Rover 214-414. Service Repair Manual - part 3

29 Working in the sequence shown (see
illustration), progressively tighten the
camshaft bearing cap bolts by one turn at a
time until the caps touch the cylinder head
evenly. Now go round again, working in the
same sequence, and tighten all the bolts to
the specified torque setting. Work only as
described to impose the pressure of the valve
springs gradually and evenly on the 
bearing caps. Wipe off all surplus sealant so

that none is left to find its way into any
oilways.
30 Squirt clean engine oil into each camshaft
bearing cap oil hole, then fit new O-rings to
each of the oil feed tube stubs (see
illustration). Refit the oil feed tube to the
cylinder head and press it firmly into position
in the camshaft bearing caps.
31 Fit a new camshaft oil seal (see
illustration), then refit the cylinder head cover
and camshaft sprocket.
32 Refit the distributor.

K16 engines

33 Liberally oil the cylinder head hydraulic
tappet bores and the tappets. Note that if new
tappets are being fitted, they must be charged
with clean engine oil before installation.
Carefully refit the tappets to the cylinder head,
ensuring that each tappet is refitted to its
original bore and is the correct way up. Some
care will be required to enter the tappets
squarely into their bores.
34 Liberally oil the camshaft bearings and
lobes and refit them to the cylinder head.
Position each shaft so that its No 1 cylinder
lobes are pointing away from their valves.
With the shafts in this position, the roll pin in
the inlet camshaft’s right-hand end will be in
the 4 o’clock position when viewed from the
right-hand end of the engine, while that of the

exhaust camshaft will be in the 8 o’clock
position (see illustration).
35 Ensure that the locating dowels are
pressed firmly into their recesses, check that
the mating surfaces are completely clean,
unmarked and free from oil, then apply a thin
bead of special Rover sealant to the mating
surfaces of the camshaft carrier as shown
(see illustration). Carefully follow the
instructions supplied with the sealant kit. Refit
the carrier.
36 Working in the sequence shown (see
illustration), progressively tighten the
camshaft carrier bolts by one turn at a time
until the carrier touches the cylinder head
evenly. Now go round again, working in the
same sequence, tightening all bolts to the
specified torque setting. Work only as
described to impose the pressure of the valve
springs gradually and evenly on the carrier.
Wipe off all surplus sealant so that none is left
to find its way into any oilways.
37 Fit new camshaft oil seals, then refit the
cylinder head cover, inner timing cover
retaining bolts and camshaft sprockets.
38 Refit the distributor.
39 Refit the air intake duct support bracket,
tightening its screws to their specified torque
wrench setting, then reconnect and secure
the air temperature control valve vacuum pipe
and refit the rubber strap to secure the air
intake duct.

2A•16 Engine in-car repair procedures

11.36  Camshaft carrier bolt tightening

sequence - K16 engine

11.35  Apply thin bead of sealant to

camshaft carrier mating surfaces along

paths shown by heavy black lines - 

K16 engine

11.31  Fitting a new camshaft right-hand

oil seal - K8 engine

11.34  Camshaft roll pin locations at TDC

position for refitting camshaft carrier

(arrowed) - K16 engine

11.30b  Renew O-rings (arrowed) before

refitting oil feed tube - K8 engine

11.30a  Fill oil holes with clean engine oil -

K8 engine

11.29  Camshaft bearing cap bolt

tightening sequence - K8 engine

Note: Apply thin bead of sealant to end

bearing cap mating surfaces along paths

shown by heavy black lines

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

12 Valve clearances - 

general information

1 It is necessary for a clearance to exist
between the tip of each valve stem and the
valve operating mechanism. This allows for
expansion of the various engine components
as the engine reaches normal operating
temperature.
2 On most older engine designs, this meant
that the valve clearances (also known as
‘tappet’ clearances) had to be checked and
adjusted regularly. If the clearances were too
slack, the engine would be very noisy, its
power output would suffer and its fuel
consumption would increase. Conversely, if
the clearances were too tight, the engine’s
power output would be reduced and the
valves and their seats could be severely
damaged.
3 The engines covered in this Manual employ
hydraulic tappets which use engine oil
pressure to automatically take up the
clearance between each camshaft lobe and
its respective valve stem. This means that
there is no need for regular checking and
inspection of the valve clearances, but it is
essential that only good quality oil of the
recommended viscosity and specification is
used in the engine and that this oil is
scrupulously changed at the recommended
intervals. If this advice is not followed, the
oilways and tappets may become clogged
with particles of dirt or deposits of burnt
engine oil, so that the system cannot work
properly. Ultimately, one or more of the
tappets may fail and expensive repairs may
be required.
4 On starting the engine from cold, there will
be a slight delay while full oil pressure builds
up in all parts of the engine, especially in the
tappets. The valve clearances, therefore, may
well rattle for about 10 seconds or so and
then quieten. This is a normal state of affairs
and is nothing to worry about, provided that
all tappets quieten quickly and stay quiet.
5 After the vehicle has been standing for
several days, the valve clearances may rattle
for longer than usual as nearly all the oil will
have drained away from the engine’s top end
components and bearing surfaces. While this
is only to be expected, care must be taken not
to damage the engine by running it at high
speed until all the tappets are refilled with oil
and operating normally. With the vehicle
stationary, hold the engine at no more than a
fast idle speed (maximum 2000 to 2500 rpm)
for 10 to 15 minutes or until the noise ceases.
Do not run the engine at more than 3000 rpm
until all tappets are fully recharged with oil and
all noise has ceased.
6 If the valve clearances are thought to be
noisy, or if a light rattle persists from the
engine’s top end after it has reached normal
operating temperature, take the vehicle to a
Rover dealer for expert advice. Depending on

the mileage covered and the usage to which
each vehicle has been put, some vehicles may
be noisier than others. Only a good mechanic
experienced in these engines can tell if the
noise level is typical for the vehicle’s mileage
or if a genuine fault exists. If any tappet’s
operation is faulty, then it must be renewed.

13 Cylinder head - 

removal and refitting

4

Note: Due to engine design, it will become
very difficult, almost impossible, to turn the
crankshaft once the cylinder head bolts have
been slackened. The manufacturer states that
the crankshaft will be ‘tight’ and should not be
rotated more than absolutely necessary once
the head has been removed. If the crankshaft
cannot be rotated, then it must be removed
for overhaul work to proceed. With this in
mind, the crankshaft always must be rotated
to the desired position before the bolts are
disturbed.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Drain the cooling system.
3 Remove the camshaft sprocket(s).
4 Unscrew the bolts securing the timing belt
upper left-hand (inner) cover to the cylinder
head, so that the cover can be pulled away
from the cylinder head just far enough for
adequate working clearance. Take care not to
distort or damage the cover or the timing belt.
5 Remove the cylinder head cover.
6 Disconnect the exhaust system front pipe
from the manifold and, where fitted,
disconnect or release the lambda sensor
wiring so that it is not strained by the weight
of the exhaust.
7 Note that the following text assumes that
the cylinder head will be removed with both
inlet and exhaust manifolds attached. This is
easier but makes it a bulky and heavy
assembly to handle. If it is wished first to
remove the manifolds, proceed as described
in the relevant Sections of Chapter 4.
8 On carburettor engines, disconnect the
following from the carburettor and inlet
manifold as described in the relevant Sections
of Chapter 4A:
a)

Fuel pump feed hose - plug both
openings to prevent loss of fuel and entry
of dirt into system.

b)

Carburettor idle bypass solenoid wires.

c)

Accelerator cable.

d)

Choke cable.

e)

Vacuum servo unit vacuum hose.

f)

Inlet manifold PTC heater wire.

g)

Inlet manifold heater temperature switch
wiring.

9 On fuel-injected engines, refer to the
relevant Sections of Chapter 4B or C, and
disconnect or remove all throttle body/fuel rail
components appertaining to cylinder head
removal, noting the following:

a)

The fuel system must be depressurised
before any component is disconnected. 

b)

Plug the open ends of all disconnected
pipes to prevent loss of fuel and entry of
dirt into system.

c)

Discard all sealing washers and O-rings,
these must be renewed.

