Ford Fiesta (1989-1995). Instruction - part 11

inspecting carefully for any wear grooves,
pitting or scoring around the teeth.
21 Refit the thrustwasher with its curved side
facing outwards, followed by the Woodruff
key.
22 Lubricate the oil seal and the crankshaft
sprocket with engine oil, then position the
sprocket on the crankshaft with its thrust face
facing outwards.
23 Using the auxiliary drivebelt pulley and its
retaining bolt, draw the sprocket fully into
position on the crankshaft. Remove the
pulley.
24 Refit the timing belt as described in
Section 8.

10 Camshaft oil seal - renewal

3

1 Remove the camshaft sprocket as
described in the previous Section.
2 The oil seal is now accessible for removal.
Note its direction of fitting, then using a
suitable screwdriver or a tool with a hooked
end to lever and extract the seal from its
housing (but take care not to damage the
housing with the tool) (see illustration).
3 Check that the housing is clean before
fitting the new seal. Lubricate the lips of the
seal and the running faces of the camshaft
with clean engine oil. Carefully locate the seal
over the camshaft, and drive it squarely into
position using a suitable tube or a socket (see
illustration). An alternative method of fitting is

to draw it squarely into position using the old
sprocket bolt and a suitable distance piece.
4 With the seal fully inserted in its housing,
refit the camshaft sprocket as described in
the previous Section.

11 Camshaft, rocker arms and

tappets - removal, inspection
and refitting

3

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Refer to the appropriate earlier Sections in
this Chapter, and remove the timing belt
upper cover and the rocker cover.
3 On carburettor models, refer to Chapter 4A
and remove the fuel pump. On models

equipped with a distributor ignition system,
refer to Chapter 5B and remove the distributor.
On PTE engines, refer to Chapter 4D and
remove the camshaft position sensor.
4 On models equipped with distributorless
ignition system, detach, unbolt and remove
the ignition coil, its support bracket and the
interference capacitor from the end of the
cylinder head, as described in Chapter 5B.
5 Undo the retaining nuts and remove the
guides, rocker arms and spacer plates (see
illustrations). Keep the respective
components in their original order of fitting by
marking them with a piece of numbered tape,
or by using a suitable sub-divided box.
6 Withdraw the hydraulic tappets, again
keeping them in their original fitted sequence.
The tappets should be placed in an oil bath
while removed (see illustrations).
7 Unbolt and remove the lower cover beneath

CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures  2B•7

11.5a  Undo the rocker arm retaining nut  . . .

10.3  Using a socket to tap the camshaft

oil seal into place

11.6b  Store tappets in clearly-marked

container filled with oil to prevent oil loss

11.6a  Removing a hydraulic tappet

11.5c  . . . followed by the rocker arm  . . .

11.5b  . . . withdraw the guide  . . .

11.5d  . . . and spacer plate

10.2  Camshaft front oil seal removal

2B

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

the crankshaft pulley, then with a spanner
engaged on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn
the crankshaft over to set the engine at TDC
for No 1 piston on compression (see Sec-
tion 3).
8 Remove the camshaft sprocket as
described in Section 9.
9 Extract the camshaft oil seal as described
in Section 10.
10 Before removing the camshaft and its
thrust plate, check and take note of the
amount of camshaft endfloat, using a dial
gauge or feeler gauges. With the camshaft
endfloat measured and noted, unscrew the
two retaining bolts and then extract the
camshaft thrust plate from its pocket at the
front end of the cylinder head (see
illustrations).
11 On models with a distributorless ignition

system, at the rear end of the cylinder head,
pierce the camshaft blanking plug with a
suitable tool, and then lever it out of its
aperture (see illustrations).
12 Withdraw the camshaft from the cylinder
head at the rear (distributor/ignition coil) end
(see illustration). Take care not to damage
the bearings in the cylinder head as the shaft
is withdrawn.

