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Kawasaki Ninja 250R Motorcycle. Service Manual (2007) - page 3

9-8 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Specifications

Connecting Rod Big End Bearing Insert Selection

Con-rod Big End Bore

Crankpin Diameter

Bearing Insert

Diameter Marking

Marking

Size Color

Parts Number

○

○

Black

92028-1493

None

None

○

None

Blue

92028-1492

None

○

Brown

92028-1494

Crankshaft Main Bearing Insert Selection

Crankcase Main

Crankpin Main

Bearing Insert**

Bearing Bore

Journal Diameter

Size Color

Parts Number

Journal Nos.

Diameter Marking

Marking

92028-1487

1, 3

○

1

Black

92028-1490

2

92028-1582

1, 3

None

None

Yellow

92028-1586

2

○

None

92028-1486

1, 3

Blue

None

1

92028-1489

2

**: The bearing inserts for No.2 journal have an oil groove.

Balancer Shaft Bearing Insert Selection

Balancer Shaft

Crankcase Balancer

Bearing Insert

Journal Diameter

Shaft Bore Diameter

Size Color

Parts Number

Marking

Marking

○

○

Brown

92028-1424

○

None

Black

92028-1423

None

○

None

None

Blue

92028-1422

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-9

Special Tools and Sealants

Bearing Puller:

Liquid Gasket, TB1211:

57001-135

56019-120

Outside Circlip Pliers:

Liquid Gasket, TB1216B:

57001-144

92104-1064

Bearing Puller Adapter:

57001-317

9-10 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Crankcase

Crankcase Splitting

• Remove the engine (see Engine Removal in the Engine

Removal/Installation chapter).

• Set the engine on a clean surface or, preferably mount it

on an engine stand to hold the engine steady while parts

are being removed.

• Remove the water pipe and hose (cylinder rearward).

NOTE

○If the engine is to be mounted on an engine stand, the

upper crankcase half bolts [A] shown must be removed

before mounting the engine.

Washer [B]

• Remove:

Alternator Cover (see Alternator Cover Removal in the

Electrical System chapter)

Water Pump, Hose and Pipe (see Water Pump Removal

in the Cooling System chapter)

Starter Motor Clutch Gear

Oil Pipe and Banjo Bolt

Starter Motor (see Starter Motor Removal in the Electri-

cal System chapter)

Oil Pump (see Oil Pump Removal in the Engine Lubri-

cation System chapter)

Cylinder Head Cover (see Cylinder Head Cover Re-

moval in the Engine Top End chapter)

Alternator Rotor (see Alternator Rotor Removal in the

Electrical System chapter)

One Way Clutch Gear

Oil Hose Banjo Bolt

Camshafts Chain Tensioner (see Camshafts Chain Ten-

sioner Removal in the Engine Top End chapter)

Clutch Cover (see Clutch Cover Removal in the Clutch

chapter)

Camshafts (see Camshaft Removal in the Engine Top

End chapter)

Cylinder Head (see Cylinder Head Removal in the En-

gine Top End chapter)

Cylinder (see Cylinder Removal in the Engine Top End

chapter)

Pistons (see Piston Removal in the Engine Top End

chapter)

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-11

Crankcase

• Remove the clutch only if the transmission drive shaft as-

sembly is to be removed.

• Remove the oil pressure bolt [A] with the oil pressure

switch [B] and oil hose [C].

• Remove the neutral switch [D].

• Remove the upper crankcase half bolt (1) (3 were re-

moved just after engine removal).

• Turn the engine upside down.

• Remove the oil filter mounting bolt, oil filter, and large

O-ring.

• Remove the oil screen cover [A] and screen [B].

• Remove the 6 mm [A] and 8 mm [B] lower crankcase half

bolt, ply the point [C] shown to split the two crankcase

halves apart, and lift off the lower crankcase half.

Washer [D]

Crankcase Assembly

NOTE

○The upper/lower crankcase halves are machined at the

factory as an assembly, so the crankcase halves must

be replaced as a set.

• Assembly is the reverse of splitting. Be careful of the

following items.

○With a high flash-point solvent, clean off the mating sur-

face of the crankcase halves and wipe dry.

○When installing the output and drive shafts, the crankcase

set pins [A] must go into the holes in the needle bearing

outer races, and the set rings [B] must fit into the grooves

in the ball bearings.

9-12 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Crankcase

○When the oil pressure switch is installed, apply the liquid

gasket to the threads of the switch.

Sealant - Liquid Gasket, TB1211: 56019-120

NOTICE

Make sure the crankcase set pins are properly

aligned to avoid damage to the crankcases upon

installation.

Don’t use usual set pins because the set pins of

this model are different from usual pins. They are

hollow and also used to pass oil. If you use usual

pins by mistake, the engine always seized.

○Check that the knock pins (2) are in place.

○Apply a little engine oil to the transmission gears ball bear-

ings, shift drum, and crankshaft main bearing inserts.

• Apply liquid gasket to the mating surface of the lower

crankcase half.

Sealant - Liquid Gasket, TB1216B: 92104-1064 [A]

○After assembling the crankcase halves, wipe off excess

liquid gasket on the inside portion [B].

NOTICE

If liquid gasket adheres to any areas not indicated,

the engine oil passage may be obstructed, causing

engine seizure.

○Check to see that the shift drum is in the neutral position,

that is, the projection at operating plate is seen from neu-

tral switch hole at the upper crankcase half.

○When fitting the lower crankcase half on the upper

crankcase half, each shift fork must fit in its gear groove.

○Loosely tighten all lower crankcase half bolts to a snug fit.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-13

Crankcase

• Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to flange [A] and

the threads [B] of the M8 bolts which is tightening order is

[1 ∼ 8] only (see the next figure).

○Following the sequence numbers on the lower crankcase

half, tighten the 8 mm bolts [A] first to about one half of

the specified torque, and finally to the specified torque in

the same sequence.

○Replace the copper washer [C] with a new one.

○Tighten the 6 mm bolts [B] on the lower crankcase half to

the specified torque.

Torque - Crankcase Bolts (

8, L = 90):

First: 10 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 89 in·lb)

Final: 24 N·m (2.4 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)

Crankcase Bolts (

8, L = 73):

First: 10 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 89 in·lb)

Final: 19 N·m (1.9 kgf·m, 14 ft·lb)

○Replace the copper washer [B] with a new one.

○Tighten the 6 mm bolts [A] on the upper crankcase half to

the specified torque.

Torque - Crankcase Bolts (

6): 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 104 in·lb)

• After tightening all crankcase bolts, check the following

items.

○Drive shaft and output shaft turn freely.

○While spinning the output shaft, shift the transmission

smoothly from 1st to 6th gear, and back,

○Unless the output shaft is turning, the transmission cannot

be shifted to 2nd gear or other higher gear positions.

Crankcase Exchange

If the crankcase is damaged, replace it with a new one.

• Remove the crankcase parts from the damaged case, and

install it to the new case. Pay attention to the following

items.

○When installing the oil passage plug must be inserted as

shown.

[1] Lower Crankcase Half

[2] Oil Passage Pipe

[3] Press

[4] Small Hall (Up)

[5] Slit (Horizontal)

○Fit the oil passage O-ring on the breather body. Replace

the O-ring with new ones, if deteriorated or damage. The

flat side of the O-ring must face down.

○Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of

the breather bolts, and tighten them.

9-14 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

Crankshaft Removal

• Split the crankcase (see Crankcase Splitting).

• Take the crankshaft out of the upper crankcase.

Crankshaft Installation

• Install the removed parts in reverse of removal.

NOTE

○If the crankshaft is replaced with a new one, refer to the

Connecting Rod Big End Bearing Insert Selection in the

specifications.

NOTICE

If the crankshaft, bearing inserts, or crankcase

halves are replaced with new ones, select the bear-

ing inserts and check clearance with a plastigage

(press gauge) before assembling engine to be sure

the correct bearing inserts are installed.

• Align the timing mark [C] on the balancer drive gear [A]

with the timing mark [C] on the balancer gear [B].

• Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to the crankshaft

main bearing inserts.

• Install the crankshaft.

Connecting Rod Removal

• Split the crankcase (see Crankcase Splitting).

• Remove the connecting rod big end cap nuts.

• Remove the crankshaft.

NOTE

○Mark and record the locations of the connecting rods

and their big end caps so that they can be reassembled

in their original positions.

• Remove the connecting rods from the crankshaft.

NOTICE

Discard the connecting rod bolts. To prevent dam-

age to the crankpin surfaces, do not allow the con-

necting rod bolts to bump against the crankpins.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-15

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

Connecting Rod Installation

NOTICE

To minimize vibration, the connecting rods should

have the same weight mark.

Big End Cap [A]

Connecting Rod [B]

Weight Mark, Alphabet [C]

Diameter Mark (Around Weight Mark) [D]: “○” or no

mark

NOTICE

If the connecting rods, big end bearing inserts, or

crankshaft are replaced with new ones, select the

bearing insert and check clearance with a plasti-

gage (press gauge) before assembling engine to be

sure the correct bearing inserts are installed.

NOTICE

The connecting rod bolts are designed to stretch

when tightened. Never reuse them.

• Replace the connecting rod big end bolts and nuts with

new ones.

• Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to the inner sur-

face of upper and lower bearing inserts [A].

• Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to the threads [B]

and seating surface [C] of the connecting rod nuts.

Torque - Connecting Rod Big End Cap Nuts: 27.5 N·m (2.8

kgf·m, 20 ft·lb)

Crankshaft/Connecting Rod Cleaning

• After removing the connecting rods from the crankshaft,

clean them with a high-flash point solvent.

• Blow the crankshaft oil passages with compressed air to

remove any foreign particles or residue that may have

accumulated in the passages.

9-16 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

Connecting Rod Bend Inspection

• Remove the connecting rod big end bearing inserts, and

reinstall the connecting rod big end cap.

• Select an arbor [A] of the same diameter as the connect-

ing rod big end, and insert the arbor through the connect-

ing rod big end.

• Select an arbor of the same diameter as the piston pin

and at least 100 mm (3.94 in.) long, and insert the arbor

[B] through the connecting rod small end.

• On a surface plate, set the big-end arbor on V block [C].

• With the connecting rod held vertically, use a height

gauge to measure the difference in the height of the

arbor above the surface plate over a 100 mm (3.94 in.)

length to determine the amount of connecting rod bend.

If the connecting rod bend exceeds the service limit, the

connecting rod must be replaced.

Connecting Rod Bend

Service Limit: TIR 0.2/100 mm (0.008/3.94 in.)

Connecting Rod Twist Inspection

• With the big-end arbor [A] still on V block [C], hold the

connecting rod horizontally and measure the amount that

the arbor [B] varies from being paralleled with the surface

plate over a 100 mm (3.94 in.) length of the arbor to de-

termine the amount of connecting rod twist.

If the connecting rod twist exceeds the service limit, the

connecting rod must be replaced.

Connecting Rod Twist

Service Limit: TIR 0.2/100 mm (0.008/3.94 in.)

Connecting Rod Big End Side Clearance

Inspection

• Measure the connecting rod big end side clearance [A].

○Insert a thickness gauge [B] between the big end and the

crank web to determine clearance.

Connecting Rod Big End Side Clearance

Standard:

0.13 ∼ 0.38 mm (0.005 ∼ 0.015 in.)

Service Limit: 0.58 mm (0.023 in.)

If the clearance exceeds the service limit, replace the con-

necting rod with new one and then check the clearance

again. If the clearance is too large after connecting rod

replacement, the crankshaft also must be replaced.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-17

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

Connecting Rod Big End Bearing Insert/Crankpin

Wear Inspection

• Measure the bearing insert/crankpin clearance [B] with

plastigage [A].

• Tighten the big end nuts to the specified torque (see Con-

necting Rod Installation).

NOTE

○Do not move the connecting rod and crankshaft during

clearance measurement.

Connecting Rod Big End Bearing Insert/Crankpin

Clearance

Standard:

0.031 ∼ 0.059 mm (0.0012 ∼ 0.0023 in.)

Service Limit: 0.10 mm (0.004 in.)

If the clearance is within the standard, no bearing replace-

ment is required.

