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Hummer H1 (2002+). Manual - part 160

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Body 10-11

05745159

Figure 10-9: Damaged Body Area

Figure 10-10: Sideview of Doubler

Fiberglass Repair

General Information

The HUMMER hood and engine access cover are made of fi-
berglass (sheet molding compound). Crack, splits, or holes
may be repaired with a glass reinforced plastic laminate repair
kit.

Inspection

NOTE:

Hood surface has a thin layer of gel coat that may ap-

pear cracked in a spider web-like pattern due to hood flexing.
No repair is required.

Examine cracks to determine if they are on surface only, or
are deep breaks into material thickness.

If filler material chips off at bonding flanges, and appears
as cracked but not broken through, the area need not
be repaired.

If total penetration crack greater than 1 in. (25.4 mm)
exists in critical areas: hinges, latches, or hood stop areas,
repair immediately (Figure 10-11).

If total penetration cracks exist in noncritical areas, do not
repair until size is greater than 3 in. (76 mm).

If severe breaks develop in one area, remove fragmented
material and use repair procedure for holes.

Figure 10-11: Hood Stop and Hinge

DAMAGED AREA

MATERIAL

DOUBLER

HOOD STOP

LATCH

HINGE

10-12

Body

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Repair

Repairing cracks or splits.

WARNING: When sanding fiberglass, personal protec-
tive equipment (respirator, goggles/shield, gloves, cover-
alls, etc.) must be used. Failure to do this may result in
injury.

Using sandpaper, remove dirt and paint 3-4 in. (8-10
cm) around area of crack.

Rough-sand surface to which mat will be added and
underside of surface, if possible. Surface must be dry.

Bevel edges of crack in a broad “V ”.

Cut a piece of mat and apply to underside of surface
with resin mixture. Extend patch beyond break
about 2 in. (5 cm). Press patch firmly into place.
Saturate patch with additional layer of resin and then
allow 1-3 hours to cure.

At the same time, cover top exposed surface with
resin, allowing 1 to 3 hours to cure.

For stressed areas, lightly sand first patch and add
another patch layer, repeating steps a through c.

Finish-sand exposed surface.

Prime and paint.

Repairing holes.

Remove damaged material.

Using sandpaper, remove dirt and paint in area of hole
extending away 3-4 in. (8-10 cm).

Rough-sand top and underside of surface to which
mats will be added.

Cut two same size pieces of fiberglass mat that will
extend about 2 in. (5 cm) past edge of hole.

Coat both top and underside of surface, and saturate
both pieces of mat with the resin mixture.

When tacky, apply one mat to the inner surface
and

one to the outer surface. Press the two

patches together.

Allow 1-3 hours to cure. Additional coats of resin
may be added if necessary for appearance purposes.
Sand lightly between coats.

Finish-sand exposed surface.

Prime and paint.

WATER LEAK DETECTION AND REPAIR

If water has leaked into the vehicle, inspect for leakage points.
Spray water, under pressure, against the vehicle in the general
area where the leak is believed to be located. Have an assistant
inside the vehicle locate and mark the point(s) where any water
appears.

Water that appears at a certain place inside the vehicle may ac-
tually be entering the vehicle from another point. It may be
necessary to remove the floor mat, interior trim panels, insula-
tion, dash pad, instrument panel, etc. to gain access and diag-
nose the leak. Back track the path of water to the point of entry.
If it is still not possible to locate the point of entry, try the fol-
lowing:

Close all windows and doors.

Run a small stream of water over the suspected area(s) of
leakage.

Using a leak detector-type solution (commercially
available), spray a film over the suspect area on the
exterior surface.

From inside the vehicle, use an air wand and force air onto
the suspect leak area and check for pressure bubbles that
indicate air is escaping from the vehicle.

Repair the leak.

If the leak is between body panels or around rivet heads, use
Silaprene sealant (P/N 05593929) and wipe the sealant into
and/or around the leak area. Be sure to remove any excess seal-
ant while it is still pliable.

If the leak is around a door, it may be because the door is not
properly aligned. Refer to Door Replacement in this section for
instructions on door adjustment. If the door is contacting the
weather seal correctly, make sure the weather seal is not dam-
aged and is properly sealed on the door. If the weather seal is
not properly sealed, rubber cement can be used to hold it in
place. If the weather seal is damaged, replace it.

If the leak is around a window held by a weather seal (i.e., door
glass), completely dry the area and apply a new window glass
seal. If the new seal still does not close out against the glass,
the window opening flange may need to be adjusted inward. If
the weather seal is damaged, it should be replaced. Check the
flange that holds the weather seal for any nicks or burrs that
may have caused the damage.

