Hummer H1 (2002+). Manual - part 111

 

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Hummer H1 (2002+). Manual - part 111

 

 

 

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 Brake System  7-3

  

®

 

05745159

Some common causes of brake drag are:

• seized or sticking caliper piston

• caliper binding on bushings or pin slides

• incorrect length caliper mounting bolts (too long)

• loose caliper mounting bracket

• misassembled components

• misadjusted brakelight switch

• binding brake pedal

• master cylinder/hydroboost internal fault

• improperly adjusted parking brake

If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem may be related
to a blocked master cylinder compensator port or faulty hydro-
boost.

An improperly mounted or adjusted brakelight switch can pre-
vent full brake pedal return. The result will be the same as if
the cylinder compensator ports are blocked. In this case, the
brakes would be partially applied all the time causing drag.

 

Brake Fade

 

Brake fade is a product of overheating caused by brake drag.
However, brake overheating and subsequent fade can also be
caused by riding the brake pedal, making repeating high decel-
eration stops in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information in this section for
causes.

 

Pedal Pulsation

 

Pedal pulsation whenever the ABS is not active, is caused by
components that are loose, or beyond tolerance limits.

Disc brake rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness
variation are the primary causes of pulsation. Other causes are
loose calipers, and worn, damaged tires.

 

Brake Pull

 

A front pull condition could be the result of contaminated lin-
ing in one caliper, seized caliper piston, binding caliper, loose
caliper, loose or corroded slide pins, improper brakeshoes, or a
damaged rotor.

A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension component are
further causes of pull. A damaged front tire (bruised, ply sepa-
ration) can also cause pull.

Check the tires to be sure that they are inflated to the appropri-
ate tire pressure. It could be another cause of your vehicle
“pulling” to one side. 

A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condition is
where direction of pull changes after a few stops. The cause is
a combination of brake drag followed by fade at the dragging
brake unit.

As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so reduced that
fade occurs. If the opposite brake unit is still functioning nor-
mally, its braking effect is magnified. This causes pull to

switch direction in favor of the brake unit that is functioning
normally.

When diagnosing a change in pull condition, remember that
pull will return to the original direction if the dragging brake
unit is allowed to cool down (and is not seriously damaged).

 

Rear Brake Grab

 

Rear grab (or pull) is usually caused by contaminated lining,
bent or binding pads or improperly assembled components.
This is particularly true when only one rear wheel is involved.
However, when both rear wheels are affected, the master cylin-
der, or an improperly adjusted parking brake could be at fault.

 

Brakes Do Not Hold After Driving Through Deep 
Water Puddles

 

This condition is generally caused by water soaked lining. If
the lining is only wet, it can be dried by driving with the brakes
lightly applied for a mile or two. However, if the lining is both
wet and dirty, disassembly and cleaning will be necessary.

 

Brake Fluid Contamination

 

There are two basic causes of brake fluid contamination. The
first involves allowing dirt, debris, water, or other liquid mate-
rials to enter the cylinder reservoirs when the cover is off. The
second involves topping off, or filling the cylinder reservoirs
with a non-recommended fluid.

Brake fluid contaminated with only dirt or debris usually re-
tains a normal appearance. Generally, the foreign material will
remain suspended in the fluid and be visible. The fluid and for-
eign material can be removed from the reservoir with a suction
gun but only if the brakes have not been applied. If the brakes
are applied after contamination, system flushing will be re-
quired. The master cylinder will also have to be flushed or re-
placed if the contaminants cannot be removed. Foreign
material lodged in the reservoir compensator/return ports can
cause brake drag by restricting fluid return after brake applica-
tion.

Brake fluid contaminated by a non-recommended fluid, gener-
ally appears highly discolored, milky, oily looking, or foamy.
In some cases, it may even appear as if the fluid contains
sludge. 

 

However, be advised that brake fluid will darken

over time and occasionally be cloudy in appearance. These
are normal conditions and should not be mistaken for con-
tamination.

 

If some type of oil has been added to the system, the fluid will
separate into distinct layers. To verify this, drain off a sample
with a clean suction gun. Then pour the sample into a glass
container and observe fluid action. If the fluid separates into
distinct layers, it is definitely contaminated.

