Jaguar XJ-S. Manual - part 49

 
 

191

Gano Filter Company 
1205 Sandalwood Lane 
Los Altos, California  94024 
+1 (650) 968-7017 

This company makes a filter that is essentially a conical screen in a tube.  The basic model is a clear plastic tube so you 
can see the filter getting crudded up and know when to take it out and clean it, but some people don’t like plastic so 
they offer a brass tube model as well.  They also claim that the screen is made of the same copper alloy as the radiator 
itself, so it also serves as a monitor for corrosion.  And they point out that merely having the clear tube can provide 
considerable information on what is going on in the cooling system. 

The filter comes in three sizes, and of course they expect most customers to buy one per car.  The V12 has two upper 
radiator hoses, though, so you will need two filters.  The hoses are 1-1/4” ID, which corresponds to Gano’s “small” size 
filter. 

If you’re worried about flow rates through those screens, Damrel suggests using the next size up Gano filter, the 
“medium” size filter.  “I made up a couple of custom hoses and put the old hose over the radiator and thermostat 
housing nipples to make up the difference.”  This author uses the small Gano filters with no problem, but it certainly 
couldn’t hurt to be using the next larger size. 

Gano filters do a great job of keeping the radiator clean, but they must be cleaned out periodically to keep from 
becoming obstructions themselves.  Removal, cleaning, and reinstallation is a snap, except that it requires draining 
about one gallon of coolant and replacing it afterward.  If you have the later XJ-S with no radiator drain, this could 
prove a pain.  So, if you have the radiator out to be rodded (!) it’s suggested you have a drain port added.  Another 
option might be to install a fitting in the lower radiator hose to facilitate easier draining.  An even better idea might be 
to tee into the heater hose at the bottom left corner of the radiator, install a short hose out the bottom of the car and put a 
plug in the end. 

Even if you have an earlier car with a drain valve, periodic cleaning could prove messy and wasteful of coolant.  Hence, 
the idea presented in the section starting on page 194 of providing a fitting with a piece of hose with a plug at the end is 
recommended.  This makes it very convenient to just drain a gallon into a clean jug, service the Gano filters, then put 
the gallon right back in. 

Tony Glavocich points out that the clear Gano filters can be helpful in diagnosis:  “If you have Gano filters, you might 
just tie some white string to the screen filter, then you can monitor when the stats are opening.  That is how I discovered 
my problem.  I was also able to see a difference in flow between the two sides by observing the string.  The string thing 
is something that I would suggest to anyone with Gano see-through filters.” 

One final note on Gano filters:  Don’t get ripped off on the internet.  Apparently somebody named Robert Fornof in 
California registered the URL http://www.ganofilter.com and claims to be an “authorized distributor” while selling 
Gano filters for considerably more than Gano sells them for.  It’s cheaper to use the telephone and call Gano direct. 

Peter Smith says, “I have found another source of coolant filters here in Oz and apparently they are exported to USA & 
UK.  The manufacturer is 

 Tefba 
 

122/124 Silverdale road 

 

Silverdale NSW Australia 2752 

 

Phone:  02 4774 2022 

 

Fax: 

02 4774 2777 

“It consists of a black nylon moulded body which resembles a jam jar approx. 2 inches (50mm) diameter by 2 inches 
high.  It has a screw lid and the inlet and outlet pipes come in at base level such that the side elevation resembles an 
inverted "T".  When you unscrew the lid you look down inside and see a stainless steel filter screen placed across the 
flow path of the coolant.  The filter screen is bent to form a delta shape or arrow head pointing in the direction of the 
flow. This provides a filter element size effective of  approx. 6 square inches.  The filter mesh hole size is about twice 
the size of the tea strainer we have in the kitchen. 

 
 

192

“I have installed two of these on my XJC and they look pretty neat.  It is easy to check the screens by undoing the 
screw tops and there is a spigot which is attached to a disc which sits at the bottom of the pot. You use this spigot as a 
handle which lifts out the disc with the screen sitting on top plus the crap. 

