Kawasaki Ninja 250R Motorcycle. Service Manual (2008-2012 year)

16-18 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Specifications

Item

Standard

Service Limit

Battery

EX250J8:

Type

Sealed battery

- - -

Model Name

YTX7A-BS

- - -

Capacity

12 V 6 Ah

- - -

Voltage

12.8 V or more

- - -

EX250J9 ∼ JA:

Type

Sealed battery

- - -

Model Name

YTX9-BS

- - -

Capacity

12 V 8 Ah

- - -

Voltage

12.8 V or more

- - -

EX250JB ∼ JC:

Type

Sealed battery

- - -

Model Name

FTX9-BS

- - -

Capacity

12 V 8 Ah

- - -

Voltage

12-6 V or more

- - -

Charging System

Alternator Output Voltage

40 V or more @4 000 r/min (rpm)

- - -

Alternator Stator Coil Resistance

0.05 ∼ 0.6 Ω

- - -

Ignition System

Crankshaft Sensor Air Gap

0.7 mm (0.028 in.)

- - -

Crankshaft Sensor Resistance

100 ∼ 150 Ω

- - -

Ignition Coil:

3 Needle Arcing Distance

7 mm (0.28 in.) or more

- - -

Primary Winding Resistance

2.1 ∼ 2.5 Ω

- - -

Secondary Winding Resistance

10 ∼ 16 kΩ

- - -

Spark Plug Gap

0.7 ∼ 0.8 mm (0.028 ∼ 0.032 in.)

Electrical Stater System

Starter Motor:

Carbon Brush Length

10 mm (0.39 in.)

5 mm (0.20 in.)

Commutator Diameter

28 mm (1.10 in.)

27 mm (1.06 in.)

Switches and Sensors

Rear Brake Light Switch

ON after about 10 mm (0.39 in.) pedal

- - -

travel

Radiator Fan Switch connections:

Rising Temperature

From OFF to ON @95 ∼ 101°C (196 ∼

- - -

203°F)

Falling Temperature

From ON to OFF within 3 ∼ 8°C (37 ∼

- - -

46°F) of “ON” temperature

ON: less than 0.5 Ω

OFF: More than 1 MΩ

Water Temperature Switch

Connections:

Rising Temperature

From OFF to ON @112 ∼ 118°C (226

- - -

∼ 232°F)

16-22 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Precautions

There are a number of important precautions that are

musts when servicing electrical systems. Learn and ob-

serve all the rules below.

○Do not reverse the battery lead connections. This will

burn out the diodes in the electrical parts.

○Always check battery condition before condemning other

parts of an electrical system. A fully charged battery is a

must for conducting accurate electrical system tests.

○The electrical parts should never be struck sharply, as

with a hammer, or allowed to fall on a hard surface. Such

a shock to the parts can damage them.

○To prevent damage to electrical parts, do not disconnect

the battery leads or any other electrical connections when

the ignition switch is on, or while the engine is running.

○Because of the large amount of current, never keep the

starter button pushed when the starter motor will not turn

over, or the current may burn out the starter motor wind-

ings.

○Do not use a meter illumination bulb rated for other than

voltage or wattage specified in the wiring diagram, as the

meter or gauge panel could be warped by excessive heat

radiated from the bulb.

○Take care not to short the leads that are directly con-

nected to the battery positive (+) terminal to the chassis

ground.

○Troubles may involve one or in some cases all items.

Never replace a defective part without determining what

CAUSED the failure. If the failure was caused by some

other item or items, they must be repaired or replaced, or

the new replacement will soon fail again.

○Make sure all connectors in the circuit are clean and tight,

and examine leads for signs of burning, fraying, etc. Poor

leads and bad connections will affect electrical system

operation.

○Measure coil and winding resistance when the part is cold

(at room temperature).

○Color Codes

BK: Black

G: Green

P: Pink

BL: Blue

GY: Gray

PU: Purple

BR: Brown

LB: Light blue

R: Red

CH: Chocolate

LG: Light green

W: White

DG: Dark green

O: Orange

Y: Yellow

○Electrical Connectors

Connectors [A]

16-24 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Electrical Wiring

Wiring Inspection

• Visually inspect the wiring for signs of burning, fraying,

etc.

If any wiring is in poor, replace the damaged wiring.

• Pull each connector [A] apart and inspect it for corrosion,

dirt, and damage.

If the connector is corroded or dirty, clean it carefully. If it

is damaged, replace it.

• Check the wiring for continuity.

○Use the wiring diagram to find the ends of the lead which

is suspected of being a problem.

○Connect the hand tester between the ends of the leads.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

○Set the tester to the × 1 Ω range, and read the meter.

If the tester does not read 0 Ω, the lead is defective. Re-

place the lead or the wiring harness [B] if necessary.

16-26 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Battery

Battery Activation

Electrolyte Filling

• Make sure that the model name [A] of the electrolyte con-

tainer matches the model name [B] of the battery. These

names must be the same.

Battery Model Name

EX250J8: YTX7A-BS

EX250J9 ∼ JA : YTX9-BS

EX250JB ∼ JC: FTX9-BS

NOTICE

Be sure to use the electrolyte container with the

same model name as the battery since the elec-

trolyte volume and specific gravity vary with the

battery type. This is to prevent overfilling of the

electrolyte, shorting the battery life, and deteriora-

tion of the battery performance.

NOTICE

Do not remove the aluminum sealing sheet [A] from

the filler ports [B] until just prior to use. Be sure to

use the dedicated electrolyte container for correct

electrolyte volume.

WARNING

The electrolyte contains sulfuric acid, which can

cause severe burns. To avoid sulfuric acid burns,

wear protective clothing and safety glasses when

handling electrolyte. If the electrolyte touches the

skin or eyes, wash the area with liberal amounts of

water and seek medical attention for more severe

burns.

• Place the battery on a level surface.

• Check to see that the sealing sheet has no peeling, tears,

or holes in it.

• Remove the sealing sheet.

NOTE

○The battery is vacuum sealed. If the sealing sheet has

leaked air into the battery, it may require a longer initial

charge.

• Remove the electrolyte container from the vinyl bag.

• Detach the strip of caps [A] from the container and set

aside, these will be used later to seal the battery.

NOTE

○Do not pierce or otherwise open the sealed cells [B] of

the electrolyte container. Do not attempt to separate

individual cells.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-27

Battery

• Place the electrolyte container upside down with the six

sealed cells into the filler ports of the battery. Hold the

container level, push down to break the seals of all six

cells. You will see air bubbles rising into each cell as the

ports fill.

NOTE

○Do not tilt the electrolyte container.

• Check the electrolyte flow.

If no air bubbles [A] are coming up from the filler ports, or

if the container cells have not emptied completely, tap the

container [B] a few times.

NOTE

○Be careful not to have the battery fall down.

• Keep the container in place. Don’t remove the container

from the battery, the battery requires all the electrolyte

from the container for proper operation.

NOTICE

Removal of the container before it is completely

empty can shorten the service life of the battery.

• After filling, let the battery sit for 20 ∼ 60 minutes with the

electrolyte container kept in place, which is required for

the electrolyte to fully permeate into the plates.

• Make sure that the container cells have emptied com-

pletely, and remove the container from the battery.

• Place the strip of caps [A] loosely over the filler ports,

press down firmly with both hands to seat the strip of caps

into the battery (don’t pound or hammer). When properly

installed, the strip of caps will be level with the top of the

battery.

NOTICE

Once the strip of caps is installed onto the battery,

never remove the caps, nor add water or electrolyte

to the battery.

NOTE

○Charging the battery immediately after filling can

shorten service life.

16-28 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Battery

Initial Charge

• Newly activated sealed batteries require an initial charge.