10 Working as described in Chapter 3,
disconnect the connector plug from the
coolant temperature sensor screwed into the
coolant outlet elbow, then disconnect the
coolant hoses from the (three) inlet manifold
unions and from the coolant outlet elbow.
11 Unclip the engine wiring harness from the
inlet manifold or its support stays. Slacken the
bolts securing the stays to the manifold, then
unbolt the support stays and the carburettor
metal overflow pipes from the cylinder
block/crankcase.
12 Remove the distributor cap, complete
with the spark plug HT leads. Remove the
spark plugs.
13 On K16 engines equipped with air
conditioning, undo the nuts and bolts
securing the heat shields to the rear of the
alternator and air conditioning compressor
and remove both heat shields. Slacken the
two lower alternator mounting bolts then
remove the upper mounting bolt and pivot the
alternator away from the cylinder head.
14 Working in the reverse of the tightening
sequence  (see illustrations 13.29a or
13.29b), progressively slacken the ten
cylinder head bolts by one turn at a time. A
female Torx-type socket (No 12 size) will be
required. Remove each bolt in turn and store
it in its correct fitted order by pushing it
through a clearly-marked cardboard template.
15 The joint between the cylinder head and
gasket and the cylinder block/crankcase must
now be broken without disturbing the wet
liners. Although these liners are better located
and sealed than some wet liner engines, there
is still a risk of coolant and foreign matter
leaking into the sump if the cylinder head is
lifted carelessly. If care is not taken and the
liners are moved, there is also a possibility of
the bottom seals being disturbed, causing
leakage after refitting the head.
16 To break the joint, obtain two L-shaped
metal bars which fit into the cylinder head bolt
holes and gently rock the cylinder head free
towards the front of the vehicle (see
illustration). Do not try to swivel the head on

Engine in-car repair procedures  2A•17

13.16  Using two cranked bars to break

cylinder head joint

2A

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

the cylinder block/crankcase as it is located
by dowels as well as by the tops of the liners.
17 With the joint broken, lift the cylinder head
away, using assistance if possible as it is a
heavy assembly, especially if complete with
the manifolds. Remove the gasket, noting the
two locating dowels, and discard it.
18 Further to the warnings given in the note
at the beginning of this Section, do not
attempt to rotate the crankshaft with the
cylinder head removed, otherwise the wet
liners may be displaced. Operations that
would normally require the rotation of the
crankshaft (eg: cleaning the piston crowns)
must be carried out with great care to ensure
that no particles of dirt or foreign matter are
left behind. If cylinder liner clamps are to be
used, they must be clamped in place using

spacers fitted under the heads of the cylinder
head bolts.
19 If the cylinder head is to be dismantled,
remove the camshaft(s) then refer to the
relevant Sections of Part B of this Chapter.

Refitting

20 Check the condition of the cylinder head
bolts, particularly their threads. Keeping all
bolts in their correct fitted order, wash them
and wipe dry. Check each bolt for any sign of
visible wear or damage, renewing as
necessary. Lightly oil the threads of each bolt,
carefully enter it into its original hole and
screw it in, by hand only until finger-tight.
Measure the distance from the cylinder
block/crankcase gasket surface to under the
bolt’s head (see illustration).
21 If the distance measured is under 97 mm,
the bolt may be re-used. If the distance
measured is more than 97 mm, the bolt must
be renewed. Considering the task these bolts
perform and the pressures they must
withstand, owners should consider renewing
all the bolts as a matched set if more than one
of the originals fail inspection or are close to
the limit set.
22 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block/crankcase must be perfectly
clean before refitting the head. Use a hard
plastic or wood scraper to remove all traces of
gasket and carbon.
23 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block/crankcase and the cylinder head for

nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If
slight, they may be removed carefully with a
file, but if excessive, machining may be the
only alternative to renewal.
24 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part B of this
Chapter if necessary.
25 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the
cylinder head and cylinder block/crankcase.
Check that the two locating dowels are in
position at each end of the cylinder
block/crankcase surface.
26 Position a new gasket on the cylinder
block/crankcase surface so that its TOP mark
is uppermost and the FRONT arrow points to
the timing belt end (see illustrations).
27 Refit the cylinder head, locating it on the
dowels (see illustration).
28 Keeping all the cylinder head bolts in their
correct fitted order, wash them and wipe dry.
Lightly oil under the head and on the threads
of each bolt, carefully enter it into its original
hole and screw it in, by hand only, until finger-
tight.
29 Working progressively and in the
sequence shown (see illustrations), use first
a torque wrench, then an ordinary socket
extension bar to tighten the cylinder head
bolts through the specified stages. To tighten
the bolts through the specified angles, simply
use a felt-tip pen or similar to mark the
position on the cylinder head of each bolt
head’s radial mark. The second stage then

2A•18 Engine in-car repair procedures

13.29c  Alignment of bolt head radial

marks with cylinder head to establish

tightening angles (arrowed)

13.29b  Cylinder head bolt tightening

sequence - K16 engine

13.29a  Cylinder head bolt tightening

sequence - K8 engine

13.27  Refitting the cylinder head

13.26b  . . . so that TOP mark is upwards

and FRONT arrow points to timing belt end

13.26a  Fit new cylinder head gasket on

two locating dowels (arrowed) . . .

13.20  Checking condition of cylinder head

bolt threads - cylinder head removed

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

tightens each bolt through half a turn so that
the marks face away from each other and the
third stage tightens them through another
half-turn so that all the bolt-head marks will
then align again with their cylinder head
counterparts. If any bolt is overtightened past
its mark, slacken it through 90°, then re-
tighten until the marks align (see illustration).
30 Refit and tighten the inlet manifold
support stay bolts, then secure the engine
wiring harness using the clips provided.
31 On K16 engines equipped with air
conditioning, refit the alternator mounting
bolts and tighten them to the specified torque
setting. Refit the compressor and alternator
heatshields, tightening their retaining bolts
and nuts securely.
32 Connect all disturbed coolant hoses,
securing them in position with their retaining
clips. Reconnect the coolant temperature
sensor wiring.
33 Working as described in Chapter 4,
connect or refit all disturbed wiring, hoses and
control cable(s) to the inlet manifold and fuel
system components, then adjust the choke
and or accelerator cable(s).
34 Reconnect the exhaust system front pipe
to the manifold and (if applicable) reconnect
the lambda sensor wiring.
35 Refit the cylinder head cover, inner timing
cover retaining bolts and camshaft
sprocket(s).
36 Refit the spark plugs and distributor cap
then reconnect the battery negative lead.
37 Refill the cooling system.

14 Sump - 

removal and refitting

2

Note:  It is essential that new bolts of the
Patchlok type are used when refitting the
sump.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Drain the engine oil then clean and refit the
engine oil drain plug, tightening it to the
specified torque wrench setting. If the engine
is nearing its service interval when the oil and
filter are due for renewal, it is recommended
that the filter is also removed and a new one
fitted. After reassembly, the engine can then
be replenished with fresh engine oil.
3 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the right-hand roadwheel.
4 From underneath the front of the vehicle,
slacken and remove the three bolts securing
the bumper flange to the body. Remove the
seven bolts securing the front undercover
panel to the body and remove the panel.
5 Working as described in Chapter 4,
disconnect the exhaust system front pipe
from the manifold and, where fitted,
disconnect or release the lambda sensor

wiring so that it is not strained by the weight
of the exhaust.
6 Unscrew the three retaining bolts and
remove the flywheel lower cover plate (see
illustration).
7 Slacken and remove the bolts securing the
anti-beaming bracket to the engine and
transmission and remove the bracket.
8 Progressively slacken the sump retaining
bolts then remove them along with the anti-
beaming bracket support. Make a note of the
correct fitted position of the support and of
the longer bolts at positions 4, 8 and 12 (see
illustration 14.14) to ensure correct  refitment
on reassembly.
9 Break the joint by striking the sump with the
palm of the hand, then lower the sump and
withdraw it (see illustration).
10 While the sump is removed, take the
opportunity to unbolt the oil pump pick-
up/strainer pipe and clean it using a suitable
solvent. Inspect the strainer mesh for signs of
clogging or splitting and renew if necessary.

