Rover 214-414. Service Repair Manual - part 12

and trailing arm (see illustration). On models
equipped with ABS, undo the bolts securing the
wheel sensor wiring lead bracket to the lower
arm and release the wiring. On all models, undo
the lower suspension strut mounting bolt and
remove the rear lower lateral link.
3 On 214 models, from inside the luggage
compartment, prise off the trim cap to gain
access to the rear suspension strut upper
mounting nuts. On 414 models, remove the
relevant luggage compartment side trim panel
to gain access (see illustration).
4 Remove the rubber cover and use chalk or
a dab of paint to mark the relative positions of
the suspension strut upper mounting and
body. Undo the two suspension strut upper
mounting nuts and manoeuvre the strut out
from under the wheelarch, noting the seal
fitted between the upper mounting plate and
vehicle body (see illustration).

Refitting

5 Prior to refitting, examine the rear lower
lateral link mounting bushes and renew any
which are worn or damaged.

6 Ensure the rubber seal is in position on the
upper mounting plate then refit the
suspension strut, aligning the marks made on
removal (where necessary). Refit the upper
mounting nuts. Tighten the nuts to the
specified torque setting and refit the rubber
cover and trim cap/panel.

7 Offer up the lower lateral link and refit the
lower suspension strut mounting bolt followed
by both the lower lateral link pivot bolts.
Tighten the bolts loosely. On models
equipped with ABS, refit the wheel sensor
wiring bracket retaining bolts and tighten
them securely.

Suspension and steering  10•11

13.2  Rear suspension components

13.4  Removing rear suspension strut

13.3  Remove luggage compartment side

trim to gain access to strut upper

mounting nuts - 414 models

10

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

1

Self-locking nut

2

Washer

3

Seal

4

Mounting rubber

5

Strut upper mounting nut

6

Upper mounting plate

7

Spacer

8

Mounting rubber

9

Rubber damper

10 Dust seal
11 Dust cover
12 Coil spring
13 Stop plate
14 Rubber stop
15 Strut
16 Strut lower mounting bolt
17 Strut lower mounting bush
18 Rear upper lateral link outer bush
19 Rear upper lateral link
20 Rear upper lateral link inner bush
21 Bolt - rear upper link to body
22 Pivot bolt - rear upper link to trailing

arm

23 Front lateral link
24 Front lateral link bush
25 Trailing arm
26 Trailing arm mounting bush
27 Bolt - trailing arm to body
28 Pivot bolt - front link to trailing arm
29 Pivot bolt - rear lower link to trailing

arm

30 Rear lower lateral link
31 Rear lower lateral link outer bush
32 Rear lower lateral link inner bush
33 Pivot bolt - rear lower link to body
34 Rear hub
35 Washer
36 Rear hub retaining nut
37 Hub cap

38 Brake drum
39 Drum retaining screw
40 Backplate assembly
41 Backplate mounting bolt
42 Disc retaining screw
43 Disc shield
44 Disc shield mounting bolt
45 Brake disc
46 Pivot bolt
47 Washer

8 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle
to the ground and tighten the roadwheel 
nuts to the specified torque.
9 With the vehicle standing on its wheels,
rock the vehicle to settle the disturbed
components in position then tighten the lower
lateral link pivot bolts and the lower
suspension strut mounting bolt to the
specified torque.

14 Rear suspension strut -

dismantling, inspection and
reassembly

3

Note: Before attempting to dismantle the rear
suspension strut, a suitable tool to hold the
coil spring in compression must be obtained.
Adjustable coil spring compressors are readily
available and are recommended for this
operation. Any attempt to dismantle the strut
without such a tool is likely to result in damage
or personal injury.

Dismantling

1 With the strut removed from the vehicle,
clean away all external dirt then mount it
upright in a vice.
2 Fit the spring compressor and compress
the coil spring until all tension is relieved from
the upper mounting plate.
3 Slacken the upper mounting retaining nut
whilst retaining the strut piston with an Allen
key.
4 Remove the nut and washer followed by the
mounting plate assembly, noting the correct
fitted positions of the mounting rubbers and
spacer, and the upper spring rubber damper.
Remove the coil spring then lift the dust seal
and cover off the damper and slide the
damper stop plate and rubber stop off the
strut piston.

Inspection

5 Examine all the rear suspension strut
components, using the information given for
the front suspension strut.

Reassembly

6 Reassembly is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the spring ends are
correctly located in the upper and lower seats
and that the upper mounting plate retaining
nut is tightened to the specified torque
setting.

15 Rear suspension lateral links

- removal, inspection and
refitting

5

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate rear
roadwheel.

Front link

2 Mark the position of the lateral link body
pivot bolt in relation to the body. This mark
can then be used as a guide on refitting.
3 Slacken and remove both the pivot bolts
securing the front lateral link to the body and
trailing arm and remove the link from the
vehicle (see illustration).

Rear upper link

4 Slacken and remove the pivot bolt securing
the rear upper lateral link to the trailing arm
assembly (see illustration).
5 Undo the two bolts securing the inner
mounting to the vehicle body and remove the
link assembly from the vehicle.

Rear lower link

6 Slacken and remove both the pivot bolts
securing the lower rear lateral link to the body
and trailing arm. On models equipped with
ABS, undo the bolts securing the wheel
sensor wiring lead bracket to the lower arm
and release the wiring. On all models, undo
the lower suspension mounting bolt and
remove the rear lower lateral link (see
illustration).

Inspection

7 Examine the lateral link for signs of cracking
and check the mounting bushes for signs of
wear or deterioration, renewing as necessary
(see illustration). 
8 The bushes are a press fit in the link and
can be pressed out and in using a vice and

two suitable-sized tubular drifts, such as
sockets (one bearing on the hard outer edge
of the bush and another bearing against the
edge of the lateral link). 
9 When renewing the inner bush on the rear
upper lateral link, mark the position of the
bush mounting plate in relation to the lateral
link before removing the worn bush. Fit the
new bush so that the mounting plate is in the
same position in relation to the lateral link.
This avoids placing any undue strain on the
rubber bush when the link is refitted to the
vehicle.
10 Examine the pivot bolt shanks for signs of
wear or damage such as scoring and renew
as necessary.

Refitting

11 Refitting is the reverse of removal, noting
the following:

a)

Refit the pivot bolts and tighten them
loosely.

b)

When refitting the front lateral link, align
the inner pivot bolt using the marks made
on dismantling.

c)

With the vehicle standing on its wheels,
rock the suspension to settle all disturbed
components in position then tighten all
the disturbed pivot bolts to the specified
torque.

d)

On completion, check and, if necessary,
adjust rear wheel alignment.

10•12 Suspension and steering

15.7  Examine lateral link bushes for signs

of wear and renew if necessary

15.6  Removing rear lower lateral link

15.4  Rear upper lateral link to body 

bolts (A) and trailing arm pivot bolt (B)

15.3  Front lateral link to body mounting

bolt (arrowed) is slotted to permit rear

wheel alignment

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

16 Rear suspension trailing

arm - removal and refitting

5

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate rear
roadwheel, then follow the procedure under
the relevant sub heading.

