Handbook of Watch and Clock Repairs (1972)

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN

Chiming clocks

THE strike mechanism has been dealt with in Chapter

17 and so

in this chapter we will discuss the chime mechanism only.

Diagrammatic sketches of the principle of the mechanism are

shown in figures

77 and

78. There are many variations of this

layout but the basic principle remains the same.

Fig. 77. Wheel train.

A star wheel with four arms is attached to the cannon pinion.

The four arms represent the four quarters of an hour. One arm

is longer than the other three and it is this arm that is in use on

the hour.

As the star wheel moves round, the release piece is moved

causing the chime flirt to pivot on its arbor. As the chime flirt

moves it raises the strike flirt.

Secured to the arbor of the strike flirt is a detent with a hook

end. This hook engages with a pin on the face of the locking

wheel which prevents rotation of the chime train.

The strike flirt continues to rise until eventually the detent

releases the locking wheel. This sets the chime train in motion

but in the meantime the release piece has caused the chime flirt

to lift higher and as the chime warning wheel moves round it is

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CHIMING CLOCKS

133

arrested by the chime flirt catching the pin on the chime warning

wheel. The chime train is now stationary again.

This action takes place a few minutes before each quarter of

an hour and, like the strike mechanism, is known as the 'warning'.

The chime train remains stationary until the star wheel has

moved round to a position when the release piece has been lifted

to the highest point of the star wheel arm. The release piece then

drops and at that moment it is exactly a quarter of an hour.

The action of the release piece dropping causes the chime flirt

Fig. 78. Release mechanism.

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WATCH AND CLOCK REPAIRS

to fall which in turn releases the chime warning wheel and allows

the chime train to set in motion again. This time however there

is no interruption and the train is free to rotate. In doing so the

chime pin barrel is operated which in turn sets the hammer

assembly in motion.

Immediately the chime flirt falls the chime locking plate lifts

the strike flirt and holds the detent clear of the pin on the locking

wheel. In this position the chime hammers will continue to

function but in the meantime the locking plate is rotating. As it

does so it brings a cut-away portion into line with the pin in the

strike flirt and the strike flirt and detent drop. This causes the

detent to arrest the locking wheel and chiming then stops.

The length of the cam faces on the locking plate are in the

proportion of

3 and 4, each cam length representing that

number of quarters of an hour. Thus on the hour the locking

plate turns with its longest cam, representing four quarters, in

contact with the pin in the strike flirt. This allows the chime train

to rotate long enough for the hammers to strike the four quarters

prior to the hour strike being released.

Just before the pin in the strike flirt drops into the cut-away

portion of the locking plate, a pin in the locking plate engages

the strike flirt and lifts it high enough for the strike rack hook to

be released which releases the strike train. The strike flirt how

ever catches the pin in the strike warning wheel and arrests the

strike train until the full chime has been rung. The strike flirt then

drops into the cut-away portion of the locking plate and the

strike train is released without further interference.

Before dismantling the mechanism study it well. Cause it to

operate until you know the sequence of operations sufficiently

well to be able to assemble the parts without difficulty.

We will assume that the motion work and strike mechanism

have been removed and that the springs have been let down.

First, remove the parts from the back plate. Take off the

hammer rod assembly and the pin barrel assembly, then unscrew

the ratio wheel. Unpin the strike lifting lever. Unscrew the pallet

cock and remove the pallets.

CHIMING CLOCKS

135

Lay the movement on its back over a cardboard box and remove

the release piece, the strike flirt, the chime flirt and the chime

locking plate. The pillar nuts can now be removed and the front

plate lifted off.

As the barrels and flys are lifted out mark them with pencil for

identification: C

(chime) S (strike).

In a movement of this kind there are many points to oil. Those

which are common to all time-pieces have already been mentioned

but with the addition of the chime mechanism there are many

more.

To list them would be quite unnecessary as long as you

remember that any two surfaces rubbing together need lubrica

tion. This does not mean you are at liberty to exercise your skill

with an oil can. The same strict discipline concerning oiling applies

just as much with clocks as it does for watches.

When oiling the friction surfaces of the chime mechanism

the smallest drop of oil will be enough.

CHAPTER NINETEEN

Grandfather clocks

A S P R I N G - W O U N D clock derives its motive power from a

coiled spring but a grandfather clock is powered by weights

suspended from chains or lines of gut.

These weights provide a greater force than a clock spring, and

consequently they are able to overcome resistances which in a

spring-wound clock would cause the movement to stop.

This inevitably results in grandfather clocks functioning con

tinuously for periods far greater than are usually achieved by

spring-wound clocks.

Dirt, dust and lack of oil precipitate the rate of wear. It is a

fact that these clocks collect inside their cases an extraordinary

amount of dirt. With age, the oil partially evaporates and is partly

absorbed by dust. Eventually no oil is left and the moving parts

receive no lubrication.

The force of the weights continues to operate the clock and

wear is therefore accelerated on all friction surfaces. Eventually

this wear becomes so excessive that even the weights are unable

to overcome the resultant resistance.

