Rover 820, 825, 827. Repair Manual

MOT Test Checks

REF•1

This is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test.

Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the same
standard as the professional MOT tester. However, working through
the following checks will enable you to identify any problem areas
before submitting the vehicle for the test.

Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the tester

has discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of such
discretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative or
friend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If the
vehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester may
be more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle is
scruffy and apparently neglected.

It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here,

based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standards
are becoming increasingly stringent, although there are some
exemptions for older vehicles. For full details obtain a copy of the Haynes
publication Pass the MOT! (available from stockists of Haynes manuals).

An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks.

The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:

Handbrake

M Test the operation of the handbrake.
Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicates
incorrect brake or cable adjustment.
M Check that the handbrake cannot be
released by tapping the lever sideways. Check
the security of the lever mountings.

Footbrake

M Depress the brake pedal and check that it
does not creep down to the floor, indicating a
master cylinder fault. Release the pedal, wait
a few seconds, then depress it again. If the
pedal travels nearly to the floor before firm
resistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair is
necessary. If the pedal feels spongy, there is
air in the hydraulic system which must be
removed by bleeding.

M Check that the brake pedal is secure and in
good condition. Check also for signs of fluid
leaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, which
would indicate failed seals in the brake master
cylinder.
M Check the servo unit (when applicable) by
operating the brake pedal several times, then
keeping the pedal depressed and starting the
engine. As the engine starts, the pedal will
move down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose or
the servo itself may be faulty.

Steering wheel and column

M Examine the steering wheel for fractures or
looseness of the hub, spokes or rim.
M Move the steering wheel from side to side
and then up and down. Check that the
steering wheel is not loose on the column,
indicating wear or a loose retaining nut.
Continue moving the steering wheel as before,
but also turn it slightly from left to right.
M Check that the steering wheel is not loose
on the column, and that there is no abnormal

movement of the steering wheel, indicating
wear in the column support bearings or
couplings.

Windscreen and mirrors

M The windscreen must be free of cracks or
other significant damage within the driver’s
field of view. (Small stone chips are
acceptable.) Rear view mirrors must be
secure, intact, and capable of being adjusted.

Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT

Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S
SEAT

Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
ON THE GROUND

Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
RAISED AND THE
WHEELS FREE TO
TURN

Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S
EXHAUST EMISSION
SYSTEM

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REF•2

MOT Test Checks

Seat belts and seats

Note: The following checks are applicable to
all seat belts, front and rear.

M Examine the webbing of all the belts
(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious
fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten
each belt to check the buckles. If applicable,
check the retracting mechanism. Check the
security of all seat belt mountings accessible
from inside the vehicle.
M The front seats themselves must be
securely attached and the backrests must
lock in the upright position.

Doors

M Both front doors must be able to be opened
and closed from outside and inside, and must
latch securely when closed.

Vehicle identification

M Number plates must be in good condition,
secure and legible, with letters and numbers
correctly spaced – spacing at (A) should be
twice that at (B).

M The VIN plate and/or homologation plate
must be legible.

Electrical equipment

M Switch on the ignition and check the
operation of the horn.
M Check the windscreen washers and wipers,
examining the wiper blades; renew damaged
or perished blades. Also check the operation
of the stop-lights.

M Check the operation of the sidelights and
number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors
must be secure, clean and undamaged.
M Check the operation and alignment of the
headlights. The headlight reflectors must not
be tarnished and the lenses must be
undamaged.
M Switch on the ignition and check the
operation of the direction indicators (including
the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard
warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and
stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it
does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the
rear light cluster.
M Check the operation of the rear foglight(s),
including the warning light on the instrument
panel or in the switch.

Footbrake

M Examine the master cylinder, brake pipes
and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings,
corrosion or other damage.

M The fluid reservoir must be secure and the
fluid level must be between the upper (A) and
lower (B) markings.

M Inspect both front brake flexible hoses for
cracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn the
steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the
hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any
part of the steering or suspension mechanism.
With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check
the hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.

Steering and suspension

M Have your assistant turn the steering wheel
from side to side slightly, up to the point where
the steering gear just begins to transmit this
movement to the roadwheels. Check for
excessive free play between the steering
wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear or
insecurity of the steering column joints, the
column-to-steering gear coupling, or the
steering gear itself.
M Have your assistant turn the steering wheel
more vigorously in each direction, so that the
roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,
examine all the steering joints, linkages,
fittings and attachments. Renew any
component that shows signs of wear or
damage. On vehicles with power steering,
check the security and condition of the
steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.
M Check that the vehicle is standing level,
and at approximately the correct ride height.

Shock absorbers

M Depress each corner of the vehicle in turn,
then release it. The vehicle should rise and
then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle
continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber
is defective. A shock absorber which has
seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.

Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE
GROUND

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MOT Test Checks

REF•3

Exhaust system

M Start the engine. With your assistant
holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the
entire system for leaks. Repair or renew
leaking sections.

Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,
and securely support it on axle stands.
Position the stands clear of the suspension
assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are
clear of the ground and that the steering
can be turned from lock to lock.

Steering mechanism

M Have your assistant turn the steering from
lock to lock. Check that the steering turns
smoothly, and that no part of the steering
mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls
any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body
structure.
M Examine the steering rack rubber gaiters
for damage or insecurity of the retaining clips.
If power steering is fitted, check for signs of
damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or
connections. Also check for excessive
stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing
split pin or locking device, or severe corrosion
of the body structure within 30 cm of any
steering component attachment point.

