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“Small self tappers were used to seal off the vents. I found on my XJ6 that as I pumped, no grease came out of the Jag
supplied vent next to the zerk; it must be well and truly blocked. I got plenty of grease out my new vent holes. At first
very old and stiff grease, then newer grease sitting in the centre of the cavity, then new moly grease. I also loosed off
the 5/8" shaft nuts and rotated the shaft to rotate the bearings which spreads grease and spreads the wear pattern.
“Now I know how it should be done, I guess an hour would cover the job for both wheels. You might want a spare
drill, it is not too hard to break one. That is no tragedy, it just means you have an extra hole which may or may not
penetrate the bore.”
Since lubrication is a challenge, it might help to use the most suitable grease rather than simply whatever’s on hand.
Richard Griffiths says, “EP should be fine; in my view grease for this application requires:
High viscosity base oil at operating temp.
Water resistant filler
Oxidation inhibitor additive
Corrosion inhibitor additive
“Other additives such as Moly are of no significance for this application. In my experience Moly was usually specified
for sliding applications; in this case the trick is to keep the rollers actually "rolling" under high oscillating loads while
maintaining the oil film. EP should do better here.”
REAR SWINGARM OUTER PIVOT - OIL BATH LUBRICATION: Getting grease right into the contact points
between rollers and races is an iffy proposition at best, especially the rollers that happen to be at the top. Unlike wheel
bearings or other applications, the motion of the bearings themselves cannot be expected to help move the grease
around to where it’s needed; these rollers don’t move as far as the spacing between rollers.
Richard Griffiths proposes a novel solution: “Two things we know for sure; EP additives work and channeling can
occur in "thick" greases leading to lube starvation failures. So if I had your set up with the better seals, I would
consider using a hi visc EP oil instead of grease. Highest stuff that will still pour at say -10°F.”
Obviously, having the oil seals installed on the pivot joint as described on page 395 is essential for this idea; the OEM
felt seals will simply allow oil to ooze out, and the last thing a Jaguar needs is another oil leak. The oil seals should be
installed flat side out, since they will used to hold oil in -- exactly what they were designed to do!
Also, you need to use sealant when assembling. Apply sealant to both sides of everything in the stack along the
fulcrum shaft to make sure oil can’t leak along the shaft to get out. And before the oil seal is pressed into the hub
carrier, some sealant should be applied in the recess.
Having an oil-filled assembly sealed airtight would not be good, so using a screw to plug the grease vent as described
above is not recommended. As with other containers holding oil such as the GM 400 transmission or the differential,
the ideal arrangement would be for the joint to be fitted with a breather that allows the chamber to be vented while
keeping oil in and water and dirt out. There are a couple of ideas here. One is to drill the existing grease vent hole out
to a larger size and then thread it to hold a fitting of some sort -- possibly the same fitting as the one used on the
differential. Another is to press in a small tube and connect a hose to a remote breather, similar to that used on the GM
400; such a remote breather would need to be secured to the hub carrier so it doesn’t flap around too much when the
wheel bounces over bumps in the road. Remember to make sure the breather connection doesn’t interfere with the axle
U-joint or its cover; an elbow fitting may be in order. The simplest idea is probably to simply drill the existing grease
vent hole bigger but only part way down, not all the way through, and then jam a piece of felt or a cotton ball in the
hole.
Richard Griffiths says, “One of those breather plugs with the sintered "filter" center piece would be neat also. See the
stuff from the Stewart Warner or Tedeco companies for example.”
When devising a breather, remember that you will also need to be able to put oil into this compartment. If a really
small (1/8” or so) breather is devised, you’ll probably need to make a second hole so you can add oil to one hole while