Examination of a movement in this condition will disclose

badly worn pivots, elongated pivot holes, worn pallets and, quite

often, rusty steel parts.

However, before commencing the dismantling of a grandfather

clock, let us examine it in its case. Sometimes a fault can be found

and rectified without removing the movement from its case which

will set it in motion again. Make sure, of course, that the gut has

not broken allowing a weight to fall to the bottom, or that the

clock only needs winding.

The methods used to secure movements to their seat boards

are often very poor and are a constant source of trouble. The seat

board must be held rigid to the clock case and the clock move

ment must be held firmly to the seat board. The inertia in the

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GRANDFATHER CLOCKS

137

swinging pendulum tries to pull the movement first one way and

then the other and if the movement is allowed to remain insecure

it may upset the beat.

Make sure the hands are not catching any part of the dial and

are not fouling each other.

Inspect the gut lines for condition and freedom. The gut wears

with usage and becomes frayed. Sometimes the strands foul in the

movement. The lines should hang freely. If they are found to be

rubbing against the seat board, then the slot in the seat board

must be enlarged.

If when the preliminary inspection has been completed the

fault has not been found, the movement must be removed from

the case.

Remove the pendulum and the weights and withdraw the

movement complete with its seat board. Remove the seat board

from the movement. Pull out the collet pin and remove the hands.

Withdraw the dial pins at the back and remove the dial.

If the condition of the movement is bad it will have to be

brush-washed in an assembled condition before an inspection

can be carried out. In severe cases the movement has to be dis

mantled and cleaned and then assembled for inspection.

There is one further examination to be made before dis

mantling the movement and that is of the escapement. Most

grandfather clocks are fitted with the recoil type, so called because

of the reverse movement made by the escape wheel each time a

tooth has dropped from the pallets. It is the amount of drop from

each pallet that has to be checked. To do this we must first

make sure that there is no excessive shake in the pallet pivot

holes and the escape wheel pivot holes. If these pivots are

loose in their holes the drop of the escape wheel teeth will be

affected.

Inspect also the pallets and the crutch for tightness on the

arbor. Any looseness here will also effect the function of the

escapement.

Details of how to check the drop of the escape wheel teeth

will be found in Chapter

16.

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WATCH AND CLOCK REPAIRS

Check all pivot holes for wear and make a note of those that

need bushing.

The movement may now be taken to pieces, examined and

notes made of any repairs that are needed. The parts are then laid

out in readiness for cleaning.

There are a number of cleaning fluids that can be made up, all

of which do the job very well. A cheap and well tried one is to

mix four ounces of soft soap with two pints of hot water and add

two teaspoonsful of liquid ammonia. Any big hardware store

will supply the ingredients.

When making up the solution stir well to ensure that the soft

soap is completely dissolved. Pour in the ammonia last.

Allow the solution to cool. Place the components in a tray and

pour the solution over them until they are covered and leave them

to soak for twelve hours.

The parts are then lifted out, brush-washed in clean warm

water and dried in warm boxwood dust in a metal container held

over a spirit flame.

Steel parts that have become rusty can now be dealt with. Flat

pieces are best laid on a flat wood block and cleaned with the

finest grade of emery stick. The stick must be held flat and square

to the work and the grain must follow the length or contour of

the part being cleaned. Round parts and flat circular parts are

best held in the turns and cleaned whilst being spun.

If the rust on screws cannot be removed easily, then they are

best renewed.

Rusty pinions can be cleaned by using a folded piece of very

fine emery paper smeared with oil.

We can now go ahead and chalk-brush all the parts. A cleaning

brush with medium bristles will do for this operation. The pivot

holes are next to receive attention. The large holes are best

cleaned with chamois leather. Cut a tapered length and secure the

wide end in the padded jaws of a vice. Feed the narrow end

through the pivot hole to be cleaned and run the plate up and

down the chamois strip a few times.

The smaller holes are cleaned with pegwood. Insert a tapered

GRANDFATHER CLOCKS

139

pegwood stick in the hole, rotate the stick, withdraw it and shave

off the dirt removed from the hole. Repeat this until all the dirt

has been removed. After the pivot holes, make sure that all the

oil sinks are clean.

Now that all the parts have been cleaned and repaired the

Fig. 79. Wooden stand.

Fig. 80. Method of hanging weight.

movement is ready to be assembled and oiled. Take care to ensure

that all working parts have freedom of movement.

Secure the movement to its seat board and place it on a stand.

A simple wooden stand is illustrated in figure 79. Check the level

of the seat board in both directions with a spirit level. Adjust

ments can be made to bring the seat board horizontal by packing

small pieces of thin card underneath.

Some clocks have only one weight which is suspended on an

endless chain. Figure 80 shows the correct method of hanging the

weight.

Fit the pendulum, hang the weights and partly wind up the

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WATCH AND CLOCK REPAIRS

barrels. The beat has now to be checked. Move the pendulum

slowly to one side and watch the escape wheel. Immediately a

tooth drops note the angle of the pendulum. Move the pendulum

in the reverse direction and note the angle it makes when the next

tooth drops. The two angles should be the same.