Front and rear suspension and
wheel bearings

M Starting at the front right-hand side, grasp
the roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock
positions and shake it vigorously. Check for
free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,
suspension balljoints, or suspension mount-
ings, pivots and attachments.
M Now grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions and repeat the previous
inspection. Spin the wheel, and check for
roughness or tightness of the front wheel
bearing.

M If excess free play is suspected at a
component pivot point, this can be confirmed
by using a large screwdriver or similar tool and
levering between the mounting and the
component attachment. This will confirm
whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its
retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the bolt
holes can often become elongated).

M Carry out all the above checks at the other
front wheel, and then at both rear wheels.

Springs and shock absorbers

M Examine the suspension struts (when
applicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,
or damage to the casing. Also check the
security of the mounting points.
M If coil springs are fitted, check that the
spring ends locate in their seats, and that the
spring is not corroded, cracked or broken.
M If leaf springs are fitted, check that all
leaves are intact, that the axle is securely
attached to each spring, and that there is no
deterioration of the spring eye mountings,
bushes, and shackles.

M The same general checks apply to vehicles
fitted with other suspension types, such as
torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.
Ensure that all mountings and attachments are
secure, that there are no signs of excessive
wear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulic
types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged
pipes.
M Inspect the shock absorbers for signs of
serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the
mounting bushes or attachments, or damage
to the body of the unit.

Driveshafts
(fwd vehicles only)

M Rotate each front wheel in turn and inspect
the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or
damage. Also check that each driveshaft is
straight and undamaged.

Braking system

M If possible without dismantling, check
brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure
that the friction lining material has not worn
excessively, (A) and that the discs are not
fractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).

M Examine all the rigid brake pipes
underneath the vehicle, and the flexible
hose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafing
or insecurity of the pipes, and for signs of
bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or
deterioration of the flexible hoses.
M Look for signs of fluid leaks at the brake
calipers or on the brake backplates. Repair or
renew leaking components.
M Slowly spin each wheel, while your
assistant depresses and releases the
footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating
and does not bind when the pedal is released.

Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED
AND THE WHEELS FREE TO
TURN

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REF•4

MOT Test Checks

M Examine the handbrake mechanism,
checking for frayed or broken cables,
excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of
the linkage. Check that the mechanism works
on each relevant wheel, and releases fully,
without binding.
M It is not possible to test brake efficiency
without special equipment, but a road test can
be carried out later to check that the vehicle
pulls up in a straight line.

Fuel and exhaust systems

M Inspect the fuel tank (including the filler
cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All
components must be secure and free from
leaks.
M Examine the exhaust system over its entire
length, checking for any damaged, broken or
missing mountings, security of the retaining
clamps and rust or corrosion.

Wheels and tyres

M Examine the sidewalls and tread area of
each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,
bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure
of the ply or cord due to wear or damage.
Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated
on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound and

properly seated, and that the wheel is not
distorted or damaged.
M Check that the tyres are of the correct size
for the vehicle, that they are of the same size
and type on each axle, and that the pressures
are correct.
M Check the tyre tread depth. The legal
minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over
at least three-quarters of the tread width.
Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect
front wheel alignment.

Body corrosion

M Check the condition of the entire vehicle
structure for signs of corrosion in load-bearing
areas. (These include chassis box sections,
side sills, cross-members, pillars, and all
suspension, steering, braking system and
seat belt mountings and anchorages.) Any
corrosion which has seriously reduced the
thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to
cause the vehicle to fail. In this case
professional repairs are likely to be needed.
M Damage or corrosion which causes sharp
or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed
will also cause the vehicle to fail.

Petrol models

M Have the engine at normal operating
temperature, and make sure that it is in good
tune (ignition system in good order, air filter
element clean, etc).
M Before any measurements are carried out,
raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,
and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allow

the engine speed to return to idle, and watch
for smoke emissions from the exhaust
tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much
too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible
black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more
than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule
of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt
(engine wear) while black smoke signifies
unburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or other
carburettor or fuel system fault).
M An exhaust gas analyser capable of
measuring carbon monoxide (CO) and
hydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an
instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a
local garage may agree to perform the check
for a small fee.

CO emissions (mixture)

M At the time of writing, the maximum CO
level at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used after
August 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.
From January 1996 a much tighter limit
(around 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equipped
vehicles first used from August 1992. If the
CO level cannot be reduced far enough to
pass the test (and the fuel and ignition
systems are otherwise in good condition) then
the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some
problem in the fuel injection system or
catalytic converter (as applicable).

HC emissions

M With the CO emissions within limits, HC
emissions must be no more than 1200 ppm
(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this test
at idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000 rpm;
if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less, this
counts as a pass.
M Excessive HC emissions can be caused by
oil being burnt, but they are more likely to be
due to unburnt fuel.

Diesel models

M The only emission test applicable to Diesel
engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke
density. The test involves accelerating the
engine several times to its maximum
unloaded speed.

Note: It is of the utmost importance that the
engine timing belt is in good condition before
the test is carried out.

M Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty
air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional
advice may be needed to find the cause.

Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST
EMISSION SYSTEM

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General Repair Procedures

REF•5

Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work

is carried out on the car or its components,
observe the following procedures and
instructions. This will assist in carrying out the
operation efficiently and to a professional
standard of workmanship.

Joint mating faces and gaskets

When separating components at their

mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.

Where a gasket is used between the mating

faces of two components, a new one must be
fitted on reassembly; fit it dry unless otherwise
stated in the repair procedure. Make sure that
the mating faces are clean and dry, with all
traces of old gasket removed. When cleaning a
joint face, use a tool which is unlikely to score
or damage the face, and remove any burrs or
nicks with an oilstone or fine file.

Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned

with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.

Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes

are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.

