Content      ..     1      2      3      4      ..

Kawasaki Ninja 650R, ER-6f ABS, ER-6f Motorcycle. Service Manual (2006-2008 year) - page 3

5-42 ENGINE TOP END

Muffler

Muffler Body Removal

WARNING

To avoid a serious burn, do not remove the muffler

when the engine is still hot. Wait until the muffler

cool down.

• Remove:

Right Frame Cover (see Frame Cover Removal in the

Frame chapter)

• Remove the bolts and lift up the right footpeg stay [A].

• Remove the muffler body mounting bolts [A] and nut, and

pull the muffler body [B] backward.

Exhaust Pipe Removal

• Remove:

Lower Fairings (see Lower Fairing Removal in the Frame

chapter)

Center Fairings (see Center Fairing Removal in the

Frame chapter)

Muffler Body Clamp Bolt [A]

Exhaust Pipe Manifold Holder Nuts [B]

Exhaust Pipe [C]

Gaskets

ENGINE TOP END 5-43

Muffler

Muffler Body and Exhaust Pipe Installation

• Replace the exhaust pipe gaskets [A] and muffler body

connection gasket [B] with new ones and install them.

○Install the muffler body connection gasket until it is bot-

tomed so that the chamfer side [C] feces muffler body [D].

• Install:

Muffler Body

Exhaust Pipe [E]

• Tighten:

Torque - Exhaust Pipe Manifold Holder Nut [F]: 17 N·m (1.7

kgf·m, 12 ft·lb)

Muffler Body Mounting Bolts (Front and Rear) [G]:

20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)

• Tighten the muffler body clamp bolt [H].

○Install the muffler body clamp bolt as shown.

• Thoroughly warm up the engine, wait until the engine

cools down, and retighten all the bolts and nuts.

6-2 CLUTCH

Exploded View

CLUTCH 6-3

Exploded View

Torque

No.

Fastener

Remarks

N·m

kgf·m

ft·lb

1

Upper Cap on Clutch Cover

3.9

0.40

35 in·lb

2

Lower Cap on Clutch Cover

-

-

-

Hand-tighten

3

Oil Filler Plug

-

-

-

Hand-tighten

4

Clutch Cover Mounting Bolts

9.8

1.0

87 in·lb

5

Clutch Spring Bolts

9.8

1.0

87 in·lb

6

Clutch Hub Nut

132

13.5

98

R

7

Oil Pump Sprocket Bolt

12

1.2

106 in·lb

L, Lh

8

Clutch Lever Clamp Bolts

7.8

0.80

69 in·lb

S

9

Oil Pump Chain Guide Bolts

12

1.2

106 in·lb

L

10

Clutch Cable Holder Bolts

9.8

1.0

87 in·lb

L

11

Clutch Cable Clamp Bolt

9.8

1.0

87 in·lb

CL: Apply cable lubricant.

EO: Apply engine oil.

G: Apply grease.

HG: Apply high-temperature grease.

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

Lh: Left-hand threads

M: Apply molybdenum disulfide grease.

R: Replacement Parts

S: Follow the specified tightening sequence.

W: Apply water.

CLUTCH 6-5

Special Tool and Sealant

Clutch Holder:

Kawasaki Bond (Silicone Sealant):

57001-1243

92104-0004

6-6 CLUTCH

Clutch Lever and Cable

Clutch Lever Free Play Inspection

• Refer to the Clutch Operation Inspection in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter.

Clutch Lever Free Play Adjustment

• Refer to the Clutch Operation Inspection in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter.

Clutch Cable Removal

• Remove:

Right Frame Cover (see Frame Cover Removal in the

Frame chapter)

Right Center Fairing (see Center Fairing Removal in the

Frame chapter)

• Slide the dust cover [A] at the middle of clutch cable out

of place.

• Loosen the locknut [B], and turn the adjusting nut [C] to

give the cable plenty of play.

• Screw in the adjuster.

• Line up the slots [A] in the clutch lever and adjuster [B],

and then free the cable from the lever.

• Free the clutch inner cable tip from the clutch release

lever.

• Disconnect the clutch cable clamp [A] on the cylinder

head cover.

• Pull the clutch cable out of the frame.

Clutch Cable Installation

• Run the clutch cable correctly (see Cable, Wire, and Hose

Routing section in the Appendix chapter).

• Adjust the clutch cable (see Clutch Operation Inspection

in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Clutch Cable Lubrication

• Refer to the Chassis Parts Lubrication in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter.

CLUTCH 6-7

Clutch Lever and Cable

Clutch Lever Installation

• Install the clutch lever so that the mating surface [B] of the

clutch lever clamp is aligned with the punch mark [A].

• Tighten the upper clamp bolt first, and then the lower

clamp bolt. There will be a gap at the lower part of the

clamp after tightening.

Torque - Clutch Lever Clamp Bolts: 7.8 N·m (0.80 kgf·m, 69

in·lb)

Clutch Lever Adjustment

The adjuster has 5 positions so that the clutch lever posi-

tion can be adjusted to suit the operator’s hand.

• Push the lever forward and turn the adjuster [A] to align

the number with the arrow mark [B] on the lever holder.

○The distance from the grip to the lever is minimum at num-

ber 5 and maximum at number 1.

6-8 CLUTCH

Clutch Cover

Clutch Cover Removal

• Remove:

Engine Oil (Drain, see Engine Oil Change in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter)

Right Frame Cover (see Frame Cover Removal in the

Frame chapter)

Right Center Fairing (see Center Fairing Removal in the

Frame chapter)

Clutch Cable Lower End [A]

Clutch Cover Mounting Bolts [B]

• Turn the release lever [A] toward the rear as shown, and

remove the clutch cover [B].

About 90° [C]

• Push the release lever toward the front of the motorcycle

and tape the release lever to the clutch cover to prevent

the release shaft from falling out.

Clutch Cover Installation

• Apply silicone sealant to the area [A] where the mating

surface of the crankcase touches the clutch cover gasket

and to the crankshaft sensor lead grommet [B].

Sealant - Kawasaki Bond (Silicone Sealant): 92104-0004

• Be sure that the dowel pins [C] are in position.

• Replace the clutch cover gasket [D] with a new one.

• Tighten the clutch cover mounting bolts.

Torque - Clutch Cover Mounting Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m,

87 in·lb)

CLUTCH 6-9

Clutch Cover

Release Shaft Removal

CAUTION

Do not remove the clutch release lever and shaft

assembly unless it is absolutely necessary. If re-

moved, the oil seal replacement may be required.

• Remove the clutch cover (see Clutch Cover Removal).

• Pull the lever and shaft assembly straight out of the clutch

cover.

Release Shaft Installation

• Apply high-temperature grease to the oil seal lips on the

upper ridge of the clutch cover.

• Apply engine oil to the needle bearings in the hole of the

clutch cover.

• Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the pusher-holding

portion [A] on the release shaft.

• Install the washer [B] and spring [C].

• Insert the release shaft straight into the upper hole of the

clutch cover.

CAUTION

When inserting the release shaft, be careful not to

remove the spring of the oil seal.

• Fit the spring [A] as shown.

Release Shaft [B]

Clutch Cover [C]

Clutch Cover Disassembly

• Remove:

Oil Seal [A]

Needle Bearings [B]

6-10 CLUTCH

Clutch Cover

• Remove the oil level gauge [A].

Clutch Cover Assembly

• Replace the needle bearings and oil seal with new ones.

NOTE

○Install the needle bearings so that the manufacture’s

mark face out.

• Install the needle bearings [A] and oil seal [B] position as

shown.

Press [C] the bearing so that the bearing surface [D] is

flushwith the housing end of clutch cover [E].

• Apply water to the rubber of the oil gauge [A] and press

[B] it so that the ring [C] face outside.

CLUTCH 6-11

Clutch

Clutch Removal

• Remove:

Engine Oil (Drain, see Engine Oil Change in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter)

Clutch Cover (see Clutch Cover Removal)

Clutch Spring Bolts [A]

Clutch Springs

Clutch Spring Plate [B] (with thrust bearing and pusher

[C])

• Remove:

Friction Plates, Steel Plates

Clutch Hub Nut [A]

○Holding the clutch hub [B], remove the nut and washer.

Special Tool - Clutch Holder [C]: 57001-1243

• Remove:

Clutch Hub

Spacer

• Remove the oil pump sprocket bolt [A].

NOTE

○The oil pump sprocket bolt has a left-hand threads.

• Using the hole [B], pull out the sleeve [C].

• Remove the following as a set.

Clutch Housing [D]

Oil Pump Chain [E]

Oil Pump Sprocket [F]

• Unscrew the bolts [A] and remove the oil pump chain

guide [B].

Clutch Installation

• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the oil pump

chain guide bolts and tighten them.

Torque - Oil Pump Chain Guide Bolts: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m,

106 in·lb)

• Put the oil pump chain [A] on the clutch housing gear [B]

and the oil pump sprocket [C].

6-12 CLUTCH

Clutch

• Be sure that the spacer [A] is in position.

• Insert the following on the drive shaft.

Clutch Housing [A] with Chain [B] and Sprocket [C]

Sleeve [D]

• Align [E] the hole on the oil pump sprocket with the oil

pump shaft.

NOTE

○Insert the sleeve into the clutch housing, noting its di-

rection as shown.

Sleeve [A]

Oil Holes [B]

Long Distance [C]

Short Distance [D]

Clutch Housing [E]

• Install the following parts on the drive shaft.

Spacer [A]

Clutch Hub [B]

Washer [C]

Nut [D]

○Install the washer so that the OUTSIDE mark [A] faces

outward.

CLUTCH 6-13

Clutch

○Replace the clutch hub nut with a new one.

○Holding the clutch hub, tighten the clutch hub nut.

Special Tool - Clutch Holder: 57001-1243

Torque - Clutch Hub Nut: 132 N·m (13.5 kgf·m, 98 ft·lb)

• Install the friction plates and steel plates, starting with a

friction plate and alternating them.

CAUTION

If new dry friction plates and steel plates are in-

stalled, apply engine oil to the surfaces of each

plate to avoid clutch plate seizure.

○For the first steel plate [A], its thickness is 2.6 mm (0.10

in.). The others are 2.3 mm (0.09 in.).

○Install the last friction plate [A] fitting the tangs in the

grooves in the housing as shown.

• Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the pusher ends

[A] and install it in the clutch spring plate [B].

○Apply engine oil to the bearing [C].

• Install the clutch spring plate and springs [D], and tighten

the clutch spring bolts [E].

Torque - Clutch Spring Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)

• Install the clutch cover (see Clutch Cover Installation).

Clutch Plate, Wear, Damage Inspection

• Visually inspect the friction and steel plates for signs of

seizure, overheating (discoloration), or uneven wear.

• Measure the thickness of each friction plate [A] at several

points.

If any plates show signs of damage, or if they have worn

past the service limit, replace them with new ones.

Friction Plate Thickness

Standard:

2.92 ∼ 3.08 mm (0.115 ∼ 0.121 in.)

Service Limit:

2.8 mm (0.110 in.)

6-14 CLUTCH

Clutch

Clutch Plate Warp Inspection

• Place each friction plate or steel plate on a surface plate

and measure the gap between the surface plate [A] and

each friction plate or steel plate [B] with a thickness gauge

[C]. The gap is the amount of friction or steel plate warp.

If any plate is warped over the service limit, replace it with

a new one.

Friction and Steel Plate Warp

Standard:

0.15 mm (0.006 in.) or less

Service Limit:

0.3 mm (0.012 in.)

Clutch Spring Free Length Measurement

• Measure the free length of the clutch springs [A].

If any spring is shorter than the service limit, it must be

replaced.

Clutch Spring Free Length

Standard:

33.6 mm (1.32 in.)

Service Limit:

32.6 mm (1.28 in.)

Clutch Housing Finger Inspection

• Visually inspect the clutch housing fingers [A] where the

friction plate tangs [B] hit them.

