Content      ..     1      2      3      4      ..

Kawasaki Ninja 250R Motorcycle. Service Manual (2008-2012 year) - page 3

WHEELS/TIRES 10-5

Special Tools

Inside Circlip Pliers:

Bearing Driver Set:

57001-143

57001-1129

Rim Protector:

Bearing Remover Shaft,

9:

57001-1063

57001-1265

Bead Breaker Assembly:

Bearing Remover Head,

15 ×

17:

57001-1072

57001-1267

10-6 WHEELS/TIRES

Wheels (Rims)

Front Wheel Removal

• Remove:

Speedometer Cable Lower End [A]

Axle Nut Cotter Pin [B]

Axle (Loosen) [C]

Front Caliper Mounting Bolts [D]

• Using a jack, raise the front wheel off the ground.

• Pull the axle and remove the front wheel.

NOTICE

Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc

facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.

Place blocks under the wheel so that the disc does

not touch the ground.

Front Wheel Installation

• Apply a high-temperature grease to the grease seal lips.

• Install the speedometer gear housing to the front wheel.

• Install the front wheel so that the speedometer gear hous-

ing stop [A] fit into the fork leg stops [B].

• Install the speedometer cable so that the drive notch [B]

of it fits into the projection [A] of the speedometer gear in

the housing.

• Tighten the front axle nut with the specified torque.

Torque - Front Axle Nut: 88 N·m (9.0 kgf·m, 65 ft·lb)

WHEELS/TIRES 10-7

Wheels (Rims)

• Check the front brake effectiveness (see Brake Operation

Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

WARNING

After servicing, it takes several applications of the

brake lever before the brake pads contact the disc,

which could result in increased stopping distance

and cause an accident resulting in injury or death.

Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm

brake lever is obtained by pumping the lever until

the pads are against the disc.

Rear Wheel Removal

• Remove:

Axle Nut Cotter Pin [A]

Axle Nut [B] and Washer [C]

Chain Locknuts (Loosen) [D] and Adjusting Nuts [E]

Axle [F]

Alignment Indicators [G]

• Remove:

Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts [A]

Rear Caliper [B]

• Raise the rear wheel off the ground with the stand.

• Free the drive chain from the rear sprocket, and remove

the rear wheel.

NOTICE

Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc

facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.

Place blocks under the wheel so that the disc does

not touch the ground.

Rear Wheel Installation

• Apply a high temperature grease to the grease seal lips

and coupling, wheel sliding portions.

10-8 WHEELS/TIRES

Wheels (Rims)

• Fit the swingarm stop [A] into the caliper holder stops [B].

• Install:

Alignment Indicators

Axle

Chain Adjusting Nuts and Locknuts

Axle Nut and Washer

Axle Nut Cotter Pin

Torque - Rear Axle Nut: 98 N·m (10.0 kgf·m, 72 ft·lb)

NOTE

○Insert the axle from the right side of the wheel, and

tighten the axle nut.

• Install a new cotter pin.

NOTE

○When inserting the cotter pin, if the slots in the nut do

not align with the cotter pin hole in the axle, tighten the

nut clockwise [B] up to next alignment.

○It should be within 30 degrees.

○Loosen once and tighten again when the slot goes past

the nearest hole.

• Bend the cotter pin [A] over the nut.

• Adjust the drive chain slack (see Drive Chain Slack Ad-

justment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

• Check the rear brake (see Brake Operation Inspection in

the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

WARNING

After servicing, it takes several applications of the

brake pedal before the brake pads contact the disc,

which could result in increased stopping distance

and cause an accident resulting in injury or death.

Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm

brake pedal is obtained by pumping the pedal until

the pads are against the disc.

WHEELS/TIRES 10-9

Wheels (Rims)

Wheel Inspection

• Raise the front/rear wheel off the ground.

• Spin the wheel lightly, and check for roughness or binding.

If the roughness or binding is found, replace the hub bear-

ings.

• Inspect the wheel for small cracks, dents, bending, or

warp.

If there is any damage to the wheel, replace the wheel.

• Measure the rim runout, radial [B] and axial [A], with a dial

gauge.

If the rim runout exceeds the service limit, check the hub

bearings.

If the problem is not due to the bearings, replace the

wheel.

Rim Runout (with tire installed)

Standard:

Axial

TIR 0.5 mm (0.02 in.) or less

Radial

TIR 0.8 mm (0.03 in.) or less

Service Limit:

Axial

TIR 1.0 mm (0.04 in.)

Radial

TIR 1.0 mm (0.04 in.)

WARNING

Damaged wheel parts may fail and cause an acci-

dent resulting in serious injury or death. Never at-

tempt to repair a damaged wheel part. If the wheel

part is damaged, it must be replaced with a new one.

Axle Inspection

• Remove the front and rear axles.

• Visually inspect the front and rear axle for damages.

If the axle is damaged or bent, replace it.

• Place the axle in V blocks that are 100 mm (3.94 in.) [A]

apart, and set a dial gauge [B] on the axle at a point

halfway between the blocks. Turn [C] the axle to mea-

sure the runout. The difference between the highest and

lowest dial readings is the amount of runout.

If the axle runout exceeds the service limit, replace the

axle.

Axle Runout/100 mm (3.94 in.)

Standard:

TIR 0.1 mm (0.004 in.) or less

Service Limit: TIR 0.2 mm (0.008 in.)

10-10 WHEELS/TIRES

Wheels (Rims)

Balance Inspection

• Remove the wheel.

• Support the wheel so that it can be spun freely.

• Spin the wheel lightly, and mark [A] the wheel at the top

when the wheel stops.

○Repeat this procedure several times. If the wheel stops

of its own accord in various positions, it is well balanced.

If the wheel always stops in one position, adjust the wheel

balance.

Balance Adjustment

• If the wheel always stops in one position, provisionally

attach a balance weight [A] on the rim at the marking using

adhesive tape.

• Rotate the wheel 1/4 turn [B], and see whether or not the

wheel stops in this position. If it does, the correct balance

weight is being used.

If the wheel rotates and the weight goes up, replace the

weight with the next heavier size. If the wheel rotates and

the weight goes down, replace the weight with the next

lighter size. Repeat these steps until the wheel remains

at rest after being rotated 1/4 turn.

• Rotate the wheel another 1/4 turn and then another 1/4

turn to see if the wheel is correctly balanced.

• Repeat the entire procedure as many times as necessary

to achieve correct wheel balance.

• Permanently install the balance weight.

Balance Weight Removal

• Insert a standard tip screwdrivers [A] [B] between the rib

[C] and weight [D] as shown.

• Pry the balance weight with two screwdrivers and remove

the balance weight.

• Discard the used balance weight.

NOTICE

Do not tap the screwdrivers. The rim could be dam-

aged.

Balance Weight Installation

• Check if the weight portion has any play on the blade [A]

and clip [B].

If it does, discard it.

WARNING

Unbalanced wheels can create an unsafe riding

condition. If the balance weight has any play on

the rib of the rim, the blade and/or clip have been

stretched. Replace the loose balance weight. Do

not reuse used balance weight.

WHEELS/TIRES 10-11

Wheels (Rims)

Balance Weight

Part Number

Weight

41075-0007

10 g (0.35 oz.)

41075-0008

20 g (0.71 oz.)

41075-0009

30 g (1.06 oz.)

NOTE

○Balance weights are available from Kawasaki dealers in

10, 20, and 30 gram (0.35 oz., 0.71 oz., and 1.06 oz.)

sizes. An imbalance of less than 10 grams (0.35 oz.)

will not usually affect running stability.

○Do not use four or more balance weight (more than 90

gram). If the wheel requires an excess balance weight,

disassemble the wheel to find the cause.

• Slip the balance weight [A] on to the rib [B], by pushing or

lightly hammering [C] the clip [D].

Left Side [E]

Right Side [F]

• Be sure to install the balance weight.

○Check that the blade [A] and clip [B] are fully seated on

the rim [C] and that the clip is hooked over the rib [D].

Left Side [E]

Right Side [F]

10-12 WHEELS/TIRES

Tires

Air Pressure Inspection/Adjustment

• Refer to Air Pressure Inspection in the Periodic Mainte-

nance chapter (see Air Pressure Inspection in the Peri-

odic Maintenance chapter).

Tire Inspection

• Refer to Wheels/Tires Damage Inspection in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter (see Wheels/Tires Damage Inspec-

tion in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Tire Removal

• Remove:

Wheel (see Wheel Removal)

Disc

Valve Core (let out the air)

• To maintain wheel balance, mark the air valve position on

the tire with chalk so that the tire can be reinstalled in the

same position.

Chalk Mark or Yellow Mark [A]

Air Valve [B]

Align [C]

• Lubricate the tire beads and rim flanges on both sides with

a soap and water solution or rubber lubricant. This helps

the tire beads slip off the rim flanges.

NOTICE

Never lubricate with engine oil or petroleum distil-

lates because they will deteriorate the tire.

• Break the beads away from both sides of the rim with the

bead breaker [A].

Special Tool - Bead Breaker Assembly: 57001-1072

• Step on the side of the tire opposite the valve stem and

start prying the tire off the rim near the air valve with tire

irons.

Special Tools - Rim Protector: 57001-1063 [A]

Bead Breaker Assembly: 57001-1072 [B]

WHEELS/TIRES 10-13

Tires

NOTE

○For easier removal, always position the tire bead oppo-

site the valve stem in the rim well, and pry the tire bead

a little at a time.

NOTICE

Be careful not to scratch the inner liner and air seal-

ing surfaces of the rim and tire with the tire irons. A

scratched inner liner [B] or sealing surface [A] may

allow air to leak.

• After removing the bead on one side, remove the other

bead from the same manner.

• Remove the tire from the rim.

Tire Installation

WARNING

Some replacement tires may adversely affect han-

dling and cause an accident resulting in serious in-

jury or death. To ensure proper handling and sta-

bility, use only the recommended standard tires for

replacement, inflated to the standard pressure.

