•

necting Rod Installation).

NOTE

○The mark already on the big end should almost coincide

with the measurement because of little wear.

Connecting Rod Big End Bore Diameter Marks

None

33.000 mm ∼ 33.008 mm (1.2992 ∼ 1.2995 in.)

○

33.009 ∼ 33.016 mm (1.2996 ∼ 1.2998 in.)

Big End Cap [A]

Connecting Rod [B]

Weight Mark, Alphabet [C]

Diameter Mark (Around Weight Mark) [D]: “○” or no

mark

Select the proper bearing insert [A] in accordance with the

•

combination of the connecting rod and crankshaft coding.

Size Color [B]

Con-rod Big End

Crankpin

Bearing Insert

Bore Diameter

Diameter

Size Color

Part Number

Marking

Marking

None

○

Pink

92028-1880

None

None

Brown

92028-1879

○

○

○

None

Black

92028-1878

Install the new inserts in the connecting rod and check

•

insert/crankpin clearance with the plastigage.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 8-15

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

Crankshaft Side Clearance Inspection

Insert a thickness gauge [A] between the crankcase main

•

bearing and the crank web at the No. 2 journal [B] to

determine clearance.

If the clearance exceeds the service limit, replace the

crankcase halves as a set.

NOTE

○The upper and lower crankcase halves are machined

at the factory in the assembled state, so the crankcase

halves must be replaced as a set.

Crankshaft Side Clearance

Standard:

0.05 ∼ 0.20 mm (0.002 ∼ 0.008 in.)

Service Limit:

0.40 mm (0.016 in.)

Crankshaft Runout Inspection

Measure the crankshaft runout.

•

If the measurement exceeds the service limit, replace the

crankshaft.

Crankshaft Runout

Standard:

TIR 0.02 mm (0.0008in.) or less

Service Limit: TIR 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)

Crankshaft Main Bearing Insert/Journal Wear

Inspection

Using a plastigage (press gauge) [A], measure the bear-

•

ing insert/journal [B] clearance.

NOTE

○Tighten the crankcase bolts to the specified torque (see

Crankcase Assembly).

○Do not turn the crankshaft during clearance measure-

ment.

○Journal clearance less than 0.025 mm (0.001 in.) can

not be measured by plastigage, however, using genuine

parts maintains the minimum standard clearance.

Crankshaft Main Bearing Insert/Journal Clearance

Standard:

0.014 ∼ 0.038 mm (0.0006 ∼ 0.0015 in.)

Service Limit:

0.07 mm (0.0028 in.)

If clearance is within the standard, no bearing replace-

ment is required.

If clearance is between 0.039 mm (0.0015 in.) and the

service limit (0.07 mm (0.003 in.)), replace the bearing in-

serts with inserts [A] painted blue [B]. Check insert/journal

clearance with the plastigage. The clearance may exceed

the standard slightly, but it must not be less than the min-

imum in order to avoid bearing seizure.

If clearance exceeds the service limit, measure the diam-

eter of the crankshaft main journal.

8-16 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

Crankshaft Main Journal Diameter

Standard:

29.984 ∼ 30.000 mm (1.1805 ∼ 1.1811 in.)

Service Limit:

29.96 mm (1.1795 in.)

If any journal has worn past the service limit, replace the

crankshaft with a new one.

If the measured journal diameters are not less than the

service limit, but do not coincide with the original diameter

markings on the crankshaft, make new marks on it.

Crankshaft Main Journal Diameter Marks

None

29.984 ∼ 29.994 mm (1.1805 ∼ 1.1809 in.)

1

29.995 ∼ 30.000 mm (1.1809 ∼ 1.1811 in.)

□: Crankshaft Main Journal Diameter Marks, “1” mark

or no mark.

Measure the main bearing bore diameter, and mark the

•

upper crankcase half in accordance with the bore diame-

ter.

○: Crankcase Main Bearing Bore Diameter Marks, “○”

mark or no mark.

NOTE

○Tighten the crankcase bolts to the specified torque (see

Crankcase Assembly).

