Scania DI12, DC12 EMS with S6/PDE. Industrial engine. Operator’s manual - part 3

 

  Index      Scania     Scania DI12, DC12 EMS with S6/PDE. Industrial engine. Operator’s manual

 

Search            copyright infringement  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Content      ..     1      2      3      4      ..

 

 

Scania DI12, DC12 EMS with S6/PDE. Industrial engine. Operator’s manual - part 3

 

 

33

1. Daily:

Checking the oil level

Note:

Before checking oil level: Leave the engine switched off for at 

least 1 minute.

- The correct level is between the marks on the dipstick. Top up when the 

level is at the lower mark.

- For the correct oil grade, see page 32.

Checking oil level during operation

On some engines the oil level can be checked during operation.

- Remove the oil filler cap to release the pressure in the crankcase.
- Check the level on the dipstick. Correct oil level: 10 mm below the Min. 

or Max. mark.

2. Every 400 hours:

Oil change 

Note:

If the engine is used for especially demanding operations, 

particularly in a dusty environment or if the deposits in the 

centrifugal cleaner are thicker than 20 mm: change the oil more 

frequently.

- Unscrew the oil plug and drain the oil when the engine is hot.
- In certain engines the oil is pumped out by means of a bilge pump.
- Clean the magnet on the oil plug.
- Refit the oil plug and top up with oil.
- Check the level on the oil dipstick.

Max. 33 dm

3

Min. 28 dm

3

1 dm

3

 = 1 litre

Maximum angles of inclination during operation 

Maximum permissible angles during operation vary, depending on the type of 

oil sump, see illustration.

Note:

The specified angles may only occur intermittently.

35°

25°

25°

35°

The oil may be hot.

Wear protective gloves and 

goggles.

Max.

Min.

Use a container to avoid spillage 

when changing the oil. Dispose 

of used oil through an 

authorised waste disposal 

contractor.

WARNING

!

Help protect our 

environment!

34

3. Every 400 hours:

Cleaning the oil cleaner

(in connection with oil change)

- Clean the cover. Unscrew the nut and remove the cover.

- Lift out the rotor and wipe the outside. Unscrew the rotor cover nut 

about one and a half turns.

- If the rotor nut is jammed:

Turn the rotor upside down and fasten the nut in a vice, and turn the 

rotor one and a half turns counterclockwise by hand, or use an M20 nut 

as illustrated.

Note:

The rotor must never be put in a vice.

- Hold the rotor and tap lightly on the rotor nut with a plastic mallet or 

against the workbench, so that the rotor bowl comes loose from the 

bottom plate. Never strike on the rotor directly as this may damage the 

bearings.

- Unscrew the nut and remove the rotor cover.
- Remove the strainer. If the strainer has seized in the rotor bowl, pry 

carefully using a screwdriver between the rotor bowl and the strainer.

- If the strainer has seized in the rotor, pry carefully between the rotor and 

the strainer.

- Scrape off the deposits from the inside of the rotor cover. If there are no 

deposits, this indicates that the cleaner is not working properly.

- If the deposits are thicker than 28 mm: clean more often.

Open the cover carefully. The 

oil may be hot.

WARNING

!

35

- Wash all parts in diesel oil.
- Make sure the nozzles on the rotor are not blocked or damaged.
- Check that the bearings are undamaged. If they are damaged the entire 

rotor must be renewed.

- Fit a new O-ring on the rotor and fit the strainer.

- Reassemble the rotor.

- Tighten the rotor nut firmly by hand.

- Check that the shaft is not loose. If it is loose, use locking compound 

561 200 and torque tighten to 34 Nm using tool 98 421.

- In order to tighten the rotor shaft, it is necessary to modify socket 

wrench 98 421:

- Drill out the threads from a M20 nut so that it fits on the square drive 

of the socket wrench.

- Weld the nut into place.

- Refit the rotor.
- Check that it rotates easily by rotating it manually.

- Fit a new O ring on the bowl and fit the bowl.
- Screw the bowl on and tighten the lock nut to 15 Nm.

Tighten the nut carefully so as not to damage the rotor shaft, nut or cover.

Functional inspection

The rotor rotates very fast and should continue to rotate when the engine has 

stopped.

- Stop the engine when it is warm.
- Listen for a whirring sound from the rotor or feel whether the cleaner 

housing is vibrating.

The rotor normally continues spinning for 30-60 seconds after the engine has 

stopped.
If not: dismantle and check.

36

4. Every 400 hours:

Renewing the oil filter 

(in connection with oil change)

- Remove the old filter.
- Fit a new Scania genuine filter. Oil the seal on the filter before fitting.
- Tighten the filter by hand.