YTX7A-BS

Standard Charge:

0.7 A × 5 ∼ 10 hours

YTX9-BS/FTX9-BS

Standard Charge:

0.9 A × 5 ∼ 10 hours

If using a recommended battery charger, follow the

charger’s instructions for newly activated sealed battery.

Kawasaki-recommended chargers:

Battery Mate 150-9

OptiMate PRO 4-S/PRO S/PRO2

Yuasa MB-2040/2060

Christie C10122S

If the above chargers are not available, use equivalent

one.

• Let battery sit 30 minutes after initial charge, then check

voltage using a voltmeter. (Voltage immediately after

charging becomes temporarily high. For accurate mea-

suring, let the battery sit for given time.)

NOTE

○Charging rates will vary depending on how long the

battery has been stored, temperature, and the type of

charger used. If voltage is not at least 12.8 V (FTX9-BS:

12.6V), repeat charging cycle.

○To ensure maximum battery life and customer satisfac-

tion, it is recommended the battery be load tested at

three times its amp-hour rating for 15 seconds.

Re-check voltage and if less than 12.8 V (FTX9-BS:

12.6V) repeat the charging cycle and load test. If still

below 12.8 V (FTX9-BS: 12.6V) the battery is defective.

Precautions

1) No need of topping-up

No topping-up is necessary in this battery until it ends its life under normal use. Forcibly prying off the

seal cap to add water is very dangerous. Never do that.

2) Refreshing charge

If an engine will not start, a horn sounds weak, or lamps are dim, it indicates the battery has been

discharged. Give refresh charge for 5 to 10 hours with charge current shown in the specification

(see this chapter).

When a fast charge is inevitably required, do it following precisely the maximum charge current

and time conditions indicated on the battery.

NOTICE

This battery is designed to sustain no unusual deterioration if refresh-charged according

to the method specified above. However, the battery’s performance may be reduced no-

ticeably if charged under conditions other than given above. Never remove the seal cap

during refresh charge.

If by chance an excessive amount of gas is generated due to overcharging, the relief valve

releases the gas to keep the battery normal.

3) When you do not use the motorcycle for months:

Give a refresh charge before you store the motorcycle and store it with the negative cable re-

moved. Give a refresh charge once a month during storage.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-29

Battery

4) Battery life:

If the battery will not start the engine even after several refresh charges, the battery has ex-

ceeded its useful life. Replace it (Provided, however, the vehicle’s starting system has no prob-

lem).

DANGER

Batteries produce an explosive gas mixture of hydrogen and oxygen that can cause seri-

ous injury and burns if ignited. Keep the battery away from sparks and open flames during

charging. When using a battery charger, connect the battery to the charger before turning

on the charger. This procedure prevents sparks at the battery terminals which could ignite

any battery gases. The electrolyte contains sulfuric acid. Be careful not to have it touch

your skin or eyes. If touched, wash it off with liberal amount of water and seek medial at-

tention for more severe burns.

Interchange

A sealed battery can fully display its performance only when combined with a proper vehicle electric

system. Therefore, replace a sealed battery only on a motorcycle which was originally equipped with

a sealed battery.

Be careful, if a sealed battery is installed on a motorcycle which had an ordinary battery as original

equipment, the sealed battery’s life will be shortened.

Charging Condition Inspection

○Battery charging condition can be checked by measuring

battery terminal voltage with a digital voltmeter [A].

• Remove:

Front Seat (see Front Seat Removal in the Frame chap-

ter)

Battery Cover

• Disconnect the battery terminals.

NOTICE

Be sure to disconnect the negative (-) cable first.

• Measure the battery terminal voltage.

NOTE

○Measure with a digital voltmeter which can be read one

decimal place voltage.

If the reading is 12.8 V or more, no refresh charge is re-

quired, however, if the read is below the specified, refresh

charge is required.

Battery Terminal Voltage

Standard:

12.8 V or more

16-30 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Battery

Refreshing Charge

• Remove the battery [A] (see Battery Removal).

• Do refresh charge by following method according to the

battery terminal voltage.

WARNING

This battery is a sealed type. Never remove sealing

cap [B] even at charging. Never add water. Charge

with current and time as stated below.

Terminal Voltage: 11.5 ∼ less than 12.8 V

Standard Charge:

0.7 A × 5 ∼ 10 h (see following chart)

Quick Charge:

4A ×1 h

NOTICE

If possible, do not quick charge. If quick charge is

done unavoidably, do standard charge later on.

Terminal Voltage: less than 11.5 V

Charging Method:

0.7 A × 20 h

NOTE

○Increase the charging voltage to a maximum voltage of

25 V if the battery will not accept current initially. Charge

for no more than 5 minutes at the increased voltage then

check if the battery is drawing current. If the battery

will accept current decrease the voltage and charge by

the standard charging method described on the battery

case. If the battery will not accept current after 5 min-

utes, replace the battery.

Battery [A]

Battery Charger [B]

Standard Value [C]

Current starts to flow [D]

• Determine the battery condition after refresh charge.

○Determine the condition of the battery left for 30 minutes

after completion of the charge by measuring the terminal

voltage according to the table below.

Criteria

Judgement

12.8 V or higher

Good

12.0 ∼ lower than 12.8 V

Charge insufficient → Recharge

lower than 12.0 V

Unserviceable → Replace

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-31

Charging System

Alternator Cover Removal

• Drain:

Engine Oil (see Engine Oil Change in the Periodic Main-

tenance chapter)

Coolant (see Coolant Change in the Periodic Mainte-

nance chapter)

• Remove:

Left Lower Fairing (see Lower Fairing Removal in the

Frame chapter)

Shift Lever Link

Engine Sprocket Cover

Coolant Pipes [A], [B]

• Remove:

Alternator Cover Bolts [C]

Alternator Cover [D]

Alternator Cover Installation

• Apply liquid gasket to the alternator lead grommet and

crankcase halves mating surface [A] on the front and rear

side of the cover mount.

Sealant - Liquid Gasket, TB1211: 56019-120

• Check that the knock pins [B] are in place on the

crankcase.

• Install a new gasket and the alternator cover.

Torque - Water Hose Clamp Screws: 3.0 N·m (0.31 kgf·m,

27 in·lb)

Stater Coil Removal

• Remove:

Alternator Cover (see Alternator Cover Removal)

Crankshaft Sensor Screws [A] and Clamps

Alternator Lead Grommet [B]

Stator Coil Bolts [C]

• Remove the stator coil [D] from the alternator cover.

16-32 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Charging System

Stator Coil Installation

• Install the alternator leads [A] and crankshaft sensor leads

[B] into the alternator cover as figure.

Stator Coil [C]

Crankshaft Sensor Coil [D]

Rubber Damper [E]

Clamp [F]

Grommet [G]

Silicone Sealant Applied Areas [H]

○Fit the alternator leads and crankshaft sensor leads into

the grommet.

○Apply liquid gasket to the grommet, and fit it into the notch

in the alternator cover.

Sealant - Liquid Gasket, TB1211: 56019-120

• Install the crankshaft sensor.

• Clamp the harness of the crankshaft sensor leads.

• Tighten the stator bolts with the specified torque.

Torque - Alternator Stator Bolts:

12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 104

in·lb)

Alternator Rotor Removal

• Remove the alternator cover (see Alternator Cover Re-

moval).

• Hold the alternator rotor [A] steady with the flywheel

holder [B], and remove the rotor bolt [C].

Special Tool - Flywheel Holder: 57001-1313

• Remove the rotor [A] using the flywheel puller assembly

[B].

Special Tool - Flywheel Puller Assembly, M38 × 1.5/M35 ×

1.5: 57001-1405

NOTICE

Do not attempt to strike the alternator rotor itself.

