Peugeot 405 Haynes (petrol). Manual - part 23

15 Unscrew the securing bolt, and remove
the sensor from the trailing arm (see
illustration).

Refitting

16 Before refitting a sensor, ensure that the
tip is clean. Where applicable, on new sensors
remove the protective sticker from the tip.
17 Lightly grease the sensor location in the
trailing arm, then refit the sensor.
18 Clean the sensor securing bolt, then apply
thread-locking compound to the bolt threads.
Fit the bolt and tighten to the specified torque.

Electronic control unit -
Bendix ABS systems

Removal

19 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
20 The unit is located in the scuttle at the rear
of the engine compartment (see illustration).
21 Open the bonnet, and unclip the cover
from the top of the scuttle to expose the
control unit.
22 Release the securing clip, and disconnect
the wiring plug from the top of the control unit.
23 Unscrew the clamp bolts or nuts, as
applicable, securing the unit to the housing,
then carefully withdraw the unit. Note that on
some models, it may be necessary to
disconnect the control unit wiring harness
earth lead before the unit can be withdrawn.
24 Where applicable, separate the control
unit from the mounting bracket.

Refitting

25 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
where applicable ensure that the wiring
harness earth lead is securely reconnected.

Electronic control unit -
Bosch ABS system

Removal

26 Disconnect the battery negative lead, then

unclip the control unit cover from the top of
the modulator assembly.
27 Disconnect the three wiring connectors
from the control unit, then slacken and
remove the six Torx retaining screws, and lift
the control unit away from the modulator
assembly (see illustration).

Refitting

28 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the wiring connectors
are securely reconnected, and do not
overtighten the retaining screws.

Hydraulic control unit
and modulator assembly -
Bendix “integral” ABS

Note: Refer to the Warning in Section 23.
29 No attempt should be made to remove
any of the hydraulic system components on
models equipped with the Bendix “integral”
ABS - refer the operation to a Peugeot dealer.

Modulator assembly -
Bendix “additional” ABS

Removal

30 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

31 Where applicable, unclip the plastic
cover, then disconnect the wiring connectors
from the modulator assembly.
32 Mark the locations of the hydraulic fluid
pipes to ensure correct refitting, then unscrew
the union nuts, and disconnect the pipes from
the modulator assembly. Be prepared for fluid
spillage, and plug the open ends of the pipes
and the modulator, to prevent dirt ingress and
further fluid loss. Note the position of the clip
on the brake pipes to ensure correct refitting.
33 Working under the modulator, unscrew
the two nuts securing the vertical mounting
plate to the main bracket (see illustration).
Withdraw the plate and the mounting rubber
assembly.
34 Unscrew the two nuts securing the
remaining mounting studs to the main
bracket, then manipulate the modulator
assembly from the bracket.

Refitting

35 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following.

a) Before refitting, examine the mounting

rubbers, and renew if necessary.

b) Reconnect the fluid pipes to the

assembly, as noted before removal,
ensuring that no dirt enters the system.
Ensure that the brake pipe clip is fitted as
noted before removal.

c) Before reconnecting the wiring

connectors, bleed the complete hydraulic
system as described in Section 2.

Modulator assembly -
Bosch ABS

36 Refer to paragraphs 30 to 35 of this
Section for the Bendix “additional” ABS.

9•20 Braking system

24.15 Rear wheel ABS sensor (arrowed)

24.27 Bosch ABS

electronic control unit

securing screws (arrowed)

24.33 Modulator assembly vertical

mounting bracket-to-main bracket nuts

(arrowed) - Bendix “additional” ABS

24.20 Electronic control unit location

(arrowed) - Bendix “integral” ABS

(left-hand-drive models shown)

Warning: Do not reconnect the
wiring connectors to the
modulator until the hydraulic
circuits have been bled as
described in Section 2.