If the clearance is between 0.059 mm (0.0023 in.) and

the service limit 0.10 mm (0.004 in.), replace the bear-

ing inserts [A] with inserts painted black [B]. Check the

insert/crankpin clearance with the plastigage. The clear-

ance may exceed the standard slightly, but it must not be

less than the minimum in order to avoid bearing seizure.

If the clearance exceeds the service limit, measure the

diameter of the crankpins.

Crankpin Diameter

Standard:

29.984 ∼ 30.000 mm (1.1805 ∼ 1.1811 in.)

Service Limit: 29.97 mm (1.18 in.)

If any crankpin has worn past the service limit, replace the

crankshaft with a new one.

If the measured crankpin diameters are not less than the

service limit, but do not coincide with the original diameter

markings on the crankshaft, make new marks on it.

Crankpin Diameter Marks

None: 29.984 ∼ 29.994 mm (1.1805 ∼ 1.1809 in.)

○:

29.995 ∼ 30.000 mm (1.1809 ∼ 1.1811 in.)

◊: Crankpin Diameter Marks, "○" mark or no mark.

9-18 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

• Measure the connecting rod big end bore diameter, and

mark each connecting rod big end in accordance with the

bore diameter.

• Tighten the big end nuts to the specified torque (see Con-

necting Rod Installation).

NOTE

○The mark already on the big end should almost coincide

with the measurement because of little wear.

Connecting Rod Big End Bore Diameter Marks

None: 33.000 ∼ 33.008 mm (1.2992 ∼ 1.2995 in.)

○:

33.009 ∼ 33.016 mm (1.2996 ∼ 1.2998 in.)

Big End Cap [A]

Connecting Rod [B]

Weight Mark, Alphabet [C]

Diameter Mark (Around Weight Mark) [D]: “○” or no

mark

• Select the proper bearing insert [A] in accordance with the

combination of the connecting rod and crankshaft coding.

Size Color [B]

Con-rod Bid

Crankpin

Bearing Insert

End Bore

Diameter

Size Color

Part Number

Diameter

Marking

None

○

Brown

92028-1494

None

None

Black

92028-1493

○

○

○

None

Blue

92028-1492

• Install the new inserts in the connecting rod and check

insert/crankpin clearance with the plastigage.

Crankshaft Side Clearance Inspection

• Insert a thickness gauge [A] between the crankcase main

bearing and the crank web at the No. 2 journal [B] to

determine clearance.

If the clearance exceeds the service limit, replace the

crankcase halves as a set.

NOTE

○The upper and lower crankcase halves are machined

at the factory in the assembled state, so the crankcase

halves must be replaced as a set.

Crankshaft Side Clearance

Standard:

0.05 ∼ 0.20 mm (0.002 ∼ 0.008 in.)

Service Limit:

0.40 mm (0.016 in.)

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-19

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

Crankshaft Runout Inspection

• Measure the crankshaft runout.

If the measurement exceeds the service limit, replace the

crankshaft.

Crankshaft Runout

Standard:

TIR 0.02 mm (0.0008 in.) or less

Service Limit: TIR 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)

Crankshaft Main Bearing Insert/Journal Wear

Inspection

• Using a plastigage (press gauge), measure the bearing

insert/journal [B] clearance [A].

NOTE

○Tighten the crankcase bolts to the specified torque (see

Crankcase Assembly).

○Do not turn the crankshaft during clearance measure-

ment.

○Journal clearance less than 0.025 mm (0.001 in.) can

not be measured by plastigage, however, using genuine

parts maintains the minimum standard clearance.

Crankshaft Main Bearing Insert/Journal Clearance

Standard:

0.014 ∼ 0.038 mm (0.0006 ∼ 0.0015 in.)

Service Limit: 0.07 mm (0.0028 in.)

If the clearance is within the standard, no bearing replace-

ment is required.

If the clearance is between 0.038 mm (0.0015 in.) and the

service limit 0.07 mm (0.0028 in.), replace the bearing in-

serts [A] with inserts painted blue [B]. Check insert/journal

clearance with the plastigage. The clearance may exceed

the standard slightly, but it must not be less than the min-

imum in order to avoid bearing seizure.

If the clearance exceeds the service limit, measure the

diameter of the crankshaft main journal.

Crankshaft Main Journal Diameter

Standard:

27.984 ∼ 28.000 mm (1.1017 ∼ 1.1024 in.)

Service Limit: 27.96 mm (1.101 in.)

If any journal has worn past the service limit, replace the

crankshaft with a new one.

If the measured journal diameters are not less than the

service limit, but do not coincide with the original diameter

markings on the crankshaft, make new marks on it.

Crankshaft Main Journal Diameter Marks

None: 27.984 ∼ 27.992 mm (1.1017 ∼ 1.1020 in.)

1:

27.993 ∼ 28.000 mm (1.1021 ∼ 1.1024 in.)

□: Crankshaft Main Journal Diameter Marks, "1" mark

or no mark.

9-20 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

• Measure the main bearing bore diameter, and mark the

upper crankcase half in accordance with the bore diame-

ter.

A: Crankcase Main Bearing Bore Diameter Marks, "○"

mark or no mark.

NOTE

○Tighten the crankcase bolts to the specified torque (see

Crankcase Assembly).

○The mark already on the upper crankcase half should

almost coincide with the measurement.

Crankcase Main Bearing Bore Diameter Marks

○:

31.000 ∼ 31.008 mm (1.2205 ∼ 1.2208 in.)

None: 31.009 ∼ 31.016 mm (1.2208 ∼ 1.2211 in.)

• Select the proper bearing insert [A] in accordance with the

combination of the crankcase and crankshaft coding.

Size Color [B]

Crankcase Main

Crankshaft Main

Bearing Insert*

Bearing Bore

Journal Diameter

Size Color

Part Number

Journal Nos.

Diameter Marking

Marking

92028-1487

1, 3

○

1

Black

92028-1490

2

None

1

92028-1486

1, 3

Blue

○

None

92028-1489

2

92028-1582

1, 3

None

None

Yellow

92028-1586

2

*The bearing insert for No.2 journal have an oil groove.

• Install the new inserts in the crankcase halves and check

insert/journal clearance with the plastigage.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-21

Starter Motor Clutch

Starter Motor Clutch Removal/Installation

• Refer to Alternator Rotor Removal and Installation in the

Electrical System chapter (see Alternator Rotor Removal

and Installation in the Electrical System chapter).

Starter Motor Clutch Inspection

• Remove:

Alternator Cover (see Alternator Cover Removal in the

Electrical System chapter)

Starter Idle Gear

• Turn the starter motor clutch gear [A] by hand. The starter

motor clutch gear should turn clockwise [B] freely, but

should not turn counterclockwise [C].

If the starter motor clutch does not operate as it should or

if it makes noise, go to the next step.

• Disassemble the starter motor clutch, and visually inspect

the clutch parts.

If there is any worn or damaged part, replace it.

NOTE

○Examine the starter motor clutch gear as well. Replace

it if is worn or damage.

Starter Motor Clutch Disassembly

• Remove:

Alternator Rotor (see Alternator Rotor Removal in the

Electrical System chapter)

Starter Motor Clutch Bolts [A] and Starter Motor Clutch

[B]

Alternator Rotor [C]

Starter Motor Clutch Assembly

• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of

the starter motor clutch bolts and tighten them.

Torque - Starter Motor Clutch Bolts: 34.3 N·m (3.5 kgf·m,

25 ft·lb)

9-22 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Balancer

Balancer Removal

• Split the crankcase (see Crankcase Splitting).

• Pull the balancer shaft with the balancer gear out of the

crankcase.

Balancer Installation

• Balancer installation is the reverse of removal.

• Apply oil to the inside of the balancer shaft bearing insert.

• Align the timing mark [C] on the balancer gear [B] with

the timing mark [C] on the balancer drive gear [A] of the

crankshaft.

Balancer Shaft Bearing Insert/Journal Wear

Inspection

• Measure the bearing insert/journal clearance.

○Split the crankcase and wipe each bearing insert and jour-

nal [A] surface clean of oil.

○Cut strips of plastigage (press gauge) [B] to bearing insert

width, and place a strip on each journal parallel to the

balancer shaft so that the plastigage will be compressed

between the journal and the bearing insert.

○Install the lower crankcase half, and tighten the case bolts

to the specified torque.

Torque - Crankcase Bolts

8: 27 N·m (2.8 kgf·m, 20 ft·lb)

Crankcase Bolts

6: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 104 in·lb)

NOTE

○Do not turn the balancer shaft during clearance mea-

surement.

○Remove the lower crankcase half and measure the plas-

tigage width to determine the bearing insert/journal clear-

ance.

Balancer Shaft Bearing Insert/Journal Clearance

Standard:

0.020 ∼ 0.044 mm (0.0008 ∼ 0.0017 in.)

Service Limit: 0.07 mm (0.0028 in.)

If the clearance is within the standard, no bearing replace-

ment is required.

If the clearance is between 0.044 mm (0.0017 in.) and

the service limit 0.07 mm (0.0028 in.), replace the bear-

ing inserts with inserts painted blue. Check insert/journal

clearance with the plastigage. The clearance may exceed

the standard slightly, but it must not be less than the min-

imum in order to avoid bearing seizure.

If the clearance exceeds the service limit, measure the

diameter of the balancer shaft journal.

Balancer Shaft Journal Diameter

Standard:

25.984 ∼ 26.000 mm (1.0230 ∼ 1.0236 in.)

Service Limit:

25.96 mm (1.022 in.)

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-23

Balancer

If either journal has worn past the service limit, replace

the balancer shaft with a new one.

If the measured journal diameter is not less than the ser-

vice limit, but does not coincide with the original diameter

markings [A] on the balancer shaft, make new marks on

it.

Balancer Shaft Journal Diameter Marks

None: 25.984 ∼ 25.994 mm (1.0230 ∼ 1.0234 in.)

○:

25.995 ∼ 26.000 mm (1.0234 ∼ 1.0236 in.)

• Put the lower crankcase half on the upper crankcase half

without bearing inserts, and tighten the case bolts to the

specified torque and sequence (see Crankcase Assem-

bly).

• Measure the main bearing inside diameter, and mark the

upper crankcase half in accordance with the inside diam-

eter.

NOTE

○The mark [A] already on the upper crankcase half

should almost coincide with the measurement.

Crankcase Bearing Inside Diameter Marks

○:

29.000 ∼ 29.008 mm (1.1417 ∼ 1.1420 in.)

None: 29.009 ∼ 29.016 mm (1.1421 ∼ 1.1424 in.)

• Select the proper bearing inserts [A] in accordance with

the combination of the crankcase and balancer shaft cod-

ing.

• Install the new inserts in the crankcase and check in-

sert/journal clearance with the plastigage.

Size Color [B]

Crankcase

Balancer

Bearing Insert

Bearing Inside

Shaft Journal

Part Number

Diameter Mark

Diameter MarkSizeColor

○

○

Brown

92028-1424

None

None

Blue

92028-1422

○

None

Black

92028-1423

None

○

9-24 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Transmission

Shift Pedal Removal

• Remove:

Shift Pedal Mounting Bolt [A]

Shift Lever Bolt [B]

Shift Pedal [C] with Shift Lever

Shift Pedal Installation

• Apply grease to the shift pedal [A].

• Install the washers [B] and shift pedal.

• For EX250J8 ∼ JB (with a non-permanent locking agent)

models, apply a non-permanent locking agent to the shift

pedal mounting bolt [C], and tighten it.

Torque - Shift Pedal Mounting Bolt: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15

ft·lb)

• For EX250JB ∼ JC (without a non-permanent locking

agent) models, tighten the shift pedal mounting bolt.

Torque - Shift Pedal Mounting Bolt: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18

ft·lb)

• Align the mark [A] on the shift shaft with the mark [B] on

the shift lever.

• Tighten:

Torque - Shift Lever Link Bolt: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 106 in·lb)

• Install the shift pedal [C] as shown in the figure.

About 16° [D]

○To adjust the pedal position, loosen the front locknut [E]

(left-hand threads) and rear locknut [F] and then turn the

tie-rod [G].

• Tighten:

Torque - Tie-Rod Locknuts: 7.0 N·m (0.71 kgf·m, 62 in·lb)

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-25

Transmission

• Be sure the sealing lip of the rubber boots [A] fits into the

groove of the ball joint after installing the shift lever link.