• Inspect the rim and tire, and replace them if necessary.

• Clean the sealing surfaces of the rim and tire, and smooth

the sealing surfaces of the rim with a fine emery cloth if

necessary.

• Remove the air valve and discard it.

NOTICE

Replace the air valve whenever the tire is replaced.

Do not reuse the air valve.

• Install a new valve in the rim.

○Remove the valve cap, lubricate the stem seal [A] with a

soap and water solution or rubber lubricant, and pull [B]

the valve stem through the rim from the inside out until it

snaps into place.

NOTICE

Do not use engine oil or petroleum distillates to lu-

bricate the stem because they will deteriorate the

rubber.

○The air valve is shown in the figure.

[A] Valve Cap

[B] Valve Core

[C] Stem Seal

[D] Valve Stem

[E] Valve Seat

[F] Valve Opened

10-14 WHEELS/TIRES

Tires

• Apply a soap and water solution, or rubber lubricant to the

rim flange and tire beads.

• Check the tire rotation mark on the front and rear tires and

install them on the rim accordingly.

Tire Rotation Mark [A]

Rotating Direction [B]

• Position the tire on the rim so that the air valve [A] align

with the tire balance mark [B] (the chalk mark made during

removal, or the yellow paint mark on a new tire).

• By hand, slide as much as possible of the lower side of the

tire bead over the rim flange, starting at the side opposite

the valve stem.

• Fit the rim protectors and tire irons to install the remaining

part of the tire bead which cannot be installed by hand.

For easy tire installation, position the parts of the bead

which is already over the rim flange in the rim well.

NOTE

○To prevent rim damage, be sure to place the rim protec-

tors at any place the tire irons are applied.

• Install the other side of the tire bead onto the rim in the

same manner.

• Lubricate the tire beads and rim flanges with a soap and

water solution or rubber lubricant to help seat the tire

beads in the sealing surfaces of the rim while inflating the

tire.

• Center the rim in the tire beads, and inflate the tire with

compressed air until the tire beads seat in the sealing

surfaces.

WARNING

Overinflating a tire can cause it to explode, causing

serious injury or death. Be sure to install the valve

core whenever inflating the tire, and do not inflate

the tire to more than 400 kPa (4.0 kgf/cm², 57 psi).

WHEELS/TIRES 10-15

Tires

• Check to see that the rim lines [A] on both sides of the tire

sidewalls are parallel with the rim flanges.

If the rim flanges and tire sidewall rim lines are not parallel,

remove the valve core.

• Lubricate the rim flanges and tire beads.

• Install the valve core and inflate the tire again.

• After the tire beads seat in the rim flanges, check for air

leakage.

○Inflate the tire slightly above standard inflation.

○Use a soap and water solution or submerge the tire, and

check for bubbles that would indicate leakage.

• Adjust the air pressure to the specified pressure (see Air

Pressure Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chap-

ter).

• Install the brake disc(s) so that the marked side faces out

(see Brake Disc Installation in the Brakes chapter).

• Adjust the wheel balance (see Balance Adjustment).

Tire Repair

Currently two types of repair for tubeless tires have come

into wide use. One type is called a temporary (external) re-

pair which can be carried out without removing the tire from

the rim, and the other type is called permanent (internal)

repair which requires tire removal. It is generally under-

stood that higher running durability is obtained by perma-

nent (internal) repairs than by temporary (external) ones.

Also, permanent (internal) repairs have the advantage of

permitting a thorough examination for secondary damage

not visible from external inspection of the tire. For these

reasons, Kawasaki does not recommend temporary (exter-

nal) repair. Only appropriate permanent (internal) repairs

are recommended. Repair methods may vary slightly from

make to make. Follow the repair methods indicated by the

manufacturer of the repair tools and materials so that safe

results can be obtained.

10-16 WHEELS/TIRES

Hub Bearing

Hub Bearing Removal

• Remove the wheel, and take out the following.

Collars

Speedometer Gear Drive (out of front hub)

Coupling (out of rear hub)

Grease Seals

Circlips [A]

Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143 [B]

• Use the bearing remover to remove the hub bearings [A].

NOTICE

Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc

facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.

Place blocks under the wheel so that the disc does

not touch the ground.

Special Tools - Bearing Remover Shaft,

9: 57001-1265 [B]

Bearing Remover Head,

15 ×

17: 57001

-1267 [C]

Hub Bearing Installation

• Before installing the hub bearings, blow any dirt or foreign

particles out of the hub with compressed air to prevent

contamination of the bearings.

• Replace the bearings with new ones.

NOTE

○Install the bearings so that the marked side faces out.

• Install the bearings by using the bearing driver set which

does not contact the bearing inner race.

• Press in each bearing [A] until they are bottomed.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129 [B]

• Replace the circlips with new ones.

Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143

• Replace the grease seals with new ones.

• Press in the grease seals [A] so that the seal surface is

flush [B] with the end of the hole.

○Apply high-temperature grease to the grease seal lips.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129 [C]

WHEELS/TIRES 10-17

Hub Bearing

Hub Bearing Inspection

Since the hub bearings are made to extremely close tol-

erances, the clearance can not normally be measured.

NOTE

○Do not remove any bearings for inspection. If any bear-

ings are removed, they will need to be replaced with

new ones.

• Turn each bearing in the hub back and forth [A] while

checking for plays, roughness, or binding.

If bearing play, roughness, or binding is found, replace

the bearing.

• Examine the bearing seal [B] for tears or leakage.

If the seal is torn or is leaking, replace the bearing.

Hub Bearing Lubrication

NOTE

○Since the hub bearings are packed with grease and

sealed, lubrication is not required.

10-18 WHEELS/TIRES

Speedometer Gear Housing

Speedometer Gear Housing Disassembly

• Pull the speedometer gear housing [A] off the front wheel.

• Pull out the grease seal [C] using a hook.

• Pull out the speedometer gear [B].

• If the speedometer cable housing [F] or speedometer pin-

ion [E] needs to be removed, work in accordance with fol-

lowing procedures.

Pin [D]

• First drill the housing [A] through the spring pin [B] using

a 1.0 ∼ 1.5 mm drill bit [C].

• Drill the housing from the under side to the pin end [B]

using 3.0 ∼ 3.5 mm drill bit [A].

• Using a 3 mm (0.12 in.) rod [A], tap out the pin [B], and

then pull out the speedometer cable bushing, speedome-

ter pinion and washers.

NOTE

○It is recommended that the assembly be replaced rather

than attempting to repair the components.

Speedometer Gear Housing Assembly

• When assembling the speedometer gear housing, be

careful of the following items.

○After inserting a new pin, stake the housing hole to secure

the pin in place.

○Replace the grease seal with a new one. Apply a little

grease to the seal. Install it using a press or a suitable

driver so that the face of the seal is level with the surface

of the housing.

○Regrease the speedometer gear.

○Install the speedometer gear housing so that it fits in the

speedometer gear drive notches.

WHEELS/TIRES 10-19

Speedometer Gear Housing

Speedometer Gear Housing Lubrication

• Clean and grease [A] the speedometer gear housing [B].

11-2 FINAL DRIVE

Exploded View

FINAL DRIVE 11-3

Exploded View

Torque

No.

Fastener

Remarks

N·m

kgf·m

ft·lb

1

Engine Sprocket Cover Bolts

9.8

1.0

87 in·lb

2

Engine Sprocket Nut

127

13

94

MO

3

Rear Sprocket Nuts

59

6.0

44

R

4

Rear Sprocket Studs

-

-

-

L

5. Chain Adjusting Nuts and Locknuts

G: Apply grease.

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

MO: Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution. (mixture of engine oil and molybdenum disulfide grease

in a weight ratio 10 : 1).

R: Replacement Parts

FINAL DRIVE 11-5

Special Tool

Bearing Driver Set:

57001-1129

11-6 FINAL DRIVE

Drive Chain

Drive Chain Slack Inspection

• Refer to Drive Chain Slack Inspection in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter (see Drive Chain Slack Inspection

in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Drive Chain Slack Adjustment

• Refer to Drive Chain Slack Inspection in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter (see Drive Chain Slack Inspection

in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Wheel Alignment Inspection/Adjustment

• Refer to Wheel Alignment Inspection in the Periodic Main-

tenance chapter (see Wheel Alignment Inspection in the

Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Drive Chain Wear Inspection

• Refer to Drive Chain Wear Inspection in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter (see Drive Chain Wear Inspection

in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Drive Chain Lubrication

• Refer to Drive Chain Lubrication Condition in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter (see Drive Chain Lubrication Con-

dition in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Drive Chain Removal

• Remove:

Engine Sprocket Cover

Drive Chain Cover

Rear Shock Absorber (see Rear Shock Absorber Re-

moval in the Suspension chapter)

Swingarm Pivot Shaft (see Swingarm Removal in the

Suspension chapter)

• Flatten out the bended washer [A].

• Remove the engine sprocket nut [B] and washer.

NOTE

○When loosening the engine sprocket nut, hold the rear

brake on.

FINAL DRIVE 11-7

Drive Chain

• Raise the rear wheel off the ground.

• Remove the axle cotter pin, and loosen the rear axle nut.

• Loosen the both chain adjuster locknut to loosen the drive

chain.

• Remove the drive chain from the rear sprocket toward the

right.

• Pull the engine sprocket [A] with drive chain [B] off the

output shaft [C].

• Disengage the drive chain from the engine sprocket.

NOTE

○The swingarm may be moved with the rear wheel left

installed on it.

Drive Chain Installation

• Replace the sprocket washer and axle cotter pin.

• Install the engine sprocket onto the shaft the protruding

side [A] of it faces in.

• Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to the threads of

the output shaft and the seating surface of the engine

sprocket nut.