Wheel alignment and steering angles

Front wheel toe setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.0 ± 0.5 mm toe-in

Roadwheels

Type

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Pressed steel or aluminium alloy (depending on model)

Size

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5.5J x 14 or 6J x 15

Torque wrench settings

lbf ft

Front suspension

Hub carrier-to-suspension strut clamp nut/bolt:*

Early (solid) type hub carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Later (hollow) type hub carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Suspension strut top mounting nuts:

Models up to 1992 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Models from 1993 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Suspension strut upper mounting retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Lower balljoint nut (hub carrier-to-lower arm):*

Early (solid) type hub carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Later (hollow) type hub carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Lower arm front pivot nut/bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Lower arm rear securing nuts/bolts

Models up to 1992 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Models from 1993 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Anti-roll bar-to-subframe clamp bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Anti-roll bar metal clamp bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Anti-roll bar drop link-to-anti-roll bar nuts/bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Anti-roll bar drop link-to-lower arm bolts:

Models up to 1992 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Models from 19943 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Subframe front securing bolts:

Models up to 1992 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Models from 1993 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Chapter 10
Suspension and steering

Front hub bearings - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Front hub carrier assembly - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Front suspension and steering check  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Front anti-roll bar components - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Front suspension lower arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Front suspension lower balljoint - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Front suspension strut - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Front suspension strut - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Front suspension subframe - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
General information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Ignition switch/steering column lock - removal and refitting  . . . . . . .18
Power steering pump - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Power steering pump drivebelt check, adjustment

andrenewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly checks”

Power steering system - bleeding  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Rear axle assembly - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Rear hub assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Rear hub bearing - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Rear shock absorber - removal, testing and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Rear suspension components - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Steering column - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Steering gear assembly - removal, overhaul and refitting  . . . . . . . . .19
Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Steering wheel - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Track rod - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Track rod end - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Vehicle ride height - checking  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Wheel alignment and steering angles - general information  . . . . . . .25
Wheel and tyre maintenance  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly checks”

10•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional

Degrees of difficulty

General information

The independent front suspension is of the

MacPherson strut type, incorporating coil
springs and integral telescopic shock
absorbers. The MacPherson struts are
located by transverse lower suspension arms,
which utilise rubber inner mounting bushes.
The front hub carriers, which carry the wheel
bearings, brake calipers and the hub/disc
assemblies, are bolted to the MacPherson
struts. The hub carriers are connected to the
lower arms via balljoints attached to the hub
carriers. A front anti-roll bar is fitted to all
models. The anti-roll bar is rubber-mounted
onto the subframe, and is connected to the
lower arms via drop links.

The rear suspension is of the semi-

independent trailing arm type, which consists
of two trailing arms, linked by a tubular
crossmember. A torsion bar is fitted
transversely between each trailing arm and
the opposite suspension side member. An
anti-roll bar is fitted between the trailing arms.
The complete rear axle assembly is mounted
onto the vehicle underbody via four rubber
mountings.

The steering column has a universal joint

fitted in the centre of its length, which is
connected to an intermediate shaft having a
second universal joint at its lower end. The
lower universal joint is clamped to the steering
gear pinion by means of a clamp bolt.

The steering gear is mounted onto the front

subframe, and is connected by two track
rods, with balljoints at their outer ends, to the
steering arms projecting rearwards from the
swivel hubs. The track rod ends are threaded,
to facilitate adjustment.

Power-assisted steering is fitted as

standard on some models, and is available as
an option on most others. The hydraulic
power steering system is powered by a belt-
driven pump, which is driven off the
crankshaft pulley.

Front hub carrier assembly -
removal and refitting

Removal

Note: All Nyloc nuts disturbed on removal
must be renewed as a matter of course. These
nuts have threads which are pre-coated with
locking compound (this is only effective once).
A balljoint separator tool will be required for
this operation.
Note: Do not allow the vehicle to rest on its
wheels with one or both driveshafts
disconnected from the swivel hubs, as
damage to the wheel bearing(s) may result. If
moving the vehicle is unavoidable, temporarily
insert the outer end of the driveshaft(s) in the
hub(s) and tighten the hub nut(s).
Note: It is recommended that a coil spring
compressor tool is used during the removal
and refitting of the hub carrier. The hub carrier

