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wheel, for example) you’re still gonna be in a pickle putting the rebuilt distributor back on without tearing it back apart
or turning the crank while the distributor is out.
If you turn the crankshaft while the distributor is out, you face additional problems. The distributor turns once every
time the crankshaft turns twice, and therefore the distributor must not only be lined up facing 1A while the engine is at
10° Before Top Dead Center (BTDC) but it must be on the correct stroke. If not, the spark plugs will fire at the end of
the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke, and the motor will not run.
To get the setting right, cylinder 1A must be on the compression stroke when the distributor is installed pointing to 1A
on the cap. If you know in advance you may be turning the engine, it is easy enough to avoid problems. While the
distributor cap is off and the rotor is pointing at 1A and the crankshaft is at 10° BTDC, remove the oil filler cap. Reach
beyond the front edge of the chain and mark the camshaft gear itself (the camshaft gear turns at the same rate as the
distributor). You can use a dab of paint, or stake it, or whatever will give you a clear indication.
You might also want to mark the position of the base of the distributor, since it mounts on slotted holes. Ideally, the
base should be mounted so the correct timing is near the center of the range of the eccentric adjuster, but to begin with
it will be easier to put it back where it came from. Peter Smith: “I find that using typist’s white out to paint across
components can be helpful. It can be applied over slightly greasy surfaces and if precise alignment is necessary I can
draw on it with a biro.”
You can insert an allen wrench through the openings in the distributor and undo three screws and remove the distributor
as a unit. However, for the purposes of doing the marking mentioned above, it may be preferable to proceed with the
disassembly described below with the distributor still on the engine until you’ve removed enough parts to be able to
mark the bottom of the housing on the inside.
DISTRIBUTOR DISASSEMBLY: Remove the rotor arm; see page 125.
Remove the EFI trigger board or anti-flash shield (whichever). The biggest problem with removing the anti-flash
shield will be dropping the tiny screws and washers, but the trigger board causes more trouble. It is mounted with four
tiny plastic screws, and Jan Wikström reports that the screws get stuck to the metal; “On my own experience of three
distributors, you can expect to get two out intact. If you’re very careful.” He also reports that he has used metal screws
in a pinch with no apparent problems. When installing the plastic screws, maybe it would be a good idea to use anti-
seize compound, even though it looks silly on tiny plastic screws.
Richard Dowling dealt with the trigger board screws differently: “I retapped the holes to M4 (about 2 times stronger)
and fitted bigger nylon screws.”
Next, remove whatever is used to trigger the ignition; on 1982-89 cars, you need to remove a C-clip, then slide off a
wavy washer, then pry out a U-shaped pin. Finally, you need to slide off the iron star-shaped inductor rotor, being
careful not to damage it or deform the points. Even more importantly, don’t just pull upward on a sticky star rotor,
because you may stretch the springs in the centrifugal advance mechanism underneath. Here’s a method that seems to
work: Lift gently on the star rotor a little bit and insert the claw of a claw hammer under the star rotor. Rest the head of
the hammer on the edge of the distributor housing, but do not pry. While holding the star rotor in its slightly elevated
position with the claw hammer, tap downward on the center of the rotor carrier shaft with a plastic-surfaced hammer.
Once the end of the rotor carrier shaft is flush with the surface of the star rotor, if it still won’t simply slide off you can
position a small socket with an OD slightly smaller than the rotor carrier shaft on top and continue tapping.
On the pre-1982 cars, a plastic disk with 12 ferrite inserts was used; according to Jan Wikström, “Its hub is about an
inch long (estimated; I’ve never seen an intact one) and all beneath the disk. It’s a tight fit on the spindle and in its
keyway. And the disk, which is all you have to apply force to, is about 3/16 in thick near the hub. On an old car like
mine, the only way to get the disk out would be by breaking it up.”
Fortunately, John Nuttall found a better way: “I discovered a technique for removing the circular plastic timing rotor
which, according to Jan W in your book, often breaks under extraction. The idea is to undo the three screws which
hold the movable part of the distributor body to the base. This can be done with the rotor in place. These screws have
springs on them to allow the body to rotate when the vernier is turned. It is then possible to push upwards on the rotor