Oil seals

Oil seals can be removed by levering them

out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers or
some similar device in order to pull the seal free.

Whenever an oil seal is removed from its

working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.

The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily

damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original
sealing surface of the component cannot be
restored, and the manufacturer has not made
provision for slight relocation of the seal
relative to the sealing surface, the component
should be renewed.

Protect the lips of the seal from any surface

which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.

Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be

fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.

Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the

appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is

unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with
its face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).

Screw threads and fastenings

Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a

common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.

Studs are usually removed by locking two

nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a stud extractor. Always ensure that a
blind tapped hole is completely free from oil,
grease, water or other fluid before installing
the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause
the housing to crack due to the hydraulic
action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.

When tightening a castellated nut to accept

a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken
the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated
in the repair procedure.

When checking or retightening a nut or bolt

to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.

For some screw fastenings, notably

cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench
settings are no longer specified for the latter
stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being
called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque
wrench setting will be applied to the
bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed
by one or more stages of tightening through
specified angles.

Locknuts, locktabs and washers

Any fastening which will rotate against a

component or housing during tightening
should always have a washer between it and
the relevant component or housing.

Spring or split washers should always be

renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.

Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-

critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose their

effectiveness after long periods of use, and
should then be renewed as a matter of course.

Split pins must always be replaced with

new ones of the correct size for the hole.

When thread-locking compound is found

on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.

Special tools

Some repair procedures in this manual

entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring com-
pressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the manu-
facturer’s special tools are described, and are
shown in use. In some instances, where no
alternative is possible, it has been necessary
to resort to the use of a manufacturer’s tool,
and this has been done for reasons of safety
as well as the efficient completion of the repair
operation. Unless you are highly-skilled and
have a thorough understanding of the
procedures described, never attempt to
bypass the use of any special tool when the
procedure described specifies its use. Not
only is there a very great risk of personal
injury, but expensive damage could be
caused to the components involved.

Environmental considerations

When disposing of used engine oil, brake

fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department, or the
National Rivers Authority, for further advice.

With the universal tightening-up of legis-

lation regarding the emission of environmen-
tally-harmful substances from motor vehicles,
most vehicles have tamperproof devices fitted
to the main adjustment points of the fuel
system. These devices are primarily designed
to prevent unqualified persons from adjusting
the fuel/air mixture, with the chance of a
consequent increase in toxic emissions. If
such devices are found during servicing or
overhaul, they should, wherever possible, be
renewed or refitted in accordance with the
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.

Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.

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Introduction

A selection of good tools is a fundamental

requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.
For the owner who does not possess any,
their purchase will prove a considerable
expense, offsetting some of the savings made
by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that
the tools purchased meet the relevant national
safety standards and are of good quality, they
will last for many years and prove an
extremely worthwhile investment.

To help the average owner to decide which

tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed in this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings: Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with
the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, and
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be
built up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools from the Special category when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.

Maintenance and minor repair
tool kit

The tools given in this list should be

considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the
other); although more expensive than open-
ended ones, they do give the advantages of
both types of spanner.
M Combination spanners: 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13,

14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21, 22, 24 & 26 mm

M Adjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx)

M Transmission drain plug key

M Set of feeler gauges

M Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert)

M Spark plug gap adjustment tool

M Brake bleed nipple spanner

M Brake adjuster spanner

M Screwdrivers: Flat blade and cross blade –

approx 100 mm long x 6 mm dia

M Combination pliers

M Hacksaw (junior)

M Tyre pump

M Tyre pressure gauge

M Grease gun

M Oil can

M Oil filter removal tool

M Fine emery cloth

M Wire brush (small)

M Funnel (medium size)

Repair and overhaul tool kit

These tools are virtually essential for

anyone undertaking any major repairs to a
motor vehicle, and are additional to those
given in the Maintenance and minor repair list.
Included in this list is a comprehensive set of
sockets. Although these are expensive, they
will be found invaluable as they are so
versatile - particularly if various drives are
included in the set. We recommend the half-
inch square-drive type, as this can be used
with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you
cannot afford a socket set, even bought
piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box
spanners are a useful alternative.

The tools in this list will occasionally need

to be supplemented by tools from the Special
list:
M Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in

previous list

M Reversible ratchet drive (for use with

sockets) (see illustration)

M Extension piece, 250 mm (for use with

sockets)

M Universal joint (for use with sockets)

M Torque wrench (for use with sockets)

M Self-locking grips

M Ball pein hammer

M Soft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or

rubber)

M Screwdrivers:

Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),
and narrow (electrician’s) types
Cross blade - Long & sturdy, and short

(chubby) types

M Pliers:

Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician’s)
Circlip (internal and external)

M Cold chisel - 25 mm

M Scriber

M Scraper

M Centre-punch

M Pin punch

M Hacksaw

M Brake hose clamp

M Brake bleeding kit

M Selection of twist drills

M Steel rule/straight-edge

M Allen keys (inc. splined/Torx type) (see

illustrations)

M Selection of files

M Wire brush

M Axle stands

M Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)

M Light with extension lead

Special tools

The tools in this list are those which are not

used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy
many of these tools. Where this is the case,
you could consider clubbing together with
friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a
joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against
a deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large
range of special tools for hire at modest rates.