Refitting

11 Clean all traces of gasket from the mating
surfaces of the cylinder block/crankcase and
sump, then use a clean rag to wipe out 
the sump and the engine’s interior. If the oil
pump pick-up/strainer pipe was removed, fit a
new sealing O-ring to its end and refit the
pipe, tightening its retaining bolts to the
specified torque setting.
12 If the sump gasket is damaged or shows
signs of deterioration, then it must be
renewed. Fit the gasket to the sump mating

surface so that its 7 locating pegs fit into the
sump holes (see illustration).
13 Offer up the sump to the cylinder
block/crankcase then fit the new sump
retaining bolts, not forgetting the anti-
beaming bracket support. Tighten the bolts
finger-tight only.
14 Working in the sequence shown (see
illustration), tighten the sump bolts to the
specified torque setting.
15 Refit the anti-beaming bracket and tighten
the mounting bolts to the specified torque
setting.
16 Install the flywheel lower cover plate and
tighten the retaining bolts to the specified
torque wrench setting.
17 Reconnect the exhaust system front pipe
to the manifold and, where necessary,
reconnect the lambda sensor wiring.
18 Refit the undercover panel and wheel,
then lower the vehicle to the ground and
reconnect the battery negative lead.
19 Replenish the engine oil.

15 Oil pump - 

removal and refitting

4

Note: The oil pressure relief valve can be
dismantled without removing the oil pump
from the vehicle. See Section 16 for details.

Removal

1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and
secure the timing belt clear of the working

Engine in-car repair procedures  2A•19

14.9  Removing the sump

14.6  Remove flywheel lower cover plate to

reach sump bolts

14.14  Sump bolt tightening sequence

14.12  Sump gasket pegs must engage

with sump mating surface holes

2A

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

area so that it cannot be contaminated with
oil.
2 Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit the
engine oil drain plug, tightening it to the
specified torque wrench setting. If the engine
is nearing its service interval when the oil and
filter are due for renewal, it is recommended
that the filter is also removed and a new one
fitted. After reassembly, the engine can then
be replenished with fresh engine oil.
3 Where necessary, unscrew the alternator
adjuster link retaining nut and unbolt the
engine wiring harness guide retaining screws,
then move the link and guide clear of the oil
pump.
4 Unscrew the oil pump retaining bolts,
noting the fitted position of the special bolt,
and withdraw the oil pump (see illustration).
Recover the pump gasket and discard it, then
carefully lever the crankshaft right-hand oil
seal out of the oil pump. The oil seal should be
renewed whenever it is disturbed.

Refitting

5 Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the oil
pump and cylinder block/crankcase. Use
grease to stick a new gasket in place.
6 Prime the pump before installation by
injecting clean engine oil into it and turning it
by hand.
7 Offer up the pump, ensuring that its inner

gear engages fully on the crankshaft flats,
then push the pump fully into position.
8 Refit the pump retaining bolts, ensuring that
the special bolt is refitted to its original
position. Tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified torque setting in the order shown
(see illustration).
9 If removed, refit the alternator adjuster link
and the engine wiring harness guide, then
tighten securely the retaining nut and screws.
10 Fit a new crankshaft right-hand oil seal.
11 Remove all traces of surplus oil then refit
the crankshaft sprocket.
12 Replenish the engine oil.

16 Oil pump - dismantling,

inspection and reassembly

4

Note: If oil pump wear is suspected, check the
cost and availability of new parts (only
available in the form of repair kit LQX 10001)
against the cost of a new pump. Examine the
pump as described in this Section and then
decide whether renewal or repair is the best
course of action.

Dismantling

1 Remove the oil pump.
2 Unscrew the Torx screws (size T25) and
remove the pump cover plate. Discard the
sealing ring.
3 Note the identification marks on the outer
rotor then remove both the rotors from the
body.

4 The oil pressure relief valve can be
dismantled, if required, without disturbing the
pump. If this is to be done with the pump in
position and the engine still installed in the
vehicle, it will first be necessary to jack up the
front of the vehicle and remove the right-hand
roadwheel to gain access to the valve (see
illustration).
5 To dismantle the valve, unscrew the
threaded plug and recover the valve spring
and plunger (see illustration). Discard the
plug sealing washer.

Inspection

6 Inspect the rotors for obvious signs of wear
or damage and renew if necessary. If the
pump body or cover plate is scored or
damaged, then the complete oil pump
assembly must be renewed.
7 Using feeler gauge blades of the
appropriate thickness, measure the clearance
between the outer rotor and the pump body,
then between the tips of the inner and outer
rotor lobes (a and b respectively) (see
illustration).
8 Using feeler gauge blades and a straight-
edge placed across the top of the pump body
and the rotors, measure the rotor endfloat (c). 
9 If any measurement is outside the specified
limits, the complete pump assembly must be
renewed.
10 If the pressure relief valve plunger is
scored, or if it does not slide freely in the
pump body bore, then it must be renewed,
using all the components from the repair kit.
11 To complete a thorough inspection of the
oil pump components, the sump should be
removed and the oil pump pick-up/strainer
pipe removed and cleaned.

Reassembly

12 Lubricate the pump rotors with clean
engine oil and refit them to the pump body,

2A•20 Engine in-car repair procedures

16.7  Checking oil pump rotors for wear -

see text for details

16.5  Oil pressure relief valve assembly

1

Threaded plug

2

Valve spring and plunger

16.4  Unscrewing oil pressure relief valve

threaded plug

15.8  Oil pump bolt tightening sequence

15.4  Alternator adjuster link nut (A) wiring

guide screws (B) oil pump bolts (C) and

special oil pump bolt (D)

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

ensuring that the outer rotor’s identification
mark faces outwards (see illustration).
13 Fit a new sealing ring to the pump body
and refit the cover plate. Apply thread-locking
compound to the threads of the cover plate
Torx screws and tighten them securely.
14 Check that the pump rotates freely, then
prime it by injecting oil into its passages and
rotating it. If a long time elapses before the
pump is refitted to the engine, prime it again
before installation.
15 Refit the oil pressure relief valve plunger,
ensuring that it is the correct way up, then
install the spring. Fit a new sealing washer to
the threaded plug and tighten the plug
securely.

17 Crankshaft oil seals - 

renewal

4

Right-hand seal

1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and
secure the timing belt clear of the working
area so that it cannot be contaminated with
oil.
2 Punch or drill two small holes opposite
each other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping
screw into each and pull on the screws with
pliers to extract the seal.
3 Clean the seal housing and polish off any
burrs or raised edges which may have caused
the seal to fail in the first place.
4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean
engine oil and drive it into position until it
seats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitable
tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears
only on the hard outer edge of the seal. Take
care not to damage the seal lips during fitting.
Use either grease or a thin layer of insulating
tape to protect the seal lips from the edges of
the crankshaft flats but be careful to remove
all traces of tape and to lubricate the seal lips
if the second method is used. Note that the
seal lips should face inwards.
5 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the
crankshaft sprocket.

Left-hand seal

6 Remove the flywheel.

7 Taking care not to mark either the
crankshaft or any part of the cylinder
block/crankcase, lever the seal evenly out of
its housing.
8 Clean the seal housing and polish off any
burrs or raised edges which may have caused
the seal to fail in the first place.
9 Lubricate with grease the lips of the new
seal and the crankshaft shoulder, then offer
up the seal to the cylinder block/crankcase.
10 Ease the sealing lip of the seal over the
crankshaft shoulder by hand only, then press
the seal evenly into its housing until its outer
flange seats evenly on the housing lip. If
necessary, a soft-faced mallet can be used to
tap the seal gently into place.
11 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the
flywheel.