Striking the rotor can cause the magnets to lose

their magnetism.

Alternator Rotor Installation

• Using a cleaning fluid, clean off any oil or dirt on the fol-

lowing portions, and dry them with a clean cloth.

Crankshaft Tapered Portion [A]

Alternator Rotor Tapered Portion [B]

• Apply a thin coat of molybdenum disulfide grease to the

crankshaft [C].

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-33

Charging System

• Install the starter gear [A] and washer [B].

• Again, clean the crankshaft tapered portion and dry there.

• Install the alternator rotor [A] while turning it counterclock-

wise to make easy to align the key [B] and key groove [C]

of the rotor.

NOTE

○Confirm the alternator rotor fit or not to the crankshaft

before tighten it with the specified torque.

○Install the rotor bolt and tighten it with 55 N·m (5.6 kgf·m,

41 ft·lb) of torque.

○Remove the rotor bolt.

○Check the tightening torque with flywheel puller.

If the rotor is not pulled out with 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 14.5

ft·lb) of drawing torque, it is installed correctly.

If the rotor is pulled out with 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 14.5 ft·lb)

of drawing torque, clean off any oil dirt or flaw of the crank-

shaft and rotor tapered portion and dry them with a clean

cloth. Then, confirm that it is not pulled out with above

torque.

• Tighten the alternator rotor bolt with holding the alternator

rotor steady with the flywheel holder.

Special Tool - Flywheel Holder: 57001-1313

Torque - Alternator Rotor Bolt: 88.2 N·m (9.0 kgf·m, 65 ft·lb)

• Apply a thin coat of molybdenum disulfide grease to the

shaft [A], and install it and starter idle gear [B].

• Install the alternator cover (see Alternator Cover Installa-

tion).

Alternator Inspection

There are three types of alternator failures: short, open

(wire burned out), or loss in rotor magnetism. A short or

open in one of the coil wires will result in either a low output,

or no output at all. A loss in rotor magnetism, which may be

caused by dropping or hitting the alternator, by leaving it

near an electromagnetic field, or just by aging, will result in

low output.

• To check the alternator output voltage, do the following

procedures.

○Turn off the ignition switch.

○Remove the right side cover (see Side Cover Removal in

the Frame chapter).

16-34 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Charging System

○Disconnect the alternator lead connector [A].

○Connect the hand tester [B]as shown in the table 1.

○Start the engine, and run it 4 000 rpm 5 minutes.

○Run it at the rpm given in the table 1.

○Note the voltage readings (total 3 measurements).

Table 1 Alternator Output Voltage

Tester

Connections

Reading

Range

Tester (+) to

Tester (-) to

@4 000 rpm

250 V AC

One Yellow lead

Another Yellow lead

about 40 V

If the output voltage shows the value in the table, the al-

ternator operates properly.

If the output voltage shows a much higher than the value

in the table, the regulator/rectifier is damaged. A much

lower reading than that given in the table indicates that

the alternator is defective.

• Check the stator coil resistance as follows.

○Stop the engine.

○Connect the hand tester as shown in the table 2.

○Note the readings (total 3 measurement).

Table 2 Stator Coil Resistance

Tester

Connections

Reading

Range

Tester (+) to

Tester (-) to

×1Ω

One Yellow lead

Another Yellow lead

0.05 ∼ 0.6 Ω

If there is more resistance than shown in the table, or no

hand tester reading (infinity) for any two leads, the stator

has an open lead and must be replaced. Much less than

this resistance means the stator is shorted, and must be

replaced.

• Using the highest resistance range of the hand tester,

measure the resistance between each of the black leads

and chassis ground.

Any hand tester reading less than infinity (∞) indicates a

short, necessitating stator replacement.

If the stator coils have normal resistance, but the voltage

check showed the alternator to be defective; then the rotor

magnets have probably weakened, and the rotor must be

replaced.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Regulator/Rectifier Inspection

• Remove:

Right Lower Fairing (see Lower Fairing Removal in the

Frame chapter)

Bolts [A]

Regulator/Rectifier [B]

Connector [C] (Disconnect)

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-35

Charging System

• Check conductivity of the following pair of terminals.

Rectifier Circuit Inspection

W-Y1,

W-Y2,

W-Y3

Tester connection

BK/Y-Y1,

BK/Y-Y2,

BK/Y-Y3

The resistance should be low in one direction and more

than ten times as much in the other direction. If any two

leads are low or high in both directions, the rectifier is

defective and the regulator/rectifier must be replaced.

NOTE

○The actual meter reading varies with the meter used

and the individual rectifier, but, generally speaking the

lower reading should be from zero to one half the scale.

Regulator Circuit Check

To test the regulator out of circuit, use three 12 V batteries

and a test light (12 V 3 ∼ 6 W bulb in a socket with leads).

NOTICE

The test light works as an indicator and also a cur-

rent limiter to protect the regulator/rectifier from ex-

cessive current. Do not use an ammeter instead of

a test light.

• Check to be sure the rectifier circuit is normal before con-

tinuing.

• Do the 1st step regulator circuit test.

○Connect the test light and the 12 V battery to the regula-

tor/rectifier as shown.

○Check the Y1, Y2 and Y3 terminal respectively.

If the test light turns on, the regulator/rectifier is defective.

Replace it.

If the test light does not turn on, continue the test.

• Do the 2nd step regulator circuit test.

○Connect the test light and the 12 V battery in the same

manner as specified in the “Regulator Circuit Test-1st

Step”.

○Apply 12 V to the voltage BR terminal.

○Check the Y1, Y2 and Y3 terminal respectively.

If the test light turns on, the regulator/rectifier is defective.

Replace it.

If the test light does not turn on, continue the test.

16-36 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Charging System

• Do the 3rd step regulator circuit test.

○Connect the test light and the 12 V battery in the same

manner as specified in the “Regulator Circuit Test-1st

Step”.

○Momentarily apply 24 V to the voltage BR terminal by

adding a 12 V battery.

○Check the Y1, Y2 and Y3 terminals respectively.

NOTICE

Do not apply more than 24 V. If more than 24 V is ap-

plied, the regulator/rectifier may be damaged. Do

not apply 24 V more than a few seconds. If 24 V

is applied for more than a few seconds, the regula-

tor/rectifier may be damaged.

If the test light did not light when the 24 V was applied

momentarily to the voltage monitoring terminal, the regu-

lator/rectifier is defective. Replace it.

If the regulator/rectifier passes all of the tests described,

it may still be defective. If the charging system still does

not work properly after checking all of the components

and the battery, test the regulator/rectifier by replacing it

with a known good unit.

Torque - Regulator/Rectifier Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87

in·lb)

Charging Voltage Inspection

• Check the battery condition (see Charging Condition In-

spect).

• Warm up the engine to obtain actual alternator operating

conditions.

• Remove the front seat (see Front Seat Removal in the

Frame chapter).

• Check that the ignition switch is turned off, and connect

the hand tester [A] as shown in the table.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

• Start the engine, and note the voltage readings at vari-

ous engine speeds with the headlight turned on and then

turned off. (To turn off the headlight, disconnect the head-

light connector in the upper fairing.) The readings should

show nearly battery voltage when the engine speed is low,

and, as the engine speed rises, the readings should also

rise. But they must be kept under the specified voltage.

Charging Voltage

Connections

Tester Range

Reading

Tester (+) to

Tester (-) to

25 V DC

Battery (+)

Battery (-)

14 ∼15 V

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-37

Charging System

• Turn off the ignition switch to stop the engine, and discon-

nect the hand tester.

If the charging voltage is kept between the values given in

the table, the charging system is considered to be working

normally.

