Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R Motorcycle. Service Manual (2001-2002 year)

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-29

Charging System

Install the washer [A] so that the chamfer side [B] faces

•

outward.

NOTE

○Confirm the alternator rotor fit or not to the crankshaft

before tightening it with specified torque.

○Install the rotor and tighten it with 70 N·m (7 kgf·m, 52

ft·lb) of torque.

○Remove the washer and rotor bolt.

○Check the tightening torque with rotor puller.

If the rotor is not pulled out with 20 N·m (2 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)

of drawing torque, it is installed correctly.

If the rotor is pulled out with under 20 N·m (2 kgf·m, 15

ft·lb) of drawing torque, clean off any oil dirt or flaw of the

crankshaft and rotor tapered portion, and dry them with

a clean cloth. Then, confirm that it is not pulled out with

above torque.

Tighten the alternator rotor bolt while holding the alterna-

•

tor rotor steady with the flywheel holder.

Special Tool - Flywheel Holder: 57001-1313

Torque - Alternator Rotor Bolt: 120 N·m (12 kgf·m, 87 ft·lb)

Apply a thin coat of molybdenum disulfide grease to the

•

shaft [A], and install it and starter idle gear [B].

Install the alternator cover (see Alternator Cover Installa-

•

tion).

Alternator Inspection

There are three types of alternator failures: short, open

(wire burned out), or loss in rotor magnetism. A short or

open in one of the coil wires will result in either a low output,

or no output at all. A loss in rotor magnetism, which may be

caused by dropping or hitting the alternator, by leaving it

near an electromagnetic field, or just by aging, will result in

low output.

To check the alternator output voltage, do the following

•

procedures.

○Turn off the ignition switch.

○Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel System chapter).

○Supply fuel to the carburetors with an auxiliary fuel tank.

○Disconnect the alternator lead connector [A].

○Connect the hand tester as shown in the table 1.

○Start the engine, and run it 6,000 rpm 5 minutes.

○Run it at the rpm given in the table 1.

○Note the voltage readings (total 3 measurements).

Table 1 Alternator Output Voltage

Tester

Connections

Reading @

Range

Tester (+) to

Tester (-) to

4 000 rpm

250 V AC

One Black lead

Another Black lead

53.5 ∼ 72.5 V

15-30 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Charging System

If the output voltage shows the value in the table, the al-

ternator operates properly.

If the output voltage shows a much higher than the value

in the table, the regulator/rectifier is damaged. A much

lower reading than that given in the table indicates that

the alternator is defective.

Check the stator coil resistance as follows.

•

○Stop the engine.

○Connect the hand tester as shown in the table 2.

○Note the readings (total 3 measurement).

Table 2 Stator Coil Resistance

Tester

Connections

Reading

Range

Tester (+) to

Tester (-) to

× 1 Ω

One Black lead

Another Black lead

0.3 ∼ 0.4 Ω

If there is more resistance than shown in the table, or no

hand tester reading (infinity) for any two leads, the stator

has an open lead and must be replaced. Much less than

this resistance means the stator is shorted, and must be

replaced.

Using the highest resistance range of the hand tester,

•

measure the resistance between each of the black leads

and chassis ground.

Any hand tester reading less than infinity (∞) indicates a

short, necessitating stator replacement.

If the stator coils have normal resistance, but the voltage

check showed the alternator to be defective; then the rotor

magnets have probably weakened, and the rotor must be

replaced.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Regulator/Rectifier Inspection

Remove:

•

Seat Cover (see Frame chapter)

Fuel Tank (see fuel System chapter)

Connectors [A] (disconnect)

Clamp [B]

Bolts [A]

Regulator/Rectifier [B]

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-31

Charging System

Rectifier Circuit Check

Check the rectifier resistance as follows.

•

Disconnect the regulator/rectifier connector.

•

Connect the hand tester (special tool) to the regulator/rec-

•

tifier as shown in the table, and check the resistance in

both directions of each diode in the rectifier following the

table.

The resistance should be low in one direction and more

than ten times as much in the other direction. If any two

leads are low or high in both directions, the rectifier is

defective and the regulator/rectifier must be replaced.

NOTE

○The actual meter reading varies with the meter used

and the individual rectifier, but, generally speaking the

lower reading should be from zero to one half the scale.

Connections

No.

Reading

Tester Range

Tester (+)

Tester (-)

BK1

BK2

BK/BL

∞

BK3

BK1

BK2

BK/W

BK3

× 10Ω

BK1

1/2 scale or

BK/BL

BK2

less

× 100Ω

BK3

BK1

BK/W

BK2

∞

BK3

Regulator Circuit Check

To test the regulator out of circuit, use three 12 V batteries

and a test light (12 V 3 ∼ 6 W bulb in a socket with leads).

CAUTION

The test light works as an indicator and also a cur-

rent limiter to protect the regulator/rectifier from ex-

cessive current. Do not use an ammeter instead of

a test light.

15-32 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Charging System

Do the 1st step regulator circuit test.

•

○Connect the test light and the 12 V battery to the regula-

tor/rectifier as shown.

○Check BK1, BK2, and BK3 terminal respectively.

If the test light turns on, the regulator/rectifier is defective.

Replace it.

If the test light does not turn on, continue the test.

Do the 2nd step regulator circuit test.

•

○Connect the test light and the 12 V battery in the same

manner as specified in the "1st step regulator circuit test".

○Apply 12 V to the BK/R terminal.

○Check BK1, BK2, and BK3 terminal respectively.

If the test light turns on, the regulator/rectifier is defective.

Replace it.

If the test light does not turn on, continue the test.

Do the 3rd step regulator circuit test

•

○Connect the test light and the 12 V battery in the same

manner as specified in the "1st step regulator circuit test".

○Momentarily apply 24 V to the BK/R terminal by adding a

12 V battery.

○Check BK1, BK2, and BK3 terminals respectively.

CAUTION

Do not apply more than 24 volts. If more than 24

volts is applied the regulator/rectifier may be dam-

aged. Do not apply 24 V more than a few seconds.

If 24 volts is applied for more than a few seconds,

the regulator/rectifier may be damaged.

If the test light did not light when the 24 V was applied

momentarily to the BK/R terminal, the regulator/rectifier

is defective. Replace it.

If the regulator/rectifier passes all of the tests described,

it may still be defective. If the charging system still does

not work properly after checking all of the components

and the battery, test the regulator/rectifier by replacing it

with a known good unit.

Charging Voltage Inspection

Check the battery condition (see Battery section).

•

Warm up the engine to obtain actual alternator operating

•

conditions.

Remove the seats (see Frame chapter).

•

Check that the ignition switch is turned off, and connect

•

the hand tester [A] as shown in the table.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-33

Charging System

Start the engine, and note the voltage readings at vari-

•

ous engine speeds with the headlight turned on and then

turned off. (To turn off the headlight of US , Canada, Aus-

tralia and Malaysia models, disconnect the headlight con-

nector in the upper fairing.) The readings should show

nearly battery voltage when the engine speed is low, and,

as the engine speed rises, the readings should also rise.

But they must be kept under the specified voltage.

Charging Voltage

Connections

Tester Range

Reading

Tester (+) to

Tester (-) to

25 V DC

Battery (+)

Battery (-)

14.2 ∼ 15.2 V

Turn off the ignition switch to stop the engine, and discon-

•

nect the hand tester.

If the charging voltage is kept between the values given in

the table, the charging system is considered to be working

normally.

If the charging voltage is much higher than the values

specified in the table, the regulator/rectifier is defective

or the regulator/rectifier leads are loose or open.

If the charging voltage does not rise as the engine speed

increases, then the regulator/rectifier is defective or the

alternator output is insufficient for the loads. Check the

alternator and regulator/rectifier to determine which part

is defective.

15-36 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Ignition System

WARNING

The ignition system produces extremely high volt-

age. Do not touch the spark plugs or stick coils

while the engine is running, or you could receive

a severe electrical shock.