If they are badly worn or if there are groove cuts where the

tangs hit, replace the housing. Also, replace the friction

plates if their tangs are damaged.

Clutch Housing Spline Inspection

• Visually inspect where the teeth [A] on the steel plates

wear against the clutch hub splines [B].

If there are notches worn into the splines, replace the

clutch hub. Also, replace the steel plates if their teeth are

damaged.

7-2 ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM

Exploded View

ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM 7-3

Exploded View

Torque

No.

Fastener

Remarks

N·m

kgf·m

ft·lb

1

Engine Oil Drain Bolt

30

3.0

22

2

Filter Plate Bolts

9.8

1.0

87 in·lb

L

3

Oil Filter

17.2

1.75

13

EO, R

4

Holder Mounting Bolt

25

2.5

18

L

5

Oil Pan Bolts

12

1.2

106 in·lb

6

Oil Pipe Plate Bolt

9.8

1.0

87 in·lb

L

7

Oil Pressure Relief Valve

15

1.5

11

L

8

Oil Pressure Switch

15

1.5

11

SS

9

Oil Pump Cover Bolts

9.8

1.0

87 in·lb

L

10

Oil Pump Sprocket Bolt

12

1.2

106 in·lb

L, Lh

11

Oil Passage Plug

20

2.0

15

L

12

Lower Fairing Bracket Bolts

12

1.2

106 in·lb

L

13

Oil Pump Chain Guide Bolts

12

1.2

106 in·lb

L

14

Oil Plate Bolts

9.8

1.0

87 in·lb

L

EO: Apply engine oil.

G: Apply grease.

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

Lh: Left-hand threads

MO: Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution.

(mixture of the engine oil and molybdenum disulfide grease in a weight ratio 10 : 1)

R: Replacement Parts

SS: Apply silicone sealant.

7-4 ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM

Engine Oil Flow Chart

ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM 7-5

Engine Oil Flow Chart

7-8 ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM

Engine Oil and Oil Filter

WARNING

Motorcycle operation with insufficient, deteri-

orated, or contaminated engine oil will cause

accelerated wear and may result in engine or trans-

mission seizure, accident, and injury.

Oil Level Inspection

• Check that the engine oil level is between the upper [A]

and lower [B] levels in the gauge.

NOTE

○Situate the motorcycle so that it is perpendicular to the

ground.

○If the motorcycle has just been used, wait several min-

utes for all the oil to drain down.

○If the oil has just been changed, start the engine and

run it for several minutes at idle speed. This fills the oil

filter with oil. Stop the engine, then wait several minutes

until the oil settles.

CAUTION

Racing the engine before the oil reaches every part

can cause engine seizure.

If the engine oil gets extremely low or if the oil pump

or oil passages clog up or otherwise do not function

properly, the oil pressure warning light will light. If

this light stays on when the engine is running above

idle speed, stop the engine immediately and find the

cause.

If the oil level is too high, remove the excess oil, using a

syring or some other suitable device.

If the oil level is too low, add the correct amount of oil

through the oil filter opening. Use the same type and

make of oil that is already in the engine.

NOTE

○If the engine oil type and make are unknown, use any

brand of the specified oil to top off the level in preference

to running the engine with the oil level low. Then at your

earliest convenience, change the oil completely.

Engine Oil Change

• Refer to the Engine Oil Change in the Periodic Mainte-

nance chapter.

Oil Filter Replacement

• Refer to the Oil Filter Replacement in the Periodic Main-

tenance chapter.

ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM 7-9

Oil Pan

Oil Pan Removal

• Remove:

Engine Oil (Drain, see Engine Oil Change in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter)

Exhaust Pipe (see Exhaust Pipe Removal in the Engine

Top End chapter)

Muffler Body (see Muffler Body Removal in the Engine

Top End chapter)

Oil Pan Bolts [A]

Oil Pan [B]

Gasket [C]

Damper [D]

• Remove the following from the oil pan as necessary.

Filter Plate Bolts [A]

Filter Plate [B]

Filter [C]

• Remove the following from the lower crankcase half as

necessary.

Oil Screen [A]

Oil Pipe Plate Bolt [B]

Oil Pipe Plate [C]

Oil Pipes [D]

Oil Pressure Relief Valve [E]

7-10 ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM

Oil Pan

Oil Pan Installation

• Apply grease to the O-rings on the oil pipes [A].

• Install the oil pipe plate [B] so that its guide portion [C] fits

the breather pipe [D] as shown.

• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the oil pipe plate

bolt.

Torque - Oil Pipe Plate Bolt [E]: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)

If the oil pressure relief valve [F] was removed, install it.

○Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads [G]

of the oil pressure relief valve, and tighten it.

CAUTION

Do not apply too much non-permanent locking

agent to the threads. This may block the oil pas-

sage.

Torque - Oil Pressure Relief Valve: 15 N·m (1.5 kgf·m, 11

ft·lb)

• Apply grease to the O-ring [A] on the oil screen [B] and

install it on the lower crankcase half as shown.

• Be sure the damper [C] is on the end of the breather pipe

[D].

• Replace the oil pan gasket with a new one.

• When installing the oil pan, align [A] the damper [B] on

the breather pipe with the hollow [C] on the oil pan.

• Tighten:

Torque - Oil Pan Bolts: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 106 in·lb)

ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM 7-11

Oil Pressure Relief Valve

Oil Pressure Relief Valve Removal

• Refer to the Oil Pan Removal.

Oil Pressure Relief Valve Installation

• Refer to the Oil Pan Installation.

Oil Pressure Relief Valve Inspection

• Check to see if the valve [A] slides smoothly when push-

ing it in with a wooden or other soft rod, and see if it comes

back to its seat by spring [B] pressure.

NOTE

○Inspect the valve in its assembled state. Disassembly

and assembly may change the valve performance.

If any rough spots are found during above inspection,

wash the valve clean with a high-flash point solvent and

blow out any foreign particles that may be in the valve with

compressed air.

WARNING

Clean the oil pressure relief valve in a well

-ventilated area, and take care that there is no

spark or flame anywhere near the working area.

Because of the danger of highly flammable liquids,

do not use gasoline or low-flash point solvent.

If cleaning does not solve the problem, replace the oil

pressure relief valve as an assembly. The oil pressure

relief valve is precision made with no allowance for re-

placement of individual parts.

7-12 ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM

Oil Pump

Oil Pump Removal

• Drain:

Engine Oil (see Engine Oil Change in the Periodic Main-

tenance chapter)

• Remove:

Clutch (see Clutch Removal in the Clutch chapter)

Oil Pump Cover Bolts [A]

Oil Pump Cover [B]

• Remove:

Inner Rotor [A] for Scavenge Pump

Outer Rotor [B] for Scavenge Pump

• Remove:

Dowel Pin [A]

Pin [B]

Oil Pump Body [C] with Oil Pump Shaft [D] and Pin

• Remove:

Inner Rotor [A] for Feed Pump

Outer Rotor [B] for Feed Pump

ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM 7-13

Oil Pump

Oil Pump Installation

• Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the portion [A] of

the oil pump shaft as shown.

• Install:

Outer Rotor [B] for Feed Pump

Inner Rotor [C] for Feed Pump

Oil Pump Shaft [D] and Pin [E]

Dowel Pin [F]

Oil Pump Body [G]

Pin [H] and Inner Rotor [I] for Scavenge Pump

Outer Rotor [J] for Scavenge Pump

Oil Pump Cover [K]

NOTE

○The scavenge pump rotors are wider than the feed

pump rotors.

• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the oil pump

cover bolts and tighten them.

Torque - Oil Pump Cover Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)

7-14 ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM

Oil Pressure Measurement

Oil Pressure Measurement

• Remove the right lower fairing (see Lower Fairing Re-

moval in the Frame chapter).

• Remove the oil passage plug, and attach the adapter [A]

and gauge [B] to the plug hole.

Special Tools - Oil Pressure Gauge, 10 kgf/cm²: 57001-164

Oil Pressure Gauge Adapter, PT3/8: 57001

-1233

• Start the engine and warm up the engine.

• Run the engine at the specified speed, and read the oil

pressure gauge.

If the oil pressure is much lower than the standard, check

the oil pump, relief valve, and/or crankshaft bearing insert

wear immediately.

If the reading is much higher than the standard, check the

oil passages for clogging.

Oil Pressure

Standard:

216 ∼ 294 kPa (2.2 ∼ 3.0 kgf/cm², 31 ∼ 43

psi) at 4 000 r/min (rpm), oil temperature.

90°C (194°F)

• Stop the engine.

• Remove the oil pressure gauge and adapter.

WARNING

Take care against burns form hot engine oil that

will drain through the oil passage when the gauge

adapter is removed.

• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the oil passage

plug, and install it.

Torque - Oil Passage Plug: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)

ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM 7-15

Oil Pressure Switch

Oil Pressure Switch Removal

• Remove:

Engine Oil (Drain, see Engine Oil Change in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter)

Right Lower Fairing (see Lower Fairing Removal in the

Frame chapter)

Switch Cover [A]

Switch Terminal Bolt [B]

Oil Pressure Switch [C]

Oil Pressure Switch Installation

• Apply silicone sealant to the threads of the oil pressure

switch and tighten it.

Sealant - Kawasaki Bond (Silicone Sealant): 56019-120

Torque - Oil Pressure Switch: 15 N·m (1.5 kgf·m, 11 ft·lb)

• Tighten the terminal bolt securely.

• Apply a small amount grease to the terminal so that

grease should not close two breather holes [A] for switch

diaphragm.

8-2 ENGINE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

Exploded View

ENGINE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION 8-3

Exploded View

Torque

No.

Fastener

Remarks

N·m

kgf·m

ft·lb

1

Rear Engine Mounting Nuts

44

4.5

32

S

2

Front Engine Mounting Bolts

44

4.5

32

S

3

Engine Mounting Bracket Bolts

25

2.5

18

S

4. Engine Mounting Brackets

5. Collar

S: Follow the specified tightening sequence.

8-4 ENGINE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

Engine Removal/Installation

Engine Removal

• Support the rear part of the swingarm with a stand.

• Squeeze the brake lever slowly and hold it with a band

[A].

WARNING

Be sure to hold the front brake when removing the

engine, or the motorcycle may fall over. It could

cause an accident and injury.

CAUTION

Be sure to hold the front brake when removing the

engine, or the motorcycle may fall over. The engine

or the motorcycle could be damaged.

• Drain:

Engine Oil (see Engine Oil Change in the Periodic Main-

tenance chapter)

Coolant (see Coolant Change in the Periodic Mainte-

nance chapter)

• Remove:

Seat (see Seat Removal in the Frame chapter)

Lower Fairings (see Lower Fairing Removal in the Frame

chapter)

Upper Inner Fairings (see Upper Inner Fairing Removal

in the Frame chapter)

Windshield (see Windshield Removal in the Frame

chapter)

Meter Cover (see Meter Unit Removal/Installation in the

Electrical System chapter)

Center Fairings (see Center Fairing Removal in the

Frame chapter)

Side Covers (see Side Cover Removal in the Frame

chapter)

Frame Covers (see Frame Cover Removal in the Frame

chapter)

Radiator and Hoses (see Radiator and Radiator Fan Re-

moval in the Cooling System chapter)

• Pull the clamp [A] on the lower fairing bracket.

• Unscrew the lower fairing bracket bolts (both sides) [B]

and remove the brackets (both sides) [C].

• Disconnect the oil pressure switch terminal [D].

ENGINE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION 8-5

Engine Removal/Installation

• Disconnect the crankshaft sensor lead connector [A].