Correctly Boot Fitting Position [B]

Incorrectly Boot Fitting Position [C]

External Shift Mechanism Removal

• Drain the engine oil (see Engine Oil Change in the Peri-

odic Maintenance chapter).

• Remove the shift lever link bolt [A] and pull the lever link

off the shift shaft end.

• Remove the clutch (see Clutch Removal in the Clutch

chapter).

• Move the shift mechanism arm [A] and over shift limiter

[B] out of their positions on the end of the shift drum [C],

and pull out the shift shaft [D] with the arm, pawl spring

[E] and return spring [F].

External Shift Mechanism Installation

• Check that the return spring [A] and pawl spring [B] are

properly fitted on the mechanism, install the external shift

mechanism, and place the shift mechanism arm [C] and

over shift limiter [D] on the shift drum pins.

• Add the engine oil (see Lubrication System in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter).

9-26 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Transmission

• Be sure the sealing lip of the rubber boot [A] fits into the

groove of the ball joint after installing the shift lever link.

○Correctly Boot Fitting Position [A]

○Incorrectly Boot Position [B]

• Align the mark [A] on the shift shaft with the mark [B] on

the shift lever link.

• Position the shift lever [C] as shown.

Approx. 15° [D]

External Shift Mechanism Inspection

• Examine the shift shaft for any damage.

If the shift shaft [A] is bent, straighten or replace it.

If the splines [B] are damaged, replace the shaft.

If the return spring [C] or pawl spring [D] is broken or dis-

torted, replace them.

If the shift mechanism arm [E] or over shift limiter [F] is

distorted, replace the shift shaft.

• Check the return spring pin is not loose.

If it is loose, unscrew it and apply a non-permanent lock-

ing agent to the threads, and tighten it.

Torque - External Shift Mechanism Return Spring Pin: 19.6

N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 14.5 ft·lb)

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-27

Transmission

• Visually inspect the shift drum pins [A], pin holder [B] and

pin plate [C].

If they are badly worn or if they show any damage, replace

them.

Transmission Removal

• Split the crankcase (see Crankcase Splitting).

• Remove the drive shaft [A] and output shaft [B].

Transmission Installation

• With a high flash-point solvent, clean off the outer cir-

cumferences of the transmission ball bearings and needle

bearing housings, and wipe dry.

• Check to see that the set rings [A] and set pins [B] are

in place in the transmission bearing housings clean with

compressed air.

• Install the drive shaft and output shaft into the upper

crankcase half.

• Apply engine oil to the sliding surfaces of the gears and

bearings.

○The bearing set pins and rings must match properly with

the holes or grooves in the bearing outer races. When

they are properly matched, there is no clearance between

the crankcase [A] and the bearing outer races [B].

• Assemble the crankcase.

Transmission Shaft Disassembly

• Remove the transmission shafts (see Transmission Shaft

Removal).

• Remove the circlips, disassemble the transmission

shafts.

Special Tool - Outside Circlip Pliers: 57001-144

• The 5th gear [A] on the output shaft has three steel balls

assembled into it for the positive neutral finder mecha-

nism. Remove the 5th gear.

○Set the output shaft in a vertical position holding the 3rd

gear [C].

○Spin the 5th gear quickly [B] and pull it off upward.

9-28 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Transmission

• Remove the ball bearing [A] from each shafts.

Special Tools - Bearing Puller: 57001-135 [B]

Bearing Puller Adapter: 57001-317 [C]

• Discard the bearing.

Transmission Shaft Assembly

• Install the ball bearing on the drive shaft with the groove

toward the clutch side.

• Install the gear bushing [A] on the shafts with their oil

holes [B] aligned.

• The drive shaft gears can be recognized by size: the gear

with the smallest diameter is 1st gear, and the largest one

is 6th gear. Be sure that all parts are put back in the cor-

rect sequence and all circlips and washers are properly in

place.

• The output shaft gears can be recognized by size: the

gear with the largest diameter is 1st gear, and the small-

est one is 6th gear. Be sure that all parts are put back

in the correct sequence and all circlips and washers are

properly in place.

• Fit the steel balls into the 5th gear holes in the output shaft

as shown.

View A - A’ (see CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-33)

5th Gear [A]

Output Shaft [B]

Steel Balls [C]

Oil Hole [D]

NOTICE

Do not apply grease to the steel balls to hold them

in place. This will cause the positive neutral finder

mechanism to malfunction.

○Check the ball-locking effect that the 5th gear does not

come out of the output shaft when moving it up and down

by hand.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-29

Transmission

• Replace any circlip that were removed with new ones.

• Install the circlips [A] so that opening [B] is aligned with a

spline groove [C].

• Check that each gear spins or slides freely on the trans-

mission shafts without binding after assembly.

Shift Drum and Fork Removal

• Split the crankcase (see Crankcase Splitting).

• Remove the neutral positioning bolt [A] and take off

the washer [B], spring [C] and pin [D] from the upper

crankcase half [E].

• Remove the shift drum bearing holder bolts [A] and take

the holder plate [D] out of the shift drum [B] and shift rod

[C].

• Pull the shift rods [A] off the right side of the upper

crankcase half, and take off the drive shaft shift fork [B]

and the output shaft shift forks [C].

• Pull out the shift drum [A] about half of it, and remove the

circlip [B] and the operating plate [C].

• Pull out the shift drum fully from the upper crankcase.

9-30 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Transmission

Shift Drum and Fork Installation

• Set the transmission gear in the neutral position.

• Insert the shift drum into the upper crankcase half, and

install the operating plate pin [A], operating plate [B] and

circlip [C].

NOTE

○When installing the operating plate the projection [D]

faces toward the outside.

• Apply a little engine oil to the shift rods and shift fork fin-

gers.

• Insert the shift rods [D] running them through the shift

forks, fitting each shift fork guide pin into the shift drum

grooves.

○Position the one with shortest ear [A] on the drive shaft

and place the guide pin in the center groove in the shift

drum [B].

○The two forks [C] on the output shaft are identical.

• Install the shift drum bearing holder plate [A].

○Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of

the shift drum bearing holder bolts [B], and tighten them

with the specified torque.

Torque - Shift Drum Bearing Holder Bolts:

12 N·m (1.2

kgf·m, 104 in·lb)

• Install the neutral positioning bolt with the specified torque

to the upper crankcase.

Torque - Shift Drum Positioning Bolt: 24.5 N·m (2.5 kgf·m,

18 ft·lb)

Shift Drum Disassembly

• Remove the shift drum (see Shift Drum Removal).

• When holding the shift drum with a vise, remove the shift

drum pin plate bolt.

Shift Drum Assembly

• Be sure to install the dowel pin [F].

• The shift drum pins [C] are identical.

• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of

the shift drum pin plate bolt [A], and tighten it.

Torque - Shift Drum Pin Plate Bolt: 9.0 N·m (0.9 kgf·m, 80

in·lb)

Shift Drum Pin Plate [B]

Shift Drum Bearing Holder [D]

Shift Drum Bearing [E]

Shift Drum [G]

Operating Plate Pin [H]

Operating Plate [I]

Circlip [J]

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-31

Transmission

Gear Backlash Inspection

• Split the crankcase leaving the transmission in place.

• Set a dial gauge against the teeth on one gear, and move

the gear back and forth [A] while holding the other gear

steady [B]. The difference between the highest and the

lowest gauge readings is the amount of backlash.

Replace both gears if the amount of backlash exceeds

the service limit.

Gear Backlash

Standard:

0 ∼ 0.17 mm (0 ∼ 0.0067 in.)

Service Limit: 0.25 mm (0.010 in.)

Shift Fork Bending Inspection

• Visually inspect the shift forks, and replace any fork that is

bent. A bent fork could cause difficulty in shifting, or allow

the transmission to jump out of gear when under power.

90° [A]

Shift Fork/Gear Groove Wear Inspection

• Measure the thickness of the shift fork ears [A], and mea-

sure the width [B] of the gear grooves.

If the thickness of a shift fork ear is less than the service

limit, the shift fork must be replaced.

Shift Fork Ear Thickness

Standard:

4.9 ∼ 5.0 mm (0.1929 ∼ 0.1969 in.)

Service Limit: 4.8 mm (0.189 in.)

If the gear groove is worn over the service limit, the gear

must be replaced.

Gear Groove Width

Standard:

5.05 ∼ 5.15 mm (0.1988 ∼ 0.2028 in.)

Service Limit:

5.3 mm (0.209 in.)

Shift Fork Guide Pin/Drum Groove Wear

Inspection

• Measure the diameter of each shift fork guide pin [A], and

measure the width [B] of each shift drum groove.

If the guide pin on any shift fork is less than the service

limit, the fork must be replaced.

Shift Fork Guide Pin Diameter

Standard:

5.9 ∼ 6.0 mm (0.2323 ∼ 0.2362 in.)

Service Limit: 5.8 mm (0.228 in.)

If any shift drum groove is worn over the service limit, the

drum must be replaced.

Shift Drum Groove Width

Standard:

6.05 ∼ 6.20 mm (0.2382 ∼ 0.2441 in.)

Service Limit:

6.3 mm (0.248 in.)

9-32 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Transmission

Gear Dog and Gear Dog Hole Damage Inspection

• Visually inspect the gear dogs [A] and gear dog holes [B].

Replace any damaged gears or gears with excessively

worn dogs or dog holes.

Ball and Needle Bearing Wear Inspection

• Check the following ball bearings: right hand drive shaft,

left hand output shaft, and right hand shift drum.

○Since the ball bearings are made to extremely close toler-

ances, the wear must be judged by feel rather than mea-

surement. Clean each bearing in a high flash-point sol-

vent, dry it (do not spin the bearing while it is dry), and oil

it with engine oil.

○Spin [A] the bearing by hand to check its condition.

If the bearing is noisy, does not spin smoothly, or has any

rough spots, replace it.

• Check the following needle bearing: left hand drive shaft,

and right hand output shaft.

○The rollers in a needle bearing normally wear very little,

and wear is difficult to measure. Instead of measuring,

inspect the bearing for abrasion, color change, or other

damage.

If there is any doubt as to the condition of a needle bear-

ing, replace it.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-33

Transmission

1. 1st Gear

10. Washer

2. 2nd Gear

11. Thrust Washer

3. 3rd Gear

12. Needle Bearing

4. 4th Gear

13. Ball Bearing

5. 5th Gear

14. Collar

6. 6th (Top) Gear

15. Bearing Outer Race

7. Circlip

16. Steel Ball

8. Circlip

17. Drive Shaft

9. Toothed Washer

18. Output Shaft

10-2 WHEELS/TIRES

Exploded View

10-4 WHEELS/TIRES

Specifications

Item

Standard

Service Limit

Wheels (Rims)

Rim Runout:

Axial

TIR 0.5 mm (0.02 in.) or less

TIR 1.0 mm (0.04 in.)

Radial

TIR 0.8 mm (0.03 in.) or less

TIR 1.0 mm (0.04 in.)

Axle Runout/100 mm (3.94 in.)

TIR 0.1 mm (0.004 in.) or less

TIR 0.2 mm (0.008 in.)

Wheel Balance

10 g (0.35 oz.) or less

- - -

Balance Weights

10 g (0.35 oz.), 20 g (0.71 oz.), 30 g

- - -

(1.06 oz.)

Rim Size:

Front

17 M/C × MT2.75

- - -

Rear

17 M/C × MT3.50

- - -

Tires

Air Pressure (when Cold):

Front

Up to 170 kg (375 lb) load: 200 kPa

- - -

(2.00 kgf/cm², 28 psi)

Rear

Up to 170 kg (375 lb) load: 225 kPa

- - -

(2.25 kgf/cm², 32 psi)

Tread Depth:

Front:

BRIDGESTONE

4.6 mm (0.181 in.)

1 mm (0.04 in.)

DUNLOP

4.5 mm (0.177 in.)

IRC

4.2 mm (0.165 in.)

Rear:

BRIDGESTONE

7.0 mm (0.276 in.)

Up to 130 km/h (80 mph):

2 mm (0.08 in.)

DUNLOP

7.4 mm (0.291 in.)

Over 130 km/h (80 mph):

3 mm (0.12 in.)

