Peugeot 405. Manual - part 47

Overhaul

8 Thoroughly clean the lower arm and the
area around the arm mountings, removing all
traces of dirt and underseal if necessary, then
check carefully for cracks, distortion or any
other signs of wear or damage, paying
particular attention to the mounting bushes,
and renew components as necessary.
9 Examine the shank of the pivot bolt for
signs of wear or scoring, and renew if
necessary.
10 Examine the mounting bushes for
deterioration or damage.
11 The mounting bushes can be renewed,
but a press or suitable alternative tools will be
required. If the rear mounting bush is
renewed, it must be pressed into the position
shown, and the marks on the bush and the
lower arm must be aligned. Note that some
bushes have two alignment marks, in which
case the mark nearest the bolt hole should be
ignored. Use a little silicon lubricant to aid
fitting of the bushes (see illustrations).

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.

a) Renew all Nyloc nuts.
b) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.
c) On completion, have the front wheel

alignment checked at the earliest
opportunity with reference to Section 25.

7

Front suspension lower
balljoint - removal and
refitting

5

Note: Peugeot special tool (-).0615.J will be
required to unscrew and tighten the balljoint. If
this tool is not available, the task should be
entrusted to a Peugeot dealer. Do not attempt
the work using an improvised tool.

Removal

1 Remove the hub carrier as described in
Section 2.
2 Tap the dust shield from the balljoint, using
a drift (see illustration).
3 Fit the special tool (-).0615.J to the balljoint,
engaging the tool with the cut-outs in the
balljoint, and secure it by screwing the tool
locknut onto the threaded section of the
balljoint (see illustration). Engage a swing bar
or wrench with the tool, and unscrew the
balljoint.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.

a) Tighten the balljoint as far as possible by

hand before finally tightening to the
specified torque using the special tool.

b) Take care not to damage the balljoint

rubber gaiter during fitting.

c) Lock the balljoint in position by staking

into one of the notches in the hub carrier.

d) Lock the dust shield in position by staking

it in one of the cut-outs in the balljoint.

e) Refit the hub carrier as described in

Section 2.

8

Front anti-roll bar
components - 
removal and refitting

3

Anti-roll bar

Removal

Note: All Nyloc nuts disturbed on removal
must be renewed as a matter of course. These
nuts have threads which are pre-coated with
locking compound (this is only effective once).
Note:

After refitting, the anti-roll bar

adjustment should be checked by a Peugeot
dealer at the earliest opportunity (the
suspension must be compressed using
special equipment in order to carry out the
check).
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the
roadwheels.
2 Remove the bolts securing the anti-roll bar
drop links to the lower arms.
3 Unscrew  the bolts securing the drop links
to the ends of the anti-roll bar, and withdraw
the drop links (see illustration). If necessary,
counterhold the ends of the drop links using a
suitable Allen key or hexagon bit.
4 Make (horizontal) alignment marks between
the  anti-roll bar and the clamps securing the
anti-roll bar to the subframe, so that the anti-
roll bar can be fitted in exactly the same
position.
5 Unscrew the clamp bolts, then withdraw
the clamp assemblies. Recover the spacers.
Note that there is no need to remove the
metal clamps (fitted on the bar, at the inside
edges of the main clamps), which prevent the
anti-roll bar from moving laterally (see
illustration).
6 Manipulate the anti-roll bar out from under
the vehicle. Note that it may be necessary to
loosen the two subframe rear mounting bolts
to allow the rear of the subframe to be
lowered sufficiently to allow clearance to
remove the anti-roll bar. Note that the

Suspension and steering  10•7

7.2  Tap the dust shield (arrowed) 

from the balljoint

a  Area to apply lubricant
b & c  Alignment marks
d  Ignore

A  Bush assembly
B  Area to apply lubricant
X = 254.0 mm

8.3  Removing an anti-roll bar drop link

7.3  Peugeot special tool for removing

front suspension lower balljoint

6.11b  Alignment marks on lower arm rear

mounting bush

6.11a  Lower arm rear mounting bush

fitting position

10

subframe bolts may be covered by plastic
plugs on certain models. On some models, it
may also prove necessary to unbolt the
steering gear from the subframe.
7 If the inner metal clamps on the anti-roll bar
are to be removed, mark their positions so
that they can be refitted in their original
positions.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.

a) Ensure that all marks on the anti-roll bar

and the clamps are aligned.

b) Do not fully tighten the anti-roll bar clamp

bolts until the car is resting on its wheels.

c) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.
d) On completion, have the anti-roll bar

adjustment checked by a Peugeot dealer
at the earliest opportunity.