• Remove:

Exhaust Pipe (see Exhaust Pipe Removal in the Engine

Top End chapter)

Muffler Body (see Muffler Body Removal in the Engine

Top End chapter)

Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel System

(DFI) chapter)

Air Switching Valve and Hose (see Air Switching Valve

Removal in the Engine Top End chapter)

Air Cleaner Housing (see Air Cleaner Housing

Removal in the Fuel System (DFI) chapter)

Throttle Body Assy (see Throttle Body Assy Removal in

the Fuel System (DFI) chapter)

Clutch Cable (see Clutch Cable Removal in the Clutch

chapter)

• Remove:

Stick Coils [A]

Baffle Plate [B]

Hose [C]

• Remove or Disconnect:

Water Temperature Sensor Lead Connector [A]

Starter Motor Cable [B]

Engine Ground Cable Terminal Bolt [C]

Alternator Lead Connector [D]

Sidestand Switch Lead Connector [E]

Speed Sensor Lead Connector [F]

8-6 ENGINE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

Engine Removal/Installation

• Remove the engine sprocket cover (see Engine Sprocket

Removal in the Final Drive chapter).

• Remove the shift pedal [A] (see Shift Pedal Removal in

the Crankshaft/Transmission chapter).

• Disconnect:

Oxygen Sensor Lead Connector [B] (Europe Models)

Neutral Switch Lead Terminal [C]

• Remove the bracket [D] and the engine sprocket [E] (see

Engine Sprocket Removal in the Final Drive chapter).

• Support the engine with a stand or jack [A].

○Put a wooden board [B] on the suitable stand.

• Remove the engine mounting bolts [C].

• Remove the engine mounting bracket bolts (both sides)

[D] and remove the brackets [E].

• Remove the engine [F].

ENGINE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION 8-7

Engine Removal/Installation

Engine Installation

• Firstly, insert the rear engine mounting bolts [A] from the

left side of the engine.

• Secondly, temporally tighten the right engine mounting

bracket bolts [B] and then the right front engine mounting

bolt [C].

○Position the collar [D] as shown.

• Thirdly, temporally tighten the left engine mounting

bracket bolts [E] and then the left front engine mounting

bolt [F].

• Fourthly, temporally tighten the rear engine mounting nuts

[G].

• Fifthly, tighten the rear engine mounting nuts.

Torque - Rear Engine Mounting Nuts: 44 N·m (4.5 kgf·m, 32

ft·lb)

• Sixthly, tighten the right engine mounting bracket bolts.

Torque - Engine Mounting Bracket Bolts:

25 N·m (2.5

kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)

• Seventhly, tighten the right front engine mounting bolt.

Torque - Front Engine Mounting Bolt: 44 N·m (4.5 kgf·m, 32

ft·lb)

• Eighthly, tighten the left engine mounting bracket bolts.

Torque - Engine Mounting Bracket Bolts:

25 N·m (2.5

kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)

• Lastly, tighten the left front engine mounting bolt.

Torque - Front Engine Mounting Bolt: 44 N·m (4.5 kgf·m, 32

ft·lb)

• Install the engine sprocket (see Engine Sprocket Installa-

tion in the Final Drive chapter).

• Run the leads, cables, and hoses correctly (see Cable,

Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter).

• Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).

• Adjust:

Throttle Cables (see Throttle Control System Inspection

in the Periodic Maintenance chapter)

Clutch Cable (see Clutch Operation Inspection in the Pe-

riodic Maintenance chapter)

Drive Chain (see Drive Chain Slack Adjustment in the

Periodic Maintenance chapter)

• Fill the engine with engine oil (see Engine Oil Change in

the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

• Fill the engine with coolant and bleed the air from the cool-

ing system (see Coolant Change in the Periodic Mainte-

nance chapter).

• Adjust the idling (see Idle Speed Adjustment in the Peri-

odic Maintenance chapter).

9-2 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Exploded View

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-3

Exploded View

Torque

No.

Fastener

Remarks

N·m

kgf·m

ft·lb

1

Connecting Rod Big End Nuts

see Text

←

←

MO

2

Timing Rotor Bolt

40

4.1

30

3

Oil Plate Bolts

9.8

1.0

87 in·lb

L

4

Breather Plate Bolts

9.8

1.0

87 in·lb

L

5

Shift Shaft Return Spring Pin

29

2.9

22

L

6

Oil Pipe Bolts

9.8

1.0

87 in·lb

L

7

Crankcase Bolts (M9, L = 113 mm)

44

4.5

32

MO, S

8

Crankcase Bolts (M9, L = 83 mm)

44

4.5

32

MO, S

9

Crankcase Bolts (M8, L = 73 mm)

35

3.6

26

MO, S

10

Crankcase Bolts (M8, L = 60 mm)

35

3.6

26

MO, S

11

Crankcase Bolts (M8, L = 110 mm)

27.5

2.8

20

S

12

Crankcase Bolts (M8, L = 50 mm)

27.5

2.8

20

S

13

Crankcase Bolts (M6)

19.6

2.0

15

S

14

Upper Crankcase Bolts

27.5

2.8

20

S

15. Do not apply any grease or oil.

G: Apply grease.

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

LG: Apply liquid gasket.

M: Apply molybdenum disulfide grease.

MO: Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution.

(mixture of the engine oil and molybdenum disulfide grease in a weight ratio 10 : 1)

R: Replacement Parts

S: Follow the specified tightening sequence.

SS: Apply silicone sealant.

9-4 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Exploded View

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-5

Exploded View

Torque

No.

Fastener

Remarks

N·m

kgf·m

ft·lb

1

Gear Positioning Lever Bolt

12

1.2

106 in·lb

L

2

Transmission Case Bolts

20

2.0

15

3

Shift Drum Cam Bolt

12

1.2

106 in·lb

L

4

Shift Drum Bearing Holder Screw

4.9

0.50

43 in·lb

L

5

Shift Rod Plate Bolt

9.8

1.0

87 in·lb

6

Neutral Switch Holder Screw

4.9

0.50

43 in·lb

L

7

Neutral Switch

15

1.5

11

8

Shift Shaft Cover Bolts

9.8

1.0

87 in·lb

L (2)

9

Shift Shaft Cover Screw

4.9

0.50

43 in·lb

L

EO: Apply engine oil.

G: Apply grease.

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

MO: Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution.

(mixture of the engine oil and molybdenum disulfide grease in a weight ratio 10 : 1)

R: Replacement Parts

9-6 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Specifications

Item

Standard

Service Limit

Crankshaft, Connecting Rods

Connecting Rod Bend

- - -

TIR 0.2/100 mm

(0.008/3.94 in.)

Connecting Rod Twist

- - -

TIR 0.2/100 mm

(0.008/3.94 in.)

Connecting Rod Big End Side Clearance

0.13 ∼ 0.38 mm

0.58 mm

(0.0051 ∼ 0.0150 in.)

(0.023 in.)

Connecting Rod Big End Bearing Insert/Crankpin

0.017 ∼ 0.041 mm

0.08 mm

Clearance

(0.0007 ∼ 0.0016 in.)

(0.0031 in.)

Crankpin Diameter:

37.984 ∼ 38.000 mm

37.97 mm

(1.4954 ∼ 1.4961 in.)

(1.4949 in.)

Marking:

None

37.984 ∼ 37.992 mm

- - -

(1.4954 ∼ 1.4957 in.)

○

37.993 ∼ 38.000 mm

- - -

(1.4958 ∼ 1.4961 in.)

Connecting Rod Big End Inside Diameter:

41.000 ∼ 41.016 mm

- - -

(1.6142 ∼ 1.6148 in.)

Marking:

None

41.000 ∼ 41.008 mm

- - -

(1.6142 ∼ 1.6145 in.)

○

41.009 ∼ 41.016 mm

- - -

(1.6145 ∼ 1.6148 in.)

Connecting Rod Big End Bearing Insert Thickness:

Brown

1.475 ∼ 1.480 mm

- - -

(0.05807 ∼ 0.05827 in.)

Black

1.480 ∼ 1.485 mm

- - -

(0.05827 ∼ 0.05846 in.)

Blue

1.485 ∼ 1.490 mm

- - -

(0.05846 ∼ 0.05866 in.)

Connecting Rod Big End Bearing Insert Selection:

Con-rod Big End

Bearing Insert

Crankpin Diameter

Bore Diameter

Marking

Size Color

Part Number

Marking

None

○

Brown

92139-0116

None

None

Black

92139-0115

○

○

○

None

Blue

92139-0114

Connecting Rod Bolt Stretch: (Usable Range)

New Connecting Rod

0.24 ∼ 0.36 mm

- - -

(0.0094 ∼ 0.0142 in.)

Used Connecting Rod

0.20 ∼ 0.32 mm

- - -

(0.0079 ∼ 0.0126 in.)

Crankshaft Side Clearance

0.05 ∼ 0.20 mm

0.40 mm

(0.0020 ∼ 0.0079 in.)

(0.0157 in.)

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-7

Specifications

Item

Standard

Service Limit

Crankshaft Runout

TIR 0.02 mm (0.0008 in.)

TIR 0.05 mm

or less

(0.0020 in.)

Crankshaft Main Bearing Insert/Journal Clearance

0.012 ∼ 0.036 mm

0.07 mm

(0.0005 ∼ 0.0014 in.)

(0.0028 in.)

Crankshaft Main Journal Diameter:

37.984 ∼ 38.000 mm

37.96 mm

(1.4954 ∼ 1.4961 in.)

(1.4945 in.)

Marking:

None

37.984 ∼ 37.992 mm

- - -

(1.4954 ∼ 1.4957 in.)

1

37.993 ∼ 38.000 mm

- - -

(1.4958 ∼ 1.4961 in.)

Crankcase Main Bearing Inside Diameter:

41.000 ∼ 41.016 mm

- - -

(1.6142 ∼ 1.6148 in.)

Marking:

○

41.000 ∼ 41.008 mm

- - -

(1.6142 ∼ 1.6145 in.)

None

41.009 ∼ 41.016 mm

- - -

(1.6145 ∼ 1.6148 in.)

Crankshaft Main Bearing Insert Thickness:

Brown

1.490 ∼ 1.494 mm

- - -

(0.0587 ∼ 0.0588 in.)

Black

1.494 ∼ 1.498 mm

- - -

(0.0588 ∼ 0.0590 in.)

Blue

1.498 ∼ 1.502 mm

- - -

(0.0590 ∼ 0.0591 in.)

Crankshaft Main Bearing Insert Selection:

Crankcase Main

Crankshaft Main

Bearing Insert*

Bearing Inside

Journal Diameter

Size Color

Part Number

Diameter Marking

Marking

○

1

Brown

92028-1905

None

1

Black

92028-1904

○

None

None

None

Blue

92028-1903

*The bearing inserts for Nos. 1, 2 and 3 journals have oil grooves.

Balancer Shaft

Balancer Shaft Bearing Insert/Journal Clearance

0.011 ∼ 0.033 mm

0.08 mm

(0.0004 ∼ 0.0013 in.)

(0.0031 in.)

Balancer Shaft Journal Diameter:

27.987 ∼ 28.000 mm

27.96 mm

(1.1019 ∼ 1.1024 in.)

(1.1108 in.)

Marking:

None

27.987 ∼ 27.993 mm

- - -

(1.1019 ∼ 1.1021 in.)

○

27.994 ∼ 28.000 mm

- - -

(1.1021 ∼ 1.1024 in.)

9-8 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Specifications

Item

Standard

Service Limit

Crankcase Bearing Bore Diameter:

31.000 ∼ 31.016 mm

- - -

(1.2205 ∼ 1.2228 in.)

Marking:

○

31.000 ∼ 31.008 mm

- - -

(1.2205 ∼ 1.2208 in.)

None

31.009 ∼ 31.016 mm

- - -

(1.2208 ∼ 1.2211 in.)

Balancer Shaft Bearing Insert Thickness:

Brown

1.490 ∼ 1.494 mm

- - -

(0.0587 ∼ 0.0588 in.)

Black

1.494 ∼ 1.498 mm

- - -

(0.0588 ∼ 0.0590 in.)

