Kawasaki ZZR 1400, ZZR1400 ABS, Ninja ZX-14 Motorcycle. Service Manual (2006-2007 year)

16-88 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Immobilizer System (Equipped Models)

When Registered User Key is Inserted.

User Key Collation Error

• The user key 1 is successfully registered in the ECU.

○The warning indicator light (LED) [A] blinks 2 times and

stops for 1 second and then repeats this cycle to indicate

successful registering of user key 1.

• Turn OFF and remove user key 1.

○The warning indicator light (LED) [A] blinks to display the

registration mode.

NOTE

○Turn off the ignition switch and wait for the period more

than 15 seconds. The registration mode automatically

ends and warning indicator light (LED) goes off.

○This procedure has , registered the master key and one

user key.

○Continue the procedure to program the second and

later keys.

• Insert the user key 2 to the ignition switch and turn it ON.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-89

Immobilizer System (Equipped Models)

○If there is any problem in the registration, the warning

indicator light (LED) [A] blinks to display the collation error.

Immobilizer Amplifier Failure

When Registered User Key is Inserted.

User Key Collation Error

• The user key 2 is successfully registered in the ECU.

○The warning indicator light (LED) [A] blinks 3 times and

stops for 1 second and then repeat this cycle to indicate

successful programming of user key 2.

• Turn OFF the ignition switch and wait for period more than

15 seconds.

• The registration mode automatically ends.

• Warning indicator light (LED) [A] goes off.

16-90 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Immobilizer System (Equipped Models)

• Remove the key registration unit and connect the immo-

bilizer/Kawasaki diagnostic system connector.

NOTE

○Turn the ignition switch ON with the registered user key.

○Check that the engine can be started using all regis-

tered user keys.

• Install the new ignition switch and antenna.

Case 3: When the electric control unit (ECU) is faulty

and has to be replaced.

• Prepare a new ECU [A], current master key [B] and cur-

rent user keys [C].

NOTE

○The key registration unit is not required.

• Replace:

ECU [A] (see Immobilizer System Parts Replacement)

• Insert the current master key into the ignition switch and

turn it ON.

○If there is any problem in the registration, the warning

indicator light (LED) [A] blinks to display the collation error.

Immobilizer Amplifier Failure

Master Key Collation Error

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-91

Immobilizer System (Equipped Models)

• The master key is registered in the ECU.

○The warning indicator light (LED) [A] blinks 1 time and

stops for 1 second and the repeats this cycle to indicate

successful registration of the master key.

• Turn OFF the master key and remove it.

○The warning indicator light (LED) [A] blinks to display the

registration mode.

NOTE

○Insert next key and turn ON within 15 seconds after pre-

vious key is turned off and removed otherwise registra-

tion mode will be ended and the warning indicator light

(LED) goes off.

○To return to the registration mode start the master key

verification procedure. This applies to all user key reg-

istration.

• Insert the user key 1 to the ignition switch and turn it ON.

NOTE

○Keep the other user keys away from the immobilizer

antenna.

○If there is any problem in the registration, the warning

indicator light (LED) [A] blinks to display the collation error.

Immobilizer Amplifier Failure

When Registered User Key is Inserted.

16-92 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Immobilizer System (Equipped Models)

User Key Collation Error

• The user key 1 is registered in the ECU.

○The warning indicator light (LED) [A] blinks 2 times and

stops for 1 second and then repeats this cycle to indicate

successful registration of user key.

• Turn OFF and remove the user key 1.

○The warning indicator light (LED) [A] blinks to display the

registration mode codes.

NOTE

○Insert next key and turn ON within 15 seconds after pre-

vious key is turned off and removed otherwise registra-

tion mode will be ended and the warning indicator light

goes off.

○To return to the registration mode start the master key

verification procedure. This applies to all user key reg-

istration.

• Insert the user key 2 to the ignition switch and turn it ON.

○If there is any problem in the registration, the warning

indicator light (LED) [A] blinks to display the collation error

code.

Immobilizer Amplifier Failure

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-93

Immobilizer System (Equipped Models)

When Registered User Key is Inserted.

User Key Collation Error

• The user key 2 is registered in the ECU.

○The warning indicator light (LED) [A] blinks 3 times and

stops for 1 second and then repeats this cycle to indicate

successful registration of user key 2.

• Turn OFF the ignition switch and wait for period more than

15 seconds.

• The registration mode automatically ends.

• Warning indicator light (LED) [A] goes off.

NOTE

○Turn the ignition switch ON with the registered user key.

○Check that the engine can be started using all regis-

tered user keys.

Case 4: When master key is faulty or lost.

The master key replacement is considered very rare case.

However if it is required, the following is necessary.

NOTE

○The ECU must be replaced with a new one because the

master key code that is registered in the current ECU

can not be rewritten.

16-96 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Immobilizer System (Equipped Models)

Immobilizer System Parts Replacement

Immobilizer Antenna

• Remove the left inner cover (see Inner Cover Removal in

the Frame chapter).

• Disconnect the lead connectors [A].

• Remove:

Steering Stem Head (see Stem, Stem Bearing Removal

in the Steering chapter)

• Using a small chisel or punch [A], turn out the Torx bolts.

• Cut the band [A].

• Remove the screw [B].

• Remove the antenna [C] with the cover [D].

○Pull the lower parts [E] of the cover outside to clear the

projection [F] of the ignition switch.

• Tighten a new Torx bolt [A] until the bolt head [B] is broken.

[C] Broken Head of Other Side

• Run the leads correctly (see Cable, Wire, and Hose Rout-

ing section in the Appendix chapter).