Drop link

Removal

Note: All Nyloc nuts disturbed on removal
must be renewed as a matter of course. These
nuts have threads which are pre-coated with
locking compound (this is only effective once.)
9 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the
roadwheels.
10 Remove the bolt securing the drop link to
the lower arm.
11 Unscrew the bolt securing the drop link to
the end of the anti-roll bar, and withdraw the

drop link. If necessary, counterhold the end of
the drop link using a suitable Allen key or
hexagon bit.

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the fixings to the specified torque.

9

Front suspension subframe -
removal and refitting

4

Removal

Note: All Nyloc nuts disturbed on removal
must be renewed as a matter of course. These
nuts have threads which are pre-coated with
locking compound (this is only effective once).
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2 Remove the suspension lower arms as
described in Section 6.
3 Remove the steering gear (see Section 19).
4 Remove the rear engine mounting as
described in Chapter 2.
5 Where applicable, release the clip securing the
clutch cable to the subframe (see illustration).
6 Where applicable, remove the screws
and/or clips securing the underbody shields
and wheel arch liners to the subframe (see
illustration).
7 Work around the subframe, and release any
pipes, hoses and wiring from the clips and
brackets on the subframe. Note that it may be

necessary to disconnect certain components
on some models. Make a note of the routing
of all pipes, hoses and wiring to ensure
correct refitting.
8 Support the subframe using a trolley jack
and interposed block of wood. Make sure that
the jack is positioned to adequately support
the subframe without danger of the assembly
falling off the jack.
9 Unscrew the four subframe mounting bolts,
and carefully lower the subframe from under
the vehicle (see illustration). Note that the
subframe rear mounting bolts may be covered
by plastic plugs on certain models.

Refitting

10 From approximately November 1988,
revised subframe rear mounting bolts were
introduced. The later bolts incorporate a
captive washer in place of the Bellville washer
fitted to earlier bolts. If the earlier Bellville
washers are found to be cracked, the later
bolts with captive washers should be fitted. It
is advisable to take the opportunity to fit the
later type of bolts as a matter of course, to
avoid possible problems in the future.
11 From approximately mid-1992, the
subframe rear mountings were modified. The
rear mounting bolts were increased in size
from M12 to M14, and torque wrench setting
was changed accordingly.
12 Subframes with M14 bolts can be
identified from the 6.0 mm holes located
behind the rear mountings (see illustration).
13 Body shells with fixings provided for the
M14 bolts can be identified from the two

10•8 Suspension and steering

8.5  Unscrew the anti-roll bar 

clamp bolts (A). There is no need to

remove the metal clamp (B)

9.6  Remove the (arrowed) screws

securing the underbody shields 

to the subframe

9.12  Modified front subframe components

9.9  Subframe rear mounting bolt 

(arrowed)

9.5  Release the clip (arrowed) securing

the clutch cable to the subframe

A  6.0 mm diameter holes      B  Body shell stiffeners

stiffeners located under the floor (see
illustration 9.12).
14 A few vehicles were fitted with the earlier
body shells (with M12 bolt holes and no
stiffeners), and the later subframe (with M14
bolt holes and 6.0 mm identification holes).
On these models, the subframe is secured
with special M12 shouldered bolts.
15 If either the subframe or the body shell are
renewed, carry out the action given in the
table below, according to the type of
components fitted. Use only the specified
parts, available from a Peugeot dealer.
16 Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
bearing in mind the following points.

a) Clean the threads of the subframe

mounting bolts, and apply thread-locking
compound before refitting.

b) Refit the rear engine mounting with

reference to Chapter 2.

c) Refit the steering gear (see Section 19).
d) Refit the lower arms with reference to

Section 6.

e) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.

10 Rear hub assembly - 

removal and refitting

4

Removal

Note: Do not remove the hub assembly unless
it is absolutely necessary. A puller will be

required to draw the hub assembly off the
stub axle, and the hub bearing will almost
certainly be damaged by the removal
procedure. A new oil seal support cup, and a
new hub nut and hub cap will be required on
refitting.
1 On models with rear disc brakes, remove
the brake disc as described in Chapter 9.
2 On models with rear drum brakes, remove
the brake drum as described in Chapter 9. If
desired, to improve access for hub removal,
also remove the brake shoes.
3 Where applicable, remove the ABS wheel
sensor as described in Chapter 9. Note that
there is no need to disconnect the wiring
connector, but move the sensor to one side,
clear of the working area.
4 Using a hammer and a large flat-bladed
screwdriver, carefully tap and prise the cap
out of the centre of the hub. Discard the cap -

Suspension and steering  10•9

10.6a  Using a puller to draw the rear hub

assembly from the stub axle

10.6c  . . . and the oil seal support cup

10.6b  Removing the inner bearing race . . .