• After torquing the engine sprocket nut, bend the one side

of the washer over the nut.

NOTE

○Tighten the nut while applying the rear brake.

Torque - Engine Sprocket Nut: 127 N·m (13 kgf·m, 94 ft·lb)

• Adjust the drive chain slack after installing the sprocket

(see Drive Chain Slack Adjustment in the Periodic Main-

tenance chapter).

• Replace the rear shook absorber mounting nuts with new

one.

• Install:

Swingarm (see Swingarm Installation in the Suspension

chapter)

Rear Shock Absorber (see Rear Shock Absorber Instal-

lation in the Suspension chapter)

Drive Chain Cover

Engine Sprocket Cover

Torque - Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Nuts: 59 N·m (6.0

kgf·m, 44 ft·lb)

Swingarm Pivot Nut: 98 N·m (10 kgf·m, 72 ft·lb)

• Adjust the drive chain slack after installing the chain (see

Drive Chain Slack Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance

chapter).

11-8 FINAL DRIVE

Drive Chain

Drive Chain Replacement

NOTICE

For safety, if the drive chain shall be replaced, re-

place it using a recommended tool.

Recommended Tool

Type:

EX250J8 ∼ JA

EK Joint Tool #50

EX250JB ∼ JC

DID Chain Joint “ZJ”

Brand:

EX250J8 ∼ JA

ENUMA

EX250JB ∼ JC

DAIDO

Body [A]

Handlebar [B]

Cutting and Riveting Pin [C]

For Cutting [D]

For Riveting [E]

Plate Holder (A) [F]

Plate Holder (B) [G]

Gauge [H]

• Remove:

Chain Cover (see Drive Chain Removal)

Engine Sprocket Cover (see Engine Sprocket Removal)

• Grind [A] the pin head to make it flat.

• Set the cutting and rivetting pin [B] as shown.

• Screw the pin holder until it touches the link pin.

• Be sure that the cutting pin hits center of the link pin.

FINAL DRIVE 11-9

Drive Chain

• Screw the handlebar [A] into the body.

• Turn the pin holder with the wrench [B] clockwise to ex-

tract the link pin.

• Replace the link pin, link plate and grease seals.

• Apply grease to the link pins [A] and grease the seals [B]

[C].

• Engage the drive chain on the engine and rear sprockets.

• Insert the link pins in the drive chain ends.

• Install the grease seals [C].

• Install the link plate [D] so that the mark faces out.

• Push the link plate by hand or plier to fix it.

• Be sure to set the grease seals correctly.

• Set the plate holder (A) [A] and plate holder (B) [B] on the

body.

• Fit the plate holder (A) to the link plate.

• Turn the pin holder by hand until the plate holder (B)

touches the other link plate.

• Turn the pin holder by a wrench clockwise until two pins

of link come into groove of the plate holder (A).

• Take off the plate holder.

11-10 FINAL DRIVE

Drive Chain

• Set the plate holder (B) [A] and the cutting and rivetting

pin [B] as shown.

• Turn the pin holder until the rivetting pin touches the link

pin.

• Turn the wrench clockwise until the tip of rivetting pin con-

tact with the link pin.

• Rivet it.

• Repeat the same procedure for the other link pin.

• After staking, check the staked area of the link pin for

cracks.

• Measure the outside diameter [A] of the link pin and link

plates width [B].

Link Pin Outside Diameter

Standard:

EX250J8 ∼ JA

5.3 ∼ 5.7 mm (0.21 ∼ 0.22 in.)

EX250JB ∼ JC

5.7 ∼ 6.0 mm (0.23 ∼ 0.24 in.)

Link Plates Outside Width

Standard:

EX250J8 ∼ JA

17.35 ∼ 17.50 mm (0.683 ∼ 0.689 in.)

EX250JB ∼ JC

17.25 ∼ 17.55 mm (0.679 ∼ 0.691 in.)

If the reading exceeds the specified length, cut and rejoin

the chain again.

• Check:

Movement of the Rollers

• Adjust the drive chain slack after installing the chain (see

Drive Chain Slack Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance

chapter).

FINAL DRIVE 11-11

Sprocket, Coupling

Engine Sprocket Removal

• Remove:

Shift Lever Link Bolt [A]

Shift Shaft [B]

Engine Sprocket Cover Bolts [C]

• Remove the engine sprocket cover [D].

• Flatten out the bended washer [A].

• Remove the engine sprocket nut [B] and washer.

NOTE

○When loosening the engine sprocket nut, hold the rear

brake on.

• Raise the rear wheel off the ground.

• Remove the axle cotter pin, and loosen the rear axle nut.

• Loosen the both chain adjuster locknut to loosen the drive

chain.

• Remove the drive chain from the rear sprocket toward the

right.

• Pull the engine sprocket [A] with drive chain [B] off the

output shaft [C].

• Disengage the drive chain from the engine sprocket.

Engine Sprocket Installation

• Replace the sprocket washer and axle cotter pin.

• Install the engine sprocket onto the shaft the protruding

side [A] of it faces in.

• Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to the threads of

the output shaft and the seating surface of the engine

sprocket nut.

• After torquing the engine sprocket nut, bend the one side

of the washer over the nut.

NOTE

○Tighten the nut while applying the rear brake.

Torque - Engine Sprocket Nut: 127 N·m (13 kgf·m, 94 ft·lb)

• Adjust the drive chain slack after installing the sprocket

(see Drive Chain Slack Adjustment in the Periodic Main-

tenance chapter).

• Install the new axle cotter pin, and bend the end of it

surely.

• Install the engine sprocket cover.

• Install the shift lever onto the shift shaft aligning the mark

which is marked before removing.

11-12 FINAL DRIVE

Sprocket, Coupling

Rear Sprocket Removal

• Remove the rear wheel (see Rear Wheel Removal in the

Wheels/Tires chapter).

NOTICE

Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc

facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.

Place blocks under the wheel so that the disc does

not touch the ground.

• Pull out the coupling collar from the left, and coupling

sleeve from the right.

• Remove the rear sprocket nuts [A].

• Remove the rear sprocket [B].

Rear Sprocket Installation

• Install the sprocket with the tooth number marking [A] out-

ward.

• Replace the rear sprocket nuts with the new ones.

• Install the rear sprocket nuts.

Torque - Rear Sprocket Nuts: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 44 ft·lb)

• Install the rear wheel (see Rear Wheel Installation in the

Wheels/Tires chapter).

Coupling Installation

• Grease the following and install the coupling.

Coupling Grease Seal [A]

Coupling Internal Surface [A]

Ball Bearing [A]

Coupling Bearing Removal

• Remove:

Coupling

Grease Seal

Bearing [A]

FINAL DRIVE 11-13

Sprocket, Coupling

• Remove the bearing [A] by tapping from the wheel side.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129 [B]

Coupling Bearing Installation

• Replace the bearing with a new one.

• Press in the bearing [A] until it is bottomed.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129 [B]

• Pack the bearing with high-temperature grease.

• Replace the grease seal with a new one.

• Press in the grease seal so that the seal surface is flush

with the end of the hole.

○Apply high-temperature grease to the grease seal lips.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129

Coupling Bearing Inspection

Since the coupling bearing is made to extremely close

tolerances, the clearance can not normally be measured.

NOTE

○It is not necessary to remove the coupling bearing for

inspection. If the bearing is removed, it will need to be

replaced with a new one.

• Turn the bearing in the coupling back and forth [A] while

checking for plays, roughness, or binding.

If the bearing play, roughness, or binding is found, replace

the bearing.

Coupling Bearing Lubrication

• Pack the bearing with high-temperature grease. Turn the

bearing around by hand a few times to make sure the

grease is distributed uniformly inside the bearing.

11-14 FINAL DRIVE

Sprocket, Coupling

Coupling Damper Inspection

• Remove the rear wheel coupling, and inspect the rubber

dampers [A].

• Replace the damper if it appears damaged or deterio-

rated.

Grease Seal Inspection and Lubrication

If the grease seals are examined without removing the

seals themselves, look for discoloration (indicating the rub-

ber has deteriorated), hardening, damage to the internal

ribbing, or other damage. If the seal or internal ribbing

has hardened, the clearance between the seal and the axle

sleeve will not be take up, which will allow dirt and moisture

to enter and reach the bearing. If in doubt as to its condition

and whenever the seal is removed for greasing the bearing,

the seal should be replace. The seals are generally dam-

aged upon removal.

Sprocket Wear Inspection

• Visually inspect the engine and rear sprocket teeth for

wear and damage.

If the teeth are worn as illustrated, replace the sprocket,

and inspect the drive chain wear (see Drive Chain Wear

Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

[A] Worn Tooth (Engine Sprocket)

[B] Worn Tooth (Rear Sprocket)

[C] Direction of Rotation

NOTE

○If a sprocket requires replacement, the chain is proba-

bly worn also. When replacing a sprocket, inspect the

chain.

Rear Sprocket Warp Inspection

• Raise the rear wheel off the ground with the stand so that

it will turn freely.

• Set a dial gauge [A] against the rear sprocket [B] near the

teeth as shown, and rotate [C] the rear wheel to measure

the sprocket runout (warp). The difference between the

highest and lowest dial gauge readings is the amount of

runout (warp).

If the runout exceeds the service limit, replace the rear

sprocket.

Rear Sprocket Warp

Standard:

TIR 0.4 mm (0.016 in.) or less

Service Limit: TIR 0.5 mm (0.02 in.)

12-2 BRAKES

Exploded View

BRAKES 12-3

Exploded View

Torque

No.

