Peugeot 405 Haynes (petrol). Manual - part 25

30 Slacken the hose clip, and disconnect the
fluid hose from the pump. If the hose clip is of
the crimped type, discard it and fit a new
worm-drive clip on refitting.
31 Unscrew the two front pump mounting
bolts, which can be accessed through the
holes in the pump pulley.
32 Unscrew the bolt securing the pump
mounting bracket to the alternator (see
illustration).
33 Unscrew the rear pump bolt, then withdraw
the pump from the engine (see illustration).

Refitting

34 Refer to paragraph 11.

23 Track rod end -

removal and refitting

Removal

Note: A new track rod end-to-hub carrier nut
must be used on refitting.
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove
the appropriate front roadwheel.
2 If the balljoint is to be re-used, use a
straight-edge and a scriber, or similar, to mark
its relationship to the track rod.

3 Hold the track rod, and unscrew the track
rod end locknut by a quarter of a turn. Do not
move the locknut from this position, as it will
serve as a handy reference mark on refitting
(see illustration).
4 Slacken and partially unscrew the track rod
end-to-hub carrier nut (unscrew the nut as far
as the end of the threads on the balljoint to
prevent damage to the threads as the joint is
released), then release the balljoint using a
balljoint separator tool (see illustration).
Remove the nut.
5 Counting the exact number of turns
necessary to do so, unscrew the track rod
end from the track rod.
6 Count the number of exposed threads
between the end of the track rod end and the
locknut, and record this figure. If a new track
rod end is to be fitted, unscrew the locknut
from the old track rod end.
7 Carefully clean the balljoint and the threads.
Renew the track rod end if its balljoint
movement is sloppy or too stiff, if excessively
worn, or if damaged in any way; carefully
check the stud taper and threads. If the
balljoint gaiter is damaged, the complete track
rod end assembly must be renewed; it is not
possible to obtain the gaiter separately.

Refitting

8 If a new track rod end is to be fitted, screw
the locknut onto its threads, and position it so

that the same number of exposed threads are
visible, as were noted prior to removal.
9 Screw the track rod end onto the track rod
by the number of turns noted on removal. This
should bring the locknut to within a quarter of
a turn of the end face of the track rod, with the
alignment marks that were made on removal
(if applicable) lined up.
10 Engage the balljoint taper with the hub
carrier, then fit a new retaining nut and tighten
it to the specified torque.
11 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground and tighten the
roadwheel bolts to the specified torque.
12 Check and, if necessary, adjust the front
wheel toe setting as described in Section 25,
then securely tighten the track rod end
locknut.

24 Track rod -

removal and refitting

Removal

Note: A new inner balljoint lockwasher must
be used on refitting.
1 Remove the track rod end as described in
Section 23.
2 Either release the retaining clips and slide
the steering gear gaiter off the end of the track
rod, or release the track rod balljoint dust
cover from rack, and slide it off the track rod
(as applicable). Refer to Section 20 for further
information.
3 Unscrew the track rod inner balljoint from
the steering rack end, preventing the steering
rack from turning by holding the balljoint lock
washer with a pair of grips. Take great care
not to mark the surfaces of the rack and
balljoint.
4 Remove the track rod assembly, and
discard the lock washer - a new one must be
used on refitting.
5 Examine the track rod inner balljoint for
signs of slackness or tight spots, and check
that the track rod itself is straight and free
from damage. If necessary, renew the track
rod; it is also recommended that the steering
gear gaiter/dust cover is renewed.

Refitting

6 Locate the new lock washer assembly on
the end of the steering rack, and apply a few
drops of locking fluid to the track rod inner
balljoint threads.
7 Screw the balljoint into the steering rack,
and tighten it whilst retaining the lock washer
with a pair of grips. Again, take great care not
to damage or mark the track rod balljoint or
steering rack.
8 Where a gaiter was removed, carefully slide
on the new gaiter, and locate it on the steering
gear housing. Turn the steering fully from
lock-to-lock, to check that the gaiter is
correctly positioned on the track rod, then
secure it in position with new retaining clips.