Here are a couple possible sources for Tefba filters: 

 

http://carbitz.org/

 

 

http://www.babymall.com.au/tefba/

 

There have been at least three significant issues discovered with the Tefba filters.  The first is that the element didn’t 
come all the way up to the cap; when the cap was screwed on tight, there was a gap between the top of the screen and 
the bottom of the cap.  Debris -- especially debris that floats -- could thus circumvent the screen and enter your radiator. 

Ashcroft also found an easy fix for the Tefba elements being too short:  “the element does end about 3/16" below the 
cap, but the disc is about 5/16" below the in/outlet.  I just put a 3/16" thick O-ring under the disc, raises the screen to the 
cap.”  Chip Wikan adds, “a trip to the local Advance Auto Parts found an O-ring, part # 64630.1, dimensions 30mm x 
36mm x 3mm which elevates the "grudge" tray perfectly flush with the top of the filter.” 

This author went a bit farther and fashioned a thin strip of stainless steel sheet metal into a wavy shape and set it in the 
bottom of the housing before dropping in the tray with the screen on it.  This bit acts as a spring that holds the element 
against the cap.  One must be careful to shape the sheet metal so no edges dig into the plastic. 

The second issue is that the screen is clearly shown to be formed into a V shape in the exploded view diagrams, but the 
one actually delivered in the filter is merely warped into a U shape.  In operation, this U shape can be blown up against 
the outlet side of the housing.  Ken Gray reports:  “I decided to check mine after doing the equivalent of 6 or so Italian 
tuneups (testing the newly installed Crane system).  I found a distinct dish in the filter elements exactly the same shape 
as the exit hole.” 

If this happens, the effective screen area is reduced from the entire screen down to just the portion covering the outlet 
itself -- and if there’s any debris in there to speak of, flow is nearly entirely cut off, perhaps quite suddenly.  This is bad. 
 It is therefore imperative that all Tefba users carefully fold their screens into a crisp V shape as shown in the diagrams, 
which will prevent any such disasters. 

The third issue is that the screen doesn’t sit properly against the bottom of the tray, which can allow crud to slip under 
the screen and into the radiator.  This problem may be made worse by folding the screen into the crisp V shape.  The 
recommended fix is to carefully cut notches in the edge of the plastic tray until the screen sits against the bottom as it 
should. 

Despite all these issues, the Tefba filter has proven to be the item of choice.  All three problems are easily rectified once 
you know about them, and since you are reading this book, you know about them.  By installing the Tefba filters in the 
highest horizontal portion of each upper radiator hose, owners have found that they can check the screens without 
draining any coolant first -- and so have taken to checking them once a week, rendering the fact that they are not clear 
so you can see crud buildup a moot point.  The only remaining complaint about the Tefbas is that the cap sometimes 
becomes really difficult to get loose, which some owners blame on the lack of lubricity of the long-life coolant.  
Applying a little water pump lubricant or some such to the threads might help some, but you might also consider this 
when installing and arrange the filter such that you can get a big pair of pliers or an oil filter wrench onto the cap.  And, 
of course, don’t overtighten the caps; Don Buresh suggests it’s like installing an oil filter, “go 1/4 turn past seated and 
no more, otherwise it will be a real bear to get off.” 

One other nice thing about Tefba filters: somebody out there must be listening, because many of the problems seem to 
be getting fixed.  The later models reportedly come from the manufacturer with a stainless steel spring attached to the 
bottom of the tray to hold the screen up against the lid.  And Richard Francis reports that the screen has been fixed, too: 
 “Today's Tefba's are delivered with a stronger screen...shaped like a baseball field backstop...very difficult to bend and 
smaller holes.” 

Unlike with the Gano filters, there is no benefit to getting the Tefba filters to fit a larger hose.  With the Tefba, you get 
the same size container with the same screen in it, it just has bigger fittings on it. 

 
 

193

There are yet other sources of coolant filters.  John Goodman says, “I noticed on the AC Delco website they have 
screw-on coolant filters (like oil filters).  Paper filter with mesh so if they do clog up the paper busts leaving the slightly 
coarser mesh to still catch the big bits...” 