Fastener

Remarks

N·m

kgf·m

ft·lb

1

Brake Lever Pivot Bolt Locknut

5.9

0.6

52 in·lb

2

Bleed Valve

5.5

0.55

49 in·lb

3

Front Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts

8.8

0.9

78 in·lb

S

4

Brake Disc Mounting Bolts

27

2.8

20

L

5

Brake Hose Banjo Bolts

25

2.5

18

6

Front Caliper Mounting Bolts

25

2.5

18

7

Front Brake Light Switch Screw

1.0

0.1

9 in·lb

8

Brake Lever Pivot Bolt

1.0

0.1

9 in·lb

9

Front Reservoir Cap Screws

1.5

0.15

13 in·lb

B: Apply brake fluid.

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

R: Replacement parts

S: Follow the specific tightening sequence.

Si: Apply silicone grease.

12-4 BRAKES

Exploded View

BRAKES 12-5

Exploded View

Torque

No.

Fastener

Remarks

N·m

kgf·m

ft·lb

1

Reservoir Mounting Bolt

6.9

0.7

61 in·lb

2

Bleed Valve

5.5

0.55

49 in·lb

3

Brake Pedal Pivot Bolt

8.8

0.9

78 in·lb

L

4

Push Rod Locknut

18

1.8

13

5

Brake Disc Mounting Bolts

27

2.8

20

L

6

Brake Hose Banjo Bolts

25

2.5

18

7

Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts

25

2.5

18

8

Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts

25

2.5

18

B: Apply brake fluid.

G: Apply grease.

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

R: Replacement parts

Si: Apply silicone grease.

12-8 BRAKES

Brake Lever, Brake Pedal

Brake Pedal Position Inspection

• Check that the brake pedal [A] is in the correct position.

[B] Footpeg

Pedal Position

Standard: About 40 mm (1.6 in.) [C] below top of

footpeg

If it is incorrect, adjust the brake pedal position.

Brake Pedal Position Adjustment

NOTE

○Usually it is not necessary to adjust the pedal position,

but always adjust it when push rod locknut has been

loosened.

• Loosen the locknut [A] and up or down the clevis [B] by

turning the adjuster [C] to adjust the brake pedal position.

• Tighten the locknut with specified torque.

Torque - Push Rod Locknut: 18 N·m (1.8 kgf·m, 13 ft·lb)

NOTE

○If the pedal position cannot be adjusted by turning the

clevis [A], the brake pedal may be deformed or incor-

rectly installed.

○If the brake rod [B] protrusion is 3.5 ∼ 5.5 mm (0.14 ∼

0.22 in.) [C] below the nut, the pedal position will be

with in the standard range (about 40 mm (1.6 in.)).

• Check the brake pedal position, and readjust it if neces-

sary.

BRAKES 12-9

Calipers

Front Caliper Removal

• Loosen the banjo bolt [A] at the brake hose lower end,

and tighten it loosely.

• Unscrew the caliper mounting bolts [B], and detach the

caliper [C] from the disc.

NOTICE

Do not loosen the caliper assembly bolts. Take out

only the caliper mounting bolts for caliper removal.

Loosening the caliper assembly bolts will cause

brake fluid leakage.

• Unscrew the banjo bolt and remove the brake hose from

the caliper (see Brake Hose Removal/Installation).

NOTICE

Immediately wash away any brake fluid that spills.

NOTE

○If the caliper is to be disassembled after removal and if

compressed air is not available, disassemble the caliper

before the brake hose is removed (see Caliper Rubber

Parts Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance chap-

ter).

Rear Caliper Removal

• Loosen the banjo bolt [A] at the brake hose lower end,

and tighten it loosely.

• Unscrew the caliper mounting bolts [B], and detach the

caliper [C] from the disc.

• Unscrew the banjo bolt and remove the brake hose [D]

from the caliper (see Brake Hose Removal/Installation).

NOTICE

Immediately wash away any brake fluid that spills.

NOTE

○If the caliper is to be disassembled after removal and if

compressed air is not available, disassemble the caliper

before the brake hose is removed (see Caliper Rubber

Parts Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance chap-

ter).

Caliper Installation

• Install the caliper and brake hose lower end.

○Replace the washers on each side of hose fitting with new

ones.

• Tighten:

Torque - Front Caliper Mounting Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m,

18 ft·lb)

Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m,

18 ft·lb)

Brake Hose Banjo Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18

ft·lb)

12-10 BRAKES

Calipers

• Check the fluid level in the brake reservoirs.

• Bleed the brake line (see Brake Line Bleeding).

• Check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag,

and no fluid leakage.

WARNING

After servicing, it takes several applications of the

brake lever or pedal before the brake pads contact

the disc, which could result in increased stopping

distance and cause an accident resulting in injury

or death. Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until

a firm brake lever or pedal is obtained by pumping

the lever or pedal until the pads are against the disc.

Caliper Disassembly

• Refer to Caliper Rubber Parts Replacement in the Peri-

odic Maintenance chapter (see Caliper Rubber Parts Re-

placement in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Caliper Assembly

• Refer to Caliper Rubber Parts Replacement in the Peri-

odic Maintenance chapter (see Caliper Rubber Parts Re-

placement in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Caliper Fluid Seal Damage

The fluid seal (piston seal) [A] is placed around the pis-

ton to maintain clearance between the pad and the disc. If

the seal is in a poor condition, it could lead the pad to wear

excessively or the brake to drag, which may cause the tem-

perature of the discs or the brake fluid to increase.

• Replace the fluid seal if it exhibits any of the conditions

listed below.

○Brake fluid leakage around the pad.

○Brakes overheat.

○Considerable difference in inner and outer pad wear.

○Seal and piston are stuck together.

If the fluid seal is replaced, replace the dust seal [B] as

well. Also, replace all seals every other time the pads are

changed.

BRAKES 12-11

Calipers

Rear Caliper Dust Boot and Friction Boot Damage

• Check that the dust boot [A] and friction boot [B] are not

cracked, worn, swollen, or otherwise damaged.

If they show any damage, replace it.

Caliper Piston and Cylinder Damage Inspection

• Visually inspect the piston [A] and cylinder surfaces.

Replace the caliper if the cylinder and piston are badly

scores or rusty.

Fluid Seal [B]

Dust Seal [C]

Front Caliper [D]

Rear Caliper [E]

Dust Boot [F]

Caliper Holder Shaft Wear

The caliper body must slide smoothly on the caliper holder

shafts [G]. If the body does not slide smoothly, one pad

will wear more than the other, pad wear will increase, and

constant drag on the disc will raise brake and brake fluid

temperature.

• Check to see that the caliper holder shafts are not badly

worn or stepped, and that the rubber boots [H] are not

damaged.

If the rubber boot is damaged, replace the rubber boot. To

replace the rubber boot, remove the pads and the caliper

bracket.

If the caliper holder shaft is damage, replace the caliper

bracket.

12-12 BRAKES

Brake Pads

Brake Pad Removal

○The procedure to remove the front brake pad is as follows.

Removing the rear brake pad is the same as for the front

brake pad.

• Loosen the holder shaft [A].

• Remove the caliper (see Front/Rear Caliper Removal).

• Draw out the holder shaft.

• Remove the pads [B].

Brake Pad Installation

• Push the caliper pistons by hand as far as they will go.

• Install the pad on the piston side first, then install the other

pad.

• Install the anti-rattle spring [A] in its correct position.

WARNING

After servicing, it takes several applications of the

brake lever or pedal before the brake pads contact

the disc, which could result in increased stopping

distance and cause an accident resulting in injury

or death. Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until

a firm brake lever or pedal is obtained by pumping

the lever or pedal until the pads are against the disc.

Brake Pad Wear Inspection

• Refer to Brake Pad Wear Inspection in the Periodic Main-

tenance chapter (see Brake Pad Wear Inspection in the

Periodic Maintenance chapter).

BRAKES 12-13

Master Cylinder

Front Master Cylinder Removal

• Slide the dust cover [A], and remove the banjo bolt [B] to

disconnect the upper brake hose from the master cylinder

[C]. There are flat washers on each side of the hose fitting.

• Remove the front master cylinder clamp bolts [D], and

take off the master cylinder.

NOTICE

Immediately wash away any brake fluid that spills.

Front Master Cylinder Installation

• Install the front master cylinder so that the punch mark [A]

of the handlebar is aligned with the mating surface [B] of

the master cylinder clamp to level the reservoir.

• Install the master cylinder clamp [A] pointing with the ar-

row mark [B] upward.

• Tighten the upper clamp bolt [C] first, and then the lower

clamp bolt [D] with a specified torque. There will be a gap

[E] at the lower part of the clamp after tightening.

• Tighten the banjo bolt with a specified torque after in-

stalling a new flat washer on each side of the brake hose

fitting.

Torque - Front Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts: 8.8 N·m (0.9

kgf·m, 78 in·lb)

Brake Hose Banjo Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18

ft·lb)

• Bleed the brake line (see Brakes Line Bleeding).

• Check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag

and no brake fluid leakage.

WARNING

After servicing, it takes several applications of the

brake lever before the brake pads contact the disc,

which could result in increased stopping distance

and cause an accident resulting in injury or death.

Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm

brake lever is obtained by pumping the lever until

the pads are against the disc.

12-14 BRAKES

Master Cylinder

Rear Master Cylinder Removal

• Remove the cotter pin [A] and then pull the joint pin [B]

out of the push rod clevis [C] and brake pedal.

NOTE

○Pull off the joint pin while pressing down the brake

pedal.

• Slide the brake hose clamp [A] out of place (see Brake

Hose and Pipe Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance

chapter).

• Disconnect the brake hoses [B] from the brake hose con-

nector of the master cylinder [C], and temporarily secure

the end of the brake hose so some high place to keep fluid

loss to a minimum and immediately wipe up any brake

fluid that spills.

• Remove the master cylinder mounting bolts [D] and take

the master cylinder off the footpeg bracket.

• Remove the banjo bolt [E] to disconnect the brake hose

from the master cylinder and temporarily secure the end

of the brake hose to some high place to keep fluid loss to

a minimum. There are flat washers on each side of the

hose fitting.

NOTICE

Immediately wash away any brake fluid that spills.