The following list contains only those tools

and instruments freely available to the public,
and not those special tools produced by the
vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer
network. You will find occasional references
to these manufacturers’ special tools in the
text of this manual. Generally, an alternative
method of doing the job without the vehicle
manufacturers’ special tool is given. However,
sometimes there is no alternative to using
them. Where this is the case and the relevant
tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will
have to entrust the work to a franchised
garage.
M Valve spring compressor (see illustration)

M Valve grinding tool

M Piston ring compressor (see illustration)

M Piston ring removal/installation tool (see

illustration)

M Cylinder bore hone (see illustration)

M Balljoint separator

M Coil spring compressors (where applicable)

M Two/three-legged hub and bearing puller

(see illustration)

REF•6

Tools and Working Facilities

Sockets and reversible ratchet drive

Spline bit set

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REF•8

Tools and Working Facilities

M Impact screwdriver

M Micrometer and/or vernier calipers (see

illustrations)

M Dial gauge (see illustration)

M Universal electrical multi-meter

M Cylinder compression gauge

(see illustration)

M Clutch plate alignment set (see

illustration)

M Brake shoe steady spring cup removal tool

(see illustration)

M Bush and bearing removal/installation set

(see illustration)

M Stud extractors (see illustration)

M Tap and die set (see illustration)

M Lifting tackle

M Trolley jack

Buying tools

For practically all tools, a tool factor is the

best source, since he will have a very
comprehensive range compared with the
average garage or accessory shop. Having
said that, accessory shops often offer
excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it
pays to shop around.

Remember, you don’t have to buy the most

expensive items on the shelf, but it is always
advisable to steer clear of the very cheap
tools. There are plenty of good tools around at

reasonable prices, but always aim to
purchase items which meet the relevant
national safety standards. If in doubt, ask the
proprietor or manager of the shop for advice
before making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of tools

Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is

necessary to keep the tools in a clean and
serviceable condition. After use, always wipe
off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a
clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.
Never leave them lying around after they have
been used. A simple tool rack on the garage
or workshop wall for items such as
screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store
all normal spanners and sockets in a metal
box. Any measuring instruments, gauges,
meters, etc, must be carefully stored where
they cannot be damaged or become rusty.

Take a little care when tools are used.

Hammer heads inevitably become marked,
and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their
blades from time to time. A little timely
attention with emery cloth or a file will soon
restore items like this to a good serviceable
finish.

Working facilities

Not to be forgotten when discussing tools

is the workshop itself. If anything more than
routine maintenance is to be carried out,
some form of suitable working area becomes
essential.

It is appreciated that many an owner-

mechanic is forced by circumstances to
remove an engine or similar item without the
benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done
this, any repairs should always be done under
the cover of a roof.

Wherever possible, any dismantling should

be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at
a suitable working height.

Any workbench needs a vice; one with a

jaw opening of 100 mm is suitable for most
jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean
dry storage space is also required for tools, as
well as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids,
touch-up paints and so on, which become
necessary.

Another item which may be required, and

which has a much more general usage, is an
electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8
mm. This, together with a good range of twist
drills, is virtually essential for fitting
accessories.

Last, but not least, always keep a supply of

old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags
available, and try to keep any working area as
clean as possible.

Bush and bearing removal/installation set

Stud extractor set

Tap and die set

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Buying Spare Parts & Vehicle Identification Numbers

REF•9

Buying spare parts

Spare parts are available from many

sources, including maker’s appointed
garages, accessory shops, and motor factors.
To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, it
will sometimes be necessary to quote the
vehicle identification number. If possible, it
can also be useful to take the old parts along
for positive identification. Items such as
starter motors and alternators may be
available under a service exchange scheme -
any parts returned should always be clean.

Our advice regarding spare part sources is

as follows.

Officially-appointed garages

This is the best source of parts which are

peculiar to your car, and are not otherwise
generally available (eg badges, interior trim,
certain body panels, etc). It is also the only
place at which you should buy parts if the
vehicle is still under warranty.

Accessory shops

These are very good places to buy

materials and components needed for the
maintenance of your car (oil, air and fuel
filters, spark plugs, light bulbs, drivebelts, oils
and greases, brake pads, touch-up paint, etc).
Components of this nature sold by a
reputable shop are of the same standard as
those used by the car manufacturer.

Besides components, these shops also sell

tools and general accessories, usually have
convenient opening hours, charge lower
prices, and can often be found not far from
home. Some accessory shops have parts
counters where the components needed for
almost any repair job can be purchased or
ordered.

Motor factors

Good factors will stock all the more

important components which wear out
comparatively quickly and can sometimes
supply individual components needed for the
overhaul of a larger assembly (eg brake seals
and hydraulic parts, bearing shells, pistons,
valves, alternator brushes). They may also
handle work such as cylinder block reboring,
crankshaft regrinding and balancing, etc.

Tyre and exhaust specialists

These outlets may be independent or

members of a local or national chain. They
frequently offer competitive prices when
compared with a main dealer or local garage,
but it will pay to obtain several quotes before
making a decision. When researching prices,
also ask what ‘extras’ may be added - for
instance, fitting a new valve and balancing the
wheel are both commonly charged on top of
the price of a new tyre.

Other sources

Beware of parts or materials obtained from

market stalls, car boot sales or similar outlets.
Such items are not invariably sub-standard,
but there is little chance of compensation if
they do prove unsatisfactory. In the case of
safety-critical components such as brake
pads there is the risk not only of financial loss
but also of an accident causing injury or
death.

Second-hand components or assemblies

obtained from a car breaker can be a good
buy in some circumstances, but this sort of
purchase is best made by the experienced
DIY mechanic.

Vehicle identification
numbers

Modifications are a continuing and

unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture,
quite apart from major model changes. Spare
parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a
numerical basis, the individual vehicle identifi-
cation numbers being essential to correct
identification of the component concerned.

When ordering spare parts, always give as

much information as possible. Quote the
vehicle model, year of manufacture, body and
engine numbers as appropriate.

