Ford Fiesta (1989-1995). Instruction - part 18

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Main bearing caps  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

95

70

Crankpin (big-end) bearing caps  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

33

24

Engine-to-transmission bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41

30

Note: Refer to Part B of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.

Zetec engines

Cylinder head

Maximum permissible gasket surface distortion  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.10 mm

Valve seat included angle  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

90º

Valve guide bore  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6.060 to 6.091 mm

Valves - general

Inlet

Exhaust

Valve length  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

96.870 to 97.330 mm

96.470 to 96.930 mm

Valve head diameter:

1.6 litre engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

26.0 mm

24.5 mm

1.8 litre engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

32.0 mm

28.0 mm

Valve stem diameter  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6.028 to 6.043 mm

6.010 to 6.025 mm

Valve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.017 to 0.064 mm

0.035 to 0.081 mm

Cylinder block

Cylinder bore diameter:

1.6 litre engine:

Class 1  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

76.000 to 76.010 mm

Class 2  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

76.010 to 76.020 mm 

Class 3  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

76.020 to 76.030 mm

1.8 litre engine:

Class 1  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80.600 to 80.610 mm

Class 2  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80.610 to 80.620 mm

Class 3  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80.620 to 80.630 mm

Pistons and piston rings

Piston diameter

1.6 litre engine: 

Class 1  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75.975 to 75.985 mm

Class 2  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75.985 to 75.995 mm

Class 3  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75.995 to 76.005 mm

1.8 litre engine: 

Class 1  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80.570 to 80.580 mm 

Class 2  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80.580 to 80.590 mm 

Class 3  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80.590 to 80.600 mm

Oversizes - all engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

None available

Piston-to-cylinder bore clearance  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Not specified

Piston ring end gaps - installed:

Compression rings  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.30 to 0.50 mm

Oil control ring: 

1.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.25 to 1.00 mm

1.8 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.38 to 1.14 mm

Gudgeon pin

Diameter:

White colour code/piston crown marked “A”  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20.622 to 20.625 mm

Red colour code/piston crown marked “B”  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20.625 to 20.628 mm

Blue colour code/piston crown marked “C”  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20.628 to 20.631 mm

Clearance in piston  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.010 to 0.016 mm

Interference fit in connecting rod  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.011 to 0.042 mm

Crankshaft and bearings

Main bearing journal standard diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

57.980 to 58.000 mm

Main bearing journal-to-shell running clearance  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.011 to 0.058 mm

Main bearing shell undersizes available  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.02 mm, 0.25 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal standard diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

46.890 to 46.910 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal-to-shell running clearance  . . . . . . .

0.016 to 0.070 mm

Big-end bearing shell undersizes available  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.02 mm, 0.25 mm

Crankshaft endfloat  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.090 to 0.310 mm

Engine removal and overhaul procedures  2D•5

2D

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Main bearing cap bolts and nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80

59

Crankpin (big-end) bearing cap bolts:

Stage 1  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

18

13

Stage 2  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Angle-tighten a further 90º

Piston-cooling oil jet/blanking plug Torx screws  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

7

Cylinder block and head oilway blanking plugs:

M6 x 10  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

7

M10 x 11.5 - in block  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

23

17

1/4 PTF plug - in block  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

24

18

Engine-to-transmission bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41

30

Note: Refer to Part C of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.

2D•6 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1

General information

Included in this Part of Chapter 2 are details

of removing the engine/transmission from the
car and general overhaul procedures for the
cylinder head, cylinder block/crankcase and
all other engine internal components.

The information given ranges from advice

concerning preparation for an overhaul and
the purchase of replacement parts, to detailed
step-by-step procedures covering removal,
inspection, renovation and refitting of engine
internal components.

After Section 6, all instructions are based

on the assumption that the engine has been
removed from the car. For information
concerning in-car engine repair, as well as the
removal and refitting of those external
components necessary for full overhaul, refer
to Part A, B or C of this Chapter (as
applicable) and to Section 6. Ignore any
preliminary dismantling operations described
in Part A, B or C that are no longer relevant
once the engine has been removed from the
car.