IRC

6.5 mm (0.255 in.)

Standard Tires:

Make, Type

Size

Front

BRIDGESTONE BATTLAX BT45F

110/70 17 M/C (54 H)

DUNLOP GT 501FG T/L

IRC RX-01F

110/70 17 M/C (54 S)

Rear

BRIDGESTONE BATTLAX BT45R

130/70 17 M/C (62 H)

DUNLOP GT501 T/L

IRC RX-01R

130/70 17 M/C (62 S)

WARNING

Some replacement tires may adversely affect handling and cause an accident resulting in

serious injury or death. To ensure proper handling and stability, use only the recommended

standard tires for replacement, inflated to the standard pressure.

WHEELS/TIRES 10-5

Special Tools

Inside Circlip Pliers:

Bearing Driver Set:

57001-143

57001-1129

Rim Protector:

Bearing Remover Shaft,

9:

57001-1063

57001-1265

Bead Breaker Assembly:

Bearing Remover Head,

15 ×

17:

57001-1072

57001-1267

10-6 WHEELS/TIRES

Wheels (Rims)

Front Wheel Removal

• Remove:

Speedometer Cable Lower End [A]

Axle Nut Cotter Pin [B]

Axle (Loosen) [C]

Front Caliper Mounting Bolts [D]

• Using a jack, raise the front wheel off the ground.

• Pull the axle and remove the front wheel.

NOTICE

Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc

facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.

Place blocks under the wheel so that the disc does

not touch the ground.

Front Wheel Installation

• Apply a high-temperature grease to the grease seal lips.

• Install the speedometer gear housing to the front wheel.

• Install the front wheel so that the speedometer gear hous-

ing stop [A] fit into the fork leg stops [B].

• Install the speedometer cable so that the drive notch [B]

of it fits into the projection [A] of the speedometer gear in

the housing.

• Tighten the front axle nut with the specified torque.

Torque - Front Axle Nut: 88 N·m (9.0 kgf·m, 65 ft·lb)

WHEELS/TIRES 10-7

Wheels (Rims)

• Check the front brake effectiveness (see Brake Operation

Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

WARNING

After servicing, it takes several applications of the

brake lever before the brake pads contact the disc,

which could result in increased stopping distance

and cause an accident resulting in injury or death.

Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm

brake lever is obtained by pumping the lever until

the pads are against the disc.

Rear Wheel Removal

• Remove:

Axle Nut Cotter Pin [A]

Axle Nut [B] and Washer [C]

Chain Locknuts (Loosen) [D] and Adjusting Nuts [E]

Axle [F]

Alignment Indicators [G]

• Remove:

Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts [A]

Rear Caliper [B]

• Raise the rear wheel off the ground with the stand.

• Free the drive chain from the rear sprocket, and remove

the rear wheel.

NOTICE

Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc

facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.

Place blocks under the wheel so that the disc does

not touch the ground.

Rear Wheel Installation

• Apply a high temperature grease to the grease seal lips

and coupling, wheel sliding portions.

10-8 WHEELS/TIRES

Wheels (Rims)

• Fit the swingarm stop [A] into the caliper holder stops [B].

• Install:

Alignment Indicators

Axle

Chain Adjusting Nuts and Locknuts

Axle Nut and Washer

Axle Nut Cotter Pin

Torque - Rear Axle Nut: 98 N·m (10.0 kgf·m, 72 ft·lb)

NOTE

○Insert the axle from the right side of the wheel, and

tighten the axle nut.

• Install a new cotter pin.

NOTE

○When inserting the cotter pin, if the slots in the nut do

not align with the cotter pin hole in the axle, tighten the

nut clockwise [B] up to next alignment.

○It should be within 30 degrees.

○Loosen once and tighten again when the slot goes past

the nearest hole.

• Bend the cotter pin [A] over the nut.

• Adjust the drive chain slack (see Drive Chain Slack Ad-

justment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

• Check the rear brake (see Brake Operation Inspection in

the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

WARNING

After servicing, it takes several applications of the

brake pedal before the brake pads contact the disc,

which could result in increased stopping distance

and cause an accident resulting in injury or death.

Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm

brake pedal is obtained by pumping the pedal until

the pads are against the disc.

WHEELS/TIRES 10-9

Wheels (Rims)

Wheel Inspection

• Raise the front/rear wheel off the ground.

• Spin the wheel lightly, and check for roughness or binding.

If the roughness or binding is found, replace the hub bear-

ings.

• Inspect the wheel for small cracks, dents, bending, or

warp.

If there is any damage to the wheel, replace the wheel.

• Measure the rim runout, radial [B] and axial [A], with a dial

gauge.

If the rim runout exceeds the service limit, check the hub

bearings.

If the problem is not due to the bearings, replace the

wheel.

Rim Runout (with tire installed)

Standard:

Axial

TIR 0.5 mm (0.02 in.) or less

Radial

TIR 0.8 mm (0.03 in.) or less

Service Limit:

Axial

TIR 1.0 mm (0.04 in.)

Radial

TIR 1.0 mm (0.04 in.)

WARNING

Damaged wheel parts may fail and cause an acci-

dent resulting in serious injury or death. Never at-

tempt to repair a damaged wheel part. If the wheel

part is damaged, it must be replaced with a new one.

Axle Inspection

• Remove the front and rear axles.

• Visually inspect the front and rear axle for damages.

If the axle is damaged or bent, replace it.

• Place the axle in V blocks that are 100 mm (3.94 in.) [A]

apart, and set a dial gauge [B] on the axle at a point

halfway between the blocks. Turn [C] the axle to mea-

sure the runout. The difference between the highest and

lowest dial readings is the amount of runout.

If the axle runout exceeds the service limit, replace the

axle.

Axle Runout/100 mm (3.94 in.)

Standard:

TIR 0.1 mm (0.004 in.) or less

Service Limit: TIR 0.2 mm (0.008 in.)

10-10 WHEELS/TIRES

Wheels (Rims)

Balance Inspection

• Remove the wheel.

• Support the wheel so that it can be spun freely.

• Spin the wheel lightly, and mark [A] the wheel at the top

when the wheel stops.

○Repeat this procedure several times. If the wheel stops

of its own accord in various positions, it is well balanced.

If the wheel always stops in one position, adjust the wheel

balance.

Balance Adjustment

• If the wheel always stops in one position, provisionally

attach a balance weight [A] on the rim at the marking using

adhesive tape.

• Rotate the wheel 1/4 turn [B], and see whether or not the

wheel stops in this position. If it does, the correct balance

weight is being used.

If the wheel rotates and the weight goes up, replace the

weight with the next heavier size. If the wheel rotates and

the weight goes down, replace the weight with the next

lighter size. Repeat these steps until the wheel remains

at rest after being rotated 1/4 turn.

• Rotate the wheel another 1/4 turn and then another 1/4

turn to see if the wheel is correctly balanced.

• Repeat the entire procedure as many times as necessary

to achieve correct wheel balance.

• Permanently install the balance weight.

Balance Weight Removal

• Insert a standard tip screwdrivers [A] [B] between the rib

[C] and weight [D] as shown.

• Pry the balance weight with two screwdrivers and remove

the balance weight.

• Discard the used balance weight.

NOTICE

Do not tap the screwdrivers. The rim could be dam-

aged.

Balance Weight Installation

• Check if the weight portion has any play on the blade [A]

and clip [B].

If it does, discard it.

WARNING

Unbalanced wheels can create an unsafe riding

condition. If the balance weight has any play on

the rib of the rim, the blade and/or clip have been

stretched. Replace the loose balance weight. Do

not reuse used balance weight.

WHEELS/TIRES 10-11

Wheels (Rims)

Balance Weight

Part Number

Weight

41075-0007

10 g (0.35 oz.)

41075-0008

20 g (0.71 oz.)

41075-0009

30 g (1.06 oz.)

NOTE

○Balance weights are available from Kawasaki dealers in

10, 20, and 30 gram (0.35 oz., 0.71 oz., and 1.06 oz.)

sizes. An imbalance of less than 10 grams (0.35 oz.)

will not usually affect running stability.

○Do not use four or more balance weight (more than 90

gram). If the wheel requires an excess balance weight,

disassemble the wheel to find the cause.

• Slip the balance weight [A] on to the rib [B], by pushing or

lightly hammering [C] the clip [D].

Left Side [E]

Right Side [F]

• Be sure to install the balance weight.

○Check that the blade [A] and clip [B] are fully seated on

the rim [C] and that the clip is hooked over the rib [D].

Left Side [E]

Right Side [F]

10-12 WHEELS/TIRES

Tires

Air Pressure Inspection/Adjustment

• Refer to Air Pressure Inspection in the Periodic Mainte-

nance chapter (see Air Pressure Inspection in the Peri-

odic Maintenance chapter).

Tire Inspection

• Refer to Wheels/Tires Damage Inspection in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter (see Wheels/Tires Damage Inspec-

tion in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Tire Removal

• Remove:

Wheel (see Wheel Removal)

Disc

Valve Core (let out the air)

• To maintain wheel balance, mark the air valve position on

the tire with chalk so that the tire can be reinstalled in the

same position.

Chalk Mark or Yellow Mark [A]

Air Valve [B]

Align [C]

• Lubricate the tire beads and rim flanges on both sides with

a soap and water solution or rubber lubricant. This helps

the tire beads slip off the rim flanges.

NOTICE

Never lubricate with engine oil or petroleum distil-

lates because they will deteriorate the tire.

• Break the beads away from both sides of the rim with the

bead breaker [A].

Special Tool - Bead Breaker Assembly: 57001-1072

• Step on the side of the tire opposite the valve stem and

start prying the tire off the rim near the air valve with tire

irons.

Special Tools - Rim Protector: 57001-1063 [A]

Bead Breaker Assembly: 57001-1072 [B]

WHEELS/TIRES 10-13

Tires

NOTE

○For easier removal, always position the tire bead oppo-

site the valve stem in the rim well, and pry the tire bead

a little at a time.

NOTICE

Be careful not to scratch the inner liner and air seal-

ing surfaces of the rim and tire with the tire irons. A

scratched inner liner [B] or sealing surface [A] may

allow air to leak.

• After removing the bead on one side, remove the other

bead from the same manner.

• Remove the tire from the rim.

Tire Installation

WARNING

Some replacement tires may adversely affect han-

dling and cause an accident resulting in serious in-

jury or death. To ensure proper handling and sta-

bility, use only the recommended standard tires for

replacement, inflated to the standard pressure.

• Inspect the rim and tire, and replace them if necessary.

• Clean the sealing surfaces of the rim and tire, and smooth

the sealing surfaces of the rim with a fine emery cloth if

necessary.

• Remove the air valve and discard it.

NOTICE

Replace the air valve whenever the tire is replaced.

Do not reuse the air valve.

• Install a new valve in the rim.

○Remove the valve cap, lubricate the stem seal [A] with a

soap and water solution or rubber lubricant, and pull [B]

the valve stem through the rim from the inside out until it

snaps into place.

NOTICE

Do not use engine oil or petroleum distillates to lu-

bricate the stem because they will deteriorate the

rubber.

○The air valve is shown in the figure.

[A] Valve Cap

[B] Valve Core

[C] Stem Seal

[D] Valve Stem

[E] Valve Seat

[F] Valve Opened

10-14 WHEELS/TIRES

Tires

• Apply a soap and water solution, or rubber lubricant to the

rim flange and tire beads.

• Check the tire rotation mark on the front and rear tires and

install them on the rim accordingly.

Tire Rotation Mark [A]

Rotating Direction [B]

• Position the tire on the rim so that the air valve [A] align

with the tire balance mark [B] (the chalk mark made during

removal, or the yellow paint mark on a new tire).

• By hand, slide as much as possible of the lower side of the

tire bead over the rim flange, starting at the side opposite

the valve stem.

• Fit the rim protectors and tire irons to install the remaining

part of the tire bead which cannot be installed by hand.

For easy tire installation, position the parts of the bead

which is already over the rim flange in the rim well.

NOTE

○To prevent rim damage, be sure to place the rim protec-

tors at any place the tire irons are applied.

• Install the other side of the tire bead onto the rim in the

same manner.