CAUTION

Do not disconnect the battery leads or any other

electrical connections when the ignition switch is

on, or while the engine is running. This is to prevent

IC igniter damage.

Do not install the battery backwards. The negative

side is grounded. This is to prevent damage to the

diodes and IC igniter.

Crankshaft Sensor Removal

Remove:

•

Fuel Tank (see Fuel System chapter)

Right Lower Fairing (see Frame chapter)

Water Temperature Sensor Connector [A]

Crankshaft Sensor Lead Connector [B]

Side Stand Switch Lead Connector [C]

Neutral Switch Lead Connector [A]

Crankshaft Sensor Cover

Oil Pressure Switch Terminal [A]

Remove the crankshaft sensor [B] by taking off the crank-

•

shaft sensor bolts [C].

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-37

Ignition System

Crankshaft Sensor Installation

Route the crankshaft sensor lead correctly (see Cable,

•

Wire, and Hose Routing in General/Information chapter).

Tighten:

•

Torque - Crankshaft Sensor Bolts: 5.9 N·m (0.60 kgf·m, 52

in·lb)

Apply silicone sealant [A] to the crankshaft sensor lead

•

grommet and crankcase halves mating surface on the

front and rear sides of the crankshaft sensor cover mount.

Sealant - Kawasaki Bond (Silicone Sealant): 56019-120

Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of

•

the crankshaft sensor cover bolt [A].

Install the clamps [B] and tighten the crankshaft sensor

•

cover bolts.

Torque - Crankshaft Sensor Cover Bolts: 11 N·m (1.1 kgf·m,

95 in·lb)

Install the oil pressure switch terminal and tighten the ter-

•

minal bolt.

Torque - Oil Pressure Switch Terminal Bolt: 1.5 N·m (0.15

kgf·m, 13 in·lb)

Apply grease to the terminal.

•

Install the other remove parts.

•

Crankshaft Sensor Inspection

Remove:

•

Fuel Tank (see Fuel System chapter)

Crankshaft Sensor Lead Connector [A]

Set the hand tester [B] to the × 100 Ω range and us-

•

ing auxiliary wire, connect it to the black lead [C] and

black/yellow lead [D] in the connector [A].

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

If there is more resistance than the specified value, the

coil has an open lead and must be replaced. Much less

than this resistance means the coil is shorted, and must

be replaced.

Crankshaft Sensor Resistance: 452 ∼ 462 Ω

Using the highest resistance range of the tester, measure

•

the resistance between the crankshaft sensor leads and

chassis ground.

Any tester reading less than infinity (∞) indicates a short,

it is necessary to replace the crankshaft sensor assembly.

15-38 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Ignition System

Crankshaft Sensor Peak Voltage Measurement

Remove:

•

Fuel Tank (see Fuel System chapter)

Crankshaft Sensor Lead Connector

Set the Hand Tester [B] to the × 25 V DC range, and

•

connect it to the peak voltage adapter [E] as shown in

the diagram.

Using two auxiliary wires, connect the black lead (-) of the

•

adapter to black/yellow lead [D] and red lead (+) to black

lead [C] in the crankshaft sensor connection [A].

Turn the ignition switch and engine stop switch on.

•

Grasp the clutch lever and pushing the starter button, turn

•

the engine 4 ∼ 5 seconds with the transmission gear in

neutral to measure the crankshaft sensor peak voltage.

Repeat the measurement 5 or more times.

•

Crankshaft Sensor Peak Voltage

Standard:

3.8 V or more

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Peak Voltage Adapter: 57001-1415

Type: KEK-54-9-B

Stick Coil (Ignition Coil together with Spark Plug Cap)

Removal

Remove the air cleaner housing (see Fuel System chap-

•

ter).

Disconnect the stick coil connectors [A].

•

Pull the stick coils [B] off the spark plugs.

•

CAUTION

Do not pry the connector part of the coil while re-

moving the coil.

Stick Coil (Ignition Coil together with Spark Plug Cap)

Installation

Install the coil using the following steps.

•

○Insert the coil as shown being careful of the coil head [A]

direction.

○Connect the connectors [B].

○Stick coil connectors angle [C]: about 45°

CAUTION

Do not tap the coil head while installing the coil.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-39

Ignition System

Stick Coil (Ignition Coil together with Spark Plug Cap)

Inspection

Remove the stick coils (see this chapter).

•

Measure the primary winding resistance [A] as follows.

•

○Connect the hand tester between the coil terminals.

○Set the tester to the × 1 Ω range, and read the tester.

Measure the secondary winding resistance [B] as follows.

•

○Connect the tester between the plug terminal and (-) coil

terminal.

○Set the tester to the × 1 kΩ range and read the tester.

Ignition Coil Winding Resistance

Primary Windings:

1.2 ∼ 1.6 Ω

Secondary Windings:

8.5 ∼ 11.5 kΩ

If the tester does not read as specified, replace the coil.

Stick Coil Primary Peak Voltage Measurement

NOTE

○Be sure the battery is fully charged.

Remove the stick coils (see this chapter), but do not re-

•

move the spark plugs.

Measure the primary peak voltage as follows.

•

○Install the new spark plug [E] into each stick coil [D], and

ground them onto the engine.

○Connect the peak voltage adapter [B] into the hand tester

[A] which is set to the × 250 V DC range.

○Connect the adapter to the lead wire-peak voltage

adapter [C] which is connected between the stick coil

connector and stick coil.

F: IC igniter

G: Battery

Special Tools - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Lead Wire - Peak Voltage Adapter:

57001

-1449

Peak Voltage Adapter: 57001-1415

Type: KEK-54-9-B

Primary Lead Connection

Adapter (R, +) to lead wire-peak voltage adapter (W)

Adapter (BK, -) to lead wire-peak voltage adapter (R)

15-40 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Ignition System

WARNING

To avoid extremely high voltage shocks, do not

touch the spark plugs or tester connections.

Turn the ignition switch and the engine stop switch ON.

•

Pushing the starter button, turn the engine 4 ∼ 5 seconds

•

with the transmission in neutral to measure the primary

peak voltage.

Repeat the measurements 5 times for one stick coil.

•

Stick Coil Primary Peak Voltage

Standard:

92 V or more

Repeat the test for the other stick coil.

•

If the reading is less than the specified value, check the

following.

Stick Coils (see Stick Coil Inspection)

Crankshaft Sensor (see Crankshaft Sensor Inspection)

IC Igniter (see IC Igniter Inspection)

Spark Plug Removal

Remove:

•

Air Cleaner Housing (see Fuel System chapter)

Stick Coils

Remove the spark plugs using the 16 mm plug wrench.

•

Owner’s Tool - Spark Plug Wrench, 16 mm: 92110-1146

Spark Plug Installation

Insert the spark plug vertically into the plug hole with the

•

plug [A] installed in the plug wrench [B].

Owner’s Tool - Spark Plug Wrench, 16 mm: 92110-1146

Tighten:

•

Torque - Spark Plugs: 13 N·m (1.3 kgf·m, 113 in·lb)

Fit the stick coils securely.

•

Spark Plug Cleaning and Inspection

Remove the spark plug, and visually inspect.

•

Clean the spark plug, preferably in a sandblasting device,

•

and then clean off any abrasive particles. The plug may

also be cleaned using a high flash-point solvent and a wire

brush or other suitable tool.

If the spark plug electrodes are corroded or damaged,

or if the insulator is cracked, replace the plug. Use the

standard spark plug or its equivalent.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-41

Ignition System

Spark Plug Gap Inspection

Measure the gap [A] with a wire-type thickness gauge.

•

If the gap is incorrect, carefully bend the side electrode

[B] with a suitable tool to obtain the correct gap.

Spark Plug Gap: 0.7 ∼ 0.8 mm (0.028 ∼ 0.031 in.)

CAUTION

Use only the recommended spark plugs (special

marks

). These spark plugs have special marks

[C] on the insulator, as shown. Other spark plugs

will wear prematurely.