2

Engine/transmission
removal - preparation and
precautions

If you have decided that an engine must be

removed for overhaul or major repair work,
several preliminary steps should be taken.

Locating a suitable place to work is

extremely important. Adequate work space,
along with storage space for the car, will be
needed. If a workshop or garage is not
available, at the very least, a flat, level, clean
work surface is required.

If possible, clear some shelving close to the

work area and use it to store the engine
components and ancillaries as they are
removed and dismantled. In this manner the
components stand a better chance of staying
clean and undamaged during the overhaul.
Laying out components in groups together
with their fixing bolts, screws etc will save
time and avoid confusion when the engine is
refitted.

Clean the engine compartment and

engine/transmission before beginning the
removal procedure; this will help visibility and
help to keep tools clean.

On three of the engines covered in this

instruction (CVH, PTE, and Zetec), the unit can
only be withdrawn by removing it complete
with the transmission; the vehicle’s body must
be raised and supported securely, sufficiently
high that the engine/transmission can be
unbolted as a single unit and lowered to the
ground; the engine/transmission unit can then
be withdrawn from under the vehicle and
separated. On all engines, an engine hoist or
A-frame will be necessary. Make sure the
equipment is rated in excess of the combined
weight of the engine and transmission.

The help of an assistant should be

available; there are certain instances when
one person cannot safely perform all of the
operations required to remove the engine
from the vehicle. Safety is of primary
importance, considering the potential hazards
involved in this kind of operation. A second
person should always be in attendance to
offer help in an emergency. If this is the first
time you have removed an engine, advice and
aid from someone more experienced would
also be beneficial.

Plan the operation ahead of time. Before

starting work, obtain (or arrange for the hire
of) all of the tools and equipment you will
need. Access to the following items will allow
the task of removing and refitting the
engine/transmission to be completed safely
and with relative ease: an engine hoist - rated
in excess of the combined weight of the
engine/transmission, a heavy-duty trolley
jack, complete sets of spanners and sockets
as described in “Tools and working facilities”
at the rear this instruction, wooden blocks, and
plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for
mopping up spilled oil, coolant and fuel. A
selection of different sized plastic storage bins
will also prove useful for keeping dismantled
components grouped together. If any of the
equipment must be hired, make sure that you
arrange for it in advance, and perform all of
the operations possible without it beforehand;
this may save you time and money.

Plan on the vehicle being out of use for

quite a while, especially if you intend to carry
out an engine overhaul. Read through the
whole of this Section and work out a strategy

based on your own experience and the tools,
time and workspace available to you. Some of
the overhaul processes may have to be
carried out by a Ford dealer or an engineering
works - these establishments often have busy
schedules, so it would be prudent to consult
them before removing or dismantling the
engine, to get an idea of the amount of time
required to carry out the work.

When removing the engine from the vehicle,

be methodical about the disconnection of
external components. Labelling cables and
hoses as they removed will greatly assist the
refitting process.

Always be extremely careful when lifting the

engine/transmission assembly from the
engine bay. Serious injury can result from
careless actions. If help is required, it is better
to wait until it is available rather than risk
personal injury and/or damage to components
by continuing alone. By planning ahead and
taking your time, a job of this nature, although
major, can be accomplished successfully and
without incident.

3

Engine - removal and 
refitting (HCS engines)

3

Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system.

Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or bare
light bulbs, in or near the work area, and
don’t work in a garage where a natural-gas
appliance (such as a clothes dryer or water
heater) is installed. If you spill petrol on
your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have a
fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires
handy, and know how to use it.
Note: Read through the entire Section, as well
as reading the advice in the preceding
Section, before beginning this procedure. The
engine is removed separately from the
transmission and is lifted upwards and out of
the engine compartment.

Removal

1 On fuel injection engines, refer to Chap-
ter 4B and depressurise the fuel system.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).