If it is found necessary to move the pendulum further one way

than the other the crutch has to be bent slightly in the direction

of the greater angle.

Continue to adjust until the escape wheel teeth drop with the

pendulum swinging equally each side of the perpendicular centre.

It follows that if the seat board is set horizonally in its case, the

beat of the movement will remain correct.

The pendulum should be quite steady during its swing. If the

pendulum bob can be seen to turn, watch the movement of the

pendulum suspension spring in the slot of the suspension bridge.

The spring should be a tight fit. If the slot is too wide, this will

allow the spring to twist whilst the pendulum is in motion. If no

fault is found here, remove the spring and examine it. These

springs sometimes fracture at the point of flexing.

Check the striking mechanism for correct functioning. Fit the

dial and the hands and the movement is ready to be fitted in its

case.

Support the weights by holding the lines, release the clicks and

slowly lower the weights until all the line has been unwound from

the barrel drums. Remove the weights, lift off the pendulum and

coil the lines neatly.

Before fitting the movement into the case, you will do well to

give the case some attention. With the aid of a plumb-bob and

line check the case to see if it is upright, then with a spirit level

check to see whether or not the case is horizontal.

There are numerous ways of adjustment. A lot depends on

where the adjustment is needed and how much. Packing pieces

can be fitted underneath the case. Blocks can be inserted between

the clock and the wall to push the top of the case forward.

When these adjustments have been carried out lift the move

ment into the case and check the seat board for horizontal.

CHAPTER TWENTY

Carriage clocks

WHEN carriage clocks were made they were intended as travelling

clocks. The movement is encased in glass panels mounted in a

gilded frame. The clocks were supplied with a leather-covered

felt-lined wooden travelling case which was cut away at the front

to expose the dial. On top of the case was fitted a lid with a

spring-loaded snap fastener. Raising the lid exposed the escape

ment which operated on top of the movement. The lid also

Fig. 81. The cylinder escapement.

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CARRIAGE CLOCKS

143

provided access to the clock carrying handle. To gain access to

the hand-set and to wind the mainspring it was necessary to

remove the clock from its travelling case and open the glass

panelled door at the back. These clocks were made with either a

lever escapement or a cylinder escapement. Because the lever

escapement is dealt with in Chapter

10 we will concern ourselves

here only with the cylinder escapement as illustrated in figure 81.

The escapement consists of a balance, a cylinder and an escape

wheel.

Fig. 82. Cycle of movement.

The balance wheel fits over the upper end of the cylinder and

the teeth of the escape wheel pass through the cut-away portion

at the lower end of the cylinder.

By referring to figure 82 we can see the cycle of movement :

(a) The cylinder has just reversed direction and is commencing

a new swing.

(b) The tooth of the escape wheel is about to leave the cylinder.

(d) The cylinder has moved round and arrested the next tooth.

(e) The cylinder completes its swing.

Unlike the balance of the lever escapement, the balance of the

cylinder escapement is never free of the escape wheel in that the

escape wheel teeth are at all times in contact with the roller.

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WATCH AND CLOCK REPAIRS

The escapement is fitted to a platform which is mounted across

the two movement plates. This is known as a horizontal escape

ment, and provided the clock remains horizontal the poise of

the balance remains unaffected.

Because the escapement is positioned horizontally and the

wheel train operates in a vertical plane it is necessary to provide

a means of changing the direction of the motive power. This is

achieved by a contrate wheel, the teeth of which are cut at right-

angles to the rim of the wheel and engage with the leaves of the

escape wheel pinion.

This design is not good gearing practice and it frequently causes

trouble. The meshing of the contrate wheel with the escape wheel

pinion is critical and care must be exercised when making

adjustments.

The movement is held to the base of the case by screws inserted

up through the bottom. Removal of these screws permits the

withdrawal of the movement from the case.

The clock is dismantled in the normal way and made ready for

cleaning. Special attention must be paid to the steel parts that

are gilded, and to lacquered brass. Harsh brushing or the use of

an abrasive will destroy the finish.

Wash the parts in the cleaning fluid and use only a brush with

soft bristle after which all handling should be carried out using

tissue paper or a soft cloth.

The inside of the cylinder must be scrupulously clean. Cleaning

is best done with a tapered pegwood stick.

Any signs of wear on the cylinder lips are best eliminated by

fitting a replacement cylinder. The function of the escapement is

improved by burnishing the edges of the cylinder and the impulse

faces of the escape wheel teeth. The teeth are then cleaned with

a pith stick.

In the final stages of assembly check the end-shake of the

contrate wheel; it should be as little as possible.

Means of adjustment is provided in the form of a screw at the

back of the movement. The screw is held in position friction-

tight by a slotted block. If the screw has become loose, the block

CARRIAGE CLOCKS

145

must be removed and the slot closed. Now fit the platform and

tighten the screws so that they only just nip and then assemble

the escape wheel to the platform.