Rear Master Cylinder Installation

• Tighten the banjo bolt with a specified torque after in-

stalling a new flat washer on each side of the brake hose

fitting. Be sure that the metal pipe is properly fitted into

the U-shaped notch in the master cylinder.

Torque - Brake Hose Banjo Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18

ft·lb)

• Tighten the rear master cylinder mounting bolts with a

specified torque.

Torque - Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5

kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)

• Connect the brake hose to the master cylinder and re-

place the brake hose clamp in place.

BRAKES 12-15

Master Cylinder

• Connect the push rod clevis to the brake pedal with the

joint pin.

• Install the cotter pin and bend the end of it securely.

• Bleed the brake line (see Brake Line Bleeding).

• Check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag

and no brake fluid leakage.

WARNING

After servicing, it takes several applications of the

brake pedal before the brake pads contact the disc,

which could result in increased stopping distance

and cause an accident resulting in injury or death.

Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm

brake pedal is obtained by pumping the pedal until

the pads are against the disc.

• Check the brake pedal position (see Brake Pedal Position

Inspection).

• Check the rear brake light switch (see Rear Brake Light

Switch Operation Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance

chapter).

Rear Brake Reservoir Removal

• Remove:

Reservoir mounting Bolt [A]

Brake Hose Clamp (Slide) [B]

Reservoir [C]

NOTICE

Immediately wash away any brake fluid that spills.

Rear Brake Reservoir Installation

• Install the clamp for the brake hose end.

• Fill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid and bleed the brake

line (see Brake Line Bleeding).

• Follow the procedure below to install the rear brake fluid

reservoir cap correctly.

○First, tighten the rear brake fluid reservoir cap [B] clock-

wise [C] by hand until the resistance is felt fully; then,

tighten the cap an additional 1/6 turn [D] while holding the

brake fluid reservoir [A] body.

Front Master Cylinder Disassembly

• Refer to Master Cylinder Rubber Parts Replacement in

the Periodic Maintenance chapter (see Master Cylinder

Rubber Parts Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance

chapter).

Rear Master Cylinder Disassembly

• Refer to Master Cylinder Rubber Parts Replacement in

the Periodic Maintenance chapter (see Master Cylinder

Rubber Parts Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance

chapter).

12-16 BRAKES

Master Cylinder

Master Cylinder Assembly

• Refer to Master Cylinder Rubber Parts Replacement in

the Periodic Maintenance chapter (see Master Cylinder

Rubber Parts Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance

chapter).

Master Cylinder Inspection

• Remove the master cylinders (see Front/Rear Master

Cylinder Removal).

• Disassemble the front and rear master cylinders.

• Check that there are no scratches, rust or pitting on the

inner wall [A] of each master cylinder and on the outside

of each piston [B].

If a master cylinder or piston shows any damage, replace

them.

• Inspect the primary cup [C] and secondary cup [D].

If a cup is worn, damaged softened (rotted), or swollen,

the piston assembly should be replaced to renew the

cups.

If fluid leakage is noted at the brake lever, the piston as-

sembly should be replaced to renew the cups.

Front Master Cylinder [J]

• Check the dust covers [E] for damage.

If they are damaged, replace them.

• Check the piston return springs [F] for any damage.

If the springs are damaged, replace them.

• Check that relief port [G] and supply port [H] are not

plugged.

If the relief port becomes plugged, the brake pads will

drag on the disc. Blow the ports clean with compressed

air.

Rear Master Cylinder [K]

BRAKES 12-17

Brake Disc

Brake Disc Removal

• Remove the wheel (see Front/Rear Wheel Removal in the

Wheels/Tires chapter).

• Unscrew the mounting bolts, and take off the disc.

Brake Disc Installation

• Install the brake disc on the wheel so that the marked side

[B] faces out.

• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of

the brake disc mounting bolts [A].

• Tighten:

Torque - Brake Disc Mounting Bolts: 27 N·m (2.8 kgf·m, 20

ft·lb)

Brake Disc Wear Inspection

• Measure the thickness of each disc [A] at the point where

it has worn the most.

If the disc has worn past the service limit, replace it.

Measuring Area [B]

Disc Thickness

Standard:

Front

4.3 ∼ 4.7 mm (0.17 ∼ 0.19 in.)

Rear

4.8 ∼ 5.2 mm (0.19 ∼ 0.20 in.)

Service Limit:

Front

4.0 mm (0.16 in.)

Rear

4.5 mm (0.18 in.)

Brake Disc Warp Inspection

• Jack up the motorcycle so that the wheel is off the ground

(see Front/Rear Removal in the Wheels/Tires chapter).

○For front disc inspection, turn the handlebar fully to one

side.

• Set up a dial gauge against the disc [A] as shown and

measure the disc runout, while turning [B] the wheel by

hand.

If the runout exceeds the service limit, replace the disc.

Disc Runout

Service Limit:

0.3 mm (0.01 in.) TIR

12-18 BRAKES

Brake Fluid

Brake Fluid Level Inspection

• Refer to Brake Fluid Level Inspection in the Periodic Main-

tenance chapter (see Brake Fluid Level Inspection in the

Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Brake Fluid Change

• Refer to Brake Fluid Change in the Periodic Maintenance

chapter (see Brake Fluid Change in the Periodic Mainte-

nance chapter).

Brake Line Bleeding

The brake fluid has a very low compression coefficient so

that almost all the movement of the brake lever or pedal

is transmitted directly to the caliper for braking action. Air,

however, is easily compressed. When air enters the brake

lines, brake lever or pedal movement will be partially used

in compressing the air. This will make the lever or pedal feel

spongy, and there will be a loss in braking power.

WARNING

Air in the brake lines diminish braking performance

and can cause an accident resulting in injury or

death. If the brake lever or pedal has a soft or

"spongy" feeling mushy when it is applied, there

might be air in the brake lines or the brake may be

defective. Do not operate the vehicle and service

the brake system immediately.

NOTE

○The procedure to bleed the front brake line is as follows.

Bleeding the rear brake line is the same as for the front

brake.

• Remove the reservoir cap [A] and diaphragm.

• Fill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid to the upper level

line in the reservoir.

• Slowly pump the brake lever several times until no air

bubbles can be seen rising up through the fluid from the

holes at the bottom of the reservoir.

○Bleed the air completely from the master cylinder by this

operation.

• Remove the rubber cap from the bleed valve [A] on the

caliper.

• Attach a clear plastic hose [B] to the bleed valve, and run

the other end of the hose into a container.

BRAKES 12-19

Brake Fluid

• Bleed the brake line and the caliper.

○Repeat this operation until no more air can be seen com-

ing out into the plastic hose.

1. Pump the brake lever until it becomes hard, and apply

the brake and hold it [A].

2. Quickly open and close [B] the bleed valve while hold-

ing the brake applied.

3. Release the brake [C].

NOTE

○The fluid level must be checked often during the bleed-

ing operation and replenished with fresh brake fluid as

necessary. If the fluid in the reservoir runs completely

out any time during bleeding, the bleeding operation

must be done over again from the beginning since air

will have entered the line.

○Tap the brake hose lightly from the caliper to the reser-

voir for more complete bleeding.

• Remove the clear plastic hose.

• Install the diaphragm and reservoir cap.

• Tighten:

Torque - Front Brake Reservoir Cap Screws: 1.5 N·m (0.15

kgf·m, 13 in·lb)

• Follow the procedure below to install the rear brake fluid

reservoir cap correctly.

○First, tighten the rear brake fluid reservoir cap [B] clock-

wise [C] by hand until slight resistance is felt indicating

that the cap is seated on the reservoir body, then tighten

the cap an additional 1/6 turn [D] while holding the brake

fluid reservoir body [A].

• Tighten the bleed valve, and install the rubber cap.

Torque - Bleed Valve: 5.5 N·m (0.55 kgf·m, 49 in·lb)

• Check the fluid level (see Brake Fluid Level Inspection in

the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

• After bleeding is done, check the brake for good braking

power, no brake drag, and no fluid leakage.

13-2 SUSPENSION

Exploded View

SUSPENSION 13-3

Exploded View

Torque

No.

Fastener

Remarks

N·m

kgf·m

ft·lb

1

Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper)

21

2.1

15

2

Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower)

30

3.1

22

3

Front Fork Bottom Allen Bolts

20

2.0

15

L

4

Rocker Arm Pivot Nut

59

6.0

44

R

5

Tie-Rod Nuts

59

6.0

44

R

6

Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Nuts

59

6.0

44

R

7

Swingarm Pivot Nut

98

10.0

72

8. EX250J8 Model

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

M: Apply molybdenum disulfide grease.

R: Replacement Parts

SUSPENSION 13-5

Special Tools

Inside Circlip Pliers:

Bearing Driver Set:

57001-143

57001-1129

Fork Cylinder Holder Handle:

Fork Outer Tube Weight:

57001-183

57001-1218

Fork Cylinder Holder Adapter:

Front Fork Oil Seal Driver:

57001-1057

57001-1219

Oil Seal & Bearing Remover:

Jack:

57001-1058

57001-1238

Steering Stem Nut Wrench:

Fork Oil Level Gauge:

57001-1100

57001-1290

SUSPENSION 13-7

Front Fork

Front Fork Removal

NOTE

○Remove the handlebar holder and remove the fork top

plug [A] beforehand if the fork leg is to be disassembled.

• To remove the top plug, remove the snap ring [B] pushing

down the top plug with the phillips tip screwdriver.

• Remove:

Front Brake Caliper (see Front Caliper Removal in the

Brakes chapter)

Front Wheel (see Front Wheel Removal in the

Wheels/Tires chapter)

Front Fender (see Front Fender Removal in the Frame

chapter)

Lower Fairings (see Lower Fairing Removal in the Frame

chapter)

• Remove the clamps and free the brake hose from the fork

leg.

• Loosen the front fork upper [A] and lower [B] clamp bolts.

