Peugeot 405. Manual - part 41

5 Park the vehicle on level ground, switch off
the engine and select first or reverse gear, then
chock the wheels and release the handbrake.
6 Check that all pipes and hoses are secure,
unions tight and bleed screws closed. Clean
any dirt from around the bleed screws.
7 Unscrew the master cylinder reservoir cap,
and top the master cylinder reservoir up to the
“MAX” level line; refit the cap loosely, and
remember to maintain the fluid level at least
above the “MIN” level line throughout the
procedure, or there is a risk of further air
entering the system.
8 There are a number of one-man, do-it-yourself
brake bleeding kits currently available from 
motor accessory shops. It is recommended that
one of these kits is used whenever possible, 
as they greatly simplify the bleeding operation,
and also reduce the risk of expelled air and 
fluid being drawn back into the system. If such 
a kit is not available, the basic (two-man) 
method must be used, which is described in
detail below.
9 If a kit is to be used, prepare the vehicle as
described previously, and follow the kit
manufacturer’s instructions, as the procedure
may vary slightly according to the type being
used; generally, they are as outlined below in
the relevant sub-section.
10 Whichever method is used, the same
sequence must be followed to ensure the
removal of all air from the system.

Bleeding sequence

Conventional braking system

a) Right-hand rear wheel.
b) Left-hand front wheel.
c) Left-hand rear wheel.
d) Right-hand front wheel.

Bendix “additional” ABS

Note: Before carrying out any bleeding,
switch off the ignition, and disconnect the 3-
pin brown wiring connector from the hydraulic
modulator assembly (see illustration).

a) Rear brake furthest from master cylinder.
b) Rear brake nearest master cylinder.
c) Front brake furthest from master cylinder.

d) Front brake nearest master cylinder.
e) Hydraulic modulator (see illustration).

Bosch “additional” ABS

Note: Before carrying out any bleeding,
switch off the ignition, and disconnect the 4-
pin black wiring connector from the hydraulic
modulator assembly.

a) Left-hand front wheel.
b) Right-hand front wheel.
c) Left-hand rear wheel.
d) Right-hand rear wheel.

Note: If difficulty is experienced in bleeding
the hydraulic circuit on models with Bosch
“additional” ABS, using the above sequence,
try bleeding the complete system working in
the following order:

a) Right-hand rear brake.
b) Left-hand rear brake.
c) Left-hand front brake.
d) Right-hand front brake.

Bleeding - 
basic (two-man) method

11 Collect a clean glass jar, a suitable length
of plastic or rubber tubing which is a tight fit
over the bleed screw, and a ring spanner to fit
the screw. The help of an assistant will also be
required.
12 Remove the dust cap from the first screw
in the sequence (see illustrations). Fit the
spanner and tube to the screw, place the

other end of the tube in the jar, and pour in
sufficient fluid to cover the end of the tube.
13 Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir
fluid level is maintained at least above the
“MIN” level line throughout the procedure.
14 Have the assistant fully depress the brake
pedal several times to build up pressure, then
maintain it on the final downstroke.
15 While pedal pressure is maintained,
unscrew the bleed screw (approximately one
turn) and allow the compressed fluid and air to
flow into the jar. The assistant should maintain
pedal pressure, following it down to the floor if
necessary, and should not release it until
instructed to do so. When the flow stops,
tighten the bleed screw again, have the
assistant release the pedal slowly, and
recheck the reservoir fluid level.
16 Repeat the steps given in paragraphs 14
and 15 until the fluid emerging from the bleed
screw is free from air bubbles. If the master
cylinder has been drained and refilled, and air
is being bled from the first screw in the
sequence, allow approximately five seconds
between cycles for the master cylinder
passages to refill.
17 When no more air bubbles appear, tighten
the bleed screw securely, remove the tube
and spanner, and refit the dust cap. Do not
overtighten the bleed screw.
18 Repeat the procedure on the remaining
screws in the sequence, until all air is
removed from the system and the brake pedal
feels firm again.

Bleeding - 
using a one-way valve kit

19 As their name implies, these kits consist
of a length of tubing with a one-way valve
fitted, to prevent expelled air and fluid being
drawn back into the system; some kits include
a translucent container, which can be
positioned so that the air bubbles can be
more easily seen flowing from the end of the
tube.
20 The kit is connected to the bleed screw,
which is then opened. The user returns to the
driver’s seat, depresses the brake pedal with
a smooth, steady stroke, and slowly releases
it; this is repeated until the expelled fluid is
clear of air bubbles (see illustration).
21

Note that these kits simplify work so

Braking system  9•3

2.12a  Bleed nipple (arrowed) on 

front disc caliper

2.12b  Bleed nipple (arrowed) on rear

wheel cylinder

2.10b  Bleed the hydraulic modulator using

the bleed screws (1) first, and (2) second -

Bendix “additional” ABS

2.10a  Disconnect the 3-pin brown wiring

connector before bleeding the Bendix

“additional” ABS

9

much that it is easy to forget the master
cylinder reservoir fluid level; ensure that this is
maintained at least above the “MIN” level line
at all times.