10•16 Suspension and steering

22.32 Unscrew the bolt (arrowed) securing

the pump mounting bracket to the

alternator - XU7 and XU10 engine models

with air conditioning

23.3 Track rod end locknut (arrowed)

23.4 Disconnecting the track rod end from

the hub carrier

22.33 Unscrew the rear pump securing

bolt (arrowed) - XU7 and XU10 engine

models with air conditioning

9 Where a dust cover was removed, carefully
slide on the new cover, and locate it in its
grooves on the steering rack collar and track
rod.

25 Wheel alignment and

steering angles - general
information

General

1 A car’s steering and suspension geometry
is defined in four basic settings - all angles are
expressed in degrees (toe settings are also
expressed as a measurement); the relevant
settings are camber, castor, steering axis
inclination, and toe-setting. With the
exception of front wheel toe-setting, none of
these settings are adjustable.

Front wheel toe setting -
checking and adjustment

2 Due to the special measuring equipment
necessary to accurately check the wheel
alignment, and the skill required to use it
properly, checking and adjustment is best left
to a Peugeot dealer or similar expert. Note
that most tyre-fitting shops now possess
sophisticated checking equipment. The
following is provided as a guide, should the
owner decide to carry out a DIY check.
3 The front wheel toe setting is checked by
measuring the distance between the front and
rear inside edges of the roadwheel rims.
Proprietary toe measurement gauges are
available from motor accessory shops.
Adjustment is made by screwing the balljoints
in or out of their track rods, to alter the
effective length of the track rod assemblies.
4 For accurate checking, the vehicle must be
at the kerb weight, ie unladen and with a full

tank of fuel, and the ride height must be
correct (see Section 15). Particularly note that
the suspension must be compressed to the
appropriate reference height. Accurate
checking and adjustment must be entrusted
to a Peugeot dealer. The following information
is provided for reference only.
5 Before starting work, check first that the
tyre sizes and types are as specified, then
check the tyre pressures and tread wear, the
roadwheel run-out, the condition of the hub
bearings, the steering wheel free play, and the
condition of the front suspension components
(Chapter 1). Correct any faults found.
6 Park the vehicle on level ground, check that
the front roadwheels are in the straight-ahead
position, then rock the rear and front ends to
settle the suspension. Release the handbrake,
and roll the vehicle backwards 1 metre, then
forwards again, to relieve any stresses in the
steering and suspension components.
7 Measure the distance between the front
edges of the wheel rims and the rear edges of
the rims. Subtract the rear measurement from
the front measurement, and check that the
result is within the specified range.
8 If adjustment is necessary, apply the
handbrake, then jack up the front of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Turn the steering wheel onto full-left lock, and
record the number of exposed threads on the
right-hand track rod end. Now turn the
steering onto full-right lock, and record the
number of threads on the left-hand side. If
there are the same number of threads visible
on both sides, then subsequent adjustment
should be made equally on both sides. If there
are more threads visible on one side than the
other, it will be necessary to compensate for
this during adjustment. Note: It is most
important that after adjustment, the same

number of threads are visible on each track
rod end.
9 First clean the track rod end threads; if they
are corroded, apply penetrating fluid before
starting adjustment. Release the rubber gaiter
outboard clips (where necessary), and peel
back the gaiters; apply a smear of grease to
the inside of the gaiters, so that both are free,
and will not be twisted or strained as their
respective track rods are rotated.
10 Use a straight-edge and a scriber or
similar to mark the relationship of each track
rod to its track rod end then, holding each
track rod in turn, unscrew its locknut fully.
11 Alter the length of the track rods, bearing
in mind the note made in paragraph 8. Screw
them into or out of the track rod ends, rotating
the track rod using an open-ended spanner
fitted to the flats provided. Shortening the
track rods (screwing them into their balljoints)
will reduce toe-in/increase toe-out.
12 When the setting is correct, hold the track
rods and securely tighten the track rod end
locknuts. Check that the balljoints are seated
correctly in their sockets, and count the
exposed threads to check the length of both
track rods. If they are not the same, then the
adjustment has not been made equally, and
problems will be encountered with tyre
scrubbing in turns; also, the steering wheel
spokes will no longer be horizontal when the
wheels are in the straight-ahead position.
13 If the track rod lengths are the same,
lower the vehicle to the ground and re-check
the toe setting; re-adjust if necessary. When
the setting is correct, securely tighten the
track rod end locknuts. Ensure that the rubber
gaiters are seated correctly, and are not
twisted or strained, and secure them in
position with new retaining clips (where
necessary).