Non-ABS models

2 Remove the rear hub assembly.
3 Undo the bolts and remove the clips securing
the handbrake cable and brake hose brackets
to the trailing arm (see illustration). Remove
the four bolts securing the backplate to the
trailing arm and carefully ease the backplate
assembly outwards and off the end of the stub
axle. Position the backplate out of the way of
the stub axle and tie it to the rear suspension
unit coil spring using a piece of wire.

ABS models

4 Remove the two brake caliper shield
retaining screws and remove the shield from
the caliper.
5 Slacken and remove the bolts securing the
handbrake cable and brake hose retaining
clamps to the trailing arm. Undo the two bolts
securing the caliper mounting bracket to the
trailing arm and slide the caliper off the disc.
Tie the caliper to the rear suspension strut coil
spring to avoid placing any strain on the
hydraulic hose or handbrake cable.
6 Remove the ABS rear wheel sensor.

All models

7 Slacken and remove the three pivot bolts
securing the front lateral link, rear lower lateral
link and rear upper lateral link to the trailing arm.
8 Remove the two bolts securing the trailing
arm mounting bracket to the vehicle body,
then manoeuvre the trailing arm assembly out
of position and away from the vehicle (see
illustration).

9 Inspect the trailing arm for signs of damage
such as cracks, paying particular to the areas
around the mounting bolt holes, and examine
the mounting bush for signs of damage and
deterioration. If either the arm or bush show
signs of wear or damage, the trailing arm and
bush assembly must be renewed as a unit
since neither component is available
separately.

Refitting

10 Refitting is the reverse of removal, noting
the following:

a)

Manoeuvre the trailing arm into position
and tighten its mounting bolts to the
specified torque.

b)

Refit all the pivot bolts and tighten them
only loosely.

c)

On non-ABS models, tighten the
backplate retaining bolts to the specified
torque then refit the hub.

d)

On ABS models, tighten the brake caliper
mounting bracket bolts to the specified
torque and refit the wheel sensor.

e)

With the vehicle standing on its wheels,
rock the suspension to settle all the
suspension components in position then
tighten all the disturbed pivot bolts to
their specified torque setting.

f)

On completion, check and, if necessary,
adjust rear wheel alignment.

17 Steering - inspection

Refer to Chapter 1.

18 Steering wheel - 

removal and refitting

2

Models without airbag (SRS)

Removal

1 Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position. The steering wheel spokes should be
horizontal.
2 Carefully prise out the horn button from the
centre of the steering wheel. Disconnect the
wires from the button terminals and remove
the button (see illustrations).
3 Using a socket, unscrew and remove the
steering wheel retaining nut.
4 Mark the steering wheel and steering
column shaft in relation to each other then lift
the steering wheel off the column splines. If it
is tight, tap it up near the centre, using the
palm of your hand, or twist it from side to side
whilst pulling upwards to release it from the
shaft splines.

Suspension and steering  10•13

16.8  Trailing arm mounting bolts (arrowed)

16.3  Remove retaining clip and free brake hose from trailing arm

18.2b  . . . and disconnect wiring from

button terminals

18.2a  Remove horn button from steering

wheel . . .

10

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Refitting

5 Before refitting, check that the steering
column splines are clean.
6 Refit the wheel, entering the cut-outs on its
lower surface with the direction indicator
cancelling cam tabs and aligning the marks
made on dismantling. This should leave the
wheel positioned as described in paragraph 1
(see illustrations).
7 Tighten the steering wheel nut to the
specified torque wrench setting, then
reconnect the horn wiring to the horn
terminals and press the horn into position in
the centre of the wheel.

Models with airbag (SRS)

Removal

8 Remove the ignition key and wait at least
ten minutes to allow the SRS system backup
circuit to fully discharge. Disconnect both
battery leads, earth lead first, to avoid
accidental detonation of the airbag.
9 Remove the airbag unit, see Chapter 12.
10 Detach the SRS harness multiplug from
the slip ring (see illustration).
11 Set the steering in the straight-ahead
position and, using a socket, unscrew the
steering wheel retaining nut until its top is
flush with the end of the column shaft.

12 Mark the steering wheel and steering
column shaft in relation to each other then lift
the steering wheel off the column splines. If it is
tight, tap it up near the centre, using the palm of
your hand, to release it from the shaft splines.
13 Remove and discard the steering wheel
retaining nut. A new self-locking nut must be
obtained for reassembly. 
14 Remove the steering wheel from the column.

Refitting

15 Refit the steering wheel by reversing the
removal procedure, noting the following:
a)

Before refitting, check that the steering
column splines are clean.

b)

Enter the cut-outs on the lower surface of
the wheel with the direction indicator
cancelling cam tabs and align the marks
made on dismantling. This should leave
the wheel in the same position as before
removal.

c)

Take care to ensure that wiring is not
trapped between mating surfaces.

d)

Fit a new wheel retaining nut and tighten
it to the specified torque wrench setting

e)

Refit the airbag unit, carrying out the
system check given in Chapter 12.

f)

When reconnecting the battery leads, fit
the negative lead last

19 Steering column - 

removal and refitting

3

Models without airbag

Removal

1 Insert the key to ensure the steering column
is unlocked, then release the column tilt lever
and position the steering wheel at the lowest
possible position. Remove the steering wheel.
2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
then undo the five right-hand lower facia
panel retaining screws and remove the panel
from the facia.
3 Prise the large snap-ring which secures the
two halves of the steering column shroud
together from the top of the shrouds and
remove the ignition key. Undo the three screws
securing the lower shroud to the steering
column and remove both the upper and lower
steering column shrouds (see illustrations).

10•14 Suspension and steering

19.3c  . . . and remove lower and upper

shrouds

19.3b  . . .  undo lower shroud retaining

screws (arrowed) . . .

19.3a  Prise off snap-ring . . .

18.10  Detach SRS harness multiplug (A) from slip ring and unscrew steering wheel

retaining nut (B)

18.6b  . . .  then refit wheel retaining 

nut

18.6a  Ensure steering wheel cut-outs are

correctly engaged with indicator

cancelling cam tabs (arrowed) . . .

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

4 Lift the indicator cancelling cam off the
steering column and disconnect the wiring
connectors from the rear of the steering
column combination switch assembly.
5 Undo the two combination switch retaining
screws and slide the assembly off the end of
the steering column (see illustration).
6 Trace the ignition switch wiring back to its
wiring connectors and disconnect them from
the main wiring loom.
7 Pull back the driver’s footwell carpet and
remove the two studs securing the lower
column cover to the floor. Remove the two
retaining clips from the upper end of the cover
and withdraw the cover (see illustrations).
8 Using a hammer and punch, white paint or
similar, mark the exact relationship between
the steering column shaft and shaft-to-
steering gear universal joint, then slacken and
remove the pinch-bolt securing the joint to the
column shaft.
9 Undo the nut and bolt securing the lower
steering column mounting clamp in position
and remove the clamp (see illustration).
Slacken and remove the two nuts and bolts
securing the upper mounting assembly to the
vehicle then disengage the column from its
mounting studs and universal joint then
remove it from the vehicle.