The depth of mesh between the contrate wheel and the escape

wheel pinion can now be checked. If the escape wheel pivot is

Fig. 83. Tools for removing cylinder plugs.

held by a piece of pegwood and the contrate wheel is rocked it is

possible with the aid of an eye-glass to see the depth of mesh.

An adjustment either way can be made by tapping the end of

the platform in the desired direction.

The screw holes in the platform are slightly oversize to permit

such adjustment to be made. When the depth of mesh is correct

the platform screws can be tightened.

By winding up the mainspring one or two clicks and setting

the wheels in motion an impression is obtained as to whether or

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WATCH AND CLOCK REPAIRS

not the depth of mesh needs any further adjustment. A noisy

contrate wheel is a definite indication of the mesh being too deep.

If the leaves of the escape wheel pinion are worn, a new surface

can be offered to the contrate wheel by raising the platform. Four

thin collars of equal thickness placed one under each corner will

be sufficient.

Fig.

84. Punching out bottom plug.

Now fit the balance and wind the mainspring up a little more.

Before carrying out any further checks on the escapement it is

necessary to find out if the height of the cylinder is correct in

relation to the escape wheel. From figure

82 it will be seen that

the escape wheel moves only when imparting an impulse to the

cylinder. If, however, the cylinder is too low, allowing the edge

of the cut-away portion to hit against the rim of the escape wheel,

a backward movement of the escape wheel can be seen.

To check this, hold the balance wheel in the tweezers and

slowly move it backward and forward through the normal angle

of swing and observe the reaction of the escape wheel.

If the cylinder is too low it can be raised by driving the bottom

plug out a little, and then driving the top plug in by the same

amount. The tools for this operation are illustrated in figure

83.

and the method is shown in figure 84. The stake illustrated has

five plain holes and three countersunk holes all of different sizes.

A countersunk hole is selected for size, the cylinder is placed

CARRIAGE CLOCKS

147

in the hole and the plug is partially driven out by the punch. To

completely remove the plug, the cylinder is transferred to a plain

hole the diameter of which will allow the plug to pass through.

We are now ready to check the locking of the escape wheel

teeth. Once again hold the balance wheel in the tweezers and

slowly lead it round until a tooth drops. At this point note the

position of the balance wheel. Now lead the balance wheel round

in the reverse direction and watch the escape wheel very closely.

Immediately the escape wheel starts to move stop the balance

wheel and note its new position. The total distance travelled by

the balance wheel should be 5 degrees.

To assist this check, some manufacturers punch three dots on

the face of the balance wheel, the two outside ones being 5 degrees

from the middle one.

Immediately a tooth drops, a mark can be made on the plate

underneath the centre dot. Then when the balance wheel is led

round to its second position it can be seen whether or not the

5 degrees is being achieved. If it is less, then the locking is

shallow and the cylinder needs to be brought closer to the escape

wheel.

To do this, the platform is removed from the movement and

the chariot screw underneath is loosened. The chariot is then

moved closer to the escape wheel and the screw tightened.

This check must be carried out to all the teeth and with both

inlet and outlet lips of the cylinder.

The next check is the shake of the teeth. Lead the balance wheel

into the position shown in figure

85, a. By holding the escape

wheel in tweezers try the shake between the points where the toe

of the trailing tooth touches the inlet lip and the heel of the

leading tooth touches the exit lip.

The balance is now moved into the position shown in figure

85, b. The internal shake can now be tried.

If the inside shake is the greater it is an indication that the

cylinder is too large, and if the greater movement occurs on the

outside of the cylinder then the cylinder is too small. The design

of the escapement will, however, permit a generous tolerance.

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WATCH AND CLOCK REPAIRS

Only if the inside shake is tight with a very loose outside shake

is it necessary to take rectifying action. The remedy is to renew

the cylinder by fitting one with a larger diameter.

Set in the rim of the balance wheel is a small banking pin which

is arrested by a larger pin fitted in the back of the balance cock.

The purpose of this pin is to prevent the balance wheel from

swinging through an angle greater than

180 degrees in either

direction. If the balance wheel exceeded this amount of swing it

would foul the escape wheel teeth and the movement would stop.

If the balance wheel pin is missing it should be replaced. If it is

worn, broken or bent it should be renewed otherwise there is the

danger of it trying to pass the pin in the balance cock and

becoming fast.

Fig. 85. Checking shake of escape wheel teeth.

CHAPTER TWENTY-ONE

Cuckoo clocks

THE popularity of cuckoo clocks has returned and today there

is a thriving market in Europe catering for the tourist trade.

These clocks are smaller and less complicated than the original

cuckoo clocks and they are less expensive. The originals are fast

becoming antiques and are being sought after by dealers.

It is the older type of clock we are going to discuss because

it is thought that an understanding of this mechanism will

Fig. 86. Rear view of bellows (see Fig. 87 for key).

