Kawasaki Ninja 650R, ER-6f, ER-6f ABS Motorcycle. Service Manual (2009-2011 year)

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-75

Switches and Sensors

Water Temperature Sensor Inspection

•

Remove the water temperature sensor (see Water Tem-
perature Sensor Removal/Installation in the Fuel System
(DFI) chapter).

•

Suspend the sensor [A] in a container of coolant so that
the temperature-sensing projection [C] is submerged.

•

Suspend an accurate thermometer [B] with temperature
-sensing projection [C] located in almost the same depth
with the sensor.

NOTE

○

The sensor and thermometer must not touch the con-
tainer side or bottom.

•

Place the container over a source of heat and gradu-
ally raise the temperature of the coolant while stirring the
coolant gently.

•

Using the hand tester, measure the internal resistance of
the sensor.
If the hand tester does not show the specified values, re-
place the sensor.

Water Temperature Sensor Resistance

Temperature

Resistance (k

Ω

)

–20°C (–4°F)

*18.80 ±2.37

0°C (32°F)

*(about 6.544)

40°C (104°F)

1.136 ±0.095

100°C (212°F)

0.1553 ±0.0070

*: Reference Information

Speed Sensor Removal

CAUTION

Never drop the sensor especially on a hard surface.
Such a shock to the sensor can damage it.

•

Remove the engine sprocket cover (see Engine Sprocket
Removal in the Final Drive chapter).

•

Disconnect the speed sensor lead connector [A].

•

Remove:

Bolt [A]
Speed Sensor [B]

Speed Sensor Installation

•

Installation is the reverse of removal.

•

Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the sensor bolt,
and tighten it.

Torque - Speed Sensor Bolt: 7.8 N·m (0.80 kgf·m, 69 in·lb)

16-76 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Switches and Sensors

Speed Sensor Inspection

•

Remove the speed sensor (see Speed Sensor Removal).

•

Connect the speed sensor connector [A] with the battery
[B], 10 k

Ω

resistor [C] and hand tester [D] as shown.

•

Set the tester to the DC 25 V range.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

•

Trace [A] each side of the speed sensor surface with the
screw driver.

○

Then the tester indicator should flick [B].
If the tester indicator does not flick, replace the speed
sensor.

Fuel Level Sensor Inspection

•

Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel
System (DFI) chapter).

•

Remove:

Bolts [A]
Fuel Level Sensor [B]

•

Check that the float moves up and down smoothly without
binding. It should go down under its own weight.
If the float does not move smoothly, replace the sensor.

Float in Full Position [A]
Float in Empty Position [B]

•

Using the hand tester [A], measure the resistance across
the terminals in the fuel level sensor lead connector [B].

Special Tools - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

If the tester readings are not as specified, or do not
change smoothly according as the float moves up and
down, replace the sensor.

Fuel Level Sensor Resistance

Standard:

Full position: 5

∼

Ω

Empty position [C]: 204

∼

210

Ω

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-77

Switches and Sensors

•

Install a new gasket [A] on the fuel level sensor as shown.

Hollows [B]

•

Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of
the level sensor bolts and tighten it.

Torque - Fuel Level Sensor Bolts: 6.9 N·m (0.70 kgf·m, 61

in·lb)

Oxygen Sensor Removal (Equipped Models)

CAUTION

Never drop the sensor especially on a hard surface.
Such a shock to the sensor can damage it.

•

Remove:

Lower Fairing (see Lower Fairing Removal in the Frame
chapter)

•

Disconnect the oxygen sensor lead connector [A].

•

Remove the oxygen sensor [A].

Oxygen Sensor Installation (Equipped Models)

CAUTION

Never drop the oxygen sensor [A], especially on a
hard surface. Such a shock to the unit can damage
it. Do not touch the sensing part [B] and filter holes
[C] of the sensor to prevent oil contact. Oil contami-
nation from hands can reduce sensor performance.

•

Tighten:

Torque - Oxygen Sensor: 44 N·m (4.5 kgf·m, 32 ft·lb)

•

Run the oxygen sensor lead correctly (see Cable, Wire,
and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter).

Oxygen Sensor Inspection (Equipped Models)

•

Refer to the Oxygen Sensor Inspection in the Fuel System
(DFI) chapter.

16-78 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Switches and Sensors

Fuel Reserve Switch Inspection

•

Fill the fuel tank with fuel.

•

Close the fuel tank cap surely.