• With a twisting motion, remove the fork leg down and out.

Front Fork Installation (each fork leg)

• Insert the fork leg until the inner tube top hit the handlebar

holder lightly, that is, the distance between the inner tube

top [A] and the steering stem head surface [B] is approx-

imate 12 mm (0.47 in.) [C].

Torque - Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper):

21 N·m (2.1

kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)

Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower):

30 N·m (3.1

kgf·m, 22 ft·lb)

• Route the brake hoses and clamp it to the right fork leg.

• Install:

Handlebar Holder

Front Brake Caliper (see Caliper Installation in the

Brakes chapter)

Front Wheel (see Front Wheel Installation in the

Wheels/Tires chapter)

Front Fender

Lower Fairings (see Lower Fairing Removal in the Frame

chapter)

Torque - Handlebar Holder Mounting Bolts:

25 N·m (2.5

kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)

13-8 SUSPENSION

Front Fork

Front Fork Oil Change

• Remove the front fork (see Front Fork Removal).

• Remove:

Snap Ring [A] (see Front Fork Removal)

Top Plug [B] with O-ring [C]

Collar [D]

Fork Spring Seat [E]

Fork Spring [F]

• Compress [A] the fork [B] upside down to draw out the oil

into the suitable container [C].

• Pour in the specified amount of oil.

Fork Oil

Viscosity:

SHOWA SS08 or equivalent

SAE 10W

Amount (Per Side):

When changing oil

310 mL (10.5 US oz.)

After disassembly

360 ±2.5 mL (12.2 ±0.08 US oz.)

and completely dry

NOTE

○Move the outer tube up and down a few times to remove

the air that is trapped in the fork oil in order to stabilize

the oil level.

• Hold the outer tube vertically in a vise and compress the

fork completely.

• Wait until the oil level stabilizes.

• Use the fork oil level gauge [A] to measure the distance

between the top of the inner tube to the oil level.

Special Tool - Fork Oil Level Gauge: 57001-1290

○Set the oil level gauge stopper [B] so that the distance [C]

from the bottom of the stopper to the lower end of the pipe

is the standard oil level distance.

○A correct measurement can not be obtained unless the

level gauge pipe is placed in the center of the inner tube.

Oil Level (fully compressed, without spring)

Standard:

108 ±2 mm (4.3 ±0.08 in.)

○Place the stopper of the level gauge at the top [D] of the

inner tube [E] and pull the handle slowly to draw out the

excess oil from fork into the gauge, thus attaining the stan-

dard level.

If not oil is drawn out, there is not enough oil in the fork.

Pour in some more oil and measure again.

SUSPENSION 13-9

Front Fork

• Repeat the same procedure for adjusting the other fork.

• Install the fork spring [A], fork spring seat [B] and collar

[C].

• Inspect the top plug O-ring and snap ring and replace

them with new ones.

• Install the front fork (see Front Fork Installation).

Front Fork Disassembly

• Remove the front fork (see Front Fork Removal).

• Remove:

Snap Ring [A] (see Front Fork Removal)

Top Plug [B] with O-ring [C]

Collar [D]

Fork Spring Seat [E]

Fork Spring [F]

• Hold the front fork leg horizontally in a vise [A].

• Stop the cylinder unit [B] from turning by using the special

tools.

• Unscrew the front fork bottom Allen bolt [C], and then take

out the bolt and gasket out of the bottom of the outer tube.

Special Tools - Fork Cylinder Holder Handle: 57001-183 [D]

Fork Cylinder Holder Adapter: 57001-1057

[E]

• Take the cylinder unit out of the inner tube.

• Remove the following from the top of the outer tube.

Dust Seal [A]

Retaining Ring [B]

• Use the fork outer tube weight [A] to separate the inner

tube from the outer tube. Holding the inner tube by hand

in a vertical position, pull down the outer tube several

times to pull out the inner tube.

Special Tool - Fork Outer Tube Weight: 57001-1218

• Take out the cylinder base from the outer tube bottom.

• Remove the inner guide bushing from the inner tube.

13-10 SUSPENSION

Front Fork

Front Fork Assembly

• Check the top plug O-ring and snap ring and replace them

with new ones if necessary.

• Replace the following parts with new ones.

Inner Guide Bushing [A]

Retaining Ring [B]

Oil Seal [C]

Outer Guide Bushing [D]

Bottom Allen Bolt Gasket [E]

• Put the cylinder unit [A] with the spring into the inner tube

[B] protruding from the inner tube, and install the cylinder

base [C] onto the bottom end of the cylinder unit.

○Install the cylinder base with the tapered end [D] facing

upward.

• Install the inner tube, cylinder unit, and cylinder base as

a set into the outer tube.

• Install the new guide bushing [A] with a use one [B] on it

by tapping the use one with the fork oil seal driver [C].

○The split [D] of the bushing should face toward the side of

the vehicle.

Special Tool - Front Fork Oil Seal Driver: 57001-1219

• Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the oil seal lips and

install the washer and the oil seal [A] into the outer tube.

Special Tool - Front Fork Oil Seal Driver: 57001-1219 [B]

• Install the retaining ring on the outer tube.

• Install a new bottom Allen bolt gasket.

• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of the

bottom Allen bolt and screw the Allen bolt into the bottom

of the outer tube.

• Hold the outer tube in a vise [A], hold the cylinder unit [B]

with the special tools, then tighten the Allen bolt [C].

○Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the front fork bot-

tom Allen bolt.

Special Tools - Fork Cylinder Holder Handle: 57001-183 [D]

Fork Cylinder Holder Adapter: 57001-1057

[E]

Torque - Front Fork Bottom Allen Bolt: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m,

15 ft·lb)

SUSPENSION 13-11

Front Fork

• Fill with the specified type of oil and install the parts re-

moved (see Fork Oil change).

• Install the dust seals.

Fork Oil:

KAYABA SS-8 or equivalent

Capacity (per

360 ±2.5 mL (12.2 ±0.08 US oz), (after

one unit):

fork disassembly and completely dry)

Inner Tube/Outer Tube Inspection

• Visually inspect the inner tube [A] and repair any damage.

• Nick or rust damage can sometimes be repaired by using

a wet-stone to remove sharp edges or raised areas which

cause seal damage.

If the damage is not repairable, replace the inner tube.

Since damage to the inner tube damages the oil seal,

replace the oil seal whenever the inner tube is repaired

or replace.

NOTICE

If the inner tube is badly bent or creased, replace

it.

Excessive bending, followed by subsequent

straightening, can weaken the inner tube.

• Temporarily assemble the inner tube and outer tube [B],

and pump them back and forth manually to check for

smooth operation.

If it does not operate smoothly, replace both the inner tube

and the outer tube.

WARNING

A straightened inner or outer fork tube may fall in

use, possibly causing an accident resulting in seri-

ous injury or death. Replace a badly bent or dam-

aged inner or outer tube and inspect the other tube

carefully before reusing it.

Fork Spring Inspection

• Measure the free length [B] of the fork spring [A].

If the spring of either fork leg is shorter than the service

limit, it must be replaced. If the length of the replacement

spring and that of the remaining spring vary greatly, the

remaining spring should also be replaced in order to keep

the fork legs balanced for motorcycle stability.

Fork Spring Free Length

Standard:

420.5 mm (16.6 in.)

Service Limit:

412 mm (16.2 in.)

Oil Seal/Dust Seal Inspection

• Inspect the oil seal [A] and dust seal [B] for any signs of

deterioration or damage.

Replace it if necessary.

13-12 SUSPENSION

Rear Shock Absorber

Spring Preload Adjustment

• Remove the bolts [A], chain cover [B] and left foot guard

[C] to turn the wrench.

• Using the steering stem nut wrench [A], turn the adjusting

nut to adjust the spring preload.

Special Tool - Steering Stem Nut Wrench: 57001-1100

• The spring preload can be left soft for average riding. But

it should be adjusted harder for high speed riding or riding

with a passenger. If the spring action feels too soft or too

stiff, adjust it in accordance with the following table.

Spring Preload Adjustment

Adjuster

Spring

Setting

Load

Road

Speed

Position

Force

1

Weak

Soft

Light

Good

Low

↑

↑

↑

↑

↑

↑

↓

↓

↓

↓

↓

↓

5

Strong

Hard

Heavy

Bad

High

• The standard adjuster setting is 1 step.

Rear Shock Absorber Removal

• Remove the lower fairings (see Lower Fairing in the

Frame chapter).

• Raise the rear wheel off the ground with jack.

Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238

Jack Attachment: 57001-1608

• Squeeze the brake lever slowly and hold it with the band

[A].

WARNING

Be sure to hold the front brake when removing the

shock absorber, or the motorcycle may fall over. It

could cause an accident and injury.

• Remove:

Tie-rod Lower and Bolt [A]

Rear Shock Absorber Nuts and Bolts [B]

SUSPENSION 13-13

Rear Shock Absorber

Rear Shock Absorber Installation

• Install the rear shock absorber.

• Replace:

Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Nuts

Tie-rod Nuts

• Tighten the tie-rod lower bolt and nut.

Torque - Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Nuts: 59 N·m (6.0

kgf·m, 44 ft·lb)

Tie-rod Nut (Lower): 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 44 ft·lb)

• Adjust the rear shock absorber spring preload in response

to riding condition (see Spring Preload Adjustment).

Rear Shock Absorber Scrapping

WARNING

Since the rear shock absorber contains nitrogen

gas, do not incinerate the rear shock absorber with-

out first releasing the gas or it may explode.

Before a rear shock absorber is scrapped, drill a

hole at the point [A] shown to release the nitrogen

gas completely. Wear safety glasses when drilling

the hole, as the gas may below out bits of drilled

metal when the hole opens.

• Drill the cylinder [A] of the shock absorber using about 2

mm (0.08 in.) drill bit.