If the charging voltage is much higher than the values

specified in the table, the regulator/rectifier is defective

or the regulator/rectifier leads are loose or open.

If the charging voltage does not rise as the engine speed

increases, then the regulator/rectifier is defective or the

alternator output is insufficient for the loads. Check the

alternator and regulator/rectifier to determine which part

is defective.

Charging System Circuit

1. Ignition Switch

2. Alternator

3. Regulator/Rectifier

4. Battery

5. Main Fuse 30 A

6. Load

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-39

Ignition System

WARNING

The ignition system produces extremely high volt-

age. Do not touch the spark plug, ignition coil or ig-

nition coil lead while the engine is running, or you

could receive a severe electrical shock.

NOTICE

Do not disconnect the battery cables or any other

electrical connections when the ignition switch is

on, or while the engine is running. This is to prevent

IC igniter damage.

Do not install the battery backwards. The negative

side is grounded. This is to prevent damage to the

diodes and IC igniter.

Crankshaft Sensor Removal

• Remove:

Front Seat (see Front Seat Removal in the Frame chap-

ter)

Left Lower Fairing (see Lower Fairing Removal in the

Frame chapter)

Alternator Cover (see Alternator Cover Removal)

• Disconnect the crankshaft sensor connector [A].

• Remove the crankshaft sensor screws [A] and clamp [B],

and then remove the crankshaft sensor [C].

Crankshaft Sensor Installation

• Apply silicone sealant to the grommet and fit it into the

notch in the alternator cover.

• Install the clamp and crankshaft sensor to the alternator

cover.

• Clamp the harness of crankshaft sensor leads as shown.

• Apply liquid gasket to the mating surface [A] of the

crankcase.

• Install the alternator cover (see Alternator Cover Installa-

tion).

Sealant - Liquid Gasket, TB1211: 56019-120

16-40 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Ignition System

Crankshaft Sensor Inspection

• Remove the right side cover (see Side Cover Removal in

the Frame chapter).

• Disconnect the crankshaft sensor connector [A] from near

the right side of the carburetor.

• Set the hand tester [B] to the × 100 Ω range and connect

the (+) lead [C] to the black lead and (-) lead [D] to the

yellow lead in the connector.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

If there is more resistance than the specified value, the

coil has an open lead and must be replaced. Much less

than this resistance means the coil is shorted, and must

be replaced.

Crankshaft Sensor Resistance: 100 ∼ 150 Ω

• Using the highest resistance range of the tester, measure

the resistance between the crankshaft sensor leads and

chassis ground.

Any tester reading less than infinity (∞) indicates a short,

necessitating replacement of the crankshaft sensor as-

sembly.

Crankshaft Sensor Peak Voltage Inspection

• Disconnect the crankshaft sensor connector [A].

• Set the hand tester [B] to the × 25 V DC range, and con-

nect it the peak voltage adapter [C] as shown in the dia-

gram.

• Using two auxiliary wires, connect the black lead (-) of the

adapter to black lead [D] and red lead (+) to yellow lead

[E] in the crankshaft sensor connector [A].

• Turn the ignition switch and engine stop switch on.

• Grasp the clutch lever and pushing the starter button, turn

the engine 4 ∼ 5 seconds with the transmission gear in

neutral to measure the crankshaft sensor peak voltage.

• Repeat the measurement 5 or more times.

Crankshaft Sensor Peak Voltage

Standard:

3.2 V or more

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Peak Voltage Adapter: 57001-1415

Type: KEK-54-9-B

Ignition Coil Removal

• Remove:

Front Seat (see Front Seat Removal in the Frame chap-

ter)

Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel System

chapter)

Right or Left Lower Fairing (see Lower Fairing Removal

in the Frame chapter)

• Disconnect the primary winding leads [A] from the ignition

coil.

• Pull out the spark plug cap from the spark plug.

• Remove the mounting bolts [B], and take out the ignition

coil [C].

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-41

Ignition System

Ignition Coil Installation

• Install the ignition coil as shown (both sides).

Ignition Coil (Right Side) [A]

Bolt [B]

Washer [C]

Nut [D]

Washer [E]

0 ∼ 3 mm (0.12 in.) [F]

Ignition Coil Inspection

• Remove the ignition coil (see ignition Coil Removal).

• Measure the arcing distance with the suitable commer-

cially available coil tester [B] to check the condition of the

ignition coil [A].

• Connect the ignition coil (with the spark plug cap left at-

tached at the end of the spark plug lead) to the tester in

the manner prescribed by the manufacturer and measure

the arcing distance.

WARNING

To avoid extremely high voltage shocks, do not

touch the coil body or leads.

If the distance reading is less than the specified value, the

ignition coil or spark plug cap is defective.

Ignition Coil Arcing Distance

Standard: 7 mm (0.28 in.) or more

• To determine which part is defective, measure the arcing

distance again with the spark plug cap removed from the

ignition coil. Remove the cap by turning it counterclock-

wise.

If the arcing distance is subnormal as before, the trouble

is with the ignition coil itself. If the arcing distance is now

normal, the trouble is with the spark plug cap.

If the coil tester is not available, the coil [C] can be

checked for a broken or badly shorted winding with the

hand tester (special tool).

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

NOTE

○The hand tester cannot detect layer shorts and shorts

resulting from insulation breakdown under high voltage.

• Measure the primary winding resistance [A] as follows.

○Connect the hand tester between the coil terminal and

primary winding terminal.

16-42 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Ignition System

• Measure the secondary winding resistance [B] as follows.

○Remove the plug cap by turning it counterclockwise.

○Connect the tester between the high tension lead and the

ignition coil terminal.

If the tester does not read as specified, replace the coil.

Ignition Coil Resistance

Standard: Primary windings 2.1 ∼ 3.2 Ω (× 1 Ω)

Secondary windings 10 ∼ 16 kΩ (× 1 kΩ)

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

• Visually inspect the secondary winding lead.

If it is damaged, replace the ignition coil.

Ignition Coil Primary Peak Voltage

NOTE

○Be sure the battery is fully charged.

• Remove:

Front Seat (see Front Seat Removal in the Frame chap-

ter)

Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel System

chapter)

Right or Left Lower Fairing (see Lower Fairing in the

Frame chapter)

• Remove the spark plug cap.

• Measure the ignition coil primary peak voltage as follows.

• Install the new spark plug [G] into the spark plug cap, and

ground it onto the engine.

• Connect the peak voltage adapter [A] into the hand tester

[B] and set it to the × 250 V DC range.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-43

Ignition System

Adapter red lead →

Ignition Coil Primary Lead

Terminal [C]

Adapter black lead →

Ignition Coil Ground Terminal

IC Igniter [D]

Battery [E]

Ignition Coil [F]

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Peak Voltage Adapter: 57001-1415

Type: KEK-54-9-B

WARNING

To avoid extremely high voltage shock, do not

touch the spark plug or tester connection.

• Turn the ignition switch and engine stop switch on.

• Pushing the starter button, turn the engine 4 ∼ 5 seconds

with the transmission in neutral to measure the ignition

coil primary peak voltage.

• Repeat the measurement 5 or more times.

Ignition Coil Primary Peak Voltage

Standard:

223 V or more

If the reading is less than the specified value, check the

following:

Ignition Coil (see Ignition Coil Inspection)

Crankshaft Sensor (see Crankshaft Sensor Inspection)

IC Igniter (see IC Igniter Inspection)

Spark Plug Removal

• Refer to Spark Plug Replacement in the Periodic Mainte-

nance chapter (see Spark Plug Replacement in the Peri-

odic Maintenance chapter).

Spark Plug Installation

• Refer to Spark Plug Replacement in the Periodic Mainte-

nance chapter (see Spark Plug Replacement in the Peri-

odic Maintenance chapter).

