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unconcerned about appearance, it is a simple matter to relocate the harness right up on the fuel rail and tie it in place
with zip ties.
If your harness is already cooked, consider fix #2 -- rebuilding the harness using better wire. Sawyers: “The real
McCoy seems to be Raychem Flexlite High Performance wire. This stuff is double insulated, with a primary insulation
of radiation crosslinked polyalkene, and a jacket of modified PVF2. Operates at up to 125°C and has excellent
chemical resistance (ie oils for us) (they say). The problem? It is a factor of ten more expensive than standard
automotive cable. This means (in US speak) about $1 a yard for the most common gauge.”
Another possibility is Teflon-insulated wire. If you find a source, buy it and use it. Of course, asbestos-insulated wire
would work great, but isn’t recommended anyway.
Del City (page 704) offers “cross-linked polyethylene” insulated wire which is supposedly good to 177°C (350°F).
That oughta be enough!
Del City will add stripes to wires if you want, but it’ll probably entail minimum order sizes beyond reason for the home
mechanic. If you find sources of small lots of color-coded wire, good for you, but if you’re limited in colors you can
color code them with pieces of heat shrink tubing, or even type up little labels and fasten them to the wires with clear
heat-shrink tubing. If you wanna get fancy, there are professional wire labelling products available.
To end up with a reliable injector harness, you can either rebuild the one you’ve got or make an entirely new one from
scratch. Either way is about the same amount of effort, but rebuilding the existing one requires less thought. Just mark
which plug goes to which cylinder, then take the whole thing off and lay it out on the bench. Strip all the wrapping.
One by one, cut out the dried, cracking sections of wire and replace them with new sections. Use heat-shrink tubing to
seal all soldering jobs. Of course, you may choose to replace injector connectors while you’re at it -- see above.
Making a new one from scratch is not only not really any more difficult, but it results in a considerably neater
appearance and more pride in the accomplishment. Again, take the harness off and lay it out on the bench and strip the
wrapping. But in this case, merely inspect it to see how the wires are routed and connected, measure the lengths, and
make an entirely new harness. If you wanna get professional about it, you can lay down a sheet of plywood and
hammer nails into it as a guide to making the new harness, but this really isn’t called for on a one-time job.
There are even a couple of minor changes you might make to your new harness. When this author did this job, one
change made was the location of the section of the harness that passes from the right bank over to the left bank side.
On the OEM harness, this bundle of wires passed under the A/C compressor. The new harness was altered slightly to
have this bundle pass to the rear of the compressor and under the cruise control bellows instead, a much more
convenient location.
You probably won’t be able to find a replacement for the big plug at the right side fenderwell, but the original one is
probably OK due to its location away from the serious heat; you can merely dyke it off and splice it into the new
harness assembly. If you would rather replace it, you can get some generic connectors and replace the connector on the
end of the harness on the right fenderwell that the injector harness connects to. You need connectors with at least five
terminals (the original has eight, but you can combine some). You can, of course, connect them up with multiple
smaller connectors, or even a bunch of individual spade connectors, but that would look crummy. Perhaps the best
connectors available are called Delphi-Packard automotive connectors; they are commonly used in modern GM cars,
and they are completely sealed so they won't corrode. They are likewise available from Del City; you can use either a
single 6-pin or two 4-pin connectors for this job. If you choose to use two 4-pins, you might actually opt to create two
completely separate injector harnesses, one per bank.
Del City also sells new high-temperature looming, but if you want you can just bundle the wires with zip ties every few
inches and leave them visible.
If you’d like to review some photos of the injector harness work, visit
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xj-s/book/InjHarnessRebuilding.html
I know what you’re thinking: “Too much effort; I’d rather just buy a new harness.” Wrong. First off, you clearly have
no comprehension of just how far Jaguar can gouge the customer for a few wires and connectors; once you price this
item, after they pick you up off the floor you will be shopping for wire and a soldering gun. Second, remember that a