Immobilizer Amplifier Replacement

• Remove the windshield (see Windshield Removal in the

Frame chapter).

• Disconnect the connector [A].

• Remove the amplifier [B] from the bracket [C].

16-98 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Immobilizer System (Equipped Models)

• Install:

Tool Kit Case [A]

Plate [B]

• Tighten the new Kawasaki genuine screws [C] of which

threads are coated with locking agent.

• Insert the stopper [D] of the fuse box into the groove [E]

of the tool kit case.

Immobilizer Relational Parts Replacement Chart

Failed or Lost Part

Master

User

Ignition

An-

Ampli-

Key

ECU

Switch

tenna

fier

(Red)

(Black)

Master

Key

•

(Red)

User

Key

○

•

(Black)

Ignition

Switch

•

An-

tenna

•

Ampli-

fier

•

ECU

○

•

Replacement Part

• MainReplacementPart

○

Additional Replacement Part

Immobilizer System Inspection

• Refer to the Immobilizer Amplifier and Blank Key Detec-

tion section in Fuel System (DFI) chapter (see Immobilizer

Amplifier (Service Code 35) section in the Fuel System

(DFI) chapter).

16-100 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Switches and Sensors

Brake Light Timing Inspection

• Refer to the Brake Light Switch Operation Inspection in

the Periodic Maintenance chapter.

Brake Light Timing Adjustment

• Refer to the Brake Light Switch Operation Inspection in

the Periodic Maintenance chapter.

Switch Inspection

• Using a hand tester, check to see that only the con-

nections shown in the table have continuity (about zero

ohms).

○For the switch housings and the ignition switch, refer to

the tables in the Wiring Diagram.

If the switch has an open or short, repair it or replace it

with a new one.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Rear Brake Light Switch Connections

Sidestand Switch Connections

Oil Pressure Switch Connections*

*: Engine lubrication system is in good condition.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-101

Switches and Sensors

Water Temperature Sensor Inspection

• Remove the water temperature sensor (see Removal/In-

stallation in the Fuel System (DFI) chapter).

• Suspend the sensor [A] in a container of coolant so that

the threaded portion is submerged.

• Suspend an accurate thermometer [B] with temperature

sensing portions [C] located in almost the same depth.

NOTE

○The sensor and thermometer must not touch the con-

tainer side or bottom.

• Place the container over a source of heat and gradu-

ally raise the temperature of the coolant while stirring the

coolant gently.

• Using the hand tester, measure the internal resistance of

the sensor.

○The sensor sends electric signals to the ECU and coolant

temperature gauge in the meter unit.

○Measure the resistance across the terminals and the body

(for the gauge) at the temperatures shown in the table.

If the hand tester does not show the specified values, re-

place the sensor.

Water Temperature Sensor

Resistance for ECU [D]

Resistance (kΩ)

Temperature

(Terminal [1]-[3])

+0.115

20°C (68°F)

2.46

-0.143

80°C (176°F)

0.32 ±0.011

110°C (230°F)

0.1426 ±0.0041

Resistance for Water Temperature Gauge [E]

Resistance (Ω)

Temperature

(Terminal [2]-Body)

50°C (122°F)

210 ±40

120°C (248°F)

21.2 ±1.5

Speed Sensor Removal

• Loosen the bolt [A].

• Disconnect the speed sensor lead connector [B].

• Remove:

Bolt [C]

Speed Sensor [D]

Speed Sensor Installation

• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the sensor bolt.

• Install the speed sensor.

Torque - Speed Sensor Bolt: 3.9 N·m (0.40 kgf·m, 35 in·lb)

16-102 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Switches and Sensors

Speed Sensor Inspection

• Remove the speed sensor (see Speed Sensor Removal).

• Connect the speed sensor lead connector [A] with the bat-

tery [B], 10 kΩ resistor [C] and hand tester [D] as shown.

• Set the tester to the DC 25 V range.

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

• Trace [A] each side of the speed sensor surface with the

screw driver.

○Then the tester indicator should flick [B].

If the tester indicator does not flick, replace the speed

sensor.

Fuel Level Sensor Inspection

• Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel

System (DFI) chapter).

• Open the clamps [A].

• Remove:

Bolts [B]

Fuel Level Sensor [C]

• Check that the float moves up and down smoothly without

binding. It should go down under its own weight.

If the float does not move smoothly, replace the sensor.

Float in Full Position [A]

Float in Empty Position [B]

Float Arm Stoppers [C]

• Using the hand tester [A], measure the resistance across

the terminals in the fuel level sensor lead connector [B].

Special Tools - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Needle Adapter Set: 57001-1457

If the tester readings are not as specified, or do not

change smoothly according as the float moves up and

down, replace the sensor.

Fuel Level Sensor Resistance

Standard: Full position [C]: 9 ∼ 11 Ω

Empty position: 213 ∼ 219 Ω

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-103

Switches and Sensors

• Install a new gasket [A] on the fuel level sensor as shown.

Hollows [B]

Front [C]

• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of

the level sensor bolts and tighten it.

Torque - Fuel Level Sensor Bolts: 6.9 N·m (0.70 kgf·m, 61

in·lb)

Fuel Reserve Switch Inspection

• Fill the fuel tank with fuel.

• Close the fuel tank cap surely.

• Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel

System (DFI) chapter).

• Connect the test light [A] (12 V 3.4 W bulb in a socket with

leads) and the 12 V battery [B] to the fuel pump connector

[C].