Blue

1.498 ∼ 1.502 mm

- - -

(0.0590 ∼ 0.0591 in.)

Balancer Shaft Bearing Insert Selection:

Crankcase Bearing

Balancer Shaft

Bearing Insert*

Bore Diameter

Journal Diameter

Size Color

Part Number

Marking

Marking

○

○

Brown

92139-0119

○

None

Black

92139-0118

None

○

None

None

Blue

92139-0117

*The bearing inserts for Nos. 1,2 journals have oil grooves.

Transmission

Shift Fork Ear Thickness

5.9 ∼ 6.0 mm

5.8 mm

(0.232 ∼ 0.236 in.)

(0.228 in.)

Gear Groove Width

6.05 ∼ 6.15 mm

6.25 mm

(0.238 ∼ 0.242 in.)

(0.246 in.)

Shift Fork Guide Pin Diameter

6.9 ∼ 7.0 mm

6.8 mm

(0.272 ∼ 0.276 in.)

(0.268 in.)

Shift Drum Groove Width

7.05 ∼ 7.20 mm

7.3 mm

(0.278 ∼ 0.283 in.)

(0.287 in.)

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-9

Special Tools and Sealant

Outside Circlip Pliers:

Kawasaki Bond:

57001-144

92104-1064

Bearing Driver Set:

57001-1129

9-10 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Crankcase Splitting

Crankcase Splitting

• Remove:

Engine (see Engine Removal in the Engine Removal/In-

stallation chapter)

Cylinder (see Cylinder Removal in the Engine Top End

chapter)

Pistons (see Piston Removal in the Engine Top End

chapter)

Stater Motor (see Starter Motor Removal in the Electrical

System chapter)

Clutch (see Clutch Removal in the Clutch chapter)

Transmission Assy (see Transmission Assy Removal)

Alternator Rotor (see Alternator Rotor Removal in the

Electrical System chapter)

• Remove the upper crankcase bolts [A] and the washers.

• Remove the oil pan, relief valve, oil screen and oil pipes

(see Oil Pan Removal in the Engine Lubrication System

chapter).

• Remove the lower crankcase bolts.

○Firstly loosen the M6 bolts, secondly the M8 bolts and

lastly the M9 bolts.

M6 Bolts [A]

M8 Bolts [B]

M9 Bolts [C] and Washers

• Tap lightly around the crankcase mating surface with a

plastic mallet, and split the crankcase. Take care not to

damage the crankcase.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-11

Crankcase Splitting

If the oil pipe is to be removed, follow the next procedure.

○Unscrew the bolts [A] and remove the oil pipe [B].

○Prepare a 5 mm rod [A], and insert it to the hole of the

upper crankcase half.

○Remove the oil pipe [B], tapping [C] the rod as shown.

If the breather plate [A] is to be removed, follow the next

procedure.

○Remove the oil pipe (see above).

○Cut the gasket around the plate [B].

○Remove:

Breather Plate Bolts [C]

Breather Plate with Pipe

Crankcase Assembly

CAUTION

The upper and lower crankcase halves are ma-

chined at the factory in the assembled state, so the

crankcase halves must be replaced as a set.

• With a high-flash point solvent, clean off the mating sur-

faces of the crankcases halves and wipe dry.

• Using compressed air, blow out the oil passages in the

crankcase halves.

• If the oil plate [A] on the upper crankcase half was re-

moved, install it as shown.

• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the oil plate bolts

and torque them.

Torque - Oil Plate Bolts [B]: 9.8 N·m (1.0 N·m, 87 in·lb)

9-12 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Crankcase Splitting

• Press and insert [A] the new needle bearing [B] for the

shift drum until it is bottomed.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129

• Press and insert [C] the new needle bearing [D] for the

shift shaft so that the bearing surface is flush with the end

of the hole.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129

Lower Crankcase Half [E]

• Apply silicone sealant to the breather plate mating surface

[A] 1 mm (0.04 in.) or more thick, and then install the

breather plate.

Sealant - Three Bond: TB1207B

NOTE

○Make the application finish within 7 minutes when the

liquid gasket to the mating surface of the breather plate

is applied.

○Moreover fit the plate and tighten the bolts just after

application of the liquid gasket.

• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads and

tighten the bolts [A].

Torque - Breather Plate Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)

• Install the breather pipe [A].

○Align the white mark [B] on the pipe with the white mark

[C] on the breather fittling.

○Install the clamp [D] so that the pinch portions [E] face the

white marks.

• Install the oil pipe [A] so that its flange [B] touches to the

surface [C] of the upper crankcase half.

• Apply grease to the O-ring [D] on the oil pipe.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-13

Crankcase Splitting

• Install the crankshaft assembly and the balancer shaft as-

sembly on the upper crankcase half.

○Align [A] the timing mark on the balancer gear [B] with the

timing mark on the balancer drive gear [C] of the crank-

shaft.

• Be sure to hang the camshaft chain [A] on the crankshaft.

• Be sure that the dowel pins [A] are in position.

• Set the bearing groove [A] on the positioning ring [B] as

shown.

9-14 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Crankcase Splitting

• Apply liquid gasket [A] to the mating surface of the lower

crankcase half.

Sealant - Kawasaki Bond: 92104-1064

NOTE

○Especially, apply a liquid gasket carefully so that it shall

be filled up on the grooves.

CAUTION

Do not apply liquid gasket around the crankshaft

main bearing inserts, and oil passage holes.

○Do not apply liquid gasket to the oil passage [B].

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-15

Crankcase Splitting

• Fit the lower crankcase half to the upper crankcase half.

○Insert [A] the breather pipe [B] on the upper crankcase

half through the hole [C] on the lower crankcase half.

NOTE

○Make the application finish within 20 minutes when

the liquid gasket to the mating surface of the lower

crankcase half is applied.

○Moreover fit the case and tighten the case bolts just

after finishing the application of the liquid gasket.

○The M9 bolts [1 ∼ 6] (see the next figure) have copper

plated washers. Replace them with new ones.

• Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to both sides [A]

of the M9 bolts washers and the threads [B] of the M9

bolts.

• Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to flange [A] and

the threads [B] of the M8 bolts which is tightening order is

[7 ∼ 10] only (see the next figure).

9-16 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Crankcase Splitting

• Tighten the lower crankcase bolts using the following

steps.

○Following the sequence numbers on the lower crankcase

half, tighten the M9 bolts [1, 2] L= 113 mm (4.45 in.) with

washers.

Torque - Crankcase Bolts (M9): 44 N·m (4.5 kgf·m, 32 ft·lb)

○Tighten the M9 bolts [3, 4] L= 83 mm (3.27 in.) with wash-

ers.

Torque - Crankcase Bolts (M9): 44 N·m (4.5 kgf·m, 32 ft·lb)

○Tighten the M9 bolts [5, 6] L= 113 mm (4.45 in.) with

washers.

Torque - Crankcase Bolts (M9): 44 N·m (4.5 kgf·m, 32 ft·lb)

○Tighten the M8 bolts [7 ∼ 10].

Torque - Crankcase Bolts (M8): 35 N·m (3.6 kgf·m, 26 ft·lb)

○Tighten the M8 bolts [A] (Do not apply molybdenum oil

solution).

Torque - Crankcase Bolts (M8):

27.5 N·m (2.8 kgf·m, 20

ft·lb)

○Tighten the M6 bolts [B].

Torque - Crankcase Bolts (M6):

19.6 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15

ft·lb)

• Tighten the upper crankcase bolts.

○The upper crankcase bolts have copper plated washers.

Replace them with new ones.

Torque - Upper Crankcase Bolts [A]: 27.5 N·m (2.8 kgf·m,

20 ft·lb)

• After tightening all crankcase bolts, check the following

items.

○Crankshaft and balancer shafts turn freely.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-17

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

Crankshaft Removal

• Split the crankcase (see Crankcase Splitting).

• Remove the crankshaft [A].

Crankshaft Installation

CAUTION

If the crankshaft, bearing inserts, or crankcase

halves are replaced with new ones, select the bear-

ing inserts and check clearance with a plastigage

(press gauge) before assembling engine to be sure

the correct bearing inserts are installed.

• Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to the crankshaft

main bearing inserts.

○Align [A] the timing mark on the balancer gear [B] with the

timing mark on the balancer drive gear [C] of the crank-

shaft.

• Install the crankshaft with the camshaft chain [A] hanging

on it.

Connecting Rod Removal

• Split the crankcase (see Crankcase Splitting).

• Remove the connecting rod nuts [A].

• Remove the crankshaft.

NOTE

○Mark and record the locations of the connecting rods

and their big end caps so that they can be reassembled

in their original positions.

• Remove the connecting rods from the crankshaft.

CAUTION

Discard the connecting rod bolts. To prevent dam-

age to the crankpin surfaces, do not allow the con-

necting rod bolts to bump against the crankpins.

9-18 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

Connecting Rod Installation

CAUTION

To minimize vibration, the connecting rods should

have the same weight mark.

Big End Cap [A]

Connecting Rod [B]

Weight Mark, Alphabet [C]

Diameter Mark [D]: “○” or no mark

CAUTION

If the connecting rods, big end bearing inserts, or

crankshaft are replaced with new ones, select the

bearing insert and check clearance with a plasti-

gage (press gauge) before assembling engine to be

sure the correct bearing inserts are installed.

• Apply molybdenum disulfide grease [A] to the outer sur-

face of the upper insert and the inner surface of the con-

necting rod big end.

• Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution [B] to the inner

surfaces of upper and lower bearing inserts.

○The molybdenum disulfide oil solution is a mixture of en-

gine oil and molybdenum disulfide grease with a weight

ratio (10 : 1).

○Do not apply any grease or oil [C] to the cap inside and

cap insert outside.

○Install the inserts so that their nails [D] are on the same

side and fit them into the recess of the connecting rod and

cap.

CAUTION

Wrong application of oil and grease could cause

bearing damage.

○When installing the inserts [A], be careful not to damage

the insert surface with the edge of the connecting rod [B]

or the cap [C]. One way to install inserts is as follows.

Installation [D] to Cap

Installation [E] to Connecting Rod

Push [F]

Spare Dowel Pin [G]

Connecting Rod Bolts [H]

• Install the cap on the connecting rod, aligning the weight

and diameter marks.

• Remove debris and clean the surface of inserts.

• Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution [MO] to the

threads and seating surfaces of the big end nuts and

bolts.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-19

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

• Install the crankshaft (see Crankshaft Installation).

• Install each connecting rod on its original crankpin.

NOTE

○Install each connecting rod so that its oil jet [A] faces the

exhaust side (the front [B]) (see Engine Oil Flow Chart

in the Engine Lubrication System chapter).

○The connecting rod big end is bolted using the “plastic

region fastening method”.

○This method precisely achieves the needed clamping

force without exceeding it unnecessarily, allowing the

use of thinner, lighter bolts further decreasing connecting

rod weight.

○There are two types of the plastic region fastening. One is

a bolt length measurement method and other is a rotation

angle method. Observe one of the following two, but the

bolt length measurement method is preferable because

this is a more reliable way to tighten the big end nuts.

CAUTION

The connecting rod bolts are designed to stretch

when tightened. Never reuse the connecting rod

bolts. See the table below for correct bolt and nut

usage.

CAUTION

Be careful not to overtighten the nuts.

The bolts must be positioned on the seating surface

correctly to prevent the bolt heads from hitting the

crankcase.

(1) Bolt Length Measurement Method

• Be sure to clean the bolts, nuts, and connecting rods

thoroughly with a high-flash point solvent, because the

new connecting rods, bolts, and nuts are treated with an

anti-rust solution.

WARNING

Clean the bolts, nuts, and connecting rods in a well

-ventilated area, and take care that there is no spark

or flame anywhere near the working area. This in-

cludes any appliance with a pilot light. Because of

the danger of highly flammable liquids, do not use

gasoline or low-flash point solvents to clean them.