can be removed without a spring compressor,
but because of the long length of the strut
with the spring in a released state, it is difficult
to separate the hub carrier from the strut, and
unacceptable strain could be exerted on the
driveshaft joint. Do not attempt to use a make-
shift method of compressing the spring, as
there is a risk of component damage and
personal injury.
Note: Two different types of hub carrier
assembly may be fitted, depending on model.
The earlier hub carriers are solid. The later hub
carriers are hollow, and can be identified from
the hole at the top of the assembly (see
illustration 2.19a). When refitting note that
the torque wrench settings differ for the two
types of hub carrier (see “Specifications”).
Modified lower arms are fitted in conjunction
with the later hub carriers, and the early and
late type components are not interchangeable
- if components are renewed, make sure that
the correct new parts are obtained.
1 Chock the rear wheels, then firmly apply the
handbrake. Jack up the front of the vehicle,
and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking
and Vehicle Support”). Remove the
appropriate front roadwheel.
2 On models with ABS, remove the wheel
sensor as described in Chapter 9.
3 Remove the R-clip, and withdraw the
locking cap from the driveshaft retaining nut
(see illustration).
4 Refit at least two roadwheel bolts to the
front hub, and tighten them securely. Have an
assistant firmly depress the brake pedal, to
prevent the front hub from rotating, then using

Torque wrench settings

lbf ft

Front suspension (continued)

Subframe rear securing bolts:

M12 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

M14 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

150

111

Lower balljoint to hub carrier:*

Early (solid) type hub carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

260

192

Later (hollow) type hub carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

250

184

Rear suspension

Rear hub nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

275

200

Shock absorber securing nuts/ bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

110

Suspension assembly-to-rear mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Suspension assembly-to-front mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Rear suspension mounting-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Front suspension mounting-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Steering

Steering wheel securing nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Universal joint clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Steering gear-to-subframe bolts:

Models up to 1992 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Models from 1993 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Track rod end balljoint nut:*

Early (solid) type hub carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Later (hollow) type hub carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Track rod end locknut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Roadwheels

Wheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

*See note in Section 2.

10•2 Suspension and steering

a socket and extension bar, slacken and
remove the driveshaft retaining nut.
Alternatively, a tool can be fabricated from
two lengths of steel strip (one long, one short)
and a nut and bolt; the nut and bolt forming
the pivot of a forked tool. Bolt the tool to the
hub using two wheel bolts, and hold the tool
to prevent the hub from rotating as the
driveshaft nut is undone.
5 Unscrew the two bolts securing the brake
caliper/mounting bracket assembly to the
swivel hub, and slide the caliper assembly off
the disc. Recover the mounting plate, where
applicable. Using a piece of wire or string, tie
the caliper to the front suspension coil spring,
to avoid placing any strain on the hydraulic
brake hose.
6 Use chalk or paint to mark the relationship
of the disc to the hub, then remove the
screw(s) securing the brake disc to the hub,
and remove the disc. If it is tight, lightly tap its
rear face with a hide or plastic mallet.
7 Where applicable, slacken and remove the
bolt securing the wiring/hose retaining
bracket to the top of the hub carrier.
8 To ease removal of the hub carrier, fit
spring compressor tools to the coil spring on
the strut, in accordance with the
manufacturer’s instructions, and lightly
tighten the compressors. Note that the hub
carrier can be removed without using spring
compressors, but difficulty may be
encountered disconnecting hub carrier from
the lower end of the strut.
9 Unscrew the bolt securing the anti-roll bar
drop link to the lower arm.

10 Slacken and partially unscrew the track
rod end nut (unscrew the nut as far as the end
of the threads on the balljoint to prevent
damage to the threads as the joint is
released), then release the balljoint using a
balljoint separator tool. Remove the nut.
11 Similarly, slacken the lower balljoint nut
(securing the hub carrier to the lower arm),
then release the balljoint using a separator
tool (see illustration). Remove the nut.
12 Undo the nut and withdraw the hub
carrier-to-suspension strut clamp bolt, noting
that the bolt fits from the rear of the vehicle
(see illustration).
13 Where applicable, tighten the compressor
tools, and compress the spring sufficiently to
enable the lower end of the strut to be
disconnected from the hub carrier.
14 Insert a lever into the slot in the hub
carrier, and spread the slot until the hub
carrier can be released from the strut.

15 Free the hub carrier assembly from the
end of the strut, then release it from the outer
constant velocity joint splines, and remove it
from the vehicle. If necessary, tap the end of
the driveshaft (using a soft-faced mallet) to
free it from the hub carrier. Support the free,
outboard end of the driveshaft by suspending
it using wire or string - do not allow the
driveshaft to hang down under its own weight.