○The mark already on the upper crankcase half should

almost coincide with the measurement.

Crankcase Main Bearing Bore Diameter Marks

○

33.000 ∼ 33.008 mm (1.2992 ∼ 1.2995 in.)

None

33.009 ∼ 33.016 mm (1.2996 ∼ 1.2998 in.)

Select the proper bearing insert [A] in accordance with the

•

combination of the crankcase and crankshaft coding.

Size Color [B]

Crankcase Main

Crankshaft Main

Bearing Insert*

Bearing Bore

Journal Diameter

Size Color

Part Number

Journal Nos.

Diameter Marking

Marking

92028-1883

3, 5

○

1

Brown

92028-1886

1, 2, 4

None

1

92028-1882

3, 5

Black

○

None

92028-1885

1, 2, 4

92028-1881

3, 5

None

None

Blue

92028-1884

1, 2, 4

*The bearing inserts for Nos. 1, 2 and 4 journals have an oil groove, respectively.

Install the new inserts in the crankcase halves and check

•

insert/journal clearance with the plastigage.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 8-17

Starter Motor Clutch

Starter Motor Clutch Removal/Installation

Refer to the Alternator Rotor Removal and Installation in

•

the Electrical System chapter.

Starter Motor Clutch Inspection

Remove:

•

Alternator Cover (see Electrical System chapter)

Starter Idle Gear

Turn the starter motor clutch gear [a] by hand. The starter

•

motor clutch gear should turn clockwise [B] freely, but

should not turn counterclockwise [C].

If the starter motor clutch does not operate as it should or

if it makes noise, go to the next step.

Disassemble the starter motor clutch, and visually inspect

•

the clutch parts.

If there is any worn or damaged part, replace it.

NOTE

○Examine the starter motor clutch gear as well. Replace

it if is worn or damage.

Starter Motor Clutch Disassembly

Remove:

•

Alternator Rotor (see Electrical System chapter)

Starter Motor Clutch Bolts [A] and Starter Motor Clutch

[B]

Starter Motor Clutch Assembly

Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of

•

the starter motor clutch bolts and tighten them.

Torque - Starter Motor Clutch Bolts: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25

ft·lb)

8-18 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Transmission

Shift Pedal Removal

Mark the position of the shift lever on the shift shaft so

•

that it can be installed later in the same position.

Remove the shift lever and shift pedal.

•

Shift Pedal Installation

Install the shift pedal [A] so that the distance between the

•

center of the shift pedal and the center line of the shift rod

[B] is about 3 mm by loosening the front and rear locknuts

[C] and turning the rod.

NOTE

○The locknut next to the groove [D] of the rod has left

-hand threads.

If necessary, adjust the pedal position from the standard

position to suit you as follows.

Loosen the front and rear rod locknuts.

•

Turn the rod to adjust the pedal position.

•

Tighten the locknuts securely.

•

External Shift Mechanism Removal

Remove:

•

Engine Oil (drain, see Engine Lubrication System chap-

ter)

Shift Pedal (see Shift Pedal Removal)

Clutch (see Clutch chapter)

Bolts [A], Oil Pipe Holders [B], Oil Pipe [C] and O-ring

Remove:

•

Shift Shaft [A]

Bolt [B]

Gear Positioning Lever [C] and Spring

External Shift Mechanism Installation

Apply a locking agent to the thread of the gear positioning

•

lever mounting bolt.

Install the gear positioning lever [A] as shown, and tighten

•

the bolt.

Springs [B]

Collar [C]

Bolt [D]

Torque - Gear Positioning Lever Bolt: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m,

104 in·lb)

Apply a locking agent to the thread of oil pipe holder bolt.

•

Tighten the oil pipe holder bolts.

•

Torque - Oil Pipe Holder Bolts: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 104 in·lb)

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 8-19

Transmission

External Shift Mechanism Inspection

Examine the shift shaft [A] for any damage.

•

If the shaft is bent, straighten or replace it.

If the serration are damaged, replace the shaft.

If the springs [B] [C] are damaged in any way, replace

them.