Spark Plug Condition Inspection

• Remove the spark plugs (see Spark Plug Replacement).

• Visually inspect the spark plugs.

If the spark plug center electrode [A] and/or side elec-

trode [B] are corroded or damaged, or if the insulator [C]

is cracked, replace the plug.

If the spark plug is dirtied or the carbon is accumulated,

replace the spark plug.

• Measure the gap [D] with a wire-type thickness gauge.

If the gap is incorrect, replace the spark plug.

Spark Plug Gap:

0.7 ∼ 0.8 mm (0.03 ∼ 0.04 in.)

• Use the standard spark plug or its equivalent.

Spark Plug:

CR8E or U24ESR-N

16-44 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Ignition System

IC Igniter Inspection

NOTICE

When inspecting the IC igniter [A], observe the fol-

lowing to avoid damage to the IC igniter.

Do not disconnect the IC igniter connector [B] with

the ignition switch on.

This may damage the IC igniter.

Do not disconnect the battery leads while the en-

gine is running. This may damage the IC igniter.

IC Igniter Operation Inspection

• Remove the seat cover (see Rear Fender Removal in the

Frame chapter).

• Disconnect the IC Igniter connector.

• Set the hand tester [A] to the × 25 V DC range, and con-

nect it to the connector [B] come from harness side as

follows.

Tester (+) terminal [C] → BR/BK lead

Tester (-) terminal [D] → BK/Y lead

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Needle Adapter Set: 57001-1457

• Turn the ignition switch on, and read the voltage.

IC Igniter Operation Voltage: Battery Voltage

If the tester reading is not specified one, check the battery

voltage, ignition switch and ignition fuse.

Diodes Inspection

• Remove the left lower fairing (see Lower Fairing in the

Frame chapter).

• Disconnect the diode [A].

• Remove the front seat (see Front Seat Removal in the

Frame chapter).

• Disconnect the diode assemblies [A].

• Zero the hand tester, and connect it to each diode terminal

to check the resistance in both directions.

The resistance should be low in one direction and more

than ten times as much in the other direction. If any diode

shows low or high in both directions, the diode is defective

and the diode assembly must be replaced.

16-48 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Electric Starter System

• Apply a small amount of engine oil to the O-ring [A].

• Put the starter motor on the crankcase.

• Press the part of the starter motor end cover and push the

starter motor into the crankcase hole.

• Tighten the starter motor mounting bolts.

• Connect the starter motor lead to the starter motor termi-

nal.

• Install:

Starter Idle Gear

Alternator Cover

Engine Sprocket Cover

Shift Lever

Water Pipes

Starter Motor Disassembly

• Remove the starter motor (see Starter Motor Removal).

• Remove the bolts [A] and take out both end covers [B].

• Take the armature off from the pinion gear side of the

yoke.

• Remove the terminal locknut [A] and washers, and then

remove the brush and terminal bolt [B] with the brush plate

[C] from the yoke.

Starter Motor Assembly

• Replace the O-rings with a new ones.

• Apply a thin coat of high-temperature grease to the oil seal

[A] and needle bearing [B].

• Fit the toothed washer [C] into the end cover.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-49

Electric Starter System

• Install the brush, terminal bolt, washers with the brush

plate [A] and tighten the terminal locknut [B].

Torque - Starter Motor Terminal Locknut:

9.8

N·m (1.0

kgf·m, 87 in·lb)

• Fit the tongue [C] on the brush plate into the end cover

groove.

• Install the steel washer [A] and resin washer [B] into the

starter shaft, and insert the armature [C] between the

brushes.

• Align the end cover [A] with the mark [C] of the yoke [B].

Torque - Starter Motor Assembly Bolts:

3.5

N·m (0.36

kgf·m, 31 in·lb)

Carbon Brush Inspection

• Measure the length [C] of each brush [A].

If any is worn down to the service limit, replace the carbon

brush holder assembly [B].

Carbon Brush Length

Standard:

10 mm (0.39 in.)

Service Limit: 5 mm (0.20 in.)

Commutator Inspection, Cleaning

• Smooth the commutator surface [A] if necessary with fine

emery cloth [B], and clean out the grooves.

16-50 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Electric Starter System

• Measure the outer diameter [A] of the commutator [B].

Replace the starter motor with a new one if the commu-

tator diameter is less than the service limit.

Commutator Diameter

Standard:

28 mm (1.10 in.)

Service Limit:

27 mm (1.06 in.)

Armature Inspection

• Using the × 1 Ω hand tester range, measure the resis-

tance between any two commutator segments [A].

If there is a high resistance or no reading (∞) between any

two segments, a winding is open and the starter motor

must be replaced.

• Using the highest hand tester range, measure the resis-

tance between the segments and the shaft [B].

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-51

Starter System

If there is any reading at all, the armature has a short and

the starter motor must be replaced.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

NOTE

○Even if the foregoing checks show the armature to be

good, it may be defective in some manner not readily

detectable with the hand tester. If all other starter motor

and starter motor circuit components check good, but

the starter motor still does not turn over or only turns

over weakly, replace the starter motor with a new one.

Brush Lead Inspection

• Using the × 1 Ω hand tester range, measure the continuity

between the following:

Terminal Bolt and Positive (+) Brush [A]

Brush Plate and Negative (-) Brush [B]

If there is not close to zero ohms, the brush lead has

an open. Replace the terminal bolt assembly and/or the

brush holder assembly.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Terminal Bolt Inspection

• Using the highest hand tester range, measure the resis-

tance as shown.

Terminal Bolt and Brush Plate [A]

Terminal Bolt and Negative Brush Holder [B]

Terminal Bolt and Yoke [C]

If there is any reading, the brush holder assembly and/or

terminal bolt assembly have a short. Replace the brush

holder assembly and the terminal bolt assembly.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Starter Relay Inspection

• Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel

System chapter).

• Remove:

Fuel Tank Bracket Bolts [A]

Fuel Tank Bracket [B]

16-52 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Starter System

• Disconnect the cables [A] and remove the starter relay [C]

with the main fuse [B].

• Remove the main fuse from the starter relay.

• Connect the hand tester [A] and 12 V battery [B] to the

starter relay [C] as shown.

If the relay does not work as specified, the relay is defec-

tive. Replace the relay.

Relay Function Test

Tester Range: × 1 Ω range

Standard: When battery is connected → 0 Ω

When battery is disconnected → ∞ Ω

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Starter Circuit Relay Inspection

• Remove the front seat (see Front Seat Removal in the

Frame chapter).

• Remove the starter circuit relay [A].

• Connect the hand tester [A] and 12 V battery [B] to the

starter circuit relay [C] as shown.

If the relay does not work as specified, the relay is defec-

tive. Replace the relay.

Testing Relay

Tester Range:

× 1 Ω

Criteria:

When battery is connected → 0 Ω

When battery is disconnected → ∞ Ω

Relay Coil Terminal [1] and [2]

Relay Switch Terminals [3] and [4]

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-55

Lighting System

Headlight Beam Horizontal Adjustment

• Refer to Headlight Aiming Inspection in the Periodic Main-

tenance chapter (see Headlight Aiming Inspection in the

Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Headlight Beam Vertical Adjustment

• Refer to Headlight Aiming Inspection in the Periodic Main-

tenance chapter (see Headlight Aiming Inspection in the

Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Headlight Bulb Replacement

• Remove:

Upper Fairing (see Upper Fairing Removal in the Frame

chapter)

Headlight Connector

Headlight Bulb Dust Cover

Clip [A] (Disconnect)

Headlight Bulb [B]

NOTICE

When handling the quartz-halogen bulb, never

touch the glass portion with bare hands. Always

use a clean cloth. Oil contamination from hands or

dirty rags can reduce bulb life or cause the bulb to

explode.