CAUTION

Immediately dry the bolts and nuts with com-

pressed air after cleaning.

Clean and dry the bolts and nuts completely.

9-20 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

• Install new bolts in reused connecting rods.

• Dent both bolt head and bolt tip with a punch as shown.

• Before tightening, use a point micrometer [A] to measure

the length of new connecting rod bolts and record the val-

ues to find the bolt stretch.

Connecting Rod [B]

Mark here with a punch [C].

Nuts [D]

Fit micrometer pins into punch marks [E].

• Apply a small amount of molybdenum disulfide oil solution

to the following.

Threads of Nuts and Bolts

Seating Surfaces of Nuts and Con-rods

• Tighten the big end nuts until the bolt elongation reaches

the length specified in the table.

• Check the length [F] of the connecting rod bolts.

If the stretch is more than the usable range, the bolt has

stretched too much. An overelongated bolt may break in

use.

Bolt Length

Bolt Length

-

= Bolt Stretch

after tightening

before tightening

Connect-

Usable Range of

ing Rod

Bolt

Nut

Connecting Rod

Assy

Bolt Stretch

Use the bolts

Attached to

0.24 ∼ 0.36 mm

New

attached to

new con-rod

(0.0094 ∼ 0.0142 in.)

new con-rod.

New

Replace the

Used

0.20 ∼ 0.32 mm

Used

bolts with new

New

(0.0079 ∼ 0.0126 in.)

ones.

(2) Rotation Angle Method

If you don’t have a point micrometer, you may tighten the

nuts using the “Rotation Angle Method”.

• Be sure to clean the bolts and nuts thoroughly with a high

-flash point solvent, because the new bolts and nuts are

treated with an anti-rust solution.

WARNING

Clean the bolts and nuts in a well-ventilated area,

and take care that there is no spark or flame any-

where near the working area. This includes any ap-

pliance with a pilot light. Because of the danger

or highly flammable liquids, do not use gasoline or

low-flash point solvents to clean them.

CAUTION

Immediately dry the bolts and nuts with com-

pressed air after cleaning.

Clean and dry the bolts and nuts completely.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-21

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

• Install new bolts in reused connecting rods.

• Apply a small amount of molybdenum disulfide oil solution

to the following.

Threads [A] of Nuts and Bolts

Seating Surfaces [B] of Nuts and Con-rods

• First, tighten the nuts to the specified torque. See the

table below.

• Next, tighten the nuts 120° ±5° .

○Mark [A] the connecting rod big end caps and nuts so that

nuts can be turned 120° [B] properly.

Connect-

Torque + Angle

ing Rod

Bolt

Nut

N·m (kgf·m, ft·lb)

Assy

Use the bolts

Attached to

18 (1.8, 13.0) + 120°

New

attached to

new con-rod

new con-rod.

New

20 (2.0, 14.5) + 120°

Replace the

Used

24 (2.4, 17.4) + 120°

Used

bolts with

New

25 (2.6, 18.8) + 120°

new ones.

Crankshaft/Connecting Rod Cleaning

• After removing the connecting rods from the crankshaft,

clean them with a high-flash point solvent.

• Blow the crankshaft oil passages with compressed air to

remove any foreign particles or residue that may have

accumulated in the passages.

Connecting Rod Bend

• Remove the connecting rod big end bearing inserts, and

reinstall the connecting rod big end cap.

• Select an arbor [A] of the same diameter as the connect-

ing rod big end, and insert the arbor through the connect-

ing rod big end.

• Select an arbor of the same diameter as the piston pin

and at least 100 mm (3.94 in.) long, and insert the arbor

[B] through the connecting rod small end.

• On a surface plate, set the big-end arbor on V block [C].

• With the connecting rod held vertically, use a height

gauge to measure the difference in the height of the

arbor above the surface plate over a 100 mm (3.94 in.)

length to determine the amount of connecting rod bend.

If connecting rod bend exceeds the service limit, the con-

necting rod must be replaced.

Connecting Rod Bend

Service Limit: TIR 0.2/100 mm (0.008/3.94 in.)

9-22 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

Connecting Rod Twist

• With the big-end arbor [A] still on V block [C], hold the

connecting rod horizontally and measure the amount that

the arbor [B] varies from being paralleled with the surface

plate over a 100 mm (3.94 in.) length of the arbor to de-

termine the amount of connecting rod twist.

If connecting rod twist exceeds the service limit, the con-

necting rod must be replaced.

Connecting Rod Twist

Service Limit: TIR 0.2/100 mm (0.008/3.94 in.)

Connecting Rod Big End Side Clearance

• Measure connecting rod big end side clearance.

○Insert a thickness gauge [A] between the big end and ei-

ther crank web to determine clearance.

Connecting Rod Big End Side Clearance

Standard:

0.13 ∼ 0.38 mm (0.0051 ∼ 0.0150 in.)

Service Limit: 0.58 mm (0.023 in.)

If the clearance exceeds the service limit, replace the con-

necting rod with new one and then check clearance again.

If clearance is too large after connecting rod replacement,

the crankshaft also must be replaced.

Connecting Rod Big End Bearing Insert/Crankpin

Wear

• Measure the bearing insert/crankpin [B] clearance with

plastigage [A].

• Tighten the big end nuts to the specified torque (see Con-

necting Rod Installation).

NOTE

○Do not move the connecting rod and crankshaft during

clearance measurement.

CAUTION

After measurement, replace the connecting rod

bolts.

Connecting Rod Big End Bearing Insert/Crankpin Clearance

Standard:

0.017 ∼ 0.041 mm (0.0001 ∼ 0.0016 in.)

Service Limit: 0.08 mm (0.0031 in.)

If the clearance is within the standard, no bearing replace-

ment is required.

If the clearance is between 0.042 mm (0.00165 in.) and

the service limit (0.08 mm, 0.0031 in.), replace the bear-

ing inserts [A] with inserts painted blue [B]. Check in-

sert/crankpin clearance with the plastigage. The clear-

ance may exceed the standard slightly, but it must not be

less than the minimum in order to avoid bearing seizure.

If the clearance exceeds the service limit, measure the

diameter of the crankpins.

Crankpin Diameter

Standard:

37.984 ∼ 38.000 mm (1.4954 ∼ 1.4961 in.)

Service Limit:

37.97 mm (1.4949 in.)

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-23

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

If any crankpin has worn past the service limit, replace the

crankshaft with a new one.

If the measured crankpin diameters are not less than the

service limit, but do not coincide with the original diameter

markings on the crankshaft, make new marks on it.

Crankpin Diameter Marks

None

37.984 ∼ 37.992 mm (1.4954 ∼ 1.4957 in.)

○

37.993 ∼ 38.000 mm (1.4958 ∼ 1.4961 in.)

∆: Crankpin Diameter Marks, “○” or no mark.

• Measure the connecting rod big end inside diameter, and

mark each connecting rod big end in accordance with the

inside diameter.

• Tighten the connecting rod big end nuts to the specified

torque (see Connecting Rod Installation).

NOTE

○The mark already on the big end should almost coincide

with the measurement.

Connecting Rod Big End Inside Diameter Marks

None

41.000 ∼ 41.008 mm (1.6142 ∼ 1.6145 in.)

○

41.009 ∼ 41.016 mm (1.6145 ∼ 1.6148 in.)

Big End Cap [A]

Connecting Rod [B]

Weight Mark, Alphabet [C]

Diameter Mark (Around Weight Mark) [D]: “○” or no

mark

• Select the proper bearing insert [A] in accordance with the

combination of the connecting rod and crankshaft coding.

Size Color [B]

Con-rod Big End

Crankpin

Bearing Insert

Inside Diameter

Diameter

Size Color

Part Number

Marking

Marking

None

○

Brown

92139-0116

None

None

Black

92139-0115

○

○

○

None

Blue

92139-0114

• Install the new inserts in the connecting rod and check

insert/crankpin clearance with the plastigage.

9-24 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

Crankshaft Side Clearance

• Insert a thickness gauge [A] between the crankcase main

bearing and the crank web at the No. 2 journal [B] to

determine clearance.

If the clearance exceeds the service limit, replace the

crankcase halves as a set.

NOTE

○The upper and lower crankcase halves are machined

at the factory in the assembled state, so the crankcase

halves must be replaced as a set.

Crankshaft Side Clearance

Standard:

0.05 ∼ 0.20 mm (0.0020 ∼ 0.0079 in.)

Service Limit:

0.40 mm (0.0157 in.)

Crankshaft Runout

• Measure the crankshaft runout.

If the measurement exceeds the service limit, replace the

crankshaft.

Crankshaft Runout

Standard:

TIR 0.02 mm (0.0008 in.) or less

Service Limit: TIR 0.05 mm (0.0020 in.)

Crankshaft Main Bearing Insert/Journal Wear

• Using a plastigage (press gauge) [A], measure the bear-

ing insert/journal [B] clearance.

NOTE

○Tighten the crankcase bolts to the specified torque (see

Crankcase Assembly).

○Do not turn the crankshaft during clearance measure-

ment.

○Journal clearance less than 0.025 mm (0.00098 in.) can

not be measured by plastigage, however, using genuine

parts maintains the minimum standard clearance.

Crankshaft Main Bearing Insert/Journal Clearance

Standard:

0.012 ∼ 0.036 mm (0.0005 ∼ 0.0014 in.)

Service Limit: 0.07 mm (0.0028 in.)

If the clearance is within the standard, no bearing replace-

ment is required.

If the clearance is between 0.037 mm (0.0015 in.) and the

service limit (0.07 mm, 0.0028 in.), replace the bearing in-

serts [A] with inserts painted blue [B]. Check insert/journal

clearance with the plastigage. The clearance may exceed

the standard slightly, but it must not be less than the min-

imum in order to avoid bearing seizure.

If the clearance exceeds the service limit, measure the

diameter of the crankshaft main journal.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-25

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods

Crankshaft Main Journal Diameter

Standard:

37.984 ∼ 38.000 mm (1.4954 ∼ 1.4961 in.)

Service Limit:

37.96 mm (1.4945 in.)

If any journal has worn past the service limit, replace the

crankshaft with a new one.

If the measured journal diameters are not less than the

service limit, but do not coincide with the original diameter

markings on the crankshaft, make new marks on it.

Crankshaft Main Journal Diameter Marks

None 37.984 ∼ 37.992 mm (1.4954 ∼ 1.4957 in.)

1

37.993 ∼ 38.000 mm (1.4958 ∼ 1.4961 in.)

□: Crankshaft Main Journal Diameter Marks, “1” or no

mark.

• Measure the main bearing inside diameter, and mark the

upper crankcase half in accordance with the inside diam-

eter.

Crankcase Main Bearing Inside Diameter Marks: “○” or

no mark.

• Tighten the crankcase bolts to the specified torque (see

Crankcase Assembly).

NOTE

○The mark already on the upper crankcase half should

almost coincide with the measurement.

Crankcase Main Bearing Inside Diameter Marks

○

41.000 ∼ 41.008 mm (1.6142 ∼ 1.6145 in.)

None 41.009 ∼ 41.016 mm (1.6145 ∼ 1.6148 in.)

□□□:Crankcase Main Bearing Inside Diameter Marks, “○”

mark or no mark

No.1 Journal [A]

No.2 Journal [B]

No.3 Journal [C]

• Select the proper bearing insert [A] in accordance with the

combination of the crankcase and crankshaft coding.

Size Color [B]

Crankcase Main Bearing

Crankshaft Main Journal

Bearing Insert*

Inside Diameter Marking

Diameter Marking

Size Color

Part Number

○

1

Brown

92028-1905

None

1

Black

92028-1904

○

None

None

None

Blue

92028-1903

* The bearing inserts for Nos. 1, 2 and 3 journals have oil groove.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-27

Balancer

Balancer Removal

• Split the crankcase (see Crankcase Splitting).

• Pull the balancer shaft with the balancer gear out of the

crankcase.