If the shift mechanism arm [D] is damaged in any way,

replace the arm.

Check the return spring pin [A] is not loose.

•

If it is loose, unscrew it, apply a non-permanent locking

agent to the threads, and tighten it.

Torque - Shift Shaft Return Spring Pin: 28 N·m (2.9 kgf·m,

21 ft·lb)

Check the gear positioning lever [B] and it’s spring for

•

breaks or distortion.

If the lever or spring are damaged in any way, replace

them.

Visually inspect the shift drum cam [C].

•

If they are badly worn or if they show any damage, replace

it.

Transmission Shaft Removal

Split the crankcase (see Crankcase Splitting).

•

Remove the drive shaft [A] and output shaft [B].

•

Transmission Shaft Installation

Check to see that the set pins [A] and set rings [B] are in

•

place.

8-20 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Transmission

Install the drive shaft and output shaft into the upper

•

crankcase half.

Apply engine oil to the sliding surfaces of the gears and

•

bearings.

○The bearing set pins and rings must match properly with

the holes or grooves in the bearing outer races. When

they are properly matched, there is no clearance between

the crankcase and the bearing outer races [A].

Transmission Shaft Disassembly

Remove the transmission shafts (see Transmission Shaft

•

Removal).

Remove the circlips, disassemble the transmission

•

shafts.

Special Tool - Outside Circlip Pliers: 57001-144

The 5th gear [A] on the output shaft has three steel balls

•

assembled into it for the positive neutral finder mecha-

nism. Remove the 5th gear.

○Set the output shaft in a vertical position holding the 3rd

gear [B].

○Spin the 5th gear quickly [C] and pull it off upward.

Remove the ball bearing [A] from each shafts.

•

Special Tools - Bearing Puller: 57001-135 [B]

Bearing Puller Adapter: 57001-317 [C]

Discard the bearing.

•

Transmission Shaft Assembly

Install the ball bearing on the drive shaft with the groove

•

toward the clutch side.

Install the gear bushing [A] on the shafts with their oil

•

holes [B] aligned.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 8-21

Transmission

The drive shaft gears can be recognized by size: the gear

•

with the smallest diameter is 1st gear, and the largest one

is 6th gear. Be sure that all parts are put back in the cor-

rect sequence and all circlips and washers are properly in

place.

Install the 3rd/4th gear onto the drive shaft with their holes

•

aligned.

The output shaft gears can be recognized by size: the

•

gear with the largest diameter is 1st gear, and the small-

est one is 6th gear. Be sure that all parts are put back

in the correct sequence and all circlips and washers are

properly in place.

Install the 5th and 6th gears onto the output shaft with

•

their holes aligned.

Fit the steel balls into the 5th gear holes in the output shaft

•

as shown.

View A - A’ (see CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 8-24)

[A] Gear (5th)

[B] Shaft

[C] Steel Balls

CAUTION

Do not apply grease to the steel balls to hold them

in place. This will cause the positive neutral finder

mechanism to malfunction.

○Check the ball-locking effect that the 5th gear does not

come out of the output shaft when moving it up and down

by hand.

Replace any circlip that were removed with new ones.

•

Install the circlips [A] so that opening [B] is aligned with a

•

spline groove [C].

Check that each gear spins or slides freely on the trans-

•

mission shafts without binding after assembly.

Shift Drum and Fork Removal

Remove:

•

Clutch (see Clutch chapter)

Oil Pan (see Engine Lubrication System chapter)

External Shift Mechanism (see External Shift Mecha-

nism Removal)

Gear Positioning Lever

Bolt [A] and Screw [B]

Shift Drum Bearing Holder [C]

Pull out the shift rods [D], and take off the shift forks.

•

Pull out the shift drum [E].

•

8-22 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Transmission

Shift Drum and Fork Installation

Set the transmission gears in the neutral position.

•

Install the shift drum so that the punch mark [A] on it faces

•

oil pan side.

Install the forks as shown.

•

Position the one with shortest ears [A] on the drive shaft

•

and place the pin in the center groove in the shift drum

[B].