Refitting

16 Where applicable, fit the spring
compressor tools in position as during
removal, ensure that the driveshaft outer
constant velocity joint and hub splines are
clean, then slide the hub fully onto the
driveshaft splines.
17 Slide the hub carrier assembly fully onto
the suspension strut, aligning the slot in the
hub carrier with the lug on the base of the
strut. Also ensure that the stop boss on the
strut is in contact with the top surface of the
hub carrier (see illustration). Release the tool
used to spread the hub carrier slot.
18 Insert the hub carrier-to-suspension strut
clamp bolt from the rear side of the strut, then
fit a new nut to the clamp bolt, and tighten it
to the specified torque.
19 Two types of hub carrier may be fitted.
The later type can be identified from the hole
at the top of the assembly (see illustration).
When refitting a later type hub carrier,
proceed as follows.

a) After tightening the clamp bolt, measure

the gap between the hub carrier clamp
lugs (see illustration). The gap must not
be less than specified. If the gap is less
than specified, proceed as follows.

b) Check the condition of the lower end of

the strut. If the strut cylinder has been
crushed, the shock absorber will be
damaged, and the strut must be renewed.

c) If the strut is not damaged, but the gap

between the clamp lugs is still less than
specified, renew the hub carrier.

Suspension and steering 10•3

2.12 Hub carrier-to-suspension strut

clamp nut (arrowed)

2.19b Gap (A) on later type hub carrier

clamp lugs must not be less than 6.5 mm

2.19a Later type hub carrier with

identification hole (arrowed)

2.17 Lug (1) and stop boss (2)

on lower end of strut

2.11 Release the lower balljoint using a

balljoint separator tool

2.3 Withdraw the R-clip from the

driveshaft nut locking cap

To spread the slot in the hub
carrier, engage an 8.0 mm
Allen key or hexagon bit in
the slot, then turn the key/bit
to spread the slot.

20 Align the balljoint with the lower arm, then
fit the balljoint nut, and tighten to the specified
torque.
21 Engage the track rod balljoint in the hub
carrier, then fit a new retaining nut and tighten
it to the specified torque.
22 Refit the bolt securing the anti-roll bar
drop link to the lower arm, and tighten to the
specified torque.
23 Refit the brake disc to the hub, ensuring
that the marks made before removal are
aligned, then refit the brake caliper/mounting
bracket. Apply suitable locking fluid to the
caliper/mounting bracket bolts then, where
applicable refit the mounting plate, ensuring
that the plate is fitted so that its bend curves
away from the caliper body, and refit the
bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specified
torque.
24 Lubricate the inner face and threads of
the driveshaft retaining nut with clean engine
oil, and refit it to the end of the driveshaft. Use
the method employed on removal to prevent
the hub from rotating, and tighten the
driveshaft retaining nut to the specified torque
(see Chapter 8). Check that the hub rotates
freely.
25 Engage the locking cap with the
driveshaft nut so that one of its cut-outs is
aligned with the driveshaft hole. Secure the
cap with the R-clip.
26 Where applicable, slacken and remove
the spring compressor tools.
27 Where applicable, refit the ABS wheel
sensor as described in Chapter 9.
28 Where applicable, refit the wiring retaining
bracket to the top of the hub carrier, and
tighten its retaining bolt securely. Ensure that
the earth lead is in position beneath the bolt,
where applicable.
29 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground and tighten the
roadwheel bolts to the specified torque.

Front hub bearings - renewal

Note: The bearing is a sealed, pre-adjusted
and pre-lubricated, double-row roller type,
and is intended to last the car’s entire service
life without maintenance or attention. Never
overtighten the driveshaft nut beyond the
specified torque wrench setting in an attempt
to “adjust” the bearing.
Note: A press will be required to dismantle
and rebuild the assembly; if such a tool is not
available, a large bench vice and spacers
(such as large sockets) will serve as an
adequate substitute. The bearing’s inner races
are an interference fit on the hub; if the inner
race remains on the hub when it is pressed
out of the hub carrier, a knife-edged bearing
puller will be required to remove it.
1 Remove the hub carrier assembly as
described in Section 2.
2 Support the hub carrier securely on blocks