IC Igniter Inspection

CAUTION

When inspecting the IC igniter [A], observe the fol-

lowing to avoid damage to the IC Igniter.

Do not disconnect the IC igniter with the ignition

switch on. This may damage the IC igniter.

Do not disconnect the battery leads while the en-

gine is running. This may damage the IC igniter.

IC Igniter Operation Check

Remove the seats (see Frame chapter).

•

Disconnect the IC igniter left side connector [A].

•

Set the Hand Tester [B] to the × 25 V DC range, and using

•

two auxiliary wires, connect it to the connector come from

harness side as follows.

Tester (+) terminal [C] → BR/W lead

Tester (-) terminal [D] → BK/Y lead

Special Tools - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Needle Adapter Set: 57001-1457

Turn the ignition switch on , and read the voltage.

•

IC Igniter Operation Voltage: Battery Voltage

If the tester reading is not specified one, check the battery

voltage, ignition switch and ignition fuse.

15-42 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Ignition System

Throttle Sensor Operation Check

Remove the fuel tank (see fuel System chapter).

•

Disconnect the throttle sensor lead connector.

•

Connect the adapter [A] between the connectors [B].

•

Special Tool - Throttle Sensor Setting Adapter:

57001

-1521

Set the Hand Tester [E] to the × 10 V DC range, and

•

connect it to the adapter as follows.

Hand Tester (+) Terminal → BL Lead [C]

Hand Tester (-) Terminal → BK/BL Lead [D]

Special Tools - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Needle Adapter Set: 57001-1457

Turn the ignition switch on, and read the voltage.

•

Throttle Sensor Voltage: approx. 5 V

If the voltage is out of specified one extremely, check the

Battery Voltage. If the Battery Voltage is correct, replace

the IC igniter.

Fuel Cut Valve Operation Check

Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel System chapter).

•

Set the Hand Tester [A] to the × 25 V DC range, and con-

•

nect it to the each fuel cut valve connector [B] as follows.

Hand Tester (+) Terminal [C] → BR/BK Lead

Hand Tester (-) Terminal [D] → R or O/G or O/BK or

LG/BK Lead

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Remove the each ignition coil at each valve test.

•

Turn the ignition switch on, and push the starter button.

•

Read the voltage at the moment.

•

If the tester reading is approximately battery voltage, it is

correct. If the voltage is not read, replace the IC igniter.

Starter Button Operation Check

Remove the seats (see Frame chapter).

•

Set the Hand Tester [A] to the × 10 V DC range, connect

•

it to the junction box [B] lead as follows.

Hand Tester (+) Terminal [C]

→ BK/R Lead

Hand Tester (-) Terminal [D]

→ Frame Ground

Special Tools - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Needle Adapter Set: 57001-1457

Turn the ignition switch on and push the starter button.

•

Read the voltage.

•

Starter Button Voltage: 8 V or more

If the tester reading is not specified one, replace the IC

igniter.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-43

Ignition System

Side Stand Switch Operation Check

Remove the seats (see Frame chapter).

•

Change the transmission gear to the first position and set

•

the side stand to “ON” position.

Set the Hand Tester [A] to the × 25 V DC range, and

•

connect it to the junction box [B] lead as follows.

Hand Tester (+) Terminal [C]

→ G/BK Lead

Hand Tester (-) Terminal [D]

→ Frame Ground

Special Tools - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Needle Adapter Set: 57001-1457

Turn the ignition switch on and push the starter button.

•

Read the voltage.

•

Side Stand Switch Operation Voltage: 6 ∼ 13.4 V

If the tester reading is not specified one, check the side

stand switch, starter lock out switch, gear position sensor

and starter circuit relay.

If the tester reading is correct, check the following.

Grasp the clutch lever, and start the engine.

•

○Side stand - “ON” position, transmission gear-first position

Release the clutch lever slowly.

•

If the engine does not stop after releasing the clutch lever

fully, the IC igniter is defective.

NOTE

○Some inspections as to the IC igniter are operated, but

the cause of troubles may be not able to clear enoughly.

If the cause of troubles are not cleared in described

inspections, replace the IC igniter with a new one.

CAUTION

Use only Hand Tester 57001-1394 for this test. A

tester other than the Kawasaki Hand Tester may

show different readings.

If a megger or a meter with a large-capacity battery

is used, the IC igniter will be damaged.

15-46 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Electric Starter System

Starter Motor Removal

Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel System chapter).

•

Slide back the rubber cap.

•

Remove the starter motor terminal nut [A] and the mount-

•

ing bolts [B].

Pull out the starter motor [C].

•

Starter Motor Installation

CAUTION

Do not tap the starter motor shaft or body. Tapping

the shaft or body could damage the motor.

When installing the starter motor, clean the starter mo-

•

tor legs [A] and crankcase [B] where the starter motor is

grounded.

Replace the O-ring [A] with a new one.

•

Apply grease to the O-ring.

•

Tighten:

•

Torque - Starter Motor Mounting Bolts: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m,

104 in·lb)

Starter Motor Disassembly

Take off the starter motor through bolts [A] and remove

•

both end covers [B] and pull the armature out of the yoke

[C].

Remove:

•

Brush Springs

Brush Holder Plate Screw [A]

Negative Brushes [B]

Brush Holder Plate [C]

15-48 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Electric Starter System

Align the groove [A] in the right-hand end cover and the

•

mark [B] on the yoke.

Align the tongue [A] on the left-hand end cover and the

•

terminal [B] on the right-hand end cover.

Brush Inspection

Measure the length [A] of each brush.

•

If any is worn down to the service limit, replace all

brushes.

Starter Motor Brush Length

Standard:

7 mm (0.28 in.)

Service Limit:

3.5 mm (0.14 in.)

Commutator Cleaning and Inspection

Smooth the commutator surface [A] if necessary with fine

•

emery cloth [B], and clean out the grooves.

Measure the diameter [A] of the commutator [B].

•

If the commutator diameter is less than the service limit,

replace the starter motor with a new one .

Commutator Diameter

Standard:

24 mm (0.94 in.)

Service Limit:

23 mm (0.91 in.)

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-49

Electric Starter System

Armature Inspection

Using the × 1 Ω hand tester range, measure the resis-

•

tance between any two commutator segments [A].

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

If there is a high resistance or no reading (∞) between any

two segments, a winding is open and the starter motor

must be replaced.

Using the highest hand tester range, measure the resis-

•

tance between the segments and the shaft [B].

If there is any reading at all, the armature has a short and

the starter motor must be replaced.

NOTE

○Even if the foregoing checks show the armature to be

good, it may be defective in some manner not readily

detectable with the hand tester. If all other starter motor

and starter motor circuit components check good, but

the starter motor still does not turn over or only turns

over weakly, replace the starter motor with a new one.

Brush Lead Inspection

Using the × 1 Ω hand tester range, measure the resis-

•

tance as shown.

[A] Terminal Bolt and Positive Brush

[B] Right-hand End Cover and Negative Brush

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

If there is not close to zero ohms, the brush lead has an

open. Replace the positive brush assembly and/or the

negative brush subassembly.

Right-hand End Cover Assembly Inspection

Using the highest hand tester range, measure the resis-

•

tance as shown.

[A] Terminal and Right-hand End Cover

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

If there is any reading, the right-hand end cover assembly

have a short. Replace the right-hand end cover assembly.

Starter Relay Inspection

Remove the seats.

•

Remove the starter relay.

•

Connect the hand tester [A] and 12 V battery [B] to the

•

starter relay [C] as shown.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

If the relay does not work as specified, the relay is defec-

tive. Replace the relay.

Testing Relay

Tester Range:

× 1 Ω range

Criteria:

When battery is connected → 0 Ω

When battery is disconnected → ∞ Ω

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-51

Lighting System

The US, Canada, Australia, and Malaysia models adopt

the daylight system and have a headlight relay in the junc-

tion box. In these models, the headlight does not go on

when the ignition switch and the engine stop switch are first

turned on. The headlight comes on after the starter button is

released and stays on until the ignition switch is turned off.