Refitting

10 Before refitting the steering column,
closely examine the upper mounting
assembly for damage or misalignment.

11 Align the marks made on dismantling and
engage the steering column shaft splines with
those of the universal joint.
12 Locate the upper mounting bracket
assembly over its mounting studs and refit the
upper mounting nuts and bolts. Refit the lower
mounting clamp and tighten its retaining nut
and bolt to the specified torque setting, then
tighten the upper mounting nuts and bolts to
their specified torque settings.
13 Refit the universal joint to steering column
pinch-bolt and tighten it to the specified
torque. Refit the lower cover over the steering
column and secure it in position with the
retaining clips and studs.
14 Refit the combination switch to the
column and tighten its screws securely. Refit
the indicator cancelling cam to the steering
column, ensuring that it is correctly located
with the switch assembly, and reconnect the
combination and ignition switch wiring
connectors 

(see illustration). Ensure that the

wiring is correctly routed and secured by any
relevant clips.
15 Offer up the two halves of the 
steering column shroud and refit the 
three retaining screws to the lower shroud.
Ensure the shroud halves are clipped 
firmly together, then refit the snap ring to its
groove.
16 Refit the lower facia panel, tightening its
retaining screws securely, then refit the
steering wheel.

Models with airbag (SRS)

Removal

17 Remove the ignition key and wait at least
ten minutes to allow the SRS system backup
circuit to fully discharge. Disconnect both
battery leads, earth lead first, to avoid
accidental detonation of the airbag.
18 Set the steering in the straight-ahead
position then lock the steering column in its
lowest position. 
19 Remove the airbag unit, see Chapter 12.
20 Remove the steering wheel.
21 Remove the steering column combination
switch, see Chapter 12.
22 Disconnect the combination switch and
ignition switch multiplugs, then release the
cable tie securing the wiring harness to the
steering column (see illustration).
23 Carry out the sequence given in
paragraphs 7 to 9 inclusive.

Refitting

24 Carry out the sequence given in
paragraphs 10 to 13 inclusive.
25 Reconnect the combination switch and
ignition switch multiplugs, then secure the
wiring harness to the steering column.
26 Refit the steering column combination
switch, see Chapter 12.
27 Refit the steering wheel, then refit the
airbag unit, see Chapter 12. 

Suspension and steering  10•15

19.7b  . . . and withdraw lower steering

column cover

19.7a  Remove retaining clips . . .

19.5  Combination switch assembly is

retained by two screws (arrowed)

19.22  Disconnect switch multiplugs (A)

then release cable tie (B)

19.14  Ensure that indicator cancelling cam

is correctly engaged with combination

switch assembly

19.9  Steering column lower mounting

clamp components

10

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

20 Steering column - overhaul

3

1 With the steering column removed from the
vehicle, fit the ignition key and check that the
steering lock is off. Remove the circlip from the
upper end of the column shaft and lift off the
washer and spring washer (see illustration).
2 Carefully withdraw the steering shaft from
the lower end of the steering column. Note the
inner circlip fitted to the shaft upper end.
3 Inspect the steering shaft for straightness
and for signs of impact and damage to the
collapsible portion. Check for signs of wear,
such as scoring, on the shaft bush and check
the steering shaft universal joint for signs of
damage or roughness in the joint bearings. If
any damage or wear is found on the steering
shaft, shaft bush or universal joint, the shaft
must be renewed as an assembly.

4 Inspect the steering column for signs of
damage and renew if necessary. Closely
examine the column upper mounting and tilt
assembly for signs of damage or distortion,
paying particular attention to the upper
mounting bending plate and its spring retainer.
The bending plate is designed to distort in the
event of an impact hitting the steering wheel
and must be renewed, along with its spring
retainer, if it is not completely straight. Renew
other components as necessary.
5 If renewal of any of the upper mounting or
steering column tilt assembly components is
necessary, make a note of the correct fitted
positions of all components before
dismantling the assembly. Use this as a guide
when reassembling all the components to
ensure they are correctly fitted. Ensure that
the ends of the bending plate spring retainer
are correctly located in the holes in the
mounting bracket and the retainer is hooked
over the claw situated in the centre of the
bracket (see illustration).

6 Apply a smear of grease to the steering
shaft and column bearing surfaces and to the
shaft bush. If a new steering shaft is being
installed, transfer the inner circlip from the old
shaft onto the second groove in the upper end
of the new shaft.

10•16 Suspension and steering

20.5  Fitted positions of upper mounting

assembly components

20.1  Steering column components

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

1 Horn button assembly
2 Steering wheel retaining nut
3 Steering wheel
4 Contact ring
5 Snap ring
6 Upper shroud
7 Guide rails
8 Bending plate guide
9 Bending plate spring

10 Bending plate base
11 Upper column holder
12 Bending plate
13 Column hanger spring
14 Tilt adjusting bolt and washers
15 Tilt lock plate
16 Tilt lock bolt and washers
17 Tilt lever and spring
18 Steering column
19 Bush and retainer
20 Circlip
21 Washer
22 Spring washer
23 Bearing
24 Circlip
25 Steering shaft
26 Shaft bush
27 Horn pick-up
28 Indicator cancelling cam
29 Combination switch assembly
30 Ignition switch/steering lock
31 Retaining clips
32 Lower cover
33 Lower shroud
34 Shroud retaining screw

7 Insert the steering shaft into position in the
steering column and refit the spring washer
and flat washer to the upper end of the
steering shaft, securing them in position with
the circlip. Ensure that the circlip is correctly
located in its groove and check that the shaft
rotates freely in the column. Remove the
ignition key and check that the steering lock
functions correctly.
8 Before installing the column assembly,
check the steering shaft-to-steering gear
universal joint for signs of wear or damage
and smoothness of operation. If there is any
sign of roughness in the joint bearing, it must
be renewed before refitting the steering
column.

21 Steering lock/ignition switch

- removal and refitting

3

Warning: Before attempting
removal of the ignition switch,
read carefully the precautions
listed in Chapter 12,

appertaining to vehicles equipped with
airbags (SRS).

Note: The steering lock/ignition switch is
secured by two shear-head bolts. Although new
bolts are supplied with replacement steering
lock assemblies, always ensure that the bolts
themselves are available before beginning work.

Removal

1 Remove the steering column.
2 Securely clamp the column assembly in a
vice equipped with soft jaws, taking great
care not to overtighten the vice and distort the
steering column.
3 Centre-punch the two steering lock shear
bolts then drill off the heads of the bolts. Note
that new shear bolts must be obtained for
refitting.
4 Withdraw the steering lock/ignition switch,
then unscrew the remains of the shear bolts
by using a self-locking wrench or similar on
the exposed ends.

Refitting

5 On refitting, carefully align the assembly on
the steering column, lightly tighten the bolts and
check that the steering lock works smoothly.
6 Tighten the shear bolts evenly until their
heads shear off.
7 Refit the steering column.

