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run substantial wires (with suitable fuses) from the contacts on the relays to the headlights. Thus you operate only these
new relays with the original wiring, switch, and main/dip relay, and the serious current for the headlights themselves
takes a much more direct route from the battery/alternator through the contacts in the new relays straight to the bulbs.
This mod only requires the locating of relays and running a serious cable from the terminal on the firewall to whereever
the relays are; this author used a 4 gauge, but a 6 gauge cable would actually be enough. The relays should be mounted
somewhere near the headlights to minimize wire length; perhaps within the boxes directly behind the headlights
themselves. John Napoli suggests a big fuse in that cable, since the relays are likely to be located out at the front corner
of the car and may be shorted by a relatively minor collision, and the shorting of such a major cable may cause serious
problems.
Technically, you can do this whole job with only two relays, one for low beam and one for high beam, but it may be
preferable to use two for high beam to keep from overloading the contacts on a standard 30-amp relay. Note that
simply wiring two relays in parallel may not have the desired effect of doubling the contact capacity, since one will
always close a millisecond before the other and thereby take all of the arcing load. A much better idea is to separate the
wiring to the high beams and have each relay handle half the headlights. That way, each relay will only see half as
much load, and if one circuit fails it only kills half your high beams rather than all of them.
Of course, you’ll probably want to install a relay for the fog/driving lights as well.
Having four individual fuses on circuits that operate nothing but relays is definitely overkill. On the XJ-S, it makes
more sense to continue to use the existing headlamp fusebox to serve the headlights themselves, so the relays should be
wired into the circuits before the fuses. On the ‘83, the headlamp fusebox can be fiddled with by drilling out the two
rivets that attach the mounting bracket to the fenderwell. The bracket isn’t welded to the flange on the edge of the
engine compartment, just folded over it. Removing the rivets allows the bracket to be lifted away, which in turn allows
the fusebox itself to be turned over and the wiring rearranged. You can reinstall the bracket with a couple of screws,
making it easy to work on in the future. Later cars have all sorts of variations in the fusebox in this area, but any of
them can be altered as necessary.
Tip for those with the 4-headlight system: The existing wiring from the fusebox to the high beams on each side of the
car is inadequate for both high beams, but it’s good enough for one. So, one possibility is to run a new wire (about 12
gauge) to each side of the car with a new inline fuse for one of these high beams and reuse the existing wiring and fuse
holder for the other high beam. The small wire from the 3-prong connector right behind the headlights to the headlight
that’s getting a new wire should be tied back into the other headlight at the socket, so that both of these skinny little
wires are serving one headlight.
This type of reconnection requires popping the spade terminal out of the headlight socket, soldering the second wire to
it, and snapping it back into the socket. Each spade terminal has a little tang on the back that holds it into the socket, so
you need to insert a pointy object between the plastic and the terminal itself to depress this tang to remove the terminal.
You will also want to bend this tang back into position before pushing the terminal back into the socket, so it securely
snaps into place.
Of course, when done changing which fuse serves which headlamp you will probably need to revise the fuse sizes in
the headlamp fusebox. It’s easy enough to divide the wattage of each headlight by 12 volts to determine the amps that
it will draw, and install a fuse suitably sized to serve.
On the other hand, it might be easier to forget all that fiddling with the original fusebox and wiring and simply remove
the fusebox in entirety and throw it away and run wires directly from the relays to the headlights with inline fuses, and
install an inline fuse for the electric fan. If your car is old enough to have the round tube fuses, this isn’t a bad idea;
those things make lousy connections and are always corroding and getting intermittent. The later style fuseboxes with
the plastic fuses are better. You could, of course, install a generic fusebox that serves all your new headlight and fan
wiring for a neat installation.
Be sure to provide adequate ground wires on the headlights as well. That’s easy to do, by either adding additional
wires or just replacing the ground wires entirely and connecting the new wires to a screw into the chassis, of which
there are several handy right around the headlights.