The headlight will go out momentarily whenever the starter

button is pressed and come back on when the button is re-

leased.

Headlight Beam Horizontal Adjustment

Turn the horizontal adjuster [A] on the headlight in or out

•

until the beam points straight ahead.

Headlight Beam Vertical Adjustment

Turn the vertical adjusters [B] on the headlight in or out to

•

adjust the headlight vertically.

NOTE

○On high beam, the brightest points should be slightly

below horizontal with the motorcycle on its wheels and

the rider seated. Adjust the headlight(s) to the proper

angle according to local regulations.

○For US model, the proper angle is 0.4 degrees below

horizontal. This is 50 mm (2 in) drop at 7.6 m (25 ft)

measured from the center of the headlights with the mo-

torcycle on its wheels and the rider seated.

50 mm (2 in) [A]

Center of Brightest Spot [B]

7.6 m (25 ft) [C]

Height of Headlight Center [D]

Headlight Bulb Replacement

Remove:

•

Headlight Connector

Headlight Bulb Dust Cover

Hook [A]

Headlight Bulb [B]

CAUTION

When handling the quartz-halogen bulb, never

touch the glass portion with bare hands. Always

use a clean cloth. Oil contamination from hands or

dirty rags can reduce bulb life or cause the bulb to

explode.

NOTE

○Clean off any contamination that inadvertently gets on

the bulb with alcohol or soap and water solution.

15-52 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Lighting System

Replace the headlight bulb.

•

Fit the dust cover [A] with the Top mark [B] upward onto

•

the bulb [C] firmly as shown.

After installation, adjust the headlight aim (see this chap-

•

ter).

Headlight Relay Unit Inspection

Remove the windshield.

•

Take off the headlight relay units [A].

•

Set the hand tester to the × 1 Ω range and make the

•

measurements shown in the figure.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394 [B]

If the tester readings are not as specified, replace the

headlight relay unit.

CAUTION

Use only Hand Tester 57001-1394 for this test. An

ohmmeter other the Kawasaki Hand Tester may

show different readings.

If a megger or a meter with a large-capacity battery

is used, the headlight relay unit will be damaged.

Testing Relay

Criteria:

When battery is connected → 0Ω

When battery is disconnected → ∞Ω

Headlight Relay [A]

12 V Battery [C]

15-54 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Lighting System

1. Ignition Switch

7. Junction Box

14. Main Fuse 30 A

2. High Beam Indicator

8. Tail Light Fuse 10 A

15. Battery

Light

9. Headlight Circuit Relay

16. Headlight Switch

3. Headlight

10. Headlight Fuse 10 A

17. Passing Button

4. City Light

11. Dimmer Switch

18. Diodes.

5. Headlight Relay (Hi)

12. Alternator

6. Headlight Relay (Lo)

13. Headlight Fuse 20 A

Turn Signal Relay Inspection

Remove:

•

Seats (see Frame chapter)

Turn Signal Relay [A]

Connect one 12 V battery and turn signal lights as indi-

•

cated in the figure, and count how may times the lights

flash for one minute.

Turn Signal Relay [A]

Turn Signal Lights [B]

12 V Battery [C]

If the lights do not flash as specified, replace the turn sig-

nal relay.

Testing Turn Signal Relay

Load

The Number of

Flashing times (c/m*)

Wattage (W)

Turn Signal Lights

1**

21 or 23

140 - 250

42 or 46

75-95

(*): Cycle(s) per minute

(**): Correspond to “one light burned out”

15-56 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Fuel Pump

The fuel pump [A] operates when the starter button is

pushed on or the engine is running.

When the fuel level in the float chamber is low, the fuel

pump operates to supply the fuel into the float chamber.

When the fuel reaches a certain level, the fuel pressure

rises, and the fuel pump stops.

Fuel Pump Removal/Installation

Refer to the Fuel System chapter.

•

Fuel Pump Relay Internal Resistance Inspection

Remove the seats (see Frame chapter).

•

Take off the fuel pump relay [A].

•

Set the hand tester to the × 1 kΩ range and make the

•

measurements shown in the table.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

If the tester readings are not as specified, replace the fuel

pump relay.

If the tester readings are normal, check the fuel pump

operation.

CAUTION

Use only Hand Tester 57001-1394 for this test. An

ohmmeter other than the Kawasaki Hand Tester

may show different readings.

If a megger or a meter with a large-capacity battery

is used, the pump relay will be damaged.

Fuel Pump Relay Internal Resistance

Range ×

Tester (+) Lead Connection

1 kΩ

∞

*(-)

∞

10 ∼ 100

∞

20 ∼ 200

1 ∼ 5

(-)*: Tester (-) Lead Connection

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-57

Fuel Pump

Fuel Pump Operational Inspection

Remove the fuel pump with the fuel filter (see Fuel System

•

chapter).

Prepare a container filled with kerosene.

•

Prepare the rubber hoses, and connect them to the pump

•

fittings.

Connect a suitable pressure gauge to the outlet hose as

•

shown.

Fuel Pump [A]

Pressure Gauge [B]

Outlet Hose [C]

Inlet Hose [D]

Fuel Filter [E]

Kerosene [F]

2-Pin Connector [G]

Battery [H]

Auxiliary Leads [I]

Connect the pump leads to the battery using auxiliary

•

wires as shown.

If the pump operates, check the pump relay.

If the pump does not operate, the pump is defective.

If the pump operates and the pump relay is normal, close

the outlet hose while operating the fuel pump.

When the pump stops, read the pressure gauge.

•

If the pressure gauge reading is out of the specified pres-

sure, the pump is defective.

Fuel Pump Pressure

Standard:

11 ∼ 16 kPa (0.11 ∼ 0.16 kgf/cm², 1.6 ∼ 2.3

psi)

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-59

Fuel Cut Valve

The fuel cut valves [A] are adopted for protection of the

catalytic converter.

Fuel Cut Valve Removal

WARNING

Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be ex-

plosive under certain conditions. Turn the ignition

switch OFF. Do not smoke. Make sure the area is

well-ventilated and free from any source of flame

or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot

light.

Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel System chapter).

•

Connect a suitable hose to the fitting at the bottom of each

•

carburetor float bowl.

Run the lower ends of the hoses into a suitable container.

•

Turn out each drain plug a few turns and drain the float

•

bowls.

Special Tool - Carburetor Drain Plug Wrench, Hex

57001-1269

Disconnect the connectors [B] of the fuel cut valves.

•

Loosen the fuel cut valves and remove them.

•

Fuel Cut Valve Installation

Install the fuel cut valves with a gray connector [A] on the

•

#1, #4 carburetors.

Install the fuel cut valves with a brown connector [A] on

•

the #2, #3 carburetors.

Do not install the fuel cut valves on the wrong carburetors.

•

The fuel cut valves will not work well.

Fuel Cut Valve Inspection

Remove the fuel cut valve [A].

•

Connect and disconnect one 12 V battery [B] to the fuel

•

cut valve connector as shown. The valve rod moves.

If the protrusion exceeds the standard (too long or too

short), the valve is defective and must be replaced.

Testing Fuel Cut Valve

Standard Protrusion

When battery is disconnected

→ 16.6 mm (0.65 in.)

When battery is connected

→ 18.6 ∼ 19.1 mm

(0.73 ∼ 0.75 in.)

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-61

Radiator Fan System

WARNING

The radiator fan is connected directly to the battery.

The fan may start even if the ignition switch is off.

NEVER TOUGH THE RADIATOR FAN UNTIL THE

RADIATOR FAN CONNECTOR IS DISCONNECTED.

TOUCHING THE FAN BEFORE THE CONNECTOR

IS DISCONNECTED COULD CAUSE INJURY FROM

THE FAN BLADES.

Fan System Circuit Inspection

Disconnect the leads from the radiator fan switch [A].

•

Using an auxiliary wire [B], connect the radiator fan switch

•

leads.