Bleeding - 
using a pressure-bleeding kit

22 These kits are usually operated by the
reservoir of pressurised air contained in the
spare tyre. However, note that it will probably
be necessary to reduce the pressure to a
lower level than normal; refer to the
instructions supplied with the kit.
23 By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filled
container to the master cylinder reservoir,
bleeding can be carried out simply by opening
each screw in turn (in the specified sequence),
and allowing the fluid to flow out until no more
air bubbles can be seen in the expelled fluid.
24 This method has the advantage that the
large reservoir of fluid provides an additional
safeguard against air being drawn into the
system during bleeding.
25 Pressure-bleeding is particularly effective
when bleeding “difficult” systems, or when
bleeding the complete system at the time of
routine fluid renewal.

All methods

26 When bleeding is complete, and firm
pedal feel is restored, wash off any spilt fluid,
tighten the bleed screws securely, and refit
their dust caps.
27 Check the hydraulic fluid level in the
master cylinder reservoir, and top-up if
necessary (Chapter 1).
28 Discard any hydraulic fluid that has been
bled from the system; it will not be fit for re-
use.
29 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If it
feels at all spongy, air must still be present in
the system, and further bleeding is required.
Failure to bleed satisfactorily after a
reasonable repetition of the bleeding
procedure may be due to worn master
cylinder seals.
30 On models with ABS, reconnect the wiring
connector to the hydraulic modulator
assembly.

3

Hydraulic pipes and hoses -
renewal

4

Note: Before starting work, refer to the note at
the beginning of Section 2 concerning the
dangers of hydraulic fluid.
1 If any pipe or hose is to be renewed,
minimise fluid loss by first removing the
master cylinder reservoir cap, then tightening
it down onto a piece of polythene to obtain an
airtight seal. Alternatively, flexible hoses can
be sealed, if required, using a proprietary
brake hose clamp; metal brake pipe unions
can be plugged (if care is taken not to allow
dirt into the system) or capped immediately
they are disconnected. Place a wad of rag
under any union that is to be disconnected, to
catch any spilt fluid.
2 If a flexible hose is to be disconnected,
unscrew the brake pipe union nut before
removing the spring clip which secures the
hose to its mounting bracket (see
illustration).
3 To unscrew the union nuts, it is preferable
to obtain a brake pipe spanner of the correct
size; these are available from most large
motor accessory shops. Failing this, a close-
fitting open-ended spanner will be required,
though if the nuts are tight or corroded, their
flats may be rounded-off if the spanner slips.
In such a case, a self-locking wrench is often
the only way to unscrew a stubborn union, but
it follows that the pipe and the damaged nuts
must be renewed on reassembly. Always
clean a union and surrounding area before
disconnecting it. If disconnecting a
component with more than one union, make a
careful note of the connections before
disturbing any of them.
4 If a brake pipe is to be renewed, it can be
obtained, cut to length and with the union
nuts and end flares in place, from Peugeot
dealers. All that is then necessary is to bend it
to shape, following the line of the original,
before fitting it to the car. Alternatively, most
motor accessory shops can make up brake
pipes from kits, but this requires very careful
measurement of the original, to ensure that
the replacement is of the correct length. The
safest answer is usually to take the original to
the shop as a pattern.

5 On refitting, do not overtighten the union
nuts. It is not necessary to exercise brute
force to obtain a sound joint.
6 Ensure that the pipes and hoses are
correctly routed, with no kinks, and that they
are secured in the clips or brackets provided.
After fitting, remove the polythene from the
reservoir, and bleed the hydraulic system as
described in Section 2. Wash off any spilt
fluid, and check carefully for fluid leaks.

4

Front brake pads - renewal

2

1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove
the front roadwheels.
2 Trace the brake pad wear sensor wiring
back from the pads, and disconnect it from
the wiring connector (see illustration). Note
the routing of the wiring, and free it from any
relevant retaining clips.
3 Push the piston into its bore by pulling the
caliper outwards.
4 There are two different types of front brake
caliper fitted to the models covered in this
manual as follows.

a) Models with solid front discs - 

Bendix calipers.

b) Models with ventilated front discs -

Girling calipers.