18 Flywheel - removal, 

inspection and refitting

5

Removal

1 Remove the gearbox and the clutch
assembly.
2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking
the ring gear teeth (see illustration) or by
bolting a strap between the flywheel and the
cylinder block/crankcase.
3 Slacken and remove the flywheel retaining
bolts and discard them The bolts must be
renewed whenever they are disturbed.
4 Remove the flywheel. Do not drop it, as it is
very heavy.

Inspection

5 If the flywheel’s clutch mating surface is
deeply scored, cracked or otherwise
damaged, then the flywheel must be renewed,
unless it is possible to have it surface ground.
Seek the advice of a Rover dealer or engine
reconditioning specialist.
6 If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing
teeth, then it must be renewed. This job is
best left to a Rover dealer or engine
reconditioning specialist. The temperature to
which the new ring gear must be heated for
installation (350°C - shown by an even light
blue colour) is critical and, if not done

accurately, the hardness of the teeth will be
destroyed.
7 Examine the reluctor ring (fitted to the rear
of the flywheel) for signs of damage and
check that it is securely fastened by the two
retaining screws. If the reluctor ring is
damaged, then it must be renewed.

Refitting

8 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel
and crankshaft. Clean any remaining adhesive
from the threads of the crankshaft threaded
holes by making two saw cuts at opposite
points along the (carefully-cleaned) threads of
one of the original flywheel bolts and screwing
it into each hole in turn. Do not use a tap to
clean the threads in this way.
9 Position the flywheel over the crankshaft’s
locating dowel, press it into place and fit six
new bolts.
10 Lock the flywheel using the method
employed on dismantling, then tighten the
retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench
setting.
11 Refit the clutch, then remove the locking
tool and refit the gearbox.

19 Engine/gearbox mountings -

inspection and renewal

2

Inspection

1 If improved access is required, raise the
front of the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
2 Check the mounting rubber to see if it is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal at any point. Renew the mounting if any
such damage or deterioration is evident.
3 Check that all mounting fasteners are
securely tightened. Use a torque wrench to
check, if possible.
4 Using a large screwdriver or a pry bar,
check for wear in the mounting by carefully
levering against it to check for free play.
Where this is not possible, enlist the aid of an
assistant to move the engine/gearbox unit
back and forth or from side to side while 
you watch the mounting. While some free play
is to be expected even from new
components, excessive wear should be
obvious. If excessive free play is found, check
first that the fasteners are correctly secured,
then renew any worn components as
described below.

Renewal

Right-hand mounting

5 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
6 To improve access to the mounting,
remove the expansion tank mounting bolts
then free the coolant hose from any relevant
retaining clips and position the tank clear of
the engine. On models equipped with power-
assisted steering, undo all the power steering
hose retaining clamp bolts then slide the fluid

Engine in-car repair procedures  2A•21

18.2  Using fabricated tool to lock flywheel

in position

16.12  Oil pump outer rotor outside face

identifying mark (arrowed)

2A

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

reservoir out of its retaining clip and position it
clear of the timing belt covers. Take great care
not to place any undue strain on hoses and
mop up any spilt fluid immediately.
7 Support the weight of the engine/gearbox
unit by using a trolley jack, with a wooden
spacer to prevent damage to the sump.
Unscrew the mounting through-bolt and nut
and the mounting to bracket nuts. Remove
the mounting, noting the two rubber washers
(see illustrations).
8 Where necessary, unscrew the retaining
bolts and remove the bracket from the
cylinder block/crankcase.
9 Check carefully for signs of wear or damage
on all components and renew them where
necessary.
10 On reassembly, refit the bracket to the

cylinder block/crankcase and tighten the
retaining bolts to the specified torque setting.
11 Locate the rubber washers on the
mounting, one on each side of its centre boss,
then refit the mounting to the bracket and
tighten the retaining nuts, finger-tight only.
12 Using the trolley jack to position the
engine unit at the correct height, refit from
rear to front the mounting-to-body through-
bolt, ensuring that the rubber washers are
correctly seated, then refit the nut (see
illustration).
13 Tighten the mounting to bracket nuts and
the through-bolt to the specified torque
wrench settings, then lower and remove the
jack.
14 Where necessary, refit the power steering
fluid reservoir to its mounting bracket and
secure the hydraulic hose clamps in position
with the retaining bolts.
15 Refit the coolant expansion tank and
tighten the mounting bolts securely. Secure
the coolant hose in position with any
necessary retaining clips and reconnect the
battery negative lead.

Left-hand mounting

16 Disconnect the battery negative lead then
disconnect the clutch cable.
17 To improve access to the mounting,
unclip the engine wiring harness and position
it clear of the mounting.
18 Support the weight of the engine/gearbox

unit by using a trolley jack, with a wooden
spacer to prevent damage to the gearbox
casing. Slacken and remove the two bolts
securing the gearbox bracket to the mounting
(see illustration).
19 Lower the engine/gearbox unit, then
remove the four bolts securing the mounting
to the body and manoeuvre the mounting out
of position. If required, slacken and remove
the two bolts which secure the bracket to the
gearbox and remove the bracket (see
illustrations).
20 Although the mounting rubber is secured
by two nuts to a metal outer section, the two
parts can be renewed only as a complete
assembly. Check all components carefully for
signs of wear or damage and renew where
necessary.
21 On reassembly, refit the bracket to the
gearbox and tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified torque setting.
22 Manoeuvre the mounting into position
then refit the retaining bolts and tighten them
to the specified torque setting.
23 Use the trolley jack to raise the gearbox to
the correct height, then refit the mounting
bracket to mounting bolts and tighten them to
the specified torque setting. Refit the wiring
harness to its retaining clip.
24 Refit the clutch cable and reconnect the
battery negative lead.

Rear mounting

25 Apply the handbrake then jack up the

2A•22 Engine in-car repair procedures

19.19c  Gearbox bracket is retained by two

bolts (one arrowed)

19.19b  . . . and remove mounting

19.19a  . . . then lower gearbox and remove

four left-hand mounting-to-body bolts

(arrowed) . . .

19.12  Check rubber washers are correctly

installed before tightening through-bolt nut

19.18  Slacken and remove gearbox

bracket-to-mounting bolts . . .

19.7b  Right-hand mounting through-

bolt (A), mounting-to-bracket nuts (B),

bracket-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts

(two arrowed - C)

19.7a  Use trolley jack with wooden spacer

to adjust height of engine/gearbox unit

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

front of the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
26 Support the weight of the engine/gearbox
unit by using a trolley jack, with a wooden
spacer to prevent damage to the transmission
casing. Unbolt the mounting bracket from the
gearbox and the connecting link from the
underbody bracket, then remove the
mounting 

(see illustrations).

27 Unscrew the through-bolt to separate the
connecting link from the bracket. Check
carefully for signs of wear or damage, paying
particular attention to the connecting link
rubber bushes. Renew as necessary.
28 Reassembly is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Tighten all mounting bolts to the
specified torque setting.

Engine in-car repair procedures  2A•23

19.26b  . . . then undo connecting link-to-

underbody bracket bolt and remove

mounting

19.26a  Unbolt rear mounting to gearbox

bolts (arrowed) . . .

2A

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

2B

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Chapter 2 Part B  Engine removal 
and general overhaul procedures

Crankshaft - inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Crankshaft - refitting and main bearing running clearance check  . . 18
Crankshaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Cylinder block/crankcase, bearing ladder and oil rail - cleaning 

and inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Cylinder head - dismantling  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

Cylinder head - reassembly  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

Cylinder head and valves - cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

Cylinder liners - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Engine - initial start-up after overhaul  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Engine overhaul - dismantling sequence  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

Engine overhaul - general information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Engine/gearbox - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

Engine/gearbox removal - methods and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

Main and big-end bearings - inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Piston rings - refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Piston/connecting rod assembly - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Piston/connecting rod assembly - refitting and big-end bearing 

running clearance check  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Piston/connecting rod assembly - removal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

2B•1

Contents

Specifications

Refer to Part A of this Chapter

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1

1

General information

Included in this part of the Chapter are

details of removing the engine/gearbox unit
from the vehicle and general overhaul
procedures for the cylinder head, cylinder
block/crankcase and all other engine internal
components.