The vehicle identification plate is located on

the bonnet lock platform behind the right-hand
headlight on early models, and on the left-hand
door pillar below the door lock striker pin on
later models. In addition to many other details,
it carries the Vehicle Identification Number
(VIN), maximum vehicle weight information,
and codes for interior trim and body colours.

The Vehicle Identification Number is given

on the vehicle identification plate. On later
models, it is also located on a plate visible
through the left-hand side of the windscreen

The body number and paint code numbers

are located on the vehicle identification plate.

The engine number location is dependent

on the engine type. On 4-cylinder M-series
engines (pre-1992 model year) the engine
number is stamped on the rear face of the
cylinder block, below the cylinder head. On
4-cylinder T-series engines (1992 model year
onwards) the engine number is stamped on a
plate on the forward facing side of the cylinder
block just above the sump flange.

On V6 engines, the engine number is

stamped on the face of the cylinder block
forward facing bank, adjacent to the timing
belt cover.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

REF•10

Fault Finding

Engine

Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start

Engine rotates but will not start

Engine difficult to start when cold

Engine difficult to start when hot

Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagement

Engine starts but stops immediately

Engine idles erratically

Engine misfires at idle speed

Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range

Engine hesitates on acceleration

Engine stalls

Engine lacks power

Engine backfires

Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running

Engine runs-on after switching off

Engine noises

Cooling system

Overheating

Overcooling

External coolant leakage

Internal coolant leakage

Corrosion

Fuel and exhaust systems

Excessive fuel consumption

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour

Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system

Clutch

Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance

Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in vehicle
speed)

Judder as clutch is engaged

Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal

Manual transmission

Noisy in neutral with engine running

Noisy in one particular gear

Difficulty engaging gears

Jumps out of gear

Vibration

Lubricant leaks

Automatic transmission

Fluid leakage

Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell

General gear selection problems

Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator fully
depressed

Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral

Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in
forward or reverse gears

Driveshafts

Clicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)

Vibration when accelerating or decelerating

Braking system

Vehicle pulls to one side under braking

Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied

Excessive brake pedal travel

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed

Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle

Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking

Brakes binding

Rear wheels locking under normal braking

Suspension and steering systems

Vehicle pulls to one side

Wheel wobble and vibration

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during
braking

Wandering or general instability

Excessively-stiff steering

Excessive play in steering

Lack of power assistance

Tyre wear excessive

Electrical system

Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few days

Ignition warning light remains illuminated with engine running

Ignition warning light fails to come on

Lights inoperative

Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic

Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation

Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation

Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

Central locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Fault Finding

REF•11

The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according

to the recommended service schedules should not have to use this
section of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such
that, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are
inspected or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is
comparatively rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result of
sudden failure, but develop over a period of time. Major mechanical
failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic symptoms
over hundreds or even thousands of miles. Those components which
do occasionally fail without warning are often small and easily carried
in the vehicle.

With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begin

investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, a
little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in
curing a fault (or its symptoms), but will be none the wiser if the fault
recurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than was
necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more
satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period
preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual
smells, etc - and remember that failure of components such as fuses or
spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.

The pages which follow provide an easy reference guide to the more

common problems which may occur during the operation of the
vehicle. These problems and their possible causes are grouped under

headings denoting various components or systems, such as Engine,
Cooling system, etc. The Chapter and/or Section which deals with the
problem is also shown in brackets. Whatever the fault, certain basic
principles apply. These are as follows:

Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you know

what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly
important if you are investigating a fault for someone else, who may
not have described it very accurately.

Don’t overlook the obvious. For example, if the vehicle won’t start, is

there petrol in the tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this
particular point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical
fault is indicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the
test gear.

Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with a

fully-charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the
underlying cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the same
way. Similarly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will get
you moving again, but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it
wasn’t simply an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be established
and corrected.

Don’t take anything for granted. Particularly, don’t forget that a

“new” component may itself be defective (especially if it’s been rattling
around in the boot for months), and don’t leave components out of a
fault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or recently fitted.
When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you’ll probably realise
that all the evidence was there from the start.

Engine

Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start

Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 5).

Battery discharged or faulty (Chapter 5).

Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit (Chap-
ter 5).

Defective starter solenoid or switch (Chapter 5).

Defective starter motor (Chapter 5).

Starter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken (Chap-
ter 5).

Engine earth strap broken or disconnected (Chapter 5).

Automatic transmission not in Park/Neutral position, or selector
lever position sensor faulty (Chapter 7, Part B).

Engine rotates but will not start

Fuel tank empty.

Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5).

Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 5).

Ignition components damp or damaged (Chapters 1 and 5).

Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the ignition circuit
(Chapters 1 and 5).

Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).

Low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive) (Chapter 2,
Part A, B or C).

Engine difficult to start when cold

Battery discharged (Chapter 5).

Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 5).

Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).

Other ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).

Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).

Low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Engine difficult to start when hot

Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).

Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).

Low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Faulty hydraulic tappet(s) (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in
engagement

Starter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken (Chap-
ter 5).

Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5).

Starter motor internal components worn or damaged (Chapter 5).

Engine starts but stops immediately

Loose or faulty electrical connections in the ignition circuit
(Chapters 1 and 5).

Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).

Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold (Chapters 1, 2 and 4).

Engine idles erratically

Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).

Air filter element clogged (Chapter 1).

Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-
ters 1, 2 and 4).

Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).

Faulty hydraulic tappet(s) (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Timing belt incorrectly-tensioned (Chapter 2, Part A or B).

Introduction

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

REF•12

Fault Finding

Engine (continued)

Engine misfires at idle speed

Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).

Faulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).

Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).

Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).

Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-
ters 1, 2 and 4).

Faulty hydraulic tappet(s) (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Disconnected, leaking or perished crankcase ventilation hoses
(Chapters 1 and 4).