9•4 Braking system

4.2  Disconnecting the pad wear sensor

wiring connector

3.2  Flexible hose-to-rigid pipe union at

front wheel arch

2.20  Using a one-man brake bleeding kit

on a front caliper

Warning: Renew both sets of
front brake pads at the same
time - never renew the pads on
only one wheel, as uneven

braking may result. Note that the dust
created by wear of the pads may contain
asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never
blow it out with compressed air, and don’t
inhale any of it. An approved filtering
mask should be worn when working on
the brakes. DO NOT use petrol or
petroleum-based solvents to clean brake
parts; use brake cleaner or methylated
spirit only.

Bendix caliper

Note: A new pad retaining plate spring clip
should be used on refitting.
5 Using pliers, extract the small spring clip
from the pad retaining plate, and then slide
the plate out of the caliper (see illustrations).
6 Withdraw the pads from the caliper, then
make a note of the correct fitted position of
each anti-rattle spring, and remove the spring
from each pad (see illustration).
7 First measure the thickness of each brake
pad’s friction material  (see illustration). If
either pad is worn at any point to the specified
minimum thickness or less, all four pads must
be renewed. Also, the pads should be renewed
if any are fouled with oil or grease; as there is
no satisfactory way of degreasing friction
material, once contaminated. If any of the
brake pads are worn unevenly, or are fouled
with oil or grease, trace and rectify the cause
before reassembly. New brake pads and spring
kits are available from Peugeot dealers.
8 If the brake pads are still serviceable,
carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire
brush or similar, paying particular attention to
the sides and back of the metal backing. Clean
out the grooves in the friction material, and
pick out any large embedded particles of dirt
or debris. Carefully clean the pad locations in
the caliper body/mounting bracket.
9 Prior to fitting the pads, check that the
guide pins are free to slide easily in the caliper
body/mounting bracket, and check that the
rubber guide pin gaiters are undamaged.
Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper and
piston, but do not inhale it, as it is injurious to

health. Inspect the dust seal around the piston
for damage, and the piston for evidence of
fluid leaks, corrosion or damage. If attention
to any of these components is necessary,
refer to Section 10.
10 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the
caliper piston must be pushed back into the
cylinder to make room for them. Either use a
G-clamp or similar tool, or use suitable pieces
of wood as levers. Provided that the master
cylinder reservoir has not been overfilled with
hydraulic fluid, there should be no spillage,
but keep a careful watch on the fluid level
while retracting the piston. If the fluid level
rises above the “MAX” level line at any time,
the surplus should be siphoned off or ejected
via a plastic tube connected to the bleed
screw (see Section 2). Note: Do not syphon
the fluid by mouth, as it is poisonous; use a
syringe or an old poultry baster.
11 Fit the anti-rattle springs to the pads, so
that when the pads are installed in the caliper,
the spring end will be located at the opposite
end of the pad in relation to the pad retaining
plate.
12 Locate the pads in the caliper, ensuring
that the friction material of each pad is against
the brake disc, and check that the anti-rattle
spring ends are at the opposite end of the pad
to which the retaining plate is to be inserted.
Note that if the pads are installed correctly,
looking at the pads from the front of the
vehicle, the innermost pad groove must be
higher than the outer pad groove. Ensure that
the pads are fitted correctly before
proceeding 

(see illustrations).

13 Slide the retaining plate into place, and
install the new small spring clip at its inner
end. It may be necessary to file an entry
chamfer on the edge of the retaining plate, to
enable it to be fitted without difficulty.
14 Reconnect the brake pad wear sensor
wiring connectors, ensuring that the outer
wire is correctly routed through the anti-rattle
spring loops, and that both wires pass
through the loop of the bleed screw cap.
15 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until
the pads are pressed into firm contact with
the brake disc, and normal (non-assisted)
pedal pressure is restored.
16 Repeat the above procedure on the
remaining front brake caliper.

Braking system  9•5

4.6  Withdrawing the outer brake pad -

Bendix caliper

4.12b  Correct fitting of brake pads -

Bendix caliper

4.12a  Correct location of the anti-rattle

springs on Bendix brake pads

4.7  Measuring brake pad friction material

thickness

4.5b  . . . then slide the pad retaining plate

from the caliper - Bendix caliper

4.5a  Extract the spring clip (arrowed) . . .