or in a vice. Using a tubular spacer which
bears only on the inner end of the hub flange,
press the hub flange out of the bearing. If the
bearing’s outboard inner race remains on the
hub, remove it using a bearing puller (see note
above).
3 Extract the bearing retaining circlip from the
inner end of the hub carrier assembly (see
illustration).
4 Where necessary, refit the inner race back
in position over the ball cage, and securely
support the inner face of the hub carrier.
Using a tubular spacer which bears only on
the inner race, press the complete bearing
assembly out of the hub carrier.
5 Thoroughly clean the hub and hub carrier,
removing all traces of dirt and grease, and
polish away any burrs or raised edges which
might hinder reassembly. Check both for
cracks or any other signs of wear or damage,
and renew them if necessary. Renew the
circlip, regardless of its apparent condition.
6 On reassembly, apply a light film of oil to
the bearing outer race and hub flange shaft, to
aid installation of the bearing.
7 Securely support the hub carrier, and locate
the bearing in the hub. Press the bearing fully
into position, ensuring that it enters the hub
squarely, using a tubular spacer which bears
only on the bearing outer race.
8 Once the bearing is correctly seated,
secure the bearing in position with the new
circlip, ensuring that it is correctly located in
the groove in the hub carrier.
9 Securely support the outer face of the hub
flange, and locate the hub carrier bearing
inner race over the end of the hub flange.

Press the bearing onto the hub, using a
tubular spacer which bears only on the inner
race of the hub bearing, until it seats against
the hub shoulder. Check that the hub flange
rotates freely, and wipe off any excess oil or
grease.
10 Refit the hub carrier assembly as
described in Section 2.

Front suspension strut -
removal and refitting

Removal

Note: All Nyloc nuts disturbed on removal
must be renewed as a matter of course. These
nuts have threads which are pre-coated with
locking compound (this is only effective once).
Note: It is recommended that a coil spring
compressor tool is used during the removal
and refitting of the strut. The strut can be
removed without a spring compressor, but
because of the long length of the strut with the
spring in a released state, it is difficult to
separate the hub carrier from the strut, and
unacceptable strain could be exerted on the
driveshaft joint. Do not attempt to use a make-
shift method of compressing the spring, as
there is a risk of component damage and
personal injury.
1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the
handbrake, then jack up the front of the
vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the
appropriate roadwheel.
2 Working in the engine compartment, were
applicable remove the plastic cover from the
strut top mounting, then slacken but do not
remove the two strut top mounting nuts (see
illustration).
3 Where applicable, unclip any wiring and/or
hoses from the strut.
4 Unscrew the bolt securing the anti-roll bar
drop link to the strut.
5 Undo the nut and withdraw the hub carrier-
to-suspension strut clamp bolt, noting that the
bolt fits from the rear of the strut (see
illustration). Discard the nut - a new one must
be used on refitting.
6 To ease removal of the hub carrier, fit spring
compressor tools to the coil spring on the strut,

10•4 Suspension and steering

3.3 Front hub bearing retaining circlip

(arrowed)

4.5 Unscrewing the hub carrier-to-

suspension strut clamp bolt

4.2 Suspension strut top mounting nuts

(arrowed)

in accordance with the manufacturer’s
instructions, and lightly tighten the
compressors. Note that the strut can be
removed without using spring compressors, but
difficulty may be encountered disconnecting
hub carrier from the lower end of the strut.
7 Insert a lever into the slot in the hub carrier,
and spread the slot until the hub carrier can
be released from the strut.

8 Free the hub carrier from the strut, then
remove the two strut top mounting nuts, and
withdraw the strut from under the wheel arch.

Refitting

9 Where applicable, fit the coil spring
compressors as during removal, then
manoeuvre the strut assembly into position.
Feed the top mounting studs through the
holes in the body, and fit the mounting nuts.
10 Engage the lower end of the strut with the
hub carrier. Align the slot in the hub carrier
with the lug on the base of the strut. Also
ensure that the stop bosses on the strut are in
contact with the top surface of the hub carrier.
Release the tool used to spread the hub
carrier slot.
11 Insert the hub carrier-to-suspension strut
clamp bolt from the rear side of the strut, then
fit a new nut to the clamp bolt, and tighten it
to the specified torque.

12 Refit the bolt securing the anti-roll bar
drop link to the strut.
13 Tighten the two strut top mounting nuts to
the specified torque.
14 Where applicable, carefully slacken and
then remove the spring compressors.
15 Where applicable, clip any wiring/hoses
into position on the strut.
16 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground and tighten the
roadwheel bolts to the specified torque.