•

Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel
System (DFI) chapter).

•

Connect the test light [A] (12 V 3.4 W bulb a socket with
leads) and the 12 V battery [B] to the fuel pump connector
[C].

Connections:

Battery (+)

→

12 V 3.4 W Bulb (One Side)

12 V 3.4 W Bulb (Other Side)

→

BL Lead Terminal

Battery (–)

→

BK Lead Terminal

If the test light turn on, the reserve switch is defective.
Replace the fuel pump.

•

Remove the fuel pump (see Fuel Pump Removal in the
Fuel System (DFI) chapter).

•

Connect the test light (12 V 3.4 W bulb in a socket with
leads) and the 12 V battery to the fuel pump connector as
shown.

12 V Battery [A]
Test Light [B]
Fuel Pump Connector [C]
Fuel Reserve Switch [D]

If the test light does not light, replace the fuel pump.

NOTE

○

It may take a long time to turn on the test light in case
that the fuel reserve switch is inspected just after the
fuel pump is removed. Leave the fuel reserve switch
with leads for inspection connected for few minutes.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-79

Relay Box

The relay box [A] has relays and diodes. The relays and

diodes can not be removed.

Relay Box Removal

•

Remove:

Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel System
(DFI) chapter)

•

Take out the relay box [A] and disconnect the connectors
[B].

Relay Circuit Inspection

•

Remove the relay box (see Relay Box Removal).

•

Check conductivity of the following numbered terminals
by connecting the hand tester and one 12 V battery to the
relay box as shown (see Relay Box Internal Circuit in this
section).
If the tester does not read as specified, replace the relay
box.

Relay Circuit Inspection (with the battery disconnected)

Tester Connection

Tester Reading (

Ω

)

Headlight Relay

1-3

∞

7-6

∞

ECU Main Relay

4-5

Not

∞

7-8

∞

Fuel Pump Relay

9-10

Not

∞

11-16

∞

Starter Circuit Relay

11-12

∞

17-20

∞

Fan Relay

18-19

Not

∞

*: The actual reading varies with the hand tester used.

16-80 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Relay Box

Relay Circuit Inspection (with the battery connected)

Battery

Connection

(+)

(–)

Tester

Connection

Tester

Reading (

Ω

)

2-11

1-3

ECU Main Relay

4-5

7-6

Fuel Pump Relay

9-10

7-8

Fan Relay

18-19

17-20

Battery

Connection

(+)

(–)

Tester Connection

DC 25 V Range

Tester

Reading (V)

Starter
Circuit Relay

16-12

11-12

Battery

Voltage

(+): Apply positive lead.
(–): Apply negative lead.

Diode Circuit Inspection

•

Remove the relay box (see Relay Box Removal).

•

Check conductivity of the following pairs of terminals (see
Relay Box Internal Circuit in this section).

Diode Circuit Inspection

Tester Connection

1-11, 2-11, 12-13, 12-15, 12-16, 13-14,
13-15

The resistance should be low in one direction and more
than ten times as much in the other direction. If any diode
shows low or high in both directions, the diode is defective
and the relay box must be replaced.

NOTE

○

The actual meter reading varies with the meter or tester
used and the individual diodes, but generally speaking,
the lower reading should be from zero to one half the
scale.

16-82 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Fuse

30 A Main Fuse Removal

•

Remove:

Bolt [A]
Cover [B]

•

Take off the starter relay from the battery case.

•

Remove the cover [A], and pull out the main fuse [B] with
needle nose pliers.

Fuse Box Fuse Removal

•

Remove:

Seat (see Seat Removal in the Frame chapter)

•

Open the lid [A].

•

Pull the fuses [A] straight out of the fuse box with needle
nose pliers.

15 A ECU Fuse Removal

•

Remove:

Seat (see Seat Removal in the Frame chapter)

•

Open the lid [A].

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-83

Fuse

•

Pull the ECU fuse [A] straight out of the fuse box with
needle nose pliers.

Fuse Installation

•

If a fuse fails during operation, inspect the electrical sys-
tem to determine the cause, and then replace it with a
new fuse of proper amperage.

•

Install the fuse box fuses on the original position as spec-
ified on the lid.

Fuse Inspection

•

Remove the fuse (see 30 A Main/Fuse Box /15 A ECU
Fuse Removal).