Engine misfires throughout the driving speed
range

Fuel filter choked (Chapter 1).

Fuel pump faulty or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).

Fuel tank vent blocked or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).

Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-
ters 1, 2 and 4).

Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).

Faulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).

Faulty ignition coil (Chapter 5).

Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).

Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Engine hesitates on acceleration

Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).

Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).

Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-
ters 1, 2 and 4).

Engine stalls

Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).

Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-
ters 1, 2 and 4).

Fuel filter choked (Chapter 1).

Fuel pump faulty or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).

Fuel tank vent blocked or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).

Engine lacks power

Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).

Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).

Timing belt incorrectly fitted or incorrectly tensioned (Chapter 2,
Part A or B).

Fuel filter choked (Chapter 1).

Fuel pump faulty or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).

Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).

Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-
ters 1, 2 and 4).

Brakes binding (Chapters 1 and 9).

Clutch slipping (Chapter 6).

Automatic transmission fluid level incorrect (Chapter 1).

Engine backfires

Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).

Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).

Timing belt incorrectly fitted or incorrectly tensioned (Chap-
ter 2, Part A or B).

Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-
ters 1, 2 and 4).

Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine
running

Low oil level or incorrect oil grade (Chapter 1).

Faulty oil pressure warning light switch (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Worn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

High engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).

Oil pressure relief valve defective (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Oil pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Engine runs-on after switching off

Idle speed excessively high (Chapter 4).

Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).

Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

High engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).

Engine noises

Pre-ignition (pinking) or knocking during acceleration or
under load

Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).

Incorrect grade of fuel (Chapter 4).

Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap-
ters 1, 2 and 4).

Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Whistling or wheezing noises

Leaking inlet manifold gasket (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Leaking exhaust manifold gasket or downpipe-to-manifold joint
(Chapters 1, 2 Part A, B or C, and 4).

Leaking vacuum hose (Chapters 1, 2, 4, and 9).

Blowing cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Tapping or rattling noises

Faulty hydraulic tappet(s) (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Worn valve gear or camshaft (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Worn timing belt or tensioner (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Ancillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc) (Chapters 3
and 5).

Knocking or thumping noises

Worn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less under
load) (Chapter 2, Part C).

Worn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening
under load) (Chapter 2, Part C).

Piston slap (most noticeable when cold) (Chapter 2, Part C).

Ancillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc) (Chapters 3
and 5).

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Fault Finding

REF•13

Cooling system

Overheating

Insufficient coolant in system (Chapter 1).

Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3).

Radiator core blocked or grille restricted (Chapter 3).

Radiator electric cooling fan(s) or coolant temperature sensor faulty
(Chapter 3).

Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).

Pressure cap faulty (Chapter 3).

Auxiliary drivebelt worn or slipping (Chapter 1).

Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).

Inaccurate coolant temperature gauge sender (Chapter 3).

Air-lock in cooling system (Chapter 1).

Overcooling

Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3).

Inaccurate coolant temperature gauge sender (Chapter 3).

External coolant leakage

Deteriorated or damaged hoses or hose clips (Chapter 1).

Radiator core or heater matrix leaking (Chapter 3).

Pressure cap faulty (Chapter 3).

Water pump seal leaking (Chapter 3).

Boiling due to overheating (Chapter 3).

Core plug leaking (Chapter 2, Part C).

Internal coolant leakage

Leaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2, Part A, B or C).

Cracked cylinder head or cylinder bore (Chapter 2, Part C).

Corrosion

Infrequent draining and flushing (Chapter 1).

Incorrect antifreeze mixture, or inappropriate antifreeze type
(Chapter 1).

Fuel and exhaust system

Excessive fuel consumption

Unsympathetic driving style, or adverse conditions.

Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).

Engine management system fault (Chapters 1 and 4).

Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).

Tyres under-inflated (Chapter 1).

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour

Damaged or corroded fuel tank, pipes or connections (Chapter 1).

Charcoal canister and/or connecting pipes leaking (Chapter 4,
Part E).

Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system

Leaking exhaust system or manifold joints (Chapters 1,
2 Part A, B or C, and 4).

Leaking, corroded or damaged silencers or pipe (Chapter 1).

Broken mountings, causing body or suspension contact (Chap-
ters 1 and 4).

Clutch

Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little
resistance

Air in clutch hydraulic system (Chapter 6).

Faulty clutch slave cylinder (Chapter 6).

Faulty clutch master cylinder (Chapter 6).

Incorrect pedal height adjustment (Chapter 6).

Broken diaphragm spring in clutch pressure plate (Chapter 6).

Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)

Air in clutch hydraulic system (Chapter 6).

Faulty clutch slave cylinder (Chapter 6).

Faulty clutch master cylinder (Chapter 6).

Incorrect pedal height adjustment (Chapter 6).

Clutch disc sticking on transmission mainshaft splines (Chapter 6).

Clutch disc sticking to flywheel or pressure plate (Chapter 6).

Faulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6).

Clutch release mechanism worn or incorrectly assembled (Chap-
ter 6).

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no
increase in vehicle speed)

Clutch disc linings excessively worn (Chapter 6).

Clutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6).

Faulty pressure plate or weak diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).

Judder as clutch is engaged

Clutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 6).

Clutch disc linings excessively worn (Chapter 6).

Faulty or distorted pressure plate or diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).

Worn or loose engine/transmission mountings (Chapter 2, Part A or B).

Clutch disc hub or transmission mainshaft splines worn (Chapter 6).

Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal

Worn clutch release bearing (Chapter 6).

Worn or dry clutch pedal bushes (Chapter 6).

Faulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6).

Pressure plate diaphragm spring broken (Chapter 6).

Broken clutch disc cushioning springs (Chapter 6).