22 Steering gear rubber 

gaiters - renewal

3

1 Remove the track rod balljoint and unscrew
the locknut from the track rod end (see
illustration).
2 Using a pair of pliers, release the outer
steering gear gaiter retaining clip and slide it
off the track rod end. Remove the inner gaiter
retaining clip by cutting it, then slide the gaiter
off the end of the track rod.
3 Thoroughly clean the track rod and the
steering gear housing, using fine abrasive
paper to polish off any corrosion, burrs or
sharp edges which might damage the new
gaiter’s sealing lips on fitting. Repair kits
which consist of new gaiters and retaining
clips are available from Rover dealers.
4 Fit the new rubber gaiter, ensuring that it is
correctly seated in the grooves in the steering
gear housing and track rod.
5 Check that the gaiter is not twisted or
dented then secure it in position using new
retaining clips.
6 Refit the locknut and balljoint onto the track
rod end.

23 Steering gear - removal,

overhaul and refitting

5

Removal

1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the
handbrake, jack up the front of the vehicle
and support on axle stands. Remove the
appropriate front roadwheel.
2 Working inside the vehicle, peel back the
driver’s footwell carpet and remove the studs
securing the lower steering column cover to
the floor. Remove the two retaining clips from
the upper end of the cover and withdraw the
cover.
3 Mark the relative positions of the steering
gear pinion and joint to use as a guide when
refitting, then slacken and remove the two
universal joint pinch-bolts (see illustration).
Slide the universal joint up the steering

Suspension and steering  10•17

23.3  Steering column universal joint

pinch-bolts (arrowed)

22.1  Steering gear components

1 Steering rack
2 Track rod balljoint
3 Steering rack gaiter
4 Gaiter outer retaining clip
5 Gaiter inner retaining clip
6 Balljoint retaining nut
7 Split pin

8 Mounting clamp
9 Mounting bush

10 Mounting bush
11 Steering rack mounting

bolt

12 Spacer

13 Washer
14 Washers
15 Steering rack mounting

clamp bolt

16 Power steering fluid pipes

(where fitted)

10

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

column shaft splines until it is free from the
steering gear pinion.
4 Extract the split pins and undo the nuts
securing the steering gear track rod balljoints
to the swivel hubs. Release the balljoint
shanks by using a suitable balljoint separator
tool whilst taking care not to damage the
balljoint gaiters.
5 From underneath the vehicle, slacken and
remove the bolt securing the rear
engine/gearbox unit mounting connecting link
to the subframe bracket, then remove the
three subframe bracket retaining bolts and
remove the bracket, releasing it from the
exhaust mounting rubber. Undo the two bolts
securing the connecting link and bracket
assembly to the gearbox housing and remove
the assembly from the vehicle.
6 Undo the three front exhaust pipe to
manifold retaining nuts and, where necessary,
the two bolts securing the front pipe mounting
bracket to the vehicle. Release the
intermediate exhaust section from its
mountings and lower the front of the exhaust
system.
7 In the absence of the special gearchange
linkage balljoint separator (Rover service tool
Number 18G 1592), use a suitable flat-bladed
screwdriver to carefully lever the lower
gearchange rod balljoint off the gearchange
linkage bellcrank assembly. Remove the three
bolts securing the assembly to the subframe
(see illustration).
8 Using a suitable stout bar, lever down on
the rear of the engine/gearbox unit and insert
a block of wood between the gearbox and
subframe to hold it in position. This is
necessary to gain the required clearance to
remove the steering gear.
9 On models equipped with power-assisted
steering, remove the bolt securing the feed
and return pipe mounting bracket to the
subframe. Mark the pipe union bolts to ensure
they are correctly positioned on reassembly,
then unscrew the pipe to steering gear union
nuts (see illustration). Be prepared for fluid
spillage and position a suitable container
beneath the pipes whilst unscrewing the
union nuts. This fluid must be disposed of 
and new fluid of the specified type used 
when refilling. Plug the pipe ends and steering
gear orifices to prevent excessive fluid

leakage and entry of dirt into the hydraulic
system.
10 On all models, fully extend the left-hand
track rod then undo the two left-hand steering
gear mounting bolts and remove the mounting
bracket. Undo the two right-hand mounting
bolts, noting the mounting bushes and
spacers, and free the steering gear pinion
from its cutout.
11 Initially move the steering gear to the left,
to free the right-hand track rod from the
subframe, then manoeuvre the assembly out
from the right-hand side of the vehicle.
Remove the washers from the steering gear
pinion.

Overhaul

12 Examine the steering gear assembly for
signs of wear or damage and check that the
rack moves freely throughout the full length of
its travel with no signs of roughness or
excessive free play between the steering gear
pinion and rack. The steering gear is available
only as a complete assembly with no
individual components, the exception being
the track rod balljoints and rubber gaiters.
Therefore, if worn, the complete assembly
must be renewed.
13 Inspect the steering gear mounting
bushes for signs of damage or deterioration
and renew as necessary.

Refitting

14 Refit the washers to the pinion and, with
the left-hand track rod fully extended,
manoeuvre the steering gear into position 
from the right-hand side of the vehicle. Once
both the track rods are located in the subframe
cutouts, refit the mounting clamp and bolts,
ensuring that the mounting bushes and
spacers are correctly positioned. Tighten the
mounting bolts to the specified torque.
15 Centralise the steering gear rack so that
both track rods are protruding by an equal
distance.
16 On models equipped with power-assisted
steering, wipe clean the feed and return pipe
unions then refit them to their respective
positions on the steering gear and tighten the
union nuts to the specified torque. Refit the
bolt securing the pipe retaining bracket to the
subframe and tighten securely.

17 The remainder of the refitting procedure is
direct reversal of removal, noting the
following:
a)

Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque settings.

b)

Secure the track rod balljoint retaining
nuts in position with new split pins.

c)

When refitting the universal joint to the
steering gear pinion splines, ensure that
the front wheels are pointing in the
straight-ahead direction then, if
necessary, align the marks made on
dismantling and check that the steering
wheel spokes are horizontal.

d)

On completion, check and, if necessary,
adjust front wheel alignment.

e)

On models equipped with power-assisted
steering, bleed the hydraulic system.

24 Power steering pump

drivebelt - inspection and
adjustment

Refer to Chapter 1.

25 Power steering pump -

removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Slacken, but do not remove, the three
power steering pump pulley retaining bolts,
then remove the power steering pump
drivebelt.
2 Position a suitable container beneath the
power steering pump to catch any spilt fluid,
then slacken the inlet hose retaining clip and
disconnect the hose from the top of the
steering pump. Undo the bolt securing the
outlet pipe retaining bracket to the pump,
then unscrew the outlet pipe union nut and
disconnect the pipe from the pump, noting
the O-ring which is fitted to the union (see
illustrations). Plug the hose ends and pump
unions to prevent excessive fluid loss and the
possible entry of dirt into the system.
3 Remove the reservoir from its mounting

10•18 Suspension and steering

25.2a  Slacken retaining clamp and

disconnect inlet hose from pump

23.9  Power steering pipes and steering

gear right-hand mounting bolts (arrowed)

23.7  Gearchange linkage bellcrank

mounting bolts (arrowed)

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

bracket and position it clear of the pump
assembly (see illustration).
4 Unscrew the pump pulley retaining bolts and
remove the pulley. Check that the front face of
the pulley is marked FRONT and if not, mark it
by using a dab of white paint. This mark can
then be used to ensure that the pulley is
correctly refitted (see illustrations).
5 Undo the five bolts (three on the right-hand
side of the pump, and two on the left)
securing the power steering pump to the
mounting bracket and remove the pump from
the engine (see illustrations).
6 The power steering pump is a sealed unit
and cannot be repaired. If faulty the pump
assembly must be renewed.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following (see
illustration):
a)

Tighten the pump mounting bolts to the
specified torque.

b)

Fit a new O-ring to the pump outlet pipe
union and tighten the union nut to the
specified torque.

c)

Ensure the pulley is correctly installed and
lightly tighten its mounting bolts.

d)

Refit and adjust the drivebelt, then tighten
the pulley mounting bolts to the specified
torque.

e)

On completion, bleed the hydraulic
system.

