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HIGH IDLE SPEED: If your idle is too high and you’ve screwed the adjuster in all the way and it won’t come down,
problems with the Auxiliary Air Valve are by far the most common culprit -- see below. There are other possible
causes, though, including a vacuum leak, butterflies sticking and not closing properly, butterfly stops not adjusted
properly, or your overrun valves are opening when they shouldn’t. There’s even one possibility involving a solenoid
valve installed in the cruise control during a recall; see page 669.
When the idle gets above 1800 rpm or so, the overrun cutoff feature kicks in and shuts the fuelling off until the rpm
drops below 1100 or so, then it turns it back on. The resulting cycling of the engine will get your attention! People get
very concerned when this happens, thinking it must be something far more serious than simply the idle speed is set too
high, but that’s all it is.
AUXILIARY AIR VALVE: The auxiliary air valve (also called an “extra air valve” in Jaguar repair manuals) is in the
same housing that the idle adjustment screw is on, and is supposed to open when the engine is cold to keep the idle up.
It contains a bulb similar to those found in thermostats that protrudes down into the coolant rail on top of the B bank
head. A rod from this bulb pushes a piston up a cylinder against a spring, covering an opening in the side of the
cylinder that allows air into the engine.
Although they share the same housing, the idle adjustment screw and the cold idle function of the AAV are separate.
The screw obstructs one passage allowing idle air into the manifold, and the piston controlled by the bulb obstructs a
different passage allowing idle air into the manifold. Hence, if the cold idle piston jams wide open, closing the idle
adjustment screw will still usually not bring the warm idle down within reason.
The bulb may look similar to a thermostat bulb, but it is not the same; see the description of the operation of a
thermostat bulb on page 205. A thermostat goes from fully closed to fully open in only a few degrees; the AAV needs
to move gradually from open to shut over a range of 80°C or more. So, where the thermostat bulb has wax in it that
changes phase, the AAV bulb contains an oil; it probably works by simple thermal expansion. For more on this, visit
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xj-s/book/AAV.html
Michael Aiken says, “I believe there are many versions of the AAV depending on many variables and the correct one
for your model is necessary. My parts manual (which is for 87 to 89MY) shows no less than four part numbers for the
extra air valve for the V12: Two for up to SN 8S.57761 and two after 8S.57761. The other variable is emission code.”
Mike Morrin calls that “an example of the later parts books not showing the details of early cars. The June 1980 parts
book shows C42164 used initially on all cars, then progressively replaced for various markets between 8S.5203 and
8S.11800 with EAC1405 and EAC1590, which were in turn superceded by EAC2273. Interestingly, EAC2273 did not
supercede C42164.”
Based upon inspection of several part number AAV’s, it is apparent that the relationship between temperature and
piston location is the same for all. The bottom end of the bulbs are all marked “-30º”. The only difference between part
numbers is the configuration of the opening in the side of the cylinder that the piston slides over. By shaping this port
properly, the engine designer can provide whatever airflow/temperature relationship he needs. The port shapes used on
Jaguar V12’s actually vary considerably; the web site mentioned above includes photos and dimensions of ports from
various AAV’s.
There are two common failure modes for the AAV; the piston gets stuck, or the bulb gives out. If the piston gets stuck,
possible solutions are obvious: disconnect the outlet hose and spray a bunch of solvent or carb cleaner into it, or take it
off the car and soak it in solvent. Mike Morrin says, “Going along the non-destructive path, if you look down the bore,
you will see some smallish holes drilled in the piston. I managed to fit a long self-tapping screw into one of these, and
used it to pull the piston up against the spring a few hundred times, while applying WD40 to wash out the crud. It
seemed to work, and I have had no problems in the following 12 years.”
If the bulb gives out, chances are it will do so gradually, and the result will be that the piston sits lower and lower at a
given temperature. Craig Sawyers, who lives in the UK, hot-water-tested a new AAV and found that it was totally
closed by 80ºC. He also tested an old but “working” second-hand AAV that appeared to be of identical construction,
and it had the exact same sort of characteristics except shifted upward in temperature; if you extrapolate based on the
positions he measured up to the boiling point of water, it wouldn’t fully close until nearly 110ºC.