10.4b  . . . then tap up the staking on the

hub nut

10.4a  Tap the cap from the centre 

of the hub . . .

10

Front subframe parts compatibility table - see Section 9

New parts fitted

Parts not renewed

Action to be taken

Bolt dia.

Body shell with 

Subframe with 

Discard M14 cage 

M14 subframe fixings

M12 mounting bolt holes

nuts fitted to body shell 
(accessible from inside 
body shell), and fit 
M12 cage nuts

M12

Subframe with 

Body shell with 

Discard the subframe 

M14 mounting bolt holes

M12 subframe fixings

rear mounting bolts and fit 
special M12 shouldered bolts

M12

Subframe with 
M14 mounting bolt holes, 
and body shell with 

None

Fit M14 bolts with

M14 subframe fixings

plastic protectors

M14

a new one must be used on refitting. Using a
hammer and a chisel-nosed tool, tap up the
staking securing the hub retaining nut to the
groove in the stub axle (see illustrations).
5 Using a socket and long bar, slacken and
remove the rear hub nut, and withdraw the
thrustwasher. Discard the hub nut - a new nut
must used on refitting.
6 Using a puller, draw the hub assembly off
the stub axle, along with the outer bearing
race. With the hub removed, use the puller to
draw the inner bearing race off the stub axle,
then remove the oil seal support cup, noting
which way around it is fitted (see
illustrations).
7 Refit the races to the hub bearing, and
check the hub bearing for signs of roughness.
It is recommended that the bearing should be
renewed as a matter of course, as it is likely to
have been damaged during removal. This
means that the complete hub assembly must
be renewed, since it is not possible to obtain
the bearing separately.
8 With the hub removed, examine the stub
axle shaft for signs of wear or damage. The
stub axle is integral with the trailing arms, and
if damaged, the complete assembly must be
renewed.

Refitting

9 Lubricate the stub axle shaft with clean
engine oil, then slide on the new oil seal
support cup, ensuring it is fitted the correct
way round.
10 Fit the new bearing inner race, and tap it
fully onto the stub axle using a hammer and a
tubular drift which bears only on the flat inside
edge of the race (see Tool Tip overleaf).

11 Ensure that the bearing is packed with
grease, then slide the hub assembly onto the
stub axle. Fit the new outer bearing race, and
tap it into position using a tubular drift until the
hub nut can be fitted to finally draw the hub
into position (see illustrations).
12 Fit the thrustwasher and new hub nut, and
tighten the hub nut to the specified torque.
Stake the nut firmly into the groove on the
stub axle to secure it in position, then tap the
new hub cap into place in the centre of the
hub (see illustrations).
13 Refit the rear brake disc, or the brake
drum (and shoes, where applicable), as
described in Chapter 9.

11 Rear hub bearing - renewal

It is not possible to renew the rear hub

bearing separately. If the bearing is worn, the
complete rear hub assembly must be
renewed. Refer to Section 10 for hub removal
and refitting procedures.

12 Rear suspension

components - general

1 Although it is possible to remove the rear
suspension torsion bars, trailing arms and

anti-roll bar independently of the complete
rear axle assembly, it is essential to have
special tools available to complete the work
successfully (see illustration).
2 Due to the complexity of the tasks, and the
requirement for special tools to accurately set
the suspension geometry on refitting, the
removal and refitting of individual rear
suspension components is considered to be
beyond the scope of DIY work, and should be
entrusted to a Peugeot dealer.
3 Procedures for removal and refitting of the
rear shock absorbers, and the complete rear
suspension assembly are given in Sections 13
and 14 respectively.

13 Rear shock absorber -

removal, testing and refitting

3

Removal

Note: New shock absorber mounting nuts
must be used on refitting.
1 Drive the rear of the vehicle onto ramps,
then apply the handbrake and chock the front
wheels. Do not support the vehicle with the
trailing arms hanging unsupported.
2 Where applicable, remove the rear body
undershield.
3 Counterhold the bolts, and unscrew the

10•10 Suspension and steering

10.11b  . . . followed by the 

outer bearing race . . .

10.12c  . . . stake the hub nut firmly into the

stub axle groove

10.12b  Using a hammer and punch . . .

10.12a  . . . and the thrustwasher

10.11a  Fit the hub assembly . . .

Using a socket and the old hub nut to
fit the bearing inner race

1  Right-hand torsion bar
2  End of left-hand 

torsion bar

3  Anti-roll bar
4  Shock absorber
5  Tubular crossmember

12.1  Rear suspension components