The information given ranges from advice

concerning preparation for an overhaul and
the purchase of replacement parts to detailed
step-by-step procedures covering removal,
inspection, renovation and refitting of engine
internal components.

After Section 5, all instructions are based

on the assumption that the engine has been
removed from the vehicle. For information
concerning in-car engine repair, as well as the

removal and refitting of those external
components necessary for full overhaul, refer
to Part A of this Chapter and to Section 5.
Ignore any preliminary dismantling operations
described in Part A that are no longer relevant
once the engine has been removed from the
vehicle.

2

Engine overhaul - 
general information

It is not always easy to determine when, or

if, an engine should be completely
overhauled, as a number of factors must be
considered.

High mileage is not necessarily an

indication that an overhaul is needed, while
low mileage does not preclude the need for an
overhaul. Frequency of servicing is probably

the most important consideration. An engine
which has had regular and frequent oil and
filter changes, as well as other required
maintenance, should give many thousands of
miles of reliable service. Conversely, a
neglected engine may require an overhaul
very early in its life. If a complete service does
not remedy any problems, major mechanical
work is the only solution.

Excessive oil consumption is an indication

that piston rings, valve seals and/or valve
guides are in need of attention. Make sure
that oil leaks are not responsible before
deciding that the rings and/or guides are
worn. Perform a compression test to
determine the likely cause of the problem.

Check the oil pressure with a gauge fitted in

place of the oil pressure switch and compare
it with that specified. If it is extremely low, the
main and big-end bearings and/or the oil
pump are probably worn out.

Loss of power, rough running, knocking or

metallic engine noises, excessive valve gear
noise and high fuel consumption may also
point to the need for an overhaul, especially if
they are all present at the same time.

An engine overhaul involves restoring all

internal parts to the specification of a new
engine. During an overhaul, the cylinder liners,
the pistons and the piston rings are renewed.
New main and big-end bearings are generally
fitted and, if necessary, the crankshaft may be
renewed to restore the journals. The valves
are serviced as well, since they are usually in
less than perfect condition at this point. While
the engine is being overhauled, other
components, such as the distributor, starter
and alternator, can be overhauled as well. The
end result should be an as-new engine that
will give many trouble-free miles.

Critical cooling system components such

as the hoses, thermostat and coolant pump
should be renewed when an engine is
overhauled. The radiator should be checked
carefully to ensure that it is not clogged 
or leaking. Also it is a good idea to renew 
the oil pump whenever the engine is
overhauled.

Before beginning the engine overhaul, read

through the entire procedure to familiarize
yourself with the scope and requirements of
the job. Overhauling an engine is not difficult if
you follow carefully all of the instructions,
have the necessary tools and equipment and
pay close attention to all specifications.
However, it can be time-consuming. Plan on
the vehicle being off the road for a minimum
of two weeks, especially if parts must be
taken to an engineering works for repair or
reconditioning. Check on the availability of
parts and make sure that any necessary
special tools and equipment are obtained in
advance. Most work can be done with typical
hand tools, although a number of precision
measuring tools are required for inspecting
parts to determine if they must be renewed.
Often the engineering works will handle the
inspection of parts and offer advice
concerning reconditioning and renewal.

Always wait until the engine has been

completely dismantled and all components,
especially the cylinder block/crankcase, the
cylinder liners and the crankshaft have been
inspected before deciding what service and
repair operations must be performed by an
engineering works. Since the condition of
these components will be the major factor to
consider when determining whether to
overhaul the original engine or buy a
reconditioned unit, do not purchase parts or
have overhaul work done on other
components until they have been thoroughly
inspected. As a general rule, time is the
primary cost of an overhaul, so it does not pay
to fit worn or substandard parts.

As a final note, to ensure maximum life and

minimum trouble from a reconditioned engine,
everything must be assembled with care in a
spotlessly clean environment.

3

Engine/gearbox removal -
methods and precautions

If you have decided that the engine must be

removed for overhaul or major repair 
work, several preliminary steps should be
taken.

Locating a suitable place to work is

extremely important. Adequate work space,
along with storage space for the vehicle, will
be needed. If a shop or garage is not
available, at the very least a flat, level, clean
work surface is required.

Cleaning the engine compartment and

engine/gearbox before beginning the removal
procedure will help keep things clean and
organised.

An engine hoist or A-frame will also be

necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated
in excess of the combined weight of the
engine and gearbox (290 lb/130 kg
approximately). Safety is of primary
importance, considering the potential hazards
involved in lifting the engine/gearbox unit out
of the vehicle.

If the engine/gearbox unit is being removed

by a novice, a helper should be available.
Advice and aid from someone more
experienced would also be helpful. There are
many instances when one person cannot
simultaneously perform all of the operations
required when lifting the unit out of the
vehicle.

Plan the operation ahead of time. Before

starting work, arrange for the hire of or obtain
all of the tools and equipment you will need.
Some of the equipment necessary to perform
engine/gearbox removal and installation
safely and with relative ease are (in addition to
an engine hoist) a heavy duty trolley jack,
complete sets of spanners and sockets as
described at the front of this Manual, 
wooden blocks and plenty of rags and
cleaning solvent for mopping up spilled oil,
coolant and fuel. If the hoist must be hired,
make sure that you arrange for it in advance
and perform all of the operations possible
without it beforehand. This will save you
money and time.

Plan for the vehicle to be out of use for

quite a while. An engineering works will be
required to perform some of the work which
the do-it-yourselfer cannot accomplish
without special equipment. These places
often have a busy schedule, so it would 
be a good idea to consult them before
removing the engine in order to accurately
estimate the amount of time required to
rebuild or repair components that may need
work.

Always be extremely careful when removing

and refitting the engine/gearbox unit. Serious
injury can result from careless actions. Plan
ahead, take your time and a job of this nature,
although major, can be accomplished
successfully.

4

Engine/gearbox - 
removal and refitting

3

Note: The engine can be removed from the
vehicle only as a complete unit with the gearbox.

Removal

1 Park the vehicle on firm, level ground then
remove the bonnet.
2 If the engine is to be dismantled, drain the
oil and remove the oil filter, then clean and
refit the drain plug, tightening it to its specified
torque setting.
3 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands. Remove both front roadwheels.
4 From underneath the front of the vehicle,
slacken and remove the three bolts securing
the bumper flange to the body. Remove the
seven bolts securing the front undercover
panel to the body and remove the panel.
5 Drain the gearbox oil, then clean and refit
the drain plug, tightening it to its specified
torque setting.
6 Drain the cooling system.
7 Remove the battery, followed by the battery
tray and support bracket.
8 Remove the complete air cleaner assembly,
including the intake duct and mounting
bracket, intake hose and resonator.
9 Disconnect the ignition coil HT lead from
the distributor cap.
10 Undo the nut and disconnect the battery
positive lead from the main starter motor
solenoid terminal, then carefully disconnect
the spade connector from the solenoid.
11 Undo the two bolts securing the engine
compartment fusebox to the body, then
disconnect the two engine wiring harness
block connectors from the underside of the
fusebox. Undo the bolt securing the wiring
harness earth lead to the bonnet platform, then
disconnect the LT wiring connector from the
ignition coil. On fuel-injected engines, also
disconnect the wiring connector and vacuum
pipe from the engine management ECU. Free
the engine wiring harness from any relevant
clips or ties so that it is free to be removed with
the engine/gearbox unit (see illustrations).

2B•2 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures

4.11a  Disconnecting engine harness

wiring connectors from underside of

fusebox . . .

