SAAB 9000. Manual - part 3

0•12

MOT Test Checks

Seat belts and seats

Note: The following checks are applicable to

all seat belts, front and rear.

• Examine the webbing of all the belts
(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious
fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten
each belt to check the buckles. If applicable,
check the retracting mechanism. Check the
security of all seat belt mountings accessible

from inside the vehicle.

• Seat belts with pre-tensioners, once
activated, have a "flag" or similar showing on
the seat belt stalk. This, in itself, is not a
reason for test failure.
• The front seats themselves must be
securely attached and the backrests must
lock in the upright position.

Doors

• Both front doors must be able to be opened
and closed from outside and inside, and must
latch securely when closed.

2 Checks carried out

WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE
GROUND

Vehicle identification

• Number plates must be in good condition,
secure and legible, with letters and numbers
correctly spaced - spacing at (A) should be at
least twice that at (B).

• The VIN plate and/or homologation plate
must be legible.

Electrical equipment

• Switch on the ignition and check the
operation of the horn.
• Check the windscreen washers and wipers,
examining the wiper blades; renew damaged
or perished blades. Also check the operation
of the stop-lights.

• Check the operation of the sidelights and
number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors
must be secure, clean and undamaged.
• Check the operation and alignment of the
headlights. The headlight reflectors must not
be tarnished and the lenses must be
undamaged.
• Switch on the ignition and check the
operation of the direction indicators (including
the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard
warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and
stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it
does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the
rear light cluster.
• Check the operation of the rear foglight(s),
including the warning light on the instrument
panel or in the switch.
• The ABS warning light must illuminate in
accordance with the manufacturers' design.
For most vehicles, the ABS warning light
should illuminate when the ignition is switched
on, and (if the system is operating properly)
extinguish after a few seconds. Refer to the
owner's handbook.

Footbrake

• Examine the master cylinder, brake pipes
and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings,
corrosion or other damage.

• The fluid reservoir must be secure and the
fluid level must be between the upper (A) and

lower (B) markings.

D Inspect both front brake flexible hoses for
cracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn the
steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the
hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any
part of the steering or suspension mechanism.
With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check

the hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.

Steering and suspension

D Have your assistant turn the steering wheel
from side to side slightly, up to the point
where the steering gear just begins to transmit
this movement to the roadwheels. Check for
excessive free play between the steering
wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear
or insecurity of the steering column joints, the
column-to-steering gear coupling, or the
steering gear itself.
• Have your assistant turn the steering wheel
more vigorously in each direction, so that the
roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,
examine all the steering joints, linkages,
fittings and attachments. Renew any
component that shows signs of wear or
damage. On vehicles with power steering,
check the security and condition of the
steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.
• Check that the vehicle is standing level,
and at approximately the correct ride height.

Shock absorbers

• Depress each corner of the vehicle in turn,
then release it. The vehicle should rise and
then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle
continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber
is defective. A shock absorber which has
seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.

MOT Test Checks

0•13

Exhaust system

• Start the engine. With your assistant
holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the
entire system for leaks. Repair or renew
leaking sections.

3 Checks carried out

WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED
AND THE WHEELS FREE TO
TURN

Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,
and securely support it on axle stands.
Position the stands clear of the suspension
assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are
clear of the ground and that the steering
can be turned from lock to lock.

Steering mechanism

• Have your assistant turn the steering from
lock to lock. Check that the steering turns
smoothly, and that no part of the steering
mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls
any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body
structure.
• Examine the steering rack rubber gaiters

for damage or insecurity of the retaining clips.

If power steering is fitted, check for signs of
damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or
connections. Also check for excessive
stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing

split pin or locking device, or severe corrosion
of the body structure within 30 cm of any
steering component attachment point.

Front and rear suspension and
wheel bearings

• Starting at the front right-hand side, grasp
the roadwheel at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock
positions and rock gently but firmly. Check for
free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,
suspension balljoints, or suspension mount-
ings, pivots and attachments.
• Now grasp the wheel at the 12 o'clock and
6 o'clock positions and repeat the previous
inspection. Spin the wheel, and check for
roughness or tightness of the front wheel
bearing.