Never use tools for this. The filter could sustain damage, obstructing 

circulation.

- Start the engine and check for leaks.

Important!

If the deposits in the centrifugal cleaner are more than 

20 mm thick, the oil filter must be renewed more often. The 

same is true for cleaning the centrifugal filter and 

changing the oil.

Cooling system

5. Daily:

Checking coolant level

- Open the expansion tank filler cap and check the coolant level.
- Correct level:

 (Scania plastic expansion tank)

- Cold engine:

The coolant should be level with the bottom of the 

filler neck.

- Hot engine:

The coolant should be about 25 mm above the 

lower edge of the filler hole.

- Other types of expansion tank according to the instructions of the fitter.
- Top up the coolant as necessary; see point 6.

Note:

When filling large amounts of coolant:

Never pour cold coolant into a hot engine. This could crack the 

cylinder block and cylinder head.

Always top up with pre-mixed 

coolant.

Open the cap carefully.

Water and steam can spray out.

Use a container to avoid spillage 

when renewing the filter.

Dispose of used filters through 

an authorised waste disposal 

contractor.

Important

!

WARNING

!

Help protect our 

environment!

37

6. Every 2,400 hours:

Checking coolant

Coolant should be checked as follows:

a)

Check the appearance of the coolant.

b)

Coolant with glycol only: Check the glycol content.

c)

Coolant containing only Scania Corrosion Inhibitor: check the corrosion 

inhibitor content

The composition of the coolant is described in more detail under 

"Starting and running"

a)
Checking the appearance of the coolant

- Pour a small amount of coolant in a container, and check that the coolant 

is pure and clear.

- If the coolant is contaminated or cloudy: Consider changing the coolant.
- Water for the coolant must be clean and free from contamination.
- Use drinking water with a pH of 6-9.

b)
Checking the glycol content

If there is a danger of freezing, use only glycol as an anti-corrosive in the 

coolant.

- Cooling systems with glycol should contain at least 30% glycol by 

volume to provide acceptable protection against corrosion.

- 30% glycol by volume provides protection against freezing to -16°C. If 

additional protection against freezing is required, see the table on the 

next page to help you calculate how much glycol you need.

We recommend only nitrite-free antifreeze glycols with the following 

supplier designations:

BASF G48 or BASF D542

- Always add glycol if the glycol content drops below 30% by volume. A 

glycol content above 60% by volume will not provide greater protection 

against freezing.

- The table shows the temperature at which ice starts to form. The engine 

will freeze and break at appreciably lower temperatures; see diagram.

- Ice forming in the coolant often causes malfunctioning without any risk 

of damage. The engine should not be subjected to heavy loads when ice 

starts to form.

Note:

The coolant should be changed when the cooling system is 

cleaned: every 4,800 hours or at least every 5 years.

Important!

If a coolant filter is used in the cooling system it must not 

contain an inhibitor.

Coolant composition:

If there is a danger of freezing:

minimum 30% glycol by 

volume

maximum 60% glycol by 

volume

If there is no danger of freezing:

8-12% by volume

Scania Corrosion Inhibitor

The coolant should be pre-

mixed when it is poured into the 

cooling system.

Never top up with only water or 

only glycol.

Ethylene glycol is highly 

dangerous if imbibed and can 

prove fatal.

Avoid skin contact with glycol.

The recommended glycols must 

not be mixed with glycol 

containing nitrite-based 

corrosion inhibitor.

Risk of sludge build-up and 

reduced cooling capacity.

Important

!

Important

!

WARNING

!

38

A

A = Area to be avoided. Only for calculating glycol mix.

Coolant freezing point (when ice starts to form) for different glycol mixes

Glycol % by 

volume

15

20

25

30

35

40

45

50

60

Cooling system

volume, dm

3

Ice slush starts to 

form at °C

-6

-9

-12 -16 -22 -27 -36 -46 -55

Glycol dm

3

(litres)

5

6

8

9

11

12

14

15

18

30

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

20

24

40

8

10

13

15

18

20

23

25

30

50

9

12

15

18

21

24

27

30

36

60

11

14

18

21

25

28

32

35

42

70

12

16

20

24

28

32

36

40

48

80

14

18

23

27

32

36

41

45

54

90

15

20

25

30

35

40

45

50

60

100

17

22

28

33

39

44

50

55

66

110

18

24

30

36

42

48

54

60

72

120

20

26

33

39

46

52

59

65

78

130

21

28

35

42

49

56

63

70

84

140

23

30

38

45

53

60

68

75

90

150

24

32

40

48

56

64

72

80

96

160

26

34

43

51

60

68

77

85

102

170

27

36

45

54

63

72

81

90

108

180

29

38

48

57

67

76

86

95

114

190

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100 120

200

Curve A: Ice formation starts (ice slush)
Curve B: Temperature at which there is a risk of damage by freezing