Connections

Battery (+) → 12 V 3.4 W Bulb (one side)

12 V 3.4 W Bulb (other side) → BK/R Lead Terminal

Battery (-) → BK/W Lead Terminal

Special Tool - Needle Adapter Set: 57001-1457

If the test light turn on, the reserve switch is defective.

Replace the fuel pump.

• Remove the fuel pump (see Fuel Pump Removal in the

Fuel System (DFI) chapter).

• Connect the test light (12 V 3.4 W bulb in a socket with

leads) and the 12 V battery to the fuel pump connector as

shown.

12 V Battery [A]

Test Light [B]

Fuel Pump Connector [C]

Fuel Reserve Switch [D]

If the test light doesn’t light, replace the fuel pump.

NOTE

○It may take a long time to turn on the test light in case

that the fuel reserve switch is inspected just after the

fuel pump is removed. Leave the fuel reserve switch

with leads for inspection connected for few minutes.

16-104 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Switches and Sensors

Gear Position Switch Removal

• Remove the lower fairings (see Lower Fairing Removal in

the Frame chapter).

• Slide out the rubber boot [A].

• Loosen the oil pressure switch terminal bolt [B], and re-

move the switch lead [C].

• Open the clamps [A].

• Remove:

Engine Sprocket Cover (see Engine Sprocket Removal

in the Final Drive chapter)

Bolt [A]

Clamp [B]

• Disconnect the oil pressure switch/gear position switch

lead connector [C].

• Open the clamp [A].

• Remove:

Screws [B]

Gear Position Switch [C]

• Remove the pin [A] and spring from the shift drum.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-105

Switches and Sensors

Gear Position Switch Installation

• Securely place the spring [A] and pin [B] into the hole [C]

of the shift drum.

• Apply grease to the new O-ring [D].

• Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the gear position

switch screws.

• Tighten:

Torque - Gear Position Switch Screws: 3.0 N·m (0.31 kgf·m,

27 in·lb)

Gear Position Switch Lead Clamp Bolt: 9.8 N·m

(1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)

• Run the gear position switch and oil pressure switch lead

correctly (see Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing section in

the Appendix chapter).

• Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).

Gear Position Switch Inspection

NOTE

○Be sure the transmission mechanism is good condition.

• Disconnect the connector [A].

• Set the hand tester [A] to the 1 kΩ or × 100 Ω range and

connect it to the terminals in the oil pressure switch/gear

position switch lead connector [B] and ground.

[C] Internal Circuit

[1] Light Green Lead

[2] Green/Red Lead

[3] Black Lead

Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394

Gear Position Switch Resistance

kΩ

Connections

Gear

[1]-Ground

[2]-Ground

[3]-Ground

Position

Neutral

about 0

1st

3.00 ∼ 3.32

11.63 ∼ 12.87

2nd

1.70 ∼ 1.89

10.33 ∼ 11.44

3rd

1.07 ∼ 1.19

9.70 ∼ 10.74

4th

0.695 ∼ 0.769

9.32 ∼ 10.32

5th

0.430 ∼ 0.476

9.06 ∼ 10.03

6th

0.248 ∼ 0.274

8.89 ∼ 9.81

If the tester reading is not as specified, replace the gear

position switch with a new one.

16-106 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Relay Box

The relay box [A] has relays and diodes. The relays and

diodes can not be removed.

Relay Box Removal

• Remove the seat (see Seat Removal in the Frame chap-

ter).

• Take out the relay box [A] and disconnect the connectors

[B].

Relay Circuit Inspection

NOTE

○The ECU main relay function is included in the ECU.

• Remove the relay box (see Relay Box Removal).

• Check conductivity of the following numbered terminals

by connecting the hand tester and one 12 V battery to the

relay box as shown (see Relay Box Internal Circuit).

If the tester does not read as specified, replace the relay

box.

Relay Circuit Inspection (with the battery disconnected)

Tester Connection

Tester Reading (Ω)

Headlight Circuit

1-3

∞

Relay

6-7

∞

Main Relay

4-5

Not ∞*

7-8

∞

Fuel Pump Relay

9-10

Not ∞*

11-16

∞

Starter Circuit Relay

11-12

∞

17-20

∞

Fan Relay

18-19

Not ∞*

*: The actual reading varies with the hand tester used.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-107

Relay Box

Relay Circuit Inspection (with the battery connected)

Battery

Tester

Connection

Reading (Ω)

(+)

(-)

2-11

1-3

Main Relay

4-5

7-6

Fuel Pump

9-10

7-8

Relay

Fan Relay

18-19

17-20

Battery

Tester Connection

Tester

Connection

DC 25 V Range

Reading (V)

(+)

(-)

Starter Circuit

Battery

16-12

11-12

Relay

Voltage

(+): Apply positive lead.

(-): Apply negative lead.

Diode Circuit Inspection

• Remove the relay box (see Relay Box Removal).

• Check conductivity of the following pairs of terminals (see

Relay Box Internal Circuit).

Diode Circuit Inspection

1-11, 2-11, 12-13, 12-15, 12-16, 13-14,

Tester Connection

13-15

The resistance should be low in one direction and more

than ten times as much in the other direction. If any diode

shows low or high in both directions, the diode is defective

and the relay box must be replaced.

NOTE

○The actual meter reading varies with the meter or tester

used and the individual diodes, but generally speaking,

the lower reading should be from zero to one half the

scale.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-111

Fuse

Fuse Inspection

• Remove the fuse (see 30 A Main/Fuse Box/15 A ECU

Fuse Removal).

• Inspect the fuse element.