Windshield leaks should be repaired by removing the glass and
the weather seal that is leaking. Clean off any remaining sealer
on the windshield frame and the weather seal, and lay a new
bead of sealer evenly around the windshield frame and be-
tween the glass and the weather seal. Install the glass and
weather seal as an assembly into the frame. Attach the retain-
ers, and allow sealer to harden.

Retest the entire vehicle for leaks.

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Body 10-13

05745159

CENTER CONSOLE REPLACEMENT

Removal

Remove four screw/washers from center console.
(Figure 10-12).

Slide center console back (toward rear seating area) far
enough for rear air vents to clear plenum.

Lift console from tunnel.

Installation

Carefully lower center console over auxiliary A/C-heat
unit while making sure that rear air vents clear plenum and
line up with cutouts.

Slide center console forward so that rear air vents fit into
plenum cutouts.

Secure center console to tunnel bracket with four screw/
washers.

Figure 10-12: Center Console Replacement

FRONT CONSOLE REPLACEMENT

Removal

Remove right side crashpad.

Remove bolts securing front console to body brackets and
screws from top of console (Figure 10-13).

Figure 10-13: Front Console Mounting

Pull front console away from dashboard.

Unplug antenna and electrical connectors from radio.

Unplug 56 way console connector from cross body
harness.

Remove front console assembly.

Remove transferable components from console assembly
as follows:

Disconnect electrical leads from cigarette lighters and
12V power supply.

Remove console harness and mounting clips.

Remove cigarette lighter, elements, heaters, shells.
and bezels.

Remove ashtray receptacles and frames.

Remove cup holder.

Remove CD changer if equipped.

Remove screws, glovebox, and speednuts (Figure 10-14).

Remove screws and air vents.

From inside of console, remove the upper rear support
bracket securing the climate control panel and radio to
the HVAC plenum.

Reattach lower support bracket to back of radio.

NOTE:

Faceplate, radio, support plate, and climate control

panel will come out as an assembly.

Remove screws, faceplate, radio, support plate, and
climate control panel.

CENTER CONSOLE

REAR AIR

VENT

PLENUM

CUTOUT

SCREW/
WASHER

FRONT CONSOLE

BRACKET

10-14

Body

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Figure 10-14: Glovebox Mounting

Installation

Assemble console as follows:

Insert faceplate, radio, support plate and climate
control panel (as one assembly) into front console and
secure with screw/washers.

Remove screw from back of radio and use it to secure
the upper support bracket to the lower support
bracket.

Secure upper support bracket to HVAC plenum with
screws.

Insert air vents into console and secure with screws.

Install glovebox with screws and speednuts.

Install ashtray frames and receptacles.

Install cup holder.

Install CD changer if removed.

Install cigarette lighter bezels, shells, heaters and
elements.

Secure console harness to console with mounting
clips.

Connect console harness leads to cigarette lighter and
12V power supply.

Position console close to dashboard.

Connect console harness to body electrical harness.

Plug antenna and electrical connectors into radio.

Fit console carefully into position.

Secure console to body brackets with screws.

Install right side crashpad.

INSTRUMENT PANEL, GAUGES, AND
SWITCHES

Instrument Panel (I.P.) Replacement

Removal

NOTE:

Tag all leads prior to removal for installation. If re-

placing instrument panel, refer to procedures in this section to
remove and/or disconnect the various lamps, switches, and
gauges.

Disconnect negative battery cables (Section 12).

Remove left side crashpad.

Remove close-out panel.

Remove wiring harness close-out plate.

Remove tachometer and clock assembly from I.P. to
access right side I.P. mounting bolt.

Remove right side I.P. mounting bolt.

Remove two bolts securing I.P. to steering column.

Remove two left side I.P. mounting bolts securing I.P. to
A-pillar.

Disconnect air hose from side window defrost vent.

10. Remove I.P.

Installation

Maneuver I.P. into position between steering wheel and
firewall.

Connect air hose side window defrost vent.

Loosely install left side I.P. mounting bolts.

Loosely install I.P. to steering column mounting bolts.

Install right side I.P. mounting bolts

Tighten loosely installed bolts from steps 3 and 4.

Install tachometer and clock assembly.

Install wiring harness close-out plate.

Install close-out panel.

10. Install left side dashpad.

11. Connect negative battery cables (Section 12).

FRONT CONSOLE

GLOVE BOX

SPEEDNUT

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