1. Safe range
2. Malfunctions may occur (ice slush)
3. Risk of damage by freezing

Characteristics of glycol at low temperatures:

- Example with 30% glycol by volume
- Ice slush starts to form at -16°C.
- There is a risk of malfunctions at -30°C
- No risk of damage by freezing with a minimum 

content of 30% glycol by volume

Antifreeze glycol, % by volume

39

c)
Checking the corrosion inhibitor

There must always be sufficient corrosion protection (inhibitor) in the coolant 

to protect the cooling system against corrosion.
If there is no danger of freezing, only Scania Corrosion Inhibitor should be 

used in the coolant.
The inhibitor in Scania Corrosion Inhibitor is free of nitrites.
The correct corrosion inhibitor content is 8-12% by volume. 

- Topping up with 1.0% Scania Corrosion Inhibitor by volume should be 

done after every 2,400 hours of operation.

- Never top up with water alone or corrosion inhibitor alone!

Fluid losses must always be replaced with pre-mixed coolant: water 

+ 10% Scania Corrosion Inhibitor by volume.

Note:

The coolant should be changed when the cooling system is 

cleaned: every 4,800 hours or at least every 5 years.

Changing coolant

1.

Remove the filler cap from the expansion tank.

2.

The coolant is drained at two points:

- the lowest point of the cylinder block, see illustration.
- the lowest point of the cooling system. 

3.

Close the cocks.

4.

Top up with coolant through the expansion tank’s filler hole.
Mix coolant as described on page 35.

Use a container to avoid spills 

when changing the coolant.

Dispose of used coolant through 

an authorised waste disposal 

contractor.

If a coolant filter has been fitted 

it must not contain inhibitor.

Mixing with glycol or the use of 

too much corrosion protection 

can lead to build up of sludge 

and reduced cooling capacity.

Corrosion inhibitor is highly 

dangerous if ingested and can 

prove fatal.

Avoid contact with the skin.

Important

!

Important

!

WARNING

!

Help protect our 

environment!

40

7. Every 4,800 hours:

Cleaning the cooling system

Note:

If necessary, the cooling system should be cleaned more often.

External cleaning

Radiator

- Check that the radiator is not clogged on the air side and that the cooling 

fins are not damaged.

- Carefully scrape the deposit off the radiator’s cooling fins. If necessary, 

a paraffin-based engine cleaner can be used.

- Bent fins can be straightened using a wire brush, for example, and 

exercising care.

Charge air cooler, DI engine

1.

Drain the coolant from the engine, see "Changing the coolant".

2.

Detach the intake manifold from the turbo.

3.

Detach the charge air cooler’s inlet and outlet connections.

4.

Unbolt the charge air cooling package from the intake manifold. The 

charge air element is integrated into the housing.

Take care not to damage the element’s water connections.

5.

Clean the outside of the core. This is especially important if the engine is 

equipped with closed crankcase ventilation. Use a paraffin-based engine 

cleaner.

6.

Clean and degrease the sealing surfaces on the element and on the intake 

manifold with a spirit-based cleaning agent. 

7.

Apply a smooth bead of sealing agent (silicone 816 064), approximately 

2-3 mm, onto the intake manifold sealing surface.

8.

Assemble the charge air cooler within 15 minutes of applying the 

sealant. Tighten the bolts to 26 Nm.

9.

Refit the inlet and outlet connections with new 

O-rings.

10.

Refit the delivery pipe clamps.

11.

Connect the intake manifold from the turbo.

12.

Fill up with coolant according to the 

specification on page 35.

Important!

Let the sealing compound harden 

for at least 24 hours before the 

engine is used again.

1.

Charge air 

cooler element

2.

O-ring

3.

Sealant 816 064

4.

Intake manifold

1

2

3

4

The cooling system must never 

be cleaned with caustic soda.

There is a risk of damage to 

aluminium parts.

Important

!

41

Internal cleaning

Removing oil and grease

- If possible, run the engine until it has reached operating temperature and 

then drain the cooling system.

- Remove the thermostats.
- Fill the system with clean, hot water mixed with liquid dishwasher 

detergent designed for household use.

Concentration 1% (0.1/10 l).

- Run the engine until warm for about 20-30 minutes. Do not forget the 

cab heating system (if fitted).

- Drain the cooling system.
- Fill the system again using clean, hot water and run the engine for about 

20-30 minutes.