If it is blown out, replace the fuse. Before replacing a

blown fuse, always check the amperage in the affected

circuit. If the amperage is equal to or greater than the

fuse rating, check the wiring and related components for

a short circuit.

Housing [A]

Fuse Element [B]

Terminals [C]

Blown Element [D]

NOTE

○A mass current flows to the battery according to the

state of the battery which needs refreshing charge when

the engine is turned causing main fuse blown out.

CAUTION

When replacing a fuse, be sure the new fuse

matches the specified fuse rating for that circuit.

Installation of a fuse with a higher rating may cause

damage to wiring and components.

APPENDIX 17-3

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Air Cleaner Drain Hose

2. Gear Position Switch Lead

3. Air Bleeder Hose for Water Pump

4. Sidestand Switch Lead

5. Clamp

6. Clamp the leads and hose as shown in the figure.

7. Tube

8. Grommet

9. Install the air switching valve hose until white paint is half hidden level.

10. Approx. 41 mm (0.02 in.)

11. Clamp

12. First, put the clamp to the adjuster screw position of shown in the figure, next fix to the clutch

hose.

13. Clutch Hose

14. Idle Adjusting Screw

15. Clamp

16. Clamp the speed sensor lead.

17. Speed Sensor Lead

18. Breather Tube

19. Clamp

20. Align the white paint and the end of the plate.

APPENDIX 17-7

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Reserver Tank Hosel

2. Reserver Tank Overflow Hose

3. Reserver Tank

4. Radiator

5. Right View

6. Air Bleeder Hose for Thermostat Housing

7. Thermostat Housing

8. Hose

9. Air Bleeder Hose for Water Pump

10. Outlet Hose

11. Inlet Hose

12. Oil Cooler

13. Water Pump

14. Hose

15. Hose

16. Left View

17. Align the white paint of the hose and mark of the thermostat housing cover.

18. About 45°

19. Clamp

20. Right View

21. Air Bleeder Hose for Water Pump

22. Air Bleeder Hose for Thermostat Housing

23. Align the white paint of the hose and mark of the water pump.

24. Install the hose so that white paint of the hose faces the front side.

25. Insert the air bleeder hose so that straight to the center of the impeller shaft.

26. Left View

APPENDIX 17-11

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Clamp (Install the clamp from the arrow mark side.)

2. Through the reserver tank hose on the air bleeder hose for thermostat housing.

3. Through the subharness for sensor and valve between the #3 and #4 of the throttle body.

4. Alternator Lead (To the regulator/rectifier connector through the alternator subharness.)

5. Through the alternator lead backside of the air bleeder hose for water pump.

6. Through the reserver tank hose between the air switching valve and bracket.

7. Connect the gear position switch lead and sidestand switch lead to the main harness.

8. Air Cleaner Drain Hose

9. Through the air cleaner drain hose between the engine sprocket cover and clutch hose.

10. Through the air cleaner drain hose on the water pump, put in the space of the lower fairing.

11. Through the reserver tank overflow hose into the fairing bracket, and through the hose into the

clamp.

12. Hose

13. Reserver Tank Overflow Hose

14. Hose

15. Through the reserver tank overflow hose between the hose and hose.

16. Through the gear position switch lead backside of the air bleeder hose for water pump.

APPENDIX 17-15

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Band (Clamp the main harness, and insert the band to the rear fender.)

2. Frame Ground Lead (Tighten the bolt with lead and bracket.)

3. Through the alternator subharness to the outside of the frame ground lead.

4. Alternator Connector (Install the alternator connector to the bracket.)

5. Connector (Insert the connector to the bracket.)

6. Alternator Subharness (Put the alternator subharness between the rear fender and frame.)

7. Alternator Lead

8. Through the alternator lead under the main harness.

9. Align the gray tape and the end of the battery case.

10. Fuel Hose

11. Main Harness

12. Alternator Lead (Through the alternator lead to the inside of the leads and hose.)

13. Sidestand Switch Lead Connector

14. Band (Clamp the main harness, and insert the band to the bracket.)

15. Throttle Body Subharness Connector (Install the connector to the bracket.)

16. Speed Sensor Lead Connector

17. Oil Pressure Switch/Gear Position Switch Lead Connector

18. Through the sidestand switch lead and oil pressure switch/gear position switch lead to the inside

of the chain cover from the hole of the notch.

19. Clamp (Clamp the fan motor lead.)

20. Through the engine harness to the outside of the clutch hose.

21. Engine Harness Connector (Install the engine harness connector to the bracket.)

22. Band (Clamp the main harness, and insert the band to the bracket.)

23. Stick Coil Lead Connector (Install the stick coil lead connector to the bracket of the cylinder

head cover.)

24. Through the stick coil lead under the throttle cables.

25. Band (Clamp the engine harness with the subframe.)

26. Clamp (Clamp the fan motor lead connector, and insert the clamp to the subframe.)

27. Through the oil pressure switch/gear position switch lead to the inside of the water pump.

28. Through the sidestand switch lead to the inside of the water pump.

APPENDIX 17-17

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Through the headlight lead into the clamp (both sides).

2. After ignition switch lead connector and left switch housing lead connector connecting, put the

connectors in the water-proof cover.

3. Clamp (Clamp the main harness, and insert the clamp to the middle air inlet duct.)

4. Clamp (Clamp the left turn signal lead, and insert the clamp to the middle air inlet duct.)

5. Left Turn Signal Light Lead Connector

6. Headlight Lead

7. Through the left switch housing lead and ignition switch lead into the clamp, and insert the clamp

to the bracket.

8. Through the left switch housing lead to the outside of the front fork, and through the lead into

the clamp.