Suspension and steering 10•17

Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings

Body exterior fittings - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Body front panel assembly - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Bonnet lock - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Bonnet release cable - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Boot lid (Saloon models) - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . .16
Boot lid lock components (Saloon models) - removal and refitting  . .17
Centre console - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Central locking components - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Door - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Door handle and lock components - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . .14
Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Door window glass and regulator - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . .15
Electric window components - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Exterior mirrors and associated components - removal and refitting  . .22
Facia assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Front bumper - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
General information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Interior trim - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Maintenance - bodywork and underframe  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Maintenance - upholstery and carpets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Major body damage - repair  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Minor body damage - repair  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Rear bumper - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Seat belt components - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Seats - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Sunroof - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Tailgate and support struts (Estate models) -

removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Tailgate lock components (Estate models) - removal and refitting . .19
Windscreen, tailgate and fixed window glass - general information . .23

11•1

Contents

General information

The bodyshell is made of pressed steel

sections, and is available in 4-door Saloon
and 5-door Estate configuration. Most
components are welded together, but some
use is made of structural adhesives. The front
wings are bolted on.

The bonnet, doors and some other

vulnerable panels are made of zinc-coated
metal, and are further protected by being
coated with an anti-chip primer prior to being
sprayed.

Extensive use is made of plastic materials,

mainly in the interior, but also in exterior
components. The front and rear bumpers and
the front grille are injection-moulded from a
synthetic material which is very strong, and
yet light. Plastic components such as wheel
arch liners are fitted to the underside of the
vehicle, to improve the body’s resistance to
corrosion.

Maintenance -
bodywork and underframe

The general condition of a vehicle’s

bodywork is the one thing that significantly

affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those parts
of the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheel
arches, and the lower part of the engine
compartment.

The basic maintenance routine for the

bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Strangely
enough, the best time to clean the underframe
and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the
mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically, and this is
a good time for inspection.

Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-

based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the
underframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned,
engine compartment included, so that a
thorough inspection can be carried out to see
what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary. Steam-cleaning is available at

many garages, and is necessary for the
removal of the accumulation of oily grime,
which sometimes is allowed to become thick
in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are one or two excellent
grease solvents available, which can be
brush-applied; the dirt can then be simply
hosed off. Note that these methods should
not be used on vehicles with wax-based
underbody protective coating, or the coating
will be removed. Such vehicles should be
inspected annually, preferably just prior to
Winter, when the underbody should be
washed down, and any damage to the wax
coating repaired. Ideally, a completely fresh
coat should be applied. It would also be worth
considering the use of such wax-based
protection for injection into door panels, sills,
box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard
against rust damage, where such protection is
not provided by the vehicle manufacturer.

After washing paintwork, wipe off with a

chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish
will give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen
has dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to
be taken with metallic paintwork, as special
non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional

Degrees of difficulty

avoid damage to the finish. Always check that
the door and ventilator opening drain holes
and pipes are completely clear, so that water
can be drained out. Brightwork should be
treated in the same way as paintwork.
Windscreens and windows can be kept clear
of the smeary film which often appears, by the
use of proprietary glass cleaner. Never use
any form of wax or other body or chromium
polish on glass.