If the fan rotates, inspect the fan switch.

If the fan does not rotate, inspect the following.

Leads and Connectors

Main Fuse and Fan Fuse

Fan Motor

Fan Motor Inspection

Remove the left lower fairing (see Frame chapter).

•

Disconnect the 2-pin connector [A] in the fan motor leads.

•

Using two auxiliary wires, supply battery [B] power to the

•

fan motor.

If the fan does not rotate, the fan motor is defective and

must be replaced.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-63

Meter, Gauge, Indicator Unit

Meter Unit Removal

Remove:

•

Windshield (see Handlebar Removal in the Steering

chapter)

Remove the meter unit by taking off the mounting nuts [A]

•

with the washers.

Slide the dust cover [B] and remove the wiring connector.

•

CAUTION

Place the meter unit so that the face is up. If a meter

unit is left upside down or sideways for any length

of time, it will malfunction.

Meter, Gauge Disassembly

Remove:

•

Meter Unit (see Meters, Gauge Removal)

Screws [A]

Lower Meter Cover [B]

Separate the meter assembly [A] and upper meter cover

•

[B].

Bulb Replacement

Remove:

•

Meter Unit

Turn out the socket [A] counterclockwise.

•

Pull the bulb out of the socket.

•

CAUTION

Do not turn the bulb. Pull the bulb out to prevent

damage to the bulb. Do not use bulb rated for

greater wattage than the specified value.

15-64 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Meter, Gauge, Indicator Unit

Electronic Combination Meter Unit Inspection

Remove the meter unit.

•

CAUTION

Do not drop the meter unit. Place the meter unit so

that it faces upward. If the meter unit is left upside

down or sideways for a long time or dropped, it will

malfunction.

Using the auxiliary wires, connect the 12 V battery [A] to

•

the meter unit connector [B] as follows.

○Connect the battery positive terminal to the terminal [1].

○Connect the battery negative terminal to the terminal [2].

[1] Battery (Positive)

[2] Battery (Negative)

[3] Ignition

[4] Speed Sensor Electric Source

[5] Speed Sensor Pulse

[6] Tachometer Pulse

[7] Water Temperature

CAUTION

Do not short the terminals [2], [4] and [4], [5].

Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) Segments Check

Connect the battery positive terminal to the terminal [1].

•

Connect the battery negative terminal to the terminal [2].

•

Connect the terminal [1] to the terminal [3].

•

○When the terminals are connected, all the LCD segments

[A] and LED warning light [B] appear for three seconds.

○When the terminals are disconnected within three sec-

onds, all the LCD segments and LED warning light disap-

pear.

If the LCD segments and LED warning light will not ap-

pear, replace the meter unit.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-65

Meter, Gauge, Indicator Unit

ODO/TRIP or CLOCK/TEMP BUTTON Operate Confir-

mation

Connect the 12 V battery and terminals in the same man-

•

ner as specified in the "Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) Seg-

ments Check".

Check that when the button [A] or [B] is pushed and held

•

continuously, the display [C] or [D] turns an other mode

within two seconds.

[A] ODO/TRIP

[B] CLOCK/TEMP

[C] ODO METER → TRIP METER → ODO METER

[D] CLOCK → TEMPERATURE → CLOCK

If the display function does not work, replace the meter

unit.

Indicate the clock mode.

•

Check that when the button in CLOCK mode is pushed

•

for more than two seconds, the meter display turns to the

clock set mode.

Check that it is possible to adjust hours and minutes.

•

If the display function does not work and adjust, replace

the meter unit.

Indicate the temp mode.

•

Check that when the button in TEMP mode is pushed for

•

more than two seconds, the figure display turns to Celsius

degree or Fahrenheit degree of water temperature.

Speedometer Check

Connect the 12 V battery and terminals in the same man-

•

ner as specified in the "Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) Seg-

ments Check".

The speed equivalent to the input frequency is indicated in

•

the oscillator [A] if the square wave (illustrated as shown)

would be input into the terminal [5].

○Indicates approximately 60 mph in case the input fre-

quency would be approximately 146 Hz.

○Indicates approximately 60 km/h in case the input fre-

quency would be approximately 91 Hz.

If the oscillator is not available, the speedometer can be

•

checked as follows.

○Install the meter unit.

○Raise the rear wheel off the ground, using the jack.

○Turn on the ignition switch.

○Rotate the rear wheel by hand.

○Check that the speedometer shows the speed.

If the speedometer does not work, check the speed sen-

sor electric source voltage and speed sensor.

15-66 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Meter, Gauge, Indicator Unit

Speed Sensor Electric Source Check

Connect the 12 V battery and terminals in the same man-

•

ner as specified in the "Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) Seg-

ments Check".

Set the hand tester to the DC25 V range and connect it to

•

the terminals [2] and [4].

If the voltage is less than 7 V, replace the meter unit.

CAUTION

Do not short the terminals [2], [4] and [4], [5].

Odometer Check

Check the odometer with the speedometer in the same

•

way.

If value indicated in the odometer is not added, replace

the meter unit.

Trip Meter Check

Check the trip meter with the speedometer in the same

•

way.

If value indicated in the trip meter is not added, replace

the meter unit.

Check that when the ODO/TRIP button is pushed for more

•

than two seconds, the figure display turns to 0.0.

If the figure display does not indicate 0.0, replace the me-

ter unit.

Water Temperature Meter Check

Connect the 12 V battery and terminals in the same man-

•

ner as specified in the "Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) Seg-

ments Check".

Connect the variable rheostat [A] to the terminal [7] as

•

shown.

Check that the number of segments matches the resis-

•

tance value of the variable rheostat.

Resistance Value

Warning Light

Temperature METER [A]

(Ω)

[B]

9560

50°C (122°F)

OFF

2780

80°C (176°F)

OFF

950

110°C (230°F)

OFF

810

115°C (239°F)

690

Flash

If any display function does not work, replace the meter

•

unit.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-67

Meter, Gauge, Indicator Unit

Tachometer Check

Connect the 12 V battery and terminals in the same man-

•

ner as specified in the "Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) Seg-

ments Check".

The revolutions per minute (rpm) equivalent to the input

•

frequency is indicated in the oscillator [A] if the square

wave (illustrated as shown) would be input into the termi-

nal [6].

○Indicates approximately 6000 rpm in case the input fre-

quency would be approximately 200 Hz.

If the oscillator is not available, the tachometer can be

•

checked as follows.

○Connect the 12 V battery and terminals in the same man-

ner as specified in the "Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) Seg-

ments Check".

○Using an auxiliary wire, open and connect the terminal [1]

to the terminal [6] repeatedly.

○Then the tachometer hand [A] should flick [B].

If the hand does not flick, replace the meter unit.

Meter Circuit

1. Ignition Switch

2. Junction Box

3. Tachometer

4. Speedometer

5. Speed Sensor

6. Water Temperature Sensor

7. Battery

8. Main Fuse (30 A)

9. IC Igniter

15-68 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Switches and Sensors

Brake Light Timing Inspection

Turn on the ignition switch.

•

Check the operation of the rear brake light switch by de-

•

pressing the brake pedal.

If it does not as specified, adjust the brake light timing.

Brake Light Timing

Standard:

On after about 10 mm (3.94 in.) of pedal

travel [A]

Brake Light Timing Adjustment

Brake light timing is adjusted by changing the position of

the rear brake light switch.

Adjust the position of the switch so that the brake light

•

goes on after the specified pedal travel by turning the ad-

justing nut [A].

CAUTION

To avoid damaging the electrical connections in-

side the switch, be sure that the switch body does

not turn during adjustment.

Switch Inspection

Using a hand tester, check to see that only the con-

•

nections shown in the table have continuity (about zero

ohms).

○For the handlebar switches and the ignition switch, refer

to the tables in the Wiring Diagram.