The only real correction for contamination by non-recom-
mended fluid is to flush the entire hydraulic system and replace
all the seals.

 

7-4

Brake System

 

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®

 

Brake Noise

 

Squeak/Squeal

 

The factory installed brakelining in Hummer vehicles is
made from asbestos free materials. These materials have
different operating characteristics than previous lining ma-
terials. Under certain conditions, asbestos free lining may
generate some squeak, groan or chirp noise. This noise is
considered normal and does not indicate a problem. The
only time inspection is necessary, is when noise becomes
constant or when grinding, scraping noises occur.

 

Constant brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that are
wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil. Glazed
linings and rotors with hard spots can also contribute to
squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded in the brake lining
can also cause squeak/squeal.

Loud brake squeak, squeal, scraping, or grinding sounds are a
sign of severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn com-
pletely through in spots, metal-to-metal contact occurs. If the
condition is allowed to continue, rotors can become so scored
that replacement is necessary.

 

Thump/Clunk

 

Thumping or clunk noises during braking are frequently 

 

not

 

caused by brake components. In many cases, such noises are
caused by loose or damaged steering, suspension, drive line, or
engine components. However, calipers that bind on the slide
surfaces can generate a thump or clunk noise. Loose adapter
bolts or halfshaft-to-rotor bolts will cause noise. 

 

Chatter/Shudder

 

Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn components,
or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard spots can also contrib-
ute to chatter. Additional causes of chatter are out-of-tolerance
rotors, brake lining not securely attached to the shoes, loose
wheel bearings and contaminated brake lining.

 

Brake Lining Contamination

 

Brake lining contamination is a product of leaking calipers,
driving through deep water puddles, or lining that has become
covered with grease or oil due to leaking axle seals.

 

Wheel and Tire Problems

 

Some conditions attributed to brake components may actually
be caused by a wheel or tire problem.

A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and pull. A
worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.

Severely worn tires with little or no tread left can produce a
grab-like condition as the tire loses and recovers traction.

Flat-spotted tires can cause vibration and wheel tramp and gen-
erate shudder during brake operation.

A tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise or ply sepa-
ration can cause pull and vibration.

 

Diagnosing Parking Brake Problems

 

Parking Brake Problem Causes

 

In most cases, the actual cause of an improperly functioning
parking brake (too loose/too tight/won’t hold), can be traced to
a rear brake component.

 

The leading cause of improper parking brake operation, is
excessive clearance between the brake pads and the rotor
surface. Excessive clearance is a result of lining and/or ro-
tor wear or inoperative adjuster components.

 

Inspect and adjust parking brake lever or linkage as necessary. 

 

BRAKE SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING

 

Parking Brake Does Not Hold Vehicle

 

1.

Check parking brake adjustment and ensure linkage and 
cables operate freely. Adjust parking brake lever and/or 
cables or replace damaged and worn parts.

2.

Inspect rear brake caliper brake pads for serviceability.
Minimum brake lining thickness is 1/8 in. (3.2 mm).
Replace all rear brake pads if any pad does not meet
thickness specifications.

3.

Check caliper for binding or dragging. Check for binding
caliper guide pins. 

 

Low or Spongy Brake Pedal on First Application 
or Pedal Goes to Floor

 

CAUTION: 

 

The HUMMER is equipped with DOT 3 brake

fluid.

 

 Do not mix with other brake fluids

 

. Failure to use the

proper brake fluid will damage the brake system.

 

WARNING:  Always wear eye protection when bleeding
brakes. Failure to do this may cause personal injury if
brake fluid comes in contact with eyes.

 

_____________________________________________________________

 

 Brake System  7-5

 

 

®

 

05745159

1.

Remove master cylinder cover and visually check reser-
voirs for low fluid level or contamination.

a.

If fluid is contaminated, flush system with clean brake
fluid.

b.

If fluid is low, check for worn brake pads, observe for
leakage, broken, cracked or kinked lines, worn master
cylinder, etc. Replace any worn parts. Add DOT 3 as
needed.