Inspection

13 Clean and inspect the various
components removed for signs of excessive
wear.
14 Examine the camshaft bearing journals
and lobes for damage or wear. If evident, a
new camshaft will be required.
15 Compare the previously-measured
camshaft endfloat with that specified. If the

endfloat is outside of the specified tolerance,
the thrust plate must be renewed.
16 The camshaft bearing bore diameters in
the cylinder head should be measured and
checked against the tolerances specified. A
suitable measuring gauge will be required for
this, but if this is not available, check for
excessive movement between the camshaft
journals and the bearings. If the bearings are
found to be unacceptably worn, a new
cylinder head is the only answer, as the
bearings are machined directly into the head.
17 It is seldom that the hydraulic tappets are
badly worn in the cylinder head bores but
again, if the bores are found to be worn
beyond an acceptable level, the cylinder head
must be renewed.
18 If the contact surfaces of the cam lobes
show signs of depression or grooving, they
cannot be renovated by grinding, as the
hardened surface will be removed and the
overall length of the tappet(s) will be reduced.
The self-adjustment point of the tappet will be
exceeded as a result, so that the valve
adjustment will be affected, resulting in noisy
operation. Therefore, renewal of the camshaft
is the only remedy in this case.
19 Inspect the rocker arm contact surfaces
for excessive wear, and renew if necessary
(see illustration).

Refitting

20 Refitting the camshaft and its associated
components is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but note the following special
points.
21 Lubricate the camshaft bearings, the
camshaft and the thrust plate with clean
engine oil prior to fitting them. As the
camshaft is inserted, take care not to damage
the bearings in the cylinder head. Tighten the
camshaft thrust plate retaining bolts to the
specified torque. When the thrust plate bolts
are tightened, make a final check to ensure
that the camshaft endfloat is as specified.
22 A new front oil seal must be fitted after the
camshaft has been installed (see previous
Section for details). It will also be necessary to
insert a new blanking plug into the rear end of
the cylinder head (where applicable). Drive it
squarely into position so that it is flush with
the head (see illustration).

2B•8 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures

11.22  Driving a new blanking plug into

position

11.19  Inspect the rocker arm contact

points indicated for excessive wear

11.12  Withdraw the camshaft from the

cylinder head

11.11b  . . . and lever it out of the cylinder

head

11.11a  Pierce the centre of the blanking

plug  . . .

11.10b  . . . and lift out the camshaft thrust

plate

11.10a  Undo the two retaining bolts

(arrowed)  . . .

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

23 Refer to the procedure in Section 9 when
refitting the camshaft sprocket.
24 Refit and tension the timing belt as
described in Section 8.
25 Lubricate the hydraulic tappets with
hypoid oil before refitting them into their
original locations in the cylinder head.
26 Lubricate and refit the rocker arms and
guides in their original sequence, use new
nuts and tighten them to the specified torque
setting. It is essential, before each rocker arm
is installed and its nut tightened, that the
respective cam follower is positioned at its
lowest point (in contact with the cam base
circle). Turn the cam (using the crankshaft
pulley bolt) as necessary to achieve this.
27 Refit the rocker cover as described in
Section 4.
28 Refit the remaining components with
reference to the relevant Sections in this
Chapter or elsewhere in the instruction.
29 On completion, reconnect the battery
negative lead.

12 Cylinder head - 

removal and refitting

4

Removal

Note: The following procedure describes
removal and refitting of the cylinder head
complete with inlet and exhaust manifolds. If
wished, the manifolds may be removed first,
as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4,
and the cylinder head then removed on its
own.
1 On fuel-injected engines, depressurise the
fuel system as described in Chapter 4B or 4C.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the cooling
system.

4 Remove the rocker cover as described in
Section 4.
5 Disconnect the accelerator and choke
cables as applicable (refer to the relevant Part
of Chapter 4).
6 Loosen off the retaining clips and
disconnect the upper coolant hose, the
expansion tank hose and the heater hose
from the thermostat housing. Also disconnect
the heater hose from the inlet manifold.