NOTE

○Clean off any contamination that inadvertently gets on

the bulb with alcohol or soap and water solution.

• Fit the dust cover [A] firmly onto the bulb [B] as shown.

Dust Cover [A]

Top Mark [B]

Bulb [C]

Good [D]

Bad [E]

• Connect the headlight connector.

• Adjust the headlight beam (see Headlight Aiming Inspec-

tion in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-57

Lighting System

• Push [A] the bulb [B] in and turn [C] it counterclockwise

and then remove it.

• Insert the new bulb [A] by aligning the projections [B] with

the grooves [C] in the socket.

• Push the bulb and turn it clockwise and then replace it. It

should lock in lock position.

• Insert the socket by aligning the projection with the notch

in the wall and turn the socket clockwise.

Rear Turn Signal Light Bulb Replacement

• Remove the lens mounting screw [A] and remove the

lens.

• Push [A] the bulb [B] in and turn [C] it counterclockwise,

and then remove it.

• Insert the new bulb [A] by aligning the projections [B] with

the grooves [C] in the wall of the socket.

• Push the bulb in and turn it clockwise and then install it.

It should lock in position.

• Install the lens, and tighten the lens mounting screw. Be

careful not to overtighten the lens mounting screw.

16-58 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Lighting System

Turn Signal Relay Inspection

• Remove:

Seat Cover (see Rear Fender Removal in the Frame

chapter)

Turn Signal Relay Connector [A]

Turn Signal Relay [B]

• Connect one 12 V battery and turn signal lights as indi-

cated in the figure, and count how many times the lights

flash for one minute.

Turn Signal Relay [A]

Turn Signal Lights [B]

12 V Battery [C]

If the lights do not flash as specified, replace the turn sig-

nal relay.

Testing Turn Signal Relay

Load

The Number of

Flashing times (c/m*)

Wattage (W)

Turn Signal Lights

1**

21 or 23

Light stays on

42 or 46

75-95

(*): Cycle(s) per minute

(**): Correspond to “one light burned out”

Headlight Circuit Relay Inspection

• Remove the front seat (see Front Seat Removal in the

Frame chapter).

• Remove the headlight circuit relay [A].

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-63

Radiator Fan System

WARNING

A spinning radiator fan can cause serious injury.

The radiator fan is connected directly to the battery

and may start even if the ignition switch is off. Do

not touch the radiator fan until it has been discon-

nected from the battery.

Fan System Circuit Inspection

• Disconnect the leads [A] from the radiator fan switch.

• Using an auxiliary wire [B], connect the radiator fan switch

leads.

If the fan rotates, inspect the fan switch.

If the fan does not rotate, inspect the following.

Leads and Connectors

Main Fuse and Fan Fuse

Fan Motor

Fan Motor Inspection

• Remove the right lower fairing (see Frame chapter).

• Disconnect the 2-pin connector [A] in the fan motor leads.

• Using two auxiliary wires, supply battery [B] power to the

fan motor.

If the fan does not rotate, the fan motor is defective and

must be replaced.

Lead Connections

Battery (+) → BL Lead

Battery (-) → BK Lead

Radiator Fan Circuit

1. Radiator Fan

4. Fan Fuse 10 A

2. Radiator Fan Switch

5. Main Fuse (30 A)

3. Fuse Box

6. Battery

16-64 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Meters, Gauge and Indicator Unit

Meter Unit Removal

• Remove:

Upper Cover [A] (see Upper Cover Removal in the

Frame chapter)

• Unscrew the bolts [A] and remove the meter unit [B] from

the upper cover.

NOTICE

Place the meter unit so that the face is up. If a meter

unit is left upside down or sideways for any length

of time, it will malfunction.

Meter Unit Disassembly

• Remove:

Meter Unit (see Meter Unit Removal)

Reset Knob

Screws [A]

Meter Cover [B]

• Remove the speedometer [A], tachometer [B] and fuel

gauge [C] by removing screws [D].

NOTICE

Do not remove a meter pointer unless the meter is

to be replace. The pointers cannot be reinstalled.

The pointer mounting is different from replacement

meters.

Meter Unit Installation

• Check to see that the rubber damper [A] are installed on

the meter mounting bracket [B].

• The installation is a reverse of the meter unit removal.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-65

Meters, Gauge and Indicator Unit

Indicator Light Replacement

• Remove the meter unit (see Meter Unit Removal).

• To remove the wedge base type bulbs, pull out the bulb

sockets [A] and pull the bulbs [B] off the sockets.

NOTICE

Do not use bulbs rated for greater wattage than

the specified wattage, as the meter or gauge panel

could become warped by excessive heat radiated

from the bulbs.

Tachometer Inspection

• Check the tachometer circuit wiring.

If all wiring and components other than the tachometer

unit check out good, the unit is suspect. Check the unit

as shown.

• Remove the following.

Upper Fairing (see Upper Fairing Removal in the Frame

chapter)

• Disconnect the BK lead.

• Reinstall the BK terminal screw.

• Turn the engine stop switch to RUN position.

• Turn the ignition switch ON.

• Open or connect the BK lead [A] to the BK terminal screw

[B]. Then the pointer should flick.

• Turn the ignition switch OFF.

If the pointer does not flick, replace the tachometer unit.

Tachometer Circuit

1. Tachometer

2. Fuse Box

3. Ignition Fuse 10 A

4. Ignition Switch

5. Main Fuse 30 A

6. Battery

7. IC Igniter

16-66 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Meters, Gauge and Indicator Unit

Water Temperature Warning System Inspection

The water temperature warning light goes on when the

ignition switch is turned on and goes off soon after the en-

gine starts running (oil pressure switch off) to ensure that

its circuit functions properly. The warning light also goes

on whenever the coolant temperature rises to 110 ∼ 120°C

(230 ∼ 248°F) when the motorcycles is in operation. If it

stays on, stop the engine and check the coolant level in the

reserve tank after the engine cools down.

• Inspect the water temperature warning light and the sys-

tem wiring (see Wiring Inspection).

• Turn on the ignition switch.

• Disconnect the water temperature switch lead [A] and oil

pressure switch lead, then ground them together to the

frame or engine using auxiliary lead.

If the warning light is lit, inspect the water temperature

switch (see Specifications) and the oil pressure switch [B].

Replace any switch if damaged.

If the warning light is not lit, check the warning light bulb.

Water Temperature Warning System Circuit

1. Ignition Switch

2. Fuse Box

3. Ignition Fuse 10 A

4. Starter Relay

5. Main Fuse (30 A)

6. Water Temperature Warning Light

7. Oil Pressure Waning Light

8. Diode

9. Water Temperature Switch

10. Oil Pressure Switch

11. Battery

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-67

Switches and Sensor

Brake Light Timing Inspection

• Refer to Brake Light Switch Operation Inspection in the

Periodic Maintenance chapter.

Brake Light Timing Adjustment

• Refer to Brake Light Switch Operation Inspection in the

Periodic Maintenance chapter.

Switch Inspection

• Using a hand tester, check to see that only the con-

nections shown in the table have continuity (about zero

ohms).

○For the handlebar switches and the ignition switch, refer

to the tables in the Wiring Diagram.

If the switch has an open or short, repair it or replace it

with a new one.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

*: Engine lubrication system is in good condition.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-69

Switches and Sensor

Radiator Fan Switch Inspection

• Remove the fan switch.

• Suspend the switch [A] in a container of coolant so that

the temperature-sensing projection and threaded portion

are submerged.

• Suspend an accurate thermometer [B] in the coolant so

that the sensitive portions [C] are located in almost the

same depth.