○The two forks [C] on the output shaft are identical.

Install the shift rods [D], noting the groove position. The

•

rods are identical.

Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of the

•

shift drum bearing holder screw, and tighten it and bolt.

Torque - Shift Drum Bearing Holder Bolt: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m,

104 in·lb)

Shift Drum Bearing Holder Screw: 4.9 N·m (0.5

kgf·m, 43 in·lb)

Shift Drum Disassembly

Remove the shift drum (see Shift Drum and Fork Re-

•

moval).

While holding the shift drum with a vise, remove the shift

•

drum cam holder bolt.

[A] Shift Drum Cam Holder Bolt

[B] Dowel Pin

Shift Drum Assembly

Be sure to install the dowel pin.

•

Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of

•

the shift drum cam holder bolt, and tighten it.

Torque - Shift Drum Cam Holder Bolt: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m,

104 in·lb)

Shift Fork Bending Inspection

Visually inspect the shift forks, and replace any fork that is

•

bent. A bent fork could cause difficulty in shifting, or allow

the transmission to jump out of gear when under power.

90° [A]

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 8-23

Transmission

Shift Fork/Gear Groove Wear Inspection

Measure the thickness of the shift fork ears [A], and mea-

•

sure the width [B] of the gear grooves.

If the thickness of a shift fork ear is less than the service

limit, the shift fork must be replaced.

Shift Fork Ear Thickness

Standard:

5.9 ∼ 6.0 mm (0.2323 ∼ 0.2362 in.)

Service Limit:

5.8 mm (0.228 in.)

If the gear groove is worn over the service limit, the gear

must be replaced.

Gear Groove Width

Standard:

6.05 ∼ 6.15 mm (0.2382 ∼ 0.2421 in.)

Service Limit:

6.25 mm (0.246 in.)

Shift Fork Guide Pin/Drum Groove Wear Inspection

Measure the diameter of each shift fork guide pin [A], and

•

measure the width [B] of each shift drum groove.

If the guide pin on any shift fork is less than the service

limit, the fork must be replaced.

Shift Fork Guide Pin Diameter

Standard:

5.9 ∼ 6.0 mm (0.2323 ∼ 0.2362 in.)

Service Limit:

5.8 mm (0.228 in.)

If any shift drum groove is worn over the service limit, the

drum must be replaced.

Shift Drum Groove Width

Standard:

6.05 ∼ 6.20 mm (0.2382 ∼ 0.2441 in.)

Service Limit:

6.30 mm (0.248 in.)

Gear Dog and Gear Dog Hole Damage Inspection

Visually inspect the gear dogs [A] and gear dog holes [B].

•

Replace any damaged gears or gears with excessively

worn dogs or dog holes.

8-24 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Transmission

1. 1st Gear

11. Toothed Washer

2. 2nd Gear

12. Thrust Washer

3. 3rd Gear

13. Circlip

4. 4th Gear

14. Needle Bearing

5. 5th Gear

15. Bearing Outer Race

6. 6th (Top) Gear

16. Bushing

7. Toothed Washer

17. Ball Bearing

8. Thrust Washer (Thin)

18. Oil Seal

9. Circlip

19. Steel Ball

10. Circlip

9-2 WHEELS/TIRES

Exploded View

T1: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 14.5 ft·lb)

T2: 127 N·m (13 kgf·m, 94 ft·lb)

G: Apply grease.

R: Replacement Parts

WL: Apply soap and water solution or rubber lubricant.

9-4 WHEELS/TIRES

Wheels (Rims)

Front Wheel Removal

Remove:

•

Lower Fairing (see Frame chapter)

Brake Caliper Mounting Bolts [A]

Loosen:

•

Right Side Axle Clamp Bolts [A]

Axle [B]

Raise the front wheel off the ground.

•

Special Tool - Jack: 57001-1238

Pull out the axle to the right and drop the front wheel out

•

of the forks.

CAUTION

Do not lay the wheel down on one of the discs. This

can damage or warp the disc. Place blocks un-

der the wheel so that the disc does not touch the

ground.