7 On CFi models, disconnect the heated
coolant hose from the injector unit.
8 On EFi and SEFi models, disconnect the
following (see illustration):
a)

The MAP sensor vacuum hose from the
inlet manifold upper section (EFi models).

b)

The carbon canister solenoid valve
vacuum hose from the inlet manifold
upper section.

c)

The oil trap vacuum hose at the “T” piece
connector.

d)

The brake servo vacuum hose from the
inlet manifold upper section by pressing
in the clamp ring and simultaneously
pulling the hose free from the connection.

e)

The coolant hose from the injector
intermediate flange and at the thermostat
housing.

9 Disconnect the following fuel supply/return
hoses. Plug the hoses and connections, to
prevent fuel spillage and the possible ingress
of dirt.
a)

On carburettor models, disconnect the
fuel supply hose from the pump and the
return hose from the carburettor.

b)

On CFi models, pull free and detach the
fuel return hose from the injection unit
and the supply hose at the connector.

c)

On EFi and SEFi models, detach the fuel
supply hose from the fuel rail or at the
quick-release coupling (where fitted).
Disconnect the return line from the fuel
pressure regulator or at the quick-release
coupling.

10 On CFi models, disconnect the brake
servo vacuum hose from the inlet manifold,
the MAP sensor vacuum hose from the
sensor, and the carbon canister connecting
hose at the injection unit (see illustration).
11 Noting their connections and routings,
disconnect the wiring connectors or multi-
plugs from the following items, where
applicable:
a)

Temperature gauge sender unit.

b)

DIS ignition coil.

c)

Coolant temperature sensor.

d)

Cooling fan thermostatic switch.

e)

Carburettor.

f)

Radio earth lead.

g)

Road speed sensor.

h)

Fuel injector wiring loom.

i)

Intake air temperature sensor.

12 On CFi models, detach the throttle control
motor, throttle position sensor and injector
lead multi-plugs (see illustration).
13 On models with a distributorless ignition
system, where still attached, disconnect the
HT leads from the DIS ignition coil and the
spark plugs. On models with a distributor
ignition system, remove the distributor as
described in Chapter 5B.
14 Position the engine with No 1 piston at
TDC on compression as described in Sec-
tion 3.
15 Loosen off the timing belt tensioner
retaining bolts, and move the tensioner to
release the tension from the drivebelt.
Support the belt, and move it clear of the
camshaft sprocket.
16 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
17 Unscrew the retaining nuts and detach
the exhaust downpipe from the manifold.
Remove the gasket; note that a new one must

CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures  2B•9

12.12  Wiring connections to be detached

on the 1.4 litre CFi fuel injected engine

A Coolant temperature sensor
B Throttle plate control motor
C Throttle position sensor
D Injector

12.10  Vacuum hose to the MAP sensor (A)
and the brake servo unit (B) on the 1.4 litre

CFi fuel-injected engine

12.8  Vacuum hoses and throttle cable

connections on the 1.6 litre EFi fuel

injected engine

A Hose to MAP sensor
B Crankcase ventilation breather hose
C Throttle cable and clip
D Oil trap hose and T-piece connector
E Hose to oil trap
F Hose to carbon canister solenoid valve

2B

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Whenever you disconnect
any vacuum lines, coolant or
emissions hoses, wiring
connectors and fuel lines,

always label them clearly, so that they
can be correctly reassembled. Masking
tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator
work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations
of components and brackets.

be fitted on reassembly. Tie the downpipe up
to support it.
18 Before it is released and removed, the
cylinder head must first have cooled down to
room temperature (about 20ºC).
19 Unscrew the cylinder head retaining bolts
progressively in the reverse order to that
shown for tightening (see illustration 12.28).
The cylinder head bolts must be discarded
and new bolts obtained for refitting the
cylinder head.
20 Remove the cylinder head complete with
its manifolds. If necessary, grip the manifolds
and rock it free from the location dowels on
the top face of the cylinder block. Do not
attempt to tap it sideways or lever between
the head and the block top face.
21 Remove the cylinder head gasket. This must
always be renewed; it is essential that the
correct type is obtained. Save the old gasket, so
that the identification marks (teeth) can be used
when ordering the new one (see illustration).