• Lubricate the tire beads and rim flanges with a soap and

water solution or rubber lubricant to help seat the tire

beads in the sealing surfaces of the rim while inflating the

tire.

• Center the rim in the tire beads, and inflate the tire with

compressed air until the tire beads seat in the sealing

surfaces.

WARNING

Overinflating a tire can cause it to explode, causing

serious injury or death. Be sure to install the valve

core whenever inflating the tire, and do not inflate

the tire to more than 400 kPa (4.0 kgf/cm², 57 psi).

WHEELS/TIRES 10-15

Tires

• Check to see that the rim lines [A] on both sides of the tire

sidewalls are parallel with the rim flanges.

If the rim flanges and tire sidewall rim lines are not parallel,

remove the valve core.

• Lubricate the rim flanges and tire beads.

• Install the valve core and inflate the tire again.

• After the tire beads seat in the rim flanges, check for air

leakage.

○Inflate the tire slightly above standard inflation.

○Use a soap and water solution or submerge the tire, and

check for bubbles that would indicate leakage.

• Adjust the air pressure to the specified pressure (see Air

Pressure Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chap-

ter).

• Install the brake disc(s) so that the marked side faces out

(see Brake Disc Installation in the Brakes chapter).

• Adjust the wheel balance (see Balance Adjustment).

Tire Repair

Currently two types of repair for tubeless tires have come

into wide use. One type is called a temporary (external) re-

pair which can be carried out without removing the tire from

the rim, and the other type is called permanent (internal)

repair which requires tire removal. It is generally under-

stood that higher running durability is obtained by perma-

nent (internal) repairs than by temporary (external) ones.

Also, permanent (internal) repairs have the advantage of

permitting a thorough examination for secondary damage

not visible from external inspection of the tire. For these

reasons, Kawasaki does not recommend temporary (exter-

nal) repair. Only appropriate permanent (internal) repairs

are recommended. Repair methods may vary slightly from

make to make. Follow the repair methods indicated by the

manufacturer of the repair tools and materials so that safe

results can be obtained.

10-16 WHEELS/TIRES

Hub Bearing

Hub Bearing Removal

• Remove the wheel, and take out the following.

Collars

Speedometer Gear Drive (out of front hub)

Coupling (out of rear hub)

Grease Seals

Circlips [A]

Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143 [B]

• Use the bearing remover to remove the hub bearings [A].

NOTICE

Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc

facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.

Place blocks under the wheel so that the disc does

not touch the ground.

Special Tools - Bearing Remover Shaft,

9: 57001-1265 [B]

Bearing Remover Head,

15 ×

17: 57001

-1267 [C]

Hub Bearing Installation

• Before installing the hub bearings, blow any dirt or foreign

particles out of the hub with compressed air to prevent

contamination of the bearings.

• Replace the bearings with new ones.

NOTE

○Install the bearings so that the marked side faces out.

• Install the bearings by using the bearing driver set which

does not contact the bearing inner race.

• Press in each bearing [A] until they are bottomed.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129 [B]

• Replace the circlips with new ones.

Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143

• Replace the grease seals with new ones.

• Press in the grease seals [A] so that the seal surface is

flush [B] with the end of the hole.

○Apply high-temperature grease to the grease seal lips.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129 [C]

WHEELS/TIRES 10-17

Hub Bearing

Hub Bearing Inspection

Since the hub bearings are made to extremely close tol-

erances, the clearance can not normally be measured.

NOTE

○Do not remove any bearings for inspection. If any bear-

ings are removed, they will need to be replaced with

new ones.

• Turn each bearing in the hub back and forth [A] while

checking for plays, roughness, or binding.

If bearing play, roughness, or binding is found, replace

the bearing.

• Examine the bearing seal [B] for tears or leakage.

If the seal is torn or is leaking, replace the bearing.

Hub Bearing Lubrication

NOTE

○Since the hub bearings are packed with grease and

sealed, lubrication is not required.

10-18 WHEELS/TIRES

Speedometer Gear Housing

Speedometer Gear Housing Disassembly

• Pull the speedometer gear housing [A] off the front wheel.

• Pull out the grease seal [C] using a hook.

• Pull out the speedometer gear [B].

• If the speedometer cable housing [F] or speedometer pin-

ion [E] needs to be removed, work in accordance with fol-

lowing procedures.

Pin [D]

• First drill the housing [A] through the spring pin [B] using

a 1.0 ∼ 1.5 mm drill bit [C].

• Drill the housing from the under side to the pin end [B]

using 3.0 ∼ 3.5 mm drill bit [A].

• Using a 3 mm (0.12 in.) rod [A], tap out the pin [B], and

then pull out the speedometer cable bushing, speedome-

ter pinion and washers.

NOTE

○It is recommended that the assembly be replaced rather

than attempting to repair the components.

Speedometer Gear Housing Assembly

• When assembling the speedometer gear housing, be

careful of the following items.

○After inserting a new pin, stake the housing hole to secure

the pin in place.

○Replace the grease seal with a new one. Apply a little

grease to the seal. Install it using a press or a suitable

driver so that the face of the seal is level with the surface

of the housing.

○Regrease the speedometer gear.

○Install the speedometer gear housing so that it fits in the

speedometer gear drive notches.

WHEELS/TIRES 10-19

Speedometer Gear Housing

Speedometer Gear Housing Lubrication

• Clean and grease [A] the speedometer gear housing [B].

11-2 FINAL DRIVE

Exploded View

FINAL DRIVE 11-5

Special Tool

Bearing Driver Set:

57001-1129

11-6 FINAL DRIVE

Drive Chain

Drive Chain Slack Inspection

• Refer to Drive Chain Slack Inspection in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter (see Drive Chain Slack Inspection

in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Drive Chain Slack Adjustment

• Refer to Drive Chain Slack Inspection in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter (see Drive Chain Slack Inspection

in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Wheel Alignment Inspection/Adjustment

• Refer to Wheel Alignment Inspection in the Periodic Main-

tenance chapter (see Wheel Alignment Inspection in the

Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Drive Chain Wear Inspection

• Refer to Drive Chain Wear Inspection in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter (see Drive Chain Wear Inspection

in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Drive Chain Lubrication

• Refer to Drive Chain Lubrication Condition in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter (see Drive Chain Lubrication Con-

dition in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Drive Chain Removal

• Remove:

Engine Sprocket Cover

Drive Chain Cover

Rear Shock Absorber (see Rear Shock Absorber Re-

moval in the Suspension chapter)

Swingarm Pivot Shaft (see Swingarm Removal in the

Suspension chapter)

• Flatten out the bended washer [A].

• Remove the engine sprocket nut [B] and washer.

NOTE

○When loosening the engine sprocket nut, hold the rear

brake on.

FINAL DRIVE 11-7

Drive Chain

• Raise the rear wheel off the ground.

• Remove the axle cotter pin, and loosen the rear axle nut.

• Loosen the both chain adjuster locknut to loosen the drive

chain.

• Remove the drive chain from the rear sprocket toward the

right.

• Pull the engine sprocket [A] with drive chain [B] off the

output shaft [C].

• Disengage the drive chain from the engine sprocket.

NOTE

○The swingarm may be moved with the rear wheel left

installed on it.

Drive Chain Installation

• Replace the sprocket washer and axle cotter pin.

• Install the engine sprocket onto the shaft the protruding

side [A] of it faces in.

• Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to the threads of

the output shaft and the seating surface of the engine

sprocket nut.

• After torquing the engine sprocket nut, bend the one side

of the washer over the nut.

NOTE

○Tighten the nut while applying the rear brake.

Torque - Engine Sprocket Nut: 127 N·m (13 kgf·m, 94 ft·lb)

• Adjust the drive chain slack after installing the sprocket

(see Drive Chain Slack Adjustment in the Periodic Main-

tenance chapter).

• Replace the rear shook absorber mounting nuts with new

one.

• Install:

Swingarm (see Swingarm Installation in the Suspension

chapter)

Rear Shock Absorber (see Rear Shock Absorber Instal-

lation in the Suspension chapter)

Drive Chain Cover

Engine Sprocket Cover

Torque - Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Nuts: 59 N·m (6.0

kgf·m, 44 ft·lb)

Swingarm Pivot Nut: 98 N·m (10 kgf·m, 72 ft·lb)

• Adjust the drive chain slack after installing the chain (see

Drive Chain Slack Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance

chapter).

11-8 FINAL DRIVE

Drive Chain

Drive Chain Replacement

NOTICE

For safety, if the drive chain shall be replaced, re-

place it using a recommended tool.

Recommended Tool

Type:

EX250J8 ∼ JA

EK Joint Tool #50

EX250JB ∼ JC

DID Chain Joint “ZJ”

Brand:

EX250J8 ∼ JA

ENUMA

EX250JB ∼ JC

DAIDO

Body [A]

Handlebar [B]

Cutting and Riveting Pin [C]

For Cutting [D]

For Riveting [E]

Plate Holder (A) [F]

Plate Holder (B) [G]

Gauge [H]

• Remove:

Chain Cover (see Drive Chain Removal)

Engine Sprocket Cover (see Engine Sprocket Removal)

• Grind [A] the pin head to make it flat.

• Set the cutting and rivetting pin [B] as shown.

• Screw the pin holder until it touches the link pin.

• Be sure that the cutting pin hits center of the link pin.

FINAL DRIVE 11-9

Drive Chain

• Screw the handlebar [A] into the body.

• Turn the pin holder with the wrench [B] clockwise to ex-

tract the link pin.

• Replace the link pin, link plate and grease seals.

• Apply grease to the link pins [A] and grease the seals [B]

[C].

• Engage the drive chain on the engine and rear sprockets.

• Insert the link pins in the drive chain ends.

• Install the grease seals [C].

• Install the link plate [D] so that the mark faces out.

• Push the link plate by hand or plier to fix it.

• Be sure to set the grease seals correctly.

• Set the plate holder (A) [A] and plate holder (B) [B] on the

body.

• Fit the plate holder (A) to the link plate.

• Turn the pin holder by hand until the plate holder (B)

touches the other link plate.

• Turn the pin holder by a wrench clockwise until two pins

of link come into groove of the plate holder (A).

• Take off the plate holder.

11-10 FINAL DRIVE

Drive Chain

• Set the plate holder (B) [A] and the cutting and rivetting

pin [B] as shown.

• Turn the pin holder until the rivetting pin touches the link

pin.

• Turn the wrench clockwise until the tip of rivetting pin con-

tact with the link pin.

• Rivet it.

• Repeat the same procedure for the other link pin.

• After staking, check the staked area of the link pin for

cracks.

• Measure the outside diameter [A] of the link pin and link

plates width [B].

Link Pin Outside Diameter

Standard:

EX250J8 ∼ JA

5.3 ∼ 5.7 mm (0.21 ∼ 0.22 in.)

EX250JB ∼ JC

5.7 ∼ 6.0 mm (0.23 ∼ 0.24 in.)

Link Plates Outside Width

Standard:

EX250J8 ∼ JA

17.35 ∼ 17.50 mm (0.683 ∼ 0.689 in.)

EX250JB ∼ JC

17.25 ∼ 17.55 mm (0.679 ∼ 0.691 in.)

If the reading exceeds the specified length, cut and rejoin

the chain again.

• Check:

Movement of the Rollers

• Adjust the drive chain slack after installing the chain (see

Drive Chain Slack Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance

chapter).

FINAL DRIVE 11-11

Sprocket, Coupling

Engine Sprocket Removal

• Remove:

Shift Lever Link Bolt [A]

Shift Shaft [B]

Engine Sprocket Cover Bolts [C]

• Remove the engine sprocket cover [D].

• Flatten out the bended washer [A].

• Remove the engine sprocket nut [B] and washer.

NOTE

○When loosening the engine sprocket nut, hold the rear

brake on.

• Raise the rear wheel off the ground.

• Remove the axle cotter pin, and loosen the rear axle nut.

• Loosen the both chain adjuster locknut to loosen the drive

chain.

• Remove the drive chain from the rear sprocket toward the

right.

• Pull the engine sprocket [A] with drive chain [B] off the

output shaft [C].

• Disengage the drive chain from the engine sprocket.

Engine Sprocket Installation

• Replace the sprocket washer and axle cotter pin.

• Install the engine sprocket onto the shaft the protruding

side [A] of it faces in.

• Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to the threads of

the output shaft and the seating surface of the engine

sprocket nut.

• After torquing the engine sprocket nut, bend the one side

of the washer over the nut.

NOTE

○Tighten the nut while applying the rear brake.

Torque - Engine Sprocket Nut: 127 N·m (13 kgf·m, 94 ft·lb)

• Adjust the drive chain slack after installing the sprocket

(see Drive Chain Slack Adjustment in the Periodic Main-

tenance chapter).

• Install the new axle cotter pin, and bend the end of it

surely.

• Install the engine sprocket cover.

• Install the shift lever onto the shift shaft aligning the mark

which is marked before removing.

11-12 FINAL DRIVE

Sprocket, Coupling

Rear Sprocket Removal

• Remove the rear wheel (see Rear Wheel Removal in the

Wheels/Tires chapter).

NOTICE

Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc

facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.

Place blocks under the wheel so that the disc does

not touch the ground.

• Pull out the coupling collar from the left, and coupling

sleeve from the right.

• Remove the rear sprocket nuts [A].

• Remove the rear sprocket [B].

Rear Sprocket Installation

• Install the sprocket with the tooth number marking [A] out-

ward.

• Replace the rear sprocket nuts with the new ones.

• Install the rear sprocket nuts.

Torque - Rear Sprocket Nuts: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 44 ft·lb)

• Install the rear wheel (see Rear Wheel Installation in the

Wheels/Tires chapter).

Coupling Installation

• Grease the following and install the coupling.

Coupling Grease Seal [A]

Coupling Internal Surface [A]

Ball Bearing [A]

Coupling Bearing Removal

• Remove:

Coupling

Grease Seal

Bearing [A]

FINAL DRIVE 11-13

Sprocket, Coupling

• Remove the bearing [A] by tapping from the wheel side.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129 [B]

Coupling Bearing Installation

• Replace the bearing with a new one.

• Press in the bearing [A] until it is bottomed.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129 [B]

• Pack the bearing with high-temperature grease.

• Replace the grease seal with a new one.

• Press in the grease seal so that the seal surface is flush

with the end of the hole.

○Apply high-temperature grease to the grease seal lips.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129

Coupling Bearing Inspection

Since the coupling bearing is made to extremely close

tolerances, the clearance can not normally be measured.

NOTE

○It is not necessary to remove the coupling bearing for

inspection. If the bearing is removed, it will need to be

replaced with a new one.

• Turn the bearing in the coupling back and forth [A] while

checking for plays, roughness, or binding.

If the bearing play, roughness, or binding is found, replace

the bearing.

Coupling Bearing Lubrication

• Pack the bearing with high-temperature grease. Turn the

bearing around by hand a few times to make sure the

grease is distributed uniformly inside the bearing.

11-14 FINAL DRIVE

Sprocket, Coupling

Coupling Damper Inspection

• Remove the rear wheel coupling, and inspect the rubber

dampers [A].

• Replace the damper if it appears damaged or deterio-

rated.

Grease Seal Inspection and Lubrication

If the grease seals are examined without removing the

seals themselves, look for discoloration (indicating the rub-

ber has deteriorated), hardening, damage to the internal

ribbing, or other damage. If the seal or internal ribbing

has hardened, the clearance between the seal and the axle

sleeve will not be take up, which will allow dirt and moisture

to enter and reach the bearing. If in doubt as to its condition

and whenever the seal is removed for greasing the bearing,

the seal should be replace. The seals are generally dam-

aged upon removal.

Sprocket Wear Inspection

• Visually inspect the engine and rear sprocket teeth for

wear and damage.

If the teeth are worn as illustrated, replace the sprocket,

and inspect the drive chain wear (see Drive Chain Wear

Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

[A] Worn Tooth (Engine Sprocket)

[B] Worn Tooth (Rear Sprocket)

[C] Direction of Rotation

NOTE

○If a sprocket requires replacement, the chain is proba-

bly worn also. When replacing a sprocket, inspect the

chain.

Rear Sprocket Warp Inspection

• Raise the rear wheel off the ground with the stand so that

it will turn freely.

• Set a dial gauge [A] against the rear sprocket [B] near the

teeth as shown, and rotate [C] the rear wheel to measure

the sprocket runout (warp). The difference between the

highest and lowest dial gauge readings is the amount of

runout (warp).

If the runout exceeds the service limit, replace the rear

sprocket.

Rear Sprocket Warp

Standard:

TIR 0.4 mm (0.016 in.) or less

Service Limit: TIR 0.5 mm (0.02 in.)

12-2 BRAKES

Exploded View

BRAKES 12-3

Exploded View

Torque

No.

Fastener

Remarks

N·m

kgf·m

ft·lb

1

Brake Lever Pivot Bolt Locknut

5.9

0.6

52 in·lb

2

Bleed Valve

5.5

0.55

49 in·lb

3

Front Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts

8.8

0.9

78 in·lb

S

4

Brake Disc Mounting Bolts

27

2.8

20

L

5

Brake Hose Banjo Bolts

25

2.5

18

6

Front Caliper Mounting Bolts

25

2.5

18

7

Front Brake Light Switch Screw

1.0

0.1

9 in·lb

8

Brake Lever Pivot Bolt

1.0

0.1

9 in·lb

9

Front Reservoir Cap Screws

1.5

0.15

13 in·lb

B: Apply brake fluid.

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

R: Replacement parts

S: Follow the specific tightening sequence.

Si: Apply silicone grease.

12-4 BRAKES

Exploded View

BRAKES 12-5

Exploded View

Torque

No.

Fastener

Remarks

N·m

kgf·m

ft·lb

1

Reservoir Mounting Bolt

6.9

0.7

61 in·lb

2

Bleed Valve

5.5

0.55

49 in·lb

3

Brake Pedal Pivot Bolt

8.8

0.9

78 in·lb

L

4

Push Rod Locknut

18

1.8

13

5

Brake Disc Mounting Bolts

27

2.8

20

L

6

Brake Hose Banjo Bolts

25

2.5

18

7

Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts

25

2.5

18

8

Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts

25

2.5

18

B: Apply brake fluid.

G: Apply grease.

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

R: Replacement parts

Si: Apply silicone grease.

12-8 BRAKES

Brake Lever, Brake Pedal

Brake Pedal Position Inspection

• Check that the brake pedal [A] is in the correct position.

[B] Footpeg

Pedal Position

Standard: About 40 mm (1.6 in.) [C] below top of

footpeg

If it is incorrect, adjust the brake pedal position.

Brake Pedal Position Adjustment

NOTE

○Usually it is not necessary to adjust the pedal position,

but always adjust it when push rod locknut has been

loosened.

• Loosen the locknut [A] and up or down the clevis [B] by

turning the adjuster [C] to adjust the brake pedal position.

• Tighten the locknut with specified torque.

Torque - Push Rod Locknut: 18 N·m (1.8 kgf·m, 13 ft·lb)

NOTE

○If the pedal position cannot be adjusted by turning the

clevis [A], the brake pedal may be deformed or incor-

rectly installed.

○If the brake rod [B] protrusion is 3.5 ∼ 5.5 mm (0.14 ∼

0.22 in.) [C] below the nut, the pedal position will be

with in the standard range (about 40 mm (1.6 in.)).

• Check the brake pedal position, and readjust it if neces-

sary.

BRAKES 12-9

Calipers

Front Caliper Removal

• Loosen the banjo bolt [A] at the brake hose lower end,

and tighten it loosely.

• Unscrew the caliper mounting bolts [B], and detach the

caliper [C] from the disc.

NOTICE

Do not loosen the caliper assembly bolts. Take out

only the caliper mounting bolts for caliper removal.

Loosening the caliper assembly bolts will cause

brake fluid leakage.

• Unscrew the banjo bolt and remove the brake hose from

the caliper (see Brake Hose Removal/Installation).

NOTICE

Immediately wash away any brake fluid that spills.

NOTE

○If the caliper is to be disassembled after removal and if

compressed air is not available, disassemble the caliper

before the brake hose is removed (see Caliper Rubber

Parts Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance chap-

ter).

Rear Caliper Removal

• Loosen the banjo bolt [A] at the brake hose lower end,

and tighten it loosely.

• Unscrew the caliper mounting bolts [B], and detach the

caliper [C] from the disc.

• Unscrew the banjo bolt and remove the brake hose [D]

from the caliper (see Brake Hose Removal/Installation).

NOTICE

Immediately wash away any brake fluid that spills.

NOTE

○If the caliper is to be disassembled after removal and if

compressed air is not available, disassemble the caliper

before the brake hose is removed (see Caliper Rubber

Parts Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance chap-

ter).

Caliper Installation

• Install the caliper and brake hose lower end.

○Replace the washers on each side of hose fitting with new

ones.

• Tighten:

Torque - Front Caliper Mounting Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m,

18 ft·lb)

Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m,

18 ft·lb)

Brake Hose Banjo Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18

ft·lb)

12-10 BRAKES

Calipers

• Check the fluid level in the brake reservoirs.

• Bleed the brake line (see Brake Line Bleeding).

• Check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag,

and no fluid leakage.

WARNING

After servicing, it takes several applications of the

brake lever or pedal before the brake pads contact

the disc, which could result in increased stopping

distance and cause an accident resulting in injury

or death. Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until

a firm brake lever or pedal is obtained by pumping

the lever or pedal until the pads are against the disc.

Caliper Disassembly

• Refer to Caliper Rubber Parts Replacement in the Peri-

odic Maintenance chapter (see Caliper Rubber Parts Re-

placement in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Caliper Assembly

• Refer to Caliper Rubber Parts Replacement in the Peri-

odic Maintenance chapter (see Caliper Rubber Parts Re-

placement in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Caliper Fluid Seal Damage

The fluid seal (piston seal) [A] is placed around the pis-

ton to maintain clearance between the pad and the disc. If

the seal is in a poor condition, it could lead the pad to wear

excessively or the brake to drag, which may cause the tem-

perature of the discs or the brake fluid to increase.

• Replace the fluid seal if it exhibits any of the conditions

listed below.

○Brake fluid leakage around the pad.

○Brakes overheat.

○Considerable difference in inner and outer pad wear.

○Seal and piston are stuck together.

If the fluid seal is replaced, replace the dust seal [B] as

well. Also, replace all seals every other time the pads are

changed.

BRAKES 12-11

Calipers

Rear Caliper Dust Boot and Friction Boot Damage

• Check that the dust boot [A] and friction boot [B] are not

cracked, worn, swollen, or otherwise damaged.

If they show any damage, replace it.

Caliper Piston and Cylinder Damage Inspection

• Visually inspect the piston [A] and cylinder surfaces.

Replace the caliper if the cylinder and piston are badly

scores or rusty.

Fluid Seal [B]

Dust Seal [C]

Front Caliper [D]

Rear Caliper [E]

Dust Boot [F]

Caliper Holder Shaft Wear

The caliper body must slide smoothly on the caliper holder

shafts [G]. If the body does not slide smoothly, one pad

will wear more than the other, pad wear will increase, and

constant drag on the disc will raise brake and brake fluid

temperature.

• Check to see that the caliper holder shafts are not badly

worn or stepped, and that the rubber boots [H] are not

damaged.

If the rubber boot is damaged, replace the rubber boot. To

replace the rubber boot, remove the pads and the caliper

bracket.

If the caliper holder shaft is damage, replace the caliper

bracket.

12-12 BRAKES

Brake Pads

Brake Pad Removal

○The procedure to remove the front brake pad is as follows.

Removing the rear brake pad is the same as for the front

brake pad.

• Loosen the holder shaft [A].

• Remove the caliper (see Front/Rear Caliper Removal).

• Draw out the holder shaft.

• Remove the pads [B].

Brake Pad Installation

• Push the caliper pistons by hand as far as they will go.

• Install the pad on the piston side first, then install the other

pad.

• Install the anti-rattle spring [A] in its correct position.

WARNING

After servicing, it takes several applications of the

brake lever or pedal before the brake pads contact

the disc, which could result in increased stopping

distance and cause an accident resulting in injury

or death. Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until

a firm brake lever or pedal is obtained by pumping

the lever or pedal until the pads are against the disc.