3 Referring to Chapter 1 for details, drain the
coolant and engine oil. Refit the drain plug to
the sump on completion.
4 Remove the bonnet as described in
Chapter 11.
5 Remove the air cleaner assembly as
described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
6 Release the retaining clips and detach the

following coolant hoses. Allow for coolant
spillage as the hoses are detached (see
illustrations):
a)

All hoses at the thermostat housing.

b)

Bottom hose from the radiator to the
water pump.

c)

Heater hoses at the bulkhead and water
pump.

d)

Inlet manifold coolant supply hose (where
applicable).

7 Disconnect the fuel trap vacuum hose from
the inlet manifold.
8 Disconnect the brake servo unit vacuum
hose from the inlet manifold, by pushing the
hose retainer in towards the manifold and
simultaneously pulling free the hose (see
illustration).
9 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 for
details, and detach the accelerator cable.
Where applicable, detach the choke cable
from the carburettor.
10 Compress the quick-release couplings at
the sides, and detach the fuel supply hose
and return hose from the fuel pump, CFi unit
or fuel rail (see illustration). Allow for fuel
spillage as the hoses are disconnected, and
plug the exposed ends to prevent further

spillage and the ingress of dirt. Position the
hoses out of the way.
11 Note their locations and disconnect the
wiring connectors from the following (see
illustrations):
a)

Coolant temperature gauge sender unit.

b)

The oil pressure switch.

c)

The radio earth lead.

d)

The cooling fan thermostatic switch.

e)

The DIS/E-DIS ignition coil.

f)

The crankshaft speed/position sensor.

g)

The engine coolant temperature sensor.

h)

The idle cut-off valve.

12 Disconnect the remaining wiring multi-
plugs from the engine sensors at the inlet
manifold and from the oxygen sensor 
(where fitted) in the exhaust manifold or
downpipe.
13 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
14 Unscrew the retaining nuts, and detach
the exhaust downpipe from the exhaust
manifold. Remove the seal from the joint
flange.
15 Refer to Chapter 5A for details, and
remove the starter motor.
16 Undo the two retaining bolts, and remove
the clutch lower cover plate.
17 Unscrew the retaining bolt, and 
detach the gearshift stabiliser from the
transmission.
18 Unscrew and remove the engine/

Engine removal and overhaul procedures  2D•7

3.8  Detach the servo vacuum hose from

the manifold

3.6b  Disconnect the bottom hose (A) and

the heater hose (B) from the water pump

3.6a  Disconnect the overflow hose (A) and

the top hose (B) from the thermostat

housing

3.11b  Engine crankshaft position sensor

and multi-plug

3.11a  Wiring connections to the 

HCS engine

A Idle cut-off valve
B DIS ignition coil
C Engine coolant temperature sensor
D Oil pressure switch

3.10  Fuel supply (A) and return (B) hose

connections at the fuel pump

2D

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Whenever you disconnect any vacuum
lines, coolant or emissions hoses,
wiring connectors and fuel lines,
always label them clearly, so that they
can be correctly reassembled. Masking
tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator
work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations
of components and brackets.

transmission flange attachment bolts (see
illustration).
19 Check that the appropriate underside
attachments are disconnected and out of the
way, then lower the vehicle to the ground.
20 Unbolt and remove the heat shield from
the exhaust manifold.
21 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine. It is
possible to fabricate lifting eyes to connect
the hoist to the engine, but make sure that
they are strong enough, and connect them to
the inlet and exhaust manifold at diagonally-
opposite ends of the engine.
22 With the hoist securely connected, take
the weight of the engine. Unscrew and
remove the right-hand engine mounting side
bolt from under the right-hand wheel arch.
Unscrew and remove the mounting retaining
nut and washer from the suspension strut cup
retaining plate, and the three bolts securing
the mounting unit to the cylinder block.
23 Locate a jack under the transmission, and
raise it to take the weight of the transmission.
24 Unscrew and remove the remaining
engine-to-transmission retaining bolts on the
upper flange.
25 Check around the engine to ensure that all
of the relevant fixings and attachments are
disconnected and out of the way for the
removal.
26 Enlist the aid of an assistant, then move
the engine sideways and away from the
transmission, whilst simultaneously raising 
the transmission. When the engine is
separated from the transmission, carefully
guide it up and out of the engine
compartment. Do not allow the weight of the
engine to hang on the transmission input shaft
at any point during the removal (or refitting) of
the engine. When the engine sump is clear 
of the vehicle, swing the power unit out of the
way, and lower it onto a trolley (if available).
Unless a mobile hoist is being used, it will be
necessary to move the vehicle rearwards and
out of the way in order to allow the engine to
be lowered for removal. In this instance,
ensure that the weight of the transmission is
well supported as the vehicle is moved.
27 While the engine is removed, check the
mountings; renew them if they are worn or
damaged. Similarly, check the condition of all
coolant and vacuum hoses and pipes (see