26 Power steering oil cooler -

removal and refitting

4

Removal

1 Remove the right-hand headlamp assembly.
2 Remove the bonnet lock.
3 Position a suitable container beneath the
power steering oil cooler hose connections to
catch any spilt fluid, then slacken the hose
retaining clips and disconnect both hoses
(see illustration). Plug the hose and oil cooler
ends to prevent excessive fluid loss and
possible entry of dirt into the system.

Suspension and steering  10•19

25.3  Removing power steering fluid

reservoir from retaining clamp

25.2c  . . .  and unscrew outlet pipe union

nut from pump

25.2b  Remove outlet pipe bracket

retaining bolt . . .

26.3  Slacken clamps and disconnect

hoses from power steering oil cooler

25.7  Always renew outlet pipe O-ring

(arrowed)

25.5b  . . . and remove pump

25.5a  Unscrew power steering pump

mounting bolts (three arrowed) . . .

25.4b  . . .  and withdraw pulley. Note

FRONT mark on pulley face (arrowed)

25.4a  Remove pulley retaining bolts

(arrowed) . . .

10

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

4 Undo the three oil cooler mounting bracket
retaining bolts, then manoeuvre the oil cooler
assembly out from between the front bumper
and body (see illustrations).

Refitting

5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. On completion, bleed the system.

27 Power steering system -

bleeding

2

Warning: Avoid holding the
steering at full lock for long
periods of time. Failure to do so
could lead to overheating, and

possible damage, of the power steering
pump and steering gear.
1 Remove the cap from the power steering
fluid reservoir and fill the reservoir with the
specified fluid.
2 Disconnect the distributor wiring to prevent
the engine from starting, then turn the engine
over for approximately 5 seconds to prime the
power steering pump.
3 Reconnect the distributor wiring, then
check the reservoir fluid level is between the
MAX and MIN level markings on the side of
the reservoir, topping up if necessary.
4 Start the engine and allow it to idle for
approximately 30 seconds with the front wheels

pointing in the straight-ahead position. After 30
seconds, turn the steering onto full lock in one
direction, hold it there for a few seconds, then
turn it onto full lock in the opposite direction and
hold it there for a few seconds. Return the front
wheels to the straight-ahead position. Repeat
this procedure until air bubbles cease to appear
in the fluid reservoir.
5 If, when turning the steering, an abnormal
noise is heard from the fluid lines, it indicates
that there is still air in the system. Check this
by turning the wheels to the straight-ahead
position and switching off the engine. If the
fluid level in the reservoir rises, then air is
present in the system and further bleeding is
necessary.
6 Once all traces of air have been removed
from the power steering hydraulic system,
turn the engine off and allow the system to
cool. Once cool, check that fluid level is up to
the MAX mark on the power steering fluid
reservoir. Top up if necessary.

28 Track rod balljoint - 

removal and refitting

5

Removal

1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the appropriate front roadwheel.

2 If the balljoint is to be re-used, use a
straight-edge and a scriber, or similar, to mark
its relationship to the track rod.
3 Holding the balljoint, unscrew its locknut by
one quarter of a turn.
4 Extract the split pin and undo the nut
securing the steering gear track rod balljoint
to the swivel hub. Release the balljoint shank
by using a suitable balljoint separator tool
whilst taking care not to damage the balljoint
gaiter (see illustration).
5 Unscrew the balljoint from the track rod,
counting the exact number of turns necessary
to do so. If the locknut is to be removed, mark
its position on the track rod and count the
number of turns required to remove it so that
it can be returned exactly to its original
position on reassembly.
6 Carefully clean the balljoint and the threads.
Renew the balljoint if its movement is sloppy
or too stiff, if it is excessively worn, or if it is
damaged in any way. Carefully check the stud
taper and threads. No grease leakage should
be visible.

Refitting

7 If necessary, screw the locknut onto the
track rod by the number of turns noted on
removal. This should align the locknut with the
mark made on dismantling.
8 Screw the balljoint onto the track rod by the
number of turns noted on removal. This
should bring the balljoint to within a quarter of
a turn from the locknut, with the alignment
marks that were made (if applicable) on
removal lined up.
9 Refit the balljoint shank to the swivel hub
and tighten its retaining nut to the specified
torque setting. Use a new split pin to 
secure the retaining nut in position (see
illustration).
10 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground and tighten the
roadwheel nuts to the specified torque
setting.
11 Check and, if necessary, adjust front
wheel alignment.

10•20 Suspension and steering

28.9  Secure balljoint retaining nut in position with new split pin

28.4  Using a universal balljoint separator to free track rod

balljoint from swivel hub

26.4b  Oil cooler lower mounting bolt can

be accessed via bumper grille

26.4a  Power steering oil cooler upper

mounting bolts (arrowed)

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

29 Wheel alignment and

steering angles

5

1 A vehicle’s steering and suspension
geometry is defined in five basic settings. All
angles are expressed in degrees and the
steering axis is defined as an imaginary line
drawn through the centres of the front
suspension upper and lower balljoints,
extended where necessary to contact the
ground (see illustration).

Camber

2 Camber is the angle between each
roadwheel and a vertical line drawn through
its centre and tyre contact patch when viewed
from the front or rear of the vehicle. 
Positive camber is when the roadwheels are
tilted outwards from the vertical at the top.
Negative camber is when they are tilted
inwards.
3 Camber is not adjustable and given for
reference only. While it can be checked using
a camber checking gauge, if the figure
obtained is significantly different from that
specified, then the vehicle must be taken for
careful checking by a professional, as the fault
can only be caused by wear or damage to the
body or suspension components.

Castor 

4 Castor is the angle between the steering
axis and a vertical line drawn through each
roadwheel’s centre and tyre contact patch
when viewed from the side of the vehicle.
Positive castor is when the steering axis is
tilted so that it contacts the ground ahead of
the vertical. Negative castor is when it
contacts the ground behind the vertical.
5 Castor is not adjustable and is given for
reference only. While it can be checked using
a castor checking gauge, if the figure obtained
is significantly different from that specified,
then the vehicle must be taken for careful
checking by a professional, as the fault can
only be caused by wear or damage to the
body or suspension components.