Front Wheel Installation

NOTE

○The direction of the wheel rotation [A] is shown by an

arrow [B] on the wheel spoke.

Check the wheel rotation mark on the front wheel and

•

install it.

Fit the collars on the both sides of the hub.

•

Tighten the axle nut.

•

Torque - Front Axle Nut: 127 N·m (13 kg·m, 94 ft·lb)

Before tightening the clamp bolts on the right front fork

•

leg, pump the front fork up and down 4 or 5 times to all on

the right front fork leg to seat on the front axle.

NOTE

○Put a block in front of the front wheel to stop moving.

WHEELS/TIRES 9-5

Wheels (Rims)

Tighten the axle clamp bolts [A] on the right fork leg first.

•

Torque - Front Axle Clamp Bolts: 20 N·m (2.0 kg·m, 14.5

ft·lb)

Check the clearance [B] between the right fork leg [D] and

•

collar [C] with the thickness gauge.

Standard:

1.5 mm (0.06 in.)

Usable range:

0.5 ∼ 2.8 mm (0.02 ∼ 0.11 in.)

If the clearance is out of this range, remove the front wheel

again and check the axle, wheel hub and other related

parts for damage.

Tighten the axle clamp bolts on the left fork leg.

•

Torque - Front Axle Clamp Bolts: 20 N·m (2.0 kg·m, 14.5

ft·lb)

Install the front brake calipers (see Brakes chapter).

•

Check the front brake effectiveness (see Brakes chapter).

•

WARNING

Do not attempt to drive the motorcycle until a full

brake lever is obtained by pumping the brake lever

until the pads are against the disc. The brake will

not function on the first application of the lever if

this is not done.

Rear Wheel Removal

Remove the lower fairings (see Frame chapter).

•

Using the jack [A], raise the rear wheel off the ground.

•

○Adjust the length of the jack legs [B], situate the motorcy-

cle so that it is perpendicular to the ground.

Special Tool - Jack: 57001-1238

Remove:

•

Cotter Pin [A]

Axle Nut [B]

Axle [C]

9-6 WHEELS/TIRES

Wheels (Rims)

Remove the rear caliper.

•

Remove the chain cover.

•

Remove the drive chain [A] from the rear sprocket toward

•

the left.

Move the rear wheel back and remove it.

•

CAUTION

Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc

facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.

Place blocks under the wheel so that the disc does

not touch the ground.

Rear Wheel Installation

Engage the drive chain with the rear sprocket.

•

Install the caliper bracket [A] onto the swingarm stop [B].

•

○Insert the axle from the right side of the wheel, and tighten

the axle nut.

Torque - Rear Axle Nut: 127 N·m (13 kg·m, 94 ft·lb)

Install a new cotter pin.

•

NOTE

○When inserting the cotter pin, if the slots in the nut do

not align with the cotter pin hole in the axle, tighten the

nut clockwise [B] up to next alignment.

○It should be within 30 degree.

○Loosen once and tighten again when the slot goes past

the nearest hole.

Bend the cotter pin [A] over the nut.

•

Adjust the drive chain slack after installation (see Final

•

Drive chapter).

Install the rear caliper and the chain cover.

•

Check the rear brake effectiveness.

•

WARNING

Do not attempt to drive the motorcycle until a full

brake pedal is obtained by pumping the brake pedal

until the pads are against the disc. The brake will

not function on the first application of the pedal if

this is not done.

WHEELS/TIRES 9-7

Wheels (Rims)

Wheel Inspection

Raise the front/rear wheel off the ground.

•

Special Tool - Jack: 57001-1238

Spin the wheel lightly, and check for roughness or binding.

•

If roughness or binding is found, replace the hub bearings.

Inspect the wheel for small cracks, dents, bending, or

•

warp.

If there is any damage to the wheel, replace the wheel.

Measure the rim runout, radial [B] and axial [A], with a dial

•

gauge with tire installed.

If the rim runout exceeds the service limit, check the hub

bearings.

If the problem is not due to the bearings, replace the

wheel.