13-14 SUSPENSION

Swingarm

Swingarm Removal

• Remove the lower fairings (see Lower Fairing Removal in

the Frame chapter).

• Remove the bolts [A] and the chain cover [B].

• Raise the rear wheel off the ground with jack.

Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238

Jack Attachment: 57001-1608

• Remove:

Rear Wheel (see Rear Wheel Removal in the

Wheels/Tire chapter)

Rear Shock Absorber [A] (see Rear Shock Absorber Re-

moval)

Tie-rod [B] (see Tie-rod Removal)

• Remove:

Brake Hose Clamp Bolt [A]

Bracket [B] with Brake Hose

• Remove the swingarm pivot nut [A] and shaft, remove the

swingarm [B].

Swingarm Installation

• Installation is the reverse of removal.

○Apply grease to the lip of oil seals.

○Be sure to install the oil seal and collar to swingarm.

• Tighten the swingarm pivot nut.

Torque - Swingarm Pivot Nut: 98 N·m (10.0 kgf·m, 72 ft·lb)

• Install the removed parts.

SUSPENSION 13-15

Swingarm

Swingarm Bearing Removal

• Remove:

Swingarm (see Swingarm Removal)

Grease Seal [A]

Sleeve [B]

Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143

• Remove the needle bearing.

Special Tool - Oil Seal & Bearing Remover: 57001-1058 [A]

Swingarm Bearing Installation

• Apply plenty of grease to the needle bearings.

• Install the needle bearings so that the manufacturer’s

marks faces out.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129 [A]

Swingarm Bearing, Sleeve Inspection

NOTICE

Do not remove the bearings for inspection. Re-

moval many damage them.

• The rollers in a needle bearing [A] normally wear very lit-

tle, and wear is difficult to measure. Instead of measuring,

inspect the bearing in the swingarm for abrasion, color

change, or other damage.

If there is any doubt as to the condition of any of the nee-

dle bearings or sleeve, replace the sleeve, and needle

bearings as a set.

13-16 SUSPENSION

Swingarm

Swingarm Lubrication

• Lubricate the swingarm needle bearings [A] according to

the Periodic Maintenance Chart. They are normal for a

small amount of grease to seep out around the grease

seals.

○If the swingarm pivots is disassembled, wipe all the old

grease off the bearings, sleeves, and grease seals, then

grease them.

Chain Guide Inspection

• Refer to the Chain Guide Wear Inspection in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter (see Chain Guide Wear Inspection

in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

SUSPENSION 13-17

Tie-Rod, Rocker Arm

Tie-rods Removal

• Remove the lower fairings (see Lower Fairing Removal in

the Frame chapter).

• Raise the rear wheel off the ground with jack.

Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238

Jack Attachment: 57001-1608

• Remove the tie-rod lower bolt [A] and nut.

• Remove the tie-rod upper bolt [B] and nut, and take off

the tie-rod [C].

• Remove the other tie-rod.

Tie-Rod Installation

• Replace the tie-rod nuts with new ones.

• Install the tie-rod upper bolt first and then the lower bolt.

Torque - Tie-rod Nuts: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 44 ft·lb)

Rocker Arm Removal

• Remove the lower fairings (see Lower Fairing Removal in

the Frame chapter).

• Raise the rear wheel off the ground with jack.

Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238

Jack Attachment: 57001-1608

• Remove:

Rear Shock Absorber Lower Nut and Bolt [A]

Tie-rod Lower Nut and Bolt [B]

Rocker Arm Pivot Shaft [C]

Rocker Arm [D]

○Support the rear wheel to remove the bolts.

NOTICE

When pulling out the bolts, lift the rear wheel

slightly. Forcing or tapping on a bolt could damage

the bolt and sleeve.

Rocker Arm Installation

• Apply grease to all the O-ring, bushing, sleeve, grease

seal.

• Replace:

Rocker Arm Pivot Nut

Tie-Rod Nuts

Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Nuts

• Tighten:

Torque - Rocker Arm Pivot Nut: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 44 ft·lb)

Tie-rod Nut: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 44 ft·lb)

Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Nut: 59 N·m (6.0

kgf·m, 44 ft·lb)

Tie-rod, Rocker Arm Bushing Inspection

• The bushings wear so little that the wear is difficult to mea-

sure. Instead, inspect the bushings for abrasion, color

change or other damage.

If there is any doubt as to the condition of either bushings,

replace the bushing with a new one.

Tie-rod, Rocker Arm Sleeve Inspection

If there is visible damage, replace the sleeve with a new

one.

14-2 STEERING

Exploded View

STEERING 14-3

Exploded View

Torque

No.

Faster

Remarks

N·m

kgf·m

ft·lb

1

Steering Stem Nut

4.9

0.5

43 in·lb

2

Handlebar Holder Mounting Bolts

25

2.5

18

3

Steering Stem Head Bolt

44

4.5

32

4

Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper)

20

2.0

15

5

Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower)

30

3.1

22

AD: Apply adhesive agent.

G: Apply grease.

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

14-6 STEERING

Steering Stem

Steering Stem, Stem Bearing Removal

• Remove:

Front Seat (see Front Seat Removal in the Frame chap-

ter)

Lower Fairings (see Lower Fairing Removal in the Frame

chapter)

Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel System

chapter)

Steering Stem Head Bolt

Steering Stem Head with Handlebars

Front Wheel (see Fuel Wheel Removal in the

Wheels/Tires chapter)

Front Fender (see Front Fender Removal in the Frame

chapter)

Front Forks (see Front Fork Removal in the Suspension

chapter)

• Pushing up the stem base by the hand, and remove the

steering stem nut [A], stem cap [B], and then remove the

steering stem [C].

Special Tool - Steering Stem Nut Wrench: 57001-1100 [D]

NOTE

○Be aware of removing the steering stem so that the stem

bearing steel balls are not lost.

• Remove the upper ball bearing inner race.

• Remove the upper and lower outer races using the outer

race remover [A].

Special Tool - Oil Seal & Bearing Remover: 57001-1058

NOTE

○If either stem bearing is damaged, it is recommended

that both the upper and lower bearings (including the

outer races) should be replaced with new ones.

• Remove the lower bearing inner race [A] (with its grease

seal) which is pressed onto the steering stem using the

bearing puller [B] and adapter [C].

Special Tools - Bearing Puller: 57001-158

Bearing Puller Adapter: 57001-317

STEERING 14-7

Steering Stem

Steering Stem, Stem Bearing Installation

• Replace the bearing outer races with new ones.

• Apply grease to the outer races, and drive them into the

head pipe at the same time.

Special Tools - Head Pipe Outer Race Press Shaft: 57001

-1075 [A]

Head Pipe Outer Race Driver,

51.5: 57001

-1076 [B]

Head Pipe Outer Race Driver,

47:

57001

-1447 [C]

• Replace the bearing inner race with new one.

• Install the washer [D] and grease seal [E] on the steering

stem, and drive the ball bearing inner race [A] applied

grease onto the stem.

Special Tools - Steering Stem Bearing Driver:

57001-137

[B]

Steering Stem Bearing Driver Adapter,

34.5: 57001-1074 [C]

• Apply grease to the lower ball bearings (20) and stem

inner race and install them onto the steering stem.

• Apply grease to the upper ball bearings (19) [A] and outer

race [B], and install the ball bearings onto the outer race.

• Insert the steering stem [A] carefully through the head

pipe so that the steel balls on the steering stem does not

fall.

• Install the stem cap [B] and steering stem nut [C], and

tighten it by hand.

• Install the stem head [D] with the handlebars.

• Tighten the stem head bolt [E] lightly.

14-8 STEERING

Steering Stem

• Settle the bearings in place as follows:

○Tighten the steering stem nut with 15 N·m (1.5 kgf·m, 11

ft·lb) of torque first, and loosen it a fraction of a turn until

it turns lightly (To tighten the stem nut to the specified

torque, hook the wrench on the stem nut, and pull the

wrench at the hole by 84 N (8.6 kgf, 191 lb) [B] force in

the direction shown.).

○Tighten the steering stem nut with specified torque using

a special tool [A].

○Check that there is no play and the steering stem turns

smoothly without rattles. If not, the steering stem bearing

may be damaged.

○Again back out the stem nut a fraction of turn until it turns

lightly.

• Turn the stem nut lightly clockwise until it just becomes

hard to turn. Do not overtighten, or the steering will be

too tight.

Special Tool - Steering Stem Nut Wrench: 57001-1100

Torque - Steering Stem Nut: 4.9 N·m (0.5 kgf·m, 43 in·lb)

• Adjust the steering (see Steering Play Inspection in the

Periodic Maintenance chapter).

• Install the front forks (see Front Fork Installation in the

Suspension chapter).

NOTE

○Tighten the fork upper clamp bolts first, next the stem

head bolt, last the fork lower clamp bolts.

Torque - Steering Stem Head Bolt: 44 N·m (4.5 kgf·m, 32

ft·lb)

Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper):

20 N·m (2.0

kgf·m, 14.5 ft·lb)

Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower):

30 N·m (3.1

kgf·m, 22 ft·lb)

STEERING 14-9

Steering Stem

• Install:

Front Fender

Front Wheel (see Front Wheel Installation in the

Wheel/Tires chapter)

Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Installation in the Fuel System

chapter)

Lower Fairings (see Lower Fairing Installation in the

Frame chapter)

Front Seat (see Front Seat Installation in the Frame

chapter)

• Route the cables and harness correctly. (see Cable, Wire

and Hose Routing in the Appendix chapter).

WARNING

If the handlebar does not turn to the steering stop it

may cause an accident resulting in injury or death.

Be sure the cables,harnesses and hoses are routed

properly and do not interfere with handlebar move-

ment (see Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing section in

the Appendix chapter).

• Check and adjust the following.