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

12 Trace the clutch cable back from the
clutch release lever to the bulkhead and
remove the C-clip which retains the outer
cable spring in position. Unhook the 
inner cable from the release lever and free the
outer cable from its mounting bracket and
position it clear of the gearbox.
13 From underneath the vehicle, pull out the
rubber retaining pin which secures the lower
end of the speedometer cable to the gearbox
housing. Withdraw the cable from the
speedometer drive and remove the O-rings
from the cable lower end. Renew the O-rings,
regardless of their condition.
14 In the absence of the special gearchange
linkage balljoint separator (Rover service tool
number 18G 1592), use a suitable flat-bladed
screwdriver to carefully lever the link rod
balljoints off the gearbox upper and lower
selector levers, taking care not to damage the
balljoint gaiters.
15 Unscrew the reverse interlock cable nut
from the top of the gearbox housing. In the
absence of the special spanner (Rover service
tool number 18G 1591), use a close-fitting
spanner to unscrew the plastic nut, noting
that it is easily damaged. Plug the gearbox
orifice to prevent the entry of dirt.
16 Disconnect the coolant hose from the
bottom of the expansion tank, the expansion
tank hose from the inlet manifold union, both
heater hoses from the heater matrix unions
and the radiator top hose from the coolant
outlet elbow. Either remove the radiator
bottom hose or secure it so that it will not
hinder engine/gearbox removal.
17 Slacken and remove the union bolt which
secures the vacuum servo unit vacuum hose
to the inlet manifold. Discard the sealing
washers as they must be renewed whenever
they are disturbed.
18 On carburettor engines, disconnect the
feed hose from the fuel pump, then
disconnect the accelerator and choke cables
from the carburettor.
19 On fuel-injected engines, depressurise the
fuel system and disconnect the fuel feed and
return hoses from the throttle body/fuel rail.
Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle housing.

20 Remove the expansion tank mounting
bolts and position the tank clear of the engine
unit.
21 Remove the alternator.
22 On models equipped with power-assisted
steering, remove the power steering pump.
23 On models equipped with air
conditioning, slacken and remove the two
compressor heatshield retaining bolts then
remove the heatshield and disconnect the
compressor wiring connector. Undo the four
bolts securing the compressor to the
mounting bracket and the single bolt securing
the air conditioning pipe to the mounting
bracket. Position the compressor clear of the
engine unit. Secure it to the body to avoid
placing any strain on the air conditioning
pipes and hoses.
24 Disconnect the exhaust system front pipe
from the manifold and, where necessary,
disconnect the lambda sensor wiring
connector.
25 Slacken and remove the bolt and washer
securing the anti-roll bar connecting link to
the left-hand lower suspension arm, then the
two bolts securing the tie bar to the lower
suspension arm.
26 Extract the split pins and undo the nuts
securing the steering gear track rod end
balljoint and the left-hand lower suspension
arm balljoint to the swivel hub. Remove the
nuts and release the balljoint tapered shanks
using a universal balljoint separator.

27 Insert a suitable flat bar in between the
left-hand inner constant velocity joint and
gearbox housing, then carefully lever the joint
out of position, whilst taking great care not to
damage the gearbox housing.
28 Withdraw the left-hand inner constant
velocity joint from the gearbox and support
the driveshaft to avoid damaging the constant
velocity joints or gaiters. Repeat the
operations described in paragraphs 25 to 28
for the right-hand driveshaft.
29 On K8 engines, the cylinder head has a
tapped hole provided at the right-hand rear
end (above the dipstick tube) and at the left-
hand front end (behind the spark plug lead
clips). On K16 engine cylinder heads, the
right-hand end hole is in the same place but at
the left-hand end, the air intake duct support
bracket mounting points must be used.
Attach lifting brackets to the engine at these
points (see illustrations). Take the weight of
the engine/gearbox unit on the engine hoist.
30 From underneath the vehicle, unscrew the
two bolts securing the rear engine/gearbox
mounting bracket to the gearbox, then
slacken the connecting link-to-body through-
bolt and pivot the mounting away from the
gearbox.
31 Slacken and remove the two bolts
securing the left-hand gearbox bracket to the
mounting. Lower the gearbox slightly then
undo the four bolts securing the mounting to
the body and manoeuvre the mounting out of
position.
32 Raise the gearbox again then slacken and
remove the right-hand engine/gearbox
mounting through-bolt and nut. Unscrew the
two nuts securing the mounting to the engine
bracket and remove it, noting the rubber
washers which are fitted on each side of the
bracket.
33 Make a final check that all components
have been removed or disconnected that will
prevent removal of the engine/gearbox unit
from the vehicle and ensure that components
such as the gearchange linkage link rods are
secured so that they cannot be damaged on
removal.
34 Lift the engine/gearbox unit out of the
vehicle, ensuring that nothing is trapped or
damaged. Once the unit is high enough, lift it

Engine removal and general overhaul procedures  2B•3

4.11c  Disconnecting vacuum pipe from

engine management ECU - fuel-injected

engines

4.29b  . . . and left-hand engine lifting

bracket - K16 engine

4.29a  Right-hand engine lifting bracket . . .

4.11b  . . . and ignition coil LT wiring

connector

2B

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

out over the front of the body and lower the
unit to the ground (see illustration).
35 To separate the engine and gearbox, first
remove the starter motor.
36 Unbolt the flywheel front, lower and rear
cover plates, then unscrew the four bolts
securing the gearbox to the engine and gently
prise the gearbox off the two locating dowels
(at the front and rear of the main bearing
ladder). Move the gearbox squarely away
from the engine, ensuring that the clutch
components are not damaged.
37 If the engine is to be overhauled, remove
the clutch.

Refitting

38 Refitting is the reverse of removal,
following where necessary the instructions
given in the other Chapters of this Manual.
Note the following additional points:
a)

Overhaul and lubricate the clutch
components before refitting.

b)

When the gearbox, starter motor and
flywheel cover plates have been refitted,
lift the engine/gearbox unit and lower it
into the engine compartment so that it is
slightly tilted (gearbox down). Engage
both driveshafts then return the unit to the
horizontal and refit the engine/gearbox
mountings.

c)

Remove the lifting brackets and refit any
components removed to enable them to
be fitted.

d)

Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque wrench settings.

e)

Adjust the choke and/or accelerator
cable(s).

f)

Refill the engine and gearbox with oil.

g)

Refill the cooling system.

5

Engine overhaul - 
dismantling sequence

Note: When removing external components
from the engine, pay close attention to details
that may be helpful or important during
refitting. Note the fitted position of gaskets,
seals, spacers, pins, washers, bolts and other
small items.
1 It is much easier to work on the engine if it
is mounted on a portable engine stand. These
stands can often be hired from a tool hire
shop. Before the engine is mounted on a
stand, the flywheel should be removed so that
the stand bolts can be tightened into the end
of the cylinder block/crankcase (not the main
bearing ladder).
2 If a stand is not available, it is possible to
dismantle the engine with it blocked up on a
sturdy workbench or on the floor. Be extra
careful not to tip or drop the engine when
working without a stand.
3 If you are going to obtain a reconditioned
engine, all external components must be
removed for transference to the replacement
engine (just as if you are doing a complete

engine overhaul yourself). These components
include the following:
a)

Alternator mounting brackets.

b)

Power steering pump and air conditioning
compressor brackets (where fitted).

c)

Distributor, HT leads and spark plugs.

d)

Thermostat and housing, coolant rail,
coolant outlet elbow.

e)

Dipstick tube.

f)

Carburettor/fuel injection system
components.

g)

All electrical switches and sensors.

h)

Inlet and exhaust manifolds.

i)

Oil filter.

j)

Fuel pump.

k)

Engine mountings.

l)

Flywheel.

4 If you are obtaining a short motor (which
consists of the engine cylinder block/crankcase
and main bearing ladder, crankshaft, pistons
and connecting rods all assembled), then the
cylinder head, sump, oil pump, and timing belt
will have to be removed also.
5 If you are planning a complete overhaul, the
engine can be dismantled and the internal
components removed in the following order:
a)

Inlet and exhaust manifolds.

b)

Timing belt, sprockets, tensioner and
timing belt inner cover.

c)

Cylinder head.

d)

Flywheel.

e)

Sump.

f)

Oil pump.

g)

Piston/connecting rod assemblies.

h)

Crankshaft.

6 Before beginning the dismantling and
overhaul procedures, make sure that you have
all of the correct tools necessary. Refer to the
introductory pages at the beginning of this
Manual for further information.