Balancer Installation

• Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to the inside of

the balancer shaft bearing insert.

• Align [A] the timing mark on the balancer gear [B] with the

timing mark on the balancer drive gear [C] of the crank-

shaft.

• Assemble the crankcase (see Crankcase Assembly).

Balancer Shaft Bearing Insert/Journal Clearance

• Measure the bearing insert/journal clearance using a

plastigage.

○Split the crankcase and wipe each bearing insert and jour-

nal surface clean of oil.

○Cut strips of plastigage to bearing insert width, and place

a strip on each journal parallel to the balancer shaft so that

the plastigage will be compressed between the journal

and the bearing insert.

○Install the lower crankcase half, and tighten the case bolts

to the specified torque (see Crankcase Assembly).

NOTE

○Do not turn the balancer shaft during clearance mea-

surement.

○Remove the lower crankcase half and measure the plas-

tigage width [A] to determine the bearing insert/journal [B]

clearance.

Balancer Shaft Bearing Insert/Journal Clearance

Standard:

0.011 ∼ 0.033 mm (0.0004 ∼ 0.0013 in.)

Service Limit:

0.08 mm (0.0031 in.)

If the clearance is within the standard, no bearing insert

replacement is required.

If the clearance is between 0.050 mm and the service

limit (0.09 mm), replace the bearing inserts [A] with in-

serts painted blue [B] Check insert/journal clearance with

a plastigage. The clearance may exceed the standard

slightly, but it must not be less than the minimum in order

to avoid bearing seizure.

If the clearance exceeds the service limit, measure the

diameter of the balancer shaft journal.

Balancer Shaft Journal Diameter

Standard:

27.987 ∼ 28.000 mm (1.1019 ∼ 1.1024 in.)

Service Limit:

27.96 mm (1.1008 in.)

9-28 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Balancer

If either journal has worn past the service limit, replace

the balancer shaft with a new one.

If the measured journal diameters are not less than the

service limit, but do not coincide with the original diameter

markings on the balancer shaft, write new marks on it.

Balancer Shaft Diameter Marks

None

27.987 ∼ 27.993 mm (1.1019 ∼ 1.1021 in.)

○

27.994 ∼ 28.000 mm (1.1021 ∼ 1.1024 in.)

∆: Balancer Shaft Journal Diameter Marks, “○” mark or

no mark.

• Put the lower crankcase half on the upper crankcase half

without bearing inserts, and tighten the case bolts to the

specified torque and sequence (see Crankcase Assem-

bly).

• Measure the crankcase bearing bore diameter for the bal-

ancer shaft, and mark the upper crankcase half in accor-

dance with the bore diameter.

NOTE

○The mark already on the upper crankcase half should

almost coincide with the measurement.

Crankcase Bearing Bore Diameter Marks

○

31.000 ∼ 31.008 mm (1.2205 ∼ 1.2208 in.)

None

31.009 ∼ 31.016 mm (1.2208 ∼ 1.2211 in.)

□□: Crankcase Bearing Bore Diameter Marks, “○” mark

or no mark.

No.1 Journal [A]

No.2 Journal [B]

• Select the proper bearing insert in accordance with the

combination of the crankcase and the balancer shaft cod-

ing.

• Install the new inserts in the crankcase and check in-

sert/journal clearance with a plastigage.

Balancer Shaft Bearing Insert Selection

Crankcase Main

Bearing Insert*

Crankshaft Main

Bearing Bore Diameter

Journal Diameter Mark

Size Color

Part Number

Mark

○

○

Brown

92139-0119

○

None

Black

92139-0118

None

○

None

None

Blue

92139-0117

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-29

Transmission

Shift Pedal Removal

• Remove:

Shift Lever Bolt [A]

Shift Lever [B]

Shift Pedal Installation

• Align the mark [A] on the shift shaft with the slit [B] on the

shift lever.

• Tighten the shift lever bolt securely.

• Be sure the shift pedal position is as shown.

Shift Pedal Damper [A]

Bottom [B] of Left Footpeg Stay

Shift Lever [C]

Bolt [D] of Left Footpeg Stay

External Shift Mechanism Removal

• Remove:

Engine Oil (Drain, see Engine Oil Change in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter)

Shift Pedal (see Shift Pedal Removal)

Engine Sprocket (see Engine Sprocket Removal in the

Final Drive chapter)

Neutral Switch Lead Connector (Disconnect)

Shift Shaft Cover Bolts [A]

Shift Shaft Cover Screw [B]

Shift Shaft Cover [C]

• Remove the shift shaft assembly [A].

9-30 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Transmission

• Remove:

Clutch (see Clutch Removal in the Clutch chapter)

Gear Positioning Lever Bolt [A]

Gear Positioning Lever [B], Spacer, Washer and Spring

External Shift Mechanism Installation

• Install the gear positioning lever [A] as shown.

Spring [B]

Washer [C]

Spacer [D]

Bolt [E]

○Hook the spring at gear positioning lever, pushing up [F]

the hook portion, as shown.

• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the gear posi-

tioning lever bolt and tighten it.

Torque - Gear Positioning Lever Bolt: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m,

106 in·lb)

• Install the shift shaft assembly.

○Apply [A] molybdenum disulfide oil solution to the rub-

bing surface between the lever [B] and pawl [C] and move

them two or three times up and down to lubricate them.

○Be sure that the washer [A] is on the shaft.

○Be sure that the spring hook portions [B] are as shown.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-31

Transmission

• When the new needle bearing [A] is installed in the shift

shaft cover [B], press and insert the new needle bearing

until it is bottomed.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129

• When the new oil seal [C] is installed in the shift cover,

press and insert the new oil seal so that its surface is flush

with the end of the hole.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129

• Install the shift shaft cover.

○Be sure that the dowel pins [A] are in position.

○Install the new gasket [B].

• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the shift shaft

cover screw [A] and bolts [B, C] and tighten them.

○Do not apply a non-permanent locking agent to the shift

shaft cover bolts [D, E].

○Tighten the cover screw lastly.

Torque - Shift Shaft Cover Bolts:

9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87

in·lb)

Shift Shaft Cover Screw: 4.9 N·m (0.50 kgf·m, 43

in·lb)

External Shift Mechanism Inspection

• Examine the shift shaft [A] for any damage.

If the shaft is bent, straighten or replace it.

If the serration [B] are damaged, replace the shaft.

If the springs [C] are damaged in any way, replace them.

If the shift mechanism arm [D] is damaged in any way,

replace the arm.

• Check the return spring pin [A] is not loose.

If it is loose, unscrew it, apply a non-permanent locking

agent to the threads, and tighten it.

Torque - Shift Shaft Return Spring Pin: 29 N·m (2.9 kgf·m,

21 ft·lb)

9-32 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Transmission

• Check the gear positioning lever [A] and its spring for

breaks or distortion.

If the lever or spring are damaged in any way, replace

them.

• Visually inspect the shift drum cam [B].

If they are badly worn or if they show any damage, replace

it.

Transmission Assy Removal

• Remove:

Shift Shaft Assembly (see External Shift Mechanism Re-

moval)

Neutral Switch Holder Bolt [A]

Neutral Switch Holder [B] and Pin

Shift Drum Holder [C] and Pin

• Remove:

Collar [A]

O-ring [B]

• Remove:

Clutch (see Clutch Removal in the Clutch chapter)

Transmission Case Bolts [A]

If the transmission assy is to be disassembed, remove the

following.

Shift Rod Plate Bolt [B]

Shift Rod Plate [C]

Gear Positioning Lever Bolt [D]

Gear Positioning Lever [E] with Spring, Washer and

Spacer

• Pull the transmission assy [A] out of the crankcase.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-33

Transmission

Transmission Assy Disassembly

• Remove the transmission assy (see Transmission Assy

Removal).

• Remove the following from the transmission case [A].

Shift Rods [B]

Shift Forks [C]

Drive Shaft [D]

Output Shaft [E]

• Remove:

Shift Drum Cam Bolt [A]

Shift Drum [B] and Pin

Shift Drum [C]

Transmission Assy Assembly

• When the new ball bearings [A] are installed in the trans-

mission case [B], press and insert them until they are bot-

tomed.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set 57001-1129

9-34 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Transmission

• Install the following on the transmission case [A].

Shift Drum [B]

Pin [C]

Shift Drum Cam [D]

○Align the pin with the hole on the shift drum cam.

• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the shift drum

cam bolt [E] and tighten it.

Torque - Shift Drum Cam Bolt: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 106 in·lb)

• Install the following as a set.

Drive Shaft [F]

Output Shaft [G]

• Install the forks as shown.

○Position the one [H] with shortest ears on the drive shaft

and place the pin in the center groove in the shift drum.

○The two forks [J] on the output shaft are identical.

• Install the shift rods, noting the groove position.

○The rod [K] length of the output shaft side is shorter than

the rod [L] length of the drive shaft side.

• Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to the transmis-

sion gears shown with X marks [M].

• Be sure that the spacer [N] is on the output shaft.

Transmission Assy Installation

• Assemble the transmission assy (see Transmission Assy

Assembly).

• Be sure that the dowel pins [A] are in position.

• Apply grease to the O-ring [B] on the oil pipe.

• Install the transmission assy on the crankcase.

• Tighten the transmission case bolts.

Torque - Transmission Case Bolts: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15

ft·lb)

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-35

Transmission

• Install the gear positioning lever (see External Shift Mech-

anism Installation).

• Install the shift rod plate.

Torque - Shift Rod Plate Bolt: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)

• Set the gear positioning lever to the neutral position [A].

• Check that the drive and output shaft turn freely.

• Install:

Pin [A]

Shift Drum Holder [B]

Pin [C]

Neutral Switch Holder [D]

Neutral Switch Holder Screw [E]

○Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the neutral switch

holder screw and tighten it.

Torque - Neutral Switch Holder Screw: 4.9 N·m (0.50 kgf·m,

43 in·lb)

• Apply grease to the O-ring [A] and install its position [B]

on the output shaft.

• Apply grease to the lip of the oil seal [C].

• Install the collar [D].

Transmission Shaft Removal

• Remove the transmission assy (see Transmission Assy

Removal).

• Remove:

Shift Rods [A]

Shift Forks [B]

Drive Shaft [C] and Output Shaft [D]

Transmission Shaft Installation

• Be sure that the spacer [A] is on the output shaft [B].

9-36 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Transmission

• Install the transmission assy on the crankcase (see Trans-

mission Assy Installation).

• Press in the oil seal [A] onto collar [B] so that the surface

of the oil seal is flush with the surface [C] of the crankcase.

○Apply oil to the outer circumference [D] of the oil seal so

that it will go into place smoothly.

○Apply grease to the lip [E] of the oil seal.

Transmission Shaft Disassembly

• Remove the transmission shafts (see Transmission Shaft

Removal).

• Remove the circlips, disassemble the transmission

shafts.

Special Tool - Outside Circlip Pliers: 57001-144

• The 5th gear [A] on the output shaft has three steel balls

assembled into it for the positive neutral finder mecha-

nism. Remove the 5th gear.

○Set the output shaft in a vertical position holding the 3rd

gear [B].

○Spin the 5th gear quickly [C] and pull it off upward.

Transmission Shaft Assembly

• Apply engine oil to the bushings, needle bearings and

shafts.

• Install the gear bushings [A] on the shaft with their holes

[B] aligned.

• Replace any circlips removed with new ones.

• Install the circlips [A] so that the opening [B] is aligned

with a spline groove [C].

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-37

Transmission

• The drive shaft gears can be recognized by size: the gear

with the smallest diameter is 1st gear, and the largest one

is 6th gear. Be sure that all parts are put back in the cor-

rect sequence and all circlips and washers are properly in

place.

• Install the 3rd/4th gear onto the drive shaft with their oil

holes aligned.

• Install the 6th gear bushing onto the drive shaft with their

oil holes aligned.