9. Through the ignition switch lead to the backside of the front fork from the inside of the front fork,

and through the lead into the clamp.

10. Clamp

11. Left City Light

12. Headlight (High)

13. Headlight (Low)

14. Install the clamp outside as shown in the figure, and clamp the immobilizer amplifier lead.

15. Immobilizer Amplifier Lead Connector

16. Vehicle-down Sensor Lead Connector

17. Meter Unit Lead Connector

18. Through the main harness and immobilizer amplifier lead into the clamp.

19. Headlight Relay (High)

20. Clamp (Clamp the main harness, and insert the clamp to the middle air inlet duct.)

APPENDIX 17-19

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Right Turn Signal Light Lead Connector

2. Clamp (Clamp the right turn signal lead, and insert the clamp to the middle air inlet duct.)

3. *Front Wheel Rotation Sensor Lead Connector

4. Clamp (Clamp the main harness, and insert the clamp to the middle air inlet duct.)

5. Headlight Relay (Low)

6. Clamp (Clamp the main harness, and insert the clamp to the middle air inlet duct.)

7. Right Switch Housing Lead and Horn Lead

8. Right Switch Housing Lead Connector

9. Through the right switch housing lead, horn lead, headlight lead and *front wheel rotation sensor

lead into the clamp.

10. Clamp (Clamp the horn lead, and insert the clamp to the cover.)

11. Through the horn lead to the outside of the front fork.

12. Through the right switch housing lead to the outside of the front fork.

13. Through the right switch housing lead and horn lead into the clamp.

14. Through the rear wheel rotation sensor lead to the inside of the rear brake reservoir tank.

15. *Front Wheel Rotation Sensor Lead Connector (Install the front wheel rotation sensor lead con-

nector to the bracket.)

16. Through the main harness lead on the rear brake reservoir tank hose.

17. Fuse Box 1

18. Clamp

19. Alternator Subharness

20. Fuel Pump Lead Connector

21. Fuel Level Sensor Lead Connector

22. Clamp

23. Clamp (Clamp the rear brake light switch lead and *rear wheel rotation sensor lead.)

24. Rear Brake Light Switch Lead Connector

25. Through the rear brake light switch lead to the outside of the separator.

26. Rear Brake Light Switch Lead Connector

27. Clamp (Clamp the rear brake light switch lead.)

* ZX1400B Models only

APPENDIX 17-21

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Turn Signal Relay

2. License Plate Light Lead Connector

3. Atomospheric Pressure Sensor Lead Connector

4. Through the license plate light lead to the inside of the atomospheric pressure sensor.

5. License Plate Light Lead

6. Through the turn signal relay lead between the rear frame and rear frame pipe.

7. Rear Left Turn Signal Light Lead Connector

8. Tail/Brake Light Lead Connector

9. Rear Right Turn Signal Light Lead Connector

10. *ABS Kawasaki Self-diagnosis System Connector (Fix the ABS Kawasaki self-diagnosis system

connector with the sponge.)

11. Immobilizer/Kawasaki Diagnostic System Connector (Fix the Immobilizer/Kawasaki diagnositic

system connector with the sponge.)

12. Fuse Box 2

13. ECU Lead

14. ECU Lead

15. Relay Box Leads

16. Alternator Subharness

17. Alternator Lead

18. Clamp (Clamp the alternator lead and alternator subharness.)

19. Through the alternator lead and alternator subharness to the outside of the rear frame.

20. Through the alternator lead and alternator subharness under the rear brake reservoir tank.

21. Fuse Box 1

22. Through the alternator subharness under the bracket.

* ZX1400B Models only

APPENDIX 17-23

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Through the main harness to the hole of the lower side.

2. Through the inlet air temperature sensor lead to the hole of the upper side.

3. *ABS Hydraulic Unit Lead

4. Inlet Air Temperature Sensor Lead

5. Battery Negative Lead

6. Starter Relay Lead

7. Battery Positive Lead Connector (Install the battery positive lead connector to the battery case.)

8. Starter Motor Cable

9. Battery Negative Lead Connector (Install the battery negative lead connector to the bracket.)

10. Battery Positive Cable

11. Battery Negative Lead

12. Battery Negative Cable

13. Direction of Battery Negative Terminal Installation

14. Tighten the bolt with battery negative cable and battery negative lead.

15. Battery Negative Cable

16. Clamp (Clamp the inlet air temperature sensor lead.)

17. Inlet Air Temperature Sensor

18. *Bracket

* ZX1400B Models only

APPENDIX 17-25

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Fuel Tank Drain Hose

2. Through the fuel tank drain hose under the bracket.

3. Position a yellow tape at the rear end of bracket.

4. Through the fuel tank drain hose to the backside of the clamp.

5. Through the fuel tank drain hose under the fuel hose.

6. Through the fuel tank drain hose under the clamp.

7. Fuel Tank Drain Hose

8. Through the fuel tank drain hose under the starter motor cable.

9. Fuel Tank Drain Hose

10. Through the fuel tank drain hose under the lower fairing.

11. Through the fuel tank drain hose on the speed sensor lead.

12. Through the fuel tank drain hose under the heat insulation rubber plate.

13. Through the fuel tank drain hose under the clutch hose.

14. Position a yellow tape at the end of lower fairing.

15. Through the seat lock cable to the rear frame.

APPENDIX 17-31

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Through the clutch hose inside the coolant reserver tank.

2. Through the clutch hose outside the sidestand switch, speed sensor, oil pressure switch/gear

position switch leads.