Maintenance -
upholstery and carpets

Mats and carpets should be brushed or

vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free
of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,
and make quite sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be
kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they
do become stained (which can be more
apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a
little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to
scour the grime out of the grain of the
material. Do not forget to keep the headlining
clean in the same way as the upholstery.
When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle,
do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned.
Excessive damp could get into the seams and
padded interior, causing stains, offensive
odours or even rot. If the inside of the vehicle
gets wet accidentally, it is worthwhile taking
some trouble to dry it out properly, particularly
where carpets are involved. Do not leave oil or
electric heaters inside the vehicle for this
purpose.

Minor body damage - repair

Repairs of
minor scratches in bodywork

If the scratch is very superficial, and does

not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint
from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.

Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a

fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.

Where the scratch has penetrated right

through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique

is required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint, to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners, to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of
the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.

Repairs of dents in bodywork

When deep denting of the vehicle’s

bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is
better to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 3 mm below the level of
the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being
“belled-out”.

Should the dent be in a section of the

bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.

The next stage of the repair is the removal

of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a really good “key” for
the filler paste.

To complete the repair, see the Section on

filling and respraying.

Repairs of rust holes
or gashes in bodywork

Remove all paint from the affected area,

and from an inch or so of the surrounding
“sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a
wire brush on a power drill. If these are not
available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job most effectively. With the paint
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide
whether to renew the whole panel (if this is
possible) or to repair the affected area. New
body panels are not as expensive as most
people think, and it is often quicker and more
satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt
to repair large areas of corrosion.

Remove all fittings from the affected area,

except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlamp shells etc). Then, using tin snips or
a hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in
order to create a slight depression for the filler
paste.

Wire-brush the affected area to remove the

powdery rust from the surface of the
remaining metal. Paint the affected area with
rust-inhibiting paint; if the back of the rusted
area is accessible, treat this also.

Before filling can take place, it will be

necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.

Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre

matting is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.

Aluminium tape should be used for small or

very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim
it to the approximate size and shape required,
then pull off the backing paper (if used) and
stick the tape over the hole; it can be
overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.

Bodywork repairs -
filling and respraying

Before using this Section, see the Sections

on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.

Many types of bodyfiller are available, but

generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair.
A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will
be found invaluable for imparting a smooth
and well-contoured finish to the surface of the
filler.

11•2 Bodywork and fittings

Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card

or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long, the paste will become sticky and begin
to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to
add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute
intervals, until the level of the filler is just
proud of the surrounding bodywork.

Once the filler has hardened, the excess

can be removed using a metal plane or file.
From then on, progressively-finer grades of
abrasive paper should be used, starting with a
40-grade production paper, and finishing with
a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of
the filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-
dry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.

At this stage, the “dent” should be

surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.

Spray the whole area with a light coat of

primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is
used, it can be mixed with cellulose thinners,
to form a really thin paste which is ideal for
filling small holes. Repeat this spray-and-
repair procedure until you are satisfied that
the surface of the filler, and the feathered
edge of the paintwork, are perfect. Clean the
repair area with clean water, and allow to dry
fully.

The repair area is now ready for final

spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations.

Before commencing to spray, agitate the

aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint, rather
than one thick one. Using 400 grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused with
water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint.

Spray on the top coat, again building up the

thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying in the centre of the repair area,
and then, using a circular motion, work
outwards until the whole repair area and
about 2 inches of the surrounding original
paintwork is covered. Remove all masking
material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on
the final coat of paint.

Allow the new paint at least two weeks to

harden, then, using a paintwork renovator or a
very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the
paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply
wax polish.

Plastic components

With the use of more and more plastic body

components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg
bumpers. spoilers, and in some cases major
body panels), rectification of more serious
damage to such items has become a matter
of either entrusting repair work to a specialist
in this field, or renewing complete
components. Repair of such damage by the
DIY owner is not really feasible, owing to the
cost of the equipment and materials required
for effecting such repairs. The basic technique
involves making a groove along the line of the
crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in a
power drill. The damaged part is then welded
back together, using a hot air gun to heat up
and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.
Any excess plastic is then removed, and the
area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is
important that a filler rod of the correct plastic
is used, as body components can be made of
a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,
ABS, polypropylene).

Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,

minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair.
Once mixed in equal parts, this is used in
similar fashion to the bodywork filler used on
metal panels. The filler is usually cured in
twenty to thirty minutes, ready for sanding
and painting.

If the owner is renewing a complete

component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will be left with the
problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing
which is compatible with the type of plastic
used. At one time, the use of a universal paint
was not possible, owing to the complex range
of plastics encountered in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally

speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber
satisfactorily, but suitable paints to match any
plastic or rubber finish, can be obtained from
dealers. However, it is now possible to obtain
a plastic body parts finishing kit which
consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer
and coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the
method of use is to first apply the pre-primer
to the component concerned, and allow it to
dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is
applied, and left to dry for about an hour
before finally applying the special-coloured
top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured
component, where the paint will flex with the
plastic or rubber, a property that standard
paint does not normally posses.

Major body damage - repair

Where serious damage has occurred, or

large areas need renewal due to neglect, it
means that complete new panels will need
welding-in, and this is best left to
professionals. If the damage is due to impact,
it will also be necessary to check completely
the alignment of the bodyshell, and this can
only be carried out accurately by a Peugeot
dealer using special jigs. If the body is left
misaligned, it is primarily dangerous, as the
car will not handle properly, and secondly,
uneven stresses will be imposed on the
steering, suspension and possibly
transmission, causing abnormal wear, or
complete failure, particularly to such items as
the tyres.

Front bumper -
removal and refitting

Removal

1 Working at the bottom of the bumper,
remove the three lower bumper securing
screws (see illustration).
2 Working on one side of the vehicle, remove
the three screws securing the outer edge of
the wheel arch liner, then pull the liner back
from the bumper.

Bodywork and fittings 11•3

6.1 Front bumper lower securing screw

3 Unscrew the two bumper front securing
nuts (see illustration).
4 Unscrew the bolt securing the side of the
bumper to the wing panel (see illustration).
5 Repeat the procedure in paragraphs 2 to 4
on the remaining side of the vehicle.
6 Pull the bumper forwards and, where
applicable, disconnect the front foglight wiring
harness and/or the headlight washer fluid
hose. Note the routing of the wiring and/or
hose.
7 Remove the bumper.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal but, where
applicable, ensure that the foglight wiring
and/or washer fluid hose are correctly routed.

Rear bumper -
removal and refitting

Saloon models

Removal

1 To improve access, chock the front wheels,
then jack up the rear of the vehicle and
support securely on axle stands (see “Jacking
and Vehicle Support”).
2 Remove the fixings, and withdraw the rear
wheel arch liners (access to the fixings can be
improved by removing the rear roadwheels)
(see illustration).
3 Unscrew the bumper side securing bolts
(one bolt on each side).

4 Working under the bottom of the bumper,
unscrew the two lower securing bolts.
5 Working in the luggage compartment,
locate the number plate light wiring
connector, next to the left-hand rear light
assembly, and separate the two halves of the
connector.
6 Pull the carpet trim panel away from the
rear edge of the luggage compartment to
expose the two remaining bumper securing
bolts.
7 Pull the bumper rearwards, and feed the
number plate light wiring harness through the
grommet in the rear body panel.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Estate models

Removal

9 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 and 2.

10 On models with rear underbody shields
fitted under the sides of the bumper, release
the exhaust system from its rear mounting
(loosen the clamp if necessary), then lower the
rear of the system for access to the left-hand
rear underbody shield.
11 Where applicable, remove the rear
underbody shield(s) to expose the bumper
side fixing bolts (see illustration).
12 Unscrew the bumper side securing bolts
(one bolt on each side) (see illustration).
13 Unscrew the two bolts on each side,
securing the bumper to the underbody
brackets, then pull the bumper rearwards
from the vehicle (see illustration).