2.

Check hydro-boost. Depress brake pedal several times,
with engine off, to exhaust accumulator pressure. Depress
brake pedal and start engine.

a.

Brake pedal should fall, then push back against opera-
tor's foot.

b.

Perform pressure test (Section 8). 

c.

Replace hydro-boost if not operating properly.

3.

Bleed master cylinder then bleed brakes.

 

Decreased Brake Pedal Travel or Slow Return

 

1.

Check for worn brake pedal return spring. Replace if 
worn.

2.

Check brake pedal bushings for signs of wear or binding.
Replace if worn and lubricate as needed.

3.

Check for kinked or damaged brake lines which may
restrict brake fluid. Replace any damaged lines.

4.

Check hydro-boost. Depress brake pedal several times,
with engine off, to exhaust accumulator pressure. Depress
brake pedal and start engine.

a.

Brake pedal should fall, then push back against opera-
tor's foot.

b.

Perform pressure test (Section 8).

c.

Replace hydro-boost if not operating properly.

5.

Check brake calipers for binding as a result of corrosion or
dirt. Check brake rotors for free movement. If rotors do
not move freely, remove calipers and clean caliper guide
pins.

6.

Check parking brake cable for proper operation and
adjustment. Repair as required.    

 

Excessive Pedal Pressure Required to Stop 
Vehicle

 

1.

Remove master cylinder cover and visually check reser-
voir for low fluid level or contamination.

a.

If fluid is contaminated, flush system with clean brake 
fluid.

b.

If fluid is low, check for worn brake pads, observe for 
leakage, broken, cracked or kinked lines, worn master 
cylinder, etc. Replace any worn parts. 

2.

Check fluid in power steering pump reservoir. Fill fluid to
proper level (Section 1).

3.

Check serpentine belt tension. Replace belt (Section 8) if
necessary.

4.

Check brake pads for proper installation, contamination,
or distortion. Check brake pads for excessive wear.
Minimum brake lining thickness is 1/8 in. (3.2 mm).
Replace brake pads as axle sets (front or rear) if any pad
does not meet specifications

 

NOTE: 

 

To preserve even braking, both calipers must be in

equal condition.

5.

Check brake calipers for binding as a result of corrosion or
dirt. Check brake rotors for free movement. If rotors do
not move freely, remove calipers and clean caliper guide
pins.

6.

Check for frozen piston in brake caliper. If inner pad is not
worn to limit, but piston cannot be retracted, rebuild or
replace both calipers.

7.

Check for pinched or kinked supply and return lines to
hydro-boost. Reposition or replace any damaged lines.

8.

Check for damaged brake lines. Replace any damaged
brake lines.

9.

Check for malfunctioning hydro-boost. Depress brake
pedal several times, with engine off, to exhaust
accumulator pressure. Depress brake pedal and start
engine.

a.

Brake pedal should fall, then push back against opera-
tor's foot.

b.

Perform pressure test (Section 8). 

c.

Replace hydro-boost if not operating properly.

10. Check power steering system. Refer to step 6 in the

Diagnostic portion of 

 

Hard Steering 

 

in Section 8.

 

Noisy Brakes

 

1.

Check brake pads for proper installation, contamination, 
or distortion. Check brake pads for excessive wear. Mini-
mum brake lining thickness is 1/8 in. (3.2 mm). Replace 
brake pads as sets (front or rear) if any pad does not meet 
specifications. Make sure pads are flat and smooth.

2.

Check rotor for glazing or scoring. Turn the rotor if glazed
or scored. Do not exceed the minimum thickness shown
on the inside of the rotor hat section. It is not
recommended that rotors be turned when spotted or heat
checked.

3.

 Check halfshaft mounting.

a.

Apply a thread-locking compound to the halfshaft and
rotor-to-output flange capscrews, or use bolts with
pre-applied compound, and torque to 57 lb-ft (77
N•m).

b.

Apply a thread-locking compound to the halfshaft
retaining capscrew (in geared hub) and torque to
40 lb-ft (54 N•m). Tighten any loose fasteners.