Steering axis inclination/SAI 

6 Also known as kingpin inclination/KPI, this
is the angle between the steering axis and a
vertical line drawn through each roadwheel’s
centre and tyre contact patch when viewed
from the front or rear of the vehicle.
7 SAI/KPI is not adjustable and is given for
reference only.

Toe

8 Toe is the difference, viewed from above,
between lines drawn through the roadwheel
centres and the vehicle’s centre-line. Toe-in is
when the roadwheels point inwards, towards
each other at the front. Toe-out is when they
splay outwards from each other at the front.
9 At the front, toe setting is adjusted by
screwing the track rods in or out of their
balljoints to alter the effective length of the
track rod assemblies.
10 At the rear, toe setting is adjusted by
slackening the front lateral link-to-body pivot
bolt and repositioning the bolt in its mounting
slot, thereby altering the position of the trailing
arm assembly.

Toe-out on turns 

11 Also known as turning angles or
Ackermann angles, this is the difference,
viewed from above, between the angles of
rotation of the inside and outside front
roadwheels when they have been turned
through a given angle.
12 Toe-out on turns is set in production and
is not adjustable as such, but can be upset by
altering the length of the track rods unequally.
It is essential, therefore, to ensure that the
track rod lengths are exactly the same and
that they are turned by the same amount
whenever the toe setting is altered.

Checking and adjustment

13 Due to the special measuring equipment
necessary to check wheel alignment and the
skill required to use it properly, checking and
adjustment of the aformentioned settings is
best left to a Rover dealer or similar expert.
Note that most tyre-fitting shops now possess
sophisticated checking equipment.

Suspension and steering  10•21

10

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

29.1  Wheel alignment and steering angles

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

12

Chapter 12
Body electrical systems

Bulbs (exterior lamps) - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

Bulbs (interior lamps) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

Cigar lighter - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Clock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Dim-dip headlamp system - operation  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

Electrical fault finding - general information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

Exterior lamp units - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

Fuses, fusible links and relays - location and renewal  . . . . . . . . . . .

3

General information and precautions  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

Headlamp beams - alignment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

Horn - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Instrument panel components - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Instrument panel - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Multi-function unit - operation, removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Radio aerial - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Radio/cassette player - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Speedometer drive cable - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Speakers - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Switches - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

Supplementary Restraint System (SRS) - component removal and 

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Supplementary Restraint System (SRS) - operation  . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Tailgate wiper motor - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Windscreen/headlamp washer system - inspection and 

adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Windscreen/tailgate wiper blades and arms - inspection and 

renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Windscreen/tailgate washer system components - removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Windscreen wiper motor and linkage - removal and refitting  . . . . . . 22

12•1

Contents

Specifications

System

Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12 volt, negative earth

Relays and control units

Component

Location

Starter relay  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Engine compartment fusebox, centre relay of right-hand three

Intake manifold heater relay  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Engine compartment fusebox, rear relay of right-hand three

Main relay  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Engine compartment fusebox, front relay of right-hand three

Fuel pump relay  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Engine compartment fusebox, front relay of left-hand two

Cooling fan relay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Engine compartment fusebox, rear relay of left-hand two

Direction indicator relay  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Behind right-hand lower facia panel (square relay)

Heated rear window relay  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Behind right-hand lower facia panel (circular relay)

Cigar lighter relay, fog lamp relay, horn relay and main beam relay  . . .

Part of relay module, mounted on transmission tunnel behind lower
central facia panel

Electric window relay  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Behind lower central facia panel

Electric window control unit  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Behind right-hand front door inner trim panel

Central locking control unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Behind left-hand front door inner trim panel

Air conditioning relay  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Mounted on left-hand side of engine compartment bulkhead

Dim-dip relay  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Behind right-hand lower facia panel

Windscreen wiper relay  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Behind right-hand lower facia panel

Sunroof relay  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Behind right-hand lower facia panel

Lambda sensor relay - catalytic converter models only . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Engine compartment fusebox, next to fusible links

Tailgate wiper relay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Behind right-hand luggage compartment trim

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1

Fuses

Fuse

Rating (amps)

Circuit(s) protected

1

10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Clock, instruments, direction indicators and dim-dip unit

2

10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Starter signal

3

15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Central locking

4

10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cigar lighter

5

10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Dim-dip resistor

6

30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Sunroof

7

10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Right-hand sidelamps, tail lamp and number plate lamps

8

10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Left-hand sidelamps, tail lamp and interior lamps

9

10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Fog lamps

10

10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Left-hand headlamp dipped beam

11

10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Right-hand headlamp dipped beam

12

15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Radio/cassette memory, clock and interior lamps

13

15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Front windscreen washers and wipers

14

10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Engine management system

15

15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cooling fan, tailgate washer and wiper

16

15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Reversing lamps, stop lamps and electric windows

17

10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cigar lighter, Multi-function unit and radio/cassette player

18

10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Electric door mirrors

19

15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Headlamp dim-dip

20

15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Fuel pump

21

15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Right-hand headlamp main beam

22

15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Left-hand headlamp main beam

23

25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Heated rear window and heated door mirrors

24

20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Heater blower motor

25

15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

ABS system

26

15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Left-hand rear electric window

27

15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Right-hand rear electric window

28

15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Left-hand front electric window

29

15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Right-hand front electric window

Additional

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Airbag (SRS). Do not remove

Note: Fuse locations are typical and may vary slightly according to model type. Refer to vehicle handbook.

Fusible links

Link

Rating (amps)

Circuit(s) protected

1

40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

ABS pump

2

40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Lighting and cigar lighter

3

40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Ignition switch

4

40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Electric window relay, sunroof, central locking and heated rear
window

5

40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Ignition switch

6

60 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Main relay, fuel pump relay and lambda sensor relay

Bulbs

Fitting

Wattage

Headlamps:

Dip/main beam bulb  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

H4

60/55

Individual main beam bulb  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

H1

55

Front sidelamps  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Capless

5

Direction indicator lamps  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Bayonet

21

Direction indicator side repeater lamps  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Capless

5

Interior lamp  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Festoon

5

Instrument panel warning and illumination  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Integral with holder*

14V 1.4 or 3W

Glovebox lamp  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Festoon

5

Luggage compartment lamp  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Bayonet

10

Reversing lamps  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Bayonet

21

Tail lamps  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Capless

5

Stop lamps  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Bayonet

21

Rear foglamps  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Bayonet

21

Number plate lamps  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Capless

5

* With exception of rear illumination panel bulb which is capless

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Wiper arm spindle nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

14

10

Wiper motor mounting bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

6

Windscreen wiper linkage spindle assembly bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

6

Airbag-to-steering wheel (Torx) screws  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

6

Airbag control unit-to-steering wheel (Torx) screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

2

12•2 Body electrical systems

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

1

General information and
precautions

General information

The electrical system is of the 12-volt

negative earth type and comprises a 12-volt
battery, an alternator with integral voltage
regulator, a starter motor and related
electrical accessories, components and
wiring. The battery is of the maintenance-free
(sealed for life) type and is charged by the
alternator, which is belt-driven from a
crankshaft-mounted pulley.