There’s another product made in Australia by: 

  Coolfilter 

Australia 

  151 

Bushmead 

Road 

  Hazelmere 

WA 

6055 

Unfortunately, one customer had problems with the Coolfilter product.  “It consists of a conical plastic material which 
has a series of steps.  The idea is you cut it off at the appropriate shoulder to suit the ID of your hose.  I fitted new hoses 
and the there was no appropriate shoulder; one shoulder was too big and caused the filter to buckle and the next 
shoulder too small.  The step sizes go from 1.1" to  1.3".  The new hoses I have are 1.2" ID.  The Coolfilter is very 
flimsy and cannot push the hose out to accommodate the 1.3" step and of course the 1.1" step is too loose. 

“Also, I believe the holes are too large (tea leaves would go straight thru), it would only filter out large particles.  The 
Coolfilter has slots which are 13mm long by 1.5mm wide tapering down to 1mm. The slots are in between each size 
step and running lengthwise.  I have run the vehicle with the Coolfilters installed (as best as achievable) for about 50 
kilometers and they have captured no crap at all.  Either I have a clean system or they pass the crap thru the slots and 
gaps created by the buckling of the OD.” 

Tom Bennett says, “Make your own filters!  I bought a couple of very fine mesh SS tea strainers, a little bit of cutting 
and shaping, ended up with 2 "chili" shaped strainers that fit into the top inlets of the rad.  Work great!  I open them up 
about once every 3 months, although the crud is getting less.  First time I looked, there was about a teaspoonful of crap 
in each!” 

You can look at some coolant filter installation photos at  

 

 

http://www.jag-lovers.org/xj-s/book/CoolantFilters.html

 

One easy mistake to make is to service the radiator now and worry about installing coolant filters later.  If you’re 
having your radiator rodded or replaced, you should go ahead and put in coolant filters now to protect it from the junk 
that’s still sitting in your engine waiting to get at it!  Don’t wait until after you reinstall the radiator and run the engine -
- in the first five minutes of running, a whole pile of crud will get pumped into your nice clean radiator.  Much of the 
crud in the cooling system is heavier than coolant, and so sits in low spots within the engine and won’t move unless the 
flow is really high -- but your radiator is plugged, so the flow is never high enough to move it.  Then you clean the 
radiator, and the first time the thermostats open there’s more coolant flow through the system than it’s seen in years!  It 
stirs up all the crud laying around and pumps it right into the radiator. 

Bob Gallivan:  “I bought these some months ago & finally got around to putting them in & already I can see what looks 
like a gray crud through the filter.  I'm sure that the new rad at this very moment is harboring this crap that has migrated 
there before I installed the filters.” 

Richard Damrel:  “Had my radiator rodded out in May of this year, now it seems to need it again according to my 
mechanic.  The radiator shop says it's not uncommon for a massive build-up of scale or corrosion to be transferred from 
the block to the radiator.  Seems to me that it should be much easier to change a few filters every now and then rather 
than pull the radiator twice a year.” 

Douglas Dahl:  “I had to have my radiator rodded right after I got the car (about 6,000 miles ago).  This last week, it 
was pulled again.  No Barr's leak is allowed within 50 yards of the beast and I put the Gano filters on this time.  I just 
ran it for less than five minutes and both filters seem to be completely clogged.  Tomorrow, after it cools, I will clean 
them out and see how long it takes to clog them again, and so it will go until they need no further cleaning.” 

A couple of owners have expressed concern that they will never be able to drive their cars for more than a few miles 
without having to clean coolant filters.  When first installed, it’s a good idea to check them within the first five minutes 
after the thermostats open, and continue to check them in relatively brief intervals until they look like they’re willing to 
remain unplugged for a while.  Rest assured, sooner or later you will get most of the crud out of the system and they 
will run clean for months at a time. 