6

Cylinder head - dismantling

3

Note: New and reconditioned cylinder heads
are available from the manufacturer and from
engine overhaul specialists. Due to the fact
that some specialist tools are required for
dismantling and inspection, and new
components may not be readily available, it
may be more practical and economical for the
home mechanic to purchase a reconditioned
head rather than dismantle, inspect and
recondition the original.
1 Remove the camshaft(s) and hydraulic
tappets.
2 Remove the cylinder head.
3 Using a valve spring compressor, compress
each valve spring in turn until the split collets
can be removed. Release the compressor and
lift off the spring retainer and spring, then use
a pair of pliers to extract the spring bottom
seat/stem seal (see illustrations).

4 Withdraw the valve through the combustion
chamber.
5 It is essential that each valve is stored
together with its collets, retainer and spring,
and that all valves are kept in their correct
sequence, unless they are so badly worn that
they are to be renewed. If they are going to be
kept and used again, place each valve
assembly in a labelled polythene bag or

2B•4 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures

6.3b  Extracting a valve spring bottom

seat/stem seal

6.3a  Using a valve spring compressor to

release split collets

4.34  Lifting out engine/gearbox unit

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

If, when the valve spring
compressor is screwed
down, the spring retainer
refuses to free and expose

the split collets, gently tap the top of
the tool directly over the retainer with a
light hammer. This will free the
retainer.

similar small container (see illustration). Note
that No 1 valve is nearest to the timing belt
end of the engine.

7

Cylinder head and valves -
cleaning and inspection

4

Note: If the engine has been severely
overheated, it is best to assume that the
cylinder head is warped and to check carefully
for signs of this.
Note: Be sure to perform all the following
inspection procedures before concluding that
the services of a machine shop or engine
overhaul specialist are required. Make a list of
all items that require attention.
1 Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head and
valve components, followed by a detailed
inspection, will enable you to decide how
much valve service work must be carried out
during the engine overhaul.

Cleaning

2 Scrape away all traces of old gasket
material and sealing compound from the
cylinder head.
3 Scrape away all carbon from the
combustion chambers and ports, then wash
the cylinder head thoroughly with paraffin or a
suitable solvent.
4 Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits that
may have formed on the valves, then use a
power-operated wire brush to remove
deposits from the valve heads and stems.

Inspection

Cylinder head

5 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks,
evidence of coolant leakage and other
damage. If cracks are found, a new cylinder
head should be obtained.
6 Use a straight-edge and feeler gauge blade
to check that the cylinder head surface is not
distorted (see illustrations). If it is, it may be
possible to resurface it, provided that the
specified reface limit is not exceeded in so
doing, or that the cylinder head is not reduced
to less than the specified height.
7 Examine the valve seats in each of the
combustion chambers. If they are severely

pitted, cracked or burned, then they will need
to be renewed or re-cut by an engine overhaul
specialist. If they are only slightly pitted, this
can be removed by grinding-in the valve
heads and seats with fine valve-grinding
compound as described below. To check for
excessive wear, refit each valve and measure
the installed height of the stem tip above the
cylinder head upper surface (see illustration).
If the measurement is above the specified
limit, repeat the test using a new valve. If the
measurement is still excessive, renew the seat
insert.
8 If the valve guides are worn, indicated by a
side to side motion of the valve, new guides
must be fitted. Measure the diameter of the
existing valve stems (see below) and the bore
of the guides, then calculate the clearance
and compare the result with the specified
value. If the clearance is excessive, renew the
valves or guides as necessary.
9 Valve guide renewal is best carried out by
an engine overhaul specialist. If the work is to
be carried out at home, then use a stepped,
double-diameter drift to drive out the worn
guide towards the combustion chamber. On
fitting the new guide, place it first in a deep-
freeze for one hour, then drive it into the
cylinder head bore from the camshaft side
until it projects the specified amount above
the spring bottom seat/stem seal surface.

10 If the valve seats are to be re-cut, this
must be done only after the guides have been
renewed.

Valves

11 Examine the head of each valve for
pitting, burning, cracks and general wear,
then check the valve stem for scoring and
wear ridges. Rotate the valve and check for
any obvious indication that it is bent. Look for
pits and excessive wear on the tip of each
valve stem. Renew any valve that shows any
such signs of wear or damage.
12 If the valve appears satisfactory at this
stage, measure the valve stem diameter at
several points by using a micrometer (see
illustration). Any significant difference in the
readings obtained indicates wear of the valve
stem. Should any of these conditions be
apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed.
13 If the valves are in satisfactory condition
they should be ground (lapped) into their
respective seats to ensure a smooth gas-tight
seal. If the seat is only lightly pitted, or if it has
been re-cut, fine grinding compound only
should be used to produce the required finish.
Coarse valve-grinding compound should not
be used unless a seat is badly burned or
deeply pitted. If this is the case, the cylinder
head and valves should be inspected by an
expert to decide whether seat re-cutting or

Engine removal and general overhaul procedures  2B•5

7.6a  Checking a cylinder head gasket

surface for warpage

6.5  Use a labelled plastic bag to keep

together and identify valve components

7.12  Measuring valve stem diameter

7.7  Check valve seat wear by measuring

valve stem installed height (A)

7.6b  Check cylinder head gasket surface

for warpage along paths shown

A  K16 engine      B  K8 engine

2B

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

even the renewal of the valve or seat insert is
required.
14 Valve grinding is carried out as follows.
Place the cylinder head upside down on a
bench.
15 Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade of)
valve-grinding compound on the seat face and
press a suction grinding tool onto the valve
head. With a semi-rotary action, grind the valve
head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to
redistribute the grinding compound (see
illustration). A light spring placed under the
valve head will greatly ease this operation.
16 If coarse grinding compound is being
used, work only until a dull, matt even surface
is produced on both the valve seat and the
valve, then wipe off the used compound and
repeat the process with fine compound. When
a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt
finish is produced on both the valve and seat,
the grinding operation is complete. Do not
grind in the valves any further than absolutely
necessary, or the seat will be prematurely
sunk into the cylinder head.
17 To check that the seat has not been over-
ground, measure the valve stem installed
height, as described in paragraph 7.
18 When all the valves have been ground-in,
carefully wash off all traces of grinding
compound using paraffin or a suitable solvent.

Valve components

19 Examine the valve springs for signs of

damage and discoloration and also measure
their free length using vernier calipers or by
comparing each existing spring with a new
component (see illustration).
20 Stand each spring on a flat surface and
check it for squareness. If any of the springs
are damaged, distorted or have lost their
tension, then obtain a complete new set of
springs.
21 Check the hydraulic tappets as described
in Part A of this Chapter.

8

Cylinder head - reassembly

4

1 Lubricate the valve stems with clean engine
oil and insert each valve into its original
location. If new valves are being fitted, insert
them into the locations to which they have
been ground.
2 Working on the first valve, dip the spring
bottom seat/stem seal in clean engine oil then
carefully locate it over the valve and onto the
guide. Take care not to damage the seal as it
is passed over the valve stem. Use a suitable
socket or metal tube to press the seal firmly
onto the guide (see illustration).
3 Locate the spring on the seat, followed by
the spring retainer.
4 Compress the valve spring and locate the
split collets in the recess in the valve stem.

Use a little grease to hold the collets in place.
Release the compressor, then repeat the
procedure on the remaining valves.
5 With all the valves installed, place the
cylinder head flat on the bench and, using a
hammer and interposed block of wood, tap
the end of each valve stem to settle the
components.
6 Refit the hydraulic tappets and camshaft(s)
as described in Part A of this Chapter.

9

Piston/connecting rod
assembly - removal

4

Note: Due to the design of the engine, it will
become very difficult, almost impossible, to
turn the crankshaft once the cylinder head
bolts have been slackened. The manufacturer
accordingly states that the crankshaft will be
‘tight’ and should not be rotated more than
absolutely necessary once the head has been
removed. If the crankshaft cannot be rotated,
then it must be removed for overhaul work to
proceed. With this in mind, during any
servicing or overhaul work the crankshaft must
always be rotated to the desired position
before the bolts are disturbed.