- Drain the water from the system.
- Refit the thermostats.
- Top up the system with new coolant according to the specification on 

page 35.

Removing deposits

- If possible, run the engine until it has reached operating temperature and 

then drain the cooling system.

- Remove the thermostats.
- Fill the system with clean, hot water mixed with some of the radiator 

cleaning agent available on the market which is based on sulphamic acid 

and contains dispersing agents. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions 

for the concentration and cleaning period.

- Run the engine for the specified time and then drain the cooling system.
- Refill the system with hot water and run the engine for about 

20-30 minutes.

- Drain the water from the system.
- Refit the thermostats.
- Top up the system with coolant according to the specification on 

page 35.

When handling cooling system 

detergent:

read the warning text on the 

containers.

Use a container to avoid spills 

when changing the coolant.

Dispose of used coolant through 

an authorised waste disposal 

contractor.

WARNING

!

Help protect our 

environment!

42

Air cleaner

8. Daily:

Test reading of vacuum indicator

If the red indicator bar is entirely visible, change or clean the air cleaner filter 

element, point 10. This is particularly important if the engine is run at high 

loads and high speed.

9. Every 200 hours:

Cleaning the air cleaner’s coarse 

cleaner

1.

Remove the cover from the coarse cleaner (2).

2.

Remove the conical coarse separator. Empty out the particles of dirt and 

clean it.

3.

Fit the coarse cleaner as shown in the figure and screw the cover into 

place.

10. Every 1,200 hours:
Cleaning or changing filter element

Note:

Clean or renew the filter element earlier if the vacuum indicator 

shows red.

Dismantling

1.

Remove the cover from the air cleaner.

2.

Renew or clean the filter element.

Note:

There is always a risk that the filter element will be damaged 

during cleaning. The filter element can only be cleaned a 

maximum of four timesAfter cleaning, it has poorer dust 

capacity than a new filter element.

3.

Mark the filter when it has been cleaned.

Cleaning the filter element

- Carefully blow the filter element clean using dry compressed air from 

the inside.

Note:

This filter element must not be washed with water.

1.

Cover

2.

Filter element

3.

Filter house

Only use genuine Scania air 

filters.

Renew the filter element if it is 

damaged.

Danger of engine damage if the 

filter element is damaged.

Never start the engine without 

the air filter.

There is a risk of injury or 

engine damage.

1

2

3

The coarse cleaner must always 

be fitted in an upright position.

1.

Filter element

2.

Coarse cleaner

3.

Cover

4.

Vacuum indicator

4

3

2

1

Important

!

Important

!

WARNING

!

43

Check

- Insert a torch into the element and check from the outside that there are 

no holes or cracks in the filter paper.

- Renew the filter element if it has the slightest damage. Danger of engine 

damage.

Assembly

1.

Assemble the air cleaner in reverse order.

2.

Reset the vacuum indicator by pressing the button.

11. Every 2,400 hours:
Changing safety cartridge

Note:

Not all filters are equipped with a safety cartridge. When 

changing the safety cartridge, take great care to ensure that no 

dirt or other impurities can get into the engine.

1.

Remove the cover from the air cleaner.

2.

Remove the filter element.

3.

Remove the safety cartridge.

4.

Fit a new genuine Scania safety cartridge.

5.

Renew or clean the filter element, see point 10.

6.

Assemble the air cleaner.

1. Safety cartridge

Air cleaner with safety cartridge

1

Do not remove the safety 

cartridge unnecessarily.

Important

!

Never clean the 

safety cartridge.

Important

!

44

Fuel system

12. Daily:
Checking fuel level

- Top up with fuel if necessary.
- If the tank has been run dry, bleed the fuel system, see point 13.

13. Every 1,200 hours:
Renewing the fuel filter

Fuel tanks

- Drain any water from the fuel tanks.

Filter

The filter consists of a filter unit.

- Wash the outside of the filter and unscrew it. Discard the filter according 

to environmental requirements.

- Fit the new filter and tighten it by hand.

Never use tools for this. The filter could sustain damage, obstructing 

circulation.

- Bleed the fuel system as described below.
- Start the engine and check for leaks.

Water separating filter

- Drainage must be carried out when filling fuel.
- The filter must be changed at the same renewal interval as the main 

filter.

- Close the cock (1) upstream of the filter.
- Unscrew the container and drain valve (3).
- Unscrew and change the filter (2). Lubricate the seal before tightening 

the new filter by hand.

- Screw the container and drain valve into position.
- Open the cock (1).
- Bleed the fuel system after renewing both filters.