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

REF•14

Fault Finding

Manual transmission

Noisy in neutral with engine running

Mainshaft bearings worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
released, but not when depressed) (Chapter 7, Part A).*

Clutch release bearing worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
depressed, possibly less when released) (Chapter 6).

Noisy in one particular gear

Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth (Chapter 7, Part A).*

Worn bearings (Chapter 7, Part A).*

Difficulty engaging gears

Clutch fault (Chapter 6).

Worn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7, Part A).

Worn synchroniser assemblies (Chapter 7, Part A).*

Vibration

Lack of oil (Chapter 1).

Worn bearings (Chapter 7, Part A).*

Jumps out of gear

Worn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7, Part A).

Worn synchroniser assemblies (Chapter 7, Part A).*

Worn selector forks (Chapter 7, Part A).*

Lubricant leaks

Leaking differential side gear oil seal (Chapter 7, Part A).

Leaking gearchange shaft or speedometer pinion oil seals (Chap-
ter 7, Part A).

Leaking housing joint (Chapter 7, Part A).*

Leaking mainshaft oil seal (Chapter 7, Part A).*

* Although the corrective action necessary to remedy the symptoms
described is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, the above
information should be helpful in isolating the cause of the condition, so
that the owner can communicate clearly with a professional mechanic.

Automatic transmission

Note: Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is difficult
for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this unit. For
problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a
dealer service department or automatic transmission specialist.

Fluid leakage

Automatic transmission fluid is usually dark in colour. Fluid leaks
should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be blown
onto the transmission by airflow.

To determine the source of a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and
grime from the transmission housing and surrounding areas, using
a degreasing agent, or by steam-cleaning. Drive the vehicle at low
speed, so airflow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise
and support the vehicle, and determine where the leak is coming
from. The following are common areas of leakage:
(a) Transmission oil sump (Chapters 1 and 7, Part B).
(b) Dipstick tube (Chapters 1 and 7, Part B).
(c) Transmission-to-fluid cooler pipes/unions (Chapter 7, Part B).
(d) Speedometer drive pinion O-ring (Chapter 7, Part B).
(d) Differential side gear oil seals (Chapter 7, Part B).

Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell

Transmission fluid level low, or fluid in need of renewal (Chapter 1).

Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with
accelerator pedal fully depressed

Low transmission fluid level (Chapter 1).

Incorrect kickdown cable adjustment (Chapter 7, Part B).

Incorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7, Part B).

Engine management system fault (Chapters 1, and 4).

General gear selection problems

Chapter 7, Part B, deals with checking and adjusting the selector
cable on automatic transmissions. The following are common
problems which may be caused by a poorly-adjusted cable:
(a) Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral.
(b) Indicator on gear selector lever pointing to a gear other than

the one actually being used.

(c) Vehicle moves when in Park or Neutral.
(d) Poor gear shift quality or erratic gear changes.
Refer to Chapter 7, Part B for the selector cable adjustment
procedure.

Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears
other than Park or Neutral

Incorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7, Part B).

Incorrect starter inhibitor switch adjustment (Chapter 7, Part B).

Transmission slips, shift roughly, is noisy, or has
no drive in forward or reverse gears

There are many probable causes for the above problems, but the
home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility -
fluid level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer or transmission
specialist, check the fluid level and condition of the fluid as
described in Chapter 1. Correct the fluid level as necessary, or
change the fluid if needed. If the problem persists, professional help
will be necessary.

Driveshafts

Clicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed
on full-lock)

Lack of constant velocity joint lubricant (Chapter 8).

Worn outer constant velocity joint (Chapter 8).

Vibration when accelerating or decelerating

Worn inner constant velocity joint (Chapter 8).

Bent or distorted driveshaft (Chapter 8).

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Fault Finding

REF•15

Braking system

Note: Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that the
tyres are in good condition and correctly inflated, that the front wheel
alignment is correct, and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight in an
unequal manner. Apart from checking the condition of all pipe and
hose connections, any faults occurring on the Anti-lock Braking System
(ABS) should be referred to a Rover dealer for diagnosis.

Vehicle pulls to one side under braking

Worn, defective, damaged or contaminated front or rear brake pads
on one side (Chapter 1).

Seized or partially-seized front or rear brake caliper piston (Chapter 9).

A mixture of brake pad lining materials fitted between sides
(Chapter 1).

Brake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).

Worn or damaged steering or suspension components (Chapter 10).

Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when
brakes applied

Brake pad friction lining material worn down to metal backing
(Chapter 1).

Excessive corrosion of brake disc (may be apparent after the
vehicle has been standing for some time) (Chapter 1).

Excessive brake pedal travel

Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).

Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 9).

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed

Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 9).

Deteriorated flexible rubber brake hoses (Chapter 9).

Master cylinder mounting nuts loose (Chapter 9).

Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).

Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop
vehicle

Faulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 9).

Disconnected, damaged or insecure brake servo vacuum hose
(Chapter 9).

Primary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure (Chapter 9).

Seized brake caliper piston(s) (Chapter 9).

Brake pads incorrectly fitted (Chapter 9).

Incorrect grade of brake pads fitted (Chapter 1).

Brake pad linings contaminated (Chapter 1).

Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel
when braking

Excessive run-out or distortion of front or rear discs (Chapter 9).

Brake pad linings worn (Chapter 1).

Brake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).

Wear in suspension or steering components or mountings (Chap-
ter 10).

Brakes binding

Seized brake caliper piston(s) (Chapter 9).

Faulty handbrake mechanism (Chapter 9).

Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).

Rear wheels locking under normal braking

Rear brake pad linings contaminated (Chapter 1).