Removal - without removing
crankshaft

1 Remove the timing belt, the camshaft
sprocket(s) and tensioner, and the timing belt
inner cover.
2 Remove the camshaft(s) and hydraulic
tappets, being careful to store the hydraulic
tappets correctly.
3 If the flywheel has been removed,
temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley and
apply a spanner to the bolt to rotate the
crankshaft.
4 Rotate the crankshaft until Nos 1 and 4
cylinder pistons are at the top of their stroke.
5 Remove the cylinder head. The crankshaft
cannot now be rotated.
6 Slacken and remove the two dipstick tube
retaining bolts and remove the tube from the
cylinder block/crankcase (see illustrations).

9.6a  Dipstick tube mounting bolts

(arrowed)

2B•6 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures

8.2  Using a socket to install valve stem

seal

7.19  Measuring valve spring free length

7.15  Grinding-in a valve seat

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

7 Remove the sump and unbolt the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe from the oil rail. Discard
the sealing ring (see illustration).
8 Unscrew the two retaining nuts and remove
the oil rail (see illustration).
9 Using a hammer and centre punch, paint or
similar, mark each connecting rod big-end
bearing cap with its respective cylinder
number on the flat, machined surface
provided. If the engine has been dismantled
before, note carefully any identifying marks
made previously (see illustration). Note that
No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of the
engine.
10 Unscrew and remove the big-end bearing
cap bolts and withdraw the cap, complete
with bearing shell, from the connecting rod. If
only the bearing shells are being attended to,

Engine removal and general overhaul procedures  2B•7

9.7  Removing oil pump pick-up/strainer

pipe from oil rail - renew O-ring (arrowed)

9.6b  Engine bottom end components

1 Oil pump
2 Gasket
3 Bolt
4 Bolt
5 Oil seal
6 Engine oil level dipstick
7 Dipstick tube
8 Bolt
9 Bolt

10 Gasket
11 Coolant pump
12 O-ring
13 Pillar bolt
14 Bolt
15 Dowel pin
16 O-ring
17 Thermostat housing
18 Gasket
19 Thermostat
20 Thermostat housing
21 Bolt
22 Coolant hose
23 Hose clip
24 Coolant rail
25 Screw
26 Cooling system bleed

screw

27 Sealing washer
28 Liner
29 O-rings
30 Cylinder block/crankcase
31 Dowel
32 Top compression ring
33 Second compression 

ring

34 Oil control ring
35 Piston
36 Gudgeon pin *
37 Connecting rod
38 Big-end bearing shell
39 Big-end bearing cap
40 Big-end bearing cap bolt
41 Crankshaft
42 Crankshaft thrustwasher
43 Crankshaft main bearing

shell

44 Dowel
45 Oil seal
46 Flywheel (with reluctor

ring)

47 Flywheel bolt
48 Main bearing ladder *
49 Bolt
50 Dowel

51 Stud
52 Oil rail
53 Bolt
54 Nut
55 O-ring
56 Oil pump pick-up/

strainer pipe

57 Bolt
58 Sump
59 Gasket
60 Bolt
61 Engine oil drain plug
62 Sealing washer
63 Oil filter
64 Oil filter adaptor
65 Bolt
66 Gasket
67 Oil pressure switch
68 Blanking plate -

carburettor engines

69 Screw

* Note: Main bearing ladder is
supplied only with cylinder
block/crankcase assembly.
Gudgeon pin is supplied only
with piston assembly

9.8  Removing oil rail to reach big-end

bearings

9.9  Mark big-end bearing caps before

removal - No 4 cylinder cap shown

2B

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

push the connecting rod up and off the
crankpin, ensuring that the connecting rod
big-ends do not mark the cylinder bore walls,
then remove the upper bearing shell. Keep the
cap, bolts and (if they are to be refitted) the
bearing shells together in their correct
sequence.
11 With Nos 2 and 3 cylinder big-ends
disconnected, repeat the procedure
(exercising great care to prevent damage to
any of the components) to remove Nos 1 and
4 cylinder bearing caps.
12 Remove the ridge of carbon from the top
of each cylinder bore. Push each
piston/connecting rod assembly up and
remove it from the top of the bore, and ensure
that the connecting rod big-ends do not mark
the cylinder bore walls. 
13 Note that the number stamped by you on
each bearing cap should match the cylinder
number stamped on the front (alternator
bracket side) of each connecting rod. If any
connecting rod number does not match its
correct cylinder, mark or label it immediately
so that each piston/connecting rod assembly
can be refitted to its original bore.

Removal - alternative methods

14 If the engine is being completely
dismantled and the cylinder head has been
removed, either unbolt the main bearing
ladder so that the crankshaft can be rotated
with care, or remove the crankshaft
completely and then remove the connecting
rods and pistons.

Cylinder head bolts - condition
check

15 Check the condition of the cylinder head

bolts and particularly their threads whenever
they are removed. If the cylinder head only is
removed, check the bolts as described in 
Part A of this Chapter. If the cylinder 
head and the oil rail are removed, check as
follows.
16 Keeping all the bolts in their correct fitted
order, wash them and wipe dry, then check
each for any sign of visible wear or damage.
Renew any bolt if necessary. Lightly oil the
threads of each bolt, carefully enter it into the
original hole and screw it in, by hand only until
finger-tight. If the full length of thread is
engaged, the bolt may be re-used. If the 
full length of thread is not engaged, measure
the distance from the oil rail gasket surface to
under the bolt head (see illustration).
17 If the distance measured is less than 378
mm, then the bolt may be re-used. If the
distance measured is more than 378 mm, the
bolt must be renewed. Considering the task
these bolts perform and the pressures they
must withstand, owners should consider
renewing all the bolts as a matched set if
more than one of the originals fail inspection
or are close to the limit set.
18 Note that if any of the cylinder head bolt
threads in the oil rail are found to be
damaged, then the oil rail must be renewed.
Thread inserts are not an acceptable repair in
this instance.

10 Crankshaft - removal

4

Note: The following procedure assumes that
the crankshaft alone is being removed and
therefore uses a slightly different sequence of
operations to that given in Section 9.
Depending on the reason for dismantling,
either sequence may be adapted as
necessary. If the crankshaft endfloat is to be
checked, this must be done when the
crankshaft is free to move. If a dial gauge is to
be used, check after paragraph 1, but if feeler
gauges are to be used, check after para-
graph 9.

1 Remove the timing belt, sprocket(s) 
and tensioner, and the timing belt inner 
cover.
2 Slacken and remove the two dipstick tube
retaining bolts and remove it from the cylinder
block/crankcase.
3 Remove the cylinder head. The crankshaft
cannot now be rotated.
4 Remove the oil pump.
5 Remove the crankshaft left-hand oil seal.
6 Remove the sump and unbolt the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe from the oil rail. Discard
the sealing ring.
7 Unscrew the two retaining nuts and remove
the oil rail.
8 Working in the sequence shown (see
illustration), progressively unscrew the main
bearing ladder retaining bolts by a turn at a
time, then withdraw the ladder. Note the two
locating dowels and the main bearing shells,
which should be removed from the ladder and
stored in their correct fitted order (see
illustration).
9 Mark the big-end bearing caps, then
unscrew and remove the big-end bearing cap
bolts and withdraw the cap, complete with the
lower bearing shell, from each of the four
connecting rods (see illustration). Push 
the connecting rods up and off their
crankpins, then remove the upper bearing
shell. Keep the cap, bolts and (if they are to be
refitted) the bearing shells together in their
correct sequence.

2B•8 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures

10.9  Removing No 1 cylinder big-end

bearing cap and lower bearing shell

10.8b  Removing main bearing ladder (two

locating dowels arrowed)

10.8a  Crankshaft main bearing ladder bolt

slackening sequence

A

Bolts hidden in ladder flanges

B

Location of single longer bolt

9.16  Checking length of cylinder head

bolts

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Fit the bearing cap, shells
and bolts to each removed
piston/connecting rod
assembly, so that they are

all kept together as a
matched set.