3. Install the cluth hose joint as shown in the figure (face the clutch hose joint pipe inside).

4. Through the clutch hose inside the main harness.

5. Through the clutch hose outside the sidestand switch, speed sensor and oil pressure switch/gear

position switch lead connectors.

6. Clamp the clutch hose to the clamp of the subframe.

7. Through the clutch hose inside the radiator fan lead.

8. Through the clutch hose inside the subframe.

9. Through the ignition switch lead upper the clutch hose.

10. Through the clutch hose in the clamp.

APPENDIX 17-43

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. ABS Hydraulic Unit

2. Brake Pipe (Two White Paint Marks)

3. Brake Hose

4. Clamps (Through only the brake hose in the clamps.)

5. Rear Wheel Rotation Sensor Lead

6. Clamps (Clamp the brake hose, and align the clamps with white tape of the rear wheel rotation

sensor lead.)

7. Clamp (Clamp the brake hose and rear wheel rotation sensor.)

8. Clamp (Clamp the brake hose and rear wheel rotation sensor.)

9. Brake Pipe (Two Blue Paint Marks)

10. Bracket

11. Rear Wheel Rotation Sensor

12. Viewed Rear Side

13. Brake Hose (Two Blue Paint Marks)

14. Brake Hose Joint Pipe (Two Blue Paint Marks)

15. Brake Hose (Two White Paint Marks)

16. Brake Hose Joint Pipe (One White Paint Mark)

APPENDIX 17-45

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Brake Hose

2. Clamps (Through the brake hose in the clamp on both sides.)

3. Clamps (Clamp the brake hose, and align the clamps with white tapes of the front wheel rotation

sensor lead.)

4. Brake Hose

5. Clamp (Through only the brake hose in the clamp.)

6. Clamp

7. Front Wheel Rotation Sensor

8. Install the brake hose joint as shown in the figure (face the projection of the brake hose joint

backward.)

9. Brake Hose

10. Clamp (Clamp the brake hose, and align the clamp with white tape of the front wheel rotation

sensor lead.)

11. Clamp

12. Front Wheel Rotation Sensor Lead Connector

13. Right Middle Air Inlet Duct

14. Brake Hose

15. Brake Hose

16. Clamp

17. Braket

18. Braket

19. Clamp

20. Bracket

21. Brake Pipe

22. Brake Pipe

23. Brake Hose

24. Brake Hose

APPENDIX 17-47

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Bracket (Push the joint portions of the brake pipe, and clamp them.)

2. Brake Pipe (One Blue Paint Mark, ABS Hydraulic Unit Side)

3. Align the brake pipes with groove of the frame.

4. Brake Pipe (One White Paint Mark, ABS Hydraulic Unit Side)

5. Brake Hose (Two White Paint Marks) and Brake Hose Joint Pipe (One White Paint)

6. Brake Hose (One White Paint Mark) and Brake Hose Joint Pipe (One White Paint)

7. Brake Hose (One Blue Paint Mark) and Brake Hose Joint Pipe (One Blue Paint Mark)

8. Brake Hose (Two Blue Paint Marks) and Brake Hose Joint Pipe (Two Blue Paint Mraks)

9. Insert the brake pipes to the holes of damper, and fit the projection of damper into the hole of

bracket.

10. Brake Pipe (Two Blue Paint Marks)

11. Brake Pipe (Two White Paint Marks)

APPENDIX 17-51

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Throttle Body Assy

2. To the fitting of the throttle body #3.

3. To the fitting of the throttle body #4.

4. Clamps

5. Clamp

6. Insert the bracket to the holes of clamp.

7. Hose (White)

8. Hose (Green)

9. Hose (White)

10. Fittings

11. Hose (Red)

12. Hose (Blue)

13. Hose (Blue)

14. Hose (Green)

15. Separator

16. Clamp

17. Fuel Tank

18. Canister

19. Band

20. Connected position of the white hoses and fitting.

21. Connected position of the green hoses and fitting.

22. Face the paint marks upward.

23. Face the paint marks to the right side.

24. Through the hoses inside the throttle body subharness.

25. Viewed Right Side

26. Viewed Upside

17-52 APPENDIX

Troubleshooting Guide

NOTE

Stick coil shorted or not in good contact

○Refer to the Fuel System chapter for most

Stick coil trouble

of DFI trouble shooting guide.

ECU trouble

○This is not an exhaustive list, giving every

Camshaft position sensor trouble

possible cause for each problem listed. It

Gear position, starter lockout, or side stand

is meant simply as a rough guide to assist

switch trouble

the troubleshooting for some of the more

Crankshaft sensor trouble

common difficulties.

Ignition switch or engine stop switch

shorted

Engine Doesn’t Start, Starting

Starter system wiring shorted or open

Difficulty:

Main 30A or ignition fuse blown

Starter motor not rotating:

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

Ignition and engine stop switch not ON

Bypass screw and/or idle adjusting screw

Starter lockout switch or gear position

maladjusted

switch trouble

Air passage clogged

Starter motor trouble

Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or miss-

Battery voltage low

ing

Starter relay not contacting or operating

Leak from oil filler cap, crankcase breather

Starter button not contacting

hose or air cleaner drain hose.