149

Fig. 87. Strike and cuckoo mechanism without wheel train. A. Cannon

pinion. B. Lifting piece. C. Lifting arbor. D. Raising wire. E. Engaging

pin. F. Locking arbor. G. Fly wheel locking piece. H. Fly wheel pin.

J. Fly wheel. K. Hammer arbor. L. Bellows wire (short). M. Bellows

wire (long). N. Hammer pin. O. Pin wheel. P. Bellows pins. Q. Cuckoo

arbor. R. Cuckoo arbor pin. S. Cuckoo operating pin. T. Locking

wheel. U. Count wheel locking piece. V. Count wheel. W. Door wire.

X. Tip wire. Y. Bellows. Z. Pipe.

CUCKOO CLOCKS

151

undoubtedly result in a working knowledge of a more simple

movement.

Some clocks are weight driven and others are spring-wound

but the method of motive power has no influence over the

striking and cuckoo mechanisms which is all we are interested

in here.

The case is made of wood with a carved front, the whole being

roughly made. The cuckoo door is mounted above the dial and

two inspection doors are fitted one in each side of the case.

Cut in the top of each side is an opening through which can

b e h e a r d t h e s o u n d p r o d u c e d by t h e pipes.

At t h e b a c k of the case is a full-sized p a n e l t h a t c a n be lifted

off leaving an a p e r t u r e large e n o u g h for t h e wi t hdrawal of t h e

movement. On the inner face of the rear panel is mounted the

gong.

Figure 86 shows the back of the movement with the pipes and

bellows positioned on each side. The slot at the top of each pipe

is opposite the a p e r t u r e c u t in e a c h side of the case.

Before taking the movement from its case let us study the

illustrations and find out how the strike and cuckoo mechanisms

operate.

The key in figure 87 applies also to figures

86 a n d 88.

Attached to the rear of the cannon pinion A are two pins

diametrically opposite each other. These pins operate the lifting

piece Β on the hour and the half-hour.

The lifting piece Β is attached to one end of the lifting arbor C

and at the other end the raising wire D is attached. It follows then

that any movement of lifting piece Β is transmitted to raising

wire D.

Placed above the lifting arbor C is the locking arbor F.

Attached to this arbor is the engaging pin E, the fly wheel locking

piece G, the count wheel locking piece U, and the cuckoo

operating pin S all of which move together.

When the raising wire D is lifted it contacts the engaging pin Ε

and turns the locking arbor F.

Until now the hook at the end of the fly-wheel locking piece G

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WATCH AND CLOCK REPAIRS

has been resting in the recess of the locking wheel Τ and the

tongue at the end of the locking piece G has been arresting the

movement of the fly wheel pin H.

With the turning of the locking arbor F the lifting piece G is

going to be raised and in doing so the pin H is released allowing

the wheel train to function.

Almost immediately after, the pin H is again arrested this time

by the c r o o k in the raising wire D. This brief mo v e me n t of t he

wheel train is known as the 'warning'.

Fig. 88. Wheel train (See Fig. 87 for key).

CUCKOO CLOCKS

153

I n the me a n t i me the c a n n o n pinion h a s cont i nued t o r ot at e

and now the lifting pin moves clear of the lifting piece Β which

drops. It follows that the raising wire D must also drop and in

doing so the fly wheel pin Η is again released and the train of

wheels goes into motion.

Around the edge of the pin wheel Ο are seven pins spaced at

equal distances. As the wheel rotates the pins trip the bellows

pins Ρ causing the wires L and M to operate the bellows. The

same pins then carry on to trip the hammer pin Ν causing the

hammer to operate. Due to the angular movements of the hammer

and the bellows wires, the hammer strikes first followed by the

long bellows wire M sounding 'CUC' and finishing with the

short bellows wire L sounding 'ΚΟΟ'.

When the raising wire D dropped, the locking arbor F swung

round and caused the hook of the locking piece G to drop into

the recess in the locking wheel Τ but the wheel train was in

motion and therefore the cam action of the locking wheel Τ

raised the locking piece G again.

At the same time t h a t the locking piece G is being raised the

count wheel locking piece U is being lifted from one of the slots

cut in the rim of the count wheel V and the pinion on the end of

the pin wheel arbor is causing the count wheel V to slowly rotate.

The result of this action is that when the recess of the locking

wheel T again comes opposite the hook end of the locking piece G,

the hook end is prevented from dropping into the recess by the

locking piece U riding on the rim of the count wheel V.

The rim of the count wheel V is cut into eleven segments each

longer than its neighbour. The strike and cuckoo action will

continue to function for so long as the mechanism is kept in

operation by the locking piece U riding on a segment of the

count wheel V.

When the count wheel V has moved round to bring the next

slot opposite the locking piece U, the locking piece U will drop

causing the locking piece G to drop and the train of wheels will

then be arrested by the fly wheel pin H coming into contact with

the tongue on the end of locking piece G.