Chapter 1); components that are normally
hidden can now be checked properly, and
should be renewed if there is any doubt at all
about their condition. Also, take the
opportunity to overhaul the clutch
components (see Chapter 6). It is regarded by
many as good working practice to renew the
clutch assembly as a matter of course,
whenever major engine overhaul work is
carried out. Check also the condition of all
components disturbed on removal, and renew
any that are damaged or worn.

Refitting

28 Refitting is in general, a reversal of the
removal procedure, but the following special
points should be noted.
29 Before coupling the engine to the
transmission, apply a thin smear of high-
melting-point grease onto the transmission
input shaft splines. If the clutch has been
removed, ensure that the clutch disc is
centralised, and disconnect the clutch cable
from the release lever on the transmission
casing.
30 Tighten all fixings to their recommended
torque wrench settings.
31 Check that the mating faces are clean,
and fit a new exhaust downpipe-to-manifold
gasket and self-locking nuts when
reconnecting this joint.
32 Ensure that all wiring connections are
correctly and securely made.
33 Remove the plugs from the fuel lines
before reconnecting them correctly and
securely.
34 Reconnect and adjust the accelerator and
choke cables as described in the relevant Part
of Chapter 4. The refitting details for the air
cleaner components are also given in that
Chapter.
35 Renew any coolant hoses (and/or
retaining clips) that are not in good condition.
36 Refer to Chapter 6 for details on
reconnecting the clutch cable.
37 When the engine is fully refitted, check
that the various hoses are connected, and
then top-up the engine oil and coolant levels
as described in Chapter 1 and “Weekly
Checks”.
38 When engine refitting is completed, refer to
Section 19 for the engine start-up procedures.

4

Engine/transmission -
removal and refitting (CVH and
PTE engines)

3

Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system.

Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or bare
light bulbs, in or near the work area, and
don’t work in a garage where a natural-gas
appliance (such as a clothes dryer or water
heater) is installed. If you spill petrol on
your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have a
fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires
handy, and know how to use it.
Note: Read through the entire Section, as well
as reading the advice in Section 2, before
beginning this procedure. The engine and
transmission are removed as a unit, lowered to
the ground and removed from underneath,
then separated outside the vehicle.

Removal

1 On all fuel injection engines, refer to
Chapter 4B, C or D as applicable and
depressurise the fuel system.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Referring to Chapter 1 for details, drain the
coolant and the engine oil. Refit the drain plug
to the sump on completion.
4 Refer to Chapter 11 for details, and remove
the bonnet.
5 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
inlet components as described in the relevant
Part of Chapter 4.
6 Release the retaining clips and detach the
coolant top hose, the heater hose and the
radiator overflow hose from the thermostat
housing. Disconnect the coolant hose from
the inlet manifold, and the bottom hose from
the water pump and/or the radiator (see
illustrations). On 1.4 litre CFi fuel injection
models, also disconnect the coolant hose
from the injection unit. On EFi and SEFi fuel
injection models, detach the heater hose 
Y-connector. Allow for coolant spillage as the
hoses are detached. On turbocharged
engines, disconnect the coolant return hose
from the turbocharger connecting pipe.

2D•8 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

4.6b  Heater coolant hoses and Y-connector

on 1.6 litre EFi fuel injection models

4.6a  Coolant hose connections to the

thermostat (arrowed)

3.18  Engine-to-transmission flange

attachment bolts (arrowed)

1595Ford Fiesta Remake