Faulty brake pressure-reducing valve (Chapter 9).

Suspension and steering systems

Note: Before diagnosing suspension or steering faults, be sure that the
trouble is not due to incorrect tyre pressures, mixtures of tyre types, or
binding brakes.

Vehicle pulls to one side

Defective tyre (Chapter 1).

Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapter 10).

Incorrect front or rear wheel alignment (Chapter 10).

Accident damage to steering or suspension components (Chap-
ter 10).

Wheel wobble and vibration

Front roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt mainly through the
steering wheel) (Chapter 1).

Rear roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt throughout the
vehicle) (Chapter 1).

Roadwheels damaged or distorted (Chapter 1).

Faulty or damaged tyre (Chapter 1).

Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapter 10).

Roadwheel nuts loose (Chapter 1).

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners,
or during braking

Defective shock absorbers (Chapter 10).

Broken or weak coil spring and/or suspension component (Chap-
ter 10).

Worn or damaged anti-roll bar or mountings (Chapter 10).

Wandering or general instability

Incorrect front or rear wheel alignment (Chapter 10).

Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapter 10).

Roadwheels out of balance (Chapter 1).

Faulty or damaged tyre (Chapter 1).

Roadwheel nuts loose (Chapter 1).

Defective shock absorbers (Chapter 10).

Excessively-stiff steering

Broken or incorrectly adjusted power steering pump (auxiliary)
drivebelt (Chapters 1 and 10).

Power steering pump faulty (Chapter 10).

Seized track rod end balljoint or suspension balljoint (Chapter 10).

Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).

Steering rack or column bent or damaged (Chapter 10).

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REF•16

Fault Finding

Suspension and steering systems

Excessive play in steering

Worn steering column universal joint(s) (Chapter 10).

Worn steering track rod end balljoints (Chapter 10).

Worn rack-and-pinion steering gear (Chapter 10).

Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapter 10).

Lack of power assistance

Broken or slipping power steering pump (auxiliary) drivebelt
(Chapter 1).

Incorrect power steering fluid level (Chapter 1).

Restriction in power steering fluid hoses (Chapter 10).

Faulty power steering pump (Chapter 10).

Faulty rack-and-pinion steering gear (Chapter 10).

Tyre wear excessive

Tyre treads exhibit feathered edges

Incorrect toe setting (Chapter 10).

Tyres worn in centre of tread

Tyres over-inflated (Chapter 1).

Tyres worn on inside and outside edges

Tyres under-inflated (Chapter 1).

Tyres worn unevenly

Tyres out of balance (Chapter 1).

Excessive wheel or tyre run-out (Chapter 1).

Worn shock absorbers (Chapter 10).

Faulty tyre (Chapter 1).

Tyres worn on inside or outside edges

Tyres under-inflated (wear on both edges) (Chapter 1).

Incorrect camber or castor angles (wear on one edge only) (Chap-
ter 10).

Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapter 10).

Excessively-hard cornering.

Accident damage.

Electrical system

Note: For problems associated with the starting system, refer to the

faults listed under “Engine” earlier in this Section.

Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few
days

Battery defective internally (Chapters 1 and 5).

Battery electrolyte level low (Chapter 1).

Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapters 1 and 5).

Auxiliary drivebelt worn or incorrectly-adjusted (Chapter 1).

Alternator not charging at correct output (Chapter 5).

Alternator or voltage regulator faulty (Chapter 5).

Short-circuit causing continual battery drain (Chapters 5 and 12).

Ignition warning light remains illuminated with
engine running

Auxiliary drivebelt broken, worn, or incorrectly-adjusted (Chapter 1).

Alternator brushes worn, sticking, or dirty (Chapter 5).

Alternator brush springs weak or broken (Chapter 5).

Internal fault in alternator or voltage regulator (Chapter 5).

Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in charging circuit (Chap-
ter 5).

Ignition warning light fails to come on

Warning light bulb blown (Chapter 12).

Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in warning light circuit
(Chapters 5 and 12).

Alternator faulty (Chapter 5).

Lights inoperative

Bulb blown (Chapter 12).

Corrosion of bulb or bulbholder contacts (Chapter 12).

Blown fuse (Chapter 12).

Faulty relay (Chapter 12).

Broken, loose, or disconnected wiring (Chapter 12).

Faulty switch (Chapter 12).

Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic

Instrument readings increase with engine speed

Faulty instrument electronic control unit (Chapter 12).

Fuel or temperature gauges give no reading

Faulty instrument electronic control unit (Chapter 12).

Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 3 or 4).

Wiring open-circuit (Chapter 12).

Faulty gauge (Chapter 12).

Fuel or temperature gauges give continuous maximum
reading

Faulty instrument electronic control unit (Chapter 12).

Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 3 or 4).

Wiring short-circuit (Chapter 12).

Faulty gauge (Chapter 12).

Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

Horn fails to operate

Blown fuse (Chapter 12).

Steering wheel cable connections loose, broken or disconnected
(Chapter 10).

Faulty horn (Chapter 12).

Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory sound

Steering wheel cable connections loose, broken or disconnected
(Chapter 10).

Horn mountings loose (Chapter 12).

Faulty horn (Chapter 12).

Horn operates all the time

Horn push either earthed or stuck down (Chapter 10).

Steering wheel cable connections earthed (Chapter 10).

Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative or unsat-
isfactory in operation

Wipers fail to operate, or operate very slowly

Wiper blades stuck to screen, or linkage seized or binding (Chap-
ter 12).

Blown fuse (Chapter 12).

Cable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected (Chap-
ter 12).

Faulty relay (Chapter 12).

Faulty wiper motor (Chapter 12).

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Rover 820, 825, 827. Repair Manual - part 16