While some repair procedures are given,

the usual course of action is to renew a
defective component. The owner whose
interest extends beyond mere component
renewal should obtain a copy of the
Automobile Electrical & Electronic Systems
Manual, available from the publishers of this
Manual.

Precautions

It is necessary to take extra care when

working on the electrical system to avoid
damage to semi-conductor devices (diodes
and transistors) and to avoid the risk of
personal injury. In addition to the precautions
given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of this
Manual, observe the following when working
on the system:
a)

Always remove rings, watches, etc.
before working on the electrical system.
Even with the battery disconnected,
capacitive discharge could occur if a
component’s live terminal is earthed
through a metal object. This could cause
a shock or nasty burn.

b)

Do not reverse the battery connections.
Components such as the alternator, fuel
injection/ignition system ECU, or any
other having semi-conductor circuitry
could be irreparably damaged.

c)

If the engine is being started using jump
leads and a slave battery, connect the
batteries positive-to-positive and
negative-to-negative. This also applies
when connecting a battery charger.

d)

Never disconnect the battery terminals,
the alternator, any electrical wiring or any
test instruments when the engine is
running.

e)

Do not allow the engine to turn the
alternator when the alternator is not
connected.

f)

Never test for alternator output by
‘flashing’ the output lead to earth.

g)

Never use an ohmmeter of the type
incorporating a hand-cranked generator
for circuit or continuity testing.

h)

Always ensure that the battery negative
lead is disconnected when working on the
electrical system.

i)

Before using electric-arc welding
equipment on the vehicle, disconnect the

battery, alternator and components such
as the fuel injection/ignition system ECU
to protect them.

A number of additional precautions must be

observed when working on vehicles equipped
with airbags (SRS), they are as follows:
a)

When cleaning the interior of the vehicle,
do not allow the airbag unit to become
flooded with detergents or water and do
not clean with petrol or furniture cream
and polishes. Clean the unit sparingly with
a damp cloth and upholstery cleaner.

b)

Before working on any part of the system,
remove the ignition key and wait at least
ten minutes to allow the system backup
circuit to fully discharge. Disconnect both
battery leads, earth lead first, to avoid
accidental detonation of the airbag.

c)

Make no attempt to splice into any of the
electric cables in the SRS wiring harness
as this may affect the operation of the
SRS. Never fit electronic equipment such
as mobile telephones, radios, etc. into the
harness and ensure that the harness is
routed so that it cannot be trapped.

d)

Avoid hammering or causing any harsh
vibration at the front of the vehicle,
particularly in the engine bay, as this may
trigger the crash sensors and activate the
SRS.

e)

Do not use ohmmeters or any other
device capable of supplying current on
any of the SRS components, as this may
cause accidental detonation. Use only a
digital circuit tester.

f)

Always use new replacement parts. Never
fit parts that are from another vehicle or
show signs of damage through being
dropped or improperly handled 

g)

Airbags are classed as pyrotechnical
devices and must be stored and handled
according to the relevant laws in the
country concerned.  In general, do not
leave these components disconnected
from their electrical cabling any longer
than is absolutely necessary as in this
state they are unstable and the risk of
accidental detonation is introduced.  Rest
a disconnected airbag unit with the pad
surface facing upwards and never rest
anything on the pad. Store it on a secure
flat surface, away from flammable
materials, high heat sources, oils, grease,
detergents or water, and never leave it
unattended.

h)

The SRS indicator light should extinguish
3 seconds after the ignition switch is
turned to position “II”. If this is not the
case, check the electrical system
connections as soon as possible.

i)

The airbag control unit and slip ring are
non-serviceable components and no
attempt should be made to carry out
repairs or modifications to them.

j)

Only use the recommended special bolts
when fitting the airbag assembly. Do not
use any other type of bolt.  

k)

Never invert the airbag unit.

l)

Renew the airbag unit and slip ring every
ten years, regardless of condition.

m) Return an unwanted airbag unit to your

Rover dealer for safe disposal. Do not
endanger others by careless disposal of a
unit.

2

Electrical fault finding -
general information

1 A typical electrical circuit consists of an
electrical component, any switches, relays,
motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers
related to that component and the wiring and
connectors that link the component to both
the battery and the chassis. To help you
pinpoint an electrical circuit problem, wiring
diagrams are included at the end of this
Chapter.
2 Before tackling any troublesome electrical
circuit, first study the appropriate wiring
diagrams to get a complete understanding of
what components are included in that
individual circuit. Trouble spots, for instance,
can be narrowed down by noting if other
components related to the circuit are
operating properly. If several components or
circuits fail at one time, then the problem is
probably in a fuse or earth connection,
because several circuits are often routed
through the same fuse and earth connections.
3 Electrical problems usually stem from
simple causes, such as loose or corroded
connections, a blown fuse, a melted fusible
link or a faulty relay. Inspect the condition of
all fuses, wires and connections in a problem
circuit before testing the components. Use
the diagrams to note which terminal
connections will need to be checked in order
to pinpoint the trouble spot.
4 The basic tools needed for electrical fault
finding include a circuit tester or voltmeter (a
12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can also
be used), a continuity tester, a battery and set
of test leads, and a jumper wire, preferably
with a circuit breaker incorporated, which can
be used to bypass electrical components.
Before attempting to locate a problem with
test instruments, use the wiring diagram to
decide where to make the connections.

Voltage checks

5 Voltage checks should be performed if a
circuit is not functioning properly. Connect
one lead of a circuit tester to either the
negative battery terminal or a known good
earth. Connect the other lead to a connector
in the circuit being tested, preferably nearest
to the battery or fuse. If the bulb of the tester
lights then voltage is present, which means
that the part of the circuit between the
connector and the battery is problem free.
Continue checking the rest of the circuit in the
same fashion. When you reach a point at
which no voltage is present, the problem lies
between that point and the last test point with

Body electrical systems  12•3

12

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

voltage. Most problems can be traced to a
loose connection. Bear in mind that some
circuits are only live when the ignition switch
is switched to a particular position.

Finding a short circuit

6 One method of finding a short circuit is to
remove the fuse and connect a test light or
voltmeter to the fuse terminals with all the
relevant electrical components switched off.
There should be no voltage present in the
circuit. Move the wiring from side to side while
watching the test light. If the bulb lights up,
there is a short to earth somewhere in that
area, probably where the insulation has
rubbed through. The same test can be
performed on each component in the circuit,
even a switch.