If the switch has an open or short, repair it or replace it

with a new one.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Rear Brake Light Switch Connections

Side Stand Switch Connections

Neutral Switch Connections

Oil Pressure Switch Connections*

*: Engine lubrication system is in good condition

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-69

Switches and Sensors

Radiator Fan Switch Inspection

Remove the fan switch (see Cooling System chapter).

•

Suspend the switch [A] in a container of coolant so that

•

the temperature-sensing projection and threaded portion

are submerged.

Suspend an accurate thermometer [B] in the coolant so

•

that the sensitive portions [C] are located in almost the

same depth.

NOTE

○The switch and thermometer must not touch the con-

tainer sides or bottom.

Place the container over a source of heat and gradu-

•

ally raise the temperature of the coolant while stirring the

coolant gently.

Using the hand tester, measure the internal resistance

•

of the switch across the terminals at the temperatures

shown in the table.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

If the hand tester does not show the specified values, re-

place the switch.

Fan Switch Resistance

○Rising temperature:

From OFF to ON at 96 ∼ 100°C (205 ∼ 212°F)

○Falling temperature:

From ON to OFF at 91°C (196°F) or less

ON: Less than 0.5 Ω

OFF: More than 1 MΩ

15-70 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Switches and Sensors

Water Temperature Sensor Inspection

Remove the water temperature sensor (see Cooling Sys-

•

tem chapter).

Suspend the sensor [A] in a container of coolant so that

•

the temperature-sensing projection and threaded portion

are submerged.

Suspend an accurate thermometer [B] in the coolant so

•

that the sensitive portions [C] are located in almost the

same depth.

NOTE

○The sensor and thermometer must not touch the con-

tainer side or bottom.

Place the container over a source of heat and gradu-

•

ally raise the temperature of the coolant while stirring the

coolant gently.

Using the hand tester, measure the internal resistance of

•

the sensor across the terminal and the body at the tem-

peratures shown in the table.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

If the hand tester does not show the specified values, re-

place the sensor.

Water Temperature Sensor Resistance

50°C (122°F):

9.18 ∼ 9.94 kΩ

80°C (176°F):

2.50 ∼ 3.06 kΩ

120°C (248°F):

0.65 ∼ 0.73 kΩ

Throttle Sensor Removal/Installation

Remove the carburetors (see Fuel System chapter).

•

Remove the throttle sensor [A] by unscrewing the mount-

•

ing screws.

Be sure to adjust the throttle sensor when installing (see

•

Throttle Sensor Adjustment).

Throttle Sensor Inspection

Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel System chapter).

•

Prepare an auxiliary fuel tank and connect the fuel hose

•

to the carburetors.

Start the engine and warm it up thoroughly.

•

Check:

•

Idle Speed (see Fuel System chapter)

Battery Charging Condition (see this chapter)

Turn off the ignition switch.

•

Remove the throttle sensor lead connector [A].

•

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-71

Switches and Sensors

Connect the adapter [B] between the connectors [A].

•

Special Tool - Throttle Sensor Setting Adapter:

57001

-1521

Connect the hand tester to the adapter.

•

Hand Tester (+) → Y/W Lead [C]

Hand Tester (-) → BK/BL Lead [D]

Starter the engine.

•

Check the sensor output voltage with the engine idling.

•

Throttle Sensor Output Voltage

Standard:

0.95 ∼ 1.05 V (When engine is idling.)

If it is not within the specified voltage, adjust the throt-

tle sensor position (see Throttle Sensor Position Adjust-

ment).

If it is specified voltage, go to next test.

Stop the engine.

•

Turn on the ignition switch.

•

Check the sensor output voltage with the throttle fully

•

open.

Throttle Sensor Output Voltage

Standard:

3.95 ∼ 4.15 V (When throttle is fully

opened.)

If it is not within the specified voltage, replace the sensor.

Throttle Sensor Position Adjustment

Start the engine.

•

Check idle speed (see Fuel System chapter).

•

Stop the engine and remove the carburetor.

•

CAUTION

Do not turn the idle adjusting screw when removing

the carburetor.

Connect the throttle sensor setting adapter to the sensor

•

lead connectors (see Throttle Sensor Inspection).

Special Tool - Throttle Sensor Setting Adapter:

57001

-1521

Loosen the throttle sensor mounting screws [A].

•

Turn on the ignition switch.

•

When installing the sensor, tighten the screws gradually

•

and alternately.

Torque - Throttle Sensor mounting Screw: 3.4 N·m (0.35

kgf·m, 30 in·lb)

Adjust the position of the throttle sensor until the output

•

voltage is within the specified voltage.

Throttle Sensor Output Voltage

Standard:

0.95 ∼ 1.05 V

If it is not within the specified voltage, replace the sensor.

When installing the sensor, tighten the screws gradually

•

and alternately.

Torque - Throttle Sensor Mounting Screw: 3.4 N·m (0.35

kgf·m, 30 in·lb)

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 15-73

Junction Box

The junction box [A] has fuses [B], relays, and diodes.

The relays and diodes can not be removed.

Junction Box Fuse Circuit Inspection

Remove the seats (see Frame chapter).

•

Remove the junction box.

•

Pull off the connectors from the junction box.

•

Make sure all connector terminals are clean and tight, and

•

none of them have been bent.

Clean the dirty terminals, and straighten slightly-bent ter-

minals.

Check conductivity of the numbered terminals with the

•

hand tester.

If the tester does not read as specified, replace the junc-

tion box.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Fuse Circuit Inspection

Tester Connection

Tester Reading (Ω)

Tester Connection

Tester Reading (Ω)

1-1A

1A-8

∞

1-2

2-8

∞

3A-4

3A-8

∞

6-5

6-2

∞

6-10

6-3A

∞

6-7

17-3A

∞

6-17

Starter Circuit/Headlight Relay Inspection

Remove the junction box.

•

Check conductivity of the following numbered terminals

•

by connecting the hand tester and one 12 V battery to the

junction box as shown.

If the tester does not read as specified, replace the junc-

tion box.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Relay Circuit Inspection (with the battery disconnected)

Tester

Tester Reading

Tester

Tester Reading

Connection

(Ω)

Connection

(Ω)

*7 - 8

∞

9 - 11

∞

15-74 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Junction Box

*7 - 13

∞

12 - 13

∞

Starter Circuit

Headlight

(+) (-)

Relay

*13 - 9

Not ∞ **

13 - 11

∞

(+) (-)

12 - 11

Not ∞ **

(*): United States, Canada, Australia , and Malaysia Models only

(**): The actual reading varies with the hand tester used.

(+): Apply tester positive lead.

(-): Apply tester negative lead.

Relay Circuit Inspection (with the battery connected)

Battery

Tester

Connection

Reading

(+) (-)

(Ω)

Headlight Relay

*9-13

*7-8

(+) (-)

Starter Circuit Relay

11-12

13-11

Not ∞ **

(*): United States, Canada, Australia , and Malaysia Mod-

els only

(**): The actual reading varies with the hand tester used.

(+): Apply tester positive lead.

(-): Apply tester negative lead.

Diode Circuit Inspection

Remove the junction box.

•

Check conductivity of the following pairs of terminals.

•

Diode Circuit Inspection

Tester Connection

*13-8, *13-9, 12-11, 12-14, 15-14, 16-14

*: United States, Canada, Australia, and Malaysia Mod-

els only

The resistance should be low in one direction and more

than ten times as much in the other direction. If any diode

shows low or high in both directions, the diode is defective

and the junction box must be replaced.

NOTE

○The actual meter reading varies with the meter used

and the individual diodes, but, generally speaking, the

lower reading should be from zero to one half the scale.

15-76 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Fuse

30 A Main Fuse Removal

Remove:

•

Seats (see Frame chapter)

Starter Relay and 30 A Main Fuse Connector [A]

Pull out the main fuse [B] from the starter relay with needle

•

nose pliers.

Junction Box Fuse Removal

Remove the seats (see Frame chapter).

•

Unlock the hook to lift up the lid [A].

•

Pull the fuses [B] straight out of the junction box with nee-

•

dle nose pliers.