Brake Pad Wear Inspection

• Refer to Brake Pad Wear Inspection in the Periodic Main-

tenance chapter (see Brake Pad Wear Inspection in the

Periodic Maintenance chapter).

BRAKES 12-13

Master Cylinder

Front Master Cylinder Removal

• Slide the dust cover [A], and remove the banjo bolt [B] to

disconnect the upper brake hose from the master cylinder

[C]. There are flat washers on each side of the hose fitting.

• Remove the front master cylinder clamp bolts [D], and

take off the master cylinder.

NOTICE

Immediately wash away any brake fluid that spills.

Front Master Cylinder Installation

• Install the front master cylinder so that the punch mark [A]

of the handlebar is aligned with the mating surface [B] of

the master cylinder clamp to level the reservoir.

• Install the master cylinder clamp [A] pointing with the ar-

row mark [B] upward.

• Tighten the upper clamp bolt [C] first, and then the lower

clamp bolt [D] with a specified torque. There will be a gap

[E] at the lower part of the clamp after tightening.

• Tighten the banjo bolt with a specified torque after in-

stalling a new flat washer on each side of the brake hose

fitting.

Torque - Front Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts: 8.8 N·m (0.9

kgf·m, 78 in·lb)

Brake Hose Banjo Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18

ft·lb)

• Bleed the brake line (see Brakes Line Bleeding).

• Check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag

and no brake fluid leakage.

WARNING

After servicing, it takes several applications of the

brake lever before the brake pads contact the disc,

which could result in increased stopping distance

and cause an accident resulting in injury or death.

Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm

brake lever is obtained by pumping the lever until

the pads are against the disc.

12-14 BRAKES

Master Cylinder

Rear Master Cylinder Removal

• Remove the cotter pin [A] and then pull the joint pin [B]

out of the push rod clevis [C] and brake pedal.

NOTE

○Pull off the joint pin while pressing down the brake

pedal.

• Slide the brake hose clamp [A] out of place (see Brake

Hose and Pipe Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance

chapter).

• Disconnect the brake hoses [B] from the brake hose con-

nector of the master cylinder [C], and temporarily secure

the end of the brake hose so some high place to keep fluid

loss to a minimum and immediately wipe up any brake

fluid that spills.

• Remove the master cylinder mounting bolts [D] and take

the master cylinder off the footpeg bracket.

• Remove the banjo bolt [E] to disconnect the brake hose

from the master cylinder and temporarily secure the end

of the brake hose to some high place to keep fluid loss to

a minimum. There are flat washers on each side of the

hose fitting.

NOTICE

Immediately wash away any brake fluid that spills.

Rear Master Cylinder Installation

• Tighten the banjo bolt with a specified torque after in-

stalling a new flat washer on each side of the brake hose

fitting. Be sure that the metal pipe is properly fitted into

the U-shaped notch in the master cylinder.

Torque - Brake Hose Banjo Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18

ft·lb)

• Tighten the rear master cylinder mounting bolts with a

specified torque.

Torque - Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5

kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)

• Connect the brake hose to the master cylinder and re-

place the brake hose clamp in place.

BRAKES 12-15

Master Cylinder

• Connect the push rod clevis to the brake pedal with the

joint pin.

• Install the cotter pin and bend the end of it securely.

• Bleed the brake line (see Brake Line Bleeding).

• Check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag

and no brake fluid leakage.

WARNING

After servicing, it takes several applications of the

brake pedal before the brake pads contact the disc,

which could result in increased stopping distance

and cause an accident resulting in injury or death.

Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm

brake pedal is obtained by pumping the pedal until

the pads are against the disc.

• Check the brake pedal position (see Brake Pedal Position

Inspection).

• Check the rear brake light switch (see Rear Brake Light

Switch Operation Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance

chapter).

Rear Brake Reservoir Removal

• Remove:

Reservoir mounting Bolt [A]

Brake Hose Clamp (Slide) [B]

Reservoir [C]

NOTICE

Immediately wash away any brake fluid that spills.

Rear Brake Reservoir Installation

• Install the clamp for the brake hose end.

• Fill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid and bleed the brake

line (see Brake Line Bleeding).

• Follow the procedure below to install the rear brake fluid

reservoir cap correctly.

○First, tighten the rear brake fluid reservoir cap [B] clock-

wise [C] by hand until the resistance is felt fully; then,

tighten the cap an additional 1/6 turn [D] while holding the

brake fluid reservoir [A] body.

Front Master Cylinder Disassembly

• Refer to Master Cylinder Rubber Parts Replacement in

the Periodic Maintenance chapter (see Master Cylinder

Rubber Parts Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance

chapter).

Rear Master Cylinder Disassembly

• Refer to Master Cylinder Rubber Parts Replacement in

the Periodic Maintenance chapter (see Master Cylinder

Rubber Parts Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance

chapter).

12-16 BRAKES

Master Cylinder

Master Cylinder Assembly

• Refer to Master Cylinder Rubber Parts Replacement in

the Periodic Maintenance chapter (see Master Cylinder

Rubber Parts Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance

chapter).

Master Cylinder Inspection

• Remove the master cylinders (see Front/Rear Master

Cylinder Removal).

• Disassemble the front and rear master cylinders.

• Check that there are no scratches, rust or pitting on the

inner wall [A] of each master cylinder and on the outside

of each piston [B].

If a master cylinder or piston shows any damage, replace

them.

• Inspect the primary cup [C] and secondary cup [D].

If a cup is worn, damaged softened (rotted), or swollen,

the piston assembly should be replaced to renew the

cups.

If fluid leakage is noted at the brake lever, the piston as-

sembly should be replaced to renew the cups.

Front Master Cylinder [J]

• Check the dust covers [E] for damage.

If they are damaged, replace them.

• Check the piston return springs [F] for any damage.

If the springs are damaged, replace them.

• Check that relief port [G] and supply port [H] are not

plugged.

If the relief port becomes plugged, the brake pads will

drag on the disc. Blow the ports clean with compressed

air.

Rear Master Cylinder [K]

BRAKES 12-17

Brake Disc

Brake Disc Removal

• Remove the wheel (see Front/Rear Wheel Removal in the

Wheels/Tires chapter).

• Unscrew the mounting bolts, and take off the disc.

Brake Disc Installation

• Install the brake disc on the wheel so that the marked side

[B] faces out.

• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of

the brake disc mounting bolts [A].

• Tighten:

Torque - Brake Disc Mounting Bolts: 27 N·m (2.8 kgf·m, 20

ft·lb)

Brake Disc Wear Inspection

• Measure the thickness of each disc [A] at the point where

it has worn the most.

If the disc has worn past the service limit, replace it.

Measuring Area [B]

Disc Thickness

Standard:

Front

4.3 ∼ 4.7 mm (0.17 ∼ 0.19 in.)

Rear

4.8 ∼ 5.2 mm (0.19 ∼ 0.20 in.)

Service Limit:

Front

4.0 mm (0.16 in.)

Rear

4.5 mm (0.18 in.)

Brake Disc Warp Inspection

• Jack up the motorcycle so that the wheel is off the ground

(see Front/Rear Removal in the Wheels/Tires chapter).

○For front disc inspection, turn the handlebar fully to one

side.

• Set up a dial gauge against the disc [A] as shown and

measure the disc runout, while turning [B] the wheel by

hand.

If the runout exceeds the service limit, replace the disc.

Disc Runout

Service Limit:

0.3 mm (0.01 in.) TIR

12-18 BRAKES

Brake Fluid

Brake Fluid Level Inspection

• Refer to Brake Fluid Level Inspection in the Periodic Main-

tenance chapter (see Brake Fluid Level Inspection in the

Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Brake Fluid Change

• Refer to Brake Fluid Change in the Periodic Maintenance

chapter (see Brake Fluid Change in the Periodic Mainte-

nance chapter).

Brake Line Bleeding

The brake fluid has a very low compression coefficient so

that almost all the movement of the brake lever or pedal

is transmitted directly to the caliper for braking action. Air,

however, is easily compressed. When air enters the brake

lines, brake lever or pedal movement will be partially used

in compressing the air. This will make the lever or pedal feel

spongy, and there will be a loss in braking power.

WARNING

Air in the brake lines diminish braking performance

and can cause an accident resulting in injury or

death. If the brake lever or pedal has a soft or

"spongy" feeling mushy when it is applied, there

might be air in the brake lines or the brake may be

defective. Do not operate the vehicle and service

the brake system immediately.

NOTE

○The procedure to bleed the front brake line is as follows.

Bleeding the rear brake line is the same as for the front

brake.

• Remove the reservoir cap [A] and diaphragm.

• Fill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid to the upper level

line in the reservoir.

• Slowly pump the brake lever several times until no air

bubbles can be seen rising up through the fluid from the

holes at the bottom of the reservoir.

○Bleed the air completely from the master cylinder by this

operation.

• Remove the rubber cap from the bleed valve [A] on the

caliper.

• Attach a clear plastic hose [B] to the bleed valve, and run

the other end of the hose into a container.

BRAKES 12-19

Brake Fluid

• Bleed the brake line and the caliper.

○Repeat this operation until no more air can be seen com-

ing out into the plastic hose.

1. Pump the brake lever until it becomes hard, and apply

the brake and hold it [A].

2. Quickly open and close [B] the bleed valve while hold-

ing the brake applied.

3. Release the brake [C].

NOTE

○The fluid level must be checked often during the bleed-

ing operation and replenished with fresh brake fluid as

necessary. If the fluid in the reservoir runs completely

out any time during bleeding, the bleeding operation

must be done over again from the beginning since air

will have entered the line.

○Tap the brake hose lightly from the caliper to the reser-

voir for more complete bleeding.

• Remove the clear plastic hose.

• Install the diaphragm and reservoir cap.

• Tighten:

Torque - Front Brake Reservoir Cap Screws: 1.5 N·m (0.15

kgf·m, 13 in·lb)

• Follow the procedure below to install the rear brake fluid

reservoir cap correctly.

○First, tighten the rear brake fluid reservoir cap [B] clock-

wise [C] by hand until slight resistance is felt indicating

that the cap is seated on the reservoir body, then tighten

the cap an additional 1/6 turn [D] while holding the brake

fluid reservoir body [A].

• Tighten the bleed valve, and install the rubber cap.

Torque - Bleed Valve: 5.5 N·m (0.55 kgf·m, 49 in·lb)

• Check the fluid level (see Brake Fluid Level Inspection in

the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

• After bleeding is done, check the brake for good braking

power, no brake drag, and no fluid leakage.

13-2 SUSPENSION

Exploded View

SUSPENSION 13-3

Exploded View

Torque

No.

Fastener

Remarks

N·m

kgf·m

ft·lb

1

Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper)

21

2.1

15

2

Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower)

30

3.1

22

3

Front Fork Bottom Allen Bolts

20

2.0

15

L

4

Rocker Arm Pivot Nut

59

6.0

44

R

5

Tie-Rod Nuts

59

6.0

44

R

6

Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Nuts

59

6.0

44

R

7

Swingarm Pivot Nut

98

10.0

72

8. EX250J8 Model

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

M: Apply molybdenum disulfide grease.

R: Replacement Parts

SUSPENSION 13-5

Special Tools

Inside Circlip Pliers:

Bearing Driver Set:

57001-143

57001-1129

Fork Cylinder Holder Handle:

Fork Outer Tube Weight:

57001-183

57001-1218

Fork Cylinder Holder Adapter:

Front Fork Oil Seal Driver:

57001-1057

57001-1219

Oil Seal & Bearing Remover:

Jack:

57001-1058

57001-1238

Steering Stem Nut Wrench:

Fork Oil Level Gauge:

57001-1100

57001-1290

SUSPENSION 13-7

Front Fork

Front Fork Removal

NOTE

○Remove the handlebar holder and remove the fork top

plug [A] beforehand if the fork leg is to be disassembled.

• To remove the top plug, remove the snap ring [B] pushing

down the top plug with the phillips tip screwdriver.

• Remove:

Front Brake Caliper (see Front Caliper Removal in the

Brakes chapter)

Front Wheel (see Front Wheel Removal in the

Wheels/Tires chapter)

Front Fender (see Front Fender Removal in the Frame

chapter)

Lower Fairings (see Lower Fairing Removal in the Frame

chapter)

• Remove the clamps and free the brake hose from the fork

leg.