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WATCH AND CLOCK REPAIRS

When the locking arbor F turns, the lower end of the cuckoo

operating pin S moves inward, presses against the cuckoo arbor

pin R and turns the cuckoo arbor Q. This swings the cuckoo

forward and opens the door. When the cycle is complete, the

cuckoo returns under spring pressure and pulls the door shut by

means of the door wire W.

On top of the left-hand bellows is a tip wire X. When the

bellows operate, the tip wire is lifted and it contacts the underside

of the cuckoo lifting the cuckoo's tail up and lowering the head.

This rocking action causes the wings to spread and the beak to

open.

To take the movement out of its case the pipes and bellows

must first be removed. Lift off the pendulum or weights. Dis

connect the bellows wires. The pipes are secured by screws

passing through the sides of the clock case. Remove these screws

and the pipes can then be withdrawn complete with the bellows

which are glued to the top of the pipes. Put them in a safe place

away from possible harm.

Open the cuckoo door and disconnect the wire linking the door

to the cuckoo, and then remove the hands.

All that now remains is to remove the screws holding the

movement to the case and withdraw the movement.

The movement is dismantled and assembled as previously

described in Chapter

18. Cleaning is carried out by washing the

parts in a bath of cleaning fluid and then finishing with the chalk-

brushing method. The illustrations will assist in the assembly of

the strike and cuckoo mechanisms. To check their action after

assembly place the tip of the forefinger on the teeth of the fly

wheel and allow the wheels in the train to rotate slowly.

To repair a broken pipe or even to make a new one is quite

simple. The wood can be cut from a cigar box, shaped and glued.

Bind the pieces together with strands of wool until the glue is set.

When making a new one there are two things that require careful

attention ; the width of the air gap between the bellows and pipes

and the internal depth of the pipes. If either of these is incorrect

the tone or note of the pipe concerned will be affected.

CUCKOO CLOCKS

155

If the bellows are leaking the kid must be removed and a new

piece fitted. Fold the new piece using the original as a pattern.

Press the new piece so that the creases become permanent and

then glue into position.

The following amusing example of horological English was

found on the back of an old clock :

'Indication of the manner to serve Cuckoo Clocks.

At first one draw out the bellows with much circumspection

the paper and the cramps. Further it is necessary to remove the

iron-wire or the packthread which is fixed on the chain. If the

clock no strike correct it is necessary to open the small door

of the right side and to press of the visible wire. If the clock do

hang a little oblique, it is necessary, to bend the wire-sling

(which is visible under the case of clock and as hang the

pendulum) a little of the same side as hang oblique the clock.

By cuckoo clocks with sounding springs one draw the paper

much cautious out the springs. Moreover it is to remove the

fixed iron-wire upper the small door on the front of clock.

Cuckoo and Quail Clocks. As because the strike correct

the Quail, it is necessary to open the small door of the left side

from case of clock and to press of the visible iron-wire. If the

clock march too quick one push the sheave from pendulum

more upwards, if the clock march too slow one push and

sheave more downwards.'

CHAPTER TWENTY-TWO

French clocks

D υ Ε to the n a t u r e of F r e n c h clocks being show-pieces as well as

first-class time-pieces, extra care and trouble is expended during

cleaning.

Fundamentally the sequence is clean, wash, dry and polish.

The recommended cleaning agent is a liquid metal polish.

If this is applied with a stiff watch brush, a very fine finish can

be achieved.

Shake some metal polish into a shallow tin and dip the end of

the brush into it.

The part to be cleaned is held in the hand in a piece of soft

cloth such as an old handkerchief. Brush inside the bars of the

wheels with a side motion so that the grain will follow the

contour of the aperture.

Take extreme care not to knock the pivots with the brush

because apart from being very fine they are also quite hard and

easily snap off.

When brushing the teeth make sure that the brush movement

is m a d e square with the wheel to ensure t h a t the bristles reach the

base of the teeth. Be very meticulous with the gearing and round

the wheels two or three times.

When brushing the sides keep the brush movement always in

the same direction. Never cross the grain.

Plates and other flat pieces are similarly treated, the grain

always flowing with the length of the part.

To clean the oil sinks, place a hand-drill in t he vice a n d secure

in t he c h u c k a short length of pegwood shaped like a flat drill.

Cut a small square of chamois leather, smear it with a spot of

metal polish and place it over the oil sink. Bring the work up to

the pegwood stick and rotate the hand-drill at a good speed

causing the chamois leather to spin in the sink.

When all the brush work is finished, take a leather buff

156

FRENCH CLOCKS

157

(supplied for the purpose) smear a very little metal polish over its

surface and buff all the plates, bridge pieces, etc., retaining the

same direction of grain.

All these parts now have to be washed in a cleaning fluid. Lay

them in a pan of suitable size, pour the fluid over them and with

a 1/2-in. varnish brush remove every trace of the metal polish.

As each part becomes washed lift it out of the tray and lay it

on folded newspaper to absorb the surplus fluid. The parts are

then dried in a linen cloth.

Polishing is carried out with a soft watch brush charged with

billiard chalk. All the parts are brushed as before, but of course,

not so energetically, and for this operation they are held in tissue

paper.