NOTE

○The switch and thermometer must not touch the con-

tainer sides or bottom.

• Place the container over a source of heat and gradu-

ally raise the temperature of the coolant while stirring the

coolant gently.

• Using the hand tester, measure the internal resistance

of the switch across the terminals at the temperatures

shown in the table.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

If the hand tester does not show the specified values, re-

place the switch.

Fan Switch Resistance

○Rising temperature:

From OFF to ON at 95 ∼ 101°C (196 ∼ 203°F)

○Falling temperature:

From ON to OFF within 3 ∼ 8°C (37 ∼ 46°F) of “ON”

temperature

ON: Less than 0.5 Ω

OFF: More than 1 MΩ

Water Temperature Switch Inspection

• Remove the water temperature switch.

• Suspend the switch [A] in a container of coolant so that

the temperature-sensing projection and threaded portion

are submerged.

• Suspend an accurate thermometer [B] in the coolant so

that the sensitive portions [C] are located in almost the

same depth.

NOTE

○The switch and thermometer must not touch the con-

tainer side or bottom.

• Place the container over a source of heat and gradu-

ally raise the temperature of the coolant while stirring the

coolant gently.

• Using the hand tester, measure the internal resistance of

the sensor across the terminal and the body at the tem-

peratures shown in the table.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

16-70 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Switches and Sensor

If the hand tester does not show the specified values, re-

place the switch.

Water Temperature Switch Connections

Rising temperature:

From OFF to ON at 112 ∼ 118°C (226 ∼ 232°F)

Falling temperature:

From ON to OFF at 108°C (226°F) ∼ temperature less

than ON temperature

ON: Less than 0.5 Ω

OFF: More than 1 MΩ

Fuel Level Sensor Inspection

• Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel

System chapter).

• Remove the fuel level sensor from the fuel tank.

• Check that the float moves up and down smoothly without

binding. It should go down under its own weight.

If the float does not move smoothly, replace the sensor.

[A] Float in Full Position

[B] Float in Empty Position

[C] Float Arm Stoppers

• Using a hand tester, measure the resistance across the

terminals in the fuel level sensor lead connector [A].

If the tester reading are not as specified, or do not change

smoothly according as the float moves up and down, re-

place the sensor.

Fuel Level Sensor Resistance

Standard:

Full position:

4 ∼ 10 Ω

Empty position:

90 ∼ 100 Ω

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-71

Fuses

30 A Main Fuse Removal

• Remove the front seat (see Front Seat Removal in the

Frame chapter).

• Unlock the hook to clear the lids of the main fuse cover

[A].

• Pull up the main fuse cover with the starter relay connec-

tor.

Fuse Removal

• Remove the front seat (see Front Seat Removal in the

Frame chapter).

• Unlock the hook to lift up the lid from the fuse case.

• Pull the fuses [A] straight up from the fuse case with the

nose plier.

Fuse Installation

If a fuse fails during operation, inspect the electrical sys-

tem to determine the cause, and then replace it with a

new fuse of proper amperage.

• Install the junction box fuses on the original position as

specified on the lid.

Fuse Inspection

• Remove the fuse, and inspect the fuse element.

If the fuse element is blown, replace the fuse.

Housing [A]

Fuse Element [B]

Terminal [C]

Blown Element [D]

NOTE

○Before replacing a blown fuse, always check the am-

perage in the affected circuit. If the amperage is equal

to or greater than the fuse rating, check the wiring and

related components for a short circuit.

NOTICE

When replacing a fuse, be sure the new fuse

matches the specified fuse rating for that circuit.

Installation of a fuse with a higher rating may cause

damage to wiring ad components, and installation

of a fuse with a lower rating may cause the fuse to

be blown quickly.

APPENDIX 17-21

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. License Plate Light Connector

2. Tail/Brake Light Connector

3. IC Igniter Connector

4. Rear Right Turn Signal Light Connector

5. Rear Left Turn Signal Light Connector

6. Brake Light Switch Connector

7. Starter Relay Connector

8. Headlight Circuit Relay

9. Diode

10. Diode

11. Battery (-) Cable

12. Alternator Connector

13. Crankshaft Sensor Connector

14. Front Turn Signal Light Connector

15. Fuel Level Sensor Connector

16. Ignition Switch Connector

17. Frame Ground Terminal

18. Radiator Fan Switch Connector

19. Ignition Coil Connector

20. Right Switch Housing Connector

21. Radiator Fan Connector

22. Bands

17-40 APPENDIX

Troubleshooting Guide

NOTE

Crankshaft sensor trouble

○This is not an exhaustive list, giving every

Ignition coil trouble

possible cause for each problem listed. It

Ignition or engine stop switch shorted

is meant simply as a rough guide to assist

Wiring shorted or open

the troubleshooting for some of the more

Main fuse blown

common difficulties.

Compression Low:

Spark plug loose

Engine Doesn’t Start, Starting

Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened

Difficulty:

down

Starter motor not rotating:

No valve clearance

Starter lockout switch or neutral switch trou-

Cylinder, piston worn

ble

Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or

Starter motor trouble

sticking)

Battery voltage low

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive

Starter relays not contacting or operating

Cylinder head gasket damaged

Starter button not contacting

Cylinder head warped

Wiring open or shorted

Valve spring broken or weak

Ignition switch trouble

Valve not seating properly (valve bent,

Engine stop switch trouble

worn, or carbon accumulation on the

Main fuse blown

seating surface)

Starter motor rotating but engine doesn’t

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

turn over:

Pilot screw or idle adjusting screw malad-

Starter motor clutch trouble

justed

Engine won’t turn over:

Pilot jet or air bleed hole clogged

Valve seizure

Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, element

Valve lifter seizure

missing

Cylinder, piston seizure

Starter jet clogged

Crankshaft seizure

Connecting rod small end seizure

Poor Running at Low Speed:

Connecting rod big end seizure

Spark weak:

Transmission gear or bearing seizure

Battery voltage low

Camshaft seizure

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted

Starter idle gear seizure

Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trou-

No fuel flow:

ble

No fuel in fuel tank

Spark plug cap shorted or not in good con-

Fuel tap vacuum hose clogged

tact

Fuel tank air vent obstructed

Spark plug incorrect

Fuel tap clogged

IC igniter trouble

Fuel line clogged

Crankshaft sensor trouble

Float valve clogged

Ignition coil trouble

Engine flooded:

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high

Pilot screw maladjusted

Float valve worn or stuck open

Pilot jet, or air passage clogged

Starting technique faulty (When flooded,

Air bleed pipe bleed holes clogged

crank the engine with the throttle fully

Pilot passage clogged

opened to allow more air to reach the

Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or ele-

engine.)

ment missing

No spark; spark weak:

Choke plunger stuck open

Battery voltage low

Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted

or too low

Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trou-

Fuel tank air vent obstructed

ble

Carburetor holder loose

Spark plug cap not in good contact

Air cleaner duct loose

Spark plug incorrect

Compression low:

IC igniter trouble

Spark plug loose

Neutral, starter lockout, or sidestand switch

Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened

trouble

down

APPENDIX 17-41

Troubleshooting Guide

No valve clearance

Cylinder head warped

Cylinder, piston worn

Valve spring broken or weak

Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or

Valve not seating properly (valve bent,

sticking)

worn, or carbon accumulation on the

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive

seating surface.)