Use a container to avoid spillage 

when bleeding and renewing 

components.

Use only genuine Scania fuel 

filters.

1.

Shut-off cock

2.

Filter

3.

Drain valve

Observe the utmost cleanliness 

when working on the fuel 

system.

There is a risk of engine 

malfunction and damage to the 

injection equipment.

Important

!

Important

!

Help protect our 

environment!

45

Bleeding the fuel system

- Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleed nipple (1) to channel fuel into a 

container. The bleed nipple is located at the end of the fuel manifold at 

the front of the engine.

- Open the bleed nipple.
- Pump the hand pump (2) until fuel without air bubbles flows out of the 

opened bleed nipple.

• If the system is completely empty, it will take approximately 

250 strokes.

• After renewing the fuel filter, it will take approximately 170 strokes.

• Approximately 150 strokes are required to bleed the fuel manifold.

- Close the bleed nipple and remove the hose.
- Undo the banjo screw for overflow valve (3) slightly. Pump the hand 

pump an additional 20 strokes until the overflow valve opens.

If the engine fails to start after bleeding:

- Open the bleed nipple again and pump the hand pump until fuel 

without air bubbles flows out.

- Tighten the bleed nipple. Start the engine and check for leaks.

1

2

3

Use a container to avoid spillage 

when bleeding and renewing 

components.

Help protect our 

environment!

46

Electrical system

14. Every 200 hours:
Checking the electrolyte level in 

batteries

1.

Unscrew the plugs and check the electrolyte level in all cells.

2.

Top up with distilled water until the level is 10-15 mm above the plates.

15. Every 1,200 hours:
Checking state of charge in batteries

- Check the density with an acid tester.

In a fully-charged battery it should be:

1.280 at +20°C

1.294 at 0°C

1.308 at -20°C

- If the density is below 1.20, the battery must be charged. A discharged 

battery freezes at -5°C.
Do not boost charge the battery. This will damage the battery in the 

long run.

16. Every 1,200 hours:
Cleaning batteries

1.

Clean batteries, cables and cable terminals.

2.

Check that all cable terminals are firmly tightened.

3.

Grease the battery terminal posts and cable terminals with Vaseline.

Wear gloves and protective 

goggles when charging and 

handling batteries.

The batteries contain a highly 

corrosive acid.

Do not connect the terminals 

incorrectly.

This can cause serious damage 

to the electrical system.

If the terminals are shorted, 

sparking will occur.

Avoid naked flames or sparks 

near the batteries.

When the batteries are charged, 

oxyhydrogen gas is formed 

which is flammable and 

explosive.

WARNING

!

WARNING

!

WARNING

!

47

Renewing the battery

Removing

1.

Disconnect the negative cable (-) from the battery (cable connected to 

earth).

2.

Disconnect the positive cable (+) from the battery (cable connected to 

starter motor).

Fitting

1.

Connect the positive cable (+) to the battery (cable connected to starter 

motor).

2.

Connect the negative cable (-) to the battery (cable connected to earth).

17. Every 1,200 hours:
Checking coolant level monitor

(Optional equipment)

1.

Start the engine.

2.

Lower the coolant level in the expansion tank.

3.

Automatic stop in the event of a fault: The engine stops, the indicator 

lamp comes on and the buzzer (if fitted) sounds if there is no fault in the 

level monitor. If the function is connected via the coordinator, the 

emergency stop fault code will be generated and can be read off on the 

diagnostics lamp.

4.

No automatic stop in the event of a fault: The indicator lamp comes on 

and the buzzer (if fitted) sounds if there is no fault in the level monitor.

5.

Top up coolant to the correct level, see page 36.

Do not connect the terminals 

incorrectly.

This can cause serious damage 

to the electrical system.

If the terminals are shorted, 

sparking will occur.

Dispose of used batteries 

through an authorised waste 

disposal contractor.

2-pin level monitor installed in the 

expansion tank for radiators 

supplied by Scania

Use a container to avoid spills 

when draining the coolant.

Dispose of used coolant through 

an authorised waste disposal 

contractor.

WARNING

!

Help protect our 

environment!

Help protect our 

environment!

 

 

48

+ -

Miscellaneous

18. Every 1,200 hours:
Checking drive belt

- If the drive belt (1), which is a poly-V belt, is worn or damaged it must 

be renewed.

- Also check that the automatic belt tensioner (2) is in proper working 

order and keeps the drive belt correctly tensioned.

- On installations with dual belt circuits, the second belt circuit has two 

drive belts with one manual belt tensioner. These drive belts should be 

tensioned to 20 Nm ±2 Nm as illustrated.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Content      ..     1      2      3      4      ..