The oil sinks are polished using the same method by which they

were cleaned only this time dry chamois leather is used.

Finally, all pivot holes, threaded and plain holes and pinion

leaves are cleaned out and rubbed over with a pointed pegwood

stick. When cleaning out the pivot holes the pegwood stick is

inserted at both ends and rotated. Any dirt on the stick after

withdrawal is shaved off and the stick is inserted again. This

process continues until all traces of dirt have been removed.

As each part becomes finished it is put in a box away from

dust.

Blued steel screws that have become marked should be restored

to their original condition. This is best done by spinning the

screw in a lathe. Remove the blueing and the marks with a dead-

smooth file, polish with a piece of very fine emery paper and

finish with a flat burnisher.

The screw head must not be touched by hand. Clean out the

screwdriver slot and remove the screw from the chuck with

tweezers.

There are two methods of blueing and preservation. One is to

place the screws on a blueing pan (Fig.

11) and move it about in

a spirit flame until the screw heads turn the right colour and then

tip them into a tray containing thin oil. The screws are then

washed in cleaning fluid.

CHAPTER TWENTY-THREE

Alarm clocks

THERE is a wide range of alarm clocks on the market especially

in the lower-priced models, and different methods of casing are

employed.

Before dismantling an alarm clock it will be necessary to study

the case to understand the design and method of assembly.

It is usual for the back of the case to be marked with arrows

to indicate the direction of turning the winding keys. The reverse

direction will unscrew them.

If the winding-click is broken any attempt to unscrew the key

will only result in the key and arbor turning together. To over

come this, some clocks have a slot machined in the outer end of

the spring arbor. A screwdriver is held in the slot and the arbor

held stationary while the key is unscrewed.

The hand-set button is usually a push-on fit and only needs a

straight pull to remove it. The alarm-set button is removed by

unscrewing it against the direction of setting the alarm.

Sometimes the threads of the feet pass through the case and

into the movement plate preventing the movement from being

withdrawn. Unscrew the feet by wrapping them in two or three

thicknesses of cloth and gripping them in pliers.

The round case is the most common type in the lower-priced

models. The bezel either pushes into the front of the case, or it

forms part of the case and the back pushes in from the rear.

Sometimes the back is held in position by three or four screws.

Having removed the external parts and opened the case, the

movement is now ready to be lifted out complete with dial and

hands.

The minute hand and the alarm hand can be removed by using

the lever shown in figure

10. Now bend back two of the tabs

holding the dial to the movement and remove the dial complete

with the hour hand and hour wheel.

159

160

WATCH AND CLOCK REPAIRS

Take care not to bend the dial tabs any more than is absolutely

necessary because they have to be bent again during assembly,

and too much bending will cause them to break off.

Cut off a short length of pegwood whose diameter will just fit

inside the hour hand. Support the dial in the left hand and place

the tip of the thumb and fingers between the wheel and the dial.

Push the pegwood punch into the hour hand and gently tap the

punch until the hour wheel and the hour hand separate.

It is unlikely that any work will have to be done on the dial

or hands and so, when they are free, put them in a safe place

away from the possibility of damage. If the hands and dial

numerals have been coated with luminous paint, extra care must

be taken during handling to prevent the paint from cracking.

Pull out the alarm wheel pin and remove the alarm wheel.

Before dismantling the movement, the escapement must be

examined. The majority of the lower-priced alarm clocks are

fitted with the pin-pallet type of escapement and it is therefore

necessary to read Chapter

10 in conjunction with this chapter.

If when checking the shake of the lever against the balance staff

it is found that the shake is unequal, the lever can be bent side

ways without removing it from the movement. A suitable tool for

this purpose can be easily made and is illustrated in Figure

89.

Having completed the inspection of the escapement, the balance

may now be removed. Pull out the balance spring pin from its

stud and guide the spring out of the stud and index pins. Slacken

off the upper balance bearing screw and remove the balance

from the movement.

With a pair of tweezers check the end-shake and side-shake

of the wheel train pivots and the pallet pivots. Any pivot holes

that have become enlarged should be noted. They can be dealt

with after the movement has been dismantled.

Fully wind the mainspring and the alarm spring and hold them

in this position by fitting spring clamps.

Place a piece of pegwood through the escape wheel and

operate the lever continuously until the pegwood prevents any

further rotation of the escape wheel.

ALARM CLOCKS

161

Slacken the plate nuts just enough to lift the lever from the

movement. Tighten the nuts, remove the pegwood from the

escape wheel and allow the wheel train to rotate until the spring

clamps prevent any further movement of the springs. When the

wheel train comes to rest, the plate may be removed and the

wheels lifted out.

Fig. 89. Tool for bending lever.

In many alarms the cannon pinion is a driving fit to the centre

arbor, and, once removed, may be always loose on the arbor.

It is better therefore to leave this undisturbed and clean the pivot

hole below the pinion by soaking and careful brushing.

Having dismantled the movement and laid out the parts

separately we can now continue with the inspection.