Preparation for refitting

22 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block must be perfectly clean before
refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood
scraper to remove all traces of gasket and
carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take
particular care during the cleaning operations,
as aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also,
make sure that the carbon is not allowed to
enter the oil and water passages - this is
particularly important for the lubrication
system, as carbon could block the oil supply
to the engine’s components. Using adhesive
tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt
holes in the cylinder block. 

23 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep
scratches and other damage. If slight, they

may be removed carefully with a file, but if
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative to renewal.
24 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part D of this
Chapter if necessary.
25 Ensure that new cylinder head bolts are
used when refitting and clean out the bolt
holes in the block. Screwing a bolt into an oil-
filled hole can (in extreme cases) cause the
block to fracture, due to the hydraulic
pressure.

Refitting

26 To prevent the possibility of the valves
and pistons coming into contact as the head
is fitted, turn the crankshaft over to position
No 1 piston approximately 20 mm below its
TDC position in the bore.
27 Locate the cylinder head gasket on the
top face of the cylinder block, locating it over
the dowels. Ensure that the gasket is fitted the
correct way up, as indicated by its “OBEN-
TOP” marking (see illustration).
28 Lower the cylinder head into position,
ensuring that it fits over the locating dowels,
then insert the new retaining bolts. Hand-
tighten the bolts initially, then tighten them in
the order shown in the four stages to the
specified torque setting (see illustration).
Where possible, use an angular torque setting
gauge attachment tool for accurate tightening
of stages three and four. Alternatively, after
the first two stages, mark the bolt heads with
a dab of quick drying paint, so that the paint
spots all face the same direction. Now tighten
all the bolts in the sequence to the Stage 3
setting, by tightening them through the
specified angle. Finally, angle-tighten all the
bolts through the Stage 4 angle.
29 The camshaft sprocket should be
positioned so that its TDC index mark pointer
is in alignment with the TDC index spot mark
on the front end face of the cylinder head (see
illustration 3.6b).
30 Now turn the crankshaft pulley to bring its
TDC notch in alignment with the TDC (0)
indicator on the front face of the timing belt
cover, taking the shortest route (not vice-
versa) (see illustration 3.6a).

31 Refit the timing belt over the camshaft
sprocket, and then tension the belt as
described in Section 8.
32 The remainder of the refitting procedure is
a reversal of the removal process. Tighten all
fastenings to their specified torque setting
(where given). Refer to the appropriate Parts
of Chapter 4 for details on reconnecting the
fuel and exhaust system components, and to
Chapter 5B for details on reconnecting the
ignition system components. Ensure that all
coolant, fuel, vacuum and electrical
connections are securely made.
33 On completion, refill the cooling system
and top-up the engine oil (see Chapter 1 and
“Weekly Checks”). When the engine is
restarted, check for any sign of fuel, oil and/or
coolant leakages from the various cylinder
head joints.

13 Sump - 

removal and refitting

2

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter
1.
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove
the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside
the right-hand wheel arch.
4 Where fitted, pull free the oxygen sensor
lead multi-plug, and disconnect it. If the
engine has been recently run, take particular
care against burning when working in the area
of the catalytic converter.
5 Undo the retaining nuts, and detach the
exhaust downpipe from the manifold. The
flange gasket must be renewed when
reconnecting. Where applicable, also detach
the downpipe at the rear of the catalytic
converter, and release it from the front
mounting.
6 On XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember as described in
Chapter 10. On all models, undo the nut and

2B•10 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures

12.28  Cylinder head bolt tightening

sequence

12.27  Fit the cylinder head gasket with the

“OBEN/TOP” marking upwards  . . .

12.21  Cylinder head location dowels (A)

and gasket identification teeth (B)

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons
and bores, smear a little
grease in the gap. After

cleaning each piston, use a small brush
to remove all traces of grease and
carbon from the gap, then wipe away
the remainder with a clean rag.