9

B  Grooves
D  Pad retaining plate spring clip
V  Bleed screw

17 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the
vehicle to the ground and tighten the
roadwheel bolts to the specified torque
setting.
18 Check the hydraulic fluid level as
described in “Weekly Checks”.

Girling caliper

Note: A new lower guide pin bolt must be
used on refitting.
19 Where applicable, prise off the dust cover,
then slacken and remove the lower caliper
guide pin bolt, using a slim open-ended
spanner to prevent the guide pin itself from
rotating (see illustration). Discard the guide
pin bolt - a new bolt must be used on refitting.
20 With the lower guide pin bolt removed,
pivot the caliper upwards, away from the
brake pads and mounting bracket, taking care
not to strain the flexible brake hose (see
illustration).
21 Withdraw the two brake pads from the
caliper mounting bracket, and examine them
as described above in paragraphs 7 to 10.
22 Apply a little brake grease to the rear of
the pads, then Install the pads in the caliper
mounting bracket, ensuring that the friction
material of each pad is against the brake disc
(see illustration).
23 Position the caliper over the pads, and
pass the pad warning sensor wiring through
the caliper aperture and underneath the
retaining clip (see illustration). If the threads
of the new guide pin bolt are not already pre-

coated with locking compound, apply a
suitable thread-locking compound to them.
Pivot the caliper into position, then install the
guide pin bolt, tightening to the specified
torque setting while retaining the guide pin
with an open-ended spanner. Where
applicable, refit the dust cover to the guide
pin.
24 Reconnect the brake pad wear sensor
wiring connector, ensuring that the wiring is
correctly routed through the loop of the
caliper bleed screw cap.
25 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly, until
the pads are pressed into firm contact with
the brake disc, and normal (non-assisted)
pedal pressure is restored.
26 Repeat the procedure on the remaining
front brake caliper.
27 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the
vehicle to the ground and tighten the
roadwheel bolts to the specified torque
setting.
28 Check the hydraulic fluid level as
described in Chapter 1.

All calipers

29 New pads will not give full braking
efficiency until they have bedded in. Be
prepared for this, and avoid hard braking as
far as possible for the first hundred miles or so
after pad renewal.

5

Rear brake pads - renewal

2

Note: A new upper caliper guide pin bolt must
be used on refitting.
1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support securely on
axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”). Remove the rear roadwheels.
2 Disconnect the handbrake cable end from
the operating lever on the caliper.
3 Where applicable, prise off the dust cover,
then slacken and remove the upper caliper
guide pin bolt, using a slim open-ended
spanner to prevent the guide pin itself from
rotating. Discard the guide pin bolt - a new
bolt must be used on refitting.
4 With the upper guide pin bolt removed,
pivot the caliper downwards, away from the
brake pads and mounting bracket, taking care
not to strain the flexible brake hose.
5 Withdraw the brake pads from the caliper
mounting bracket.
6 First measure the thickness of each brake
pad’s friction material. If either pad is worn at
any point to the specified minimum thickness
or less, all four pads must be renewed. Also,
the pads should be renewed if any are fouled
with oil or grease; there is no satisfactory way
of degreasing friction material, once
contaminated. If any of the brake pads are
worn unevenly, or are fouled with oil or
grease, trace and rectify the cause before
reassembly. New brake pads are available
from Peugeot dealers.
7 If the brake pads are still serviceable,
carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire
brush or similar, paying particular attention to
the sides and back of the metal backing. Pick
out any large embedded particles of dirt or
debris from the friction material. Carefully
clean the pad locations in the caliper
body/mounting bracket.
8 Prior to fitting the pads, check that the
guide pins are free to slide easily in the caliper
body/mounting bracket, and check that the
rubber guide pin gaiters are undamaged.
Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper and
piston, but do not inhale it, as it is injurious to
health. Inspect the dust seal around the piston
for damage, and the piston for evidence of

9•6 Braking system

4.19  Hold the pin guide pin with an open-

ended spanner while slackening the guide

pin bolt - Girling caliper

4.22  Ensure that the brake pads are fitted

the correct way around, with friction

material facing the disc . . .

4.23  . . . then refit the caliper, feeding the

pad wiring through the caliper aperture

4.20  Pivot the caliper upwards away from

the brake pads - Girling caliper

Warning: Renew both sets of
rear brake pads at the same
time - never renew the pads on
only one wheel, as uneven

braking may result. Note that the dust
created by wear of the pads may contain
asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never
blow it out with compressed air, and don’t
inhale any of it. An approved filtering
mask should be worn when working on
the brakes. DO NOT use petrol or
petroleum-based solvents to clean brake
parts; use brake cleaner or methylated
spirit only.