•

Inspect the fuse element.
If it is blown out, replace the fuse. Before replacing a
blown fuse, always check the amperage in the affected
circuit. If the amperage is equal to or greater than the
fuse rating, check the wiring and related components for
a short circuit.

Housing [A]
Fuse Element [B]
Terminals [C]
Blown Element [D]

CAUTION

When replacing a fuse, be sure the new fuse
matches the specified fuse rating for that circuit.
Installation of a fuse with a higher rating may cause
damage to wiring and components.

APPENDIX 17-5

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Insert the clamp into the frame from the air cleaner side.
2. Clamp
3. Insert the clamp into the frame.
4. Insert the clamp into the fuel tank bracket.
5. Clamp (Faces the stopper forward.)
6. Clamp (Faces the stopper outward.)
7. Insert the clamp into the frame from the air cleaner side.
8. Clamp
9. Insert the clamp into the frame.

10. Clamp (Run the air switching valve lead, left switch housing lead (main harness side) and igni-

tion switch lead (main harness side) in turn from upper side.)

11. Ignition Switch Lead

12. Left Switch Housing Lead
13. Clamp (Run the left switch housing lead and ignition switch lead in turn from upper side.)
14. Cover the connectors with the caps securely, and place the left switch housing lead connector

in front of the ignition switch lead connector.

APPENDIX 17-17

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Clamp
2. Clamp
3. Stick Coil Lead Connectors
4. Subthrottle Valve Actuator Lead
5. Clamp
6. Subthrottle Sensor Lead
7. Clamp
8. Clamp
9. Clamp (Hold the stick coil leads.)

10. Clamp (Install the clamp with the quick rivet onto the throttle body assy. Hold the subthrottle

valve actuator lead. Bend the clamp downward along the delivery pipe so that the subthrottle
sensor lead and the subthrottle valve actuator lead places under the delivery pipe.)

11. Clamp (Insert the clamp into the frame. Hold the main harness.)

12. Front Left Turn Signal Light Lead
13. Clamps (Insert clamp into the upper fairing. Hold the front left turn signal light lead.)
14. Turn Signal Relay
15. Radiator Fan Lead Connector
16. Clamp (Insert clamp into the frame. Hold the turn signal relay lead and radiator fan lead.)

APPENDIX 17-19

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Meter Unit Connector (Cover the connector with the cap securely.)
2. Throttle Cable (Accelerator)
3. Throttle Cable (Decelerator)
4. Right City Light Lead Connector
5. Headlight (Lo) Lead Connector
6. Front Brake Hose
7. Clamp (Hold the front brake hose lead.)
8. Insert clamps into the upper fairing bracket.
9. Left City Light Lead Connector

10. Front Wheel Rotation Sensor Lead (EX650D model)

11. Headlight (Hi) Lead Connector

12. Clamp (Insert clamp into the under bracket. Hold the horn lead and front wheel rotation sensor

lead (EX650D model).)

13. Insert clamp into the under bracket.
14. Clutch Cable
15. Left Switch Housing Lead
16. Hang the ignition switch lead on the guide.
17. Run the front wheel rotation sensor lead into the guide as shown in the figure. (EX650D model)
18. Clamp (Insert clamp into the stay of the upper fairing bracket. Hold the main harness.)
19. Insert the connector of horn from the underside.
20. Main Harness
21. Clamp (Hold the ignition switch lead, left switch housing lead and main harness in turn from

upper side.)

22. Ignition Switch Lead

APPENDIX 17-21

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Clamp (Hold the clutch cable.)
2. Clutch Cable
3. Reserve Tank Over Flow Hose
4. Clamp (Insert clamp into the frame. Hold the right switch housing lead.)
5. Right Switch Housing Lead
6. Clamps (Hold the right switch housing lead, front brake hose, throttle cable (decelerator) and

throttle cable (accelerator) in turn from inside.)

7. Run the right switch housing lead, clutch cable, throttle cable (decelerator) and throttle cable

(accelerator) in turn from upper side. (Hold the cables so that they lift up.)

8. Left Switch Housing Lead
9. Ignition Switch Lead

10. Clamps (Insert clamp into the upper fairing. Hold the front right turn signal light lead.)

11. Front Right Turn Signal Light Lead

APPENDIX 17-23

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Run the fuel tank breather tube and fuel tank drain tube between the main harness and air

cleaner housing.

2. Air Cleaner Drain Hose
3. Run the electrical leads into the upper space of the engine sprocket cover.
4. Run the fuel tank breather tube, fuel tank drain tube, electrical leads and air cleaner drain hose

in turn from outside between the engine and engine sprocket cover.