Refitting

14 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Bonnet - removal, refitting and
adjustment

Removal

1 Open the bonnet and have an assistant
support it, then, using a pencil or felt tip pen,
mark the outline position of each bonnet hinge
relative to the bonnet, to use as a guide on
refitting.
2 Where applicable, unbolt the earth strap
from the bonnet.
3 Unscrew the bonnet bolts and, with the
help of the assistant, carefully lift the bonnet
from the vehicle (see illustration). Store the
bonnet out of the way in a safe place.

11•4 Bodywork and fittings

6.3 Front bumper front securing nuts

(arrowed)

7.2 Removing a

rear wheel arch liner

7.13 Rear bumper side securing bolts

(arrowed) - Estate model

7.12 Rear bumper side securing bolt

(arrowed) - Estate model

7.11 Rear underbody shield securing clip

(arrowed) - Estate model

6.4 Front bumper side securing bolt

(arrowed)

8.3 Hinge-to-bonnet bolts (A)

and hinge-to-body bolts (B)

4 Inspect the bonnet hinges for signs of wear
and free play at the pivots, and if necessary
renew. Each hinge is secured to the body by
two bolts. On refitting, apply a smear of multi-
purpose grease to the hinges.

Refitting and adjustment

5 With the aid of an assistant, offer up the
bonnet and loosely fit the retaining bolts. Align
the hinges with the marks made on removal,
then tighten the retaining bolts securely.
6 Close the bonnet, and check for alignment
with the adjacent panels. If necessary,
slacken the hinge bolts and re-align the
bonnet to suit. Once the bonnet is correctly
aligned, tighten the hinge bolts. Note that the
alignment of the bonnet can also be adjusted
using the rubber bump stops fitted to the
body front panel. To adjust a bump stop,
loosen the locknut, then turn the buffer as
required, and tighten the locknut.
7 Once the bonnet is correctly aligned, check
that the bonnet fastens and releases in a
satisfactory manner. If adjustment is
necessary, slacken the bonnet striker lock nut
and adjust the position of the striker to suit.
Once the lock is operating correctly, securely
tighten the striker lock nut.

Bonnet release cable -
removal and refitting

General

1 The cable consists of two parts, joined at a
connecting plate in the engine compartment.
The release lever may be mounted on the left-
or right-hand side of the facia, depending on
model.

Release lever-to-connecting plate
cable - models with release lever on
right-hand side of facia

Removal
2 Working inside the vehicle, release the
securing clips and drop the fusebox panel
down from the facia.
3 Remove the two bolts securing the bonnet
release lever to the bracket under the facia
(see illustration).

4 Working in the engine compartment, locate
the cable connecting plate, positioned behind
the body front panel, above the radiator.
5 Where applicable, remove the anti-squeal
foam from the cable connector, then disconnect
the cable from the connector (see illustration).
6 Work around the engine compartment, and
release the cable from any clips and brackets.
7 Tie a length of string to the end of the cable
in the engine compartment, then pull the
cable through into the vehicle interior, noting
its routing.
8 Untie the string from the end of the cable,
and leave it in position to aid refitting.
Refitting
9 Commence refitting by tying the end of the
new cable to the string in the vehicle interior.
10 Use the string to pull the cable through
into the engine compartment, routing it as
noted before removal.
11 Make sure that the bulkhead grommet is
securely seated in the bulkhead aperture.
12 Further refitting is a reversal of removal.

Release lever-to-connecting plate
cable - models with release lever on
left-hand side of facia

Removal
13 Working under the facia, remove the
release lever securing bolt, and withdraw the
lever from the side of the footwell.
14 Proceed as described previously in
paragraphs 4 to 8.
Refitting
15 Proceed as described previously in
paragraphs 9 to 12.

Connecting plate-to-lock cable

Removal
16 Working in the engine compartment,
locate the cable connecting plate, which is
positioned at the front of the engine
compartment.
17 Where applicable, remove the anti-squeal
foam from the cable connector, then
disconnect the release lever cable from the
connector.
18 Disconnect the end of the cable from the
lock, then unclip the cable outer from the
bracket on the lock, release the cable from
any clips on the body, and withdraw the
cable, noting its routing. If desired, access to

the lock can be improved by removing the
front grille panel (see Section 25).
Refitting
19 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

10 Bonnet lock -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Open the bonnet.
2 Unscrew the two securing bolts, then
withdraw the lock and disconnect the end of
the release cable from the lock lever (see
illustration).