• If excess free play is suspected at a
component pivot point, this can be confirmed
by using a large screwdriver or similar tool
and levering between the mounting and the
component attachment. This will confirm
whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its
retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the
bolt holes can often become elongated).

• Carry out all the above checks at the other
front wheel, and then at both rear wheels.

Springs and shock absorbers

• Examine the suspension struts (when
applicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,
or damage to the casing. Also check the
security of the mounting points.
• If coil springs are fitted, check that the
spring ends locate in their seats, and that the
spring is not corroded, cracked or broken.
Ill If leaf springs are fitted, check that all
leaves are intact, that the axle is securely
attached to each spring, and that there is no
deterioration of the spring eye mountings,
bushes, and shackles.

• The same general checks apply to vehicles
fitted with other suspension types, such as
torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.
Ensure that all mountings and attachments are
secure, that there are no signs of excessive
wear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulic
types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged
pipes.
• Inspect the shock absorbers for signs of
serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the
mounting bushes or attachments, or damage
to the body of the unit.

Driveshafts
(fwd vehicles only)

• Rotate each front wheel in turn and inspect
the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or
damage. Also check that each driveshaft is
straight and undamaged.

Braking system

• If possible without dismantling, check
brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure
that the friction lining material has not worn
excessively, (A) and that the discs are not
fractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).

• Examine all the rigid brake pipes
underneath the vehicle, and the flexible
hose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafing
or insecurity of the pipes, and for signs of
bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or
deterioration of the flexible hoses.
• Look for signs of fluid leaks at the brake
calipers or on the brake backplates. Repair or
renew leaking components.
• Slowly spin each wheel, while your

assistant depresses and releases the
footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating
and does not bind when the pedal is released.

0•14

MOT Test Checks

•

Examine the handbrake mechanism,

checking for frayed or broken cables,
excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of
the linkage. Check that the mechanism works
on each relevant wheel, and releases fully,
without binding.

•

It is not possible to test brake efficiency

without special equipment, but a road test can
be carried out later to check that the vehicle
pulls up in a straight line.

Fuel and exhaust systems

•

Inspect the fuel tank (including the filler

cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All
components must be secure and free from
leaks.

•

Examine the exhaust system over its entire

length, checking for any damaged, broken or
missing mountings, security of the retaining
clamps and rust or corrosion.

Wheels and tyres

•

Examine the sidewalls and tread area of

each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,
bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure
of the ply or cord due to wear or damage.
Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated
on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound and
properly seated, and that the wheel is not
distorted or damaged.

•

Check that the tyres are of the correct size

for the vehicle, that they are of the same size
and type on each axle, and that the pressures
are correct.

•

Check the tyre tread depth. The legal

minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over
at least three-quarters of the tread width.

Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect
front wheel alignment.

Body corrosion

•

Check the condition of the entire vehicle

structure for signs of corrosion in load-bearing
areas. (These include chassis box sections,
side sills, cross-members, pillars, and all
suspension, steering, braking system and
seat belt mountings and anchorages.) Any
corrosion which has seriously reduced the
thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to
cause the vehicle to fail. In this case

professional repairs are likely to be needed.

•

Damage or corrosion which causes sharp

or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed
will also cause the vehicle to fail.

4 Checks carried out on

YOUR VEHICLE'S EXHAUST

EMISSION SYSTEM

Petrol models

•

Have the engine at normal operating

temperature, and make sure that it is in good
tune (ignition system in good order, air filter
element clean, etc).

•

Before any measurements are carried out,

raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,
and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds.

Allow the engine speed to return to idle, and
watch for smoke emissions from the exhaust
tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much
too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible

black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more

than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule
of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt
(engine wear) while black smoke signifies

unburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or
other carburettor or fuel system fault).

•

An exhaust gas analyser capable of

measuring carbon monoxide (CO) and
hydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an
instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a
local garage may agree to perform the check
for a small fee.

CO emissions (mixture)

•

At the time of writing, for vehicles first used

between 1

August 1975 and 31

July 1986 (P

to C registration), the CO level must not
exceed 4.5% by volume. For vehicles first
used between 1

August 1986 and 31

July

1992 (D to J registration), the CO level must

not exceed 3.5% by volume. Vehicles first

used after 1

August 1992 (K registration) must

conform to the manufacturer's specification.
The MOT tester has access to a DOT database
or emissions handbook, which lists the CO and

HC limits for each make and model of vehicle.