• The output shaft gears can be recognized by size: the

gear with the largest diameter is 1st gear, and the small-

est one is 6th gear. Be sure that all parts are put back

in the correct sequence and all circlips and washers are

properly in place.

• Install the 5th and 6th gears onto the output shaft with

their oil holes aligned.

• Install the 3rd/4th gear bushings onto the output shaft with

their oil holes aligned.

• Fit the steel balls into the 5th gear holes in the output

shaft, aligning three oil holes.

5th Gear [A]

Output Shaft [B]

Steel Balls [C]

Oil Holes [D]

CAUTION

Do not apply grease to the balls to hold them in

place. This will cause the positive neutral finder

mechanism to malfunction.

○After assembling the 5th gear with steel balls in place on

the output shaft, check the ball-locking effect that the 5th

gear doesn’t come out of the output shaft when moving it

up and down by hand.

• Check that each gear spins or slides freely on the trans-

mission shafts without binding after assembly.

9-38 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Transmission

1. 1st Gear

16. Collar

2. 2nd Gear

17. Washer

3. 3rd Gear

18. Nut

4. 4th Gear

19. O-ring

5. 5th Gear

20. Bearing

6. 6th (Top) Gear

21. Spacer,

39 mm (1.54 in.)

7. Ball Bearing

22. Positioning Ring

8. Bushing

23. Washer,

40 mm (1.57 in.)

9. Toothed Washer,

34 mm (1.34 in.)

24. Bushing

10. Circlip

25. Toothed Washer,

38 mm (1.50 in.)

11. Bushing

26. Shim,

28 mm (1.10 in.)

12. Thrust Washer,

30 mm (1.18 in.)

27. Steel Ball

13. Needle Bearing

28. Circlip,

32.2 mm (1.268 in.)

14. Circlip

29. Thrust Washer,

25 mm (0.98 in.)

15. Oil Seal

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-39

Transmission

Shift Drum and Fork Removal

• Remove the transmission assy (see Transmission Assy

Removal).

• Remove the shift forks [A] and shift drum [B] (see Trans-

mission Assy Disassembly).

Shift Drum and Fork Installation

• Refer to the Transmission Assy Assembly and Installa-

tion.

Shift Drum Disassembly

• Refer to the Transmission Assy Removal and Disassem-

bly.

Shift Drum Assembly

• Refer to the Transmission Assy Assembly and Installa-

tion.

Shift Fork Bending

• Visually inspect the shift forks, and replace any fork that is

bent. A bent fork could cause difficulty in shifting, or allow

the transmission to jump out of gear when under power.

90° [A]

Shift Fork/Gear Groove Wear

• Measure the thickness of the shift fork ears [A], and mea-

sure the width [B] of the gear grooves.

If the thickness of a shift fork ear is less than the service

limit, the shift fork must be replaced.

Shift Fork Ear Thickness

Standard:

5.9 ∼ 6.0 mm (0.232 ∼ 0.236 in.)

Service Limit:

5.8 mm (0.228 in.)

If the gear groove is worn over the service limit, the gear

must be replaced.

Gear Groove Width

Standard:

6.05 ∼ 6.15 mm (0.238 ∼ 0.242 in.)

Service Limit:

6.25 mm (0.246 in.)

9-40 CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION

Transmission

Shift Fork Guide Pin/Drum Groove Wear

• Measure the diameter of each shift fork guide pin [A], and

measure the width [B] of each shift drum groove.

If the guide pin on any shift fork is less than the service

limit, the fork must be replaced.

Shift Fork Guide Pin Diameter

Standard:

6.9 ∼ 7.0 mm (0.272 ∼ 0.276 in.)

Service Limit: 6.8 mm (0.268 in.)

If any shift drum groove is worn over the service limit, the

drum must be replaced.

Shift Drum Groove Width

Standard:

7.05 ∼ 7.20 mm (0.278 ∼ 0.283 in.)

Service Limit:

7.3 mm (0.287 in.)

Gear Dog and Gear Dog Hole Damage

• Visually inspect the gear dogs [A] and gear dog holes [B].

Replace any damaged gears or gears with excessively

worn dogs or dog holes.

CRANKSHAFT/TRANSMISSION 9-41

Ball Bearing, Needle Bearing, and Oil Seal

Ball and Needle Bearing Replacement

CAUTION

Do not remove the ball or needle bearings unless it

is necessary. Removal may damage them.

• Using a press or puller, remove the ball bearing and/or

needle bearings.

NOTE

○In the absence of the above mentioned tools, satisfac-

tory results may be obtained by heating the case to ap-

proximately 93°C (200°F) max., and tapping the bearing

in or out.

CAUTION

Do not heat the case with a torch. This will warp the

case. Soak the case in oil and heat the oil.

• Using a press and the bearing driver set [A], install the

new ball bearing until it stops at the bottom of its housing.

○The new needle bearings must be pressed into the

crankcase so that the end is flush with the end of the

hole.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129

Ball and Needle Bearing Wear

CAUTION

Do not remove the bearings for inspection. Re-

moval may damage them.

• Check the ball bearings.

○Since the ball bearings are made to extremely close toler-

ances, the wear must be judged by feel rather than mea-

surement. Clean each bearing in a high-flash point sol-

vent, dry it (do not spin the bearing while it is dry), and oil

it with engine oil.

○Spin [A] the bearing by hand to check its condition.

If the bearing is noisy, does not spin smoothly, or has any

rough spots, replace it.

• Check the needle bearings.

○The rollers in a needle bearing normally wear very little,

and wear is difficult to measure. Instead of measuring,

inspect the bearing for abrasion, color change, or other

damage.

If there is any doubt as to the condition of a needle bear-

ing, replace it.

Oil Seal Inspection

• Inspect the oil seals.

Replace it if the lips are misshapen, discolored (indicating

that the rubber has deteriorated), hardened or otherwise

damaged.

10-2 WHEELS/TIRES

Exploded View

10-6 WHEELS/TIRES

Wheels (Rims)

Front Wheel Removal

• Remove:

Brake Caliper Mounting Bolts [A]

Front Brake Calipers [B]

• Loosen:

Axle Clamp Bolt [A]

• Remove the front axle [B].

• Remove the lower fairings (see Lower Fairing Removal in

the Frame chapter).

• Raise the front wheel off the ground with jack.

Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238

Jack Attachment: 57001-1608

• Pull out the axle to the right and drop the front wheel out

of the forks.

CAUTION

Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the discs

facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.

Place wooden blocks under the wheel so that the

disc does not touch the ground.

Front Wheel Installation

NOTE

○The direction of the wheel rotation [A] is shown by an

arrow [B] on the wheel spoke.

• Check the wheel rotation mark on the front wheel and

install it.

WHEELS/TIRES 10-7

Wheels (Rims)

• Apply high-temperature grease to the grease seal lips.

• Fit the collars [A] on the both sides of the hub.

• Insert the front axle, and tighten the axle.

Torque - Front Axle: 108 N·m (11.0 kgf·m, 80 ft·lb)

• Before tightening the axle clamp bolt on the right front fork

leg, pump the front fork up and down 4 or 5 times to allow

the right front fork leg to seat on the front axle.

NOTE

○Put a block in front of the front wheel to stop moving.

• Tighten the axle clamp bolt [A].

Torque - Front Axle Clamp Bolt: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)

• Install the lower fairing (see Lower Fairing Installation in

the Frame chapter).

• Install the front brake calipers (see Caliper Installation in

the Brakes chapter).

• Check the front brake effectiveness (see Brake Operation

Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

WARNING

Do not attempt to drive the motorcycle until a full

brake lever is obtained by pumping the brake lever

until the pads are against the disc. The brake will

not function on the first application of the lever if

this is not done.

10-8 WHEELS/TIRES

Wheels (Rims)

Rear Wheel Removal

• Raise the rear wheel off the ground with stand [A].

• Remove:

Brake Caliper Mounting Bolts [A]

Rear Brake Caliper [B]

• Remove the rear wheel rotation sensor from the caliper

bracket (see Rear Wheel Rotation Sensor Removal in the

Brakes chapter) (EX650B Models).

• Remove:

Cotter Pin [A]

Axle Nut [B]

Washer [C]

Axle [D] with Washer

• Remove the drive chain [A] from the rear sprocket toward

the left.

• Move the rear wheel back and remove it.

CAUTION

Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc

facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.

Place wooden blocks under the wheel so that the

disc does not touch the ground.

Rear Wheel Installation

• Apply high-temperature grease to the grease seal lips.

• Fit the collars [A] on the both sides of the hub.

WHEELS/TIRES 10-9

Wheels (Rims)

• Engage the drive chain with the rear sprocket.

• Install the caliper bracket [A] onto the swingarm stop [B].

• Insert the axle from the right side of the wheel, and tighten

the axle nut.

Torque - Rear Axle Nut: 108 N·m (11.0 kgf·m, 80 ft·lb)

• Insert a new cotter pin [A].

NOTE

○When inserting the cotter pin, if the slots in the nut do

not align with the cotter pin hole in the axle, tighten the

nut clockwise [B] up to next alignment.

○It should be within 30°.

○Loosen once and tighten again when the slot goes past

the nearest hole.

• Bend the cotter pin [A] over the nut [B].

WARNING

If the rear axle nut is not securely tightened or the

cotter pin is not installed, an unsafe riding condi-

tion may result.

• Adjust the drive chain slack after installation (see Drive

Chain Slack Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chap-

ter).

• Install the rear brake caliper (see Caliper Installation in

the Brakes chapter).

• Install the rear wheel rotation sensor (see Rear Wheel Ro-

tation Sensor Installation in the Brakes chapter) (EX650B

Models).

• Check the rear brake effectiveness (see Brake Operation

Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

WARNING

Do not attempt to drive the motorcycle until a full

brake pedal is obtained by pumping the brake pedal

until the pads are against the disc. The brake will

not function on the first application of the pedal if

this is not done.

10-10 WHEELS/TIRES

Wheels (Rims)

Wheel Inspection

• Raise the front/rear wheel off the ground with jack.

Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238

Jack Attachment: 57001-1608

• Spin the wheel lightly, and check for roughness or binding.

If roughness or binding is found, replace the hub bearings.

• Inspect the wheel for small cracks, dents, bending, or

warp.

If there is any damage to the wheel, replace the wheel.

• Remove the wheel, and support it without the tire by the

axle.

• Measure the rim runout, axial [A] and radial [B], with a dial

gauge.

If rim runout exceeds the service limit, check the hub bear-

ings.

If the problem is not due to the bearings, replace the

wheel.

Rim Runout

Standard:

Axial

TIR 0.5 mm (0.02 in.) or less

Radial

TIR 0.8 mm (0.03 in.) or less

Service Limit:

Axial

TIR 1.0 mm (0.04 in.)

Radial

TIR 1.0 mm (0.04 in.)

WARNING

Never attempt to repair a damaged wheel. If there

is any damage besides wheel bearings, the wheel

must be replaced to insure safe operational condi-

tion.

Axle Inspection

• Remove the front and rear axles (see Front/Rear Wheel

Removal).

• Visually inspect the front and rear axle for damages.

If the axle is damaged or bent, replace it.

• Place the axle in V blocks that are 100 mm (3.94 in.) [A]

apart, and set a dial gauge [B] on the axle at a point

halfway between the blocks. Turn [C] the axle to mea-

sure the runout. The difference between the highest and

lowest dial readings is the amount of runout.

If axle runout exceeds the service limit, replace the axle.

Axle Runout/100 mm (3.94 in.)

Standard:

TIR 0.03 mm (0.0012 in.) or less

Service Limit: TIR 0.2 mm (0.008 in.)

WHEELS/TIRES 10-11

Wheels (Rims)

Balance Inspection

• Remove the front and rear wheels (see Front/Rear Wheel

Removal).

• Support the wheel so that it can be spun freely.

• Spin the wheel lightly, and mark [A] the wheel at the top

when the wheel stops.