Front suspension strut -
overhaul

Note: The components encountered may vary
in detail, but the principles described in the
following paragraphs are equally applicable to
all models. Make a careful note of the fitted
positions of all components before
dismantling.
1 With the strut removed as described in
Section 4, clean the exterior of the unit, then
mount it in a soft-jawed vice.

2 If not already done, fit coil spring
compressors in accordance with the
manufacturer’s instructions, and compress
the spring until the pressure on the top
mounting is relieved.
3 Unscrew the top mounting nut. Use a ring
spanner to unscrew the nut, and counterhold
the piston rod using a 7.0 mm Allen key (see
illustration).
4 Remove the nut and recover the washer,
then lift off the cupped washer, mounting
plate, rubber buffer, and the two dished
plates.
5 Lift off the upper spring seat.
6 Withdraw the washer and the rubber gaiter.
7 Remove the bump stop.
8 Remove the coil spring. If the spring is to be
renewed, remove the compressors, otherwise
leave them in position for reassembly.
9 Inspect the strut for signs of leakage from
the piston rod seal. With the strut held
vertically, operate the piston over its full range
of movement in both directions, checking that
the resistance is even and firm. If the
resistance is weak or jerky, if there is any fluid
seepage, or if there is any damage to the strut
or corrosion of the piston rod, then strut must
be renewed. Note that struts should always
be renewed in pairs. At the same time, check
the coil spring for condition, and any signs of
distortion or damage. If spring renewal is
necessary, again note that both front springs
should be renewed as a pair.
10 Reassemble the strut using a reversal of
the dismantling procedure, and following the
accompanying illustration sequence (see
illustrations 5.10a to 5.10l).

Suspension and steering 10•5

5.10b . . . making sure the lower end of the

spring locates against the stop (arrowed)

5.10e . . . and the washer . . .

5.10c Refit the bump stop . . .

5.10d . . . followed by the rubber gaiter . . .

5.10a Refit the coil spring, with the

compressors in position . . .

5.3 Counterhold the piston rod and

unscrew the top mounting nut

To spread the slot in the hub
carrier, engage an 8.0 mm
Allen key or hexagon bit in
the slot, then turn the
key/bit to spread the slot.

Warning: Before attempting to
dismantle the front suspension
strut, a suitable tool to hold the
coil spring in compression must

be obtained. Adjustable coil spring
compressors are readily-available, and are
recommended for this operation. Any
attempt to dismantle the strut without
such a tool is likely to result in damage or
personal injury.

Front suspension
lower arm -
removal, overhaul and refitting

Removal

Note: All Nyloc nuts disturbed on removal
must be renewed as a matter of course. These
nuts have threads which are pre-coated with
locking compound (this is only effective once).
A balljoint separator tool will be required for
this operation.
Note: Two different types of hub carrier
assembly may be fitted, depending on model.
The earlier hub carriers are solid. The later hub
carriers are hollow, and can be identified from
the hole at the top of the assembly (see
illustration 2.19a). When refitting note that
the torque wrench settings differ for the two
types of hub carrier (see “Specifications”).
Modified lower arms are fitted in conjunction
with the later hub carriers, and the early and
late type components are not interchangeable

- if components are renewed, make sure that
the correct new parts are obtained.
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the
relevant roadwheel.
2 Remove the bolt securing the anti-roll bar
drop link to the lower arm (see illustration).
3 Slacken and partially unscrew the lower
balljoint nut (unscrew the nut as far as the end
of the threads on the balljoint to prevent
damage to the threads as the joint is
released), then release the balljoint using a
balljoint separator tool. Remove the nut.
4 Counterhold the nut, and unscrew the lower
arm front pivot bolt (see illustration).
Withdraw the bolt.
5 Unscrew the two lower arm rear securing
nuts (see illustration).
6 Working at the rear of the subframe, loosen
the two subframe rear mounting bolts to allow
the rear of the subframe to be lowered

sufficiently for the lower arm rear clamp studs
to clear the subframe (approximately 10.0
mm). Note that the subframe bolts may be
covered by plastic plugs on certain models
(see illustration 6.5).
7 Withdraw the lower arm.

6.2 Remove the bolt securing the

anti-roll bar drop link to the lower arm

5.10l . . . and the plain washer and nut

6.4 Lower arm front pivot nut

(arrowed)

6.5 Lower arm rear securing nuts (A)

and subframe rear mounting bolt (B)

10•6 Suspension and steering

5.10f . . . fit the upper spring seat,

followed by . . .