The CO level is measured with the engine at

idle speed, and at "fast idle". The following
limits are given as a general guide:

At idle speed -

CO level no more than 0.5%

At "fast idle" (2500 to 3000 rpm) -

CO level no more than 0.3%

(Minimum oil temperature 60°C)

•

If the CO level cannot be reduced far

enough to pass the test (and the fuel and
ignition systems are otherwise in good
condition) then the carburettor is badly worn,
or there is some problem in the fuel injection
system or catalytic converter (as applicable).

HC emissions

•

With the CO within limits, HC emissions for

vehicles first used between 1

August 1975

and 31

July 1992 (P to J registration) must

not exceed 1200 ppm. Vehicles first used
after 1

August 1992 (K registration) must

conform to the manufacturer's specification.
The MOT tester has access to a DOT
database or emissions handbook, which lists
the CO and HC limits for each make and
model of vehicle. The HC level is measured
with the engine at "fast idle". The following is
given as a general guide:

At "fast idle" (2500 to 3000 rpm) -

HC level no more than 200 ppm

(Minimum oil temperature 60°C)

•

Excessive HC emissions are caused by

incomplete combustion, the causes of which
can include oil being burnt, mechanical wear
and ignition/fuel system malfunction.

Diesel models

•

The only emission test applicable to Diesel

engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke
density. The test involves accelerating the
engine several times to its maximum
unloaded speed.

Note: It is of the utmost importance that the

engine timing belt is in good condition before
the test is carried out.

•

The limits for Diesel engine exhaust

smoke, introduced in September 1995 are:

Vehicles first used before 1

August 1979:

Exempt from metered smoke testing, but
must not emit "dense blue or clearly

visible black smoke for a period of more
than 5 seconds at idle" or "dense blue or
clearly visible black smoke during accel-
eration which would obscure the view of
other road users".

Non-turbocharged vehicles first used after

August 1979:2.5m-i

Turbocharged vehicles first used after

August 1979: 3.0m-i

•

Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty

air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional
advice may be needed to find the cause.

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Contents

Air cleaner filter element renewal 33
Air conditioning system refrigerant check 23
Airbag system check 15
Antifreeze concentration check 11
Automatic transmission fluid and filter renewal 34
Automatic transmission fluid level check 27
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal 22

Battery electrolyte level check 8
Battery terminal check 17
Brake and clutch fluid level checks 4
Brake fluid renewal 37
Brake line and flexible hose check 30

Coolant renewal 35
Crankcase ventilation system check 20

Driveshaft rubber gaiter check 28
Electrical system check 7
Engine oil and filter renewal 10
Engine-related fluid checks 3
Exhaust system check 24

Degrees of difficulty

Front and rear brake pad and disc check 29
Front wheel alignment check 12
Fuel filter renewal 36
Headlight and foglight beam alignment 18
Hinge and lock lubrication 16
Hose and fluid leak check 21
Intensive maintenance 2
Introduction 1
Manual transmission oil level check 26
Power steering fluid level check 13
Road test 19
Seat belt check 14
Spark plug renewal 25
Specifications See end of Chapter
Steering, suspension and shock absorber check 31

Tyre checks 6
Ventilation air filter renewal 32
Washer fluid level check 5
Wiper blade check 9

Saab 9000 maintenance
schedule

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

•

Check the engine oil level (Section 3).

•

Check the engine coolant level (Section 3).

•

Check the brake fluid level (Section 4).

•

Check the screen washer fluid level (Section 5).

•

Visually examine the tyres for tread depth, and wear or

damage (Section 6).

•

Check and if necessary adjust the tyre pressures

(Section 6).

•

Check and if necessary top-up the battery electrolyte

level - where applicable (Section 8).

•

Check the operation of the horn, all lights, and the

wipers and washers (Sections 7 and 9).

1 The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the
assumption that you will be carrying out the work yourself. These are the
minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the manufacturer for

vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at
all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures more
often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the
efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.
2 If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used to tow a trailer, or driven
frequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more
frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.
3 When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory-
authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory
warranty.

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or

6 months - whichever comes sooner

•

Change the engine oil and filter (Section 10)

•

Content .. 1 2 3 4 ..