Rim Runout (with tire installed)

Standard:

Axial

TIR 0.5 mm (0.02 in.) or less

Radial

TIR 0.8 mm (0.03 in.) or less

Service Limit:

Axial

TIR 1 mm (0.04 in.)

Radial

TIR 1 mm (0.04 in.)

WARNING

Never attempt to repair a damaged wheel. If there

is any damage besides wheel bearings, the wheel

must be replaced to insure safe operational condi-

tion.

Axle Inspection

Visually inspect the front and rear axle for damages.

•

If the axle is damaged or bent, replace it.

Place the axle in V blocks that are 100 mm (3.94 in.) [A]

•

apart, and set a dial gauge [B] on the axle at a point

halfway between the blocks. Turn [C] the axle to mea-

sure the runout. The difference between the highest and

lowest dial readings is the amount of runout.

If axle runout exceeds the service limit, replace the axle.

Axle Runout/100 mm (3.94 in.)

Standard:

0.05 mm (0.002 in.) or less

Service Limit: 0.2 mm (0.08 in.)

Balance Inspection

Remove the wheel.

•

Support the wheel so that it can be spun freely.

•

Spin the wheel lightly, and mark [A] the wheel at the top

•

when the wheel stops.

○Repeat this procedure several times. If the wheel stops

of its own accord in various positions, it is well balanced.

If the wheel always stops in one position, adjust the wheel

balance.

9-8 WHEELS/TIRES

Wheels (Rims)

Balance Adjustment

If the wheel always stops in one position, provisionally

•

attach a balance weight [A] on the rim at the marking using

adhesive tape.

Rotate the wheel 1/4 turn [B], and see whether or not the

•

wheel stops in this position. If it does, the correct balance

weight is being used.

If the wheel rotates and the weight goes up, replace the

weight with the next heavier size. If the wheel rotates and

the weight goes down, replace the weight with the next

lighter size. Repeat these steps until the wheel remains

at rest after being rotated 1/4 turn.

Rotate the wheel another 1/4 turn and then another 1/4

•

turn to see if the wheel is correctly balanced.

Repeat the entire procedure as many times as necessary

•

to achieve correct wheel balance.

Permanently install the balance weight.

•

Balance Weight Removal

When the tire is not on the rim.

Push [A] the blade portion toward the outside with a reg-

•

ular tip screw driver, and slip the weight off the rim flange.

Discard the used balance weight.

•

When the tire is on the rim.

Pry [A] the balance weight off the rim flange using a reg-

•

ular tip screw driver as shown in the figure.

○Insert a tip of the screw driver between the tire bead [B]

and weight blade [C] until the end of the tip reaches the

end of the weight blade.

○Push the driver grip toward the tire so that the balance

weight slips off the rim flange.

Discard the used balance weight.

•

Balance Weight Installation

Check if the weight portion has any play on the blade and

•

clip.

If it does, discard it.

WARNING

If the balance weight has any play on the rim flange,

the blade and/or clip have been stretched. Replace

the loose balance weight.

Do not reuse used balance weight.

Unbalanced wheels can create an unsafe riding

condition.

WHEELS/TIRES 9-9

Wheels (Rims)

Lubricate the balance weight blade, tire bead, and rim

•

flange with a soap and water solution or rubber lubricant.

This helps the balance weight slip onto the rim flange.

CAUTION

Never lubricate with engine oil or petroleum distil-

lates because they will deteriorate the tire.

When required total weight exceeds 20 g, install balance

•

weight at both sides of rim flange as shown.

Weight Selection

Required Total Weight

One Side [A]

Other Side [B]

20 g

10 g

10 g

30 g

20 g

10 g

40 g

20 g

20 g

50 g

30 g

20 g

60 g

30 g

30 g

70 g

20 g + 20 g

30 g

80 g

20 g + 20 g

20 g + 20 g

90 g

20 g + 30 g

20 g + 20 g

Balance Weight

Part Number

Weight (grams)

41075-1014

10 (0.35 oz)

41075-1015

20 (0.70 oz)

41075-1016

30 (1.05 oz)

NOTE

○Balance weights are available from Kawasaki dealers in

10, 20, and 30 gram sizes. An imbalance of less than

10 grams will not usually affect running stability.