Starter system wiring open or shorted

Compression Low:

Ignition switch trouble

Spark plug loose

Engine stop switch trouble

Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened

Main 30A or ignition fuse blown

down

Starter motor rotating but engine doesn’t

Cylinder, piston worn

turn over:

Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or

Vehicle-down sensor (DFI) coming off

sticking)

Immobilizer system trouble

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive

Starter clutch trouble

Cylinder head gasket damaged

Starter idle gear trouble

Cylinder head warped

Engine won’t turn over:

Valve spring broken or weak

Valve seizure

No valve clearance

Valve lifter seizure

Valve not seating properly (valve bent,

Cylinder, piston seizure

worn, or carbon accumulation on the

Crankshaft seizure

seating surface)

Connecting rod small end seizure

Connecting rod big end seizure

Poor Running at Low Speed:

Transmission gear or bearing seizure

Spark weak:

Camshaft seizure

Battery voltage low

Starter idle gear seizure

Immobilizer system trouble

Balancer bearing seizure

Stick coil trouble

No fuel flow:

Stick coil shorted or not in good contact

No fuel in tank

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted

Fuel pump trouble

Spark plug incorrect

Fuel tank air vent obstructed

ECU trouble

Fuel filter clogged

Camshaft position sensor trouble

Fuel line clogged

Crankshaft sensor trouble

No spark; spark weak:

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

Vehicle-down sensor (DFI) coming off

Bypass screw maladjusted

Ignition switch not ON

Air passage clogged

Engine stop switch turned OFF

Air bleed pipe bleed holes clogged

Clutch lever not pulled in or gear not in neu-

Pilot passage clogged

tral

Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or miss-

Battery voltage low

ing

Immobilizer system trouble

Fuel tank air vent obstructed

Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap malad-

Fuel pump trouble

justed

Throttle body assy holder loose

Spark plug incorrect

Air duct holder loose

APPENDIX 17-53

Troubleshooting Guide

Compression low:

Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened

Spark plug loose

down

Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened

No valve clearance

down

Cylinder, piston worn

No valve clearance

Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or

Cylinder, piston worn

sticking)

Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive

sticking)

Cylinder head gasket damaged

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive

Cylinder head warped

Cylinder head gasket damaged

Valve spring broken or weak

Cylinder head warped

Valve not seating properly (valve bent,

Valve spring broken or weak

worn, or carbon accumulation on the

Valve not seating properly (valve bent,

seating surface.)

worn, or carbon accumulation on the

Knocking:

seating surface)

Carbon built up in combustion chamber

Camshaft cam worm

Fuel poor quality or incorrect

Run-on (dieseling):

Spark plug incorrect

Ignition switch trouble

ECU trouble

Engine stop switch trouble

Miscellaneous:

Fuel injector trouble

Throttle valve won’t fully open

Loosen terminal of battery (-) cable or ECU

Brake dragging

ground lead

Clutch slipping

Carbon accumulating on valve seating sur-

Engine overheating

face

Engine oil level too high

Engine overheating

Engine oil viscosity too high

Other:

Drive train trouble

ECU trouble

Camshaft cam worm

Throttle body assy not synchronizing

Air suction valve trouble

Engine oil viscosity too high

Air switching valve trouble

Drive train trouble

Catalytic converter melt down due to muffler

Brake dragging

overheating (KLEEN)

Clutch slipping

Engine overheating

Overheating:

Air suction valve trouble

Firing incorrect:

Air switching valve trouble

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted

Spark plug incorrect

Poor Running or No Power at High

ECU trouble

Speed:

Muffler overheating:

Firing incorrect:

For KLEEN, do not run the engine even if

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted

with only one cylinder misfiring or poor

Spark plug incorrect

running (Request the nearest service fa-

Stick coil shorted or not in good contact

cility to correct it)

trouble

For KLEEN, do not push-start with a dead

Stick coil trouble

battery (Connect another full-charged

ECU trouble

battery with jumper cables, and start the

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

engine using the electric starter)

Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or miss-

For KLEEN, do not start the engine under

ing

misfire due to spark plug fouling or poor

Air duct holder loose

connection of the stick coil

Water or foreign matter in fuel

For KLEEN, do not coast the motorcycle

Throttle body assy holder loose

with the ignition switch off (Turn the igni-

Fuel to injector insufficient

tion switch ON and run the engine)

Fuel tank air vent obstructed

ECU trouble

Fuel line clogged

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

Fuel pump trouble

Throttle body assy holder loose

Compression low:

Air duct holder loose

Spark plug loose

Air cleaner poorly sealed, or missing

17-54 APPENDIX

Troubleshooting Guide

Air cleaner clogged

Clutch slave cylinder trouble

Compression high:

Clutch fluid deteriorated

Carbon built up in combustion chamber

Air in clutch fluid line

Engine load faulty:

Clutch master cylinder primary or sec-

Clutch slipping

ondary cup damage

Engine oil level too high

Clutch master cylinder scratched inside

Engine oil viscosity too high

Drive train trouble

Gear Shifting Faulty:

Brake dragging

Doesn’t go into gear; shift pedal doesn’t

Lubrication inadequate:

return:

Engine oil level too low

Clutch not disengaging

Engine oil poor quality or incorrect

Shift fork bent or seized

Oil cooler incorrect:

Gear stuck on the shaft

Oil cooler clogged

Gear positioning lever binding

Gauge incorrect:

Shift return spring weak or broken

Water temperature gauge broken

Shift return spring pin loose

Water temperature sensor broken

Shift mechanism arm spring broken

Coolant incorrect:

Shift mechanism arm broken

Coolant level too low

Shift pawl broken

Coolant deteriorated

Jumps out of gear:

Wrong coolant mixed ratio

Shift fork ear worn, bent

Cooling system component incorrect:

Gear groove worn

Radiator fin damaged

Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn

Radiator clogged

Shift drum groove worn

Thermostat trouble

Gear positioning lever spring weak or bro-

Radiator cap trouble

ken

Radiator fan relay trouble

Shift fork guide pin worn

Fan motor broken

Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear

Fan blade damaged

splines worn

Water pump not turning

Overshifts:

Water pump impeller damaged

Gear positioning lever spring weak or bro-

ken

Over Cooling:

Shift mechanism arm spring broken

Gauge incorrect:

Water temperature gauge broken

Abnormal Engine Noise:

Water temperature sensor broken

Knocking:

Cooling system component incorrect:

ECU trouble

Thermostat trouble

Carbon built up in combustion chamber

Fuel poor quality or incorrect

Clutch Operation Faulty:

Spark plug incorrect

Clutch slipping:

Overheating

Friction plate worn or warped

Piston slap:

Steel plate worn or warped

Cylinder/piston clearance excessive

Clutch spring broken or weak

Cylinder, piston worn

Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn

Connecting rod bent

Clutch master cylinder trouble

Piston pin, piston pin hole worn

Clutch slave cylinder trouble

Valve noise:

Clutch not disengaging properly:

Valve clearance incorrect

Clutch plate warped or too rough

Valve spring broken or weak

Clutch spring compression uneven

Camshaft bearing worn

Engine oil deteriorated

Valve lifter worn

Engine oil viscosity too high

Other noise:

Engine oil level too high

Connecting rod small end clearance exces-

Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft

sive

Clutch hub nut loose

Connecting rod big end clearance exces-

Clutch hub spline damaged

sive

Clutch friction plate installed wrong

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive

APPENDIX 17-55

Troubleshooting Guide

Piston ring worn, broken, or stuck

Engine oil level too low

Piston ring groove worn

Engine oil viscosity too low

Piston seizure, damage

Camshaft bearing worn

Cylinder head gasket leaking

Crankshaft bearing worn

Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head con-

Oil pressure switch damaged

nection

Wiring faulty

Crankshaft runout excessive

Relief valve stuck open

Engine mount loose

O-ring at the oil passage in the crankcase

Crankshaft bearing worn

damaged

Primary gear worn or chipped

Camshaft chain tensioner trouble

Exhaust Smokes Excessively:

Camshaft chain, sprocket, guide worn

White smoke:

Air suction valve damaged

Piston oil ring worn

Air switching valve damaged

Cylinder worn

Alternator rotor loose

Valve oil seal damaged

Catalytic converter melt down due to muffler

Valve guide worn

overheating (KLEEN)

Engine oil level too high

Black smoke:

Abnormal Drive Train Noise:

Air cleaner clogged

Clutch noise:

Brown smoke:

Clutch damper weak or damaged

Air duct holder loose

Clutch housing/friction plate clearance ex-

Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing

cessive

Clutch housing gear worn

Handling and/or Stability

Wrong installation of outside friction plate

Unsatisfactory:

Transmission noise:

Handlebar hard to turn:

Bearings worn

Cable routing incorrect

Transmission gear worn or chipped

Hose routing incorrect

Metal chips jammed in gear teeth

Wiring routing incorrect

Engine oil insufficient

Steering stem nut too tight

Drive line noise:

Steering stem bearing damaged

Drive chain adjusted improperly

Steering stem bearing lubrication inade-

Drive chain worn

quate

Rear and/or engine sprocket worn

Steering stem bent

Chain lubrication insufficient

Tire air pressure too low

Rear wheel misaligned

Handlebar shakes or excessively vibrates:

Tire worn

Abnormal Frame Noise:

Swingarm pivot bearing worn

Front fork noise:

Rim warped, or not balanced

Oil insufficient or too thin

Wheel bearing worn

Spring weak or broken

Handlebar holder bolt loose

Rear shock absorber noise:

Steering stem nut loose

Shock absorber damaged

Front, rear axle runout excessive

Disc brake noise:

Engine mounting bolt loose

Pad installed incorrectly

Handlebar pulls to one side:

Pad surface glazed

Frame bent

Disc warped

Wheel misalignment

Caliper trouble

Swingarm bent or twisted

Other noise:

Swingarm pivot shaft runout excessive

Bracket, nut, bolt, etc.

not properly

Steering maladjusted

mounted or tightened

Front fork bent

Right and left front fork oil level uneven

Oil Pressure Warning Light Goes On:

Shock absorption unsatisfactory:

Engine oil pump damaged

(Too hard)

Engine oil screen clogged

Front fork oil excessive

Engine oil filter clogged

Front fork oil viscosity too high

Rear shock absorber adjustment too hard

17-56 APPENDIX

Troubleshooting Guide

Tire air pressure too high

Front fork bent

(Too soft)

Tire air pressure too low

Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking

Front fork oil viscosity too low

Rear shock adjustment too soft

Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weak

Rear shock absorber oil leaking

Brake Doesn’t Hold:

Air in the brake line

Pad or disc worn

Brake fluid leakage

Disc warped

Contaminated pad

Brake fluid deteriorated

Primary or secondary cup damaged in master

cylinder

Master cylinder scratched inside

Battery Trouble:

Battery discharged:

Charge insufficient

Battery faulty (too low terminal voltage)

Battery cable making poor contact

Load excessive (e.g., bulb of excessive

wattage)

Ignition switch trouble

Alternator trouble

Wiring faulty

Regulator/rectifier trouble

Battery overcharged:

Alternator trouble

Regulator/rectifier trouble

Battery faulty

Kawasaki ZZR 1400, ZZR1400 ABS, Ninja ZX-14 Motorcycle. Service Manual (2006-2007 year) - page 7