Refitting

3 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on
completion, the operation of the lock.
4 If necessary, adjust the position of the lock
striker on the bonnet (loosen the locknut to
enable the striker to be moved), until the lock
operation is satisfactory.

11 Body front panel assembly -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Open the bonnet.
2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3 To improve access, apply the handbrake,
then jack up the front of the vehicle an
support securely on axle stands (see “Jacking
and Vehicle Support”).
4 Remove the front wheel arch liners, with
reference to Section 25.

Bodywork and fittings 11•5

10.2 Bonnet lock securing bolts (arrowed)

9.5 Disconnecting the bonnet release

cable from the connector behind

the front body panel

9.3 Bonnet release lever

securing bolts (arrowed) -

lever mounted on right-hand side

Warning: On models equipped
with air conditioning, the bolts
securing the condenser and the
reservoir to the front panel must

be removed. Where the front panel is
being removed to enable engine removal,
the compressor must also be unbolted
from the engine, which will then allow the
complete assembly to be moved clear for
engine removal. Do not disconnect any
refrigerant pipelines unless the system
has been recharged - refer to the
precautions given in Chapter 3.

5 Remove the front bumper, as described in
Section 6.
6 Remove the front direction indicator lights,
as described in Chapter 12.
7 Disconnect the front light wiring
connectors, located at each front corner of
the engine compartment on models up to
1992, or in the right-hand corner of the engine
compartment on models from 1993 (see
illustrations).
8 Unbolt the earth leads from the front
corners of the engine compartment (see
illustration).
9 Where applicable, remove the headlight
adjusters from the brackets on the front panel,
with reference to Chapter 12.
10 Where applicable, disconnect the
headlight washer tubes.
11 Locate the bonnet release cable
connecting plate, which is positioned at the
top of the body front panel. Where applicable,

remove the anti-squeal foam from the cable
connector, then disconnect the release lever
cable from the connector. Unclip the cable
from the front panel assembly.
12 Unscrew the bolts securing the bottom of
the front panel to the lower crossmember -
there may be two or three bolts, depending on
model (see illustration).
13 Remove the radiator as described in
Chapter 3, but note that provided the radiator
is adequately supported in the engine
compartment, there is no need to disconnect
the coolant hoses (this will avoid the need to
drain the cooling system).
14 Remove the two upper securing bolts
from each end of the front panel (see
illustration).
15 Carefully release the clips securing the
lower headlight trim strips to the front wings.
16 Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wiring has been disconnected to
enable removal of the front panel assembly,
then withdraw the assembly forwards from
the front of the vehicle (see illustration).

Refitting

17 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

12 Door - removal, refitting and

adjustment

Removal

1 The door hinges are welded to the body
pillar, and bolted to the door.

2 Where applicable, prise the plastic caps
from the hinge pins.
3 Using a pin-punch, drive the roll-pin from
the door check strap (see illustration).
4 On models with electrical components
inside the door, remove the door trim panel
with reference to Section 13. Working inside
the door, disconnect all the wiring harness
plugs, then feed the wiring through the hole
in the front edge of the door. Note the routing
of the wiring harness to ensure correct
refitting.
5 The door must now be supported in the
fully open position.

12.3 Drive the roll-pin (arrowed) from the

door check strap

11.16 Withdrawing the body front panel

assembly

11•6 Bodywork and fittings

11.7a Disconnecting the front light wiring

connectors - models up to 1992

11.7c . . . and disconnect the plug from the

terminal block - models from 1993

11.14 Unscrew the body front panel

upper securing bolts

11.12 Removing a body front panel

lower securing bolt

11.8 Unbolt the earth leads from the

corners of the engine compartment

11.7b Disconnect the front light wiring

connectors (arrowed) . . .

Support the door by placing
blocks of wood, or a jack
and block of wood, under its
lower edge.

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