Examine the balance staff ends for wear. Usually it will be

found that the conical faces have worn away and produced a

ridge. To rectify this the balance spring must first be removed.

Mark the balance wheel to show the position of the collet. Make

a tool similar in shape to a watch screwdriver but with a longer

taper and push the blade into the slot of the spring collet.

A slight twist and pull made in one movement will remove the

collet and spring from the balance staff.

Fit the staff in the turns and with an Arkansas stone restore

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WATCH AND CLOCK REPAIRS

the conical face making sure that the original angle is not

destroyed. Burnish the new face and the point. Treat the other

end of the staff in the same way.

Examine the pallet pins for wear. If they need renewing the old

ones can be tapped out over a graduated stake. New pins can be

Worn pivot hole be

fore reaming.

Pivot hole after ream

ing, showing entry of

tapered bush.

Bush pressed into

position ready to be

filed to length.

Fig. 90. Fitting Bush to worn pivot hole.

made from sewing needles. Cut off a suitable length and tap the

new pin in position from the underside of the lever.

Enlarged pivot holes can now be dealt with by fitting new

bushes.

Bushes are supplied ready made. The pivot hole is drilled and

the outside diameter is machine tapered. Each bush is made

oversize in length.

A convenient m e t h o d of purchasing is to obtain from any

materials supplier a box containing bushes of assorted sizes.

Select a suitable bush and ream out the worn pivot hole

from the back of the plate until the diameter of the hole will

just allow the small end of the bush to enter. The bush can

then be pressed or tapped into position.

ALARM CLOCKS

163

When the bush is in tight both ends must be carefully filed

flush with the plate.

Finally the pivot hole is enlarged by reaming, to suit the size

of the pivot.

Examine the wheel train for broken teeth. New teeth can be

fitted as described in Chapter

6, but in place of brass pin-wire,

strip brass will probably be needed.

Examine the wheel pivots and if wear has taken place the

pivots must be polished and burnished in the turns.

Provided no other repairs have to be carried out we are now

ready to proceed with the cleaning. A tray will be required for

the cleaning fluid about two inches deep and large enough to take

the back plate. We will require some tissue paper, two cleaning

brushes, soft and medium, a 1/2-in. flat paint brush, pegwood, pith,

chalk, a piece of clean soft linen such as an old handkerchief and

some cleaning fluid.

Place one of the plates in the tray and pour the cleaning fluid

over it until it is covered. Brush it with the 1/2-in. brush and when

it is thoroughly clean remove it from the cleaning fluid and dry

it in the cloth. Treat the other plate in the same way.

The balance spring is held in the tweezers and gently washed

in the cleaning fluid by moving it about. When it is clean, lift it

out and place it between two pieces of tissue paper changing the

paper each time it becomes saturated.

Do not immerse the mainspring and the alarm spring in the

cleaning fluid because, in their wound condition, they will not

dry.

Wash, brush and dry all the remaining components in the same

way as was done for the back plate.

Take the cleaning brush with the medium bristles and charge

it with chalk. Rub it briskly over the faces of both plates. This

will produce a semi-polish which is less likely to attract dust.

Treat the wheels in the same way making sure that the spaces

between the teeth are clean.

Lay the balance spring on a piece of white paper. Take the

cleaning brush with the soft bristles and charge it with chalk.

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WATCH AND CLOCK REPAIRS

Hold the balance spring down with the tip of a finger and carefully

dab the bristles of the brush into the coils of the exposed portion

of the spring. Continue round until the complete spring has been

cleaned.

The pivots, pivot bearings and pinions now need attention.

Shave a point on the end of a piece of pegwood, insert it in the

pivot bearings and lightly rotate it. This will ensure that all

bearings are clear.

The point of the pegwood is now used to clean the pinions.

Run the pegwood up and down each leaf removing any dirt

that may be present.

The pivots are cleaned by pushing them into the end of a pith

stick and rotating the pith a few times.

Having cleaned and polished all the parts we are now ready

to assemble them.

Oil the ratchet wheels and clicks and fit them to the back plate.

Place the balance and lever to one side and assemble the remaining

parts to the back plate.

Lower the front plate into position gently guiding the pivots into

their respective bearings. Make quite sure the wheel train is free-

running, tighten down the front plate and again check the

freedom of the wheel train.

The lever may now be fitted by slackening the front plate nuts,

lifting the front plate slightly and inserting the lever into position.

Lower the front plate again, check the lever for freedom and

tighten the front plate nuts.

The mainspring may now be fully wound up and the clamp

removed. Check the action of the wheel train and the escapement

lever by operating the pallets a few times.

We are now ready to assemble the balance. Support the balance

wheel by placing the lower pivot in a stake. Place the collet on the

upper pivot and with a tubular punch gently tap the collet into

position. By inserting the tool previously mentioned in the slot

of the collet, the collet can be turned until it coincides with the

mark made on the balance wheel during dismantling.

The position for the collet on the staff is determined by the

Handbook of Watch and Clock Repairs (1972) - page 5