 

7-6

Brake System

 

______________________________________________________________

 

 

®

 

Brake Chatter

 

On some new vehicles, roughness or a chatter sound from the
brakes may be noticed during low speed brake application. The
noise is a result of the lining edges of an unburnished brake pad
rubbing against the rotor. Burnishing is a part of the vehicle
break-in process which fully seats and conditions new brake
pads. Although annoying, the brake noise is not detrimental to
vehicle safety or performance, and will eventually be elimi-
nated through normal brake use.

If chatter or roughness persists on a new vehicle, then chamfer-
ing of the brake pad lining edges can be performed. Chamfer-
ing of the brake pad is done by slightly grinding or filing the
edge of the pad lining on a grinding wheel.

To complete the chamfering procedure:

1.

Remove the eight service brake pads from the vehicle. 
Mark each pad for vehicle and caliper location. 

2.

Chamfer (grind or file) the brake pad lining edges. Ensure both
brake pad lining edges are chamfered on each of the eight
brake pads (Figure 7-2). Make sure pads are flat and even.

3.

Install eight service brake pads at the original vehicle and
caliper location.

4.

Operate vehicle and check brakes for proper operation.

 

Figure 7-2:   Chamfering Brake Pad 

 

Booster or Pedal Pulsation

 

1.

Check hydro-boost. Depress brake pedal several times, 
with engine off, to exhaust accumulator pressure. Depress 
brake pedal and start engine.

a.

Brake pedal should fall, then push back against opera-
tor's foot.

b.

Perform pressure test (Section 8). 

c.

Replace hydro-boost if not operating properly.

 

2.

Check halfshaft and rotor mounting for missing or loose capscrews.
Replace inclined-cam washers, apply a thread locking compound and
torque capscrews to 57 lb-ft (77 N•m).

 

3.

Check brake rotor lateral run-out. Refinish any rotor not
meeting specifications. Refer to 

 

Checking Lateral Runout

 

in this section for more information.

 

Erratic Braking Action

 

1.

Check for correct tire pressure. 

 

2.

Check brake pads for binding as a result of corrosion or dirt.
Check brake pads for excessive wear. Minimum brake lining
thickness is 1/8 in. (3.2 mm). Replace brake pads as sets
(front or rear) if any pad does not meet specifications.

 

3.

Check brake calipers for binding as a result of corrosion or
dirt. Check for seized or binding brake caliper pistons.
Repair any binding or seized caliper pistons. Check brake
rotors for free movement. If rotors do not move freely,
remove calipers and clean caliper guide pins  (Figure 7-3).

 

NOTE: 

 

Calipers pins must be replaced in pairs. Caliper pins

and bushing should be lubricated with an approved brake com-
ponent lubricant.

4.

Check for leaking caliper piston seals. Replace or rebuild
any calipers with leaking seals. 

5.

Check rotor for glazing or scoring. Turn the rotor if glazed
or scored. Do not exceed the minimum thickness shown on
the inside of the rotor hat section. It is not recommended
that rotors be turned when spotted or heat checked.

6.

Check for damaged brake lines. Replace any damaged
brake lines.

7.

Check ABS operation. Check ABS warning lamp.
Perform a 20 mph hard deceleration on a slippery surface
(sand, gravel, snow, etc). If one or more wheels lock repair
the ABS. Refer to ABS diagnostics in this secion.

8.

Check toe adjustment. Adjust toe, if necessary. Refer to
Section 5.

 

Figure 7-3:   Brake Caliper and Brake Pads

BRAKE PAD LINING EDGE

AREA TO BE REMOVED BY

BRAKE PAD 

LINING EDGE

CHAMFERING (GRINDING)

VIEW DEPICTS BRAKE PAD 

AFTER BEING CHAMFERED

18°

1/4”

SIDE VIEW OF BRAKE

PAD LINING EDGE

S07-043

ADAPTER

BRAKE

COOLING

FINS

CALIPER

PINS

CALIPER

COUPLING

BRAKE 

BRAKE PAD

ROTOR

GUIDE

LINE/HOSE

AND COPPER

WASHER

PAD

BUSHING

AND

SLEEVE

 

4-1-00

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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