Front Brake

Clutch

Throttle Cable

Rear View Mirrors

Headlight Aim

Stem Bearing Lubrication

• Refer to Steering Stem Bearing Lubrication in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter (see Steering Stem Bearing Lubri-

cation in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Grease Seal, Deterioration, Damage Inspection

• Inspect the grease seal for any sign of deterioration or

damage.

Replace the grease seal if necessary.

Steering Stem Warp Inspection

• Whenever the steering stem is removed, or if the steering

can not be adjusted for smooth action, check the steering

stem for straightness.

If the steering stem [A] is bent, replace the steering stem.

14-10 STEERING

Handlebars

Right Handlebar Holder Removal

• Remove:

Right Switch Housing [A]

Front Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts [B]

Handlebar Holder Mounting Bolts and Caps [C]

Right Handlebar [D]

Right Handlebar Holder Installation

• Install:

Right Handlebar Holder

Right Switch Housing

• Install the front master cylinder so that the punch mark [A]

of the handlebar is aligned with the mating surface [B] of

the master cylinder clamp to level the reservoir.

NOTE

○When the master cylinder clamp shall be installed, be

sure to install it so that the arrow mark [A] on it direct

upward.

○Tighten the upper clamp bolt [B] first, and then the lower

clamp bolt [C] with a specified torque so that there will

be a gap at the lower part of the clamp.

Torque - Front Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts: 8.8 N·m (0.9

kgf·m, 78 in·lb)

Right Handlebar Holder Mounting Bolts: 25 N·m

(2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)

• Push the caps into the handlebar holder mounting bolts.

Left Handlebar Holder Removal

• Remove:

Left Switch Housing [A]

Clutch Lever Holder Clamp Bolt [B]

Handlebar Holder Mounting Bolts and Caps [C]

Left Handlebar [D]

STEERING 14-11

Handlebars

Left Handlebar Holder Installation Note

• Install the clutch lever holder so that the punch mark [A]

of the handlebar is aligned with the mating surface [B] of

the clutch lever holders clamps.

• Tighten the following with the specified torque.

Torque - Clutch Lever Holder Clamp Bolts:

8.8 N·m (0.9

kgf·m, 78 in·lb)

Left Handlebar Holder Mounting Bolts:

25 N·m

(2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)

• Push the caps into the handlebar holder mounting bolts.

15-2 FRAME

Exploded View

FRAME 15-3

Exploded View

Torque

No.

Fastener

Remarks

N·m

kgf·m

ft·lb

1

Sidestand Nut

39

4.0

29

R

2

Front Footpeg Bracket Mounting Bolts

25

2.5

18

3

Rear Footpeg Bracket Mounting Bolts

25

2.5

18

4

Sidestand Switch Bolt

8.8

0.90

78 in·lb

L

5. EX250J8 Model

6. EX250JB ∼ JC Models

G: Apply grease.

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

R: Replacement Parts

15-4 FRAME

Exploded View

15-6 FRAME

Seat

Front Seat Removal

• Remove the side covers (see Side Cover Removal).

• Remove the front seat bolts [A].

• Slide the front seat backwards [B] and remove the front

seat [C].

Front Seat Installation

• Slip [A] the hooks into the hollows and put [B] the projec-

tions on the frame.

Rear Seat Removal

• Insert the ignition switch key into the seat lock [A].

• Turning the key clockwise, raise the front of the seat up

[B], and pull the seat frontwards.

Rear Seat Installation

• Slip [A] the rear seat hook into the hollow cubic bracket

on the frame.

• Push down the front part of the seat until the lock clicks,

algining [B] the pin with the hole.

FRAME 15-7

Fairings

Lower Fairing Removal

• Remove the side covers (see Side Cover Removal).

• Remove the rivets [A].

• Remove the lower fairing mounting screws [B] and mount-

ing Allen bolts [C].

• Disconnect the front turn signal light connectors [A] and

remove the lower fairings [B].

• Remove the radiator fairing screws [A] and the rivets [B],

and remove the radiator fairing [C].

Lower Fairing Installation

• Fit the front portions [A] of radiator fairing into the lower

portions [B] of upper fairing.

15-8 FRAME

Fairings

• Route the front turn signal light lead [A] on the fooks [B].

• Install the lower fairing.

○Fit the front portion of the lower fairing in the rear portion

of the upper fairing.

○Install the tabs [B] on the lower fairing into the rescesses

[C] on the upper cover.

Upper Fairing Removal

• Remove:

Lower Fairings (see Lower Fairing Removal)

Radiator Fairing (see Lower Fairing Removal)

• Remove the windshield mounting screws [A] and take out

the windshield [B].

• Remove the upper fairing bolts [A] and pull the upper fair-

ing [B] forwards.

• Disconnect the headlight connectors [A] and remove the

upper fairing [B].

FRAME 15-9

Fairings

• Remove:

Bolts [A]

Headlight Unit [B]

Upper Fairing Installation

• When installing the windshield, align the windshield bot-

tom end [A] with the projection [B] on the upper fairing.

Upper Cover Removal

• Remove the upper fairing (see Upper Fairing Removal).

• Disconnect:

Speedometer Cable Lower End [A]

Meter Lead Connectors [B]

• Remove the upper cover [A].

• Remove the meter from the upper cover (see Meter Re-

moval in the Electrical System chapter).

Upper Cover Installation

• Route the cable and leads correctly (see Cable, Wire and

Harness Routing in the Appendix chapter).

15-10 FRAME

Side Cover

Side Cover Removal

• Remove the side cover bolt [A].

• Pull the side cover outwards to clear the stoppers [B].

• Slide the side cover forwards [C] and remove the side

cover [D].

Side Cover Installation

• Slip [A] the hook into the brace and put [B] the stoppers

into the grommets.

• Tighten the side cover bolt securely.

FRAME 15-11

Fenders

Front Fender Removal

• Remove the front fender mounting bolts [A] (both sides)

and pull out the front fender [B] forward.

Rear Fender Removal

• Remove:

Rear Seat (see Rear Seat Removal)

Front Seat (see Front Seat Removal)

• Remove the seat cover screws [A] and pull the seat cov-

ers [B] to clear the stoppers [C].

• Remove the projection [A] from the hole [B], and slide [C]

the cover [D] frontwards.

• Remove:

Rear Footpeg Bracket Bolts

Rear Footpeg Bracket

• Remove the screws [A] (both sides).

• Disconnect the electrical connectors from the main har-

ness and remove the fender bolts (rear) [A].

15-12 FRAME

Fenders

• Remove the battery (see Battery Removal in the Electrical

System chapter).

• Take out the fuse box [A] and IC igniter [B].

• Remove:

Battery Case Screws [C]

Rear Fender Bolts (Front) [D]

• Remove the rear fender.

Rear Fender Installation

• Route the following therough the hole [A] on the rear

fender.

License Plate Light Leads

Rear Right and Left Turn Signal Light Leads

• Install the damper to the cover so that its flatten side [A]

faces downwards.

• Be sure that the damper [A] is in position.

Sidestand Removal

• Raise the rear wheel off the ground with the stand.

• Remove:

Sidestand Switch Bolt [A]

Sidestand Switch [B]

Spring [C]

Sidestand Bolt [D]

Sidestand [E]

FRAME 15-13

Fenders

Sidestand Installation

• Apply grease to the sliding area [A] of the sidestand [B].

• Replace the sidestand nut with a new one.

• Tighten the bolt and lock them with the nut.

Torque - Sidestand Nut: 39 N·m (4.0 kgf·m, 29 ft·lb)

• Hook the spring [C] so that face the long spring end up-

ward.

○Install the spring hook direction as shown in the figure.

• Install the sidestand switch.

• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of

the switch bolt, and tighten it.

Torque - Sidestand Switch Bolt:

8.8 N·m (0.90 kgf·m, 78

in·lb)

16-4 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Exploded View

16-6 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Exploded View

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-7

Exploded View

Torque

No.

Fastener

Remarks

N·m

kgf·m

ft·lb

1

Plugs on Alternator Cover

-

-

-

Hand-Tighten

2

Alternator Cover Bolts

9.8

1.0

87 in·lb

3

Alternator Rotor Bolt

88.2

9.0

65

4

Alternator Stator Bolts

12

1.2

104 in·lb

5

Regulator/Rectifier Bolts

9.8

1.0

87 in·lb

6

Starter Motor Clutch Bolts

34.3

3.5

25

L

7

Crankshaft Sensor Screws

3.0

0.30

27 in·lb

8

Ignition Coil Bolts

-

-

-

see text

9

Spark Plugs

13

1.3

115 in·lb

10

Starter Motor Terminal Locknut

9.8

1.0

87 in·lb

11

Starter Motor Assembly Bolts

3.5

0.36

31 in·lb

12

Starter Motor Mounting Bolts

9.8

1.0

87 in·lb

13

Starter Relay Terminal Nut

5.0

0.5

44 in·lb

14. IC Igniter

G: Apply grease.

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

M: Apply molybdenum disulfide grease.

SS: Apply silicone grease.

16-8 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Exploded View

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-9

Exploded View

Torque

No.

Fastener

Remarks

N·m

kgf·m

ft·lb

1

Oil Pressure Switch

15

1.5

11

SS

2

Neutral Switch

15

1.5

11

3. Rear Brake Light Switch

4. Side Stand Switch

5. Radiator Fan Switch

6. Water Temperature Switch

7. Ignition Switch

8. Turn Signal Relay

9. Fuse Box

10. Headlight Circuit Relay

11. Starter Circuit Relay

12. Damper (EX250J8 Model)

G: Apply grease.

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

SS: Apply silicone grease.

16-10 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Wiring Diagram (other than Indonesia and Philippines of the EX250J8 ∼ J9)

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-11

Wiring Diagram (other than Indonesia and Philippines of the EX250J8 ∼ J9)

16-12 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Wiring Diagram (Indonesia and Philippines of the EX250J8 ∼ J9)

Content      ..     1      2      3      4      ..