 
 

194

 

HEATER HOSE FILTER:  Gano (see above) also offers a small filter assembly for installation in the line to the heater 
core, pointing out that the same crud that plugs radiators can also plug heater cores.  Your immediate reaction might be 
“Who cares?  If the heater core gets plugged, it doesn’t damage the engine.”  However, you might want to rethink that 
reaction.  The heater core getting plugged might not damage the engine, but it’d still be no picnic to fix. 

Unfortunately, the Gano heater hose filter assembly is only available in brass -- no clear plastic version offered -- and 
therefore must be disassembled to check for pluggage. 

On the plus side, you don’t need to get this item from Gano; it’s available in any hardware store!  All it requires is a 
pair of fittings for a 5/8” garden hose, and one of those hose washers with the built-in conical screen intended for 
supply hoses for washing machines and dishwashers. 

Garden hose fittings generally come in three flavors:  The plastic junk, the slightly better “corrogated” brass (made of 
brass sheet metal formed to shape), and high-quality fittings machined from solid brass.  Besides being considerably 
more durable, the solid machined brass items also typically have flats around both male and female fittings, making it 
much easier to tighten and loosen.  This being the US, most consumers are morons who buy the cheapest junk available 
and most retailers are also morons who cater to this stupidity rather than making the slightest effort towards educating 
their customers on why a better product is the wiser buy.  So, the solid machined brass items can be a little hard to find. 

Home Depot carries an excellent set.  Made by Nelson, item N-1558 B, “5/8" Brass Hose Repair -- Extra Heavy Duty 
Rod Brass” contains a male fitting, a female fitting, two SS worm screw hose clamps, and one rubber washer -- in other 
words, everything you need except that you’ll need to pitch the simple washer and install a screened washer instead.  
This set costs about $5, and the screened washers are perhaps 3 for $1.  With a little shopping you can actually find 
screened washers in two or three different screen grid sizes; the ones with the biggest holes are suggested -- the fine 
ones are really fine.  After screwing the two fittings together with this screened washer in the middle, just cut the heater 
hose between the engine and the heater valve and install this assembly with the clamps. 

Wal-Mart also sells the top quality machined brass items, believe it or not.  They offer the male and female fittings 
separately. 

Despite the temptation to use big wrenches on the flats on the machined brass fittings, be careful not to overtighten.  It’s 
not too difficult to cut right through the rubber outer circumference of the screened washer.  After all, the washer was 
designed for the fittings to be hand-tightened, so it’s really soft rubber. 

Cleaning this filter is easy, since you can easily install the fittings at the very highest point in the system and not even 
have to do any draining.  Just unscrew the two hose fittings from each other, clean out the screened washer, and 
reassemble.  In actual practice it often proves easier to loosen the hose clamps and remove the entire assembly for 
cleaning than to just unscrew the halves in place. 

Will the screen in the line reduce flow to the heater core?  Perhaps.  Here in FL, we couldn’t care less; any flow at all is 
enough, and most of the time we’d rather have less flow.  But you guys who live in the less habitable climates might be 
concerned about installing this screen.  I have this suggestion:  Install the screen assembly, and then when winter 
approaches unscrew the fittings and replace the screened washer with a normal hose washer.  That way, you get 
filtration in the summer, full flow in the winter.  With any luck at all, the filtration in the summer will take enough of 
the crud out of the system that there won’t be any pluggage during the winter. 

Such a screen installed in the heater line might actually save your radiator!  Since this essentially becomes a “bypass 
filter” arrangement, eventually this tiny screen should remove most of the crud circulating around the closed coolant 
circuit.  The only problem will be the crud that jams tubes in the radiator before ever going through the heater hose, but 
if you’re concerned you should be buying the radiator hose filters described above.  The other shortcoming is that, since 
this screen is so small, it’s likely you’ll have to clean it out a lot of times right after installing it until you get the system 
pretty well cleared up. 

 

RADIATOR DRAIN:  Up until somewhere around 1988, the XJ-S was fitted with one of the most obnoxiously 
overdesigned radiator drain cocks in automotive history: a metal drain valve at the bottom right corner of the radiator,