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Bob Colson of the Jaguar Club of Southern Arizona points out that the window lift switches can be taken apart. First,
remove them from the panel -- easiest to do by first removing the panel so you can push them out from behind. Then,
by spreading the housing slightly, the rocker itself can be popped out. Then the parts can be cleaned up and repaired as
needed. The two rocking contact plates are symmetrical but only one end of each gets worn, so the plates can be
reversed to extend their life. The cruise control on/off/resume switch is constructed similarly.
Phil Patton adds: “Usually it seems the plastic things on the ends of the springs wear unevenly for some reason. When
cleaning the switch replace the one from the left side to the right and vis-a-vis.”
Another solution is to replace the switches with generic double pole/double throw self-centering rocker switches with
better contact ratings. The difficulty here, obviously, is getting them to look right. Phil Patton sends this tip: “I have
found a switch which is less expensive, IMHO looks much better, and I am positive will last much, much longer. This
part fits the existing hole perfectly and has a small, coloured illuminated strip across it, making it easy to find in the
dark. It is rated at 20 amps @ 12 volts and is (unlike the Jag switch) completely sealed so that dirt cannot contaminate
the contacts. The part is GC number 35-3565 (green light) or 35-3570 (red light). They should be available from any
decent size electronics parts house. The only modification necessary to use this part is to cut off the plug on the wiring
harness and replace it with push-on lugs on each wire. If you don’t like the light then just don’t connect it.”
Stephen Wood says, “I replaced the power window and power lock switches in my ’76 XJ-S with ’82-92
Camaro/Firebird units, $10 ea. new and they work great. I had to make a wiring jumper and a sub plate for mounting,
but they function better than the Jag ones ever did.”
A preventative measure may be to install a pair of zener diodes at each motor. See the treatise on controlling inductive
loads starting on page 557.
Perhaps the best solution, and one that maintains the original appearance, is to install relays to operate the windows and
operate the relays with the stock rocker switch. See below.
WINDOW CONTROL RELAY INSTALLATION: Both the dragging windows and the burned switch contacts are
symptoms of the same problem: The switches are inadequate for the load. The high resistance, due to marginal,
overloaded, or charred contacts, results in less than ideal power to the motor and causes the contacts themselves to fail
often. This author measured the voltage at the window motor with the window trying to close, and it was less than 8
volts -- and dropping below 7 volts as the motor struggled. This operating voltage means the motor is only developing
about 45% as much power as it would at 12V.
A set of window control relays will provide full battery voltage to the window motors, eliminating the losses in the
wiring harnesses and switches. See Figure 31. Two SPDT relays will be needed for each window, an “up” relay and a
“down” relay, and each will need to have serious contacts -- at least 10-amp rating. Since the current needed to operate
the relays is minimal, the rocker switches should last forever -- even if they’ve already been abused and cleaned up a
couple times.
The XJ-S comes with a relay referred to in the Jaguar literature as a “window lift relay”; all this relay does is turn off
power to the windows when the ignition is off. I will continue to use that term when referring to that relay, and will call
the new relays being added in the following scheme “window control relays”. Try not to get confused.