○Do not use four or more balance weight (more than 90

gram). If the wheel requires an excess balance weight,

disassemble the wheel to find the cause.

Install the balance weight on the rim.

•

○Slip the weight on the rim flange by pushing or lightly ham-

mering the weight in the direction shown in the figure.

Push or Hammer [A]

Rim Flange [B]

Tire Bead [C]

Blade [D]

WHEELS/TIRES 9-11

Tires

Air Pressure Inspection/Adjustment

Measure the tire air pressure with an air pressure gauge

•

[A] when the tires are cold (that is, when the motorcycle

has not been ridden more than a mile during the past 3

hours).

Adjust the tire air pressure according to the specifications

if necessary.

Air Pressure (when cold)

Front

Up to 182 kg (401 lb)

250 kPa (2.5 kgf/cm², 36 psi)

Rear

Up to 182 kg (401 lb)

290 kPa (2.9 kgf/cm², 41 psi)

Tire Inspection

As the tire tread wears down, the tire becomes more sus-

ceptible to puncture and failure. An accepted estimate is

that 90% of all tire failures occur during the last 10% of tread

life (90% worn). So it is false economy and unsafe to use

the tires until they are bald.

Visually inspect the tire for cracks [A] and cuts [B], re-

•

placing the tire in case of damage. Swelling or high spots

indicate internal damage, requiring tire replacement.

Remove any imbedded stones [D], nail [C] or other foreign

•

particles from the tread.

Wear Indicator [E]

Measure the tread depth at the center of the tread with a

•

depth gauge [A]. Since the tire may wear unevenly, take

measurement at several places.

If any measurement is less than the service limit, replace

the tire.

Tread Depth

Standard:

Front

4.0 mm (0.16 in.) (DUNLOP),

3.8 mm (0.15 in.) (MICHELIN)

Rear

5.4 mm (0.21 in.) (DUNLOP)

5.6 mm (0.22 in.) (MICHELIN)

Service Limit:

Front

1 mm (0.04 in.), (DE) 1.6 mm (0.06 in.)

2 mm (0.08 in.) (Up to 130 km/h (80

Rear

mph))

3 mm (0.12 in.) (Over 130 km/h (80 mph))

WARNING

To ensure safe handling and stability, use only the

recommended standard tires for replacement, in-

flated to the standard pressure.

9-12 WHEELS/TIRES

Tires

NOTE

○Most countries may have their own regulations a mini-

mum tire tread depth: be sure to follow them.

○Check and balance the wheel when a tire is replaced

with a new one.

Tire Removal

Remove:

•

Wheel (see Front, Rear Wheels Removal)

Disc(s)

Valve Core (let out the air)

To maintain wheel balance, mark the air valve position on

•

the tire with chalk so that the tire can be reinstalled in the

same position.

Chalk Mark or Yellow Mark [A]

Air Valve [B]

Align [C]

Lubricate the tire beads and rim flanges on both sides with

•

a soap and water solution or rubber lubricant. This helps

the tire beads slip off the rim flanges.

CAUTION

Never lubricate with engine oil or petroleum distil-

lates because they will deteriorate the tire.

Remove the tire from the rim using a suitable commer-

•

cially available tire changer.

NOTE

○The tires cannot be removed with hand tools because

they fit the rims too tightly.

Tire Installation

WARNING

Use the same manufacture’s on both front and rear

wheels.

Inspect the rim and tire, and replace them if necessary.

•

Clean the sealing surfaces of the rim and tire, and smooth

•

the sealing surfaces of the rim with a fine emery cloth if

necessary.

Remove the air valve and discard it.

•

CAUTION

Replace the air valve whenever the tire is replaced.

Do not reuse the air valve.

WHEELS/TIRES 9-13

Tires

Install a new valve in the rim.

•

○Remove the valve cap, lubricate the stem seal [A] with a

soap and water solution or rubber lubricant, and pull [B]

the air valve [A] through the rim from the inside out until it

snaps into place.