C: Headlight Fuse

Fuse Installation

If a fuse fails during operation, inspect the electrical sys-

•

tem to determine the cause, and then replace it with a

new fuse of proper amperage.

Install the junction box fuses on the original position as

•

specified on the lid.

Fuse Inspection

Remove the fuse (see Fuse Removal).

•

Inspect the fuse element.

•

If it is blown out, replace the fuse. Before replacing a

blown fuse, always check the amperage in the affected

circuit. If the amperage is equal to or greater than the

fuse rating, check the wiring and related components for

a short circuit.

Housing [A]

Fuse Element [B]

Terminals [C]

Blown Element [D]

CAUTION

When replacing a fuse, be sure the new fuse

matches the specified fuse rating for that circuit.

Installation of a fuse with a higher rating may cause

damage to wiring and components.

16-2 APPENDIX

Troubleshooting Guide

NOTE

Spark plug cap shorted or not in good con-

○This is not an exhaustive list, giving every

tact

possible cause for each problem listed. It

Spark plug incorrect

is meant simply as a rough guide to assist

IC igniter trouble

the troubleshooting for some of the more

Cam sensor trouble

common difficulties.

Neutral, starter lockout, or sidestand switch

trouble

Engine Doesn’t Start, Starting

Crankshaft sensor trouble

Difficulty:

Stick coil trouble

Starter motor not rotating:

Ignition or engine stop switch shorted

Starter lockout switch or neutral switch trou-

Wiring shorted or open

ble

Fuse blown

Starter motor trouble

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

Battery voltage low

Pilot screw and/or idle adjusting screw mal-

Starter relays not contacting or operating

adjusted

Starter button not contacting

Pilot jet, or air passage clogged

Wiring open or shorted

Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or miss-

Ignition switch trouble

ing

Engine stop switch trouble

Starter jet clogged

Fuse blown

Compression Low:

Starter motor rotating but engine doesn’t

Spark plug loose

turn over:

Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened

Starter clutch trouble

down

Engine won’t turn over:

No valve clearance

Valve seizure

Cylinder, piston worn

Valve lifter seizure

Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or

Cylinder, piston seizure

sticking)

Crankshaft seizure

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive

Connecting rod small end seizure

Cylinder head gasket damaged

Connecting rod big end seizure

Cylinder head warped

Transmission gear or bearing seizure

Valve spring broken or weak

Camshaft seizure

Valve not seating properly (valve bent,

Starter idle gear seizure

worn, or carbon accumulation on the

No fuel flow:

seating surface)

No fuel in tank

Battery voltage low

Poor Running at Low Speed:

Fuel pump trouble

Spark weak:

Fuel pump relay trouble

Battery voltage low

Fuel tank air vent obstructed

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted

Fuel filter clogged

Stick coil wiring trouble

Fuel tap clogged

Stick coil not in good contact

Fuel line clogged

Spark plug incorrect

Float valve clogged

IC igniter trouble

Fuel cut valve left close (check fuel cut

Crankshaft sensor trouble

valve and IC igniter)

Stick coil trouble

Engine flooded:

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high

Pilot screw maladjusted

Float valve worn or stuck open

Pilot jet, or air passage clogged

Starting technique faulty

Air bleed pipe bleed holes clogged

(When flooded, crank the engine with the

Pilot passage clogged

throttle fully opened to allow more air to

Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or miss-

reach the engine.)

ing

No spark; spark weak:

Choke plunger stuck open

Battery voltage low

Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted

or too low

Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trou-

Fuel tank air vent obstructed

ble

APPENDIX 16-3

Troubleshooting Guide

Fuel cut valve won’t fully open (check fuel

Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or miss-

cut valve and IC igniter)

ing

Carburetor holder loose

Air cleaner duct loose

Air cleaner O-ring damaged

Water or foreign matter in fuel

Fuel pump trouble

Carburetor holder loose

Fuel pump relay trouble

Fuel to carburetor insufficient

Fuel filter clogged

Fuel tank air vent obstructed

Compression low:

Fuel tap clogged

Spark plug loose

Fuel line clogged

Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened

Fuel pump trouble

down

Fuel pump relay trouble

No valve clearance

Fuel filter clogged

Cylinder, piston worn

Compression low:

Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or

Spark plug loose

sticking)

Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive

down

Cylinder head warped

No valve clearance

Cylinder head gasket damaged

Cylinder, piston worn

Valve spring broken or weak

Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or

Valve not seating properly (valve bent,

sticking)

worn, or carbon accumulation on the

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive

seating surface)

Cylinder head gasket damaged

Other:

Cylinder head warped

IC igniter trouble

Valve spring broken or weak

Carburetor not synchronizing

Valve not seating properly (valve bent,

Carburetor vacuum piston doesn’t slide

worn, or carbon accumulation on the

smoothly

seating surface.)

Carburetor vacuum piston diaphragm dam-

Knocking:

age

Carbon built up in combustion chamber

Engine oil viscosity too high

Fuel poor quality or incorrect

Drive train trouble

Spark plug incorrect

Brake dragging

IC igniter trouble

Air suction valve trouble

Miscellaneous:

Vacuum switch valve trouble

Throttle valve won’t fully open

Carburetor vacuum piston doesn’t slide

Poor Running or No Power at High

smoothly

Speed:

Carburetor vacuum piston diaphragm dam-

Firing incorrect:

aged

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted

Brake dragging

Stick coil wiring trouble

Clutch slipping

Stick coil not in good contact

Overheating

Spark plug incorrect

Engine oil level too high

IC igniter trouble

Engine oil viscosity too high

Crankshaft sensor trouble

Drive train trouble

Stick coil trouble

Air suction valve trouble

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

Vacuum switch valve trouble

Choke plunger stuck open

Catalytic converters melt down due to muf-

Main jet clogged or wrong size

fler overheating (KLEEN)

Jet needle or needle jet worn

Air jet clogged

Overheating:

Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high

Firing incorrect:

or too low

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted

Fuel cut valve won’t fully open (check fuel

Spark plug incorrect

cut valve)

IC Igniter trouble

Bleed holes of needle jet holder or needle

jet clogged

16-4 APPENDIX

Troubleshooting Guide

Muffler overheating:

Over Cooling:

For KLEEN, do not run the engine even if

Gauge incorrect:

with only one cylinder misfiring or poor

Water temperature meter broken

running (Request the nearest service fa-

Water temperature sensor broken

cility to correct it)

Cooling system component incorrect:

For KLEEN, do not push-start with a dead

Radiator fan switch trouble

battery (Connect another full-charged

Thermostat trouble

battery with jumper cables, and start the

engine using the electric starter)

Clutch Operation Faulty:

For KLEEN, do not start the engine under

Clutch slipping:

misfire due to spark plug fouling or poor

Friction plate worn or warped

connection of the stick coil

Steel plate worn or warped

For KLEEN, do not coast the motorcycle

Clutch spring broken or weak

with the ignition switch off (Turn the igni-

Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn

tion switch ON and run the engine)

No clutch lever play

IC igniter or fuel cut valve trouble

Clutch inner cable trouble

IC igniter trouble

Clutch release mechanism trouble

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

Clutch not disengaging properly:

Main jet clogged or wrong size

Clutch plate warped or too rough

Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too low

Clutch spring compression uneven

Carburetor holder loose

Engine oil deteriorated

Air cleaner duct loose

Engine oil viscosity too high

Air cleaner poorly sealed, or missing

Engine oil level too high

Air cleaner O-ring damaged

Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft

Air cleaner clogged

Clutch hub nut loose

Fuel pump trouble

Clutch hub spline damaged

Fuel pump relay trouble

Clutch friction plate installed wrong

Fuel filter clogged

Clutch lever play excessive

Compression high:

Clutch release mechanism trouble

Carbon built up in combustion chamber

Engine load faulty:

Gear Shifting Faulty:

Clutch slipping

Doesn’t go into gear; shift pedal doesn’t

Engine oil level too high

return:

Engine oil viscosity too high

Clutch not disengaging

Drive train trouble

Shift fork bent or seized

Brake dragging

Gear stuck on the shaft

Lubrication inadequate:

Gear positioning lever binding

Engine oil level too low

Shift return spring weak or broken

Engine oil poor quality or incorrect

Shift return spring pin loose

Oil cooler incorrect:

Shift mechanism arm spring broken

Oil cooler clogged

Shift mechanism arm broken

Gauge incorrect:

Shift pawl broken

Water temperature meter broken

Jumps out of gear:

Water temperature sensor broken

Shift fork ear worn, bent

Coolant incorrect:

Gear groove worn

Coolant level too low

Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn

Coolant deteriorated

Shift drum groove worn

Cooling system component incorrect:

Gear positioning lever spring weak or bro-

Radiator fin damaged

ken

Radiator clogged

Shift fork guide pin worn

Thermostat trouble

Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear

Radiator cap trouble

splines worn

Radiator fan switch trouble

Overshifts:

Fan motor broken

Gear positioning lever spring weak or bro-

Fan blade damaged

ken

Water pump not turning

Shift mechanism arm spring broken

Water pump impeller damaged

APPENDIX 16-5

Troubleshooting Guide

Abnormal Engine Noise:

Rear wheel misaligned

Knocking:

IC igniter trouble

Abnormal Frame Noise:

Carbon built up in combustion chamber

Front fork noise:

Fuel poor quality or incorrect

Oil insufficient or too thin

Spark plug incorrect

Spring weak or broken

Overheating

Rear shock absorber noise:

Piston slap:

Shock absorber damaged

Cylinder/piston clearance excessive

Disc brake noise:

Cylinder, piston worn

Pad installed incorrectly

Connecting rod bent

Pad surface glazed

Piston pin, piston pin hole worn

Disc warped

Valve noise:

Caliper trouble

Valve clearance incorrect

Other noise:

Valve spring broken or weak

Bracket, nut, bolt, etc.

not properly

Camshaft bearing worn

mounted or tightened

Valve lifter worn

Other noise:

Oil Pressure Warning Light Goes On:

Connecting rod small end clearance exces-

Engine oil pump damaged

sive

Engine oil screen clogged

Connecting rod big end clearance exces-

Engine oil level too low

sive

Engine oil viscosity too low

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive

Camshaft bearing worn

Piston ring worn, broken, or stuck

Crankshaft bearings worn

Piston ring groove worn

Oil pressure switch damaged

Piston seizure, damage

Wiring faulty

Cylinder head gasket leaking

Relief valve stuck open

Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head con-

O-ring at the oil passage in the crankcase

nection

damaged

Crankshaft runout excessive

Engine mounts loose

Exhaust Smokes Excessively:

Crankshaft bearing worn

White smoke:

Primary gear worn or chipped

Piston oil ring worn

Camshaft chain tensioner trouble

Cylinder worn

Camshaft chain, sprocket, guide worn

Valve oil seal damaged

Air suction valve damaged

Valve guide worn

Vacuum switch valve damaged

Engine oil level too high

Alternator rotor loose

Black smoke:

Catalytic converters melt down due to muf-

Air cleaner clogged

fler overheating (KLEEN)

Main jet too large or fallen off

Starter plunger stuck open

Abnormal Drive Train Noise:

Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high

Clutch noise:

Brown smoke:

Clutch rubber damper weak or damaged

Main jet too small

Clutch housing/friction plate clearance ex-

Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too low

cessive

Air cleaner duct loose

Clutch housing gear worn

Air cleaner O-ring damaged

Transmission noise:

Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing

Bearings worn

Transmission gears worn or chipped

Handling and/or Stability

Metal chips jammed in gear teeth

Unsatisfactory:

Engine oil insufficient

Handlebar hard to turn:

Drive line noise:

Cable routing incorrect

Drive chain adjusted improperly

Hose routing incorrect

Drive chain worn

Wiring routing incorrect

Rear and/or engine sprocket worn

Steering stem locknut too tight

Chain lubrication insufficient

16-6 APPENDIX

Troubleshooting Guide

Steering stem bearing damaged

Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weak

Steering stem bearing lubrication inade-

Rear shock absorber oil leaking

quate

Steering stem bent

Brake Doesn’t Hold:

Tire air pressure too low

Air in the brake line

Handlebar shakes or excessively vibrates:

Pad or disc worn

Tire worn

Brake fluid leakage

Swingarm pivot bearings worn

Disc warped

Rim warped, or not balanced

Contaminated pad

Wheel bearing worn

Brake fluid deteriorated

Handlebar clamp bolts loose

Primary or secondary cup damaged in master

Steering stem head nut loose

cylinder

Handlebar pulls to one side:

Master cylinder scratched inside

Frame bent

Wheel misalignment

Battery Trouble:

Swingarm bent or twisted

Battery discharged:

Steering maladjusted

Battery faulty (e.g., plates sulphated,

Front fork bent

shorted through sedimentation, elec-

Right and left front fork oil level uneven

trolyte insufficient)

Shock absorption unsatisfactory:

Battery leads making poor contact

(Too hard)

Load excessive (e.g., bulb of excessive

Front fork oil excessive

wattage)

Front fork oil viscosity too high

Ignition switch trouble

Rear shock absorber adjustment too hard

Alternator trouble

Tire air pressure too high

Wiring faulty

Front fork bent

Regulator/rectifier trouble

(Too soft)

Battery overcharged:

Tire air pressure too low

Regulator/rectifier trouble

Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking

Battery faulty

Front fork oil viscosity too low

Rear shock adjustment too soft

APPENDIX 16-7

General Lubrication

Lubrication

Before lubricating each part, clean off any rusty spots with

•

rust remover and wipe off any grease, oil, dirt, or grime.

Lubricate the points listed below with indicated lubricant.

•

NOTE

○Whenever the vehicle has been operated under

wet or rainy conditions, or especially after using a

high-pressure water spray, perform the general lubri-

cation

Pivots: Lubricate with Motor Oil.

Rear Brake Rod Joint

Points: Lubricate with Grease.

Clutch Cable Upper and Lower Ends

Throttle Cable Upper Ends

Choke Cable Upper End

Cables: Lubricate with Rust Inhibiter

Choke Cable

Throttle Cables

Clutch Cable

16-8 APPENDIX

Nut, Bolt, and Fastener Tightness

Tightness Inspection

Check the tightness of the bolts and nuts listed here. Also,

•

check to see that each cotter pin is in place and in good

condition.

NOTE

○For the engine fasteners, check the tightness of them

when the engine is cold (at room temperature).

If there are loose fasteners, retorque them to the spec-

ified torque following the specified tightening sequence.

Refer to the appropriate chapter for torque specifications.

If torque specifications are not in the appropriate chapter,

see the Standard Torque Table. For each fastener, first

loosen it by 1/2 turn, then tighten it.

If cotter pins are damaged, replace them with new ones.

Nut, Bolt and Fastener to be checked

Wheels:

Front Axle Nut

Front Axle Clamp Bolt

Rear Axle Nut

Rear Axle Nut Cotter Pin

Brakes:

Front Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts

Caliper Mounting Bolts

Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts

Brake Lever Pivot Nut

Brake Pedal Bolt

Brake Rod Joint Cotter Pin

Suspension:

Front Fork Clamp Bolts

Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Nuts

Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut

Uni-Trak Link Nuts

Steering:

Steering Stem Head Nut

Handlebar Mounting Bolts

Engine:

Engine Mounting Bolts

Exhaust Pipe Mounting Bolt

Muffler Mounting Nut

Exhaust Pipe Holder Nuts

Muffler Body and Exhaust Pipe Connecting Bolts

Clutch Lever Pivot Nut

Others:

Sidestand Mounting Bolt

Footpeg Mounting Bolts

Footpeg Bracket Mounting Bolts

Front Fender Mounting Bolts

Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R Motorcycle. Service Manual (2001-2002 year) - page 4