9-12
Chapter 9 Brakes
13 Installation is the reverse of removal. Fit
the metal line to the proportioning valve
before attaching the brake hose bracket to
the upper frame rail.
14
Bleed the brakes (see Section 11). Care-
fully test brake operation before resuming
normal operation.
10 Brake hoses and lines -
inspection and replacement
1
Whenever the vehicle is raised and sup-
ported securely on jackstands, the rubber
hoses which connect the steel brake lines with
the front and rear brake assemblies should be
inspected for cracks, chafing of the outer
cover, leaks, blisters and other damage. These
are important and vulnerable parts of the
brake system and inspection should be thor-
ough. A light and mirror will be helpful for a
complete check. If a hose exhibits any of the
above conditions, renew it immediately.
Flexible hose replacement
Refer to illustration 10.3
2
Clean all dirt away from the hose fit-
tings.
3
Using a flare-nut wrench, disconnect the
metal brake line from the hose fitting (see
illustration). Be careful not to bend the frame
bracket or line. If the threaded fitting is cor-
roded, spray it with penetrating oil and allow
it to soak in for about 10 minutes, then try
again. If you try to break loose a fitting nut
that's frozen, you will kink the metal line,
which will then have to be replaced.
4
Remove the brake hose from the
bracket (some are secured to a bracket with
a retaining
clip,
others have an integral
bracket/fitting). Detach the brake hose from
the bracket or bracket from the vehicle as
applicable. Immediately plug the metal line to
prevent excessive leakage and contamina-
tion. Note: On 1998 and later models with
ABS, see Section 9 for rear brake hose-to-
proportioning valve separation.
5
On the rear brake hose(s), use a flare-
nut wrench to loosen the hose fitting at the
wheel cylinder and remove the hose.
6
On the front brake hose(s), unscrew the
banjo bolt at the caliper and remove the
hose, discarding the sealing washers on
either side of the fitting.
7
Attach the new brake hose to the caliper
or wheel cylinder as applicable. Note: When
replacing the front brake hoses, always use
new sealing washers. Tighten the banjo bolt
or tube nut to the torque listed this Chapter's
Specification Section.
8
Insert the other end of the new hose
through the bracket or loosely attach the fit-
ting/bracket to the vehicle as applicable mak-
ing sure the hose isn't kinked or twisted.
Then fit the metal line to the hose (or hose fit-
ting), tighten the hose bracket (if applicable)
and tighten the brake tube fitting nut to the
torque listed this Chapter's Specifications.
10.3 Disconnecting the front brake hose
from the metal brake line using a
flare-nut wrench
9
Carefully check to make sure the sus-
pension or steering components don't make
contact with the hose. Have an assistant
push down on the vehicle while you watch to
see whether the hose interferes with suspen-
sion operation. If you're replacing a front
hose, have your assistant turn the steering
wheel lock-to-lock while you make sure the
hose doesn't interfere with the steering link-
age or the steering knuckle.
10
After installation, check the master
cylinder fluid level and add fluid as neces-
sary. Bleed the brakes (see Section 11).
Carefully test brake operation before resum-
ing normal operation.
Metal brake lines
11
When replacing brake lines, be sure to
use the correct parts. Do not use copper tub-
ing for any brake system components. Pur-
chase steel brake lines from a dealer parts
department or auto parts store.
12
Prefabricated brake line, with the tube
ends already flared and fittings installed, is
available at auto parts stores and dealer parts
departments. These lines are also sometimes
bent to the proper shapes. If it is necessary to
bend a line, use a tubing bender to prevent
kinking the line.
13
When installing the new line make sure
it's well supported in the brackets and has
plenty of clearance between moving or hot
components. Make sure you tighten the fit-
tings securely.
14
After installation, check the master
cylinder fluid level and add fluid as neces-
sary. Bleed the brakes (see Section 11).
Carefully test brake operation before resum-
ing normal operation.
11
Brake system - bleeding
Refer to illustration 11.9
Warning: Wear eye protection when bleeding
the brake system. If the fluid comes in con -
11.9 When bleeding the brakes, a hose is
connected to the bleed screw at the
caliper or wheel cylinder and then
submerged in clean brake fluid - air
will be seen as bubbles exiting
the tube (all air must be expelled
before moving to the next wheel)
tact with your eyes, i mmediately rinse them
with water and seek medical attention.
Note: Bleeding the brake system is necessary
to remove any air that's trapped in the system
when it's opened during removal and installa-
tion of a hose, line, caliper, wheel cylinder or
master cylinder.
1
If a brake line was disconnected only at
a wheel, then only that caliper or wheel cylin-
der must be bled.
2
On conventional (non-ABS) brake sys-
tems, if air has entered the system due to low
fluid level or master cylinder replacement, all
four brakes must be bled. Warning: If this
has occurred on a model with an Anti-lock
Brake System (ABS), or if the lines to the
Hydraulic Control Unit or Integrated Control
Unit (1998 models) have been disconnected,
the vehicle must be towed to a dealer service
department or other repair shop equipped
with a DRB Il scan tool to have the system
properly bled.
3
If a brake line is disconnected at a fitting
located between the master cylinder and any
of the brakes, that part of the system served
by the disconnected line must be bled.
4
Remove any residual vacuum from the
brake power booster by applying the brake
several times with the engine OFF.
5
Raise the vehicle and support it securely
on jackstands. Note: The wheels do not have
to be removed for this process.
6
Remove the master cylinder reservoir
cover and fill the reservoir with brake fluid.
Reinstall the cover. Note: Check the fluid
level often during the bleeding operation and
add fluid as necessary to prevent the fluid
level from falling low enough to allow air bub-
bles into the master cylinder.
7
Have an assistant on hand, as well as a
supply of new brake fluid, an empty clear
container, a length of clear plastic or vinyl
tubing to fit over the bleed screw and a box-