Earth check

7 Perform an earth test to check whether a
component is properly earthed. Disconnect
the battery and connect one lead of a self-
powered test light, known as a continuity
tester, to a known good earth point. Connect
the other lead to the wire or earth connection
being tested. If the bulb lights up, the earth is
good. If not, the earth is faulty.
8 If an earth connection is thought to be
faulty, dismantle the connection and clean
back to bare metal both the bodyshell and the
wire terminal or the component’s earth
connection mating surface. Be careful to
remove all traces of dirt and corrosion, then
use a knife to trim away any paint, so that a
clean metal-to-metal joint is made. On
reassembly, tighten the joint fasteners
securely; if a wire terminal is being refitted,
use serrated washers between the terminal
and the bodyshell to ensure a clean and
secure connection. When the connection is
remade, prevent the onset of corrosion in the
future by applying a coat of petroleum jelly or
silicone-based grease or by spraying on a

proprietary ignition sealer or a water
dispersant lubricant at regular intervals.
9 The vehicle’s wiring harness has seven
multiple-earth connections, each one being
identified in the wiring diagrams by a
reference number (E1 to E7). Each of these
earth connections serves several circuits and
are located are as follows (see illustration):

E1 Behind left-hand headlamp.
E2 Behind right-hand headlamp.
E3 Base of right-hand front door pillar.
E4 Beneath right-hand rear lamp cluster.
E5 Beneath left-hand rear lamp cluster.
E6 Centre of tailgate/boot lid.
E7 Bonnet lock platform.

Continuity check

10 A continuity check is necessary to
determine if there are any breaks in a circuit.
With the circuit off (ie: no power in the circuit),
a self-powered continuity tester can be used
to check the circuit. Connect the test leads to
both ends of the circuit, or to the positive end
and a good earth. If the test light comes on,
the circuit is passing current properly. If the
light does not come on, there is a break
somewhere in the circuit. The same

procedure can be used to test a switch, by
connecting the continuity tester to the switch
terminals. With the switch turned on, the test
light should come on.

Finding an open circuit

11 When checking for possible open circuits,
it is often difficult to locate them by sight
because oxidation or terminal misalignment
are hidden by the connectors. Merely moving
a connector on a sensor or in the wiring
harness may correct the open circuit
condition. Remember this when an open
circuit is indicated when fault finding in 
a circuit. Intermittent problems may also be
caused by oxidized or loose connections.

General

12 Electrical fault finding is simple if you keep
in mind that all electrical circuits are basically
electricity flowing from the battery, through
the wires, switches, relays, fuses and fusible
links to each electrical component (light bulb,
motor, etc.) and to earth, from which it is
passed back to the battery. Any electrical
problem is an interruption in the flow of
electricity from the battery.

3

Fuses, fusible links and
relays - location and renewal

1

Fuses

1 Most of the fuses are located behind the
panel in the right-hand lower facia panel, with
a few odd fuses being located in the fusebox
on the left-hand side of the engine
compartment.
2 Access to the fuses is gained by removing
the fusebox lid/cover. Symbols on the reverse
of the lid/cover indicate the circuits protected
by the fuses and five spare fuses are supplied,
together with plastic tweezers to remove and
fit them (see illustration). Further details on
fuse ratings and circuits protected are given in
the Specifications.
3 On vehicles equipped with airbags, the fuse
protecting the airbag circuit is located on the
side of the main fuse box (see illustration).

12•4 Body electrical systems

3.3  Airbag circuit fuse (arrowed) is located

on side of main fusebox

3.2  Remove fuses with plastic tweezers

supplied (arrowed)

2.9  Electrical system earth points

1 Behind left-hand headlamp - E1
2 Behind right-hand headlamp - E2
3 Base of right-hand front door pillar - E3
4 Beneath right-hand rear lamp cluster - E4

5 Beneath left-hand rear lamp cluster - E5
6 Centre of tailgate/boot lid - E6
7 Bonnet lock platform - E7

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Under no circumstances should this fuse be
removed as this may cause inflation of the
airbag. Refer to your Rover dealer if you think
fuse renewal is necessary.
4 To remove a fuse, first switch off the circuit
concerned (or the ignition), then fit the
tweezers and pull the fuse out of its terminals.
Slide the fuse sideways from the tweezers.
The wire within the fuse is clearly visible. If the
fuse is blown, the wire will be broken or
melted.
5 Always renew a fuse with one of an
identical rating. Never use a fuse with a
different rating from the original or substitute
anything else. The fuse rating is stamped on
top of the fuse. Fuses are also colour-coded
for easy recognition.
6 If a new fuse blows immediately, find the
cause before renewing it again. A short to
earth as a result of faulty insulation is the most
likely cause. Where a fuse protects more than
one circuit, try to isolate the defect by
switching on each circuit in turn (if possible)
until the fuse blows again.
7 If any of the spare fuses are used, always
replace them so that a spare of each rating is
available.

Fusible links

8 The fusible links are located in the rear of
the fusebox, situated on the left-hand side of
the engine compartment. Unclip the lid to gain
access to them.
9 Details of link ratings and circuits protected
are given in the Specifications. All links are
numbered on the rear of the fusebox lid.
10 To remove a fusible link, first ensure that
the circuit concerned is switched off then
prise off the plastic cover. Slacken the two
link retaining screws then lift the fusible link
out of the fusebox (see illustrations). The
wire within the fusible link is clearly visible. If
the fuse is blown, it will be broken or melted.
A blown fusible link indicates a serious wiring
or system fault which must be diagnosed
before the link is renewed.
11 Always renew a fusible link with one of an
identical rating. Never use a link with a
different rating from the original or substitute
anything else. On refitting, tighten the link

retaining screws securely and refit the link
cover.

Relays

12 The Specifications Section gives full
information on the location and function of the
various relays fitted. Refer to the relevant
wiring diagram for details of wiring
connections.
13 If a circuit or system controlled by a relay
develops a fault and the relay is suspect,
operate the system. If the relay is functioning,
it should be possible to hear it click as it is
energized. If this is the case, the fault lies with
the components or wiring of the system. If the
relay is not being energized, then either 
|the relay is not receiving a main supply or a
switching voltage, or the relay itself is faulty.
Testing is by the substitution of a known good
unit but be careful as some relays are identical
in appearance, but perform different
functions.
14 To renew a relay, ensure that the ignition
switch is off, then simply pull direct from the
socket and press in the new relay.
15 Certain relays are contained in the relay
module which is situated behind the lower
central facia panel. To remove this, first
remove the lower central panel from the facia.
Disconnect its two wiring block connectors
then release its retaining clip and slide to the
left to withdraw it from the mounting bracket
(see illustrations). The complete module
must be renewed, even if only one of the
relays is faulty.

4

Switches - 
removal and refitting

3

Note: Disconnect the battery negative lead
before removing any, switch and after refitting
the switch, reconnect the lead.

Ignition switch

1 Refer to Chapter 10 for details of switch
removal and refitting. A Rover dealer will be
able to tell you whether the switch can be
obtained separately from the steering lock.

Steering column combination
switch

Models without airbag (SRS)

2 Remove the steering wheel and steering
column shrouds, then disconnect the switch
wiring, as described in Chapter 10.
3 Each individual switch can be removed by
unscrewing its two retaining screws and
sliding the switch out of the housing (see
illustrations).
4 To remove the complete switch assembly,
slacken and remove the two retaining screws
and slide the assembly off the steering
column.

Body electrical systems  12•5

3.15a  Use a screwdriver to release relay

module retaining clip . . .

3.10b  . . . then undo retaining screws and

remove fusible link

3.10a  Unclip plastic cover . . .

4.3a  Individual combination switches can

be removed by slackening retaining

screws . . .

3.15b  . . . then slide module out of position

and disconnect its wiring connectors

12

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97