CAUTION

Do not use engine oil or petroleum distillates to lu-

bricate the stem because they will deteriorate the

rubber.

○The air valve is shown in the figure.

[A] Valve Cap

[B] Valve Core

[C] Stem Seal

[D] Valve Stem

[E] Valve Seat

[F] Valve Opened

Apply a soap and water solution, or rubber lubricant to the

•

rim flange and tire beads.

Check the tire rotation mark on the front and rear tires and

•

install them on the rim accordingly.

Tire Rotation Mark [A]

Rotating Direction [B]

Position the tire on the rim so that the air valve [A] is at

•

the tire balance mark [B] (the chalk mark made during

removal, or the yellow paint mark on a new tire).

Install the tire bead over the rim flange using a suitable

•

commercially available tire changer.

Lubricate the tire beads and rim flanges with a soap and

•

water solution or rubber lubricant to help seat the tire

beads in the sealing surfaces of the rim while inflating the

tire.

Center the rim in the tire beads, and inflate the tire with

•

compressed air until the tire beads seat in the sealing

surfaces.

WARNING

Be sure to install the valve core whenever inflating

the tire, and do not inflate the tire to more than 400

kPa (4.0 kg/cm², 57 psi). Overinflation can explode

the tire with possibility of injury and loss of life.

9-14 WHEELS/TIRES

Tires

Check to see that the rim lines [A] on both sides of the tire

•

sidewalls are parallel with the rim flanges.

If the rim flanges and tire sidewall rim lines are not parallel,

remove the valve core.

Lubricate the rim flanges and tire beads.

•

Install the valve core and inflate the tire again.

•

After the tire beads seat in the rim flanges, check for air

•

leakage.

○Inflate the tire slightly above standard inflation.

○Use a soap and water solution or submerge the tire, and

check for bubbles that would indicate leakage.

Adjust the air pressure to the specified pressure (see Tire

•

Inspection).

Install the brake disc(s) so that the marked side faces out

•

(see Brakes chapter).

Adjust the wheel balance.

•

Tire Repair

Currently two types of repair for tubeless tires have come

into wide use. One type is called a temporary (external) re-

pair which can be carried out without removing the tire from

the rim, and the other type is called permanent (internal)

repair which requires tire removal. It is generally under-

stood that higher running durability is obtained by perma-

nent (internal) repairs than by temporary (external) ones.

Also, permanent (internal) repairs have the advantage of

permitting a thorough examination for secondary damage

not visible from external inspection of the tire. For these

reasons, Kawasaki does not recommend temporary (exter-

nal) repair. Only appropriate permanent (internal) repairs

are recommended. Repair methods may vary slightly from

make to make. Follow the repair methods indicated by the

manufacturer of the repair tools and materials so that safe

results can be obtained.

WHEELS/TIRES 9-15

Hub Bearing

Hub Bearing Removal

Remove the wheel, and take out the following.

•

Collars

Coupling (out of rear hub)

Grease Seals

Circlips [A]

Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143 [B]

Use the bearing remover to remove the hub bearing [A].

•

CAUTION

Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc

facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.

Place blocks under the wheel so that the disc does

not touch the ground.

Special Tools - Bearing Remover Shaft,

13:

57001-1377

[B]

Bearing Remover Head,

25 ×

28: 57001

-1346 [C]

Hub Bearing Installation

Before installing the wheel bearings, blow any dirt or for-

•

eign particles out of the hub with compressed air to pre-

vent contamination of the bearings.

Replace the bearings with new ones.

•

NOTE

○Install the bearings so that the marked side faces out.

Install the bearings by using the bearing driver set which

•

does not contact the bearing inner race.

Press in each right the bearing [A] until they are bottomed.

•

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129 [B]

Replace the circlips with new ones.

•

Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143

Replace the grease seals with new ones.

•

Press in the grease seals [A] so that the seal surface is

•

flush [B] with the end of the hole.

○Apply high temperature grease to the grease seal lips.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129 [C]