5. Clamp (Hold the fuel tank drain tube, oxygen sensor lead and sidestand switch lead in turn from

outside.)

6. Fuel Tank Breather (Other than CAL and SEA Models)
7. Oxygen Sensor Lead (Equipped Models)
8. Clamp (Hold the sidestand switch lead and fuel tank drain tube.)

APPENDIX 17-37

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Rear Wheel Rotation Sensor
2. Run the rear wheel rotation sensor lead into the clamps.
3. Clamp (hold the rear wheel rotation sensor lead with the brake hose under the rear shock ab-

sorber lower end.)

4. Cover the connector with the cap securely.
5. Run the regulator/rectifier lead under the rear reservoir hose.
6. Clamp (Hold the regulator/rectifier lead. Insert the clamp into the frame.)
7. Strain the rear wheel rotation sensor lead in this area.
8. Clamp (hold the rear wheel rotation sensor lead with the brake hose by the brake hose fitting

end.)

9. Run the rear wheel rotation sensor lead over the rear reservoir hose.

10. Clamp (hold the rear wheel rotation sensor lead with the brake hose.)

11. Run the rear wheel rotation sensor lead over the rear brake light switch lead.

12. Run the vehicle-down sensor lead under the brake hose.

17-42 APPENDIX

Troubleshooting Guide

NOTE

○

Refer to the Fuel System chapter for most
of DFI trouble shooting guide.

○

This is not an exhaustive list, giving every
possible cause for each problem listed. It
is meant simply as a rough guide to assist
the troubleshooting for some of the more
common difficulties.

Engine Doesn’t Start, Starting
Difficulty:

Starter motor not rotating:

Starter lockout switch or neutral switch trou-

ble

Starter motor trouble
Battery voltage low
Starter relay not contacting or operating
Starter button not contacting
Wiring open or shorted
Ignition switch trouble
Engine stop switch trouble
Fuse blown

Starter motor rotating but engine doesn’t
turn over:

Starter clutch trouble
Vehicle-down sensor (DFI) coming off

Engine won’t turn over:

Valve seizure
Valve lifter seizure
Cylinder, piston seizure
Crankshaft seizure
Connecting rod small end seizure
Connecting rod big end seizure
Transmission gear or bearing seizure
Camshaft seizure
Starter idle gear seizure

No fuel flow:

No fuel in tank
Fuel pump trouble
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel filter clogged
Fuel line clogged

Engine flooded:

Clean spark plug and adjust plug gap
Starting technique faulty
(When flooded, do not crank the engine with
the throttle fully opened. This promotes
engine flood because more fuel is supplied
automatically by DFI.)

No spark; spark weak:

Vehicle-down sensor (DFI) coming off
Ignition switch not ON
Engine stop switch turned OFF
Clutch lever not pulled in or gear not in neu-

tral

Battery voltage low

Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap malad-

justed

Stick coil shorted or not in good contact
Stick coil trouble
Spark plug incorrect
ECU trouble
Neutral, starter lockout, or side stand switch

trouble

Crankshaft sensor trouble
Ignition switch or engine stop switch

shorted

Wiring shorted or open
Fuse blown

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

Bypass screw and/or idle adjusting screw

maladjusted

Air passage clogged
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or miss-

ing

Compression Low:

Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened

down

No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or

sticking)

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent,

worn, or carbon accumulation on the
seating surface)

Poor Running at Low Speed:

Spark weak:

Battery voltage low
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Stick coil wiring trouble
Stick coil not in good contact
Spark plug incorrect
ECU trouble
Crankshaft sensor trouble
Stick coil trouble

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

Bypass screw maladjusted
Air passage clogged
Air bleed pipe bleed holes clogged
Pilot passage clogged
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or miss-

ing

Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel pump trouble
Throttle body assy holder loose
Air cleaner duct loose

APPENDIX 17-43

Troubleshooting Guide

Compression low:

Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened

down

No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or

sticking)

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head warped
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent,

worn, or carbon accumulation on the
seating surface)

Other:

ECU trouble
Throttle body assy not synchronizing
Engine oil viscosity too high
Drive train trouble
Brake dragging
Air suction valve trouble
Air switching valve trouble
Engine overheating
Clutch slipping

Poor Running or No Power at High
Speed:

Firing incorrect:

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Stick coil wiring trouble
Stick coil not in good contact
Spark plug incorrect
Camshaft position trouble
ECU trouble
Crankshaft sensor trouble
Stick coil trouble

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or miss-

ing

Air cleaner O-ring damaged
Air cleaner duct loose
Water or foreign matter in fuel
Throttle body assy holder loose
Fuel to injector insufficient (DFI)
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel line clogged
Fuel pump trouble

Compression low:

Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened

down

No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or

sticking)

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive

Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent,

worn, or carbon accumulation on the
seating surface)

Knocking:

Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Fuel poor quality or incorrect
Spark plug incorrect
ECU trouble
Crankshaft sensor trouble

Miscellaneous:

Throttle valve won’t fully open
Brake dragging
Clutch slipping
Engine overheating
Engine oil level too high
Engine oil viscosity too high
Drive train trouble
Air suction valve trouble
Air switching valve trouble
Catalytic converter melt down due to muffler

overheating (KLEEN)

Overheating:

Firing incorrect:

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug incorrect
ECU trouble

Muffler overheating:

For KLEEN, do not run the engine even if

with only one cylinder misfiring or poor
running (Request the nearest service fa-
cility to correct it)

For KLEEN, do not push-start with a dead

battery (Connect another full-charged
battery with jumper cables, and start the
engine using the electric starter)

For KLEEN, do not start the engine under

misfire due to spark plug fouling or poor
connection of the stick coil

For KLEEN, do not coast the motorcycle

with the ignition switch off (Turn the igni-
tion switch ON and run the engine)

ECU trouble

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

Throttle body assy holder loose
Air cleaner duct loose
Air cleaner poorly sealed, or missing
Air cleaner O-ring damaged
Air cleaner clogged

Compression high:

Carbon built up in combustion chamber

Engine load faulty:

Clutch slipping
Engine oil level too high

17-44 APPENDIX

Troubleshooting Guide

Engine oil viscosity too high
Drive train trouble
Brake dragging

Lubrication inadequate:

Engine oil level too low
Engine oil poor quality or incorrect

Gauge incorrect:

Water temperature gauge broken
Water temperature sensor broken

Coolant incorrect:

Coolant level too low
Coolant deteriorated
Wrong coolant mixed ratio

Cooling system component incorrect:

Radiator fin damaged
Radiator clogged
Thermostat trouble
Radiator cap trouble
Radiator fan relay trouble
Fan motor broken
Fan blade damaged
Water pump not turning
Water pump impeller damaged

Over Cooling:

Gauge incorrect:

Water temperature gauge broken
Water temperature sensor broken

Cooling system component incorrect:

Radiator fan relay trouble
Thermostat trouble

Clutch Operation Faulty:

Clutch slipping:

Friction plate worn or warped
Steel plate worn or warped
Clutch spring broken or weak
Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn
No clutch lever play
Clutch inner cable trouble
Clutch release mechanism trouble

Clutch not disengaging properly:

Clutch plate warped or too rough
Clutch spring compression uneven
Engine oil deteriorated
Engine oil viscosity too high
Engine oil level too high
Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft
Clutch hub nut loose
Clutch hub spline damaged
Clutch friction plate installed wrong
Clutch lever play excessive
Clutch release mechanism trouble

Gear Shifting Faulty:

Doesn’t go into gear; shift pedal doesn’t
return:

Clutch not disengaging
Shift fork bent or seized
Gear stuck on the shaft
Gear positioning lever binding
Shift return spring weak or broken
Shift return spring pin loose
Shift mechanism arm spring broken
Shift mechanism arm broken
Shift pawl broken

Jumps out of gear:

Shift fork ear worn, bent
Gear groove worn
Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn
Shift drum groove worn
Gear positioning lever spring weak or bro-

ken

Shift fork guide pin worn
Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear

splines worn

Overshifts:

Gear positioning lever spring weak or bro-

ken

Shift mechanism arm spring broken

Abnormal Engine Noise:

Knocking:

ECU trouble
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Fuel poor quality or incorrect
Spark plug incorrect
Overheating

Piston slap:

Cylinder/piston clearance excessive
Cylinder, piston worn
Connecting rod bent
Piston pin, piston pin hole worn

Valve noise:

Valve clearance incorrect
Valve spring broken or weak
Camshaft bearing worn
Valve lifter worn

Other noise:

Connecting rod small end clearance exces-

sive

Connecting rod big end clearance exces-

sive

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Piston ring worn, broken, or stuck
Piston ring groove worn
Piston seizure, damage
Cylinder head gasket leaking
Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head con-

nection

Crankshaft runout excessive

APPENDIX 17-45

Troubleshooting Guide

Engine mount loose
Crankshaft bearing worn
Primary gear worn or chipped
Camshaft chain tensioner trouble
Camshaft chain, sprocket, guide worn
Air suction valve damaged
Air switching valve damaged
Alternator rotor loose
Catalytic converter melt down due to muffler

overheating (KLEEN)

Abnormal Drive Train Noise:

Clutch noise:

Clutch housing/friction plate clearance ex-

cessive

Clutch housing gear worn
Wrong installation of outside friction plate

Transmission noise:

Bearings worn
Transmission gear worn or chipped
Metal chips jammed in gear teeth
Engine oil insufficient

Drive line noise:

Drive chain adjusted improperly
Drive chain worn
Rear and/or engine sprocket worn
Chain lubrication insufficient
Rear wheel misaligned

Abnormal Frame Noise:

Front fork noise:

Oil insufficient or too thin
Spring weak or broken

Rear shock absorber noise:

Shock absorber damaged

Disc brake noise:

Pad installed incorrectly
Pad surface glazed
Disc warped
Caliper trouble

Other noise:

Bracket, nut, bolt, etc.

not properly

mounted or tightened

Oil Pressure Warning Light Goes On:

Engine oil pump damaged
Engine oil screen clogged
Engine oil filter clogged
Engine oil level too low
Engine oil viscosity too low
Camshaft bearing worn
Crankshaft bearing worn
Oil pressure switch damaged
Wiring faulty
Relief valve stuck open

O-ring at the oil passage in the crankcase

damaged

Exhaust Smokes Excessively:

White smoke:

Piston oil ring worn
Cylinder worn
Valve oil seal damaged
Valve guide worn
Engine oil level too high

Black smoke:

Air cleaner clogged

Brown smoke:

Air cleaner duct loose
Air cleaner O-ring damaged
Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing

Handling and/or Stability
Unsatisfactory:

Handlebar hard to turn:

Cable routing incorrect
Hose routing incorrect
Wiring routing incorrect
Steering stem nut too tight
Steering stem bearing damaged
Steering stem bearing lubrication inade-

quate

Steering stem bent
Tire air pressure too low

Handlebar shakes or excessively vibrates:

Tire worn
Swingarm pivot bearing worn
Rim warped, or not balanced
Wheel bearing worn
Handlebar holder bolt loose
Steering stem nut loose
Front, rear axle runout excessive
Engine mounting bolt loose

Handlebar pulls to one side:

Frame bent
Wheel misalignment
Swingarm bent or twisted
Swingarm pivot shaft runout excessive
Steering maladjusted
Front fork bent
Right and left front fork oil level uneven

Shock absorption unsatisfactory:

(Too hard)
Front fork oil excessive
Front fork oil viscosity too high
Rear shock absorber adjustment too hard
Tire air pressure too high
Front fork bent
(Too soft)
Tire air pressure too low
Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking
Front fork oil viscosity too low

17-46 APPENDIX

Troubleshooting Guide

Rear shock adjustment too soft
Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weak
Rear shock absorber oil leaking

Brake Doesn’t Hold:

Air in the brake line
Pad or disc worn
Brake fluid leakage
Disc warped
Contaminated pad
Brake fluid deteriorated
Primary or secondary cup damaged in master

cylinder

Master cylinder scratched inside

Battery Trouble:

Battery discharged:

Charge insufficient
Battery faulty (too low terminal voltage)
Battery cable making poor contact
Load excessive (e.g., bulb of excessive

wattage)

Ignition switch trouble
Alternator trouble
Wiring faulty
Regulator/rectifier trouble

Battery overcharged:

Alternator trouble
Regulator/rectifier trouble
Battery faulty

MODEL APPLICATION

Year

Model

Beginning Frame No.

2009

EX650C9F

JKAEXEC1

□

9DA19833

JKAEX650CCDA19835

2009

EX650D9F

JKAEX650CDDA23433

□

:This digit in the frame number changes from one machine to another.

Part No.99924-1419-01

Printed in Japan

Kawasaki Ninja 650R, ER-6f, ER-6f ABS Motorcycle. Service Manual (2009-2011 year) - page 18