• Loosen the front fork upper [A] and lower [B] clamp bolts.

• With a twisting motion, remove the fork leg down and out.

Front Fork Installation (each fork leg)

• Insert the fork leg until the inner tube top hit the handlebar

holder lightly, that is, the distance between the inner tube

top [A] and the steering stem head surface [B] is approx-

imate 12 mm (0.47 in.) [C].

Torque - Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper):

21 N·m (2.1

kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)

Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower):

30 N·m (3.1

kgf·m, 22 ft·lb)

• Route the brake hoses and clamp it to the right fork leg.

• Install:

Handlebar Holder

Front Brake Caliper (see Caliper Installation in the

Brakes chapter)

Front Wheel (see Front Wheel Installation in the

Wheels/Tires chapter)

Front Fender

Lower Fairings (see Lower Fairing Removal in the Frame

chapter)

Torque - Handlebar Holder Mounting Bolts:

25 N·m (2.5

kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)

13-8 SUSPENSION

Front Fork

Front Fork Oil Change

• Remove the front fork (see Front Fork Removal).

• Remove:

Snap Ring [A] (see Front Fork Removal)

Top Plug [B] with O-ring [C]

Collar [D]

Fork Spring Seat [E]

Fork Spring [F]

• Compress [A] the fork [B] upside down to draw out the oil

into the suitable container [C].

• Pour in the specified amount of oil.

Fork Oil

Viscosity:

SHOWA SS08 or equivalent

SAE 10W

Amount (Per Side):

When changing oil

310 mL (10.5 US oz.)

After disassembly

360 ±2.5 mL (12.2 ±0.08 US oz.)

and completely dry

NOTE

○Move the outer tube up and down a few times to remove

the air that is trapped in the fork oil in order to stabilize

the oil level.

• Hold the outer tube vertically in a vise and compress the

fork completely.

• Wait until the oil level stabilizes.

• Use the fork oil level gauge [A] to measure the distance

between the top of the inner tube to the oil level.

Special Tool - Fork Oil Level Gauge: 57001-1290

○Set the oil level gauge stopper [B] so that the distance [C]

from the bottom of the stopper to the lower end of the pipe

is the standard oil level distance.

○A correct measurement can not be obtained unless the

level gauge pipe is placed in the center of the inner tube.

Oil Level (fully compressed, without spring)

Standard:

108 ±2 mm (4.3 ±0.08 in.)

○Place the stopper of the level gauge at the top [D] of the

inner tube [E] and pull the handle slowly to draw out the

excess oil from fork into the gauge, thus attaining the stan-

dard level.

If not oil is drawn out, there is not enough oil in the fork.

Pour in some more oil and measure again.

SUSPENSION 13-9

Front Fork

• Repeat the same procedure for adjusting the other fork.

• Install the fork spring [A], fork spring seat [B] and collar

[C].

• Inspect the top plug O-ring and snap ring and replace

them with new ones.

• Install the front fork (see Front Fork Installation).

Front Fork Disassembly

• Remove the front fork (see Front Fork Removal).

• Remove:

Snap Ring [A] (see Front Fork Removal)

Top Plug [B] with O-ring [C]

Collar [D]

Fork Spring Seat [E]

Fork Spring [F]

• Hold the front fork leg horizontally in a vise [A].

• Stop the cylinder unit [B] from turning by using the special

tools.

• Unscrew the front fork bottom Allen bolt [C], and then take

out the bolt and gasket out of the bottom of the outer tube.

Special Tools - Fork Cylinder Holder Handle: 57001-183 [D]

Fork Cylinder Holder Adapter: 57001-1057

[E]

• Take the cylinder unit out of the inner tube.

• Remove the following from the top of the outer tube.

Dust Seal [A]

Retaining Ring [B]

• Use the fork outer tube weight [A] to separate the inner

tube from the outer tube. Holding the inner tube by hand

in a vertical position, pull down the outer tube several

times to pull out the inner tube.

Special Tool - Fork Outer Tube Weight: 57001-1218

• Take out the cylinder base from the outer tube bottom.

• Remove the inner guide bushing from the inner tube.

13-10 SUSPENSION

Front Fork

Front Fork Assembly

• Check the top plug O-ring and snap ring and replace them

with new ones if necessary.

• Replace the following parts with new ones.

Inner Guide Bushing [A]

Retaining Ring [B]

Oil Seal [C]

Outer Guide Bushing [D]

Bottom Allen Bolt Gasket [E]

• Put the cylinder unit [A] with the spring into the inner tube

[B] protruding from the inner tube, and install the cylinder

base [C] onto the bottom end of the cylinder unit.

○Install the cylinder base with the tapered end [D] facing

upward.

• Install the inner tube, cylinder unit, and cylinder base as

a set into the outer tube.

• Install the new guide bushing [A] with a use one [B] on it

by tapping the use one with the fork oil seal driver [C].

○The split [D] of the bushing should face toward the side of

the vehicle.

Special Tool - Front Fork Oil Seal Driver: 57001-1219

• Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the oil seal lips and

install the washer and the oil seal [A] into the outer tube.

Special Tool - Front Fork Oil Seal Driver: 57001-1219 [B]

• Install the retaining ring on the outer tube.

• Install a new bottom Allen bolt gasket.

• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of the

bottom Allen bolt and screw the Allen bolt into the bottom

of the outer tube.

• Hold the outer tube in a vise [A], hold the cylinder unit [B]

with the special tools, then tighten the Allen bolt [C].

○Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the front fork bot-

tom Allen bolt.

Special Tools - Fork Cylinder Holder Handle: 57001-183 [D]

Fork Cylinder Holder Adapter: 57001-1057

[E]

Torque - Front Fork Bottom Allen Bolt: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m,

15 ft·lb)

SUSPENSION 13-11

Front Fork

• Fill with the specified type of oil and install the parts re-

moved (see Fork Oil change).

• Install the dust seals.

Fork Oil:

KAYABA SS-8 or equivalent

Capacity (per

360 ±2.5 mL (12.2 ±0.08 US oz), (after

one unit):

fork disassembly and completely dry)

Inner Tube/Outer Tube Inspection

• Visually inspect the inner tube [A] and repair any damage.

• Nick or rust damage can sometimes be repaired by using

a wet-stone to remove sharp edges or raised areas which

cause seal damage.

If the damage is not repairable, replace the inner tube.

Since damage to the inner tube damages the oil seal,

replace the oil seal whenever the inner tube is repaired

or replace.

NOTICE

If the inner tube is badly bent or creased, replace

it.

Excessive bending, followed by subsequent

straightening, can weaken the inner tube.

• Temporarily assemble the inner tube and outer tube [B],

and pump them back and forth manually to check for

smooth operation.

If it does not operate smoothly, replace both the inner tube

and the outer tube.

WARNING

A straightened inner or outer fork tube may fall in

use, possibly causing an accident resulting in seri-

ous injury or death. Replace a badly bent or dam-

aged inner or outer tube and inspect the other tube

carefully before reusing it.

Fork Spring Inspection

• Measure the free length [B] of the fork spring [A].

If the spring of either fork leg is shorter than the service

limit, it must be replaced. If the length of the replacement

spring and that of the remaining spring vary greatly, the

remaining spring should also be replaced in order to keep

the fork legs balanced for motorcycle stability.

Fork Spring Free Length

Standard:

420.5 mm (16.6 in.)

Service Limit:

412 mm (16.2 in.)

Oil Seal/Dust Seal Inspection

• Inspect the oil seal [A] and dust seal [B] for any signs of

deterioration or damage.

Replace it if necessary.

13-12 SUSPENSION

Rear Shock Absorber

Spring Preload Adjustment

• Remove the bolts [A], chain cover [B] and left foot guard

[C] to turn the wrench.

• Using the steering stem nut wrench [A], turn the adjusting

nut to adjust the spring preload.

Special Tool - Steering Stem Nut Wrench: 57001-1100

• The spring preload can be left soft for average riding. But

it should be adjusted harder for high speed riding or riding

with a passenger. If the spring action feels too soft or too

stiff, adjust it in accordance with the following table.

Spring Preload Adjustment

Adjuster

Spring

Setting

Load

Road

Speed

Position

Force

1

Weak

Soft

Light

Good

Low

↑

↑

↑

↑

↑

↑

↓

↓

↓

↓

↓

↓

5

Strong

Hard

Heavy

Bad

High

• The standard adjuster setting is 1 step.

Rear Shock Absorber Removal

• Remove the lower fairings (see Lower Fairing in the

Frame chapter).

• Raise the rear wheel off the ground with jack.

Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238

Jack Attachment: 57001-1608

• Squeeze the brake lever slowly and hold it with the band

[A].

WARNING

Be sure to hold the front brake when removing the

shock absorber, or the motorcycle may fall over. It

could cause an accident and injury.

• Remove:

Tie-rod Lower and Bolt [A]

Rear Shock Absorber Nuts and Bolts [B]

SUSPENSION 13-13

Rear Shock Absorber

Rear Shock Absorber Installation

• Install the rear shock absorber.

• Replace:

Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Nuts

Tie-rod Nuts

• Tighten the tie-rod lower bolt and nut.

Torque - Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Nuts: 59 N·m (6.0

kgf·m, 44 ft·lb)

Tie-rod Nut (Lower): 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 44 ft·lb)

• Adjust the rear shock absorber spring preload in response

to riding condition (see Spring Preload Adjustment).

Rear Shock Absorber Scrapping

WARNING

Since the rear shock absorber contains nitrogen

gas, do not incinerate the rear shock absorber with-

out first releasing the gas or it may explode.

Before a rear shock absorber is scrapped, drill a

hole at the point [A] shown to release the nitrogen

gas completely. Wear safety glasses when drilling

the hole, as the gas may below out bits of drilled

metal when the hole opens.

• Drill the cylinder [A] of the shock absorber using about 2

mm (0.08 in.) drill bit.

13-14 SUSPENSION

Swingarm

Swingarm Removal

• Remove the lower fairings (see Lower Fairing Removal in

the Frame chapter).

• Remove the bolts [A] and the chain cover [B].

• Raise the rear wheel off the ground with jack.

Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238

Jack Attachment: 57001-1608

• Remove:

Rear Wheel (see Rear Wheel Removal in the

Wheels/Tire chapter)

Rear Shock Absorber [A] (see Rear Shock Absorber Re-

moval)

Tie-rod [B] (see Tie-rod Removal)

• Remove:

Brake Hose Clamp Bolt [A]

Bracket [B] with Brake Hose

• Remove the swingarm pivot nut [A] and shaft, remove the

swingarm [B].

Swingarm Installation

• Installation is the reverse of removal.

○Apply grease to the lip of oil seals.

○Be sure to install the oil seal and collar to swingarm.

• Tighten the swingarm pivot nut.

Torque - Swingarm Pivot Nut: 98 N·m (10.0 kgf·m, 72 ft·lb)

• Install the removed parts.

SUSPENSION 13-15

Swingarm

Swingarm Bearing Removal

• Remove:

Swingarm (see Swingarm Removal)

Grease Seal [A]

Sleeve [B]

Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143

• Remove the needle bearing.

Special Tool - Oil Seal & Bearing Remover: 57001-1058 [A]

Swingarm Bearing Installation

• Apply plenty of grease to the needle bearings.

• Install the needle bearings so that the manufacturer’s

marks faces out.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129 [A]

Swingarm Bearing, Sleeve Inspection

NOTICE

Do not remove the bearings for inspection. Re-

moval many damage them.

• The rollers in a needle bearing [A] normally wear very lit-

tle, and wear is difficult to measure. Instead of measuring,

inspect the bearing in the swingarm for abrasion, color

change, or other damage.

If there is any doubt as to the condition of any of the nee-

dle bearings or sleeve, replace the sleeve, and needle

bearings as a set.

13-16 SUSPENSION

Swingarm

Swingarm Lubrication

• Lubricate the swingarm needle bearings [A] according to

the Periodic Maintenance Chart. They are normal for a

small amount of grease to seep out around the grease

seals.

○If the swingarm pivots is disassembled, wipe all the old

grease off the bearings, sleeves, and grease seals, then

grease them.

Chain Guide Inspection

• Refer to the Chain Guide Wear Inspection in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter (see Chain Guide Wear Inspection

in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).