○Repeat this procedure several times. If the wheel stops

of its own accord in various positions, it is well balanced.

If the wheel always stops in one position, adjust the wheel

balance (see Balance Adjustment).

Balance Adjustment

• If the wheel always stops in one position, provisionally

attach a balance weight [A] on the rim at the marking using

adhesive tape.

• Rotate the wheel 1/4 turn [B], and see whether or not the

wheel stops in this position. If it does, the correct balance

weight is being used.

If the wheel rotates and the weight goes up, replace the

weight with the next heavier size. If the wheel rotates and

the weight goes down, replace the weight with the next

lighter size. Repeat these steps until the wheel remains

at rest after being rotated 1/4 turn.

• Rotate the wheel another 1/4 turn and then another 1/4

turn to see if the wheel is correctly balanced.

• Repeat the entire procedure as many times as necessary

to achieve correct wheel balance.

• Permanently install the balance weight.

Balance Weight Removal

• Insert a regular tip screwdrivers [A] [B] between the rib [C]

and the weight [D] as shown.

• Pry the balance weight with two screwdrivers and remove

the balance weight.

• Discard the used balance weight.

CAUTION

Do not tap the screwdrivers. The rim could be dam-

aged.

Balance Weight Installation

• Check if the weight portion has any play on the blade [A]

and clip [B].

If it does, discard it.

WARNING

If the balance weight has any play on the rib of the

rim, the blade and/or clip have been stretched. Re-

place the loose balance weight. Do not reuse used

balance weight. Unbalanced wheels can create an

unsafe riding condition.

10-12 WHEELS/TIRES

Wheels (Rims)

Balance Weight

Part Number

Weight

41075-0007

10 g (0.35 oz.)

41075-0008

20 g (0.71 oz.)

41075-0009

30 g (1.06 oz.)

NOTE

○Balance weights are available from Kawasaki dealers in

10, 20, and 30 grams (0.35, 0.71, and 1.06 oz.) sizes.

An imbalance of less than 10 grams (0.35 oz.) will not

usually affect running stability.

○Do not use four or more balance weight (more than 90

gram, 3.17 oz.). If the wheel requires an excess bal-

ance weight, disassemble the wheel to find the cause.

• Slip the balance weight [A] onto the rib [B] by pushing or

lightly hammering [C] the clip [D].

Left Side [E]

Right Side [F]

• Be sure to install the balance weight.

○Check that the blade [A] and clip [B] are fully seated on

the rim [C] and that the clip is hooked over the rib [D].

Left Side [E]

Right Side [F]

WHEELS/TIRES 10-13

Tires

Air Pressure Inspection/Adjustment

• Refer to the Air Pressure Inspection in the Periodic Main-

tenance chapter.

Tire Inspection

• Refer to the Wheel/Tire Damage Inspection in the Peri-

odic Maintenance chapter.

Tire Removal

• Remove:

Wheel (see Front/Rear Wheel Removal)

Valve Core (Let out the air)

• To maintain wheel balance, mark the valve stem position

on the tire with chalk so that the tire can be reinstalled in

the same position.

Chalk Mark or Yellow Mark [A]

Air Valve [B]

Align [C]

• Lubricate the tire beads and rim flanges on both sides with

a soap and water solution or rubber lubricant. This helps

the tire beads slip off the rim flanges.

CAUTION

Never lubricate with engine oil or petroleum distil-

lates because they will deteriorate the tire.

• Remove the tire from the rim using a suitable commer-

cially available tire changer.

NOTE

○The tires cannot be removed with hand tools because

they fit the rims too tightly.

Tire Installation

WARNING

Use the same manufacturer’s tires on both front and

rear wheels.

• Inspect the rim and tire, and replace them if necessary.

• Clean the sealing surfaces of the rim and tire, and smooth

the sealing surfaces of the rim with a fine emery cloth if

necessary.

• Remove the air valve and discard it.

CAUTION

Replace the air valve whenever the tire is replaced.

Do not reuse the air valve.

10-14 WHEELS/TIRES

Tires

• Install a new valve in the rim.

○Remove the valve cap, lubricate the stem seal [A] with a

soap and water solution or rubber lubricant, and pull [B]

the valve stem through the rim from the inside out until it

snaps into place.

CAUTION

Do not use engine oil or petroleum distillates to lu-

bricate the stem because they will deteriorate the

rubber.

○The air valve is shown in the figure.

Valve Cap [A]

Valve Core [B]

Stem Seal [C]

Valve Stem [D]

Valve Seat [E]

Valve Opened [F]

• Check the tire rotation mark on the front and rear tires and

install them on the rim accordingly.

Tire Rotation Mark [A]

Rotating Direction [B]

• Position the tire on the rim so that the valve [A] align with

the tire balance mark [B] (the chalk mark made during

removal, or the yellow paint mark on a new tire).

• Install the tire bead over the rim flange using a suitable

commercially available tire changer.

• Lubricate the tire beads and rim flanges with a soap and

water solution or rubber lubricant to help seat the tire

beads in the sealing surfaces of the rim while inflating the

tire.

• Center the rim in the tire beads, and inflate the tire with

compressed air until the tire beads seat in the sealing

surfaces.

WARNING

Be sure to install the valve core whenever inflating

the tire, and do not inflate the tire to more than 400

kPa (4.0 kgf/cm², 57 psi). Overinflation can explode

the tire with possibility of injury and loss of life.

WHEELS/TIRES 10-15

Tires

• Check to see that the rim lines [A] on both sides of the tire

sidewalls are parallel with the rim flanges.

If the rim flanges and tire sidewall rim lines are not parallel,

remove the valve core.

• Lubricate the rim flanges and tire beads.

• Install the valve core and inflate the tire again.

• After the tire beads seat in the rim flanges, check for air

leakage.

○Inflate the tire slightly above standard inflation.

○Use a soap and water solution or submerge the tire, and

check for bubbles that would indicate leakage.

• Adjust the air pressure to the specified pressure (see Air

Pressure Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chap-

ter).

• Install the air valve cap.

• Adjust the wheel balance (see Balance Adjustment).

Tire Repair

Currently two types of repair for tubeless tires have come

into wide use. One type is called a temporary (external) re-

pair which can be carried out without removing the tire from

the rim, and the other type is called permanent (internal)

repair which requires tire removal. It is generally under-

stood that higher running durability is obtained by perma-

nent (internal) repairs than by temporary (external) ones.

Also, permanent (internal) repairs have the advantage of

permitting a thorough examination for secondary damage

not visible from external inspection of the tire. For these

reasons, Kawasaki does not recommend temporary (exter-

nal) repair. Only appropriate permanent (internal) repairs

are recommended. Repair methods may vary slightly from

make to make. Follow the repair methods indicated by the

manufacturer of the repair tools and materials so that safe

results can be obtained.

10-16 WHEELS/TIRES

Hub Bearing

Hub Bearing Removal

• Remove the wheel (see Front/Rear Wheel Removal), and

take out the following.

Collars

Coupling (Out of rear hub)

Grease Seals

• Use the bearing remover to remove the hub bearings [A].

CAUTION

Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc

facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.

Place wooden blocks under the wheel so that the

disc does not touch the ground.

Special Tools - Bearing Remover Head,

20 ×

22 [B]:

57001-1293

Bearing Remover Shaft,

13 [C]:

57001

-1377

Hub Bearing Installation

• Before installing the hub bearings, blow any dirt or foreign

particles out of the hub with compressed air to prevent

contamination of the bearings.

• Replace the bearings with new ones.

NOTE

○Install the bearings so that the marked side faces out.

• Install the bearings by using the bearing driver set which

does not contact the bearing inner race.

• Press in each bearing [A] right until they are bottomed.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set [B]: 57001-1129

• Replace the grease seals with new ones.

• Press in the grease seals [A] so that the seal surface is

flush [B] with the end of the hole.

○Apply high-temperature grease to the grease seal lips.

Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set [C]: 57001-1129

Hub Bearing Inspection

Since the hub bearings are made to extremely close tol-

erances, the clearance can not normally be measured.

NOTE

○Do not remove any bearings for inspection. If any bear-

ings are removed, they will need to be replaced with

new ones.

• Turn each bearing in the hub back and forth [A] while

checking for plays, roughness or binding.

If bearing play, roughness or binding is found, replace the

bearing.

• Examine the bearing seal [B] for tears or leakage.

If the seal is torn or is leaking, replace the bearing.

11-2 FINAL DRIVE

Exploded View

FINAL DRIVE 11-3

Exploded View

Torque

No.

Fastener

Remarks

N·m

kgf·m

ft·lb

1

Engine Sprocket Nut

125

12.7

92

MO

2

Rear Axle Nut

108

11.0

80

3

Rear Sprocket Nuts

59

6.0

44

4

Speed Sensor Bolt

7.8

0.80

69 in·lb

L

5

Speed Sensor Bracket Bolts

9.8

1.0

87 in·lb

G: Apply grease.

HG: Apply high-temperature grease.

HO: Apply heavy oil.

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.

MO: Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution.

(mixture of the engine oil and molybdenum disulfide grease in a weight ratio 10 : 1)

R: Replacement Parts

FINAL DRIVE 11-5

Special Tools

Inside Circlip Pliers:

Bearing Driver Set:

57001-143

57001-1129

11-6 FINAL DRIVE

Drive Chain

Drive Chain Slack Inspection

• Refer to the Drive Chain Slack Inspection in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter.

Drive Chain Slack Adjustment

• Refer to the Drive Chain Slack Adjustment in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter.

Wheel Alignment Inspection/Adjustment

• Refer to the Wheel Alignment Inspection in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter.

Drive Chain Wear Inspection

• Refer to the Drive Chain Wear Inspection in the Periodic

Maintenance chapter.

Drive Chain Lubrication

• Refer to the Drive Chain Lubrication Condition Inspection

in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.

Drive Chain Removal

NOTE

○Since the drive chain is installed through the swingarm,

the chain cannot be removed other than by cutting it.

Prepare the new link pin, link plate, grease seals, and

tools for rejoining the chain.

• Using a suitable tool, cut the drive chain by removing the

link pins.

Recommended Tool: EK Joint Tool #50

CAUTION

Read the Tool Manual before removing.

Body [A]

Handlebar [B]

Cutting and Riveting Pin [C]

For Cutting [D]

For Riveting [E]

Plate Holder (a) [F]

Plate Holder (b) [G]

Gauge [H]

• Grind [A] the pin head to make it flat.

• Set the cutting and riveting pin [B] as shown.

FINAL DRIVE 11-7

Drive Chain

• Screw the pin holder until it touches chain pin.

• Be sure that the cutting pin hits center of chain pin.

• Screw the handlebar [A] into body.

• Turn the pin holder with wrench [B] clockwise to extract

chain pin.

Drive Chain Installation

• Engage the new drive chain to the old drive chain and pull

the end of the old drive chain until they are changing the

position.

• Remove the old drive chain from the new drive chain.

• Apply grease to the link pins [A] and grease seals [B] [C].

• Engage the drive chain on the rear sprocket through the

swingarm.

• Insert the link pins in the drive chain ends.

• Install the grease seals [C].

• Install the link plate so that the mark [D] faces out.

• Push the link plate by hand or plier to fix it.

• In case of grease seal chain, be sure to set the grease

seals correctly.

• Set the plate holder (a) [A] and plate holder (b) [B] on the

body.

11-8 FINAL DRIVE

Drive Chain

• Fit the plate holder (a) to link plate.

• Turn the pin holder by hand until plate holder (b) touches

the other link plate.

• Turn the pin holder by wrench clockwise until two pins of

link come into groove of plate holder (a).

• Take off the plate holder (a).

• Set the plate holder (b) [A] and cutting and riveting pin [B]

as shown.

• Turn the pin holder until riveting pin touches link pin.

• Turn the wrench clockwise until tip of riveting pin hits of

link pin.

• Rivet it.

• Same work for the other link pin.