Cylinder head warped

Knocking:

Cylinder head gasket damaged

Carbon built up in combustion chamber

Valve spring broken or weak

Fuel poor quality or incorrect

Valve not seating properly (valve bent,

Spark plug incorrect

worn, or carbon accumulation on the

IC igniter trouble

seating surface)

Miscellaneous:

Other:

Throttle valve won’t fully open

IC igniter trouble

Vacuum piston doesn’t slide smoothly

Carburetor not synchronizing

Brake dragging

Vacuum piston doesn’t slide smoothly

Clutch slipping

Engine oil viscosity too high

Overheating

Drive train trouble

Engine oil level too high

Brake dragging

Engine oil viscosity too high

Drive train trouble

Poor Running or No Power at High

Speed:

Overheating:

Firing incorrect:

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted

Spark plug cap shorted or not in good con-

Spark plug incorrect

tact

IC Igniter trouble

Spark plug incorrect

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

IC igniter trouble

Main jet clogged or wrong size

Crankshaft sensor trouble

Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too low

Ignition coil trouble

Carburetor holder loose

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

Air cleaner poorly sealed, or missing

Choke plunger stuck open

Air cleaner duct poorly sealed

Main jet clogged or wrong size

Air cleaner clogged

Jet needle or needle jet worn

Compression high:

Air jet clogged

Carbon built up in combustion chamber

Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high

Engine load faulty:

or too low

Clutch slipping

Bleed holes of needle jet holder or needle

Engine oil level too high

jet clogged

Engine oil viscosity too high

Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or miss-

Drive train trouble

ing

Brake dragging

Air cleaner duct poorly sealed

Lubrication inadequate:

Water or foreign matter in fuel

Engine oil level too low

Fuel to carburetor insufficient

Engine oil poor quality or incorrect

Fuel tank air vent obstructed

Coolant incorrect:

Carburetor holder loose

Coolant level too low

Fuel tap clogged

Coolant deteriorated

Fuel line clogged

Cooling system component incorrect:

Compression low:

Radiator fin damaged

Spark plug loose

Thermostat trouble

Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened

Radiator cap trouble

down

Radiator fan switch trouble

No valve clearance

Fan relay trouble

Cylinder, piston worn

Fan motor broken

Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or

Fan blade damaged

sticking)

Water pump not turning

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive

Water pump impeller damaged

Cylinder head gasket damaged

17-42 APPENDIX

Troubleshooting Guide

Over Cooling:

Abnormal Engine Noise:

Cooling system component incorrect:

Knocking:

Radiator fan switch trouble

IC igniter trouble

Thermostat trouble

Carbon built up in combustion chamber

Gauge incorrect:

Fuel poor quality or incorrect

Water temperature gauge broken

Spark plug incorrect

Water temperature sensor broken

Overheating

Piston slap:

Clutch Operation Faulty:

Cylinder/piston clearance excessive

Clutch slipping:

Cylinder, piston worn

Friction plate worn or warped

Connecting rod bent

Steel plate worn or warped

Piston pin, piston pin hole worn

Clutch inner cable trouble

Valve noise:

No clutch lever play

Valve clearance incorrect

Clutch spring broken or weak

Valve spring broken or weak

Clutch release mechanism trouble

Camshaft bearing worn

Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn

Other noise:

Clutch not disengaging properly:

Connecting rod small end clearance exces-

Clutch plate warped or too rough

sive

Clutch spring compression uneven

Connecting rod big end clearance exces-

Engine oil deteriorated

sive

Engine oil viscosity too high

Piston ring worn, broken, or stuck

Engine oil level too high

Piston seizure, damage

Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft

Piston ring groove worn

Clutch release mechanism trouble

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive

Clutch hub spline damaged

Cylinder head gasket leaking

Clutch friction plate installed wrong

Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head con-

Clutch lever play excessive

nection

Clutch hub nut loose

Crankshaft runout excessive

Engine mounts loose

Gear Shifting Faulty:

Crankshaft bearing worn

Doesn’t go into gear; shift pedal doesn’t

Camshaft chain tensioner trouble

return:

Camshaft chain, sprocket, guide worn

Clutch not disengaging

Alternator rotor loose

Shift fork bent or seized

Primary gear worn or broken

Gear stuck on the shaft

Shift return spring weak or broken

Abnormal Drive Train Noise:

Shift return spring pin loose

Clutch noise:

Pawl spring broken

Weak or damaged damper

Shift mechanism arm broken

Clutch housing/friction plate clearance ex-

Shift pawl broken

cessive

Jumps out of gear:

Clutch housing gear worn

Shift fork ear worn

Transmission noise:

Gear groove worn

Bearings worn

Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn

Transmission gears worn or chipped

Shift drum groove worn

Metal chips jammed in gear teeth

Neutral positioning pin spring weak or bro-

Engine oil insufficient

ken

Drive line noise:

Shift fork guide pin worn

Drive chain adjusted improperly

Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear

Drive chain worn

splines worn

Rear and/or engine sprocket worn

Overshifts:

Chain lubrication insufficient

Neutral positioning lever spring weak or

Rear wheel misaligned

broken

Pawl spring broken

Abnormal Frame Noise:

Front fork noise:

Oil insufficient or too thin

APPENDIX 17-43

Troubleshooting Guide

Spring weak or broken

Handlebar shakes or excessively vibrates:

Rear shock absorber noise:

Tire worn

Shock absorber damaged

Swingarm pivot bearings worn

Disc brake noise:

Rim warped, or not balanced

Pad installed incorrectly

Wheel bearing worn

Pad surface glazed

Handlebar clamp bolts loose

Disc warped

Steering stem head nut loose

Caliper trouble

Front/rear axle runout too large

Other noise:

Handlebar pulls to one side:

Bracket, nut, bolt, etc.

not properly

Frame bent

mounted or tightened

Wheel misalignment

Swingarm bent or twisted

Oil Pressure Warning Light Goes On:

Steering maladjusted

Engine oil pump damaged

Front fork bent

Engine oil screen clogged

Right and left front fork oil level uneven

Engine oil level too low

Shock absorption unsatisfactory:

Engine oil viscosity too low

(Too hard)

Camshaft bearing worn

Front fork oil excessive

Crankshaft bearings worn

Front fork oil viscosity too high

Oil pressure switch damaged

Rear shock absorber adjustment too hard

Wiring faulty

Tire air pressure too high

Relief valve stuck open

Front fork bent

O-ring at the oil passage in the crankcase

(Too soft)

damaged

Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking

Engine oil filter clogged

Front fork oil viscosity too low

Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weak

Exhaust Smokes Excessively:

Rear shock absorber oil leaking

White smoke:

Rear shock absorber adjustment too soft

Piston oil ring worn

Tire air pressure too low

Cylinder worn

Valve oil seal damaged

Brake Doesn’t Hold:

Valve guide worn

Air in the brake line

Engine oil level too high

Pad or disc worn

Black smoke:

Brake fluid leakage

Air cleaner clogged

Disc warped

Main jet too large or fallen off

Contaminated pad

Choke plunger stuck open

Brake fluid deteriorated

Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high

Primary or secondary cup damaged

Brown smoke:

Master cylinder scratched inside

Main jet too small

Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too low

Battery Trouble:

Air cleaner duct loose

Battery discharged:

Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing

Battery faulty (e.g., plates sulphated,

shorted through sedimentation, elec-

Handling and/or Stability

trolyte insufficient)

Unsatisfactory:

Battery cables making poor contact

Handlebar hard to turn:

Load excessive (e.g., bulb of excessive

Cable routing incorrect

wattage)

Hose routing incorrect

Ignition switch trouble

Wiring routing incorrect

Alternator trouble

Steering stem locknut too tight

Wiring faulty

Steering stem bearing damaged

Regulator/rectifier trouble

Steering stem bearing lubrication inade-

Battery overcharged:

quate

Regulator/rectifier trouble

Steering stem bent

Battery faulty

Tire air pressure too low

Kawasaki Ninja 250R Motorcycle. Service Manual (2008-2012 year) - page 4