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Tightening the locknuts requires three hands: one to hold the 1/4” wrench holding the ball socket still, one turning the
5/16” wrench to tighten the locknut, and a third to keep the crossrod from turning as you tighten. If you have a third
hand available, a pair of pliers might be preferable to expecting to hold the crossrod still with fingers. If you don’t have
a third hand available, a pair of vice grips will work if you carefully prop them on the fuel rail.
Make sure the ball sockets end up properly oriented 90° to each other when the locknuts are tight. The flats on the one
at the turntable end should be horizontal and the flats on the one at the outboard end should be vertical.
When done, check your work: put that .002” feeler gauge in the butterfly stop on each side (or one in both sides, if you
have two .002” feeler gauges) and very slowly and carefully turn the turntable (without touching the crossrods
themselves) until the feeler gauge drops. Note the gap between the turntable and the idle stop when they drop.
Officially this backlash at the turntable stop is to be between 0.062-0.094” (1.57-2.39mm)(the .002” feeler gauge adds a
bit to this, but it’s negligible).
Also make sure the two butterflies open as close as possible to the same time. If they don’t, the TSB allows an
additional 0.030” of turntable travel to get the second throttle to move off its stop.
Adjustment 5: Loosen the locknut on the full throttle stop screw on the throttle pulley, and back the stop screw away.
Hold the pulley in full throttle position, noting that the butterflies are both full open. Adjust the stop screw until it just
touches the pulley and retighten the locknut. This stop screw merely prevents stress on the linkage while the engine is
at full throttle and the kickdown switch is in operation, and is not meant to restrict full throttle.
Ensure that the throttle moves freely through the full range of motion. Finally, check for no gap at the turntable stop
with the throttle in the closed position. If the cruise control cable is too tight, it can restrict the throttle linkage moving
fully to idle.
You will need to warm up the car and readjust the idle speed, since the butterfly stop screw positions have been altered.
THROTTLE STICKING: Apparently, all cars have occasional problems with throttle sticking due to buildup on the
butterfly itself. A butterfly cleaning procedure from Randy Wilson: “You are cleaning the throttle plate and
surrounding area. The edge of the butterfly and the area of the housing right around it will be covered in black goo.
Prop the throttle open and wipe the stuff out with a rag. Use the weakest solvent you can to get it clean. I start with a
“WD-40” grade oil, and go to carb cleaner if it’s really bad. Oven cleaner is out. Sand blasting is not needed or
recommended.
“Warning: Some non-Jag cars, notably later Fords, have a teflon coating on things in an attempt to reduce this problem.
Most solvents will damage this coating.”
THROTTLE LINKAGE LUBRICATION: Jan Wikström says, “The ball-joints shouldn't be lubricated at all, unless
you want to give them a dusting with Teflon or graphite. The reason is that grease hardens and oil or grease picks up
dust from the air, increasing linkage wear and friction.