5.10h . . . and upper dished plates . . .

5.10k . . . the cupped washer . . .

5.10j . . . the mounting plate . . .

5.10i . . . the rubber buffer . . .

5.10g . . . the lower . . .

Overhaul

8 Thoroughly clean the lower arm and the
area around the arm mountings, removing all
traces of dirt and underseal if necessary, then
check carefully for cracks, distortion or any
other signs of wear or damage, paying
particular attention to the mounting bushes,
and renew components as necessary.
9 Examine the shank of the pivot bolt for
signs of wear or scoring, and renew if
necessary.
10 Examine the mounting bushes for
deterioration or damage.
11 The mounting bushes can be renewed,
but a press or suitable alternative tools will be
required. If the rear mounting bush is
renewed, it must be pressed into the position
shown, and the marks on the bush and the
lower arm must be aligned. Note that some
bushes have two alignment marks, in which
case the mark nearest the bolt hole should be
ignored. Use a little silicon lubricant to aid
fitting of the bushes (see illustrations).

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.

a) Renew all Nyloc nuts.
b) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.
c) On completion, have the front wheel

alignment checked at the earliest
opportunity with reference to Section 25.

Front suspension lower
balljoint - removal and
refitting

Note: Peugeot special tool (-).0615.J will be
required to unscrew and tighten the balljoint. If
this tool is not available, the task should be
entrusted to a Peugeot dealer. Do not attempt
the work using an improvised tool.

Removal

1 Remove the hub carrier as described in
Section 2.
2 Tap the dust shield from the balljoint, using
a drift (see illustration).
3 Fit the special tool (-).0615.J to the balljoint,
engaging the tool with the cut-outs in the
balljoint, and secure it by screwing the tool
locknut onto the threaded section of the
balljoint (see illustration). Engage a swing bar
or wrench with the tool, and unscrew the
balljoint.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.

a) Tighten the balljoint as far as possible by

hand before finally tightening to the
specified torque using the special tool.

b) Take care not to damage the balljoint

rubber gaiter during fitting.

c) Lock the balljoint in position by staking

into one of the notches in the hub carrier.

d) Lock the dust shield in position by staking

it in one of the cut-outs in the balljoint.

e) Refit the hub carrier as described in

Section 2.

Front anti-roll bar
components -
removal and refitting

Anti-roll bar

Removal

Note: All Nyloc nuts disturbed on removal
must be renewed as a matter of course. These
nuts have threads which are pre-coated with
locking compound (this is only effective once).
Note:

After refitting, the anti-roll bar

adjustment should be checked by a Peugeot
dealer at the earliest opportunity (the
suspension must be compressed using
special equipment in order to carry out the
check).
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the
roadwheels.
2 Remove the bolts securing the anti-roll bar
drop links to the lower arms.
3 Unscrew the bolts securing the drop links
to the ends of the anti-roll bar, and withdraw
the drop links (see illustration). If necessary,
counterhold the ends of the drop links using a
suitable Allen key or hexagon bit.
4 Make (horizontal) alignment marks between
the anti-roll bar and the clamps securing the
anti-roll bar to the subframe, so that the anti-
roll bar can be fitted in exactly the same
position.
5 Unscrew the clamp bolts, then withdraw
the clamp assemblies. Recover the spacers.
Note that there is no need to remove the
metal clamps (fitted on the bar, at the inside
edges of the main clamps), which prevent the
anti-roll bar from moving laterally (see
illustration).
6 Manipulate the anti-roll bar out from under
the vehicle. Note that it may be necessary to
loosen the two subframe rear mounting bolts
to allow the rear of the subframe to be
lowered sufficiently to allow clearance to
remove the anti-roll bar. Note that the

Suspension and steering 10•7

7.2 Tap the dust shield (arrowed)

from the balljoint

a Area to apply lubricant
b & c Alignment marks
d Ignore

A Bush assembly
B Area to apply lubricant
X = 254.0 mm

8.3 Removing an anti-roll bar drop link

7.3 Peugeot special tool for removing

front suspension lower balljoint

6.11b Alignment marks on lower arm rear

mounting bush

6.11a Lower arm rear mounting bush

fitting position

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